Beau

Yes I may be overly complicating things. In hindsight setting the tray under the Jackboard would probably be a good plan and I may well do that on the next two bathrooms. Only thing I'm no sure on is how much +/-mm there is for shower panels to fit a tray. I dont want them overlapping the edge having set the tray in too far. I will know more once Ive finished this one.

Think I'm just going to see if I can stick the loose part back with some OB1 and hope for the best I have 2 more bathrooms to do and dont want to get in this mess so how do you like to seal your shower trays/baths back to the wall? Thanks

We had no signal inside but pestered Octopus to sort it. It took sometime to get an appointment but they fitted an external arial in an adjoining shed which did the trick. We used a multifoil insulation in the house so the signal had little chance of getting out.

I have just started the renovation of our old family home. First job is a utility room with a shower. Its some years since I have had a building project and I see XBS backer boards are a popular choice for shower surrounds so that's what I have used (Jackoboard). I have got a Mira Flight tray. I want to be belt and braces on waterproofing so got a shower sealing kit which comprises of a primer, sealing tape and a liquid waterproofer. Jackoboard is supposedly none porous so I haven't used the primer and this was confirmed as the correct option from the technical helpline for the waterproofing. Where the tape seals between the shower tray and the wall the instructional video shows cutting the perforated edge off the tape and then pressing it into a layer of the waterproofing paint. This is where it's gone wrong as it has not bonded to the tray at all and not especially well to the Jackoboard. I really dont want to strip everything off if I dont have to but can you see a way to reseal this edge and what I did wrong? Thanks Beau

We have some conservation rooflights which the paint is starting to fail on. Like these https://www.therooflightcompany.co.uk/all-products/conservation/ To be frank the the rooflights are pretty poor thermally. Steel frames which get condensate which drips in to the room. I was a furniture maker in a previous life and was considering making some wooden openers (the frame set into the roof looks OK). Was thinking of laminating the frames for stability and sealing them in epoxy. Also not sure if high spec DG or triple glazing would be more sensible. Any thoughts on the matter would be much appreciated

There is a thermometer fitted but it has no influence over the GSHPs running. You can alter how much influence it has but I was told the system would be most efficient with it run 100% from the outside thermometer and the weather compensation so I had it set that way at the start and have never changed it in 10years

Our GSHP has this. You set it up manually and adjust the heat curve until you obtain steady internal temps. How it technically does it I couldn't say for sure but it can see the outgoing and return temps on the UFH and knows the external temp. Ours will keep the house within 1 degree C unless I run the wood burner

Hi all. Not done much 'eco' work on the house for some years but now with sky high electricity costs interested in extra PV combined with battery storage plus an agile tariff. Going to have a look through old threads to learn more about the subject Thanks