Temp

Yes, sorry you can't reclaim VAT on tool hire. However if you hire a groundwork man to dig trenches and he hires a machine his whole invoice to you should be zero rated. Not sure about scaffolding... I know you can't reclaim VAT if you buy or hire but what about hire and errect?

I've not see that document before. It does indeed say 50mm on page 21. It also suggests a second membrane is needed when fitting some types of insulation, presumably wool like insulation rather than rigid. Never seen that done.

There is servicing and servicing. The big companies that take a monthly fee almost never flush a system or check/change the corrosion inhibitor, they just service the boiler. They frequently claim they aren't allowed to go in the loft to tip inhibitor into the header tank on a ventilated rad system but it can be added via a rad bleed valve. Over time corrosion create sludge and then one autumn you turn it on for the first time in ages and you find some rads don't heat up. They rock up and either get the sludge moving or tell you you need a power flush cost £300 - £900. Some CH pumps even stir the system occasionally to try and prevent the sludge settling out in the summer but that's only going to delay problems. This is less of an issue with UFH as there are fewer metal parts to corrode but I still like to keep my system inhibitor at the right level. The thought of a blocked UFH pipe gives me the shivers. You can buy a corrosion inhibitor test kit for around £10 to see if there is any left in the system. If you need to add some its worth estimating the volume of water in the system when you drain it so you get the concentration right. Our system needs several bottles if F1. They say putting in too much isn't a problem though apart from the cost.

A vapour barrier below the insulation will also help reduce risk of interstitial condensation.

If its a breathable membrane you may not need top vents. See what the BCO says. They are recommended if you have tight fitting slates (rather than say hand made clay tiles) but this is to ventilate above the membrane rather than below it. The void under the membrane can also be reduced to 25mm just to allow the membrane to drape correctly.

One of your neighbours got an illegal booster perhaps?

Phone issues can be strange. We had three or four phones on Asda before they switched networks. After the switch one couldn't get a good signal. I guess that phone just didn't work as well on the new frequency.

If you have the height (propably not?) then put insulation at ceiling height rather than between rafters?

Looks like minor changes but without a circuit it's hard to tell. What's the temperature rating marked on the biggest capacitor new vs old? Are the new blue round things transient suppressors or ?

I think you should drain the heating system not just release the pressure. Unless there is a way to isolate the expansion vessel from the rads. If it needs draining put corrosion inhibitor back in afterwards (eg Fernox f1 or similar). What does @Prodave think? May need ptfe tape for the connection to the expansion vessel.

What's the thread between the hoop and the rod? For example Google "M6 stainless Steel standoff" finds hexagonal standoff. You can find them in other materials but not all are rated for outdoor use. Most are intended for mounting things like PCB. I would also ask the supplier of the guttering. I'm sure they must have something.

Depends what the surrounding houses are like. In an area where they are all in neat rows it will be a lot more Important. If you can find other houses in different orientations in the same road you can include photos or plans with your application in the Design and Access Statement. Sometimes it helps to provide a street view - an artists sketch drawing showing your house and those either side of it. Our Architect was good with pen and ink drawing and made ours look like it fitted in well. In reality trees, hedges and sloping ground mean you can't actually stand in one place and see that view. We spent a year trying to get approval for a house further back on our plot. They kept us moving bits around like that game you get in Christmas's crackers with squares you slide about. They were adamant it had to be built near the front which is narrow. In the end we discovered a letter they had sent the previous owner saying "a house further back on the plot might be better". We were furious at the waste of time and money.

@PXR5If not too late make sure there is a clause allowing sale to anyone if you can't find a local buyer after some period of time on the market. Your lender may also want to see the wording as occupancy restrictions affect the value.

Can anyone see the pics @Pudding posted? I just see a No Entry sign for sale this on this page. Other photos on other pages are OK. I'm on an Android tablet so I guess they could be a format it doesn't support?

I'm not sure if it's the same in Scotland but innEngkand Building Control only have 12 months to initiate any enforcement... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/applications/building-control-applications/building-control/building-regulations/failure-to-comply-with-the-building-regulations So too late them to initiate enforcement action. If you are confident allmis in order you could ask Building Control if they would do a final inspection and issue a warrant or completion certificate.

Tip for others If you are ever given a quote "Inc Vat" or "plus VAT" always request a new quote that reflects the zero rated status before accepting it. It's always easier to get this done before you've accepted it.

You might consider offering the UK company a "certificate". Theses are essentially a letter from you to the company certifying that their supply and fit is for a new dwelling that qualifies for zero rating. It should state that and give all your contact details, the site address and the planning reference number. Officially HMRC doesn't need a certificate (unless it's a charity building ?) but they can sometimes smooth problems like this. These certificates are mentioned in VAT708 and there is/was a template certificate as well but it needs a lot of editing. Several people on here have produced one.

https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat

Make sure at least £100 is paid by credit card.

The answer he got from hmrc depends on what information he gave them. If he missed some detail then he will get the wrong answer. I suggest you ask in writing on the HMRC VAT help forum. Make sure you tell them you are a self builder employing someone on a supply and fit basis and that the supplier is doing the importing. I agree with others. He should pay the VAT and reclaim it by deducting it when he makes his VAT return. He must zero rate the windows and installation to you because you cannot reclaim VAT paid in error. The only exception would be if you ordered the windows yourself from Poland with the "help" of the installer. Perhaps not consciously - check the small print in the contract. Is it all with supplier/installer or do you have a contract with the Polish manufacturer?

If it was a simple phone issue he would be contacting you to let you know. Write to him signed for and keep copy. Be careful what you write about him online until this is resolved.

Remember they have access to Google Streetview and satellite images.

Do they even need one? Many times just draining and refilling a few times is all that's needed. Remember to put some corrosion inhibitor in for the last fill. Corrosion products are what cause the blockages.

Well done!

I would fit boards to the long walls (3.5m) and run joists across the short way (2.5m). Think I'd probably use mini joist hangers to attach joists to the wall boards. No need to tie into the existing ceiling if they are large enough. That woukd also minimise noise transmission.