Beau

Go for a battery machine if you afford too. Hedge trimmers sit about for ages between use and then often have fuel issues. Also petrol machines blow the fumes straight into your face when hedge trimming. I've gone for the pro Stihl as I already had that battery system and I'm sure lower spec machines would be fine. Run time is way longer than I can keep going

We fitted a Mira flight safe a few months back and really like. Just about to do an en suit and going to use the same again

Just a warning about Liebherr. We got one of their fridges as it was supposed to be the most efficient. It's not very old and the door seal is cracking. Spoke with a repair guy and he said it was a common problem with Liebherr and they can be very expensive to change. Neff induction hob and oven which are 15+ years old and been faultless

As mentioned above get a plug cutter. Dowels leave the end grain exposed so suck water in very easily so leads to premature rot unless using the most resilient species. I use a set similar to this which have no end of use over the years but OTT for just a one off job. Need a drill press for a perfect hole and plug https://www.axminstertools.com/8-piece-matching-plug-and-bit-set-8-15mm-700330?glCountry=GB&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA5Ka9BhB5EiwA1ZVtvD1e1nguThTD55cQEHEB_9XKrL3An9IxG935-l_0ikggaKn0mWLd1hoC8GYQAvD_BwE

Could you use a tile backer board XBS insulation like Jackoboard and just bond the herringbone straight to it? Ive only tiled onto it but would have thought with the right adhesive you could bond it to wood. Might be worth having a read of theirs and similar products specs

Get a Freely compatible TV? 'No dish, no box no need for an arial' https://www.freely.co.uk/

As you are clued up on these can you see any obvious problem with this bundle? Only nervous as its cheaper than I expected 🙂 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296685682787?_skw=geberit+wall+hung+toilet+frame&itmmeta=01JK8EKMECXEBCV8CR5HH046S8&hash=item4513d84063:g:N1UAAOSwqJpm4W9v&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlwJnobVTHF%2BBBT4d%2FM1P8G7jyhKvE0SA4rM9FOEMA5dN4UIJqKj6qtKLKvS3AJljm2t9S%2Bh8119dn1%2BZ0q7yOh9XYvYHngi1Jjn78Ai0ac6SQfPeVxWLl0HDCKsw%2F73Ph81WBqHTrpt9oXZRQRt5uFohHC0TLfKY1fBApl76TB9mvx9thsz4gM2ceeoDChH5u9FmVSUanbAiF1azlI7iF50wZjjoNvbpNgZqqYRIXI1S3zGcheav7b2AJK05u7vK4F8EnX0fAqy%2BvbLzzi6AgBlo5En7%2FYjAbeYZEIu%2BUvj2GLHmqq98gAFNmecv0K46E%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zHzo6aZQ

Fab Many thanks

Old thread but can you have a horizontal waste exit on these? Every diagram I can see shows a 90degree bend behind the pan going down or at right angles to the pan. Thanks

I see so do it on the wall. I had it in my head of making it up first but doing doing in 2 stages makes sense. To be fair I have just had a more reasonable quote than initial pricing so we will see. Thanks

Been a bit taken aback by the cost of insulated plasterboard in comparison with buying the materials separately. Would some low expansion foam work OK at bonding the PIR to the plasterboard? Thanks

Yes I was intending to use PIR between and below the rafters. Mineral wool above and between the ceiling joist as no presure on space there Thanks

Thanks Susie I've hunted around the internet for info and found others suggesting 50mm so I will go with that.

I will ask another way. How big a gap is advisable between the roofing felt and a PIR board on the underside of the rafters to allow ventilation?

One side of the room is vented to a lower loft and the other side has no vents at the eaves but zero evidence of damp issues. The rafters are 4x2 and I'm wondering if I can part insulate the gap between the rafters as well as under the rafters. The roof has a non breathable felt but plenty of air comes through the laps of the felt. I'm planning to just use mineral wool between and above the ceiling joist. Whats peoples thoughts?

