Nickfromwales

@BTC Builder, spill the beans, if you would?

https://www.clockworkscreed.co.uk/poured-floor-insulation These guys just screeded a project I’m currently on, and did a very neat, meticulous job. Laid to the mm for the sliders, and the flush threshold at the front door, so 5 stars afaic. The client mentioned wishing he’d gone for this instead of the sheets of PIR / EPS etc that got laid down ready for the screed. Says 0.037 and PIR is .022 so what’s the consensus here folks?

Glass-glass is the strongest panel you can get, and they take a proper beating.

Start to finish in 5 hours? £60 worth of end-of-line flooring from the local outlet, and a box of solvent free grip-fill. No wet trades needed. No drying time. Paint-less finish. Zero maintenance. I completely disagree!

Yea, you're a 2hr slog from me! Still closer than my current client who's nearly 4 feckin hours away..... the joy...... "Have tools, will travel, lol". Had a member from MK contact me to go change a boiler for him, and he'd had the same trouble, waiting over a year for anyone to tell him "no", or just not reply at all..... My mate and I did it over a long weekend, happy days! There are many different trays / formers out there for different situations, just showed you a random grab to see if you can identify if similar was installed (by looking through the hidden trap in the downstairs ceiling) eg to confirm if they had actually fitted a wet room former, or not. If the floor had been prepped properly for tiling, the tiles would have been higher, or at least the same height as the carpet + underlay. To hear they're lower means the floor is doomed to eventual, total failure. I've seen high-end showrooms recommend fitters, who then switch their phones off, and I then get asked to go back to do warranty work / deal with complaints etc; then I give the customers the good news, that the lot needs to come up and be done 'properly'. Always goes down like a lead balloon. There is no adhesive that will allow you to stick tiles directly to a subfloor, not even 2-part super-flexible stuff, but they could have at least used a decoupling membrane such as Ditra mat. Is the trap in the downstairs ceiling still accessible for some pics?

If it’s for clothing then I just stick laminate flooring to the walls and it works well / looks neat / never needs painting ever again. 👌

I added a 3rd attenuator to that job, as the client wanted “graveyard in Gravenhill” levels of shhhhh! at night. Then foam duct defo helps out, but I’m now being ‘directed’ towards spiral galv rigid ducting against my will….. I’ll do one and see if it passes muster, if not I’ll be reverting back to foam.

A LOT of that goes on. Just crazy. 2 roofers (father and son) refused to go up on the roof until they’d had “breakfast”.

High opacity paint (specifically designed for new plaster) can be pole sanded with relative ease. I always say to start with a good obliteration, so maybe 2 coats sprayed or 3-4 coats by roller, and then pole sand it back. Then coat again to cover the bits of plaster that breaks through, on the high points, and examine the wall again (in areas where it matters) and this will yield great results off the bat without getting the filler out. You use the HO paint as a surface filler, and it’s quite chalky, which gets you to the pint where you can see if filler is actually necessary. Beware aggressive sanding methods, as they’ll send you backwards not forwards, gouging and troughing the surface making it worse than when you started. Watched a guy in one job in Gravenhill apply filler, then sand it all back off, to then sat (expletive deleted) and apply more filer, which he then sanded back off…. then (expletive deleted) again and then more filler. And repeat. Just simply couldn’t comprehend that it needed very light filling, and even lighter sanding.

Agreed. That’s why I keep tempting the best one I’ve seen in ages to come away to work on my jobs. He’s worked for other members here, about to do another shortly (EWI + thin coat rendering, then dot & dabbing and skimming the interior for us). When you see a methodical, conscientious plasterer at work you soon realise it takes time, experience, patience, and a lot of GAF. Without the latter, no trade will shine. I’ve watched ‘my’ chap stop / start the plastering on ceilings, and even gallery-height walls / stairwells (in accordance with temporary stairs out / final stairs in etc), and you’d struggle to tell that this happened, and that’s before the decorators had his crack at it. I met one plasterer down in Dorset a few years back and I offered him double his day rate to come away to do another clients new build house for me, and he just smiled and shook his head. He was drowning in work at home, purely from reputation. His work was probably the best I’ve ever seen. These people are still out there, but none are young. Look hard peeps, as the walls are the things you’re left staring at for a bloody long time! Too many of the “that’s good enough” posse, or others who say they can plaster but it’s not their trade or 1st profession. A very good DECORATOR (not painter) is another thing people just fail to recognise the importance of. These can be the difference between good and excellent, for not much more investment. Excellent plastering can be slaughtered by a poor painter. Choose these two trades well folks.

They haven’t loaded up the joints first, not even an attempt here afaic. Thos was (is) screaming out for another set over the existing. It looks like it was attempted in one heavy set tbh.

Post a pic please.

I've seen better rendering outside ffs. That's total dogshit.

Where the thing shines...... tough crowd, man.

6mm cement (Ellis) board and bond it over with a bit of solvent free gripfill. Dust the loose crap off the area first.

Hinges should be chrome plated brass, so stainless should be ok. Cant mix stainless with mild.

If you want the noise / smell outside, you can have an external system or combi boiler. The downside is the latent heat off it is no longer lending itself to the heated envelope of the house interior. Up to you if you want to kick it out of the house, just needs a slab to sit on and a few meters of pipe extending out through the wall. Oil combi would suffice, and you get brilliant hot water off modern ones; most are heatstore so have a small tank of hot water stored inside ready to go. You need a cylinder if you’re planning solar PV to store summer excess as ‘free’ hot water. Water pressure will need to be absolute crap to warrant the ballache of going for pumps etc. Avoid if at all possible.

I’d drill the 6mm hole and leave some wiggle room, as these drills can sometimes drill slightly off centre. Just squirt the CT1 into the hole, keeping an untrimmed CT1 nozzle handy, and let it displace as you screw in.

Firstly, you’ll be putting these screws in by hand! If you use an impact youll very likely snap the heads off the screws. If you go to stainless then the issue, re snapping, becomes even worse as they’re brittle. Also check which dissimilar metals live together and don’t promote galvanic / electrolytic reactions, before straying away from the supplied ones. CT1 isn’t resin, it’s just a bit tougher than silicone. You’ll be able to remove the screws with a hand held driver. Chill out

I want one.

@David001 Something like this should be in the immediate shower area for the falls, and for the tile adhesive to bind to.

Yup, which is why I asked for some pics from the hatch down below. Seen lots of BS tilers just do a fall with tile adhesive and they always fail. Needs to be a former, and then a ply or Marmox / Wedi backer board to stop the tiles giving up. Just amazes me how trades cut corners like this just to get paid and out the door. Would be less of a surprise if it’s a mass-built sausage factory home tbh.

Can you post some pics so I can make some suggestions? Unit > manifold etc plz.

The Tesla of the 80’s lol.

Challenge the insurance company and ask for full written reason for the refusal. I’ll PM you some details for an SE near you. Another member is using them and good feedback so far.