oranjeboom

It's from a local water softener company, so not even sure it works as it was from a used unit. I may actually try it to see if it works on my unit and resolves the drip issue I have. If it doesn't I'm happy to post it to you. I may bit the bullet and get a new unit all together. Maybe Paul can give us a group discount! ?

Hi @tommyt Thanks for the clarifications/answers. 1) machine's settled down with the Rejens now. 2) The pipe's that dripping is the 3/8"waste pipe from the 'shuttle valve' mechanism (see pic). I've done another manual rejen to see whether that make's any difference. Worth changing it for another mechanism? Or could it be a valve in the timing mechanism which isn't quite closed? 3) Yes, the salt decay has also slowed down I've just tested the water and it's bloomin' hard! So I guess that indicates the resin bed has been damaged/needs changing? I read somewhere that you need to turn off the water to the unit de-pressurise by turning the rejen button and the unscrewing the top 2 screws on each tank (see arrows in pic)? If the beads spurt out, I need new resin! I may just keep it as a spare and see if I can pick up a reconditioned unit!

Hope you got (your?) disasters sorted out @Nickfromwales!! Should have stayed at home seeing it's the 13th today! The very reason I won't do any plumbing today whilst I wait for the vinegar to do it's stuff on the willis heaters. I just bought the more expensive Wilo ("Green button technology") - overkill? I could get the other cheaper one if there's nothing in it to recoup a couple of beers. https://www.screwfix.com/p/wilo-yonos-pico-25-1-6-130-glandless-circulating-pump-230v/6153x 6m Max. Delivery Head vs 5m on the cheaper one. Not sure the flow max is correct on the more expensive unit: Thank-you!

What have you done now???????????!!!

Dear Nick, this is the best I could find. Ratlike. I've taken one heater out and yes, some scale on that. I'll try and insert a camera in there to have a good inspection and then get some vinegar in there to soak for a while. So which pump would you recommend? https://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/central-heating-pumps/cat831036?action=compare huh? I'm not planning to adding any further heat source. I may go for ASHP next year depending how the heaters work out this winter.

But still don't get why it was fine to start off with. Scaled up in 4-5wks? It's kettling as soon as I switch the unit on so TMV is nowhere near target temp. If I go get a pump locally tomorrow (SF/TS), any flavour I should be getting? I like the green colour on this one: https://www.toolstation.com/wilo-yonos-pico-circulating-pump/p75983 A bit of contrast to the other colours I have in there. but best of all I get some kind of free bag with this one! Current one I have on the manifold is a Grundfos GFTHB (UPS2 25-40/60 130)

Just pop the bottle in the post please... I;ll try not to store it next to the wife's wine collection.

2x20a switches back to CU both on separate breakers. So why has this setup been okay up until now (well 4wks). Build up of scale on elements restricting water flow and causing it to kettle? Pic of 'naked' setup without all the insulation:

No, I'm using the manifold pump for both heaters: Pump appears to work fine with this arrangement on slow speed and had no issues up until now. It's a distance of approx 1.6m between heaters and manifold. They are both set to about 50oC. The thermometer on mixing valve never went much over 30oC

Thanks Peter for 3) Seems to have settled down a bit now and not lost much today as I guess the water is too 'briney' for further salt absorption. 1) No further regens since yesterday as far as I can tell (hence no more salt loss) 2) Still dripping. 3) Thanks @PeterStarck for input above. Seems to have settled down a bit now and not lost much today as I guess the water is too 'briney' for further salt absorption.

Right, so following on from my blog entry here where I discuss using Willis heaters to heat up my UFH (https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/blogs/entry/680-temporary-heat-source-for-ufh-willis-heaters/ ) I'd initially tested them earlier in the year when I'd set them up and then only in the past 4wks really started to use them for some evening heat in the house and they did their job pretty well (not turned on all the loops yet as there are some rooms that aren't completed yet (north colder part of house). So only switched them on manually for say 2-3 hours each day. Yesterday one of the heaters started 'making noises' that he was not happy, so I switched that one off and left the other one to run. Then today the other one also decided it was not happy. Video below, with aforementioned Willis...'making noises'. 20201112_164008_001.mp4 To me it sounds like a kettle that's trying to boil/simmer with not enough water. I'm suspecting it's scaled up already in this short time. There's no heat coming from the outlet pipes at all and the heaters themselves don't feel warm either. I still have pressure (1.5 bar) so I don't think I have a leak anywhere and no water in pipes. The manual bleed valves indicate there's water in the manifold at least. Any other ideas before I start dismantling the buggers as there's at least 4 compressions I have to bugger about with which were a pain to seal initially? Resident willis heater experts @Nickfromwales, @TerryE ? :-) TIA!

