JackofAll

Window is square and level, bare block outside, still to be plastered.

Forgot to mention they packed it up 12mm (2mm over max)

Windows arrived on site this morning, they fitted first one, before they did one of the guys mentioned that 10mm was max they could pack. So window goes in and theres a 15mm gap at head on one side 6mm on other. I forgot to drop the outside lintel 20mm(stupid I know) when blocking, anyhow, I know the little isn't 9mm off level as I checked. Should I accept this considering they did all the measurements for windows. The guys on site are suggesting cement board to pack.

Apologies @JohnMo, I copied and pasted your question in your first post re. Min system stated volume. I checked the data sheet for the unit and didn't see. Will look more into it.

Am getting Quite vent terminals with the Kit from BPC, anyone know how they compare to those Lindab ones @Adsibob mentioned

@JohnMo most likely single zone, 14 ports consisting of 773m of UFH pipe. Unit approx 4m if placing off exterior wall or 8m if we place it where she wants it. Can you provide the minimum stated system volume required for ASHP? Had a look at the spec sheet for unit and cannot see it. The cylinder is 2.9m2 coil. Looked at a mitsubishi ecodan and was informed we would need a hydrobox due to installing a 3rd party tank and it was 2/3 the price of the monobloc unit hence question if panasonic would require same.

Can someone explain to me what we require to set up ASHP system. So getting 9KW monobloc HP and tank for DHW, as it's a different brand do we need an something to communicate between the two or is the controller in the monobloc unit. Do we need an a buffer tank for UFH?

Windows going in shortly so need to figure out best and possibly easiest solution to insulating above the windows i.e. underside of dpc. Will be smart plying out the cavity(300mm) and there is a 150mm high gap on internal wall side down to 50mm on external wall side, so am thinking of getting beads blown in after windows are fitted and ply in place. Bit of a faf cutting Dritherm and trying to keep it in place before ply goes on, any suggestions?

Diy, have taped a 30mm block to a 1800mm level. Treatment plants are way more expensive than the septic and less to go wrong with septic. The perc area is just 5/6 channels with 20mm stone at a depth of 450mm (I think) and already have the stone. Engineer has soakaway's on drawing but could ask him to change, save alot of hassle.

Access junction/Access chamber, we just call em AJ's round this neck of the woods. Percolation test(new build) deemed a septic with Percolation area as suitable for the ground conditions. Haven't installed it yet, my thinking was to get the pipes in first and connect last to the septic. So option 1 it is then, thanks @saveasteading.

Hi all, All the waste pipes at back of house come out at same level from slab. Engineer specced 1/60fall back to septic. Should I put AJ's at every outlet pipe and then run onto a single pipe(with a couple of AJ's)heading to septic or run all outlet pipes to a single pipe with AJ's ( at each junction)then on to septic? See crude drawing.

I was shown a picture of a window yesterday from a fb group. On the outside of the glazing there was tracking or streak marks running the whole way down the pane. Didn't know this was a "thing" but there were several other posters who have encountered the same occurrence. Couple of the folks maintain this is lime burn(moisture running down before plaster has set), as we are going down the wet dash route (including lime) I got to thinking, if the mix contacts the window frame (alu clad) is there a chance of reaction? Also would I be better using white sand/cement rather than lime? One or two people had to replace glass as the marks would not come off, spending a good few quid on windows and this to happen would be a nightmare.

That's unfortunate, like the light fitting though.

Thanks Simon, looks good, appreciate the links. Nice solar array too.

@Bramco would you have any pictures, have a couple of vaulted sections and looking ideas, thanks.

Have kore slab, do I need to cut expansion gaps in every doorway if so how deep a cut?

Afaics It's still the main way of plastering block walls here.

Thanks @MikeGrahamT21, I take it sand/cement/skim are not airtight enough if you parge coated first

Thanks Mike, does that include the top row of blocks that meet the roof or does the air tight membrane at ceiling level take care of that?

Apart from floor to wall junction, what other junctions need painting, where internal walls meet external?

Anyone here who insulated at rafter level with blown cellouse not use a "flying batten"?used to avoid tenting of membrane on outside. Just wondering how important it is to use? Roofer has forgot to include it before slating.

Started fitting roll from the inside PITA anyhoo, am still thinking that as the roof is counter-battened, with breathable membrane is this necessary? Anyone?

Apologies, just seeing this now @Canski, 370euro

https://laydex.ie/products/building-products/loft-ladders/polar-extrem-extreme-insulation/minka-polar-extreme-loft-ladder-extension That's what i'm putting in 1200x600 though