epsilonGreedy

I wonder if all parts of the smart meter system are synchronized to the same time zone?

@Cpd How many acres of coppice have you planted? From memory I think it takes a couple of acres in harvest rotation to keep a house warm.

When you say "marry" do you really mean welded to the melted circuit board?

My bricks were specified in my planning docs as Manufacturer+Brick Name.

Gotta love the free market. YouTube viewing numbers for office chair reviews and home office setups are surprising. Think I will just fit a replacement gas strut on my current cheapo office chair or use the jubilee clip trick to lock the broken gas strut at a fixed height. The thing is I do not like Herman Miller chairs even if I had £1200 to throw at an office chair.

Now that I have fitted all of my window blanks to deter nesting birds the house is very dark. I have some mobile mains powered LED worklights that can be used to introduce spot lighting to bring the illumination brightness up to a proper workshop level. The problem is I don't want extension leads trailing around all the time so I am looking for a cheap interim solution for background lighting that can be hung off ceiling joists and roof trusses for what will be a slow paced 1st & 2nd fix. Last time I asked about lighting someone with the appropriate software calculated the number of lumens required for an 8' x 6' shed for different usages all the way from background domestic room lighting up to a workshop level. In practice I found that a 10w LED strip light was fine for the shed. Based on that experience I reckon 50w to 60w of LED lighting per floor (60 m2) will provide enough background light. Three of the below per floor would seem to fit the requirement or maybe I could buy spots and fabricate ceiling mounts by cutting holes in some spare OSB offcuts? Anyhow I am just fishing for alternative ideas on how not to splash too much money on a temporary lighting rig for the whole house. https://www.screwfix.com/p/twin-2ft-led-batten-white-18w-1650lm/314fx

"Erbauer" ? I have a couple of mains powered tools from Erbauer including a track saw, decent enough and should last the build.

I purchased mine from Amazon UK but it is not showing as a current product there. I am also looking for an office chair at the moment and many respected brands and designs are out of stock, I suspect we are starting to experience the effect of a partial close down of the world economy due to Covid.

A briefcase sized tray of assorted Spax (torx) head stainless steel screws. I think it contains 1700 screws sorted into compartments ranging from 18mm to 120mm. I never waste time shopping for missing sizes or hunting for separate screw boxes in the shed. Cost something like £160.

Thanks both, I am coming around to @Temp's suggestion of using floor grade tongue & groove chipboard. I have 2 sheets left over from the first floor decking, I think it is caber deck (the board with a grey laminate textured surface). This will cost a few more £££ than OSB but as this will need to cope with 1st and 2nd fix foot traffic for many months it feels worthwhile.

Ok will do. The glazing tutorial videos I found online were for casement and sash windows detached and placed on a workshop table prior to glazing hence no need for retaining pins. Now I need to go shopping for a small hammer or... try to use a nail punch.

Might be a good thing, it can be poisonous. The best glazing videos on YouTube tend to originate in North America, I blame Ted Moult and his Everest Double Glazing TV adverts for the decline of traditional glazing in the UK.

I have followed @PeterW's advice and primed the glazing recess in the wooden window frame. Today the wind has died down which gives me an opportunity to fit a single pane of glass that is 1.1m tall x about 500mm wide. The instructions on the tub of putty recommend a few glazing pins to hold the glass in place once the rebate has been lined with putty and the glass pushed in. Once the pins are in I will then apply the main external bead of putty. After the main bead of putty has been applied should I remove the pins before trimming the putty? I have a pack of 25mm x 1.6mm sheradised panel pins for the job.

It is what the wetsuit hire business does (thankfully).

I am trying to picture this setup. Unless your FFL is very high it sounds as though the duct is u-shaped with a low point between the outside intake and the internal upstand feeding into the stove. Might a puddle of water be developing at the low point?

You must be a real dinghy sailor. For "dustbin full of bleach to wash your wetsuit in and cold showers" I go to Cornwall and try to surf.

Excellent. I will need to investigate local council restructuring to see if the council has changed its name. It is a district council.

I discovered this years ago when sailing in the winter. The marina rebuilt the shower block with underfloor heating and after that it became a mandatory feature of my future dream house.

How would my local council react if I asked to view a planning application made years ago?

My thinking is that if the principal bathroom is 10% lower than the prevailing internal house temperature then I will have to overheat the whole house to mitigate the complaints. That will rise the total heating bill more than the cost of bathroom UFH. I also hope that a warm bathroom will allow me to shut down the main house heating earlier in the Spring. Don't under estimate the value of a dry floor and dry warm towels when doing your raw thermal calcs.

One expensive option for anti foul paint on a yacht's bottom is a paint comprised of epoxy + plus a copper powder mixed in just before painting. The concept has a so-so reputation and success depends on sanding the anti foul paint once a season to expose fresh copper. I only mention this to highlight that the toxic effect of copper declines as it oxidizes.

After skipping the unboxing intro in the video I saw some latency numbers, 30 something and 170ms. East Coast US is 90 ms away so the 170 figure looked plausible, however all other tests indicate the 33ms is the actual figure which is excellent. Earlier generation internet via satellite was awful for latency, we must be seeing the benefit of the low earth orbit cluster. Even so to achieve 33ms the downlink into the StarLink backbone must be close by in the UK or northern europe.

There must be additional latency in the StarLink system, I wonder how that will affect a Zoom call?

After the proposed 1m extension what is the remaining distance to the nearest boundary? What is the percentage increase to the overall internal floor area?

My guess is that local planning policy is to encourage diversified business activity in agricultural areas and the holiday homes match that objective.