epsilonGreedy

I cannot see how that will work, statics do not have an eave overhang and the roof is is not designed to take the weight of a person. I fear your cladding will end up as a botch that will come apart during a winter storm unless it is formed around a fully independent structure that envelopes the whole static caravan in which case just skip the static and build something like a prefab chalet or grand summer house. Rubber matting sheets over the roof can solve the rain noise. Noise from the roof of a purpose built static is tolerable, I was responding to your idea of a corrugated roof over a diy structure.

One bedroom statics are very rare, +12" wide models are easier to find. At 13.5' x 38' mine weighs in at 8 tons. Are you confident about swinging such a weight from the public road onto your site? I cannot visualize your site but building something onsite might be your way forward. Checkout the following workshop build video series. He slots some insulated panels together around a wooden frame. p.s. a corrugated roof will require something to dampen the noise of heavy rainfall.

Static caravans are flimsy structures so I would caution about moving walls or remodeling one. They are fitted out with space efficient modules particularly in the bathroom. Mine is an extra wide 13'6" model with a total floor space of around 460 sq ft. It is a rare 1 bedroom version and life has been more than tolerable for 2.5 years. By my calculations a mid size touring caravan is 100 to 130 sq ft. Even with a large static life became much better with an extra 8' x 4' garden shed to house the washing machine and tumbler. There are many solutions to the accommodation problem but a common theme is that people build extensions or add an awning to their initial accommodation unit. Do you have planning for a garage? p.s. I would want something larger than 4" x 4" posts to handle the occasional extreme winter gust striking the structure side on. Just a hunch...

I don't think the planners can dispute the construction method used for temporary workers accommodation. It might be simpler for you and the planners if you obtained formal approval for temporary residential accommodation on site for the duration of the build. After reading this thread I would advise against the idea of living in a touring caravan for more than one summer. Have you thought about building the garage first? One solution I have seen is a touring caravan connected to one door of a double garage. The caravan was used for a bathroom, bedroom and late evening snug while the larger space of the garage hosted a kitchen and laundry. btw Touring caravans are expensive and buy you 25% of the square footage of a static at a similar stage of depreciation.

Cold and dry for most of April down south.

I make 10 blocks to be 10 x 225 + 50 wallplate minus 18mm skimmed plasterboard = 2282 which is a useful addition to what you calculate.

Have you thought about the internal appearance? Brick Brick Lintel will give little drop from the ceiling which could look odd.

Since starting this thread I have encountered more baffling terms such as "rights in common" and "quasi easements".

My plot has 12 covenants and a near mirror image set of entitlements granted as easements. This means all plots should have the same cross-plot rights. I am trying to workout how these cross-plot legal clauses cascade as multiple plots with planning permission on a single parcel of land are then sold off in an arbitrary sequence. For example the lawyers need to ensure that the first plot to sell will have reciprocal covenants and grants with the future owners of the final plot that sells. Some covenants are for the benefit of the seller and some are for the seller's retained land. Before racking up another hour's bill with my solicitor I am trying to understand as much as possible. Is there anything like BuildHub for legal stuff?

I am examining some property deeds and trying to understand a numbered list of clauses in the deeds section titled "Restrictive covenants by the transferee". Does this mean that the plot buyer "transferee" agrees to be bound to the operational restrictions listed under this section of the deeds?

@joe90 are the window frames wood?

That is definitive. I am now heading back out to empty the sack of kindling in order to reject the treated pieces.

I was tidying up the old mitre saw cutting location. Many of the offcuts are green in colour because the wood has been treated. Will these treated offcuts give off noxious fumes when burnt? In theory the stove will operate with the door closed but the kindling sized offcuts might start burning with the door open.

Ah-ha, I thought there must a solution for such a common situation. I was worried you were going to say "counter battens" which would have lost an 1" or "2 of ceiling height.

