Nickfromwales

Am I wrong in thinking that this switch is where the 230v supply for the MVHR is gleaned from? Or does the MVHR unit get its mains supply from elsewhere?

Crikey. Is that switch a boost for the MVHR?! Expect the unit electronics to be nicely toasted if so…..unless it’s mains to a zero volt relay at the unit. The plot thickens. You can add a boost with a quinetic ‘momentrary’ wireless (RF) switch, with ease.

Most modern devices will cope at that temp. Try it first, fiddle after, only if absolutely necessary.

Supply N should be a neutral, currently it is shown as a brown cable eg a possible live conductor. This is very odd, but had been seen before e.g. where brown is a neutral but it should have been sleeved with blue sleeving to denote it is a neutral conductor. Conversely, the cable in load N is a blue cable which has been sleeved to suggest it is a live conductor! A proper mess in other words. Can you confirm which cable is the one going to the MVHR unit? The switch you show must be where the 3a fuse resides, which is replacing a generic 1G1W switch (see pic) usually used to turn a bathroom light on/off in a standard lighting circuit. What may be happening here is a local ring main has been taken to this switched fused spur (which is now your bathroom light switch), with a 3a fuse in it. Is that correct and the switch is not as I suspected eg isn't just a 20a switched isolator? A light circuit cannot be fed from a supply that offers more than 6a from a breaker in the fuse board, hence the need for the bathroom light feed to be capped by the 3a fuse. This should now be replaced with a 5a fuse. You need to identify the L & N coming into that switch first, the cable that goes on/off when you turn the circuit breaker on/off in the fuse board, that's the very first job. Which breaker turns this on/off, and what is it rated and labelled as, please? This cable needs to go directly to SUPPLY L & N of the fused spur. I assume it goes to the connector block instead, currently, but then you should be seeing a jumper cable, in blue, that goes from the connector block to the SUPPLY N terminal. This would be wrong anyways. I suspect the N for your bathroom light is picked up in that connector block, whereas it MUST be picked up from the LOAD N terminal ONLY. The cable from this location to the MVHR unit needs to be terminated into another switched fused spur, with a 3a fuse in it. This cable should go into the following: Brown (L) into the SUPPLY L terminal (so now two cables in that one terminal) and the Blue (N) into the SUPPLY N terminal. The cable which goes to the bathroom light, should be going into LOAD (1 x brown and 1 x blue per terminal), which gives the switched 5a feed to the light only. Basically, you need to disconnect everything here and start again. First question is, obvs, can you do this and do you feel competent to do so? If you're not 100% comfortable with doing this, with guidance, then DO NOT touch it any further, and get an electrician in for an hour to sort it. "Death is permanent", please try to avoid this

Unlimited hot water you said! Are you beginning to get cold feet? At least your head will be hot, with all that continuous hot water hitting it from the shower head 🚿 🥵

Liar. She has warned you 🤣

The only time he's ever been late for work was in a drinking competition in Oxford with my good self. They both came a close second lol.

Yup. You set them to be the same height as the ply / other across the rest of the floor, so the tiles carry on from one surface to the other. You can see the former here is appx 6mm higher than the P5 flooring, achieved simply by putting 6mm ply under the former before laying it. This means the tiles are fixed to one flush surface of the ply > former.

Yes, defo has a home, just not so sure that's in an actual home...

Dunno. I shall ask! "It has a minimum compressive strength of 110 kPa, is exceptionally lightweight at 93kgs/m³, and offers a significant reduction in bleeding. Clockwork Screed can pump 1000m² of Aeromix a day which helps to keep project timescales to a minimum. Aeromix can be applied directly onto hardcore which reduces the cement content of the floor’s composition. Aeromix can also be laid on concrete subfloors and over beam and block. Being lightweight and offering thermal and acoustic benefits, Aeromix creates savings on other areas of floor construction such as the need for insulation boards beneath underfloor heating systems and acoustic adjustments." Doesn't say what thickness at 1000m2 though, just like Carlsberg is PROBABLY the worlds best larger..... 2mm thick 100mm thick? Surely folk would like to hear how many m3 they can pour in a day?

Not yet enquired. This was my thought. You'd need to pour this down to the thickness proposed for the insulation layer, and then fit the UFH, which would then be a PITA, and then come back and screed. I have done a few UFH installs where the subfloor is solid, and it becomes a PITA tbh, with a few hands to the pump, whereas with a clip gun and a pipe decoiler I can do a whole house on my own with relative ease (where the harpoon clips are stabbing into sheet insulation). The floor on this particular job was 'rough' and on 2 slightly different levels (existing slab and new B&B platforms to the extension), but no option to boost U value where the thinner areas were would be a concern. A mix of 175mm of PIR and 250mm of EPS was used, and then ~65mm Cemfloor. Far better than the 0.037 they state as "world leading....." "Aeromix offers the world’s best insulation value of 0.037 W/mk"??

