zoothorn

Peter sorry I'm confused if I can go back a step. What I was asking is due to this limescale I see, are the isolators shot.. or good still? do I go with them, or remove them? I -can- surely connect onto the threaded ends (why not? this has sown the confusion).. bc if I leave them in situ, I have no choice -but- to connect to them. Surely if I 'm keeping them, I just put copper pipe in/ olive/ the old nut back on. No-? This Hep20 stuff.. now have I got this right I wonder: I am using copper pipe with this hep20 stuff... yes? I don't have to go get 15mm placcy stuff? And if so, do I also use these metal insert things? or are they solely for placcy 15mm pipe cos its structure is weak in comparison?

I know the reason its 38 pages now.. its these double posts by the 'puter. Lokk can we pop it down to say a rounded ~ 20 pages then it's all even stevens. mods.

What just leave these you mean/ as before > connect onto them?

Right! see it now.. ok just need 1m of grey pipe/ tmrw > can do this now. Is in the way of the copper plumbing but hey- that's a major step fwd. Ok on to prepping the hep20 bits. 1st I need to show you the inside of the two ISO valves, facing me this end. They obviously work fine, & water getting through with no probs too. So if it ain't broke...?

But I have slacked the nuts off. If I swing the whole white shebang round a bit.. the no ammount of 90* elbows will be able to span the angle. Plus its only about 3" higher that the pipe its gotta meet.. an elbow + a section of pipe, is far more than 3".. so won't meet. If I swing the whole thing round 90* the grey is facing twds me/ then when I tip the tub out in the sink, & then go 'downstairs'.. it all hits me in the face.

Ive tried all that Peter, but Ive come to this ^ conclusion as to the only way I can join these 2. When you say slack the nuts off, you mean the whites..? there don't appear to be any on the grey bits, orare there-?

Aha thanks newhome! ok looking at the 3rd pic. What I'm thinking (the simplest way to get me from pipe end here, to my new white trap section) is to swivel the whole shebang 1/8th of a turn, @ the Mickey hole point elbow. It does move a bit here. What I'm trying top establish, is whether such a swivel is normal.. or a no-no due to there having been glue or something in with the friction fit of 2 normal grey sections into each other. Here is all I need it to get to, the orange O. But do I force it up, or swivel it on Micky point.. or no-no to both ideas?

1st on the job plumb Q. Trying to get grey pipe to reach white trap U section.. & not surprising can't. I can see what needs doing, which is swivel the whole grey pipe from Mickey hole around a 1/4 turn so the entrance point to the cabinet is higher. But I need to hack away at the back cab hole in a great long section to feed it in via a higher point. And also to swivel it on the Mickey hole point. Is these 2 jigs the right idea.. ? this would be simplest in terms of 1 less elbow. But Im not familiar with how these grey bits are meant to fit together. Can you just whip the straight sections out of the elbows.. & reuse the elbow, or are they fixed in to each other with a layer of glue-?

Ok good. Right titebond 3 on its way/ post. Tnite I'm Osmo'ing the worktop inside sink rim, & back edge trim bit I had to do. And the underside too. Cant remember if you said don't bother.. but spiel says so, so will to be safe. Any clear silicone Peter? Worktop spiel also says leave 5mm gap to wall.. which Ive accounted for: is this a std gap? or BIG due to it being wood do you think? so I guess I just whack in a good load all over the edge & press in. I do need to hit this 5mm gap spot on so hope it won't gloop/ fall down the gap.

@newhome et al. I'm not concerned about the upstand.. I'll be fixing an oak strip in due course & being careful not to wet this area beforehand. But its the area of pB -UNDER/ BELOW- the worktop I am asking about, in order to prep it.. with ?.. which has to be done 1st. All is held up until I can establish what, if anything, needs to be put on the face of this 2 ft wide plasterboard section [below the fixed--with-clear-silicone-in worktop] above it, coinciding & adjacent to the plumbing bits n bobs. And/ or what needs to be put on the -whole- area of pB below this sink side worktop.

