Nickfromwales

@Alan Ambrose, you can click and select text, and then hit the quote selection tab to quote other members posts Typing the @ symbol followed by the first letters of a username will allow you to tag a member (as I have done with your username here, with it now in a blue bubble).

Where’s the mower and the tins of creosote?

I had an issue like this a while back with a Worcester Bosch combi, did my head in finding the fault, but eventually I just set my ‘magic’ electric test pen on the wire supplying 230v to the integral pump and hey presto…..intermittent fault on the PCB. The relay that powered the pump was failing, but had not failed fully, so it was giving a on/off output and the pump was starting and stopping in a random pattern (indicated by the led light in the test pen going on and off which was giving me a visual confirmation). It was very hard to find this fault tbh as for some strange reason the pump was nowhere near as sporadic in operation when servicing DHW, but these things are sent to try us! My assumption was that it was easier (less current draw through the relay) to pump locally to the PHE than it was to pump to 10 rads, therefore the failing relay was more ‘reliable’ on DHW and less when running heating. Changed the PCB and problem solved. Time, labour and parts costs to fix an old Biasi is a wasted investment imho, sorry, and if you now have to change the PCB to eliminate that then you’ve forked out a lot of dosh on an old boiler. Sadly this sounds like an on board control issue, bearing in mind I’m not there to test and trial it so is my best guess, so likely the PCB would need to be changed so it can be ruled out. This could also be the same issue caused by the relay operating the gas valve, or the gas valve itself. It could also be the air switch on the fan, or the fan itself, or either of those relays…….. My advice on the other thread was to not put good money after bad, and I’m sticking with that advice. Abandon this boiler and fit a nice, quality brand, new one, possibly you may get some help or a grant depending on your circumstances. Call citizens advice to rake through all the schemes out there and see if you can get any help towards this. I shudder to think what you’ve spent so far….and you probably have changed all the parts except the one(s) that’s broken….

This is easy to execute, but not the best for your ground conditions maybe; you may have to put down much deeper strip foundations. +1

I got drafted in by a client to assist with a foundation solution, and when I say 11th hour...I mean "5 to midnight" shitfest. For simplicity, and availability of answers and products for a super-fast turnaround, I did exactly what you did. Excellent results tbh, and still a very admirable solution for a foundation (with a Nudura ICF structure atop). Apart from labour, a very cost-effective route tbf.

Not EPS? I can't recall.

My advice there would have been "keep looking"

Give it time, let it soak in here for a bit.

Yes, lol, I'll get my coat and leave now

Not my Uncle Bert and second cousin Harold? How could you???

+1 Is the question on everyone's lips. Would be good to scrutinise this in a working test environment before I felt brave enough to spend a clients money on it.

Ok. My reference to the pipe insulation was not about the exposed pipework, but only regarding what you will seal and foam to the finished wall depth. You want this airtight, so the ends of any sunken pipe insulation cannot be on show when the foam / sealing-up work is done. You'd complete this task, and THEN insulate the exposed pipework in the garage, afterwards. When you have finished this particular task, you should be then looking at foam and bare pipes only. Insulating the exposed pipes in a space outside the house "thermal envelope", afterwards, is obviously necessary and wise. As a suitable punishment for not having done this yet, you must now buy each Buildhub member a beer. Sadly, as you've left this for some time, we're now at north of 20k members. 💶Ouch 🍻

Yup, that kind of minute detail will get you in the ground a lot sooner lol.

Ah, OK. Ditch the pipe insulation and "squirt away!". Doesn't look like you'd get much on so pointless.

There are companies out there who can cosmetically alter the bricks to match existing. Often used on extension or alterations such as these

Hi. Is the system working atm, and can you upload pics of the 2nd manifold please? First issue is they have plumbed the manifold arrangements upside down, as the pump should not be facing down and the blending valve should be below it. Looks like they just tossed away the instruction book and just bolted it together as they saw 'fit'.... The flow gauges go on the flow rail, which they have at the bottom, which is wrong, but the issue is to rectify this it all needs swapping around the right way and then the flow and return pipework reconfigured accordingly. About a day per setup should suffice. I'd recommend doing this when the weather is nice, and when the manifold rails are off and the loops open ended, you can then flush these out with cold mains water for free. The black crud (ferrous oxide aka 'rust') will not clean off very well, but don't be too panicked as the water is probably quite clean and the black coating on the flow gauges makes it look like the water is like engine oil; I'd bet it isn't So, is this actually working atm, eg non emergency 'shituation'?

20mm internal overhang in a thermally broken frame is fine imho.

My get out of jail card there, these days, is to line the door and window reveals with Marmox boards instead of plasterboard. Insulated plasterboard is quite a pig to work with when you have to cut around the metal fixings plates, especially when it's long thin lengths! Marmox is impervious to water / moisture ingress, insulates, and the grey coating will take a coat of plaster directly so no need to plasterboard over it. Downside is it will take less of a 'hit' from a point impact, vs plasterboard + skim, but if you have a good spread who has put 2 sets on then you should be fine with Marmox + skim + paint. You can easily router out the rear of the Marmox, nowhere near as messy as plasterboard, and it can be bonded on vs screws very successfully.

Slide some thin wall pipe insulation over the pipes first, then foam the gaps afterwards. Finish the insulation maybe 10-20mm inside the wall so the foam can be 'around' the end of the pipe vs around the pipe insulation as air will travel in the gap between the pipe and the insulation Other than that, carry on 👍 You may find it easier to do if you attach a 400mm piece of 10/12mm water pipe to the end of the foam gun, with lots of electrical tape wound VERY tight, to extend the gun away from the group of pipes That'll allow you to inject the foam quite deep into the cavity. I'd spray some water from a hand pump spray bottle into the voids to assist the foam to expand much better and be void of hollows etc.

Wouldn't matter if a membrane is detailed properly below it?

No probs there then as the control group doesn't have a NRV. Curiouser and curiouser

My bad, just zoomed in on a better screen. Downstream 🫡.

It looks like it’s teed into the rising main?

Upstream, not downstream

Ah! It’s a dark pic, but I think the issue is that the EV has mistakenly been teed off before the PRedV / control group. @Mattg4321, can you take a better pic or confirm if that’s the case? If so, then we’ve got the answer methinks. The EV should be tapped in by removing the black plastic plug on the rear of the control group, ideally.