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Yup. Even 1/4 - 1/2 a turn back off will cause it to leak. Needs taking off, cleaning, re-taping, and doing again if so.
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There are a few dotted about, but nothing I can see from the house. The other night was very still, looking at the grid voltage at the time of the export event it was very low also.
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Is there truth, as I've had it said, that you can't turn it back again if it's not sitting quite right? I thought the idea was that the fibres expand when the pressure reaches them. And I have turned some back without problems.
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Insurance for garage demolition by family
saveasteading replied to Jane W's topic in Self Build Insurance
I don't recall the demo notice being that complex. It was online and a matter of fact thing. I'd a notice of intent so that tge authorities were aware, and might have a lot. Insurance and bco are a different matter. Demolition should be seen as dismantling, to minimise risk. It is risky because things can move suddenly and collapse. Are you competent to this as diy? What is the construction? You need insurance. Also you should write up a method statement and risk assessment. If you can't write it down, you haven't thought it through enough. It's not necessarily formal: Put a fence round it and tell the neighbours, the children to keep out, and lock the dog indoors. How to do it How do you stop it falling over. Access and working at height safely Never stand under it Safety wear. Etc -
Why we need "Net zero"
scottishjohn replied to Beelbeebub's topic in Environmental Building Politics
I will take a referral --and see how it looks -
Why we need "Net zero"
scottishjohn replied to Beelbeebub's topic in Environmental Building Politics
then I am going to guess you do not have many wind farms close to you I can see 5 windfarms on the horizon from my front window -in the distance ,so its like watching kiddies windmills on a beach and another 2 big ones to be built within 20miles of me very soon --which i will also be able to see i will look into it though-providing it does not up set my current contract -
PTFE tape, applied so turning the tap in doesn't unravel the tape, and stop turning it into the fitting before it gets completely fully home. 21 full turns on a 3/4” thread should be Ok. The thread is 3/4” BSP, none of the threads you’ll see are metric ; 1/2” (15mm) > 3/4” (22mm) > 1” (28mm). Check you're not cross-threading the tap into the plastic fitting, as it should be straight. PTFE is forgiving, so even if out a bit you should be leak free.
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Use a thread sealant, I like to use Loctite 55. Some versions of that tap come with PTFE tape to seal the thread.
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Basic question - should there be a rubber washer / seal on this connection on the tap to the HDPE connection (would have thought it would be supplied). Thread dia is 25mm and as the photo shows, even when just nipped up, it’s off centre.
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The same principles apply but you already have the advantage of lots of density. What can you hear at present that you want cut out? Footsteps, voices, thumping bass?
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Insurance for garage demolition by family
Russell griffiths replied to Jane W's topic in Self Build Insurance
If you own a plot you should have self build insurance from the day you purchased the plot if someone walks on to your plot(even if not invited) and hurts themselves you could potentially be liable. take out a self build policy and check it covers you for demolition. - Yesterday
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That's a strange one - any obvious reason for this rule? It isn't obvious, but I've tracked down the 1998 version of the regs that includes an explanation. That says to limit the circuits to 5 or 6 and to optimise the routing of loops to avoid concentrations of pipes, particularly in hallways, but to insulate them if necessary. Which I would take to mean to avoid condensation on parts of the floor that would, if pipes are too bunched up and not insulated, be a few °C cooler than the general floor temperature. UFCH with cooling is pretty common France - apparently 1/3 of all new houses have it - and it has a long history, so their current regs (last updated in 2023) ought to be a good guide; I can spot a few things that have changed since 1998.
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We haven't seen what happens when he hits the flush button yet.
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Heh, I probably should have clarified and started my own thread. I was asking because it's my basement and I'm using MF ceiling.
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I've had 3 beers, but ???? I am referring to the underside of the first floor, eg to prevent nuisance noise / sound from the FF affecting the GF. Do we have some crossed wires here?
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@jfb, This is amongst the laziest installs I have ever seen. Near zero GAF. The open connector off the SVP is just comedy meeting shamefulness. Absolutely horrendous. Do you have some pics of the flue in the attic, with clamps / brackets etc? Most of my concern will be seeing sufficient support and self-tappers securing every single flue component to the next. In the room I see 1 such fixing, whereas there should be a minimum of 1 more on the 90 bend heading vertically. The lack of clips overall is poor, but the condensate is just utter wank.... What consumer unit is in the house? If it's anything predating 18th edition then they should have erred on the side of caution and added cross (equipotential) earth bonding to the 5 pipes under the boiler (the 6th is the PRV which is discounted for bonding). Where the gas pipe comes through the masonry wall, is that sleeved? Overall, it's a 3/10.
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No floorboards, my ground floor is a reinforced concrete slab. Fixing it up high still as effective? I suppose it is the same as walls and the drum effect I've read about.
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That's what drives the flow temperature, if you have lower room temps you can operate at a lower flow temp without issue. Not sure I buy that with a well thought out floor design. We are at 300mm and cannot see any variations in floor temp, but pipes are 100mm down, nearer 120mm if you include the wooden floor. Proper cooling thermostat will have this. We have humidity control in one of our sensors. That's a strange one - any obvious reason for this rule?
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What wall type should I use?
BotusBuild replied to BotusBuild's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Hi Susie (and David). It will mainly be used for stacking cars if I get to spend the VAT reclaim on what I want 😀 but it occasionally could be used for "servicing" and I thought a roll about stool in combination would be the way forward. Also, I'm looking at "sinking" the slab foundation to get 4- 500mm more headroom. Together I think these two approaches will work, but if they don't SWMBO has other ideas for the VAT reclaim 😀 -
Screwfix: abysmal customer service
Super_Paulie replied to Crofter's topic in Kitchen & Household Appliances
I took a chipper back twice and they replaced it each time. I was 100% forcing crap through it that I shouldn't have been and each time they said yeah fine, no worries. Also my titan grinder died after a year of abuse and they replaced it on the spot with a brand new one. -
Minstral 3.5 !!! could be scout and patch constructor with gpt5.5 just confirming or doing new prompt !!! local llms move so fast !
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It helps massively. Best to get some up under the FF floorboards, and then run all services below, makes a horrible job soooooo much easier / tolerable.
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Screwfix: abysmal customer service
Crofter replied to Crofter's topic in Kitchen & Household Appliances
Yeah maybe I should have done that. It'll almost certainly just go to landfill anyway 🤷 I seem to have managed to persuade the bot to escalate my complaint to a human. I'll see what happens.
