Nickfromwales

Yikes 😟 If the thermostat is a design feature to prevent the heater itself from ever getting above a certain safe operating temperature, then 🔥. 👎. No bueno.

And the cause of a lot of house fires. Just put a desk fan in the room to ‘waft’ the heated air about the room and that’ll work quite effectively, but as said just get 2 small heaters vs one just overheating the local area to it. FYI I use 2x £19.99 fan heaters in my office which can switch between 1 or 2kW and have stats on board. Almost instant heat, only on when needed, and fill a decent volume of air / space. I doubt you’ll find such a heater, as you ask for, as they’d just be dangerous to use. I wouldn’t want one in my house. Nearest thing would be an infrared bathroom heater which is fixed and up & away from people and combustible things. LINK

I used to use smoke pellets and matches to test gas fires etc, so these may be good for DIY blower testing. Non toxic. https://www.toolstation.com/arctic-hayes-smoke-pellets/p73709?store=W8&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcW28_oiBQC-P6TC6ImMppCpz&gclid=CjwKCAiAkc28BhB0EiwAM001TRkm8DqzJjYkdSY0aHk5-WsPiZPc7NWyw9j4RvGd5BcssGMWnV9-rhoCrW0QAvD_BwE

My bad, sorry

That’s like asking how can I go for loads of cost and effort for nothing? Why build airtight then fill it with natural or mechanical ventilation to defeat the efforts and increase the heating requirements….

Yup. Seen it (and have installed it under orders) and I wouldn’t ever entertain bringing such grotty water into my toilets……and never in a million years into my washing machine. WC cisterns go black, even with 3-state filtration, so you’d need to factor in a good UV sterilisation setup to get me to even fill a toilet with it. Fine for watering the garden, but when you need to water the garden the tanks bone dry because there’s no chuffing rain….and when rains abundant you don’t need to water the garden.🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Go figure. Total waste of time and money afaic, and I’d recommend using that for PV / battery or just beer without a second thought. Oh, and as soon as the pump snuffs it your payback year goes to triple digits, and then the second pump will eventually need to be replaced, and so on. Judy cheaper to buy the water when you actually do the maths, after buying the system, installing it, and the constant maintenance & repairs. Oh, and in the summer when the rain buggers off it’s then electro-mechanically filled by the cold mains lol. Then you pay to pump it into the toilets. “Seriously?” 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Only in a house without MVHR

Have you not considered BeamShield or other insulation block system vs concrete blocks? Light, huge improvement over cold blocks, and a 1 man fit for DIY. Doubt I’d ever do a block and beam floor any other way, just seems madness to make an awfully cold foundation and then pay to cover it with insulation to mitigate

Cost for one, ugly as shit for another, lol.

Compression stuff is very good tbh. Fire away. Just have a reality check about where these go and if you’re ever going to actually dismantle them, ever, and if not then go for solvent weld (permanent) there and only fit compression where you think it’s a possibility that you’ll need to fettle retrospectively.

Push fit waste fittings are the last thing I’d use. Solvent weld is bombproof. Try a few test joints with solvent weld, as it goes off in seconds and offers no room for ‘tweaking’ , eg if you’re a novice and have not done this type of plumbing work before.

Respectfully, this doesn’t sound like a small job unless it’s 1x door and 2x windows? How many units in total need to be removed and replaced?

Yup, +1. I've done plenty of these types of installs and with exactly the methodology described by the OP, never an issue. IMO the underlaying concrete (that most builders knee-jerk to without any thought) is a waste of money. This is absolutely reliant on the preparation works and that having been done meticulously without divots or voids in the sub ground / earth. Last one I did was 200mm of PIR then 85mm or so of dry screed with 16mm UFH pipes stapled to the insulation. I don't really bother with the top 'membrane' and I've never had any issues. I once had to do an insurance job where I had to take an Everest conservatory floor up (tiles were cracking and floor screed caving in) and they had done this methodology, just very poorly prepped and loads of undulation in the ground prep. The screed was laid directly onto the PIR and all that happened was the foil had tarnished a little, over 5 years or so. I'd only go with the upper membrane if going for a true liquid screed.

@craig may be able to help with some names etc? He's a BH 'trusted member'

@craig about these days?

Can you clarify, are you needing a fitter to remove all the already installed units and then install the replacements (and for the new team to first of all survey and place an order for the replacements)? Please give as much detail as you can

Great, no probs For any of the runs off 110mm I would defo use 50mm until at the room or appliance, and then reduce down when it is above ground / in wall / exposed etc where you can then get to it. I never bury 40/32mm pipework, unless its the very short bit under a shower trap and that's a factory fitting which won't take 50mm directly. Use solvent weld PVC vs push-fit too, as they aren't reliable IMHO. If the kitchen sink drops less than 1300mm before going horizontally to the second drop, then to 110, then you'll probably not need an AAV at the kitchen sink, but I think I'd put one in for Justin (Justin Case) to be belt & braces. If you've an appliance (dishwasher or washing machine) in the kitchen then don't connect via the sink trap appliance connector as that's noisy to the room when pumping out. Fit an appliance upstand instead, tee'd into the kitchen sink waste pipework eg after the sink trap. Much better job. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-washing-machine-trap-white-40mm/18640?tc=ET2&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7se8BhCAARIsAKnF3rwrmETQqq319b3N-BPY_d3gqzuT1HRwstHyu0gi6IZk5EPTp69VC6kaAvObEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds One for each appliance.

Have you asked the BCO to attend to get input from them? In certain adverse conditions they will allow a deviation from “written law” and allow you to then demonstrate that it functions well / is reliable in operation, and then sign you off. What is in the bible is often difficult to achieve (to the letter) in real life and in every situation, especially if it’s a retro-fit / alteration. Speak to them and get their input on what will / won’t be acceptable.

A bucket trowel is my weapon of choice, plus also a gauger for smaller areas that require a bit of control.

Hi. If the invert, the lowest point of the outlet of the WC and the lowest point of the horizontal foul pipe discharging to the sewers is less than 1300mm then you won’t have any issue whatsoever. The only way water gets sucked out of traps is by the flush water etc dropping a full storey of a building, vertically, and then there is a vacuum created behind it due to velocity. That’s when you need an air admittance valve above it to compensate for / neutralise the vacuum. Looking at your pic you have less than 1000mm invert(?) so the flushed water will simply not be travelling fast enough or for long enough a drop to create any vacuum. The only problem I see is with the pipe rising to a kitchen sink which will defo need an air admittance valve at its highest point (and where it is accessible), and I would do that run in 50mm pipe and fit a 50mm AAV vs 40mm (due to food waste & solids etc). Be sure to use bends not elbows on that pipework run too, so that run can be retrospectively ‘rodded’ with ease if a blockage ever occurs. Is that run more than 3000mm?

10 - 4, rubber duck

Any reputable cement board. How will you be fixing them to the structure?

Maybe the extra heater is a little OTT? Would it not be ok to just use the Sunamp / Thermino, and IF it snuffs it again you just replace it with an UVC and be done with it? That’s what a member on here did, eventually, when he realised he was seeing a SA repair & replacement engineer more often than he was seeing his wife…..

Excuse me, there's WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more to it than that. I'll go google it now, gimme 5...

Defo. Have you removed it inside & out? I'd recommend getting up there and seeing if it is 100% gone.