Nickfromwales

@craig?

Get rid of the electric shower, it’s a choice you’ll live to regret. UVC will have an electric immersion for fail-safe hot water. Thermoststic mixer showers will speed up or slow down, when other outlets are opened when showering, but the cartridges will balance the flow to keep the temp stable. In the same circumstances, an electric shower will just slow down, go red hot, and then abruptly shut off and deliver cold water (unless it’s a 7.5kw one which I can piss faster then).

The max you can draw is 100a, before the supply head fuse would ‘blow’ (it’ll take a lot more than 100a before it blows though). Your 100a fuse protects the meter / DNO equipment, plus also limits your max possible draw on the network (grid). Each individual switch fuse after the Henley’s de-rates the 100a that would otherwise be available to each of the 4 legs. Because you have 4 satellite fuse boards (CU) that are >3m away from the supply fuse you must limit the liability of each of the cables feeding each of the CU’s, eg in the event that a cable becomes mechanically damaged, or if any CU takes too much juice and would risk blowing the 100a fuse. You cannot have such a huge amount of power (current capacity) in a cable traversing a domestic dwelling. Just too risky. This is why the head / 100a fuse / meter are always on an outside / external wall or fed from a cable riding from the ground immediately under them. None of that has true earth protection, so can only ‘blow’ with over current or a catastrophic short circuit (mechanical damage directly linking live to neutral). Anything less than a direct short results in a spectacular and worryingly long lasting fireworks display as the fault arcs itself into infinity, literally. In that event you soon realise just how much raw power is available from that 100a fuse !! De-rating allows each of the 4 legs to all be managed in terms of the max current carrying capacity vs the distance of the cable going from each switch fuse to each CU, and caps the max amount of current each can draw in the event of a failure. If one CU was drawing 80a and the other three say 40a a piece then the main fuse would blow (rupture), and then you’d go blame the designer as it then should not have got past initial feasibility. Each leg must have its own isolation and lower rated fuse, as you are not allowed to consider the DNO fuse as your primary means of protection.

PICS PEOPLE!!!!! Let's see the goodies!!

You defo don't need a slip coupler, just a regular push fit (double socket) straight coupler. When you start gluing stuff it becomes very unforgiving, very quickly. The pipe coming up isn't perfectly plumb you say, so the double socket coupler will also give some wiggle room. Just cut that existing pipe about 50mm above FFL and chamfer the end, and then fit the coupler to it (use some lubricant, Fairy liquid is fine, (other washing up liquids are available)) and then insert the Geberit reducer. Reinstall the frame at the height you want, and then measure the amount to cut off the angled pan connector. Then remove the frame again. Chamfer the cut end and make sure to de-burr it; it's a much softer plastic so leaves a horrible burr internally from being cut. Cut about 15mm more than is needed so the pan connector can be pushed down, out of the way of the frame clip when reinstalling the frame for the final time, and then you just lift it up into the frame clip and push on the retaining clip and away to go.

May be an issue if the DHW cylinder coil cannot cope with the amount of heat / flow from the T-Rex of a heat pump that is installed here. It may need the buffer for DHW too?

with a plinth or without? With gaps at the rear or without? Most don't like to install heated floors under the plinth space where foodstuff is stored, generally frowned upon in anything other than a Passiv Haus where the slab temps are 'almost cool' anyway.

Feck. If it’s a kitchen then you’ll have far less heated floor area so far less output. Have you looked at hydronic plinth heaters? These bolster smaller radiators when you need a bit more oomph. Also, consider electric under tile heating for a bit of comfort, but NOT for use 24/7. I assume you say HUGE rads because it’s a heat pump? Is the heat pump already installed?

👆?

Seems a lot of ball ache for such a small area (don’t shout, just saying ).

Remember that the airflow rate will be quite high for cooling, think of every hotel you’ve stayed in, so audibility will be something you won’t obliterate.

Eh? For tiles THEY broke??!? “Get F*****D would be my reply to that. Just “no”, with no further discussion. They have a legal obligation afaik regarding warranty. I'm not so sure they can just unplug that, but it may be that their standard (obligatory) 90 days is all they have to provide, and the sales patter extended that ‘courtesy’ by 9 months. TBH I doubt these lot would come back and honour it anyways so just write that off imho. Any decent sparky will come and do an EHIC(?) so you’d be covered by that via 3rd party sparky. Pay the £3k you owe, withhold the £2k, which I think is (more than) fair and pragmatic, plus demonstrates you wish to resolve ‘amicably’. They may just go and crawl back under their stone then and leave sleeping dogs lay.

The airflow would be reversed to what you’ve shown here? Cooled air is always sent out high?

I knew if I left the worm on the hook long enough I’d get a bite lol.

It’ll feck your MVHR flow up quite a bit? You’re suppose to recirculate the air in the room, boss Last one I did this on I installed 2x 92mm Ubbink radial runs to letterbox sized extract points (22x 225mm) with one in each far corner of the room vs 100% of the airflow at the one vent (for sound mostly, but also for more even flow of the cooled air throughout the room). The bedrooms with direct cooling had a communal attic space with vaulted ceilings, so the idea was to have the FCU grille in the vertical wall direct off the FCU, flow the air in at the top and let it blanket down, across the whole bedroom, and then exit via the 2x letterbox grilles (I installed these at socket height to blend in a bit). Using a transfer grille in the landing outside of the bedrooms could see air from bathrooms being pulled towards this, with positive air being forced out of the MVHR inlet. Not. A great idea to not have these properly recirculate, and I wouldn’t do this if it was my own job. Maybe create a pelmet, and use that as the hidden extract point? Without being there it’s a bit sketchy to advise obvs…

Is the frame loose, or now fixed in place?

That’s the kind of crazy I always did, so you’re in good company lol. “Continue”

Ask the regimental electricians and you’ll get told……..”LAMPS!” lol.

Prob 300 if double boarding? Not sure what weight the RB can handle?

Why are you double boarding? Is this for fire resistance? If not, just fit 1x 15mm. If 2x 12.5 then you’ll defo need to be at 400mm oc because of the weight alone.

Cheers. 2.5 would be huge, prob 1.0 or 1.5? OK, my fears of them being 12v is now quashed, so the extra cable run may out of the window (for dealing with the voltage drop) but…… Next thing is, I have a pair of LEDs in my living room, wall wash, and these also the same thing; the second one is slowest to come on but is always the first lamp to blow. I have a Varilight dimmer (from TLC Direct iirc) and the dimmer AND lamps are both ‘dimmable’. If I put a switch on in place of the dimmer, problem goes away. Can you try this please? Turn off the power, put both wires in the switch into a connector block, then have someone else put the power back on / off and report the results plz. Mine don’t ‘blow’ as quickly as yours do but you’ve got a longer circuit.

Adds a good bit to acoustics to do this, but surprisingly few people will pay the extra few £’s to ‘upgrade’. Seems madness as they’re paying to time and materials anyways, so why not do the ceilings in something that makes the house quieter / nicer to be in? 🤷‍♂️.

🙄🤐

You simply refuse to pay anything with the reason being that the job is incomplete due to defects in their workmanship. That’s it. Separate the Scaff claim, that would get binned in the first 60 seconds. Part out the original contract and pursue that uniquely. They sound as thick as 2 short planks tbh, so I doubt they’ve sought 3rd party legal council yet; if they had then they’d have been told that they’re Donald Duck’d.

I’ve a few letters after me. Makes for meticulous workmanship but difficult to sell or value…..