JackofAll

That's what we are doing, 49 quid a wk for a 40ft container in a secure compound. Have most of our old house contents in it along with some materials for the build.

Surely the same could be said for any twin leaf wall, be it 100mm or 300mm cavity as the outer leaf will always be exposed ambient temp from the inside. Is the crack through the block or in the plaster?

Saw a new build bungalow last weekend not unlike what we will be building. Noticed the vents for the MHRV on the same aspect of the roof and looked quite close. Got me thinking about our own, I have heard that rising heat from slates this time of year will increase the internal temp, sounds plausible, is it true? Also is it wise to place both inlet and exhaust vents on the same aspect of the roof. If we can get the unit into the plant room we could potentially put in a false ceiling and run the vents out the wall, would this be a better solution than placing the unit in the attic?

@Iceverge just noticed the ply box header does not span the full distance of the cavity,cavider why? Also am I correct in saying that there's a gap between the stone bed connector and the face of the window? Unsure why the didn't use joint sealing tape in same gap.

Thanks @ Iceverge obviously never thought of compacfoam. Will check out price difference between nylon/compacfoam.Using internorm KF410 upvc aluclad.

I am thinking of fixing the windows to the boxes with the outer face slightly proud of the box butting up to the inner face of the outer leaf,(a strip of compriband foam between the two) hence the need for a bracket of some description to take the weight. Or is this a bad idea?

@SteamyTea is this what you mean?

Good Question, didn't feel the need to draw, just drawing what I thought steamy meant.

Sorry for crude drawing, but is this correct

Re. metal bracket, that's why I was suggesting a plastic one, nylon could also do but would the condensation still be an issue?

Was thinking about fixing a plastic 50x50x6mm angle bracket to the inner side of the outer leaf to support the window boxes. I know @Iceverge cantileverd his osb "box" but 300mm is a lot(in our case). Anyone with a 300mm cavity done this or suggest something better.

plan on making up something like this, with mortar near flush to outside of external leaf and 12-15mm spacer on inside face of same block then turn it round for the inner leaf. You'll have consistent beds and no spots in cavity

Just over 1100euro was what we're quoted for ours from them

Have never seen them fitted to any houses that I've watched being built here on this side of the pond, be it one off or housing estates, well in our area that is. Laziness? lack of knowledge? Are they essential?

Am due to use it whenever we get that far, quite expensive, the sheets in Germany appear to be far bigger than what's on sale here in Ireland. Can't seem to get an online price in Germany either. Not much help other than that.

Started buying last October and would buy all they had, when it came back in would do the same. Bought last lot in January before it went back up. Think it was old stock as there are 8 batts to a pack think the newer packs may have 12. Was going to go the 32 route with 250mm cavity but Iceverge here put the 37 idea in my head bigger cavity but same performance at cheaper price.

Going with 300mm full fill knauf dritherm 37. Got 130 packs for 17euro a pop from BnQ when on offer normally 53 euro a pack.

Great to see some pics, think you were right re the church and the weather, you were blessed. Thanks for heads up on the upstand, messy business.

Could it be to allow water run off away from the structure and not under it? Hope you're taking lots of pics, be nice to see

Hooks it will be, haven't really looked at many options re. hip tiles but the couple I did see looked big, will see if there are some low profile ones, think the miter looks sleaker in comparison to the ones I saw.

Probably a silly question, why would hook fixing be good?

Quite like the idea of mitered slate(see pic below) for the hips but wondering of any potential problems with leaks in comparison to finishing with a ridge slate over the top which is what seems to be the norm around here. Anyone go with this or can advise on potential issues.

Take it that it's a 2 storey with hollowcore slabs you are going with judging by the detail. Could probably hold up a multistorey carpark😀

Just curious, if you are going with a Kore raft what do you need the blocks for?