At long last it's decided we're going with the taps to the wall. This will make the pump motor more inaccessible. The logic is that we will very likely need (want?) to replace the taps. The pump motor "might" give up. Access too is a big decider. Having gone to all the trouble to cast the pocket in the slab so the bath floor is level with the bathroom floor it seems silly to put taps in the way of swinging your legs over. Cost too is there as in we're going to use what we've bought!
So this will be the final configuration:
I've gone for one of the kits that make the taps easily removable. Basically a st/st boss fits into the bath then the tap(s) fit into that. With flexi pipe on the taps a quick Allen key job sees you lifting the taps out.
You then add the adapter top part to the tap. Slip it over the bosses on the bath and tighten the Allen screw that engages with the groove on the boss:
You can see how the flexi pipes will attach to the taps and pass up through the boss for removal:
This shows the tap on the left with the adaptor and on the right "standard" they make the tap sit a bit higher overall by about 10mm:
I had to enlarge the hole in the bath with my homemade "2 in 1" Starrett adapter, scary in case I slipped
It's 2mm over on the OD:
The main issue I have is where the adapter bosses sit. On the underside its not that level so there's gaps under the nut. So looks OK:
But from another angle:
Not sure on the fix.....cut some rubber for washers or just plenty of CT1 and leave to set?
Cheers
Only have one door that you open up. Keep the rest locked no matter how many times the plumber asks.
Foam on the handle so when it swings open and hits a wall it won't get damaged.
Ok, well excuse the mess and the ensuite door that is sat under the stairs, moved in on Saturday but some trades still doing final pieces.....
I need to give the glass a good clean, and I m having a white powder coated plate to go just above the top tread to hide the joist:floor build up that needs to go on.
+1 on Declan's suggestion. We also made up a double ramp covered in an old piece of carpet and 2 U sections lined with Hassian as uprights and an L section insert for the door head. If we had workers carrying stuff in and out, then these were used to cover the frame and act as protection against anything banging into our Internorm frame.
Also have a lockable shed or container onsite for storage, and set a policy that the house isn't to be used as storeroom for outside tools and equipment. So only stuff that needs to go in and out goes in and out.
I agree. They have a habit of being rather "clunky" and "laggy". 360 ceiling mounted probably offer the best solution for personal lighting as they have a good field of detection throughout the room.
Youll also need lux control otherwise your lights are going to come in in the daytime when you don't need them.
Dont forget that you then have the added issue of "on time". What will trigger the "off"? Unless you've got some form of intelligent lighting system where the "state" is known by various inputs you're pretty much restricted to a timer. I promise you whatever time you choose will be wrong a lot of the time! Life is just not that defined.
I remember putting a pir in our downstairs loo years ago to control the light. It worked great until you went for a "long dump" you ended up having to wave your arms around to get the bloody thing to trigger again!
Day 1 of roofing, took best part of the day to actually get the trusses on site. But at least it's a start!
Roger in place as always to offer a reference of scale ???