Vijay

Do you have to have an air brick/vent too with an integrated garage?

Definitely gonna listen to your advice Dave and will do that if there's no benefits to 140mm over 100mm wide block work/internal walls

These are just for internal walls, the external walls are ICF

Nice idea. I was just trying to keep work down as I'll have so much to do

Load bearing as it'll support floor joists and the attic trusses. It's not a concrete slab, I'm having B&B floor downstairs

I have a mix of concrete and stud internal walls, the concrete being load bearing. They're 100mm wide but the question of changing them to 140mm has come up and I thought I'd ask if anyone would bother? Would it make in easier with chasing wiring, light switch and plug boxes? Cheers Vijay

Another thing is to make sure the tiling underneath the lighting is perfect cos the light will show everything as a mate found out once he turned the lights on

I agree that things will change as you build but I believe you still need something set in stone to work from that's actually as right as it can be before you start

Yep, including VAT - £199.97+ VAT

Has anyone every used one of these? Costco have them for £239.96 which from a quick search is £100 cheaper than elsewhere. Could be a very useful Christmas pressie to myself https://www.amazon.co.uk/DeWalt-DC618KB-18-Volt-Heavy-Duty-Cordless/dp/B000Y8U40Y

Cheers Oz07, I will relook at positioning them. My mate who helped me yesterday sent me this useful youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dN3Iku0Bns

Thanks guys How far out would you recommend the profiles are set so they don't get disturbed when digging?

Started this today and went pretty well. Measure diagonals and we were pretty spot on. Got loads more to do as we only got the basic shape measured and marked out. Out of interest, is an acceptable tolerance 10mm in 10 or 20m? One thing that was a complete pain is trying to drive stakes into the ground straight and on mark - any tips?

Lovely, that sorts out the garage lighting then

this post? http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/topic/1141-plan-printing-at-a1-or-a2-laminated-any-business-offer-this/#comment-15464

Quite like those panels for my garage/workshop. Do they give off a nice working light?

Just wondered if anyone has any recommendations for composite front doors? I've seen some that have a wooden laminate but ideally I'm looking for something maintenance free. Also, is glazing in composite doors available in triple glazed?

very impressive!

The floor is B&B. External walls are no problem, it's the internal load bearing block walls which obviously sit out foundations. I've attached a grab of the detail as it is now. There is no thermal break between the ICF/B&B floor and the block wall. So I'm thinking of coming out of the ground in foundation blocks, then thermoblock and then the internal block wall

Just wondering if anyone has used Marmox Thermoblocks to stop cold bridging at floor/wall level? http://www.marmox.co.uk/products/thermoblock My build will be in ICF and I intended using ICF for the rising walls too. The issue is I will have a cold bridge where the ICF rising wall meets the internal block walls and I was thinking instead of using standard foundation blocks with Thermoblocks to stop the cold bridge. While I was thinking about this, it seemed pointless to use ICF for any internal rising walls and sleeper walls, but instead use foundation blocks. Any thoughts? Cheers Vijay

Would that be from BC?

I know I need a radon barrier but the reason I agree it's a mistake on the TA's behalf is because in the description he states the radon barrier is on top of sand blinded compacted hardcore

Garage is attached. I don't believe I need a radon sump as the other plots didn't

Cheers guys, exactly what I thought and hoped you'd all say

It's more for me to know exactly what's going on and if something is on the drawings, understanding why