JackofAll

So by going up to 90mm there is no need to double up on the runs that otherwise require it using 75mm?

Be alot easier than routing under the slab, thanks for that @Nickfromwales

Probably a stupid question. Would you need to put airtightness tape around the entrance/exit holes? Thought drilling holes in walls is a big no no in low energy houses.

Would I be better off going for a raised heel truss roof rather than a standard double W truss in terms detailing insulation at eaves. Am thinking that it would be alot easier get 400mm of mineral wool to marry up to cavity insulation with heel truss than the other way also anyone use a raised heel on a hip roof?

Thinking out loud here and stating the obvious, if positioning of all waste pipes are spot on there would be no need for stud walls or boxing out.

@Shaun McD re. The radon barrier, I asked this question a couple of weeks back on here and got no reply AFAIK, have seen it done both ways but the engineer specd it that way for us, forgot to ask him since, will fire on a mail tomorrow.

@Nickfromwales so if using a reducer like in the pic the 110mm flange sits flush to ffl?

@Nickfromwales Why is that may I ask? does that mean a 4inch pipe reduced down for every sink, shower, bidet etc.

Apologies, have the images in wrong order, but you get the idea.

@Shaun McD FYI

Apologies, should have specified which pipes.

@jack the hot/cold feeds appeared to be in the same layer as the ufh pipes, thought that strange also the way they used the hot cutter definitely seems easier for hot/cold feeds rather that running ducting under the slab.

@TerryE @Nickfromwales not sure if how they lay the pipes in this clip is right but it sure does look easy.

Not sure if you saw the build your own home series on Rte recently but a lady from Cork, her partner and kid installed their's though they did have ground working crew in before. I recently got a quote from Kore and Castleforms with the latter being 2.5k more expensive. There are guys out there installing them. Circa 7k seems to be the going rate.

Hi Shaun, Midlands man here, we will also be going the pv route and as Conor mentioned the integrated panels are a great way of saving money on slates/tiles. I have asked a couple of sparks re. connecting up solar and both said they weren't certified for solar, didn't know it was a thing to be honest as they are after all electrical components. We are looking at 9kw array also, https://midsummer.ie/https://midsummer.ie/ this crowd see reasonable if getting the gear in yourself. Having spoke to a couple of solar installers they both tried to persuade me away from integrated panels with, " that's the old way of doing it and rail mounted are better". If you can get a spark who is happy to do it you'll be flying and saving a pretty sum.

This side of pond the going rate is 7k install(that includes fitting ufh pipes) every plumber I've asked is not willing to price labour only, they'll supply and fit. I can purchase all stuff up North including MHRV for same price(including exchange rate) as just ASHP, cylinder and uhf kit locally. @Conor be worth my while sourcing a plumber up your neck of the woods if they'd be willing to travel if your price is anything to go by.

Have seen(pictures mind)Radon barrier/DPM been laid under and also lapped up and over the outer ring beam of insulated raft foundations. From chatting to the guy who maybe potentially putting it in he said you can go either way. Engineer has speed up and over, I can see the advantage of laying under bottom layer of EPS and not up and over, how did you do yours?

Wow, alot louder than I thought, will check out the dB levels of various units before committing.

@Iceverge audible in comparison to what, thought the units were fairly quiet, as an aside we were going to put ours in attic but as it will be cold roof, decided to place in utility.

Do you mean away from the bedrooms

Still waiting on them to come back with quote, believe they are made here too.

@Iceverge what Mhrv system did you fit? Great idea re. Berlingo filters

Thanks Jack, several options there, will probably go with the cement board one and plaster over, due to planning requirements, I do fancy brick slips though, they'd look the job.

Expandable metal and plaster down? Hadn't thought about that to be honest.