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Robin Clevett has a video on Lindab gutter install. Set the brackets so they do not clash with joints or outlets. Get the lengths up with a small gap between them so they don't foul on each other when fitting. Make sure you are happy before clipping into the brackets. It doesn't slide like plastic stuff.

The die hard anti renewable zealot will include as "cost of net zero" things like the distribution network costs even though not all of them are due to renewables. Some are simply due to the need to renew and upgrade 50 year old infrastructure.

How would running these pipes around the house benefit? I can't see how it would shorten or simplify the routes unless I've missed something obvious?

I wonder if there is an industry initiative to offer these low rates for BEV charging. It may get some chargers installed and targets hit, but has nothing to do with actually owning a BEV or PHEV.

Illustrated on page 15 here. https://europeangutters.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Lindab_assembly_rainwatersystem_EN.pdf KFK grips the gutter from below and around as a big hand might. The gutter fits tightly in the KFK bracket. The illustration shows the back edge of the gutter against the top flange of the KFK; the rolled front edge of the gutter lodged in the hook at the front of the KFK. Imagine a gorilla hand grippng the gutter from below. The roof is not involved. The gutter is simply tight in the KFK bracket. The brackets not attached to anything are just as tight on the gutter. Thx, ... P.

The EV is the problem we have with agile as our charger isn't smart so we could end up charging at more expensive times. The wife isn't going to be tracking agile prices to know when to plug the car in! A mate is using Sigenergy AI in tandem with agile in and out and reckons he's making £70/month. Not sure how good eleccy trading is for battery longevity?? Until I realised that AI and agile weren't compatible with our EV charger I looked at the Solis AI tool and that factored in battery degradation cost in deciding whether to carry out a charge/discharge trade.

Poorly worded. The house is as airtight as I can make it within BR standards without going full Passive House. What I meant was that achieving near perfect levels of airtightness and absolute Passive House levels of insulation wasn't my primary driver. A system that runs silently in the background and I can't hear any whirring or clicking sounds was what I was after. Ended up going for the 90mm ducts on the recommendation from HSL towards that goal.

I'm guessing ( guessing because I don't know what KFK fascia brackets are ) I solved a similar 'tightness' issue by re-seating the brackets so that the gutter could be mounted in the same way that their (Lindab) extensive video support suggests. Is the tightness caused (in part) by the gutter being fitted under the already tiled roof? I had to take a row of roofing tiles off to give us some more room to work.

So question, instead of through the house, why not around the house, buried in trench then though wall to manifold. Would certainly do the manifold in room M1.2 in 28mm. Are you intending to run as a single or 2 zone system?

Hi, The gutter is tight in the KFK fascia brackets. Managed to install the first section yesterday afternoon, after more than an hour fighting with it. Wrapped lengths of paracord around to pull the gutter sides together. Too tight to slide longitudinally for positioning. I don't want to risk loosening the brackets on the fascia. Therefore think of applying 1" ratchet straps to squeeze tighter than the paracord. Eg. https://www.truckingdepot.com/1-inch-heavy-duty-endless-loop-ratchet-strap Hoping that allows longitudal positioning and helps with installing the remaining 3 sections. Nothing about this in the manual. https://europeangutters.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Lindab_assembly_rainwatersystem_EN.pdf Anyone solved the problem? Comments? Suggestions? Thanks, ... Peter E.

This is them sketched by me on an earlier layout plan. Ignore the pipe layout and manifold positions on that plan, this was an overlay to show my proposed position of the M1 manifold and the omission of the M2 manifold in the middle, along with routing of the supply/returns. Where the omitted manifold is shown there, the supply/returns need to turn up out of the lower floor, ascend by 600mm then turn back into the Kitchen floor. The 600mm vertical section will need to be contained in a battened out wall.

What sort of leak are you trying to fix here? A major pipe break seems to be discussed, by the measures for monitoring and stopping. But the drip type leaks are the more likely and could go unnoticed for months with any of the flow methods above. So you may need to define more about what you want to monitor and prevent. For me the drip every couple of days is way more likely and least easy to monitor for, unless you are looking at local humidity levels under the kitchen, utility sink units etc. Major leaks way less likely. But pretty easy to monitor and have a valve close, but never likely to be utilised and maybe the valve stuck tight when they are needed.

Doesn't acoustic performance come from being airtight - assuming you are talking building envelope - have a hike noise travels through it, no noise leaks in. If it's not a good level of airtight, why waste money on MVHR? Do a MEV or dMEV on demand system with acoustic and humidity control vents.

Oh I’m being slack tbh . The 3d engine is complete apart from infinite extras I could add . M5 ultra arrived yesterday. I’ve promised myself not to transfer anything over to it until I’ve made my video . So I’ve set a hard stop forcing me to do video - but been on other special projects ( not related to Avalon ) using Claude of course - so expect a separate post about that soon .

Where are your flow and return pipes running to and from - do you have a route planned?

Thanks This is the salient point. Seems the Low Carbon cost is 56 quids, so less than the individual prices for Distribution, Transmission and the the Operating Costs. A £ a week.

I find I have this, which someone else recorded. VID-20260921-WA0000.mp4

Saw the below and this thread came to mind. All been quiet here. How's it going? "I don't code any more" AI music/video

If your water supply pipes are highly insulated, including the benefit of being underground, then they are unlikely to freeze. My outdoor pipes (4) all survived the winter. One froze at the tap but that was due to 1m of exposed pipe and a brass tap. Depends on how cold and for how long of course. BUT I'm not guaranteeing it for you!

It's not as difficult as you seem to think, and AI seems to be telling rubbish. No 90°corners: it easily curves 90 or 180. Fitting with insulation above it is just wrong. You can set it on top then screed it, or put it in special floorboards. Or painstakingly depress it into the pir. Or use eps as a top layer as I think you could tread it in. What floor finish will you have? Ducts are not only unnecessary but counterproductive. The 'highways' as they seem to be called are both flow and return, so it is not all at peak temperature. Norwich is too far, but anyone in SSE is welcome to some of the huge amount of oversupply of pipes we were specified, I think 40 to 60m long. Not insulated, as they should not be except your short run from heat pump to manifolds.

It’s going to end up in tears, just accept that in freezing temps you’re actually never going to use this in reality Drain down and mothball for the arse of winter is best here imho.

We should have that issue resolved. Let me check.

Agree with Tetrarch that right at the very front or right at the back are both the weak spots. Tight to the front lip you get glare when you're sitting across the room, and right at the back you just light the splashback and leave the front of the worktop in your own shadow. Somewhere around 50 to 150mm back from the front edge of the wall unit, ideally with the light angled slightly towards the wall, usually gives the most even spread. A few things that make a bigger difference than people expect: Use an aluminium profile with an opal diffuser. Without one you get rows of dots reflected in gloss or quartz worktops, and the profile also helps with heat so the strip lasts longer. If the units have a light pelmet, sit the profile just behind it so the strip itself can't be seen from the table or sofa. Go for a high density or COB strip, around 3000K to 4000K, with a CRI of 90 or more so food and worktops look natural. Plan the driver position and cable routes before the wall units go up. Getting a feed to each run afterwards is the fiddly bit, and a driver in an accessible cupboard makes it easy to swap later.

How is there a correlation between these? MVHR should run silently in the most airtight envelope possible.

The insulation thing intrigued me too. I asked AI, which told me that PIR is great at stopping heat from travelling downwards, but isn't so good at preventing it travelling sideways through the PIR boards and that the sleeving on the MLCP pipes somehow performs differently! Who knows. Not me that's for sure. I do know that I have to be able to create 90° bends halfway along the pipes, to transition as needed without fittings.