Roger440

Indeed. As i observed on another thread, outside burning your own wood, the cheapest heating option. Its a crazy world. Traditionally it was an expensive option, for those with little choice. Just need to go find another oil boiler for my barn/workshop.

Why a cavity behind the plasterboard I'll put my money on air circulating behind the plasterboard.

This. 100% guaranteed. Not so sure of a U turn, but the builders will get the blame.

They wont build them properly. They will just be more inventive about getting them signed off. The majority of the trades, nor the BCO's will ever understand. Which is why they will have to work round it. The few that do will make an awful lot of money. Its simply not realistic to replace most of the existing workforce with different people who want are smart enough to understand AND want to work outside in all weathers.

Excellent. Your link shows pics of a double size one. Looking like a job for next week

Thanks for the info. I was hoping not to have to mofify my freshly completed wall. Looks like i will be. The Hetta one fits in a single socket back box.

No reply to mine either.

Well, if it does, it not in any of the instructions.

Yes! Crap isnt it.

Cant believe that will be allowed

How will you do that is its password protected and you dont know what it is?

All rather predicatable. Indeed, was predicted by many.

They will have to use public transport.

All the more reason some of us will stick with petrol and diesel to the bitter end. Aside from the fact, that from an affordability point of view, an EV hasnt, and still isnt remotely viable.

Dont see they need any qualifications. Dont think mine did. Though they did from the company that made the steel bars. The structural guy came up with a scheme, and the chaps installed it as per drawing. Wasnt exactly rocket science! My insurance dont know, nor need to know. But i wasnt making a claim either.

Like so many of these things, its just a protection racket. If i want to put beads in my wall i will. As it happens i cant, because its full of cables Top marks to the OP for actually finding a way. Had i been going ahead, id be building a replica. Still might do for house. Not demolishing it either.

My lovely new UFH is, well, lovely. Except the control is crap. Ther thermostat doesnt switch off or on the pump until its 1.5 degrees past the target temp. Which means a variation of 3 degrees. Its a Hetta HM01PT for what its worth. Which claims a measurement accuracy of 0.1 degrees. The instructions seem to suggest this not adjustable or configurable. Is this normal, or is this just a particuarly crap device? Assuming its dustbin material, whats my best option for something with much tighter control?

Didnt know there was such a thing. Seems quite logical when you think about it. Why isnt everyone doing it?

You mention moves to decouple the electricity price. Where have you seen these moves? I see nothing of the sort. Probably because too many people making mad money from it at our expense. The government could have done that early on instead of spraying cash about. Genuinely interested in your source of info for that. I agree, insulation and air tightness is a no brainer. However, for the part of the house with solid walls, overdoing it on insulation is likely to cause a bunch of other issues by moving the dew point closer to the inside of the wall. Hence my comment about there being limits to what can be achieved. As you also observe, things will change during the liftime of the heating system, which is what makes it so hard to choose. If you choose one system, such as ASHP, you are committed. Hence my "multi input" approach that im considering. Which on the face of it is a bunch of upfront costs, but by doing all the installation myself, i can, hopefully keep it sensible. I do have the possibility of some hydro, but ive not yet got round to checking how much head of water ive actually got. Rough guess it will be sub 500w, albeit thats continuous all winter. As always, the upfront cost, even doing it myself, is such that payback is a million years. Which is such a shame as hydro is the ultimate clean power. You can get energy from it over and over again. I can use it, then the same water can be used by the next guy downstream. Shame they make it so hard to do. Oh, and ive got 5 acres, so GSHP could be done too. So many choices..................

But you are not buying energy. You are buying wood. A lot of it ends up as fence posts. For example.

I looked at using sheepswool in my barn. Even if i got it free, which i could, or near enough, by the time you get it into a fit state to use, it makes no economic sense at all. Cheaper to buy rockwool or similar.

Im not sure this is helping the OP much though

Thats just how you buy raw timber. I dont make the rules, the forestry industry does. I believe the correct term is a "cord" of timber. It will be "wet" because it just got cut down the day before.

I agree. So how it it done in something like a passiv house, or something to that standard?

Id need to dig it out. You buy it by the cube. As its can be very wet. Min delivery was a full artic load. And its not got to come far. So haulage was minimal. I worked it out a few times. Then found a website that told me much the same. I was amazed. But you have to "process" it yourself. Which of course is where the cost comes if you were to sell it commercially as dried timber. Ive not included, fuel for chainshaw, new chains etc. If you bought logs, rather than roundwood, it was, in round numbers twice as much.