SteamyTea

Two houses, or two wives then. (I am actually not sure what I mean, is this about adding upstairs radiators to the existing ground floor UFH)

That is a good question. Like all good questions, there is not a simple answer as there are several interactions taking place at one time. The simplest answer is that it is down to the power delivery (the W/m2). That can be increased or decreased in two ways, pump more energy in (closer pipes) or raise the temperature (for the same size pipes). In reality though, which is where it gets complicated, are the physical characteristics of the systems. You cannot easily have pipes sitting next to each other as that would need a huge manifold for dozens of pipes to connect to. You cannot have too high a temperature as you would not be able to stand on the floor, and the efficiency of the heat source may suffer. You cannot change the weather, which is very dynamic, so you have to accept some compromise (an emergency fan heater). The temperature difference between the flow and return (in and out of the time) needs to be within a sensible limit (you cannot extract all the energy supplied), this limits pipe diameter and pump size. The more complicated answer is that as temperature rise and fall is not linear, even of it looks like it at small temperature changes. As temperatures rise, so do loses, as it falls, the opposite happens until you get to parity (Laws of Thermodynamics explains it all).

Not heard of any. More to the point, why do you need to know about different types, you have what you already have.

No, it needs to be applied as a hot process. It is not expensive.

Galvanisation

Exactly. There is a certain amount of self healing with galvanising as well. Why it is used so much in the marine environment.

That is an understatement. It is piss poor and needs to be replaced with a Google site search.

That's interesting. The only installation I have looked at closely had the EV on the hit side, which I thought a bit silly.

Not sure if that is sensible from a safety perspective. The idea is that overheated water, or steam even, can easily vent away. There is probably not enough water in the pipe to loose much via convection currents. Realistically, the largest thermal losses are down the drain.

So a vast improvement over last year. https://www.theguardian.com/business/article/2024/sep/03/renewable-energy-auction-windfarms-tidal-power

UVC have a pipe coming out the top that goes to the expansion chamber. I don't think the thermal losses need be any different in a proper installation. I have never had a UVC, but have had combis, and they have been rubbish. With a vented system you do not need them signed off for building control or insurance.

There was a radio comedy play about the financial crisis. It was based in Ireland, so it seems real life is imitating art.

Mine as well. Kind of a poor man's solar thermal.

I just downloaded the OPs pdf file, converted it, and then opened it up. Took all of 5 minutes.

Cost me about £600 to do my Part P. Some areas with skill shortages offer it for less. I would have had to join a professional body, get hold of the testing equipment to do a proper install, but if you are a 'handy' person , then we'll worth looking at it as a possibility. You can then use your own installation as your competence evidence. Then, on free Saturdays, start charging people £400 to fix a light.

Just tried it at https://cadsofttools.com/pdf-to-dwg-online/ Then opened it with LibreCad portable. Something with lines on it was there.

Gloomsbury. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01n2t25

Welcome. There are a couple, or more, people on here with old Landrovers. Between you, you will almost have enough to make a working one. As for blown beads. Work on the airtightness first. While you are doing that, try and find a supplier of them. Seems individuals have had trouble getting them.

There are quite a few free CAD software packages for Windows and Linux, if you have a Mac, tough. Here is just one. https://www.freecad.org/ Or a portable version. https://portableapps.com/apps/graphics_pictures/librecad-portable

I basically filled my airing cupboard up with insulation. Lower thermostat is set so the top of the cylinder is 50°C. The upper thermostat is set to 55°C, but I very really use it. Somewhere on here I posted up a chart showing my mean positional temperatures. Here it is. I thought about this but, for me, it is not worth it, and would only store a small amount of energy anyway. I am a pretty unique case as I rough it on my own, so can put up with a bit of a short shower, or Luke warm bath occasionally. As I am constant trying to save energy, without large capital expenditure, I look at cheap options. I have secondary timers fitted to all three E7 circuits that limit the run time. I have just reset my hot water timer to come on at 4AM and off at 6AM. This will limit the storage to 6 kWh and should give me a bathful in the morning (at about 6AM) without any reheating, which for me, is wasted as losses. I do similar with the storage heaters as I like it warm when I get up, so no point them reaching maximum capacity at 4AM, then cooling, then reheating. I effectively have E4. Just had my water bill in and in the last 90 days have used 20m³. Which is way too much (220 lt/day). Last year I used a lot less, almost half, but it was a strange year last year as I was away a lot more). I justify my high usage as my body aches a lot and no one wants to see a grubby chef, in grubby clothes.

Would it not be easier and cheaper just to pay your Father's fees (assuming he still has the testing equipment). Or does he have a mate that can check and sign off?

I have E7, but a proper 200 lt cylinder with a lower element and thermostat as well as a top element and thermostat. I think yours is about 140 lt. Have you tried changing your DHW usage regime i.e. use it up in the morning, rather than last thing at night. Use less water. You may well find that the standing thermal losses are quite high, and get higher when you increase the temperature. Adding extra insulation to the cylinder will help, as will lapping the pipework. Apart from increasing the losses with a higher temperature, you increase the risk of scalding/boiling, which can cause other problems i.e. hot water going to the F&E tank, thermal protection cutting in, thermal protection valve opening.

I have just been reading about OSB4, which I think meets some airtightness standard or other. Anyone know more than the marketing BS on the websites.

Try it out on a small section and see what it looks like in a years time.

I have used one of these in the past, it worked well. https://www.toolstation.com/tct-sds-plus-electricians-box-cutter/p17695