Nickfromwales

@Super_Paulie yup. 👍

If that’s still an option would get you better results. And you could fit a much bigger acc’r.

Yea, that’s doable. More about adding more capacity tbh.

That's when nerves like mine don't match the rock-steady hands of a decorator. My mate paints straight lines and cuts-in like a machine.....so doesn't need to mask. They say if you can piss you can paint, but there is a HUGE difference between applying paint, and actually decorating a house; my mates roller just doesn't leave a single bit of evidence when he's gliding it around the room. Defo a skill that few appreciate (or want to pay for) sadly.

Might benefit from an accumulator in the house?

Supply and fit of the insulation prob more towards £1500 with labour? So screed more like £3500? Don't forget your builder will be putting OH+P costs on top of these works.

LPG for cooking and oil > DHW for a mixer shower? Ah, so you're the other end of the scale, and have very minimal 3ph requirements then?

Great progress. You'll soon use the ducts up so don't worry there. Better to be looking at a duct, than wishing you had one. Another 4' down and you'd have had a basement lol.

If you don't average higher than the 80, and peak at 100/110, the HRC fuses will just run close to molten and cope with peak demand. It's only if you know you will have sustained 3x100a consumption, which is huge, does this become a problem. I expect the 3x 80a would be more than ample for most things? Welding sets prob worst, and shunt resistance from compressors etc will cause spikes, but then settle down when constant. Welding is in sporadic bursts so again maybe not such a problem.

It's not that big lol. And if you set the pipework to the back of the unit you'll only lose a little bit of shelf space tbh.

https://www.straight2site.co.uk//product-page/concrete-square-bar-40-n-mm2?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21371467120&gbraid=0AAAAACnrRZI6MxgdJrFmZpUsBw3fesM2h&gclid=CjwKCAjwmenCBhA4EiwAtVjzmk_Gh5z3j5lVqm_ZM9uuHCJY7QzYfCwfTpKUMpFuGDo5eeaPYATVBhoCHBcQAvD_BwE

Kids bounce a fair bit, remember when we used to be one? 7' drop out of a tree was not enough to deter me from attempt #2, the good old days lol.

It's what we do. Sleep now, we attack at dawn.

You sir, have fine taste in la musica! "By Jove, I think he has it!". Enjoy!

Speak to one of the reps, as when I needed Ardex A35 for a quick drying screed they (Ardex rep) were super-helpful.

At this point you'd just stick with a single unit, a "combination trap".

So, where the pipe enters the unit you have your T, and then carry on up to the sink bottle trap. You use the other branch of the T to connect a WM upstand to, ensuring it is to the side of the bowl of the sink and ends as high up as is possible.

Ok. When you say would this suffice, the problem is what is going where here? The adaptor you show is supposed to go on top of the trap and connect to the waste outlet of the sink, hence you will get "the gurgle".

Won't somebody PLEASE think of the children lol Just look for the soft impact rubber matting panels that do not need maintenance and stop noggins from a-floggins.

@Pocster one for you laddo

No. Not at all.

The principal issue is having the appliance connect downstream of the sink trap. Just buy a regular 40mm compression T and insert the bit I linked to, on the horizontal pipework, immediately off the sink trap. Use the appliance hose to create your trap, as without the fall and a pipe at the bottom of the cabinet you cannot get the upstand / trap in this picture. Possibly use a waterless HepVo trap between the T and the adaptor, but something needs to stop back flow of stench from a soil stack into the appliance; if this pipework is open-ended and terminates at an external gulley then there is no 'stench' to speak of, so just the draught to deal with then.

Traps do not create a source of air intake, an air admittance valve (AAV) does that A trap captures water to use to separate the stinky air from the foul pipework from the room air; you don't want stench from the stench pipe. Air admittance is required when falling water drops like 8' for a storey of a house, at 110mm, but absolutely zero requirement for that at a WM upstand. For eg, if you have a bungalow and the invert (the distance discharged water falls from output to horizontal) is <1300mm then even for a flushing WC there is no requirement for air admittance. For this instance the water dropping 600-700mm max from the upstand will never attract a vacuum so will never need any air admittance, so the focus here should be on reducing or eliminating the noise from the water entering the upstand, and DEFO to avoid the horrid gurgling water noise created by a combination sink water arrangement. It's 2025 folks......there's a better way.

You're defo having some sort of episode....been going on for years here lol.