Beau

As you are clued up on these can you see any obvious problem with this bundle? Only nervous as its cheaper than I expected 🙂 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296685682787?_skw=geberit+wall+hung+toilet+frame&itmmeta=01JK8EKMECXEBCV8CR5HH046S8&hash=item4513d84063:g:N1UAAOSwqJpm4W9v&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlwJnobVTHF%2BBBT4d%2FM1P8G7jyhKvE0SA4rM9FOEMA5dN4UIJqKj6qtKLKvS3AJljm2t9S%2Bh8119dn1%2BZ0q7yOh9XYvYHngi1Jjn78Ai0ac6SQfPeVxWLl0HDCKsw%2F73Ph81WBqHTrpt9oXZRQRt5uFohHC0TLfKY1fBApl76TB9mvx9thsz4gM2ceeoDChH5u9FmVSUanbAiF1azlI7iF50wZjjoNvbpNgZqqYRIXI1S3zGcheav7b2AJK05u7vK4F8EnX0fAqy%2BvbLzzi6AgBlo5En7%2FYjAbeYZEIu%2BUvj2GLHmqq98gAFNmecv0K46E%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zHzo6aZQ

Fab Many thanks

Old thread but can you have a horizontal waste exit on these? Every diagram I can see shows a 90degree bend behind the pan going down or at right angles to the pan. Thanks

I see so do it on the wall. I had it in my head of making it up first but doing doing in 2 stages makes sense. To be fair I have just had a more reasonable quote than initial pricing so we will see. Thanks

Been a bit taken aback by the cost of insulated plasterboard in comparison with buying the materials separately. Would some low expansion foam work OK at bonding the PIR to the plasterboard? Thanks

Yes I was intending to use PIR between and below the rafters. Mineral wool above and between the ceiling joist as no presure on space there Thanks

Thanks Susie I've hunted around the internet for info and found others suggesting 50mm so I will go with that.

I will ask another way. How big a gap is advisable between the roofing felt and a PIR board on the underside of the rafters to allow ventilation?

One side of the room is vented to a lower loft and the other side has no vents at the eaves but zero evidence of damp issues. The rafters are 4x2 and I'm wondering if I can part insulate the gap between the rafters as well as under the rafters. The roof has a non breathable felt but plenty of air comes through the laps of the felt. I'm planning to just use mineral wool between and above the ceiling joist. Whats peoples thoughts?

As said it's just a 'shake' or most probably heart shake. Very common when the board is cut near or includes what was the centre of the tree https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shakes_(timber)

Been trying to work out the difference between them. Looks like the CV 3 is much the same as the CV 2.1 but with an app or have I missed something?

Thanks John. Some great info there. How long have you been using these units?

Hi all. I'm just planning an en suit bathroom as part of our farmhouse renovation. I have considered trying to fit MVHR to the whole house but the house is so rambling I dont think I can ever do a proper job of ducting or airtightness so I come back to dMEVs. Reading reviews noise is often mentioned as a downside so I was hoping I could find a loft mounted unit that could go on the wall in the loft instead of a ceiling as I would presume this would be quieter. All I can find is standard ceiling/wall mounted units. Whatever we get we want decent quality that will last as we are fed up with failed extractor fans. Thanks Beau

No use to you but our BCO (now retired) was qualified to grade wood so there are people out there.

