Vijay

Oh I see your point now, if they did any air leakage test, the garage would fail miserably. I think a conversation with the BCO may be in order then? Honestly Peter, nothing more than creature comforts as the garage will be my workshop too and something I've dreamed of having for many years.

Sorry Nick, I meant can they be stacked vertically? In line would then have 2 manhole covers surely?

Don't know if this is a stupid question but can chambers be stacked up so you get more than 4 (or possibly 5 if it's the last one) inlets?

I've got no problems having the garage insulated, in fact that's what I'm trying to achieve and building it in ICF too.

I did wonder about some sort of cattle grid but didn't think it would look too good. I'll look into that some more

Any ideas how it can be minimised then?

It's an attached garage and the floor will be insulated and I'm hoping to have UFH in there too

Without a thermal break, surely the garage floor would just have a full cold bridge to the external ground?

external, main garage door. I'll have a drain channel at the bottom front of the door but wondered if there could be a thermal break in the ground

Has anyone found a good way of having a thermal break on a garage door floor threshold? I've wondered if something like Marmox Thermoblock could be used in any way? Vijay

You'd think the display ones would be the ones they'd want to show off I agree, like anything it's down to the fitting

Just went to the Hormann local dealers to look at their garage doors. Although I would be happy with the doors themselves, when I asked about the seals around the doors, they were pretty clueless. After a few minutes of looking, they just seem to use a rubber seal/flap which didn't even stop daylight coming through. It bugs me that you could buy an insulated door but the seals around the frame would just let air in and heat out. Please tell me there's a better door/seal available out there? Cheers Vijay

what about charging?

Yeah I know you can get the paved ones but you can obviously still see they're there. Just looking for alternative solutions, but I completely understand your point of having them, cos if there's a blockage, I'd curse myself if I didn't

Hey Nick. Know what, the falls?

No, the pipes are run around the house but I always thought that it would be a shame to have manholes/rodding points showing in the rear outside area. This is the service plan which I've shown the manhole locations in red dots. As you can see it doesn't make sense not to utilise the manhole at the bottom (of the page). Drainage points are the blue dots

Would running a 10m+ pipe run under the house be a stupid idea? A friend made the point of you could never replace it if you ever needed to

Thanks guys. I'd been told that they should be totally accurate but it seems they don't take things like trees too seriously

This is the only one I've ever seen so I've got nothing to compare it too Topographical survey 10646 2 of 2.pdf

I'm looking at one that was done about 6 years ago and there is a tree that is 4-4 metres out Would the reference round the edges of the survey be OS?

Morning, Are these supposed to be totally accurate showing boundaries and tree locations etc? Would the references found around the edges be ordnance survey references, e.g 251700N or 476100E? Cheers Vijay

Where abouts are you?

Hi Rich, I'll be having a drain at the front of the drive so I'd want to water running down into it. If I was making the drive permeable, I would use type 3 to allow the water to drain through to the ground. But I think I'm correct in saying that won't really happen in clay like I have, hence the run off and drain

Already tried that, they don't have pumps

Measure the main drain run that the developers install which looked to be 6" pipework, it's a 1:90 fall