Roger440

Why do you want or need all the complication? Especially electronics? Much more failure prone than the pumps. Mine are on 2 seperate supplies, direct from incoming after the meter with their own independant protection seperate from the house. They are zoeller pumps with there own integral floats. There are no other controls. To check i can either, fill sump with water, or just lift up the float. Simples. I dont believe i could make it simpler. Simple = reliable. Electronics = unreliable!! And as back up, in the event of loss of mains power, as stated, a battery pump. Again, independant. Worst that could happen is power goess off in the house (tripped RCD, but mains pumps are still running. That would trigger the battery pump as well. So a "right side" failure. I consider the loss of mains power a significant risk in flood conditions. Can you tell my background is maintenance...............................

In my case, pretty much what pocster has done. Bought a twin pump (zoeller)version of this: https://www.sumpsandpumpsdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Zoeller-Grey-Water-Pumping-Station.html#SID=48 The pumps are at different levels. Mine was done to counter a flood event from the river, so they will rarely if ever be used. In case of power failure, the same company supplied piggy back battery pump (12v) with capacity to run for 4 hours. Which in my case, is plenty. More batteries wouls increase that time. For it not to work, both mains pumps and battery sysatem would need to fail.

You sound like you are building the garage at my last place. Details here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/my-gab-in-the-uk-thread.265998/ As mentioned earlier if BCO think yiu are putting heating in it, they will treat it has habitable space, with full compliance necessary. So accidentally installing UFH pipes after they have viewed will be necessary. Then hide the manifold. I had enough of a struggle explaing why there was insulation under the floor slab. My argument, entirely true, was i wanted a thermally stable environment to store my cars to prevent deterioration. The "trade" simply doesnt get it.

Didnt use it for a workshop, but did in my house (old, no DPC etc etc) Aside from cost, is little downside. I looked at it again for a workshop that would have the potential to flood, so definitely was in the running, as completely unaffected by water. In the house, i used it for all the reasons they state, but inside the house, and not wanting to dig to far down and expose the foundations, its main benefit was being the load bearing AND insulating layer combined. Of course, it doesnt meet current regs. Does your workshop need to?

Solid 9 inch wall suggests no DPC? In which case, covering with impermeable celotex is asking for problems of the damp variety.

What Radian said about D&D. If you are doing EWI, then the problem will likely go away. In the meantime, a dessicant based dehumidifer is prob your best option. Well, second best to removing it. How confident are you there will be absolutely no draughts or air movement beind the boards? If there is any at all, all youy EWI will be utterly pointless. You mention lime mortar on the walls. Did you do this? Given its a solid wall, and therefore, im guessing no DPC, and assuming its downstairs, id plaster in lime. Not much point having lime motor if you are going to stick plasterboard over it! If its upstairs, just plaster it.

You have a cold wall and warm plasterboard and an excellent thermal bridge. Until you solve that problem, its not likely to go away. The real question is why you would d&d onto a solid uninsulated wall? There are loads of potential solutions.

See my post above.

PIR or similar was never an option anyway because of the lack of DPC in the walls, though yes, you could be right. Though the back half of the house is modern and that didnt float away! The issue before i started was concrete slab over DPM creating wet walls with gypsum plaster over. Creating the same again wasnt happening. The arrangement is basically the same as this: https://www.lime.org.uk/products/sylfaenr-foundation-system.html The walls are lime plastered both to allow the wall to breate, and also to allow it to dry if it gets wet in a flood. I know there are wildly differing opinions on this, but removing the concrete/dpm and gypsum plater fixed all the damp issues in my house. quickly. I know what i see. But ultimately, keeping things damp free, and not not having to strip off plaster post flood meant that the thermal performance came a poor second. No idea what the power loss is. Didnt worry about it as theres nothing i can do about it. Just concentrated on the detaling to make as draught free as poss. For reference its a 9 inch wall with lime plaster on the inside and unknown render on the outside.

Because its old, ie 9 inch walls, no dpc etc, under that is a geocell/foamed glass bed. The chaps doing the limecrete that went over it put it there. Part of their system. I then laid the water pipes before they came back and laid the floor. Compared to most of what goes on here, its a thermal catastrophe, but options were limited given the construction and the possibility of flooding.

