SteamyTea

Mine haven't. Blaming @pocster as he weed on them when I wasn't looking. Then ran away.

If the person who is benefitting directly does not pay, then we all pay. I still do not understand why I am, in effect, being forced to have a loan, along with meter rental going up, to pay for people that cannot pay their bills.

The ones that have a panel from a domestic fridge as the collector. They frost up and then absorb less, just like a freezer does. Ice has a thermal conductance of 2.25 W.m-1.K-1 at -5°C. Air, at the same temperature, is 24 mW.m-1.K-1

A constant 50W could be useful. But 100W would be very useful. 2 kWh a day is my non E7 usage.

Probably not. But you do not have to use pipework all the way. It is just an airtight conduit that you need. This is why, like PV, it is worth designing it in. For ages I have been wondering how to plumb in (as a retrofit) MVHR. Then realised I only need to go from the loft (where the unit will be) to upstairs. The living room is connected to the landing via the open plan stairs (I (expletive deleted)ing hate this, makes the living room a corridor). As I have a stud wall that runs from loft down to ground floor level, and an airing cupboard with the DHW cylinder in it, directly above kitchen, all I have to do is fit one extract pipe in kitchen to loft, then let the stud wall act as the other conduit for the incoming air.

Was -16⁰C here once. https://www.cornwalllive.com/news/cornwall-news/times-cornwall-recorded-extreme-weather-6532125

Only doubles the flow though, but takes up more space. Bedrooms are one place you want to extract air from. I have never understood why people sleep with windows closed, and heating off, then in the morning, turn the heating on and open the windows 'to air the room'. Too late by then.

MVHR uses relatively small bore pipes and low flow rates. If you really want to shift thermal energy about, and control it better, fit larger pipes. Double the diameter and you quadruple the mass flow rate at the same velocity. Means you can shift 4 times the energy as well. Carefully designed at the start, it need not be visually intrusive. With improved airtightness you have to consider condensation. Think of a airtight plastic box. It can sir there all day and night with no condensation forming, but drop the container temperature a few degrees and the water vapour condensed in the container. This is basically what an airtight house is. To get around this, external air is introduced, this, generally in the UK has a lower absolute amount of water vapour in it than internal air (2 people produce about 4 kg of water vapour a day, dogs a lot more relatively). The old way to keep condensation under control was to crank up the heating, this keeps the water as a vapour, not a liquid. Trouble with this is that higher temperatures mean higher losses, not only through air losses, but also through conductance through walls, floors, roofs, windows and doors. Small houses have a disproportionately higher surface area to volume, so when measured as losses by total floor area, the numbers look bad.

That would be a waste.

Just a case of changing mass to force. Then remembering that force at a distance is torque. And a moment is a place, not a spot in time. And materials fail differently. Holes can reduce forces. CT1 puts it all right.

Not just CO2 though. Wood burners emit particulates at a higher level than diesel engine. Still, everyone I know with wood burners are more than happy for me to come around, in my EURO4 diesel car, and smoke a pack of Marlboro in the front room. They encourage it in fact.

I asked my contact at the installer training centre. They knew nothing about it, had never tested and did not seem interested. I did email Vilnis Vesma about it. He seemed interested, but again, have not heard anything since. The one person I know that had an Ecodan has moved, so can't go and test theirs. All a bit frustrating not knowing whether it is a real problem or a W or Wh problem.

A wood burner is anything but eco friendly.

Isaac Lord is a company in High Wycombe, England. Try googling it and see if you can get in that way. They are retailers.

Used to work in the furniture trade, so spent too many hours in Isaac Lords.

Motor only pulls 0.4A. Inrush current is X1.2 So half amp. There are a number of cable size calculators online that allow for the installation type i.e. buried in insulation. But 0.75 should be fine.

This watering business is showing a great lack understanding of the UK's variable rainfall. Whenever you sow, you will need to water.

Just plant some it will be fine. A good lawn is more than the months you plant it.

Confused. Is this pump connected to mains pressure?

Quick, call for Inspector Barnaby. He is the only man for the job.

CUMSUM is needed. @pocster claims it is terrific fun.

Welcome. Rather than muck about with smart controls that hide the inherent deficiencies, improve insulation and airtightness/ventilation. Make the problem small and you then only have a small problem to solve.

Ah, Gerbiling The sentence that keeps giving.

You still got no friends. Just jugglers and clowns doing tricks for you.

Yes, that makes more sense. My cheap timers are rated at 16A, but when I looked inside, there were 20A replays. Probably why they have lasted at least 13 years now. They turn on the storage heaters and DHW to limit the E7 window to the last 4 hours.