SteamyTea

I just hang around with radio people. Was chatting to one this evening, though he does more on TV these days.

Have a look at A2AHPs. Air to air heat pumps can be very efficient for space heating and some are quite cheap.

Not if you have to top up the vehicle during peak times. I think V2G is for pensioners, not the normal working person. A 7 year old Leaf will only go about 100 miles on a full charge, take half of that for a hot bath and keeping your house warm, then there is not enough left for most rural people. Not as if we are all going to get a new EV with a 90 kWh battery, most will be sub 30 kWh.

At what external temperature?

No idea, and if a LA organised it, then probably 10 times the cost, and it would still be a failure.

They don't do that at the moment, and quite hard to burn a flowerpot, are old cooker.

We could charge, by the kg, for domestic waste collection. A basic allowance if say 7 kg a week, then a £ for every extra kg. If the price is low enough, it should not increase fly tipping. A small token charge should be enough to change people's minds. Packaging, in itself, is a good thing. How many unpackaged TVs would need to be made and shipped to get just one, undamaged one, in a house. Trouble with packaging is the mishmash of materials and lack of recycling facilities.

But you, like me, live in a holiday area. Where you going to go for a change of scenery and something different, Kiev. And many of them don't cost much, driving more gently has made a huge difference to my outgoings.

@Pete lea Have a go at calculating your existing pipe flow rates. https://sciencing.com/flow-rate-vs-pipe-size-7270380.html Then see if an ASHP is viable.

Not to the atmosphere. But we have been conditioned to, as they say now, monetise everything.

That is the problem. I had to explain to a customer (when I was involved in domestic PV), in January, that the reason his system was not very good was because he insisted that it must be installed on the NE facing roof. Was an IT professional, and a complete twat.

I just write code to save data as a *.csv file, then look/analysis it in a spreadsheet. Usually access the RPi with Win SCP.

A quick look at the Thermino data shows it can take a maximum input temperature of 80°C and has the equivalent of a 284 litre water cylinder. So if one assumes an incoming water temperature of 8°C in the winter, then: 4.2 [kJ.kg-1.K-1] x 284 [kg] x 72 [K] = 85,881.6 kJ Convert to kWh 85,881.6 [kJ] x 0.00027778 = 23.86 kWh Now if you are burning though 70 kWh.day-1 of gas, you would need 3 of the TRP-FGW-AVZ-1 To electrically charge them in 4 hours, you need a 17.5 kW supply. Even at 7.5p.kWh-1, I don't think it would make much sense financially, let alone at 20p.kWh-1, which is the more realistic current E7 rate. I think you would be better off with a large, traditional, thermal store of some sort, if you have room for it. There are also thermal and electrical loses to consider, so it may well be easier to up the size of the electric boiler and run that to the batteries are depleted (or close to it). The loses on an empty (cold) battery are lower than a full one. Just seems a very expensive way to coble together a heating system. As @Ferdinand says, find out your heat loses and work on getting them down, and remember that power [kW], energy [kWh] and temperature [K] are not the same thing.

Is there a risk that pollutants can leach out of the coatings? I thought part of the advantage of cast iron is that the surface rust protects the underlying material.

Bits from the radio about seaweed https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b066th2r https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01h2kvg https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0bf7n5y https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m0017k3l https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m000v7px

Welcome This is a tricky one. Not much use if you are building a timber frame place, clad in timber. What you really need to do is find the area that would give you the best cost benefit. I doubt it is laying bricks and blocks. One thing that often gets mentioned in here is coordinating the trades. So maybe a plumbing course is better to give you more flexibility. And you can shop around for good prices on kit. A few have done their own roofs, seems that is not so hard. Carpentry is a huge part of the build, so look at that. I have tried plastering 3 times, I am totally useless at it. But others may be alright. All wet processes are a pain, design them out. Probably save more money not using an architect, they will spend all you have, and then some.

I did onto Dulux Bathroom paint, just scored it up with a blunt Stanley knife. Can't remember what tile adhesive I used, probably something cheap from Tops Tiles, where I got the tiles from. Been on the wall for 14 years now.

Not if all the kinetic energy had been taken out because it was 0 K inside. (Quantum effects will still be there)

Quentin Crisp.

Falmouth https://www.cornwalllive.com/news/cornwall-news/falmouth-beaches-criticised-having-too-7290477

Make some solar thermal panels from it. Has everything you need.

Think it really comes down to volumetric capacity. Smaller volume and you can add more insulation.

I am paying for your energy. You want civil unrest, rubbing our noses in it ain't going to help. When Lizzy becomes PM, she will force all fixed term contracts to be abolished, and then make up the shortfall with your money. The originator of this thread has gone. That is good news. Is the above good enough for you. I would have hated to have bought an EV knowing it will cost 25p to travel a mile. Only costing me 15p.

They will be ok then. Will still have heating, and they can probably easily save 8 MWh. Just turn off the XBox. Where they charging EVs? I just put 50 quid in my car (doubled its value), that is 270 kWh. As I have done 50k miles since October I am too scared to work out the price.

Rather a misleading term. I prefer a binary view in heating. It is either warm enough, or not. It is the 'not' that costs the money. Probably the cheapest method is to directly wire in a kWp of PV and have no control, except an isolator. Then just use the built in flap control to limit the output. When it is not warm enough, accept that external input is needed, or a jacket.