Brendon and the guys go to town on the airtightness tbf.

@BTC Builder, spill the beans, if you would?

https://www.clockworkscreed.co.uk/poured-floor-insulation These guys just screeded a project I’m currently on, and did a very neat, meticulous job. Laid to the mm for the sliders, and the flush threshold at the front door, so 5 stars afaic. The client mentioned wishing he’d gone for this instead of the sheets of PIR / EPS etc that got laid down ready for the screed. Says 0.037 and PIR is .022 so what’s the consensus here folks?

Glass-glass is the strongest panel you can get, and they take a proper beating.

Start to finish in 5 hours? £60 worth of end-of-line flooring from the local outlet, and a box of solvent free grip-fill. No wet trades needed. No drying time. Paint-less finish. Zero maintenance. I completely disagree!

Yea, you're a 2hr slog from me! Still closer than my current client who's nearly 4 feckin hours away..... the joy...... "Have tools, will travel, lol". Had a member from MK contact me to go change a boiler for him, and he'd had the same trouble, waiting over a year for anyone to tell him "no", or just not reply at all..... My mate and I did it over a long weekend, happy days! There are many different trays / formers out there for different situations, just showed you a random grab to see if you can identify if similar was installed (by looking through the hidden trap in the downstairs ceiling) eg to confirm if they had actually fitted a wet room former, or not. If the floor had been prepped properly for tiling, the tiles would have been higher, or at least the same height as the carpet + underlay. To hear they're lower means the floor is doomed to eventual, total failure. I've seen high-end showrooms recommend fitters, who then switch their phones off, and I then get asked to go back to do warranty work / deal with complaints etc; then I give the customers the good news, that the lot needs to come up and be done 'properly'. Always goes down like a lead balloon. There is no adhesive that will allow you to stick tiles directly to a subfloor, not even 2-part super-flexible stuff, but they could have at least used a decoupling membrane such as Ditra mat. Is the trap in the downstairs ceiling still accessible for some pics?

If it’s for clothing then I just stick laminate flooring to the walls and it works well / looks neat / never needs painting ever again. 👌

I added a 3rd attenuator to that job, as the client wanted “graveyard in Gravenhill” levels of shhhhh! at night. Then foam duct defo helps out, but I’m now being ‘directed’ towards spiral galv rigid ducting against my will….. I’ll do one and see if it passes muster, if not I’ll be reverting back to foam.

A LOT of that goes on. Just crazy. 2 roofers (father and son) refused to go up on the roof until they’d had “breakfast”.

High opacity paint (specifically designed for new plaster) can be pole sanded with relative ease. I always say to start with a good obliteration, so maybe 2 coats sprayed or 3-4 coats by roller, and then pole sand it back. Then coat again to cover the bits of plaster that breaks through, on the high points, and examine the wall again (in areas where it matters) and this will yield great results off the bat without getting the filler out. You use the HO paint as a surface filler, and it’s quite chalky, which gets you to the pint where you can see if filler is actually necessary. Beware aggressive sanding methods, as they’ll send you backwards not forwards, gouging and troughing the surface making it worse than when you started. Watched a guy in one job in Gravenhill apply filler, then sand it all back off, to then sat (expletive deleted) and apply more filer, which he then sanded back off…. then (expletive deleted) again and then more filler. And repeat. Just simply couldn’t comprehend that it needed very light filling, and even lighter sanding.

Agreed. That’s why I keep tempting the best one I’ve seen in ages to come away to work on my jobs. He’s worked for other members here, about to do another shortly (EWI + thin coat rendering, then dot & dabbing and skimming the interior for us). When you see a methodical, conscientious plasterer at work you soon realise it takes time, experience, patience, and a lot of GAF. Without the latter, no trade will shine. I’ve watched ‘my’ chap stop / start the plastering on ceilings, and even gallery-height walls / stairwells (in accordance with temporary stairs out / final stairs in etc), and you’d struggle to tell that this happened, and that’s before the decorators had his crack at it. I met one plasterer down in Dorset a few years back and I offered him double his day rate to come away to do another clients new build house for me, and he just smiled and shook his head. He was drowning in work at home, purely from reputation. His work was probably the best I’ve ever seen. These people are still out there, but none are young. Look hard peeps, as the walls are the things you’re left staring at for a bloody long time! Too many of the “that’s good enough” posse, or others who say they can plaster but it’s not their trade or 1st profession. A very good DECORATOR (not painter) is another thing people just fail to recognise the importance of. These can be the difference between good and excellent, for not much more investment. Excellent plastering can be slaughtered by a poor painter. Choose these two trades well folks.

They haven’t loaded up the joints first, not even an attempt here afaic. Thos was (is) screaming out for another set over the existing. It looks like it was attempted in one heavy set tbh.

Post a pic please.

I've seen better rendering outside ffs. That's total dogshit.