SteamyTea

A system set to PVGIS's optimal angles would yield around 37 kWh/kWp installed, so around 1.2 kWh a day in December and January. Changing the slope angle to 75° would up that a bit to 44 kWh, so 1.4 kWh/day. The power, at any given time, would be pitifully low, probably peaking at 200 W. So the only real way to make use is to have a large array and battery storage. Once you have electrical storage, you can run a heat pump, which at that time of year may effectively double the output. But not every day some days will be better than others. You can get a bit smart by linking a control system to the Met Office (I think they have an API, @TerryE uses it I think) to help predict what you may generate, then use accordingly. All in all, it will be an expensive system, so may be better off thinking about getting a small CHP unit to supplement it. Best to work out your expected loads first, the lower they are the better off you are. My small (50m2) terrace house uses around 13 kWh/day in the winter, purely resistance heating here. I am hoping to get that down to 9 kWh/day this winter, but it is going to be harder that getting down to 13 from 25 kWh/day.

Someone did a few a while back (probably on the predecessor to here). Have you tried LISA?

As you are London based, you probably have a large pile of cash. Wait. Or look a bit further out I used to live in Hertfordshire and Buckinghamshire, but work in London. My commute was usually quicker. Jeremy Hunt used to be in charge of the NHS. 'I may not be a gynecologist, but I know a Hunt when I see one'

I knocked up some secondary glazing a few weeks back. Just cheap styrene sheets, cheap moulded timber, cheap foam W seals, all held together with double sided tape. I have timber framed so just drilled and screwed them in place. Apart from reducing draughts (which is what I wanted) the noise reduction has been dramatic. The neighbour that goes to work at 3 AM is not public enemy number 1 now (though may still squirt some expanding foam up the big bore exhaust). I did this as a proof of concept, may redo them a bit prettier next year, shall see how much energy I save first. I think the 14 windows did not cost me 200 quid.

Welcome. Only if you want to loose all that £60k and have no value added. Making any house low energy is really quite simple, control the air changes and insulate. Most of the rest is bling. If your house is NW facing, does that mean halve is SE facing? UFH requires a lot of insulation under it, around 200mm. Why lime render, if you control the ventilation, why do you want walls that are breathable? Not that lime is, in reality, any more breathable, than cement based render. At least you know cement based sets hard.

I had my old frosty lenses changed to nice, shiny, acrylic ones about 14 years ago. All I can say is that most places are over lit, harsh and painful. Cataracts can affect everyone. So I am happy with With 3W warm LEDs in them. Anything extra is just flash, literally and metaphorically.

You could do a bricklaying course. Not for the trowel skills, but you will get to know a lot of people on it and who is good, and available.

Was he surprised?

Not here it isn't.

This Or this

Going to myself in trouble for posting this up, but it is close to Halloween. I suspect between @pocsterand @Onoff, a small device could be printed. But at 1200 quid to cure the leak, I am tempted to rent one out in my back room

Put food waste into the general (black bin) waste and then the council will send it to the incinerator. Then get some electricity from it. https://suezcornwall.co.uk/what-we-do/energy-recovery/electricity-generation/

Cinders. My Mother told me, when we lived in a cold house, that the Queen had a heated toilet seat.

Works when you have a very small variation in heat load per °C external temperature variation (say 100W/°C), probably kills the CoP once the ASHP is outside of it modulation range (say 450W/°C).

I don't think so. Flow [kg/s] x temperature [K] = power [W] Power [W] x time [s] = energy [J] To heat up stuff you need energy, the faster the energy is delivered, the more powerful the heater, that is the basic of thermodynamics. There may be many temperature sensors added to a system for control and efficiency reasons, but basically if just two are used on the flow and return, and knowing the flow rate, the energy delivered is then known. The room thermostat is then just a device to stop overtemperature. In a very basic system as described above, manual room temperature correction would be initially needed, but once compensation curve is set, then, except in extreme conditions, the system can be left alone. Room and external temperature sensing can be used to help set that curve automatically and change the rate of thermal delivery to help efficiency, but they are not absolutely necessary to get a functioning system. (bit of a cross post with @JohnMo)

Pretty grim isn't it.

There is switched on and ready to go, and switched on and heating. When in weather compensation mode, the difference between flow and return temperature is what tells the unit when to input more heat. The room stats are there to set an absolute maximum, and sometimes minimum, temperature.

Something for Tracy Emin, now she has lost all her female bits. She is one of your local girls.

Poundland, still have a lot of stuff that costs a £

What make is it as it is one of the few solution I have considered to heat my play with an ASHP.

When it comes to shopping around/finding online, I often wonder how much is genuine price increases, dumping overstock, contractural obligations, mismanagement/misunderstanding and finally, piss taking. I usually use that list in reverse order.

Any help.

Same as swimming in the Cornish sea after a small shower. Rained yesterday, today, there were so many swimmers that they used up 2 parking spaces for their clobber. Still, tomorrow it will be empty, like their bowels, eventually.

The window is just hitting the dew point temperature, while also being is the path of humid air. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dew_point You run a risk of condensation forming inside the shower room as colder, external air, will be mixing with warmer, internal air. Remember that we tend to measure relative humidity, not absolute humidity which is the actual mass of water in the air. So while the temperature and AH may seemingly only drop a small amount, it is enough to cause condensation. You can get condensation forming at high temperatures, think of that puff of steam that comes out when you open an oven door. The local air temperature may be 120°C, and the kitchen temp 22°C, but there is enough difference to cause a phase change from vapour to liquid, in a fraction of a second.

This was breaking news this morning. I think our chancellor was set up. https://youtu.be/LmLiEA59FCc