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Handleless in kitchen termonilogy really means recessed handles where channels are rebated into the carcase and metal trims inserted. Doors close on these trims. The recess that is formed is effectively your 'handle' so it could be argued that it is a bit of a misnomer. Handless kitchens require different carcase construction and door sizing to work so not every company can do it. English companies that mostly make up carcases and buy in off the peg doors have got around it my either putting magnetic push latch or spring activated drawers and removed conventional handles and called it handleless which IMO is just a daft idea. The other option is doors with grooves on the top of the door, also not very clever as there is no grip available on appliance doors. Handleless is not for everyone, especially is one suffers from arthritis. For a well made handleless kitchen, you will have to look at the Europeans, particularly German or Italian kitchens. Not many of them do curved units. This is a typically British thing and the best argument I have ever heard against curved units is from a German manufacturer - Tetra Pak designed a square container for fluids that can take any shape for efficiency and you want to buy cylindrical containers for rigid objects. So aesthetics apart, the case for curved units is weak. They are horrendously expensive as well. Remember, only a fraction (typically 35-40%) of your kitchen price will be furniture so when you compare one supplier to another, you need to look at the relative differences between the furniture costs.

Evolutionary change indeed. 25 year old version. If it ain't broke...

Do you mean the walls it is going against, or the worktop when finished :-). ? This is going to cost you £10. The wall is already right-angled, 'cos one side is boarded out make it so. If you meant that, fork out now my friend.

Yep. It is very easy to be idiosyncratic in the wrong direction, which is fine. But... I think the pricing of interesting houses argues that they are more volatile and tend to be 'not average' both to live in and sell. It can go either way. I think it may help ... if we care ... that it can also be normal if desired.

I would want the cylinder closer to the kitchen. (that is indeed what I am doing) the kitchen hot tap is the one that gets used a lot and waiting ages for the hot water to get there is a pain. Bathrooms get used once or twice a day so less important that they get the hot water as quickly.

Worktop jigs can have different pin holes for different width worktops. Always clamp your jig. Always cut from left to right. Plan your cuts so you'll only ever break out through a chipboard face at the end of the cut NOT the "melamine" face. Routers make damn good edge planers for ordinary Contiboard - jigsaw to within say 3mm of the required cut line then use the router to finish against a clamped fence. Have you a biscuit joining tool or bit for the router? No.20 biscuits too. I was lucky, my chippie mate versed me on routing! Mottled patterns are more forgiving! This is a breakfast bar made in the cheap with standard worktop that had only one rounded edge:

Yeah I tried it with the water running but it didn't make any difference. It doesn't matter if the switch is up or down, the water runs, so no failsafe. I don't know how they work but it's probably scaled up as it's before the water softener. The story here is that I had a T leave the water on at the stop tap when they went away in winter in about 2010, and the result was a leak which caused T to be out of the property fro about 8 weeks, 2 weeks of my time coordinating the repairs, and an 8k insurance claim. Fitting the Surestop is just a way to make sure it is easy for the T to switch off the water, and easy enough that I can put something in the rental agreement for nights away that can be enforcible later. As you say @PeterStarck - that requires it to be reliable. The oldest one I have in nearly 5 years old, but that T is still there so I can't take it out to examine. My current arrangements for new rentals tend to be: 1 - Magnaclean on heating circuit when new rads or a new boiler are installed. 2 - LIFF Limefighter 2 (magnetic not electrolytic which is the Limebeater) and Surestop fitted with switch above worktop or inside cupboard. 3 - Term in the rental agreement that the Surestop be used when away overnight. I encourage them to use it when out for a day, and tell them the story of the Great Leak. I think that requiring Ts to croink around with a stop tap every time they are away overnight would make such a clause unenforcible due to being unreasonable. I know that people have opinions about water softeners. My experience at home in the same geographical area is that a Limefghter 2 made a significant difference when we fitted one. And since they only cost £20-£30 compared to £800-1000 for a boiler it seems a no-brainer. I will need to check which order the things are in in the system. Logically the Surestop has to be on the mains side if it is to be a stop tap replacement. Perhaps some thought needed there and to accept that it is a secondary stop tap (and perhaps go for the remote switch but non-WRAS version which would save a few £££). Ferdinand

Yep!

Thanks for the welcome A couple of photos of my view. The new house will be similar but clearly from lower down. It's on quite a steep slope so will be split level. Going up to bedroom from entry and down to lounge. The bedroom has a small inset balcony