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If it's a 100-year old pipe, personally, I'd be more concerned with having a potential long run of lead pipe supplying your property and supplying lead-contaminated water for your morning tea for years... The risk of the neighbour damaging the pipe while building an extension seems like a minor issue compared to the former. And yes, get both replaced with plastic-fantastic and re-located, as Spinny said. Might even do it on the cheap.

What johnmo said. Its cost of windows, plus duty (not sure of rate) cost of shipping plus the same duty rate. Add up the windows, duty, shipping, duty, then add vat to cumalative total. Plus pay an agent to clear it through customs for you. ( careful with finding an agent, plenty preying on the gullible) Plus anything gets brokrn or damaged, thats your problem. Dont let me put you off. Beeen importing product for years, but never glass!

Hi! In a bit of a rush as our LVT is coming on Monday. Our door installers have left the floor area under the door open and there’s a cavity there, and a tiny bit of dpm under the window. My intention is to fill the cavity with PIR kingspan foam boards, with a cavity closer on the top and a dpm tucked under the window one. Is this correct and can anyone draw me a detail? (Where does the dpm go?) Do I need to put some mortar down? The LVT installers will be doing a self levelling screed on top. We took out all the rubble here. Internal block with some membrane on top, cavity, new window with some membrane under. It’s about 10cm deep.

We're not PH level, but very well insulated with UFH in a 70mm slab over Hanson Jetfloor. We have a total of 12 circuits grouped in 7 thermostatically controlled zones. This enables us to set and maintain comfort levels to suit the use of each zone, and for relevant times of day. Surely, a single loop/zone risks losing such control, even if you could deliver even heat distribution across the entire circuit/slab?

Would check your tax liability when you import, will need to VAT and import duty, not sure of the rates, may not be as cheap as you think

It was nearly a week. Def give them a poke. I'm not convinced that automatic systems for moving tariffs works brilliantly. It needed manual intervention (just a call to customer services) to get my export sorted. It was stuck on "waiting for meter readings" when they were already getting them and the guy could see they were. He just clicked a button and it unstuck.

It took a couple of days after the switch for us to move onto the EV tariff. As mentioned above, once we'd switched the 13p export rate showed up as an export option. All good so far and be even better once they've accepted the export payments

I think I answered on your previous thread, but have a look at Allan Bros' Alu Clad offering (made in Denmark).https://www.allanbrothers.co.uk/ab-product/alu-clad-timber-windows/ I probably mentioned that I got a long way towards an order only to find that they had given me the lead time for their UK-produced timber windows, which was about half the wait time for the alu-clad at the time. Had I not been in a rush I would not have minded. It's worth double-checking, though, that they are quoting the lead time for the right range.

Many of us with passive-type slabs treat the whole thing as one zone. That said, there could be a benefit to at least trying to keep each loop to one or a couple of rooms with similar heating needs. That way, you can tweak per-room heating by adjusting flow rates at the manifold. You'd do that entirely passively - tweak the flow rates when you first move in to get the room temps you want, then probably never look at the manifold again. As it happens, running all loops completely open worked fine for us. The one carpeted room downstairs is a little cool in winter, but it isn't used that much, and when it is, it's generally the kids gaming or watching TV, so it heats up fast enough. I haven't touched our manifold in over a decade. As @torre says, there's probably an advantage in keeping all loops about the same length. I think each loop in our system is nominally 100 m long (one might be a little shorter).

I think you'd struggle to pump through a much longer small diameter pipe and even if you could, most of the heat would be dumped into your screed in the earlier part of the run so heating would be very uneven. I agree you can ignore zoning exactly to individual rooms and not much point trying to control their temperature separately, but you'll still need a manifold and ideally similar length loops to even out the heat distribution and keep flow through the pipes easier.

I believe for 16mm pipe, loops should not exceed 100m length. About 16 sqm ? - have I got that right for 150mm spacing ?

