SteamyTea

Trouble is that in a small home, you loose wall space and floor area. Why I took the panel heaters out of the bedrooms, they limited were I could put the beds.

Just 1

Quite like this, not that I spend much time in front of one. https://electronnicproject.blogspot.com/2017/11/build-voice-controlled-diy-raspberry-pi-smart-mirror.html

Does rely on having room for it, and a thermal store. There are some relatively small, wall mounted air to air heap pumps, that could be good enough for a small place. It may be able to fit them in with oversized MVHR, but again, in a small house or flat, probably not enough room.

Yes, and if the water temperature is low, it will flow even less.

My shower delivers at 11 lt/min, it is nice. Probably get away with 9 lt/minute.

https://cromarbuildingproducts.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/DataSheets/Powder-Mortar-Tone.pdf

Nice way to make a few quid from a RPi.

Ply, jigsaw and sticky tape.

It really comes down to what you want. Do you want a house that is at a constant temperature, regardless of usage/occupancy. Or one that drops the temperature at certain times i.e. night, unoccupied. Or, to take advantage of variable rate energy prices. Or a system that preempts external weather conditions. Basically, the more you want, the more complicated it gets. About time I came at looked at your energy usage again, maybe watch you balance your MVHR at the same time.

Using mass as storage is really just a way to either time shift when you put the energy in, which may save cash, or to stabilise output temperature, or both. When normal radiators are put in, I have never heard it mentioned that they lack mass, and people see quite happy that they have an area of wall that is, in effect, unusable because there is a hot emitter there. It is really just down to doing some simple heat loss calculations and then finding a cost effective solution. @TerryEuses UFH and a very simple inline, resistance element. He can explain more about it better than me.

You have not used an induction hob then. It is always better to separate space heating and hot water. They do different things, at different times, and at different temperatures. During this renovation can you put in underfloor heating?

Yes it is. I have often wondered why no one has made a low power transmitter that fools the radio controlled switch on the E7. Would save me about 50p a day.

I am at work then, so may be worth having a look at. Is there a live feed that I could use to switch on equipment when the price is low i.e. if unit price is less than 1p, switch on water and storage heaters.

Get the temperatures sorted, then obsess about the flow temperatures.

Does seem your UFH is not optimal, have you got an infra-red thermometer, then you can point it at floor and see what the temperatures are.

That is the losses at 20°C temperature difference. The real difference may well be only 3 or 4 K for a fair slice of the year and 10 K for the rest. And the losses only count when you actually put on supplementary heating. I turned mine on last night (as 16° in the house, 4°C outside). But it will probably go off again after the cold spell.

This is a confusing question, 'Q' is often used for heat flux. if 3.5 kWh a day are lost though the fan, the power is: 3.5 kWh / 24 h = 144 W

@Home Farm What is confusing (though I often get confused too).

As a rule of thumb, cubic metre of air has a mass of 1.2 kg. The energy needed to heat 1 kg of air by 1 K is 1 kJ. There are 1000 litres in 1 m3. There are 3600 seconds in an hour. 6 [lt.s-1] / 1000 = 0.006 m3.s-1 0.006 [m3.s-1] / 1.2 = 0.0072 kg.s-1 0.0072 [kg.s-1 ] x 3600 = 25.92 kg.hour-1 To convert from kJ to kWh multiply by 0.0002778 25.92 x 0.0002778 = 0.0075 kWh I have skipped the conversion to kJ as air has a SHC of 1 (near enough), though there will be some energy in the moisture) This gives you a loss of 0.0075 kWh for every K, or °C, temperature rise, for every hour the fan is running. So taking the 20°C temperature difference in your example, to run that fan for 24 hours will be: 0.0075 [kWh] x 20 [K] x 24 [h] = 3.46 kWh

Seems it happened on the 26/05/2019 for 9 hours and again the next day for 2 hours. This lead to an average system price of -£12.16/MWh. https://www.current-news.co.uk/news/uk-negative-power-pricing-record-smashed-and-balancing-costs-spike-during-extraordinary-weekend

A guy I knew at university worked in Barbados for several years as a boat builder/repairer. I think he sailed back to Falmouth in a boat he build. I often wonder why he came back.

I have recently read that it may be possible to get paid to take energy when there is a surplus. Somehow I don't think this is going to happen, was more smartmeter.org.uk claiming this was a reason to get a smart meter. But if that is the case, and electricity during other times is not too costly, I would consider getting some more storage heater and getting them to switch on at the right time. I think I could reliably pull 70A, so that is ~16 kW. If they were paying 3p/kWh to take power, and that window is half a a day, 3 times a week during the winter, then that is ~£12.50. I better go on the hunt for some free storage heater.

A wood gasification burner maybe. Or a windturbine. Or invest in a solar farm as offset.

I don't know how much a SunAmp weighs, but my storage heaters probably have a greater energy density than a SunAmp. The reason they can do this is because they can storage at a much higher temperature.