Roger440

Thats nice. But not the same thing. Overall power generation hasnt gone up by any appreciable amount. Simply replaced one with another, rather less predicatable source.

Your last paragraph is key. And you are right. There is no credible plan to increase production to match (forced) demand. Therefore, the price must go up, unless there is a state intervention. My best guess is that such interventions will dry up. Of course i could be wrong.

Yes, but, call me selfish, but i dont want their lifestyle either. Do you?

Its fortunate you are in a postion that financial payback doesnt matter. However that puts you firmly in a minority. Even where a payback is, lets say, under 10 years, it rather irrelevant if you cant afford the capital investment, which, again, will be the majority. Thinking collectively is what government "should" be for. Good luck with that. The last 30 years of energy policy suggests you may be dissapointed. Its pretty much everyman for himself. Which is why im on this thread.

Do we not think that adding 30 million households to electric heating when starmer turns off gas in 2030, and the longer term addtion of 30 million electric cars wont have an effect on prices, given that, in simplistic terms, generation capacity isnt increasing significantly? Normally, an increase in demand, and a constriction in supply normally only has one outcome.

Do keep us updated. The principle is fairly simple. Its just the practical application.

Correct me if im wrong, but the link you provide is the "buy" price, not the selling price?

But thats not actually necessary is it? Or am i missing something? My plan was to connect my solar direct to heating water for heating the house. That way it can be completely stand alone and avoid all the unnecessary complications of interfacing with the grid supply. Sure, in summer, ill have a bunch of power i dont need. Does that matter? Sorry, not direct to heating water, put with a heat pump. But stand alone all the same.

Sadly, as this thread shows, there dont appear to be any economically sensible solutions to storing energy for extended periods. Even on a DIY basis, and even if you have unlimited space. I think we have concluded i "can" install a solar array big enough to heat my house all year, but the costs of doing so, again, make no sense, even DIY with second hand kit. The real difficulty, as discussed before, is not knowing what the price of electricity is likely to be going forward. On a supply/demand basis, very much higher than it is now seems "likely". But not with enough confidence to spend a 5 figure sum on the necessary PV installation.

Can it be on its side? If so, i could. Whats the payback? About eleventy billion years?

Exactly. Meanwhile in the building game, nothing much has happened. Still the same as 40 years ago and relies totally on the skill and dilgence of the installer for it to work right. Which anyone with half a brain will tell you doesnt happen 95% of the time. If you applied any engineering logic you would design something that could accet a sensible amount of misalignment and poor fitting. Because thats EXACTLY what happens. But perversly in this game actual performance doesnt matter much, only the tested performance. Anyway, thanks for the suggestions on windows you have used succesfully. Shall look into them

But in this sceanrio, water needs diverting, that means valves. And that means valve control. Which means sensors and electronics. Electronics = unreliability. And a level of understanding to fix when it goes wrong that i dont possess. Back to where we started. Would need a passive divertor system as each tank reaches max temp. Something with a waxstat. More research required.......

Or 535 tons for my house. Not an entirely practical idea out in the real worl i think.....................

No 3 phase here. This was/is going to be DIY. It simply wont fly otherwise. Though, by my calcs id need another 50 odd panels. Ones like mine are going for around £100 a pop, so that would be £5k. I think i need a lie down! I take your point about summer export, though it was something id rather avoid. More complication and cost. Good point on the storage size. Hadnt considered that. I was considering large in case i wanted to add a gasification log boiler which would generate a lot of heat quickly (as per previous discussions). Need to ponder how that would work with smaller multiple tanks. A complicated control system i suspect. I dont like complicated. complication = unreliability.

Out of interest, do yours use the standard type of seal glued/bonded at the corners? In my experience these always split in the end.

Ok, As i said, not good at maths. You introduced a p in there. Not sure what that means? Ive picked up FOC what is described as a 4.5Kw PV array (plus invertor) . Are you saying 4 of these would do the job? Im rather more keen on a massive water tank than batteries. I could potentially then heat it by other means too. Though i do have a battery powered forklift........

Quite! Lets be honest, the sealing on all the windows ive encountered, from an engineering perspective is a joke! Along with the structural integrity in many cases on doors. And my 1979 UPVC units seal look remarkably similar to my 4 year old units. Fortunately modern cars dont use the same sealing arrangements as my 70's triumphs. Its call progress. Seems lacking on windows and doors. I suspect they are all like it though, but i dont actually know that, hence the thread.

All good valid points, AND it still looks like a high risk for investor. Give us all your money now, for payback in the future. Not a new idea and we know how it often ends. I suspect this well outside the scope of any financial regulation.

My new house is smaller than my old one, but less thermally effiecent. Early indications are an oil consumption rate similar to the old one. Which was about 1700 litres of oil a year, so circa 16000kwh annually. Ok, im going to improve the current situation, so lets say im really good and halve it 7500. Just rough numbers its going to need over 1000kwh per month in mid winter, or 33kwh per day. Feel free to point out what bit ive got wrong, maths isnt my strong point, or how much PV i need in december / january. But its going to be an awful lot?

Interesting. But i note they dont answer the question, what if they go bust? Which they probably will. I think investing in the stock market would be much safer.

Im aware of all that. Indeed, setting it up almost vertical for winter makes perfect sense, which i can do as it wont be roof mounted. However, Id still need a solar farm in mid winter though!

Ive done all that. Pretty much most times the frame is out of square, sagging doors aside. No amount of adjustment, even with new seals gets it air tight. Only setting the frame true and square will resolve. Which to me seems to be where it all falls over. If the guy fitting it doesnt get it bob on, its doomed to failure. Whilst it would be easy to critisize the fitment, what practical method an you use to get it absolutrly square in all planes halfway up the side of a house. My back door, its no more than 2mm out. But thats enough, it wont seal. Hence the questions really. What windows are people using, and are the actually air tight when tested as part of the house air tightnress test? How to tell good windows from bad, and how to know that the good ones are installed properly?

My house is mostly 170 years old, so zero possibility of passivhaus standards. Its going to use energy, even with sensible pragmatic works applied. Having ample space, i could generate enough PV or solar thermal in summer to run it in winter. Thats why i looked at milk tankers, buried if need be. But its simply economic madness. So yes, Yes, buying shares or similar seems to be a much better solution than actually solving the problem! Even at a £1 per Kwh, it still doesnt even start to stack up.

Same problem. Sun doesnt shine much in the winter. You cant sensibly store months of electricity to run said heat pump.

I guess so?