Yes ok so I'm still not getting what to do with this section of plasterboard, which needs to be done 1st of all then. If I put pva, or 1:1 pva/ water.. the paper surface will soak it in & get ruined, surely. I can't think of how to 'seal' it bc of the nature of the soft plasterboard + paper surface. It seems actually a very delicate thing pB, I was very surprised tbh how brittle & fallible it seems to be.

Damn lucky I was there onoff. Its so tight fixing the sink to top will be a major headache, bowl end, but I'll cross that bridge in a while. I've scrubbed the old placcy bits, if by a trap that's the white U etc bits, & grey bits so with luck they'll get me from A to B. When its come to the few plumbing bits I've done, I dip into this chap's clips/ find he's got a stupid SOH, + professional.. a good combo/ less boring. So I've got the gist of the (waste bits) job.. the water pipes I'm still a bit unsure of tho. Taking.... my..... time..... I do apologise chaps, I know I know etc!! I got friends coming this wknd/ suddenly sprung on me.. sheesh its a pickle in here! so 2 tops to seal raw bits twice / sink to fit in / biscuit prep / fit top1 / join tops / then do the plumbing stuff MUST be done in next few days.

Hey that's nifty.. thanks.

I worked out o'flow thing with all my brainpower at 2am. Thankfully red bit's squashy, & just squeezes thru gap only presssing runner in a few mm's/ fine, once Id cut off a good bit of joining grey 'L' pipe/ done. This is how tight things are due to huage bowl.

Peter, cutting edge of worktop2 to butt up against t'other.. I have an angle to cut off the end. Now you alluded to " I guess you know how..? ": well do I.. is there a better method than measuring this gap > applying to opposite side > mark/ score line w'blade > cut (over by 5mm with a jigsaw 1st > tidy up clean onto the line with a router via straight edge was my thinking)-? Also here's hep2o bits.. anything missing? (think maybe I got 2x too many elbows in fact-?). I'm cleaning waste grey/ white bits to re-use.

The pink shows the flex endpoint, they'll just go thru gap above (between bowl & drawer runner), & need to go one fwd, one back a bit of it. The waste pipe peeps thru LHS with sponge in (pongs). The only issue, is the o'flow pipe lying here: it -cannot- get thru this gap. I'll need to fashion something.. or.. just not use it/ block the outlet: I never use a kitchen plug anyway ever, just a placcy bowl within it. Pic 2 is the old stuff removed.. reuseable? can be cleaned, if needs be.. (£53 on 0.5l of oil & the Hep20 bits today alone + placcy bits to get = cost of the mixtap!).

Imagination! I can barely recall the name being of a band let alone a song.. some sort of 80's soft disco? I got Chic mind! that close enough? Onoff cheers for that- I do exactly this procedure with 3/4" pine.. rarely can I get the surface flush tho, most times its 1mm min out. Its pot luck & I can never understand why.. poor cutter it can only be/ will have to do tho. Ok bought some 3058 clear Osmo oil (howden's- bored m'aged mngr woman major flirting with zoot! he had to make excuses to get away). And 6x Hep20 elbows, 2x Hep20 1/2" > 15mm male input jobs, 20x metal inserts, coloured whatnots, some clean 15mm pipe. Can't cope with all the placcy waste bits & odd o'flow thing stuff as well/ I'd have needed a sleep outside screwfix. Have to be done wed: so if you could help with what I need on this front I'd be grateful. What I had in mind for the upstart is a long strip of hardwood (maybe 1/4" x 1" H ) all along this top, oak or so to ~match the top as best as, once top's selaed in place. Then varnish it copiously.. or Osmo it too? Then tile the sill; Is that a decent plan? Pic of cupboard inside coming up..

Can you remind me what upstand means 1st.. are we talking the small lower join section of pB (between my 2x full width ones L & R of wall2)? Thanks chaps ZootH

Yes I did when I 1st moved here.. I was in deranged panic mode worrying about my 2000 Lp's chiefly. I tried one.. & it filled litres of water within hours (alarming).. but its completely p*ssing in the wind such is the microclimate: its very unusual, more akin to a rainforest- no apes (well one) but no exageration re. moisture. Something to do with the end of a small valley/ 'bowl' as we are, pine forests high close around, sea mist drives in horizontally. Beautiful tho. Its just a Q of living with it/ getting used to it rather than trying to attack it- you just cannot win, or even makes inroads.

