Vijay

My plans have FFL marked on them but I need to set a datum point. There was a datum mark on a fence post that the other two houses worked from but they removed it (for some unknown reason). So the easiest way (and cheapest) is to take a known point from the house next to mine to set a datum point for me to build from.

I'm pretty certain I can see an air brick on the side of his house so can do the laser level thing straight to the top of his air brick

That makes more sense and probably the case. Such a shame in weeks he can't answer it though Unless anyone can think of a reason, I will take it as a mistake but which with BC too

According to the drawings from the TA and SE, the base layer is 50mm blinding on top of 150mm type1 - so can't see why that would need to be vented................

The development is off the main road by a fair bit. I can ask the neighbouring plot but he can be up his own arse so I'd prefer not to ask him anything if I'm being honest

Afternoon, My TA has drawn telescopic air vents in my garage slab. I've asked him if this is correct but can't get a reply. So for the life of me I can't understand why they're there and what they're venting?

Hi Brickie, Yep, that's exactly what I need to work out so I can get to roughly the same height Vijay

Cheers Jamie Might actually get there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's what I was hoping to do and wondering if I could work from the airbrick height? As you said, I want to be around the right height but I need something from the neighbouring house to work from

I think this looks right now? Blue is waterproof concrete

Thanks MrP, that's exactly what I was looking for

Roughly the right height as???

Hi Jamie, I think putting it up would work too, Alan normally puts it down so that's why we've gone that way. It's the waterproof concrete (that I've coloured blue) that I wonder if I need to raise higher by 150mm

Hi Peter, But if I went straight across with the radon barrier, that would be at external ground level and would that not be too low? (I assume it would have to be 150mm higher than ground level). Also if the radon barrier went straight across the two layers of insulation, that would prevent the concrete from bonding to each other. Every doorway needs a timber former made up anyway so I don't think cutting of the panels (using the Polarwall system) will be an issue?

Mine has been drawn as Tony says. The reason I've asked is I want to try and get a FFL from the house next to my plot as the original datum mark that was on a post has been removed from the development. So I was hoping to work things out from his air vent

Is it normal practice for the top of air bricks/vents to be at finished floor level/150mm about the ground level? Would it be any different on a timber frame house? Cheers Vijay

@TerryE Cheers Terry. Do I have to enter a scale anywhere as the result it's giving isn't right at all?

Hi, Is it the correct way to have the damp proof course at finished floor level, which is 150mm above the external ground level? I've attached a pic where I've had to raise the height of the B&B floor so it sits on top of a complete ICF panel but then that leaves me with the waterproof concrete (that's used as the damp course) at the external ground level. The only solutions I see are to use an extra 150mm of waterproof concrete to raise the damp course to 150mm above the external ground level (so the waterproof concrete is at the same height as the FFL) or to have some sort of external ground drainage (which I don't like the idea of). What do you guys think?

I've loaded varicad but how do you measure between 2 points?

I've also had good results using a wet paintbrush too, smooths it out nicely

decorators caulk

I think that's correct a there's a bin place marked on the original approved plans which is right next to the public road

I think it's only because that was agree with planning when they developed the land. I'm personally not bothered as long as it's a good access road but I suspect the neighbours would want block paving now because of the look. What other surface would you suggest, tarmac?

I know there's something in the plans about having to have a turning circle for a fire engine but nothing about weight. I will look to see if I can find anything from BC on the matter. Just Googled the weight of a fire engine - 13t

I intend to run it past the neighbours too as I totally agree, I won't be happy if a drive is laid that can't take residential deliveries I think taking 35t would be asking a little too much as he would have to put down a block paved drive suitable for commercial properties. I just think it's a real grey area as it's a private access drive and not a front drive of a house - so has to be suitable for any sort of vehicle surely..............