Nickfromwales

Not my problem. Lots of odd balls out there tbf, and most would like to do something themselves with full and free rein, whilst then they’d object to others doing similar. I’ll go make another coffee whilst the world continues about its business.

Ok. In reality, all you need to do is provide a rodding point outside of the footprint of the new build / founds, so you can through-rod it. In terms of it getting blocked, any decent jetter will get in there and clean it out in an hour or less, and if its got no history of blocking I doubt there’s any real issue. If it was my job I’d get a full camera inspection / video survey done before to look for crack / roots / imperfections that may cause problems downstream and get those sorted before covering it over. In honesty / actuality, I have zero idea why you care even slightly about this. It will not / cannot affect you in any way whatsoever, other than a jetter asking permission to open your manhole to be able to jet theirs in the event of a blockage occurring. If it did block, it still wouldn’t affect you in terms of yours still functioning correctly.

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Nice progress. Why the Aquabox? Shit water pressure/flow from the mains?

The floors with OSB, TBH, are pretty bad. I'd lay a 6mm plywood over all of these, and then you should be fine to just lay the product straight on top. You may want better acoustic control for the first floor, so consider using this (LINK) for that. It'll also take out any minor defects / bumps and lumps. For the concrete floors, I doubt you need sound insulation, just an EPS type of underlay (LINK) that you tape the joints with, and that will act as a moisture barrier. You may want to use XPS insulation (LINK) to give better thermal insulation, which will also do the job of moisture barrier, if that floor is particularly cold. This can be bought in different thicknesses, so if you can get 10mm or more down, then the more you put the warmer the floor will be / feel. The thicker stuff will also help with lumps / bumps on the concrete floor too.

Yes, just needs to be scruffed up with some 40 grit.

Maybe good if you can post a link to the exact product in mind.

Unless you piss someone off, this can be yours to do what you like with after it’s signed off. Nobody’s really going to give two hoots, as long as there’s no noise complaints or parties held there you’ll be fine. I was ‘planning’ the exact same thing, for guest stay overs. Likelihood is that my oldest would have gone in there and refused to come back out.

Go to the store and ask them to fetch these to the desk. Then see what fits into what for the solvent weld options and make your purchase Prob one place where your fingers can’t do the walking, as this needs to be right.

It’s perfectly fine, I’d much rather stay up and fight than go to sleep on this lol. One flow temp is not sympathetic to say one example job I did, a very long split level bungalow, lots of south facing glass. On the room stat one end of the open plan area I could see 22°C, and in the WNW glazed master bed it was 18.5°C which the client didn’t like. The only way to cure this was to have enough stats to shut enough actuators and allow the rooms to heat (more importantly at the SE end) to NOT heat. I like your solution for a dwelling that sympathises with it, but I don’t think it is wise to suggest it to people who’s homes may not. It’s why every single new clients project of mine ALWAYS starts with a blank bit of paper, with only their surname at the top.

Yup. I think the increase in expansion volume may aid this situation, and hopefully keep the cylinder static pressure in check; in an ideal design it should be away from the threshold it is living at, eg its obvious that this lives at/on the absolute limit of what the valve is set to react at. The fact it was copper is probably in amongst the trail here, I just assumed stainless, sorry again lol. Adding some more expansion volume is what I would do, if I was asked to sort this out away from here, so that’s what I’d advise you to do. Should put it to bed once and for all.

And it is exactly that, the uncertainty of not being able to get this wrong. It is that statement which makes me confident that I should keep doing these installs the way I do, as I cannot afford to gamble with this even 1%. Lots of self builders on here have built off design, theory on paper extensively researched, and still had got it wrong. Some have had to retrospectively install air conditioning, and more…. Doubt cannot reside in any successful design, if you’re to go and spend money on it, even more so when it’s someone else’s money eg when we advise others or work for them. All of the designs I propose are fully underwritten too, I just get the needs / wants / wishes from my clients and then transfer that into a draft spec, then get system designers (usually the people who are going to supply the kit) to underwrite and commission at the end. Works wonderfully.

If it was for one room then you could have your simple system, but when the sun goes from E > S > W the whole house changes throughout the day. Based on simple terms, you will likely need the stats and actuators for the reason stated, primarily for prevention of any spaces overheating. Depends on how much of your life you have spare, to play with this, fine tune it, and what compromise you’ll be willing to accept with the unavoidable temp changes that will happen from room to room. Yea cannae change the laws of physics, Jim.

Box off the bottoms of the eaves and have a service cavity there?

+1000 Super wall 32 x 150mm full fill.

…..what do you think Then again, don’t answer that 🤐

That 3.5bar relief is just stupid. The PRedV sorts you out at 3.0 or 3.5bar incoming, and protection against that failing is a 5/6 or even 8 bar PRV, usually on the inlet control group. What a shit design! Sorry.

You’re not helping lol.

Ffs. 😘

Mastic The last thing you want is water getting in there and freezing.

I put one in my boys attic room, 180mm hole through stone. Not very noisy tbf, but I didn’t buy a cheap one. Still £400 vs 4 figures. Wish I’d bit the bullet and did split to 4 FF bedrooms and 1 to attic….I hate being hot 🥵

Grind it out and use a mastic that’s designed for this job. You can hire a grinder on wheels like an electrician uses for chasing out. Then put a blade in that’s wide enough to give you a decent bit of space for the mastic to have some purchase.

My point was, these single outdoor units can service 1, 2 or 3 (poss 4/5) indoor units. So if you’re not 100% sure it’s only one room that’ll ever need (or just be nice to have) A/C then consider a unit that can be added to, maybe?

lol. Listen here boyo, he’s a 7 and you’re a fecking 11. No sale lol. 😜.

@jack From that link I think you had a monkey boy change that and he’s installed the wrong one. Just makes zero sense whatsoever. Stinks of (2nd) installer error.