Nickfromwales

Doorway to house will need the opening to be FR. Assuming FR door and lining will be installed here, with the lining bridging the cavity?

?

I’d prob just level and lay with the adhesive, if the bumps aren’t >5mm. Other than that you’re on the right track. If the tiles are dark and get a lot of sunlight you may need to put one expansion gap in across, to divide the longest length.

I think this is the best collaboration tbh, as I would have a very ‘bloke’ looking house otherwise.

That’ll have to be made fire rated with FR PB if the joint is internal to the garage, as there’s a habitable space above it? Layer of FR PB over the DPC or intumescent mastic there? @ruggers, if there’s a specific side/rear doorway out of the garage it’ll need the same FR attention to that opening too.

...........absolutely the correct amount of......... 👌

I tried jacking a floor up like this before, and it was like fighting against dark matter. After decades and decades of progressive deflection, you just cannot fight natural timbers et-al back into shape over a long weekend. Give it up IMHO. Furr the tops of the joists and pack & level the ceiling and re-board. Sistering the joists is my favoured method of levelling up a 1st floor bathroom floor before installing a new wet-room / level floor for tiling etc, and that is usually the best option. If the floor is say 50mm out end to end, I will sister the high end with the new timber 25mm down, and glue and screw the joists together to act as one, and then electric plane the original timber down to meet the new. Moving one end to take up the 50mm.......not whilst I have a hole in my box of holes.

A pic would really help. We'd need to see where water was supposed to head so it can discharge into the downpipes. If it all goes wrong I'm only 20 mins from you so can drop some wellies off

Do you have to cut solid timber joists or are there posi-joists?

A non-issue. To be 1000% clear, I have only had to introduce a joint and bury it when the shit has hit the fan and there is zero other option. One example, on a PH raft concrete pour down in Doooorrrrrset the concrete pump truck failed, then did it's replacement. The willing machine driver then took the concrete from the trucks into the biggest bucket he had, and proceeded to lob it in vs admit defeat; legendary bit of GAF there for sure. Said tracked machine swung out, lost balance, and then punched the bucket down hard damaging 4 UFH pipes. Solution was to make a timber box to shutter 1m2 area around the damaged pipes and continue with the 'pour'. I then repaired the 4 pipes (so 8 straight coupling joints in total) and it's been there ever since (pressure tested on the day of the repair with cold mains pressure at4bar). There will be no "gunk", there would be no issue, just a pipe with a joint in it carrying fluid from one end to 'tother. These joints will cope with 10 bar and are WRAS approved; the only issue would be if a dick fitted them badly, the same with everything, everywhere.......

What he said....

No worries. Just scrape the joint and hoover out any loose debris / dust before filling it back in. This is just cosmetic tbh, and the crack from the doorway corner across is pretty much predictable. Zero drama here

The mesh doesn’t even need that tbh, and foam will do zilch here for strength afaic. Just use the joint/frame mastic and get it into the gap as best you practically can. DPC return faces should only leave a gap small enough to point these with mortar, clean back, and then top with mastic. The mastic will carry the damp proofing of that joint, from leaf to leaf, allowing the K rend system to fly over without any bridging.

Hi. That’s just a shrinkage crack in the screed, not structural as the structural subfloor will be below the insulation under the screed. Just buy a small 10kg bag of flexible tile adhesive and make it into a mix like soup. Pour that in, leave for an hour, then scrape flat with a metal decorators scraper. End of problem. Wet the joint before putting the adhesive in, so the porous suction of the screed doesn’t dry it out too quickly.

You need to see my guy in action then! He’s been screeding my jobs for over 25 years and it’s a dry S&C screed, with or without fibres, delivered to site the same day, and laid to within a couple of mm from one end of a building to the other. Paint it green and play snooker on it 2-3 days later. @BTC Builder, he’s from my neck of the woods but works nationwide. If you want his details for supply and lay, PM me. He can price it over the phone.

Should be dry by the time we finish discussing it here tbh lol. Move the box about, as I said, to gauge the readings at different locations.

Then tiling before xmas is a distinct possibility sir!

Which puts a surprising dent in the number of times your meter does "one revolution"; yes I know it's a red dot flashing these days..... Happy days.

How big an area?

Less gin and more tonic perhaps, lol.

😆

Very nice bit of plumbing squire 👌.

Agreed! Let's stay up and fight, it's Saturday night after all lol.

I'd just use regular DPC and then mastic it really well, then webbing and K-Rend or expanded metal and S&C render. I'd only use the foam type product if this was being left on show.