Vijay

Out of interest, how was both of yours bracing fixed?

Hello bud, Well I hope they don't move too much! They're now braced to the scaffold and I hope that by the time I've circled with the concrete pump, the concrete will have started to go off...........

I will have a few gaps to fill in on my ICF build and will use expanding foam. I know everyone uses it here and there, but I just wondered if anyone knew the approx U value of it and if some are better than others? Vijay

I've spent the last week getting my corners absolutely plumb. I suspect the corner bracing on my ICF, which was fixed to the ground may have moved as clay dried? Anyway, it made me wonder what tolerances are acceptable for wall corners? I asked a new build house and they said one of their walls was out by 30mm over 3m high :O which was done by a gang of brickies. They did go on to say they would normally find 10mm per floor (so I guess 2.5m) acceptable. What would you accept? Vijay

What's the min you would let it mix for 10, 20 minutes?

Never thought of that, will have a look

Did you have new or used? The only reason I want to slap some paint on when needed, is to try and keep them as sellable as I possibly can

Bought some new Kwikstage and the finish on some of it is just dreadful. I need to get some paint that I can slap on it in places to stop it rusting. I wondered if red oxide paint would do the job and is it UV resistant? Cheers Vijay

Doesn't matter what you tell an architect, they'll design a house they think you should have lol

Could you use a fine wire mesh sheet instead, easily washable then?

if you still think there is a leak, maybe get some UV dye and a UV torch, that might help show up an leaks?

Are the parts circled the straps you mentioned, as they look like bolts?

What did you use to the wall plate for the roof rafters, J anchor bolts?

Bolts or J anchors?

I'm Polarwall too but thought I had to use J anchor bolts. Coach screws would certainly be easier. I could swear I read somewhere that it was every 1500, but as you said, even at every 400, coach bolts are cheap. Did you use them for the roof plate too?

Just wondered with you ICF guys, what size anchor bolts did you use for joist wall plates and wall plates for roof trusses? Also what spacing between them? Cheers Vijay

One of the best wet and dry vacs I've ever had is made by Earlex, it's been going easily 15 years. The only extra I ever bought was the washable filter.

Thanks everyone. Ordered some rolls or wire and a manual twist tool and I'll see how I get on. Onoff, will knock up one of those drill twist hooks too

I think the way to tell is no more sawdust from the holes/floor underneath?

I'll ask my S.E but I don't hold out much hope even getting an answer from him.....................

Never though of cable ties, but access isn't really a problem with Polarwall as I can fit the ICF panels as I go

Came across a simple idea https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tie-wire-twisting-tool-for-Rebar-tying-fencing-landscape-gardening/283428628623?hash=item41fda9a88f:g:x6sAAOSw1RVafoqf

It really is as simple as working on my own, getting large cages into place is a job I just don't fancy. I've had a chat with the ICF supplier and he agreed that it would be easier for me to make them in the ICF. Apart from plenty of sharp metal edges, why is it such a ballache to make them in place?

Getting large pre-made cages would be a complete headache trying to get them in place. The plan is to buy the straight bar and bent link bars, then build them in situ, hence I asked about the tool and wire to tie the cage bits together

Got to make up quite a few cages for lintels for my windows and doors on my ICF build. I've never made cages in my life, so I wondered which tool is easier to twist the wire, the one with the hook end or the one with the pliers end? Also, is there a standard wire size for tying rebar? Cheers Vijay