Digmixfill

Do you mean cut the lower half of the groove side off? I can't quite see how removing half of the tongue helps in lifting the board. I'm thinking that after the plaster board is on the ceiling I'm bound to realise I need to route something else under the floor. A hatch in each room should allow me to fish things through.

I'm wanting to put an access hatch/opening in my P5 flooring in each room. As each board is going to be glued and screwed I'm wondering how best to implement the hatch. Do I cut out the hole before fitting, or omit some glue and cut a piece out later?

I'm measuring up to fit the first of my P5 flooring. The room length is 4250mm, so 50mm larger than 7 boards. 25mm gap at either end and no slicing boards in half. What is the maximum expansion gap you would accept before you decide to start slicing boards?

I'm not stressing about this. I've squared them up, sorted for best match to length required and they're in place. The individual chord lengths were within the +/- 1mm length, but top and bottom chord on some were offset by > 5mm. Do you think it unreasonable for me to expect a joist to have at least on square end?

The strongback isn't nailed to anything at the moment. I'm running noggings wall to wall at 1/3rd span. Then I'll add the end chord restraints with zclips. After that i'm going to place noggings in the lower chords to fix any joist twist. Finally I'll nail the strongback in place. Overkill I know. Caberdek, screw and glue after that. Yes Mitek. Long before I ordered the posis I asked Mitek what their tolerances were. An engineer replied back to say +/- 1mm for length. Most of the posis here arrived as parallelograms, way out of tolerance. At the masonry end they are fixed with Simpson FMS straps, so even if Mitek offered to replace them all it would be a pain to remove them.

Here are a few examples of what I consider imperfections. The camera doesn't show them to be as stark as the eye.

I sent over pictures and simply asked if the fixings were ok. His reply was that it's really difficult to get things perfect on their machine. My understanding there was that he thought they weren't perfect. Here are pictures showing the upward bow in joist 3. Joist 2 in these pictures is the corkscrew. I've numbered the joists in the pictures to indicate when I switched direction. Some pictures of the fixings shortly.

Slightly more reassuring to hear that it's not just my set of posis that are cattywompous. Is there a general rule of thumb for nogging placement when trying to straighten joists out? Start at either side of the room and work in, start in the centre and work out, etc? Some of the fixings on my posis where not as affixed as I expected. When I questioned them with the maker, their production manager said they were ok and that it's really difficult to get things perfect on their machine. ?

Everything has been stored inside, as instructed with the paperwork that came with the posis. They were trimmed, dropped in the hangers and left for a little while. I didn't check the second room to see if they are behaving the same. I'll check tomorrow and take some pictures if I remember.

I have had mine sat loose in their hangers for a little while. This evening I've been measuring and cutting noggings for under the restraint straps and to my surprise the joists are anything but straight. I'd expect this kind of mayhem from timber joists, but engineered? One of the joists is trying for a corkscrew. Another is bowing upwards in the centre by a few mm. I don't think any of them have parallel sides (mostly this is because of lazy construction by the supplier) Those of you who have fitted posi-joists, how have you found them when in situ? Wonderfully straight and true, or all over the shop?

After a little UPS snafu the saw and stand have arrived. The saw is a rebadged Scheppach HM80MP. Comes with a 40 TPI multi material blade installed. Out of the box the bevel adjust lock stops required adjustment and the laser alignment required adjusting. The dual slides for the saw feel nice and smooth, no free play in them. I've done a few test cuts and it seems good enough for what I need it to do.

I've taken a punt on the Aldi one. I'll post observations when/if it arrives.

If anyone is looking for a cheap telescoping chop saw Aldi have one in their special buys section. Features Integrated laser beam for precision Ideal for cutting wood-derived products Quick lock system 2 Speeds max. 3200rpm/5000rpm Highest position blade diameter: 21.6cm Mitre capacity: 45° left - 45° right Cross cut at 90°: 340 x 65mm Mitre cut at 45°: 240 x 65mm Compound cut at 45°: 240 x 38mm Max. speed in rpm (2 speeds): 3200rpm / 5000 rpm min-1 Bevel Type: 45° left / 0 here

This is obviously what sets the amateur and the professional walk on glazing installer apart.

But I'm not ready to measure up for that yet!

I'm already above DPM all around and lower slab is in. Have to make the best of what I have. With my very limited experience of them I concur. During the warmer months I find that I have to dampen the block surface I'm laying on before mortar gets near them.

The longest wall is 4.4m. I wouldn't have expected to need a movement joint in that. I thought they were only required at >= 6m ? I am the bricklayer There are some pictures of my finest amateur work in the thread here You can see in the pictures there that some of the blocks are very wet, much darker than the dry blocks. If it is the blocks shrinking as they dry would the lime cause the cracking to be in the perps and not the blocks?

I've already bought all the blocks I think I'll need - celcon standards. Committed. I'm hoping to have wet plaster when it's all done, if not I'll parge. Hopefully the current cracks will not be an issue for me.

Mortar was the same 5:1 for all walls. Only the wet blocks have cracked so far. I'm going to keep an eye on the rest to see if that stays the case. I'm trying to move blocks indoors in rotating stacks to dry them before using them. It's only a matter of time before I forget to replenish a stack and have to use moist blocks.

I've got a few cracks in the celcons here. The walls that where put up when the blocks were wet have cracks, the walls built with blocks that were fully dry are OK. It appears as though they shrink as they dry out.

Unless I'm looking to modify something my automotive engineering is simplified to broken=order parts and fix. I have enough time vampires to juggle already

Don't let on where it is or it will be gone!

Or my lax cleaning after getting it dirty? I'm happy with the 20 years of ownership so far, and happy to keep it for as long as I can.

I'm in the midlands, but have dunked my car in many counties and two continents. I think it's the abrasive properties of the mud and stuff that gets trapped in or near the hubs that eventually breaks the seal on a bearing. The next dunking puts the abrasive paste into the bearing itself and then it's just a matter of time before they grumble to let you know they need replacing.

I'm assuming your 170K is all on tarmac? My discovery isn't a Chelsea tractor that's polished and clean. Try driving your current car through deep muddy water for a while, or axle deep mud and see how your wheel bearings and brakes hold up