SteamyTea

The Carnot cycle, you can't get better for a heat engine. You have mentioned a fair few negative things, reinforced by @PeterStarck's comments. What it is really down to is having a system correctly sized and installed. A kW is a unit of power, if your house need say 3 kW to raise the temperature by 5°C, then it matters not if that power is supplied by a heat pump, an oil or gas burner, or even an open fire. What will change in the energy input, this is where heat pumps win. They use less 'imported' energy as they get the majority of the needed energy locally (the air or ground). As for price to install, people tend to change traditional systems bit by bit, but this just masks some of the costs. Add up all the costs over a 25 year period and they are probably similar. And what narks me is that people often talk about 'payback' of a heat pump, but that never gets mentioned when talking about traditional systems.

That is to do with reducing attenuation. Which is another factor in sound propagation. It is why there is a large reducing in sound levels between 1 m and 2 m away, the surface area of the 'sphere of sound' is greatly increased, which reduces the energy per unit area. Realistically, any half decent ASHP is not going to make much noise. @joe90's air blower for his sewage was a bigger problem.

This is the biggest problem. It is why I don't have PV, and ASHP and a Sunamp. Just not worth it for my usage. Using an inch less water in the bath gives me a bigger saving than all that, but that is partly because my water costs me more than the price of heating it.

The dB sound scale is non linear though. https://www.britannica.com/science/sound-physics/The-decibel-scale

That's because they don't look at data. Once cleaned up that data should give you a pretty decent idea of what is happening at different times of the day. Then you could change behaviour to optimise the storage i.e. if little solar stored during the day, go out that night to a friend's house. Generally what happens is that you will use less energy overall, which makes the system seem to perform better.

You should have bought a decent inverter. Now you may have to get one of the export power mangers for your inverter.

The majority of people on here, and in the general population, can't understand how to take advantage of E7, so anything that 'they have to tinker with' is a non starter. Let's face it, most people on here, and nearly all of the general public, don't understand how electricity is made and distributed, they think it comes from Unicorn Fart. If you tell them that during the day, the Unicorns are doing some other things, like powering offices and factories, so the only way you can get more is to pay extra, but tomorrow those times will be different, as the sun has come out, they will get very confused. So yes, people just want a simple installation and operation. My computer has 287 commands built in at the command prompt. I use 2 of them, (cd and copy). That is 2 more than most people, in the world. Things have to be simple from the outside.

Worth a go, could be interesting.

You have to define 'eco'. It is a nonsense term otherwise. Quite interested in your energy monitor though, care to post up more details?

Yes, it will not change much when you initially move into your new place (we take our habits with us). Yes, and no. That is pretty useless really, can't see any numbers, so just about impossible to work out what is happening.

can it show the energy, rather than the power?

What do you use in the place you currently live in? There are many on here that will agree with that method.

Do you know, or can you accurately estimate, your night usage? Don't know what your weather is like so far north and east of the true West Country, but down here it is a 'no weather day'. So just a white/grey sky and no wind, occasional rain. But because there is a lot of scattered light, it would be interesting to see how much your PV will generate, probably not as bad as one assumes.

FFS is it 1985 with all this talk about resetting clocks, timers and 'electrical' goods.

Could probably make a stab at it, and because of its age, it will be quite high. How many miles has it done? Then there is 'green' and 'green', just as there is 'eco' and 'sustainable'. They are just nonsense terms. My car passed its MOT today, still on the original rear brakes and clutch. The carbon cost, after 13 years and 155k will be quite low, but you have to take into account that 117k of those miles are in the last 5 years. If I had got an EV, say a Leaf, that would have been even lower.

I have done a preempted strike.