Okay, I re-plumbed the unit and did two manual regenerations which flushed the resin without issue as far as I can tell. I'm waiting for a water hardness test kit to arrive to prove the I have soft water as I can't tell by taste and too early to tell whether the glass on shower gets scummy. Follicly disabled scalp so can't tell whether the shampoo lathers better! For those people on here with these non-electrical water softeners, hoping they can shed some light on the following. @tommyt - I think you are now our resident softener expert! ? A few observations/questions: 1) So first manual regen was yesterday morning and then I noticed the unit go into regeneration mode again this morning just as someone was having a shower (it started a few secs after the shower was turned on). A bit concerned as I've read that automatic regen should happen every 400L or so, and I doubt we've used that much in less than 24hrs (only me at home during day)!! I presume the meter is set up to calculate litre usage from the last regeneration (whether manual or automatic)? I'll keep an eye on when the next regen happens. 2) The brine discharge pipe is constantly dripping which it should not have any flow unless it's doing a regen. About 750ml per hour, so quite a loss. Any ideas anyone? 3) The salt blocks are constantly sitting in about 10mm of water. Should that be the case? I've read that they should only sit in water when the machine's doing a regen. I've also interpreted that they should always be sitting in water: https://www.harveywatersofteners.co.uk/faq/why-does-salt-dissolve-way-it-does/ Each block has lost about 60cm in height since yesterday. Is this perhaps linked to issue 2 above?

I bought mine from JTM who seemed the best priced at the time in 2018: https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/hep2o-brass-manifolds-c661

Okay, following on from my post here (where I purchased a used Harvey twin tank softener) I have now gotten round to finally installing the unit: I don't have any user/install instructions apart from what I have found on the web. So having installed all pipework, turned off bypass valve and opened up the valve to the unit, I can hear twin tanks fill, but then starts squirting out of the fill valve ( the pipe thing mounted on the side, between the two tanks.). Is that supposed to happen? I'm guessing not as instructions state the water softener compartment should be filled manually with a jug of water: So I imagine if the above instructions are correct, then my unit should not be filling up! Video attached to show the water running out of fill valve below. I turned the water off in case this isn't supposed to happen! 20201109_154119.mp4 Is it perhaps in regeneration mode (see first pic)? Or perhaps an o-ring needs replacing in the fill valve? Or as it's a float valve it will stop filling when the desired water level is reached? Thanks in advance for any tips!

Hi again, having tried to install my unit today and getting my head around the unit and their functions (and come across an issue!) if you think it's your shuttle valve, let me know as I may have a spare one.

Hi Spaceman, I still need to plumb in my used unit to see if it works (possibly today), so have no idea what may be wrong with yours as have no experience of these units. IIRC, @tommyt used to fit water softeners so if he's still on BH, he may know more. You may have taken the plunge to buy a new unit.

So the only workaround is still for a CTRL-ALT-DEL each day on the Qontroller either manually or via a timer as per @Jeremy Harris (https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/7743-sunamp-container-bulging/?do=findComment&comment=136938) ? Not ideal, but an easy fix still for someone still contemplating going down the Sunamp route.

I believe the controller now comes built into the main SA unit. Not sure if that's a good thing or not.

I would have thought if you fix into the internal timbers of the SIPs that would suffice. And then also pack out the void so that the cladding does not compress. I also have SIPS but will at some point in the future have a balcony with independent supports into terra firma below as I don't want any complications with the fixings into the SIPs and cladding. But I think in your case as long as you know where the solid timbers are, then you should be fine. If you have no solid timbers where you need them, then you could just fix through the OSB/PUR/OSB portion and use these types of anchor: Assuming you have not plastered yet inside!

This will be a very welcome addition to these Sunamps and long overdue. Too late for the ones of us here who still have little idea as to the charge status on the older(er) units. The controller is now also built into the main unit rather than a box on its own.

I got my carpenter to do it through his books.

Hello Christine, after the network provider's usual ineptitude they were removed. I had to push them for timelines now and again and waiting for their budgets to be approved. We came back after one summer break (must have been last summer) to find they were gone. No idea how they did it as I was not consulted for access etc (poles were just over the fence line) and no damage done to garden or house. In my case I did not push them after my scaffolding went up (I didn't want them interfering with the build!) and that must have been up for 2years at least...). I think that once they know you want to get rid of them and that there is no wayleave agreement, they really need to get the ball rolling. I think if prospective buyers know that they will be removed (in writing) then that would placate most. SP = Scottish power? Try Carol Davies. Wayleave Officer at SP. I don't have her phone, but she's on LinkedIn.

Not the greatest pics:

Yes, the buggers weigh a lot but people have been able to haul them up the stairs like @Jeremy Harris (not a 12Kw one though). Other installs have been able to use specialist stair lifters: And I put my units on wheels in case of future needs to move: So I wouldn't discount Sunamp purely on weight - there are workarounds!

They were a local Kent company. Will PM you the details.