Vijay

Or would the 100mm of paving sub base work as a temporary drive? I know it would get damaged by vehicles but then I could just top up the base again. Would that work and probably be cheaper in the long run??????

Thanks Chaps. I think we have crossed wires in some posts though. I will be having block paving as a finish, so I'm looking to put something as cheap as possible that will be a layer under the sub base for the blocks paving. I believe the buildup for block paving is approx 200mm (from the paving expert site), so I thought it best to lay a cheap hardstanding that I don't really care if it gets broken up or crushed down etc. UNDER the 200mm block paving. So, I dig down 400mm from FGL and lay 200mm of road planings/crushed concrete/anything else if cheaper. This may get damaged with concrete lorries etc. At a later date when I'm ready to do my drive, I lay down a geo-textile membrane on top of the 200mm sacrificed layer, then 100mm sub base, then 40mm bedding then pavers. How does that sound? Vijay

I've got to make sure that none of the mud/clay spoils get stuck to any vehicles and then driven out onto the road. I'll be putting down some hard standing in the next week or so once the drive is dug up, but I need to put something down to allow the muck-away vehicles to get onto site. I don't have mains water yet but I do have a small 12v pressure washer that I made up - but I don't think it would be powerful enough to clean wheels, especially the treads - and I also can't see drivers happy to hang around while I attempt to clean their tyres........................... I'm looking for something cheap and cheerful and wondered if some thick DPM would do the job? A mate suggested used astro turf which can be picked up on Ebay for less than £100 but the problem is actually transporting it as it's pick up only. Ideally something that can be rolled/folded up so I can keep it as clean as I can and out of the way when not needed. Any suggestions on stuff that has worked for you? Cheers Vijay

Just wanted to update this after emailing the concrete supplier. He said exactly what Peter said, RC30 - " You always use RC codes when steel is put in it has a high cement ratio and lower water " So I emailed the SE again who said there's no need but he's happy with RC30, which the supplier is doing at the same price Vijay

I always use a wipe of Fernox LS-X on pipes that are a pain or in an awkward position and I don't want to touch again. It's brilliant stuff

Cheers Pete. Any idea what sort of thickness I would need?

I need to get down some sort of hard standing surface for the concrete lorries to drive up on so I'm wondering what would be sensible to use. I realise it will get ruined but what I'm thinking is it might act as a pre-sub base (so under the sub base) for my block paving? For anyone who's had to do this, what material did you use and what sort of thickness? Maybe crushed concrete or road planings? Cheers Vijay

I actually feel sorry for you to have been put in this situation. The fact that the tiler is a close relation to the PM makes it even more shameful on the both of them. Stick to your guns and have it out with them or you will always hate that floor. There's no excuse for the job they've done there!

Yes you're right, but I think any tradesman worth his salt would want his work to be spot on and if materials were an issue, then they would tell the customer and proceed only if the customer wanted them to

It would annoy me if a trade realised a problem with the materials and carried on regardless without telling me.

Is there a minimum that the drainage/waste pipes need to be under external finished ground level? I need to look at the drainage points and work out falls. Is between 1 in 40 and 1 in 110 for falls right? Cheers Vijay

Maybe an idea to post up some pics?

I've wondered the same thing. Tiles will look nice but how soon before they chip/crack? At least with paint you can give it another coat

I was really surprised when the private BCO looked at my footings so far, he just commented that as long as I've done what the SE has specified, he's fine with it

Building inspector came round today, nice cheery bloke who was happy to chat. He's got absolutely no problems with the foundations so far. He just said as long as I do what the SE specified, then he's happy

My idea was to use odd bits of timber props to the opposite side to hold the thin sheeting in place while I back fill. Then when the concrete goes in, pull the timber props and sheet out. The issue is will the corner collapse into the concrete though....................................

I did wonder that but it was also for neatness too. Any ideas the cheapest material I could use for shoring the corners? I wondered if I could just use very thin 3 or 5mm ply/hardboard and just back fill with earth to take out the majority of the collapsed corner

Already lost a few corners so will definitely have to board up some corners to save concrete

Decided to call the building control company and the inspector is popping around Monday to confirm he's happy with the depth of the footings so far. My digger mate doesn't really want to go over the same part again and again as the front of the house has a few recesses where the ground is bound to collapse if the digger goes over it too many times.

Pretty finalised as I need to make decisions and stick to them otherwise I'll keep changing forever and never actually get it done! lol I think there'll be a fair few blocks but I don't mind fitting them all myself (and a couple of mates if they can help) - It's a good workout!

I'll have to advise the floor beam supplier anyway or they'll try and sell me their slips anyway for those gaps

That's pretty spot on to what I'll be doing, except the Polarwall inner panel will come down to and in between the floor beams - so they kind of encapsulate the beam. It's more work cutting them to fit but Alan has said if I get him the exact measurements' he'll cut the fillets to fit for me

Just a personal choice really and also to keep the materials the same, as it makes sense to carry on with concrete from the footings upwards rather than have concrete footings, then block and then concrete in the ICF, Yes it's vented with telescopic vents and I would rather have some insulation rather than none

That's exactly what I thought but wondered if there would be a reason it was done like that. SE has replied saying as long as the measurements from FGL to bottom of concrete footing is 1200/1500 it is fine

Got a slight snag with the foundation depth after clearing all the topsoil from the plot. My rising walls will be Polarwall ICF for the external walls and foundation blocks for the internal and sleeper walls. My external walls will also be in Polarwall ICF. I've done some quick drawings to show my issue. The structural engineer says the important thing that he is concerned about is the distance from the bottom of the mass concrete footing to finished ground level has to be 1200/1500 (depending on where abouts it is). I've wondered why I need so much rising wall out of my footings before I sit the beam and block floor. On the architects drawing, it shows 450mm which is 1.5 x Polarwall panels. This gives me 900 from FFL to top of concrete or 1350/1650 from FGL to bottom of concrete. For ease of installion, the floor beams really need to sit on top of a Polarwall Panel so I looked at doing this. The B&B now sits on top of 2 x Polarwall panels and give me 1050 from FFL to top of concrete or 1500/1800 from FGL to bottom of concrete. Now, this is what I think makes sense as it saves digging out, mucking away and loses a course of Polarwall ICF and now gives me 750 from FFL to top of concrete or 1200/1500 from FGL to bottom of concrete which is exactly what the SE specified. So can anyone think of any reason why this wouldn't work? Someone suggested frost but the rising wall is still 600 from FGL. I should also mention that I've assumed that FGL is exactly that, the FINISHED ground level once landscaping and everything else is done, as it will obviously be lower that the moment with topsoil removed. Cheers for any help and sorry for the long post Vijay