Yes it does, as does many manufacturing processes. Most Lithium is not mined, it is extracted using water. Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile are the main producers and though it is true that some areas have water scarcity and compete with agriculture, those areas are not the most productively agriculturally. The idea is to lift subsistence farming out of the dark ages with the cash that the lithium can generate. It is similar to putting a solar farm on agricultural land, the worst land is used, not the best. The best land still generates a much larger income than PV can. I would also think that a modern lithium processing plant is a lot cleaner that a cast iron smelting plant. A kWh of Lithium battery storage takes about 136 kWh of energy to produce (https://learn.openenergymonitor.org/sustainable-energy/energy/cars). That is about 14 litres of gasoline. How far does a car go on 3 gallons, 150 miles? If you get 200 cycles out of that kWh of lithium storage, that is around 400 miles. A factor of 3 better even in a large EV that uses 500Wh/mile (and some are twice as good as that). Not in the same league at all. Nothing unusual in that, I suspect that my car tyres have a similar 'product miles', as does my mobile phone, and a lot of the food I eat. What happen is that the final product will be produced at the lowest costs, it is not transported, or processed, more than it needs to be. That is just the economics of manufacturing, Adam Smith wrote about all this in 1776, and it had been going on for centuries before than. The Tesla installation was a marketing stunt and was to stop the grid disconnection due to lack of generation capacity in Southern Australia. I notice that it is now getting an upgrade to 193.5 MWh/150MW. Technically it it does not matter if the storage is centralised or distributed (I wrote about this a few years ago if you remember), it is really down to costs. If it is cheaper to put in storage than a new generation plant, then storage is the way to go. It is all to do with marginal costs, not overall capacity. And Australia is one of the worlds worst polluters per capita, hardly a beacon of 'green' virtue.

And they can discontinue the service if they like, which could work out costly. I am, not sure you are.

Good idea as it is a nerdy detail thing phase balancing.

Where I live there is 6 houses, the 3phase is evenly split between us. One problem with having a PV on a house is using the power evenly. Battery storage makes this easier. As does having a 3phase car charger. May be worth having a 3phase heat pump as well. Worth spending time on diversity calculations as some minor gains can be had there.

This may be of some help. I think it is the latest version. Been a decade since I was doing them, things were more basic then. https://mcscertified.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/MIS-3005.pdf And the MCS estimator https://mcscertified.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/MCS_031_MCS_Heat_Pump_System_Performance_Estimate_Issue-2.1.xlsm

Right, first thing is to let us all know how much oil you use, in litres, not cash. And preferably if you can split the usage into heating and non heating times. This will give an idea if how much is used for hot water (DHW) and house heating (space). If you read up about ASHPs you will notice people saying about over sizing them. This is not a mistake, they perform better when working at about 70% of the maximum rated output. This is quite different from gas and oil heating which generally performs best when at, or close to, maximum output. Floor area can be a bit confusing, there is a formula that allows for livable area and one that is for total area. Livable area (excluded hallways, landings and bathrooms I think) will always be smaller. Also the external wall/door/window area is important, a bungalow, terraced, semi detached and detached will all have different thermal losses. If you are up for a challenge, you can calculate simple losses if you know the U-Value of all the build components.

Think it depends on how accurate you need it. The simple way is to put a heat meter on the output pipe (really just a flow meter and temperature sensor) and an electric energy meter on the input. A cheaper way may be to put 4 temp sensors in. Two for the air temperature either side of the radiator, one on the flow out of the HP and another on the return pipe. That would give extra useful information about how your UFH is performing. That is basically what we have done to your MVHR (I wonder if it is still logging as been left untouched for about 18 months now). A quick Google to refresh my memory shows that: CoP(heating) = T(h) / T(h) - T(c) And CoP (cooling) = T(c) / T(h) - T(c) So maybe only 3 sensors, which is easy to set up. May be worth putting a fan and pump sensors on so that time of day usage is logger. That can be correlated to the electrical energy logger I put in. And then some RH sensors just for a giggle.

And you are not allowed to reuse them as far as I know.

At least we all know who to call when GRP roofing needs doing in your area. Seems they did it in nice, easy to manage, sections. Idiots try to do too much, too quickly. And your main contractor will hopefully learn from this. There is nothing wrong with GRP when done properly. I should last decades.