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There was a warning about that back in 2005: ...the less mitigation we do now, the greater the difficulty of continuing to adapt in future. Strong and early mitigation has a key role to play in limiting the long-run costs of adaptation. Without this, the costs of adaptation will rise dramatically. ...it is already very clear that the economic risks of inaction in the face of climate change are very severe. It is still possible to avoid the worst impacts of climate change; but it requires strong and urgent collective action. Delay would be costly and dangerous. Stern Review final report What does he think now? Given that we are already into dangerous territory where tipping points may be close, the agreed targets of the Paris Agreement – well below 2 °C and efforts towards 1.5 °C – require net zero by 2050. Breaching of those targets involves very serious risks of outcomes which would be catastrophic for billions of people ...although it is late, it is not too late to make a profound difference to the prospects for future generations. Wise and purposive action can not only drastically reduce the risks but also lead us to a new growth path that is much more attractive than what went before ...the cost of inaction far outweighs the cost of action. Indeed, we should speak in this context of investment rather than cost. The Growth Story of the 21st Century

Yes. You are overdoing it. And another completely unnecessary new thread, whereas you should have just carried on in the existing one!!!! I have suggested this a number of times, but you seem intent to ignore the polite nudges.

Spineless, and likely incompetent assholes, and the project will benefit from their absence.

The black ducts are for the 2x rotary isolators, 1 per heat pump.

Days whizzing past like hours atm, sorry! I have pics of the external stuff too, just having to go bloody resize the pics so I can upload.

I've always used a physical template in thin plywood. It is an expensive item to get wrong.

My sink came with something similar:

Plenty on here have calculated and ended with huge numbers. The period of time when you get the heat gains is pretty short, and generally solar gain. Just get a small unit and run it longer. If you are wanting to cool with limited solar gain (it's just hot outside) you are only cooling less than 10 degs, so listen to @G and J about realistically sizing.

I appreciate what you are saying. A common complaint on BH is about SE's over engineering founds or say BC coming out and saying they need to be much deeper. For all. SE's don't deliberately over engineer your founds, if they did it would be a lack of duty of care not least. They have to balance what information is available against the risk. Often the reference point is say the NHBC regs, maybe BC regs. These in lots of cases can be very conservative. Often a Client has spent little time or money on even understanding the ground, the trees (species and height not least), looked at the local and wider topography, possible perched water table, the topography and where ground water may be flowing form and to. @Bonner if you are serious about buying a site that may have "issues" then you need to find a good SE that can help you. I have commercial Client's that keep me on a "retainer". They can phone me up for a 30 min chat for free, it usually ends up much more as we touch base, ask about family and so on, then get back to business, it's good fun. If I need to chip in and commit in writing then I charge a fee, which they are happy to pay as they appreciate the value I bring. Over time I teach them and they can progress under their own steam.. it might seem to the cynical I'm doing myself out of work.. but the more successful they are, the other parts of the design come my way. Now in terms of trees. The key thing is to learn about how they grow, different root depths, types of roots and how they influence the soil depending on soil type. Next is to understand ground water and typical soil profiles in the areas where you may wish to buy a plot. @Bonner Here is a play. Sometime it's best not to be discrete when pitching for a plot! If the plot is a bit blighted you figure out you own solution, don't tell anyone. Put you own value on it but publicise potential issues so your competition backs off! It also brings the seller to the table to spell out what challenges the plot presents. If they are that nosey and raking about about on BH then it's fair game? OK how does that apply to a first time self builder wanting to buy a plot. In the current market there are fewer plots with "clean hands", the ones available often command a premium. The ones with mucky hands are often avoided by developers, but they present a great opportunity to self build. They go a a lower price, but if you don't want to loose you shirt then you need to find say an SE like me or really know your onions. Your best bet is probably not me !, try and find someone local first. You need to find a local SE or a designer that really knows their stuff. Now the fee is going to be more, but a good designer will make sure they wash their face fee wise and will steer you towards the right price to pay for the plot.

I’ve wrestled with this one, but I calmed down when I thought about the fact that the power of the smallest unit was similar to the heating power needed to maintain 21°C internal when it is -3°C outside. At that point i concluded that the smallest unit will more than do. Bit like our ASHP actually.

@jack Thanks for answering my questions. With the help of everyone on here, I feel happier moving forward with an A2A unit

After the advice you gave I believe I have a clearer idea of what is required. Are you able to post some pics of the preferred method you would use in my wall type? Agreed! The areas most affected areas are the ground floor (main living area) and the top floor (3rd floor, single large craft room). How would I calculate the amount of heat that needs to be removed? Or a resource I can use to help with this? I have historic data of internal/external temp and humidity.