This is just a theoretical question at the moment as I consider switching from plasterboard to traditional wet plaster in a small section of my house. Even with a thin 50mm wall plate minus the thickness of ceiling plasterboard there must be 32mm of wooden wallplate to plaster over on the vertical face of the wall just under the ceiling board. I imagine the wood cannot be plastered over directly due to movement. What is the solution?

I had 10 bags of cement sitting on a wooden pallet over the garden lawn during the winter. Plastic bags and under a tarpaulin. Still powder dry yesterday.

Did you wet the walls before brushing on the slurry? I found that within seconds further brush strokes causes the quickly drying slurry to crumble off the wall as small granules.

As per my initial post.

Ok yesterday did not go so well. I mixed up half a bucket full of quote @PeterW"sloppy 3:1 mix will be fine" and applied it to a test 2 m2 area of wall. The floor had been swept clean which is a good thing because half the sloppy mix ended up on the floor and I was able to reuse it. This was a failure in technique. Today I have concluded my finishing options are: A very wet slurry finish that half fills the pores on the surface of a block, this will be little more than 1mm thick. Slightly stiffer mix applied more like plaster and thick enough to fill the bucket handle mortar pointing. I think this will be 2 to 3mm thick. Half way through the trial patch I found a rectangular plastering trowel in the shed with a course square-tooth serrated edge which was much better than a standard brick laying trowel. This leaves a thicker finish but the parge coat dried very quickly so my attempt at a brushed finish just knocked off the square pattern left by the plastering trowel leaving a smooth finish. Not a glassy smooth finish however. If I am going to wet plaster a year later, this venture feels like wasted effort. Perhaps @Russell griffithsis right and the parge coat will be almost as dusty as the current block finish. I might just line out this 8' x 8' space with panels of osb or plasterboard. When I started this job I imagined a finish similar to the smoother sections of the beam & block floor finish that had a very wet & strong mix to lock the blocks in position. The areas of the block and beam floor that were not later contaminated with 5 to 1 mortar dropped by the brickies, can be scrubbed clean to a dust free finish and I had imagined a similar parge coat finish on the block walls. If I do continue with the parging, would finish (1) be ok for later plastering if the slurry mix half fills the rough finish in the surface of the blocks?

Before I begin I should clarify that the type of parge coat I am talking about is a very thin sand/cement layer smeared over an internal block wall for air tightness. I mention this because I know that our resident plastering pro @nod sometimes refers to a parge coat when discussing a thicker scratch coat layer. Anyhow onto my question. If I smear a thin sand/cement coat over my block walls and later switch plan from dot & dab plasterboard to a classic wet plaster finish, will the proper plaster scratch coat adhere ok to the thin smeared coat that has sealed the block surface? I ask because I imagine the original block surface offers better grip when a block wall is wet plastered. Motivation: As I am prepping a small section of my unfinished house to create a site office I have noticed how dusty the environment is and I am hoping that applying a thin smeared parge goat over the blocks will lock in masonry dust escaping from the blocks. The proper plastering work to finish the room is a year+ away.

I wish the going rate was just £100. In my down at heal corner of England a mid ranking solicitor specializing in property litigation (as opposed to conveyancing) is £200 + VAT per hour. They will want deeds and maps and time review the history of the dispute before issuing a letter. Is your experience different? I would like to know because I will soon be heading in this direction over my boundary dispute.

That sounds like a sensible approach to resolve an established dispute where bath parties are behaving reasonably. Depending on funds available I would fire off a registered letter to the other party in order to establish proof that you dispute the other party's claims. Keep the language terse and minimal i.e. don't rehearse a long winded argument in the letter as thought you were in the High Court and presenting a case to a Judge.

My general advice is do not assume the other party will behave like a rational logical human being. I had no idea how wicked, delusional and evil people could be until I started self building.

Don't look up @joe90there is a turbulent tephigram lurking over you. https://youtu.be/_ZuMlOXOtIU?t=89 This is just a fun way to advise the forum that the good building weather is set to continue according to the latest 10 day Met Office weather forecast published on YouTube 5 hours ago. A bit windy down south. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZuMlOXOtIU

@joe90"sad face"? Size of the job?