There are lots of loopcad layouts here on BH with room-by-room loops. Figure heat loss per room etc... Now supposing I have PH-level insulation and a thickish slab - can I just slather my slab below the screed with a regular loop design, ignoring the individual rooms? My thinking is that concrete/screed is a good thermal conductor and, for that reason, I won't really be able to control the temperature in individual rooms anyhoo. The screed will pretty much all be at the same temperature, and the heat output to the individual rooms will be governed by that temperature, whatever I try to do? p.s. my place has 3 rectangular slabs roughly the same size.

Can I ask how long they had you on their standard variable tariff before moving you to the EV rate? My switch went over yesterday and still showing variable. App says I have a smart meter so I assume its been able to communicate with it.

yeah....I had to wait until my switch went through. Initally I only had the 3p option but once I was showing as an EDF customer it showed me the 13p option.....have only just done this yesterday so still plenty time for it all to go wrong. EDF advise upto 4 weeks to have it all confirmed.

I called Walraven and they don't actually stock those particular brackets, I spoke to a very helpful chap and by coincidence he needed the same bracket himself and randomly found a pair of them in the bargain bin in Toolstation, however I can't see them listed on their website. I think I'll have to find some suitably wide angle metal and fabricate a wider bracket in the garage.

@James1234 , it you want these re-uploaded to the post after you've removed your details from them, please let me know. Otherwise, I assume you're happy just leaving them deleted.

I know this has been discussed in the past, but I wanted to ask if anyone had recently investigated sourcing triple glazed aluminium or aluminium timber clad windows from Europe. We are currently lined up for a mixture of Velfac / Norskken, but the 50k spend and the recent "Oh, the price has increased emails" is now getting me thinking whether to have another shop around attempt.

Depending on type of farm, he may have a big load. No idea what our peak demand used to be but our bill was over £15,000 a year, 5 years ago with most demand in two 4 hour periods each day. Our stand by generator was 70 KVA and a full load would make that blink.

@Oz07 Here is our wall light for your consideration. Up and down light beam width adjustable via flaps. Fitted with two smart bulbs allowing dimming, CCT, RGB, Effects, or even sound driven. Hopefully covers the full gamut from tasteful to tasteless... https://www.corston.com/en-gb/collections/paintable-wall-lights (As you might spot the plasterer managed to slightly crown the wall where the fitting is, so I am going to have to put some painters mate or something in to seal the light gap with the wall. As ever - you can't get the building staff.)

Oh that's a good call - neighbour had the same issue with the hinges on bottom opening bathroom window - it had worn so much that the window wouldn't shut unless you pushed it upwards from outside - on a second floor window that wasn't practical On the plus side they were relatively easy to identify, cheap to purchase and easy to fit

The service cable is what connects the transformer to the user. So one service cable at the moment. What they are saying is they are not permitting a second property to connect to this transformer without upgrading it. I would question that. Here in our road, we have a 100KVA transformer connected to 8 properties, and a 50KVA transformer connected to 4 propeties. So why they are only allowing one property to connect to a 50KVA transformer does not make sense to me.

The sliding nylon/pvc/plastic blocks that carry the hinges will have worn away, causing the opener to not be pulled into the frame properly. Happened to us on a regular top and bottom hung pvc window that was used a lot (cat access)

Importing on one phase then trying to export on another phase could lead to a bit of a bang. Would need to have some reliable switching of the battery between phases and youd likely need to speak to your DNO to get a second MPAN

Timber framed house, on shallow foundations, on a hill, on clay... It moves... What are my options for installing new doors (front and back, composite) so that when the house moves, they don't all twist and bind up? 20mm gap all round and compriband? Fixings at the top and bottom only? Give me ideas people...

Our BC and Warranty people have asked us to bung the outlet in the chamber just before the private drainage system and fill up the whole system. Put a stick in the inspection chamber with a mark on it and measure if there is a drop after 30 minutes. So, we will be using a lot of water.