We recently found asbestos in the place we are doing up. After some deliberation we chose to deal with it ourselves. I didn't test to find out what type just treated it with greatest respect as if it was the worst sort. Full PPE with a quality FFP3 well fitting mask, disposable protective suit etc. Wetted down areas as we removed to avoid dust. Hepa filter bag for the vacuum. Disposed of in double bagged asbestos bags from Amazon. Local council would have taken it for £15 per bag but as we had lots of old asbestos roofing sheets that needed getting rid of as well we paid for a dedicated skip. If you want to test I came across lots of testing kits on Amazon like this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Asbestos-Sample-Testing-Instructions-Postage/dp/B0862B9JZB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=63795696136&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TS7zR6siGZmvW6hOwQ6q4c1haebaSiGZB7xI5nuGgELj8QZd53_AjhVwsWpbHJpFF4vJCBN7u0GrSXAMJyyADFvx5iBsfE--arACKeVEJZ0lpheocc8rsVqNLcF0OVHDsRTqvFtWCGWXOcYPAsjFKRkVrBcwKSTDzegweJXtm9KIBMQt7Hev8A64W6ZgEpfzoOCCnTTBSUQmJbDVdNU8I-0CP2hF9zK_-QkL4R2pY4v1g2ZarhdGU8Rpfiz7NT5daz-oUmk3eRumYyIfdkWIcPqtZXCkz0Xx9ie4A0Jz_J4.8Vi_AiaqfAKc5uc7rJlBD0diL5wiPv3-kl_eEj2aOeM&dib_tag=se&hvadid=318197641917&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9193111&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=11128230385786911236&hvtargid=kwd-296856693050&hydadcr=27760_1764367&keywords=asbestos+testing+kits&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1737671379&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Oxalic acid should help remove the mould marks. Any varnish or wood oil should help protect agains it happening again. That looks a fair sized gap and it's hard to say what the cause is. The worktop shouldn't be able to drop presuming its well secured to the wall underneath and the base units are tight up against it. If water is running in the gap and wetting the underside of cill that will cause the lower side of the cill to expand while the top is not getting wet to the same extent this would cause the cill to 'cup' upwards.

As hinted at get the base units bang on level. The worktop fitting in the captive part of the U is a PITA so know your limits as to what you can do yourself. A cheap well fitted kitchen will look better than an expensive poorly fitted one.

Thanks Both Yes I was presuming I shouldn't have floorboards underneath but if I overtopped them with nod's suggested 12mm cement board would that be considered OK? I have just come across this board that does sound like it might do the job in one https://nomoreply.co.uk/tongue-and-groove-floorboards/. Anyone any experience with it?

Hi all. As part of my ongoing project of renovating an old farmhouse I'm just about to add an ensuite bathroom to a decent sized bedroom. The current floor has floorboards. I dont want the boards continuing under the stud wall I will be building and want a good base to potentially tile onto. Last time I did an upstairs bathroom I used 18mm T&G ply but I think this is now frowned upon. Whats the recommended materials for this sort of work now? We have not yet made a decision of floor covering but dont want to rule out tiles. Picture of the floor boards in which hopefully you can make the lines were I'm intending to build the stud wall Thanks

I looked at extending our PV with the Cornish Rocker system. I realised how little was to be gained from the tilting but key clamp seemed to be the way to go for fixed or tilting. Our old ground mount is just on a treated wooden frame

I've messed about with making sound dampening enclosures in the past but inside The usual 3 options Containment. Clearly not a great option for the heat pump Absorption. In the case of my project this required acoustic rockwool which is much denser. Again not easy in that space Diffraction. This is breaking up the sound waves. The ivy on that hedge is probably doing that pretty well plus probably some absorption. Could you grow a creeper up the wall of the outside shed and fence?

Lower is still better. We have a GSHP in an open plan barn here and the flow temp in the UFH does not need to get above 30C to keep the place warm in all but exceptional conditions. What are the mixer valves doing? It's a terrible waste to have the heat pump make overly hot water to then have it mixed with cold. Just lower the flow temp and not have it mixed if thats an option As other have said WC is an absolute must for good efficiency. Both our systems use it and keep the places at very consistent temps with no influence from internal thermostats.

This is what jumps out at me. By not using the rads the UFH has more work to do so the flow temp through it has to be higher lowering your COP. The most efficient systems I read about have everything open so lots of water running at low temp to heat the place. Oh and welcome to the forum 🙂

Having only had wooden windows in the past and just got some PVC I would now choose PVC. I am sick of the maintenance wood requires. If budget was endless then wood as I could just replace them as and when they rot out. Ali clad wood sounds nice but just so expensive. A friend went for expensive Ali windows and was assured they wouldn't get condensate on them but unsurprisingly they do.

I always dilute the mist coat nearer 50/50 as recommend by an experienced builder friend as the plaster takes it in better. Did our first place near 20 years ago and no peeling of the paint to date