LaCurandera

Hi, Despite getting planning permission we put out plans on hold due to a combination of astronomical quotes and availability for trades and materials. What's the current situation? We're in East Anglia and have heard that brickies are quiet (apparently they're the bellweather trade that'll filter down later). Are there material groups that have/are coming down at all, and is there any softening of demand? Edit: I'm only asking as I want to go back out to look at the scheme, but no point (and wastes time) if everything is as nuts as 18 months ago.

Are you concerned about them seeing your current property or new one? The reason for the funds is immaterial for the valuation, it's secured on your current property. So if they value anything, it'll only be your current property and unlikely to require any access (but presumably would be fine if they did)

Converting a 1.5 storey chalet bungalow to two full floors and extension. No wider works like landscaping etc, in east Anglia. We had 5% vat as it’s been empty for more than two years, but we’ll need to move in now on a minor refurb and consider our options at these prices (in combination with cost of borrowing currently)

We went through planning and did building regs drawings but now can't afford it in good conscience for this very reason. Estimators online - £350K Builder 1 - £340K (excluding Kitchens / bathrooms / internal doors/woodwork / exterior / PV) Builder 2 - £480K (excluding kitchens / bathroom) Builder 3 - £550K (including PC sums for Kitchen / bathrooms, ~500K without) During design discussions (including a builder so not all architect fantasy), expected cost was about £300K in early 2022,

Sorry for delayed response - Thank you!

Hi, We're renovating an empty property, and had hoped to do a large extension and big plans. With mortgage rates etc we're going to now live in the property for a period ahead of doing it later. We had planned as a 5% build under 708 - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708#section8 and had builders that would operate as such However, as we aren't now doing the big build, we are still needing to do some work to bring it up to a good living level while we wait. However, this wont be on a simpler main contractor basis but probably in bits, either DIY or individual trades. How does the 5% level work in that case, can I ask each trade to invoice at 5% and supply the proof (letter from council). For things like kitchens this was easier when invoiced via the builder, but as we'll be doing it on the cheap, how might that work on an IKEA / B&Q level - has anyone asked them? Equally, can I get a trade account anywhere with the 5% level for materials? Basically, on a more DIY-led project, how can I make the most of the 5% opportunity.

Like these, I usually buy extra thick ones Industrial Black Nitrile Gloves [100 Count] 6 Mil. Latex & Powder Free Vinyl Disposable Plastic Textured Gloves https://amzn.eu/d/9l9L6k5

I just use nitrile gloves from Amazon as I use them for bike maintenance. They last a day but do the job.

Sorry to grave dig the thread - but is there any current approximations for plastering I can work out e.g. £/m2?

I think we're likely to not do a full build. Do a renovation and then wait until we can amass enough funds to make it reasonable for us. Plus, living the next few years without the extended mortgage feels like quite a win in itself

I don't think they have to be automatically centred, but I do think that it feels that's nothing intentional at the moment. It might be a trick of the eye, but the front door doesn't look centred in that nook, slightly too far left. The glazed doors are in the middle of that wall when you're inside the room, but if the hallway had any storage (where the 2571 numbers are) then glazed doors would feel "pushed over" towards the right corner. Then the external French doors just feel like they're made up. Are they in the middle externally? As others have said, 100% focus from the inside, as they feel too far left to me, regardless of the other doors. Edit: And I would say of the three, get the glazed and french doors correct is first priority. Also, remember that while the front door opens, there'll be a natural tendency for eyeline to be affected by the door. So if you were stood at the door and entering, you'll likely be looking/walking more like 1 o'clock, than perfectly straight ahead. So I would move the external french doors over to the right, then have the front door line up with the glazed doors aperture on the left side (it roughly does now if you look at the doors, maybe a smidge to the right).

If you want something that's Henry-like then the Wickes one is great for the money https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Wet+Dry-Vacuum-Cleaner-With-Blower-20L---1250W/p/215735 Light, easy to move. Used them for everything.

He can oppose on whatever basis he wants, but whether it'll be successful will be down to the planning policy of your council. They usually have a defined policy doc (I used ours in our appeal) which lays out their own rules, but I understand that ground floor windows never have to be obscured, only first floor: https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/doors-and-windows/planning-permission "If new windows are in an upper-floor side elevation they must be obscure-glazed and either non opening or more than 1.7 metres above the floor level"

Hi, Is that https://www.pws.co.uk/?

Great tip on that, thanks. Hadn't actually thought about wastage as an increase of costs

Hi In the early stages of build and one thing that is on my wife's "must have" lists is LVT throughout upstairs and down. Personally, I think it's where some value engineering might have to happen, but I could do with some rough guide numbers of m2 by flooring types. Ones we have so far : LVT - Quoted at £45 m2 - is that high/low? Tiles - Quoted at £25 m2 - is that high/low?

I understand mats for horse stables are regularly used for gym mats (and come in colours) E.g. https://www.gym-flooring.com/products/rubber-stable-mats-for-horses

I might be a cynic, but I think any guarantee over 3-5yrs is basically worthless (in terms of likelihood the customer will actually claim on it) and basically for marketing. How many customers with an Ikea wardrobe are realistically going to still have the same furniture, going to have their receipt, want to uninstall it, go through the claims process because a couple of hundred quid carcass breaks? They're more likely to be 1-2 house moves later and just buy something new that's perfect for the new place. From Ikea's POV there might be a few, but the benefit to them of saying it's 10 years guarantee and getting more sales/peace of mind (like this post) is much greater than the realistic cost of it being redeemed, regardless of quality. One exception for long guarantees are white goods, as repairs are costly and failure is big inconvenience. Even TVs I'd wager most people would just buy the latest tech.

If you're the wrong side of the latch for the credit card trick, there might still be clearance to: Get as thin wire as you can, in a semi circle Attach some thin thread Loop the circle around the latch from your side, so you'll have the thread touching the sloping side If you can, use the thread to pull through wider/stronger string When you can't get any stronger thread through, pull the thread towards you, so it's riding "up" the slope of the latch. It sometimes works if you use a tourniquet approach rather than pulling

We're at the costing stage. And I found Estimators online quote to be good, not because of the actual figure, but to give me things that I as a non-builder, hadn't considered. It'll also serve as my bellweather, so when I get other quotes, I can compare them too something, even if I know it's wrong. So first step was all the aspect to consider, before the specific costs of 30 plug sockets vs 25.

Thanks @SteamyTea!

Sounds much better. I think I'm still in the "old" mindset of rads etc everywhere. Have you got it installed, and off, or did you model it enough to know you don't need it?

Hi, This might be a REALLY stupid question, but I've always lived in houses that were (relatively) much cooler at night, warmed in the day through heating/solar gain. Going to a hotel etc and having a 19/20C temp in the room overnight has affected sleep, preferring it cooler. Our scheme is probably not passive, but it's planned on being better insulated and thought about than any house I've stayed in, so I was wonder if those that have moved from a traditional house to one with much more stable temps and how it's affected them / time to adjust. Has anyone got graphs of their house temp over a 24hr cycle at different points in the year? As, I guess it's stupid to open windows to cool overnight, defeats the object!

I use the 3M pads for quite a bit which both have a bit of thickness to dampen vibration and hold really well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/3m-sticky-pads-double-sided/s?k=3m+sticky+pads+double+sided

Yeah, if nothing else it gives me the (rough) quantity of each item, I can play with the pricing as it happens. TBH, the online version allows you to just change numbers on the fly, so is pretty flexible.