Redbeard

Hmmm... You should not really need to wait, unless the fan is really much too small. It really wants to be sealed into the opening. I worry about the cat...

Can't see v well, but is the dropped floor where the hearthstone was?

Yes, I was not suggesting the Morrie at least could be put on the road, but there may well be re-usable bits 'hiding'. I did once have permission to put a motorcycle in the living-room, but it never happened. Worked on bikes in a few kitchens, though! When you have removed the under- (over-) growth show us pics of the other cars and I bet we can help. Any motorcycles....? 🙂

How chunky are the kitchen joists. Are they more spindly - just to take a ceiling - or do they look similar to the ones above. If the latter, why not strut between the 2, so the kitchen joists take some of the load?

Hey hey! That looks fun! Agree the journals etc must be of interest to someone. With the mixer and dumper you may well find that the engines, being so basic, are 'resuscitatable' (if that's a word!). Don't assume that the Morrie has only scrap metal value. Dig deeper. Perhaps it's the camera angle but, although the shape looks 'Minor' the bonnet looks longer than a Minor. Grille looks Minor, though. Looks like a door is open, so internals may not have been 'saved' much. The web tells me that there is a thriving owners club if it is a Minor: https://www.mmoc.org.uk/. I bet an invitation to members to come and look on a given day and make an offer would be well responded to. What are you going to build when it's all clear? (Or is that already on another thread?)

@joe90, I agree in principle, but @Dee has already put said notches in the wrong bit, a remedy for which you have suggested. @Dee asked "So, in what scenario would you notch the top of a joist? Surely you wouldn't run waste pipes over joists?" No, I would not seek to notch for that big a pipe, but @Mattg4321 's suggestion was, I think, that it could be less critical at the top (although still requiring strengthening). I agree re holes in the middle, but I am not sure what max dia hole (at joist ctre) is allowable in what jst depth. Edit: Now I am! I re-read that Eden DC link: 0.25 xx jst depth, so 37.5mm. O.P. What's the waste pipe dia?

Have I misunderstood? Why not?

I had previously written: "Sounds like a potential recipe for interstitial condensation, whatever the Glaser Method (BS condensation risk analysis tool) says. Glaser method will only spit out results according to the gist of what you tell it. If you say it's got a VCL it will assume *perfect* VCL. I'd get it modelled at least, if you have not already done so, preferably in a dynamic model such as WUFI, but practitioners are hard to come by, in my experience. The Glaser method, if I remember rightly, covers itself in saying that the outside of the 'sandwich' should be permeable in case water vapour *does* get through. Your tanking slurry would/could mean that the wall is no longer permeable." The 'right place in the sandwich' would be on the warm side of the insulation. Theoretically the foil on the PIR (the 'room side' of the 125 layer) should be the VCL, but it needs detailing *really* tightly, and I would suggest using air-tightness tape on joints and perimeters, not foil tape which, at the corners, is not strong under tension.. Normally you'd go for VCL immediately next to the plasterboard, but at that point your VCL is incomplete because you have battens. You could use a separate VCL in this position. Is it possible to send us a picture or diagram of how this will look? How sheltered is it? How likely is wind-blown rain, etc.?

Why are you paying for heat when you effectively have a hole in the top of the house? Would it not wait till you have the insulation in, then a given temp rise costs you much less... No idea why font is pale and tiny.

HSE had a really good guide to working with relatively low-risk asbestos materials. For soffit boards they suggested shaving foam. If you used that (although you should still wear a mask and all the required PPE, of course) the dust released would be minimal. Dispose of the shaving foam and 'dust' as you would any asbestos. https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/a9.pdf

Bet the glulam moved less than the oak would have!

...and if you want to go for 'woody', I find it a bit hard to see how SIPs (with some inherent thermal bridging AIUI) is much better than a TF and fill of your choice. Do you mean you would DIY if you did SIPs? You could also DIY a TF. I did my 'design', got SE to 'prove' it and off we went.

Joist depth Notch depth 150mm 18mm 175mm 21mm 200mm 25mm 225mm 28mm 1 more row • 5 Oct 2022 Notches and holes - Eden District Council

Still bothered about the tanking. It seems to be an impermeable barrier at the very wrong point in the thermal 'sandwich'.

Yes, @joe90 exactly what I meant. That way you can get the joints good and full, even if you can't get in to 'tickle up' the pointing. If it is so close, and thus so sheltered, I should have thought just striking them off flush would suffice.

Sounds like a potential recipe for interstitial condensation, whatever the Glaser Method (BS condensation risk analysis tool) says. Glaser method will only spit out results according to the gist of what you tell it. If you say it's got a VCL it will assume *perfect* VCL. I'd get it modelled at least, if you have not already done so, preferably in a dynamic model such as WUFI, but practitioners are hard to come by, in my experience. The Glaser method, if I remember rightly, covers itself in saying that the outside of the 'sandwich' should be permeable in case water vapour *does* get through. Your tanking slurry would/could mean that the wall is no longer permeable. Why do you, or your advisor, think you will not be able to achieve waterproof-ness building 'blind' anyway? If it's 50mm from its neighbour you'd be pretty unlucky if it was classed as exposed. With careful use of a pull-up batten I would think you could get the joints pretty good, just not pointed.

Hmmm, The membrane I think you are describing has a good role to play in basement waterproofing. I would rarely suggest its use elsewhere. It appears to be used in a number of situations where good drying-out would/could have solved the issue. You seem to describe thicknesses of insulation which would not, on their own, meet the target U values set put in the Bldg Regs. Added together they might, but like you I do not like the idea of possibly having made each side of the 'sandwich' impermeable.

@Ferdinand, I was wondering about one of those. Presumably you have to get the optional hose kit and either dangle it out of a window or drill a hole of the requisite size? Any 'learning from experience' gratefully received. Thanks.

Tell us about the current heating system, temperatures maintained and relative humidity. What does your ventilation 'system' currently consist of?

Absolutely. It was plainly not a recommended application, but given that, as a bodge, it was remarkably successful.

Yes. I would recommend never leaving thermal bridges un-'cloaked' if you can help it. Take care if you are doing any IWI inside CWI. Get a condensation risk ass't done.

Oddly enough (luck, not good judgement!) I never had difficulty getting SLC well, level, but it did not last well as a final finish. I used it on my Damp) cellar steps, with sanded bitumen below. It lasted a fair few years but cracked a bit as it went on.

Pictures and list, please, so we can see what the issues are. 'Outrigger party wall'- is that what we'd call an offshot in the North, and if so where does that come into the loft conversion? Pics would be really good, as I am visualising a 'typical Yorkshire' 2-storey offshot which would not have enough headroom to be part of a room-in-the-roof.

What sort of contract did you have with your builder? Is there wording to the effect of 'fit for purpose'? Could you show 'objective' evidence that it is not? Can I suggest that you consider making a DIY air-testing fan? I think there are threads on here. Some use a van radiator fan mounted on a board with a hole (and guarding!!) and others an office fan. Extremely useful. This could contribute to your 'objective' (see why I used the inverted commas?!) evidence if you can show pictures/videos of smoke being blown away via incoming draughts from, say, sockets, skirtings, reveals when the fan is running.

The silicone at skirting level will stop draughts from the plasterboard/block (mini-)'cavity' coming into, and cooling, the room, but it will not stop air-movement behind the boards cooling the board surface, unless full perimeter beads (and preferably cross-hatches) have been used. Where I *know* that boards have been on 'pure dabs' I have injected air-tight foam at approx 50mm centres. N.B, OP, this is *not* to try to get full foam fill behind the boards, it is to close off the perimeters.