Vijay

Does look fantastic! How is it applied?

Just trying to work out a few internal door positions and wondered what the minimum working gap would be when a door opens against a wall. I'm thinking about 150-200mm to allow a gap for the door handle too? I've just looked over my plans and there's no consistency on the gaps, they range from 50mm to 375mm downstairs..................... Cheers Vijay

Possibly? http://www.3droyalfloors.co.uk/

Finally got to speak to a very friendly BCO today and he's more than happy for the drainage to be within the foundations, as long as movement is taken into account, so either a movement joint or as my builder mate suggested, the pipe boxed with something like clayboard. Also to use a lintel above it but I will add rebar as I'm using ICF

When I spoke to my local HSE office, they told me if the plans were already approved by planning, I was past the point of needing a PD and to put my name down as the role

Cheers Ian, that's a really useful guide. The foundations aren't concreted yet but it would be a pain to dig down further and cost around an extra 3k. My builder mate reckons it's no problem to have waste pipes in the concrete as long as they are boxed with something like clayboard and support over with a lintel (as I'm using ICF I would just add rebar). I'm going to call the BCO tomorrow to check

Is that to create a movement joint? I'm surprised there isn't some sort of support sleeve to use instead of a lintel though. If I'm not supposed to go through the concrete foundation itself, how would I get the fall on the pipework?

Hi Peter, Is there a special sleeve to run PVC pipe through concrete footings? A quick look on Google suggested you shutter up around the pipe with a lintel on the top? So is it perfectly normal to run a PVC pipe though concrete foundations or should it be avoided if possible? Also, am I right in saying that every join where say 2 toilets run into 1 pipe, should have an inspection chamber/rodding point and not just an 45 degree 3 way junction like this?

top of foundation is 750 below FFL or 600 below FGL

If I understand that correctly, that would mean the drainage pipe running through the foundation, is that OK to do? And it's beam and block rather than a slab

If I wanted to run the kitchen waste to the nearest manhole, there's a 17m run. FFL to the bottom of the manhole inlet is approx 1085mm but a 1:40 fall in the pipework would only need a 425mm drop, would a backdrop manhole be the only way to do that? Or do I drop it down at the start of the run and have the pipe going through the foundations? I've asked a couple of builder mates and had different responses - but they don't do new builds.................................

Is there a PNC number too?

What's the model number of the machine?

Hormann emailed me back saying it's normal for daylight to be seen from the top and side seals - even with an insulated door. Think they need to work on their selling approach lol

Cheers, I saw that in the brochure last night. It really bugs me that they sell a thermal door, but it's not efficient unless you order seals. What's the point of paying for a thermal door and not doing the seals - should be a complete package

Checked with the SAP guys and my garage wasn't included in any calculations

Thanks for that link, I'll keep hold of it for the future. I've got an idea for thermal break leading on from Nicks suggestion. I'll try and do a sketch tomorrow and post it on here for opinions. I'm interested in the thermal kit for better seals cos I really wasn't impressed with the door seals in Hormann's dealer showroom..... Having an attached garage was so important to me as I hate having to put a coat on to go into my garage to do something - even more so when it's pouring down

Yeah I remember your post saying insulation was missing from parts of the door

Did you find any specific garage door manufacturers better than others for the seals?

I use my garage where I live most days and I absolutely hate it being detached and at the back of my house. I maintain my car on my drive so every time I need tools I need to run to the back of my house while leaving stuff on my front drive - not great in London where I once had my German Shepherd nicked! The garage is massively important to me and something I will use a lot as I love messing with my cars and fixing stuff. Garage size is approx 11m x 6m internal with a big 5 odd metre garage door at the front and then I will have double doors to the rear. The internal door (from house to garage) will be as insulated as I can get it or possibly 2 doors. I would love to be able to be in my garage in winter wearing a T shirt and be comfortable.

Thank you guys. Just emailed the SAP people to confirm the garage wasn't included in the calculations.

All plans have already been approved and submitted to BC. There is mention of insulation in the floor but nothing about heating or wall insulation/air tightness at all apart from being built in ICF

how do I officially make it outside the heated envelope when it's attached?

The main pipework looks to be 160mm that runs through the plots with a 1:90 fall. I will definitely look at having IC's inline once I get my head around a layout. The fact I've never heard of an M&E plan would suggest not. What is it??

Understood, I will go inline but check with the BCO before I do anything