zoothorn

@PeterW on the worktop spiel it says to leve a 5mm gap, important re expansion/ swell movement over time. Especially important I leave this re. my moist atmosphere so will be doing so. Can you remind me Peter what I'm using to stick &/ or seal the worktop to the wall.. with this 5mm gap in mind-? Top2 has already started to bow 'up' after I router cut it flush (hopefully tmrw if I can get cabinets 3,4 level relative to the other sink cabs, & fixed in). Alarming, & will make the jointing to the sink top1 an even trickier job. I've slapped somAA Osmo on underside & back edge. And can you remind me what I'm using to stick, &/or seal the sink onto the worktop-? thanks zoot

@onoff Hi there- yes indeed it is connected/ I didnt need to move this one.. thicker.. terminates under stopcock. Other 2 thinner, one each to start of copper just infront of ISO's. Now I have placcy h2s0's connecting to the ISO's, I dont have the space I had before to connect.. a tricky affair now, will have to go around the ISO brass valves. If I -have- to put them back on.

That's a terrific answer JSH, appreciated. I understand almost all of it. Now, I think have a modern consumer unit (incongruous to the rest of the appaling additions to the old 1830 stone shell).. with RCD protection. A Crabtree unit with any number of wee black flip down fuse/ switches, & a big Master double red switch RHS. Is this an RCD protected system you refer to-? I'm 95% certain it is, as I had exactly same in a (modern, well built Extension) prior properrty which had a hair-trigger trip thing which seemed to work very well. And I just flipped back the one that occasionally went pop. What does RCD stand for?

So, without knowing what that means.. can I check the H/C water, & my tap.. just for now, with these 2 wires not connected?? I'm itching to just see if my tap works.. nearly 7 hours doing these 2 connections!

@PeterW @newhome if anyone could just give a vis check/ & have any idea about these 2 mystery wires.. as you can see i just don't have the available area to link these wires to now Ive got Hep20 stuff on..

This is surely one thing where the Hep20 stuff falls short of copper > copper. I didn't think at all of these 2 wires not being able to connect them. But where do they eminate from? they can't be anyhting electrical, that would be nuts to have anything relating to the house electric circuit terminating near water area. And I have an earth junction, which looks suitably BIG & HD to think -this- is the electric grounding point. Anyone know? i know onoff gave a link & explained in detail.. but I couldn't understand a single word of it.

No I assume not to actually put on plastic. But what Ive got is the ISO's > very very short length of copper > Hep20 elbow > copper pipe > hep20 elbow 'up' etc etc. The elbow almost touches the brass nut of the ISO's.. so far back Ive set them (as the tap's connectors are naturally right at the back of the cabinet). So I only have room to fit them actually onto the ISO's. Which I'm not sure I can even manage. Where are these earths from??

@PeterW I'm ready to turn on my ISO valves, just to check my plumbing. I don't have the "earth" wires (as I call them) attatched to the copper pipes yet.. is it ok to test the H/C watwer & tap etc withoput these for now? KIm way off even fixing in the sink > top yet so whole lot will need to come out again. With all this Hep20 placcy stuff now immediately onto the iSO valves (bar the v.short copper pipes connecting them together) I don't have the area to connect these "earth" wires on.. so I'll have to think of how/ where. They ccan't go onwardssa of any placcy Hep20 stuff can they as that defeats the point of them being terminated onto copper. Very confusing these 2 wires.

Found a clip with copper.. seems just a push fit/ ok I'm set. thanks. zootH

@PeterW I don't think I have the room Peter. But I'll certainly look into it.. another Q for a (shorter!) thread. Carpet.. but won't change as i have the odd damp patch @ sides (normal old stone cttg- ok/ liveable for me) & under.. so old so-so carpet does its job tbh! Peter, Im just going for the plumbing H/C pipes. I look at hep20 clips, & all only show eg's with the metal inserts twist & lock. So using 15mm copper pipe w'no inserts as you said ok to.. is it just a Q of push-fitting into, for eg, the hep20 elbow?? I can't see any twisting of the pipe onto the Hep20 unit as doing any 'lock' for added surity you see.

Thanks Russell, I do have a 10kW logburner, which altho has to contend with an enormous ton of cold 'VS' it.. it can -just- about win the battle now Ive plugged many big gaps around main room edge (that went up to roof!!), remodelled the corner cupboard/ same issue, & put a thick curtain across the stairway. One room ok tho. The others.. lord alive, you've no idea how cold. In winter I can have a heater flat out in here & it'll only heat the air above it & the mice in the loft in a small huddle above that.. & I can see my breath other side of the room. I have to run the gauntlet to uopstairs main bedroom & just dive under cover (immediately above stove too- no heat evidently gained up here). The cold zaps any heat introduced in such a WALLOP, cos its just so badly built. It was always going to be hugely challenging trying to address it by redoing xyz. But hey, it was one reason it was £125k.. woman before just couldn't deal with it ( snapped my arm off at my 1st lowest offer & scarpered).

Sorry onoff but again, there's no cause for rudeness please.