Osmo oil is on the list. Good link that newhome. And I'll try to get titebond 3, or if not some waterproof VG woodglue.. & go ply-aided joins. Biscuit cuts.. I hate them as I can never get the slot cut perfectly centrally/ perfectly matched on the 2 edges, however super-well prepped I am, but no choice/ this may be one side 2mm higher than other I just have to accept. This is why I was looking twd -any- other method instead. Looks a cracking job there Peter, & glad to have your input as you recommended the acacia's iirc, now I can see you know best on them! The spiel mentions oiling the inside cut areas, 3x, as well then as a slight nip off one corner/ edge 12" to make a good fit to the bowed in wall. So Ive got raw side sections & a concealed raw back edge 12" to consider before I fit the worktop into it. Due to the gnats chuff fit of bowl into cabinet frame, below the top, fitting sink in -after- the tops fitted.. isn't possible. So plan is.. 1) I need advice on the small PB section @ the plumbing area as onoff alludes to/ seal this or prep/ make good, 2) get all the cabinets in on 2 sides 3) prep the tops' "raw/ cut" areas, ie inside c/o 4) fit sink to top1 5) fit top1 in 6) join tops/ fix top2 in 7) plumb bits in 8 ) oil tops.. alot This will prob take you guys or an experienced fitter a morning, but will likely take me the whole week.. the only downside.

Urban-backcountry-chic tap. Or get another one. Its in my face as I fanny about in me sink doing stuff, being too cool&BIG. godam tap. Tip top tap tipped for tip in top tourist trap.

"If you want it to not move, sand the edges lightly to get rid of the oil and then mark the angle of the end of the unfixed portion - assume you know how to do this ..?? " Here onoff.. its the moving/ bowing the worktop spiel that came with it says is sorted -with- oiling. Also the spiel shows pics of clamping/ bolting (kept placcy wrap on tops until only today to protect- spiel is underside of pretty pics facing out) so still feasable maybe.. & nothing decided upon until I come to do a job: the circular clamp c/o I could do with one of these cheapo holesaws I just got + chisel.. & a trench with a router.. IF that is, this is the very best method. If Peter's idea is as good, with the square ply bits, then I'll go that easier route.. but again damp issue- ply is very prone to moisture/ warping. It needs extra care/ consideration working with wood here. Do it once/ do it as best as, taking silly time if that's what it takes (it is & some!) is my way I know likely infuriating to you experienced chaps.

Yup homebase acacia tops. Ok understand all you say Peter, bar this ^.. & I read on the spiel they come with, that lots of oiling etc esp edges, to prevent bowing/ warping & water ingress. But you say no oil-? nothing? it surely needs something as the surface is very 'unfinished/ raw' as it is, &, the most pressing issue here: the area is -extremely- damp, I mean you get your (dry) post & it feels limp/ moisture laden. Constantly (bar this weird summer). Clothes always feel never quite dry.. you just get used to it, affected my lungs to begin with, but it is extreme. My Howden's back door -mdf clad in 1mm veneer, then coated copiously by me- bowed in a few months & expanded drastically too it jammed time after time/ complete cr*p tbh. On the other hand a new basic pine (internal) solid wood door near back door.. seems fine. Which is why I said yes to the tops.. but I must do ALL I can to seal from moisture, even 3x coats of xyz I'm happy to do due to the weird climate.

Actually the damn tap is too big.. for the kitchen being on the small side, esp moreso now, & spoils the view of the garden: old mixtap was a low squat job which didn't 'go into' the window area from this ^ pov. buggerit.

Now, the connectors are top RHS & the overflow thing.. advice on what placcy waste bits to get if you would chaps. Smart n tarty.. tap's rather IM A BIG SHINY TAP though..