As said it's just a 'shake' or most probably heart shake. Very common when the board is cut near or includes what was the centre of the tree https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shakes_(timber)

Been trying to work out the difference between them. Looks like the CV 3 is much the same as the CV 2.1 but with an app or have I missed something?

Thanks John. Some great info there. How long have you been using these units?

Hi all. I'm just planning an en suit bathroom as part of our farmhouse renovation. I have considered trying to fit MVHR to the whole house but the house is so rambling I dont think I can ever do a proper job of ducting or airtightness so I come back to dMEVs. Reading reviews noise is often mentioned as a downside so I was hoping I could find a loft mounted unit that could go on the wall in the loft instead of a ceiling as I would presume this would be quieter. All I can find is standard ceiling/wall mounted units. Whatever we get we want decent quality that will last as we are fed up with failed extractor fans. Thanks Beau

No use to you but our BCO (now retired) was qualified to grade wood so there are people out there.

We recently found asbestos in the place we are doing up. After some deliberation we chose to deal with it ourselves. I didn't test to find out what type just treated it with greatest respect as if it was the worst sort. Full PPE with a quality FFP3 well fitting mask, disposable protective suit etc. Wetted down areas as we removed to avoid dust. Hepa filter bag for the vacuum. Disposed of in double bagged asbestos bags from Amazon. Local council would have taken it for £15 per bag but as we had lots of old asbestos roofing sheets that needed getting rid of as well we paid for a dedicated skip. If you want to test I came across lots of testing kits on Amazon like this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Asbestos-Sample-Testing-Instructions-Postage/dp/B0862B9JZB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=63795696136&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TS7zR6siGZmvW6hOwQ6q4c1haebaSiGZB7xI5nuGgELj8QZd53_AjhVwsWpbHJpFF4vJCBN7u0GrSXAMJyyADFvx5iBsfE--arACKeVEJZ0lpheocc8rsVqNLcF0OVHDsRTqvFtWCGWXOcYPAsjFKRkVrBcwKSTDzegweJXtm9KIBMQt7Hev8A64W6ZgEpfzoOCCnTTBSUQmJbDVdNU8I-0CP2hF9zK_-QkL4R2pY4v1g2ZarhdGU8Rpfiz7NT5daz-oUmk3eRumYyIfdkWIcPqtZXCkz0Xx9ie4A0Jz_J4.8Vi_AiaqfAKc5uc7rJlBD0diL5wiPv3-kl_eEj2aOeM&dib_tag=se&hvadid=318197641917&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9193111&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=11128230385786911236&hvtargid=kwd-296856693050&hydadcr=27760_1764367&keywords=asbestos+testing+kits&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1737671379&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Oxalic acid should help remove the mould marks. Any varnish or wood oil should help protect agains it happening again. That looks a fair sized gap and it's hard to say what the cause is. The worktop shouldn't be able to drop presuming its well secured to the wall underneath and the base units are tight up against it. If water is running in the gap and wetting the underside of cill that will cause the lower side of the cill to expand while the top is not getting wet to the same extent this would cause the cill to 'cup' upwards.

As hinted at get the base units bang on level. The worktop fitting in the captive part of the U is a PITA so know your limits as to what you can do yourself. A cheap well fitted kitchen will look better than an expensive poorly fitted one.

Thanks Both Yes I was presuming I shouldn't have floorboards underneath but if I overtopped them with nod's suggested 12mm cement board would that be considered OK? I have just come across this board that does sound like it might do the job in one https://nomoreply.co.uk/tongue-and-groove-floorboards/. Anyone any experience with it?

Hi all. As part of my ongoing project of renovating an old farmhouse I'm just about to add an ensuite bathroom to a decent sized bedroom. The current floor has floorboards. I dont want the boards continuing under the stud wall I will be building and want a good base to potentially tile onto. Last time I did an upstairs bathroom I used 18mm T&G ply but I think this is now frowned upon. Whats the recommended materials for this sort of work now? We have not yet made a decision of floor covering but dont want to rule out tiles. Picture of the floor boards in which hopefully you can make the lines were I'm intending to build the stud wall Thanks