Its an idea.. but the doorway into the main shell of the cttg skims my head. Its conceivable tho, I could add 1" of C'tex + 1" of concrete ontop, leaving door as is, an arched step into kitchen at the door opening arc. But the logistics of even removing everything in here to do is HUGE, let alone the step 'down' into the UT room adjacent, unless I do that too.. but that then means also the Bathroom.. which is such a n'mare to consider (basically the idea can't include this the coldest room of all, which is kinda daft, but removing the basin/ bath/ WC.. is a no-no after only just renovating it all last year). Plus the time/ & leaving everything hanging on a thread until its done.. I'm just not sure I can face it. I just got somewhere today & finally can see the road ahead, thinking of stopping/ taking it all out again & replanning the whole floor.. christ on a bike. is it conceivable I could do this at a later stage? knowing how I put it all in will surely facilitate removing xy & z.

Onoff consider this, if you would. An eg of a different building. A local well-to-do xmas tree merchant/ king of log suppliers etc with a new build HUGE house.. & outbuildings, modern: one a single story, basically a long huge garage, single skin wood double doors one end. Cold winter evening, doors constantly wide open (he going in out for a good few hrs). We had a natter leaning on the doorway (about my cold house > what logs etc). Now.. my point: I could -feel- the warmth one step into this garage, a fab all-encompassing warmth the dog wasn't going -anywhere- but in its basket @ the side so cosy it was, & boy did I I envy the dog). The doors/ the wehole of one end of the room open, but still it felt warm just a step or 2 inside. Why? bc & so evidently bc, of the modern insulation in the floor, walls chiefly: such welsh guys will have it sorted so up to par it'll p*ss on most english comparisons/ boy do they know cold as we do here- & how to tackle it.

Onoff there are no draughts from the backdoor, nothing of -any- significance at all. Seriously, if you were here, you can just -feel- the cold eminates from the floor. You are no colder near the back door, no draughts are felt. I have one single pane window near it.. but even if I changed this to DG (which I'll have to do to scratch an itch, like this C'tex job) & sealed every conceivable mm gap around the back door.. it would make not a mite of difference. Not an iota. So even if I have the odd gap between the C'tex & the battens, or in the cnr where the PB's meet/ however well I could possible fill, it will be a moot job. I know this now. I didn't know before (so the combination of natural expectation + good folks' adamant views that it -could, & likely would- make a big difference [even with my scepticism as I just know this house] + if I hadn't have tried I'd always be asking the Q.. meant I had to try it.. &, alas, it hasn't worked. Its my fault/ it was my decision).

Haha no the fridge is the lower bit! Seriously, outside is actually very slightly warmer than in here. Its the floor unquestionably now, as I thought but hoped it was only contributing to some, & the walls were part of the reason. Its absolutlely horrible, unbearable: I have a fan heater going over 1/2 dial, near constant on/ off, aimed at my feet only 4' away.. but my feet are still cold. You can magine what I had to contend with during the cold march maybe now.. I had to keep active to live/ basically keep warm. This house is almost unliveable in due to this terrible cold issue, I've never known anywhere like it tbh.

One major disappointment though I'm lafraid. The terrible, dreadful, insipid cold.. is there exactly as it was before. Its not even a cold day, just a tad of temp drop off.. & my feet & ankles are cold, my nose is cold, & I have a fan heater on. Exactly as it was before I'm loathed to admit.

endgame.. jeepers I'd think sometime in the winter-? This may well turn out to be a 6 month job..

Titebond here! Right one Q Ive been meaning to ask, is the fridge here LHS. I get SO fed up having to bend down to use, esp the veg tray: anyone know of, or what I could sit the damn thing ontop of say a good 2ft s'thing.. needs to beaqr alot of weight (+ microwave on top) anyone done similar?

Had some shims thx onoff/ needed. Slow.. progress: went nuts & sink cab IN/ abc, xyz as level as I could, then 2nd LHS. Solid. Waste bits done (£1.27 for coupler.. reused bits as 3m min grey pipe tom buy, so butchered old bits (full of dreadful oomschka omg!!.. worse than the fkn mice). Waste tested- no leakings- & solid. Top back off/ a support rail to put under RHS on wall. Then onto cab3,4 to fit. Then cut top2. Im waiting on glue so held up till then. Then to fit sink in top1- I need to ask Q's on this/ recap.

@Ferdinand, thanks for your input btw.. his is a temp upstand/ sort of the idea.. tho pine isn't up to par.. And a mock-up.. nowt connected or joined yet. Attempting some bits fixing today.. but getting cab tops to be level relative to each other, so the tops can join properly.. is into another frying pan: very tricky with not level floor, cabinets all shift about. Ive set aside all day for this levelling & to fix cab1 in, & maybe fix top1. Christ the time this takes. If Id known Id never had started: timescale/ is totally affecting motivation.

Yup as I thought/ planned innitially then! (the old nuts I've got), just the odd sentence so easily mis-interpreted.. such is the www/ forums. Ok much appreciated Peter. I'll crack on then now, stop getting me knickers in a twist mis-interpreting posts.

Ah good. Brain fog clearing. Right why was I then pretty much told by screwfix guy that I need inserts I wonder. No bother £10 back- good! I've got a good 1m of copper pipe/ good condition, but it is used. I can clean up with wet n dry. Never bought new copper pipe before.. don't know where from!

This is why I'm totally confused as prior to this you say "You will have to use the isolators.." I keep opening one can of worms after another. Its like when hippy Neil said "oh no, out of the frying pan.... & into another frying pan".