After more than 6 months since the floor went down, ive finally got it connected. Not me, a nice plumber chap. Why have i never done this before. Bloody fantastic. Everyone should have it! Gratuitous before and after shots.

If my memory serves they say no structural calcs requitred for up to 1m. Mine was 750 at the highest point. As it was near trees, that was my primary driver, so it could move a bit. Plus i cant lay bricks! I cant really see many reasons why you would use brick/block/concrete.

Have you considered something like this: https://ag.uk.com/professionals/products/category/retaining-wall-system/ Ive used it twice to good effect. Plus its pretty much idiot proof to build. And in the event of slight ground movement it wont just crack

Thanks. Are 100% certain of that? I think the lack of overhang is releatively easily fixed, as is the gutter. Much as id not choose it myself, especially given where it is, its probably cheaper to repair the damaged part than remove it all and do something else.

It was like this when i bought it, so i have no recourse to anything. Its also, id guess, up to 20 years old? Based on the fact that roof cap sheets are applied over it, and thats when it was built. Its concrete blockwork. Its well sheltered, hence the "green" look! But you comments are not filling me with reasons to repair it. Given only one end of the building/barn (that i cant see) is done, and the rest is bare concrete block, it serves no useful purpose. But stripping it all off doesnt leave a clean wall either. And im also aware that the current shelter from a massive bank of conifers will "disappear" at some point, leaving it rather exposed to the west.

That was very useful. Thanks . Ive seen some of vids, but not that one. I dont follow what you mean on the tingle repair. I understand it for holding tiles, but for a valley repair?

Sorry, but im not sure what you mean? Cut a line where? Surely i need to be removing all the tiles?

Thanks What should it be? Code 5? Yes, you are right, that run is probably 3-3.5 meters. Cant say im surprised. Main issue is finding someone to fix it properly. Ive properly bodged it for now. There are other issues, like the eaves being completely boxed in and minimal airflow. But i understand and can fix those.

On my nice new barn, we have this issue going on. Its clearly going to fall off soon. But i just wanted to know what it is? Hopefully the buildhub massive will know. The end of the building is done as 4 seperate areas with plastic edgoing. Only one has a problem. So pondering my options to repair? Clearly the lack of any roof overhang isnt great, but i think the primary cause is that the gutter has been leaking and running down the wall, and got under it.

On the new (quite old) house, there was a leak in the dormer window area. We knew this as its obviously been like it some time. Getting up to look what the issue is, ive found that the lead has eroded away. To the point of a split. Would i be correct in presuming that this is not actually lead?

As an aside, the cavity wall could be filled with EPS bead. But most of the electric cabling is in the cavity. How real is the issue with cable embrittlement?

Ok, so i have finally gotr up into the roof space to have a better look. A good point raised earlier, was if doing with some sort of membrane/rockwall about wind pressure above. Looking at these pics, id guess it could by blocked off. But it would still need ventilation somehow. As you can see in the third pic, a fair number of the screw holes leak slightly so get damp patches at times. I guess sealing these up will work, but thats a mamoth undertaking! In the back of my mind i keep thinking, maybe just spend the money and replace the roof with composite steel. All problems fixed in one go. And white on the inside too.............. But VERY spendy. Choices, choices.

I looked at this in our current house for the cavity, though the prime driver was, because of the risk of flooding, the normal options were not viable. Also, and i was specifically looking at BASF walltite, it is water proof. So would help resist the passage of water through the wall. The OP didnt mention the construction of his 60's house. But if its brick/block, inner leaf and outer, to me it looks like a great idea. Cost aside of course. Im again considering it at the new place, this time because of the risk of wind driven rain. Though the available tables rate EPS beads as a better option in these circumstances. Which makes no sense to me at all. I certainly wouldnt use it in a roof at all. Or probably in a timber framed house.

Ok! Bonkers cost, yes. But enviromentally, it would be much better.

Talking to my tame steel building erector, its normally a non issue. Frames are normally much the same even if they are putting on a 120mm composte panel. One would hope a competent spray foam installer would take account of that.