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Suggestion, When you meet up with him, show him the paper where they say you have to remove 'his' space, but explain that you don't think that's very fair, and ask if he would mind ,that, rather than delete 'his' space, could WE move it over so it is parallel to his driveway. Anyone half reasonable would settle for that I would think, plus, you are now on his side, by ignoring the rule you were gave to remove the space, and instead have simply moved it a bit.

Not sure if this has been mentioned before, but here is a house, 3D printed in 24 hours

Right, have had a little play this morning and produced two charts. One is the correlation between the invariant of external air temperature and the other against time. I picked these two because we have no control over them and can therefore be used to both correlate and draw implications. There is really not enough data to draw very precise data for the long term, but as the floor surface, slab internal and room air temperature are amazingly stable (basically within the accuracy of the sensors) the 11°C external temperature swings that have recently happened are a good indicator of overall performance. As Jeremy a already said, the ASHP is coming on at around 3AM for about 3 hours. This fits in with the coldest part of the day, though may not be the best time to start heating. That depends on lifestyle and how you like your house heated (It would suit me as I like a warm evening). The slab, on average, has the highest temperature at about 2PM until 1AM. Room air temperature peaks at about 4PM. On the Correlations, everything is pretty flat except the Mean ASHP Flow Temperatures. This is to be expected because if the outside air is warmer, the ASHP will be working less often, rather than delivering a lower flow temperature. This will force the mean flow temperature downwards. I shall try and have a better look later, but life got in my way this morning and only just managed to get home again to pick this up.

Just thinking about this, He could move his van over 3' or so, would that help you much,? He maybe only parks exactly there as that is the marked space, he could move over a bit and still leave clear access to his driveway.

Ok, for a 'spanner only' ( no soldering needed ) modification......... You'll want one of these ( compression 22mm x 3/4" centre tee ) One of these ( 22mm x 3/4" bent flexi ) and One of these ( EV mounting bracket and wrap around clamp ) if you don't already have one. Cut a short piece of garden hose and connect it to the heating pipework via the drain off cock ( DOC ) next to the PRV pump. Put the hose into the pump and open the DOC to a rate that the pump can handle and use that to evacuate the water from the heating circuit. Open all of the rad air bleed nipples to allow the remainder to drain, starting at the top of the house and work down. When dry, go back around and close all the bleed nipples, ( making sure not to miss one ). Strip the EV etc out of the attic, and cut / remove / cap the pipework and redundant equipment accordingly. Cut into the 22mm return pipework under / to the side / or above the boiler where most convenient. Fit the compression tee linked above. Fit the flexi to the EV, hand tight, and work out where the EV will fit and mount it so the flexi reaches the tee without being stressed. When happy with the dry fit, strip the flexi back off and apply 20 turns of PTFE tape the male thread and tighten it into the tee. The other end of the flexi should have a rubber seal so only needs to go a bit over hand tight. Do not over tighten. Check the secondary EV for .75 - 1 bar pre charge BEFORE refilling the system. Fill to 1.5 bar and test for leaks. When satisfied that all is A1 and holding tight, run the heating for an hour to get everything nice and warm and recheck. If happy, re-treat with 2x inhibitor and go open a beer ??. edited to add : with a house and system this size, it may be a good idea to cut a pair of 22mm gate valves into the flow and return to isolate the heating system from the boiler room. That way, any further maintence can be done without draining the whole system and without losing the inhibitor.

What material you going with? I understand that with steel, another more ductile material needs to be introduced for the flashings, which then does not give the traditional appearance. I've gone with Aluminium in the end (was initially going with Colourcoat Urban), and here's mine (in progress): My details a little more complex than it needs to be, with the extra 45 degree chamfer profile on top. I lined the outside of the up stand with celotex, but this was too wide for the roof light mount, so needed the 45 degree angle to bring the width back down to the width required by the mount.

Yes, it's all about "safe zones". Once you have fixed an accessory to the wall, you can run cables horizontally or vertically from it, but NOT at an angle. It's quite common with a TF house with a service void to just run cables around the room at socket height *. It's a lot less common to do the same with a light switch as that normally goes up, but there are plenty of cases where running a light feed horizontally from one switch to the next is a good idea. * I had a big argument with the joiner on a job last year. He was trying to tell me I must run socket cables up the wall, along above the ceiling, then back down to the next socket. I had to educate him about safe zones including NEVER put screws through the plasterboard at the same height as sockets because there might well be wires there. That was the gist of his argument that if I ran them horizontally he might put a screw through them. It still bugs me that no other building trades seem to have heard about the concept of safe zones for wiring.

I had a crack at something like this on an old shed.....with CANS. Did the walls and floor: The floor: One of the STUPIDEST things I've ever done by far.