JackofAll

300mm full fill knauf dritherm 37 all good,(so far) 🙂

Sorry for long winded post. So have been told that UF heating would need to be run for a couple of weeks to find out where the cracks will form (if any) in the floor before tiling can commence. We've no power connected and have no idea when it will be. Currently under pressure to get kitchen in as we've postponed it several times due to hold-up's at various stages of the project. Anyhoo, a few different tilers that we've spoken to recommend not covering whole floors with decoupling mat but only cover where cracks are in floor. But am thinking if we covered whole kitchen floor with decoupling mat it wont matter where cracks form(if any) as the membrane stops cracks cracking tiles? and kitchen can be fitted. Anyone forsee any issues?

Currently living in house, no electric and no water connected, we're a solid 19 degrees first thing every morning, If you built a passive house probably wouldn't be too concerned about UFH on either floor. just use slippers 🙂

Take it you didn't opt for the pre plumbed panasonic tank with built in buffer.

The autism in me is screaming at this oddity, but at least it's at the back of the house. If water gets in-between the sash and the frame where does it go to? There are slots in there but no apparent exit.

So outside of house now dashed and as per window fitters instructions I went about installing the weep slot covers. Thought they be the same colour as window but are black plastic, felt like weeping myself at the sight of em, anyhow I only noticed that one of the windows has no slots for the covers. Are these essential and any advice, thanks

Can only add that we didn't add a vcl on the inside of a full fill mineral wool cavity, also didn't ventilate the cavity.

Thanks @nod, smooth or rough side out?

Anyone rendered (s&c)over cem board with any success? What primer if any did you use and did you use expandable metal? Thanks.

🫣😀 suppose, could double up as a safe/panic room

I have the materials(blocks, sand insulation etc) onsite, just don't want to be spending unnecessarily, I guess it's putting a price on my time. Will have a look at small timber sheds, thanks lads.

Water treatment filtration system is all. From those replies 4 will be good enough(though sounds small). Just didnt want it falling down 🙂

Need to build a small pump house and was wondering if i'd be better going with strip foundation or an 8 inch slab. most likely 8x6' in size?

No where else to route.

Plan is to run intake/exhaust out through eaves. 150mm duct supplied but when insulation is added it will be very tight. So I thought reduce to 125mm out through eaves, contacted BPC to check if any in stock(which they do) but will void warranty if using 125mm on vent axia plus B. Anyone have to do similar and has if affected performance in any way?

Plan is to run intake/exhaust out through eaves. 150mm duct supplied but when insulation is added it will be very tight. So I thought reduce to 125mm out through eaves, contacted BPC to check if any in stock(which they do) but will void warranty if using 125mm on vent axia plus B. Anyone have to do similar and has if affected performance in any way?

I have 25mm at slider for tile plus adhesive, am thinking 3mm decoupling mat will leave it very tight(if using some type of glue as adhesive would put me over 25mm). Does the whole back surface of mat need glueing?

One of the external walls is just over 10m and had a small window slightly offset of the midpoint. Should I get plasterer to fit an expansion joint? Also where there are openings,are they classed as breaks in the wall that facilitate movement in the plaster negating the need for expansion joints?

Got that impression, just needed confirmation, so is it correct to dash onto butter coat as it's going off?

* should have read "to the butter coat". @nod can you shed some light on this, thanks.

Chatting to plasterer re wet dash, he asked how many coats the were specified. My understanding is scratch coat and butter coat, the dash is then applied as the butter coat as it is going off(though not exactly sure when that is) am I wrong? He said its alot of extra expense whereas if he applies a thick scratch coat then dash onto that. Any advice? Also what is the idea of the butter coat?

What thickness is the mat @nod also what brand, thanks.

Thanks @Dreadnaught, according to the drawing the exhaust will be upwind of the intake relative to prevailing wind. Am sure I could put in an extra couple of 90's to swap the configuration but would it be better to them running as straight to atmosphere as possible?

Thanks again Joe

On another note, according to the drawing bpc provided re. Diffuser location, we're supposed to have one close to the sink. But we have a false hip due to vaulted ceiling and have no access to that part of the roof from the attic. The same at the living room end of the kitchen. I can get a Plenum halfway up the slope, but the autism in me will be looking at vents out of alignment, any ideas?