I'd feel really nervous about how this is going...ditto for your hob post.....how can you confirm the measurements are "right" if you don't have measuring positions, same equipment, all the facts about what can and can't be done...? In contrast out fitters came to template (physical sheet material took circa 2 hours for kitchen and utility) and that was the point at which we discussed finer detail such as how far back tap was etc. From that point in it was their measurements; their job to match slab to the measurements; their risk. We were never asked to "sign off" other than confirming the slab we had chosen. Are they actually asking you to confirm the drawings or are you acting out of caution? Btw very similar sinks (Franke) 5mm overhang all round (no accessories on sink ledge). Our old place was closer to flush (was indeed a stonemason who branched out into worktops) ....we prefer the larger over hang as, to us, it appears more finished.

Few ways to look at flow rates. 1. Determine loop length and set flow rate 2. Auto adjust actuators, these read flow and return temp and set flow rate to achieve to pre programmed differential temperature. 3. Mine are set fully open - the highest flow rate (by reading the flow meters) are tweaked down, similar to that as discussed by @Nickfromwales. I have also further adjusted to get room temp close to where I want. Wouldn't get too hung up on exact flow rate for each length, open flow meters fully. Set circulation pump to achieve close to 2 to 2.5L/min and leave it at that. Then adjust any loops that are over 2.5L/min down with the flow meters. Your thermostats will do the rest.

Sounds like an deveoping outbreak of common sense. Ie, adapt. Sadly, we will have no money left to adapt after spending it all trying to stop it.

Any advice regarding forward/backward positioning of an induction hob ? I attach the template drawing which has a hob cutout 503mm wide for a 526mm hob in 655mm wide 30mm quartz. Plan says cut out goes 95mm from front edge and then 57mm from the back edge. We were thinking push the hob back so the extractor in the wall unit above works most effectively - are we over doing it ? is there any reason to make the gap at the back larger ? Will be cut out from a single piece with no join - so hopefully 57mm quartz strip at the back is wide enough not to break or crack ?

But doesn’t each loop need a different flow rate depending on lengths?

So I have three zones. Heat source is valiant ecotec boiler. According to the Salus I have to have the flow metres fully open and the let the actuator do it magic. If that’s the case my concern is the the flow rates on the manifold and what they should be set to for all three zones

My measurements... So now can see there is a 'cut back' on the wall section, so the 227 reveal has to be added to 643 = 870. But at the left hand wall the worktop has to be 648.5 or 5.5mm deeper to reach the wall. Seems odd. The wall section thay have as about 1.5mm less than the actual of 870mm - a reasonable allowance perhaps of 1.5mm short of the window frame ? But the wall section on the far left they have a worktop depth of 640.3 but the actual is 648.5 - an unreasonable gap of 8mm between back edge and the wall. No reason for this unless they can only cut right angle corners - which surely cannot be true as some people would have angled worktops by design. (Anyone know if the saws they use are like band saws/jig saws, or big circular saws that can't change directions ?)

I I think these are the type of screws for hangers etc. https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/product/simpson-tx20-csa-connector-screws-50mm-x-35mm/17499?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17347847741&gbraid=0AAAAADfLLCp7Mywl_VK9JlivX3AWSyoTk&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk5nVBhDiARIsAHNGqadLNGLJMo6ttMmHRe1au_g_ycT8PQaa09USMbr3oTc-UsjKuZZcrDoaAqAKEALw_wcB Normal screws are not suitable, these have a shoulder to fit the hole.

By the way the sink corners have radii of curvature given by the manufacturer which I looked up when they came to template. For the utility it is 35mm radius, and for the kitchen 25mm radius. For the bowl width and length they have gone with 1mm less than the manufacturers specified dimensions - so in theory should be 0.5mm beyond the edge of the bowl all around. They did tell me the cutting would be done on a CNC machine, so should be a very close reproduction of the dimensions fed into the machine.

I don't understand why they have not provided diagrams that clearly show the measured position of the walls/perimeters with the planned dimensions and positioning of the worktop super imposed onto it. That is the obvious way to allow a customer to buy off a drawing. When they were here they commented that there would be a 10mm gap at the sides of the window frame so it was just as well we were tiling the sides. That is why I have focussed on checking the utility piece in particular. I have used a machine cut piece of board and the edge of a spirit level to to form the planned position of the straight front edge of the worktop. This shows me (using spacers to measure) that the 5mm overhang will be 5mm at one end increasing to 7mm and then falling again to 4.5mm at the far end because there is a small misalignment - but visually unnoticeable - of the front face of cupboards/appliance bays. The right angle on the cut board, checked with a set square, shows me the long edge, if cut to 90deg will taper somewhat away from the wall and I will end up with an 8mm gap on that side near the window where the reveal isn't straight. Tiles will just about cover.

There are metre markers written on the pipe, but doubt you’ll be lucky enough to see both on each loop….. Balancing is easy, just match the flow rates by manually winding down the faster flowing loops until you see the sluggish ones waking up a bit. Needs patience.

That’s not enough, as hardened screws shear very easily as they have near zero ‘give’, and the demand on them is considered dynamic due to wind / snow / heat / cold etc.

I was told, if using screws, use partially threaded screws with solid stem at the top.