Nickfromwales

FYI, those types of valves I rarely fit on heating systems unless I’ve specifically ordered full bore. Use hundreds on potable water ( mains pressurised systems not gravity ) as on pumped or gravity there should be little or no resistance. But, if the heating was working before, it should work after too, so a bit stranger. The pump you changed out, that was a different head pump 25 x vs 15/60 ( 60 denotes 6m head ) so I doubt the replacement pump is up fit much as it’s an UFH circulator and knows it will never be asked to pump one up one down etc. Google the spec as the pics are blurry.

If that’s a 22mm valve, then maybe a regular bore as full bore tend to be ‘fatter’ at the valve body ( usually wider than the nuts on the end ). That appears to be about the same ? I’ll dig one out of the van tomorrow to have a comparison.

If the pipe failed anywhere they’d look to point the finger of blame anywhere. Being sure the Hepworth insets fully seat and seal into an alien manifold is another consideration. I won’t be mixing and matching for anybody if I am going to be liable for a catastrophic failure. Water causes a LOT of damage, and that’s if you’re home to stop it. If not, it’s humping out until you discover it. Save a couple of hundred quid elsewhere.......?

https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/hep2o-brass-manifolds-c661/hep2o-four-port-valved-manifold-15-tm-tf-fp-p21691 Remember you can’t mix JG Speedfit manifolds with Hepworth pipe. Has to be like for like for manufacturers warranty to remain intact.

What fittings?

Just a Friday one where the sweat shop orphan missed it.

It’s a Rolls Royce bit of kit with all the stuff you’d have to fit externally all set into one unit. What more could anyone possibly want? The isolation valve in question is a pump isolation valve so you don’t have to drain down / get air locks when you change the pump. Jeeeez......tough crowd ?

Really? If an installer doesn’t check all in line flow valves are open then that’s now the fault of a bit of kit is it? No, it’s not. ?? Not checking pump / gate valves are open is 1st year apprentice error. I’ve not had one yet which has caused any issues.

What’s the point if no UFH? OP also states a disability, and an already poured slab, so raising the threshold may be an issue?

FYI, @Ricardo64, you do not have enough floor insulation to even think about UFH You'd need about 140mm minimum of slab insulation ( on top of the slab you have now ) to get an efficient system. That is said with your comment about heating this 24/7, as energy efficiency will be of paramount importance here. You can use the wifi options on the air con units to "set back" the temps overnight, eg when unoccupied you can set it to a minimum of say 17oC and then set it to 20.5oC for occupancy. I REALLY hope you are putting a large timber section in the roof ( at least 150mm ) so you can stuff it full of rockwool insulation, and the walls need to be minimum 120mm, rockwool again, and then ( ideally ) an insulated plasterboard used throughout internally to keep the heat requirement down? £2k is a bloody tight budget to do the whole thing?? You can just fit the air con units ( heating AND cooling with those btw ) in a poorly insulated building if you simply do not have the budget, and they will work. You'll just have to pay the increased electricity bills for not having insulated sufficiently. The air con unit should heat for the equivalent cost of burning gas, if installed in the correct circumstances.

Whoa there fella!! Ground source for a garden room is a little OTT Change of £500 Link Change of £900 Link So +1 to @ProDave. Don't fit any screed, just put EPS 100 down and finish it 44mm short of your floor covering. Then lay 2 layers of 22mm P5 T&G boards on top of the insulation and that's you done and dusted I use that method for garage conversions mostly, and with excellent results. Don't forget the DPM!

Hot manifold adjacent to the water heater is best practice, and implementation of an HRC ( hot return circuit ) is always gauged on the dwelling. It depends on how far away your basin and sink taps are from the manifold tbh. You could shift the hpt manifold to a strategic centralised location and just have the ( HRC ) running between the UVC and the manifold and then leave as is.. Two current jobs for eg's; HRC to hot manifold at the hot water device, kitchen sink as last point of draw off on the manifold to promote flow across the whole manifold ( pre-heat ), HRC pump only pulling back from the kitchen sink therefore the whole hot manifold is warmed routinely hugely reducing waiting times at the other reasonably close outlets. Timer to be fitted for the HRC pump so that operation is in line with activity / occupancy.. HRC to hot manifold at the hot water device, HRC pump pulling back from the 2 upstairs bathrooms ( wash hand basins only ), manifold 'warmed' / 'pre-heated' as above, micro-PIR's to be fitted under each of the 2 wall-hung vanity units to trigger the HRC pump. Same PIR's to be used to also bring on ( automatically ) the night-time 'pee lights' under the vanity. Manual lighting circuit will be set to bring pee & other low-level lights on constantly for chilling in the bath ( so no overhead spots need to be on, and no disco lights from the PIR ). Timer to isolate pee lights during daylight hours if necessary. All depends on the layout of the house, so if you add distances to the basins / sinks from the UVC I can recommend something for you.

@Jeremy Harris fitted a neon indicator to his and was told ( iirc ) that it was responsible for the PCB blowing, and he was warmed off doing anything similar again or his warranty would be void....... The new UniQ’s have inboard electronics with a wealth of 4 x LED’s to show various guestimates. Think they’re more for silencing the crowd vs giving accurate data tbh.

I’ll learn you good, just you wait and see ?

Circulation or lack of it will be down to air locks most prob. Single pope is a da k of ? on a good day. Putting a cold mains on drain offs and firing short sharp 2-pints-at-a-time blasts of water in under pressure may help shift things a bit. The pump ‘hunting’ is knackered. That’s all the good news I can give you for today. At least until I’m pissed later and then I’ll let rip ?????

Don’t forget the big plastic storage tank that you’ll need in the attic to give you any kind of “reasonable” hot water pressure. Then the grief of getting mixer taps / showers etc that can deal with mixed ( unbalanced ) hot and cold supplies........ Then adding noisy pumps and complex plumbing arrangements to suit if you want a nice powerful shower....... C’mon grandad, it’s almost 2021!! ?

Are you putting flux on the solder as well as the pipe and fittings? With 28mm it’s good to re-introduce flux during the soldering of the joint. And yes, I could have told you that a few days ago, but I thought you were all trained up on soldering after the bathroom / other plumbing. ?

Perfect time to fit the new radiator ?

So you'll be looking at a 900 x 600 K1 ( aka single ) and fitting some oyster tails or an insert DOC to get the gap made up. £39 quid. Get in the car. rad valve drain off

Don’t know tbh. I just go and buy a radiator at that stage. Cheap enough to not f*** about. ? Link £60 for a P+, but you’ll prob be ok with a single convector. £45 or so prob. How much is your time and that kit worth ? And that’s if it works and the rad isn’t rotten out at the point where you drill.

Order a couple of each to get started and see which is the one with the plasterboard best bonded onto the PIR. I’ve had some where the two have separated and that’s bloody annoying. Storing these perfectly flat is paramount, and again some boards have arrived with a cup in them from being stored poorly, on a knackered pallet etc, and I’ve had to store them the other way around to retrain the board to be flat. Quality of the board is one thing, but discipline of the supplier is another key consideration.

Prob not at this time. It’s most prob the input T connector that is blocked, hence the long fill time. Prob a hole in the middle of the crud the size of a knitting needle. That’s a common problem with F&E and I often back fill with a hosepipe with a lad up the attic watching for levels in the header tank. If you can find that T, better to cut it out tbh but I wouldn’t worry about that until you drain down next.

I’m switching my phone off.........

Probably the tee connection where the F&E connects is crudded up. Quicker to backfill through a drain off but without making the F&E tank overflow!!

Snug.....