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Have you considered insulated metal panels? They acheive a decent span, though the detail around the gable doors might be complicated

Good ideas there. They look like they have a very good team for development. I just wonder how well resourced they are to build it and scale, but looks promising. I really do wish we could change the record though and stop trying to make every new heating solution like a gas boiler and instead try to build a new message around the transition, but I suppose with so many people still harking on about North sea oil & gas, it's an uphill struggle.

It’s more like a thin foil with soft fabric like backing

Might be of interest for people looking to replace a gas combi-boiler with no room for a DHW cylinder and don't want the disruption of up-sizing radiators. https://nusku.co.uk/news/nusku-set-to-turbocharge-switch-to-heat-pumps. It's an R290 heat pump with a high flow temperature so presumably some loss of coefficient of performance. In a recent LinkedIn post, they say: "Benefits include: ➡️Integrated hot water cylinder saves space and installation time ➡️Fewer connections for better reliability and lower maintenance ➡️High temperature heat pump reduces need for radiator upgrades ➡️Future-ready system with built-in smart controls for easy use and optimisation ➡️Engineered for minimal noise and disruption to the home Prototypes are being trialled in homes across Bristol, with wider trials to follow ahead of launch next year"

You didnt mention pumping it out? Yes, slow it down, but you cant stop it.

Was it foil with a spongy backing, used to insulate sometimes?

🤦‍♂️🤔🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

My house is absolutely airtight, when it comes to an internal quick recovery I'll be honest at this point it's basically impossible. If it's such an inevitable loss, why does flood guidance say fill all holes and install flood doors? Feels sensible to me to attempt to considerably slow the influx of water and then pump it out the subfloor as part of the protection?

If the underfloor area is dirt, you are literally wasting your time. In the event of a flood, the water will simply rise through the soil. Bit like one of my neighbours who had a 500 year old cottage with stone flag floor. When the floods came, the water just came up through the floor. Fortunately, she was smart and well used to it, so furniture on blocks, wait for the water to leave, light two open fires in fireplaces to dry out. All original lime plastered and rendered walls, so dryed out easily. Id definitely be doing similar to what i described. And removing the rockwool. Unless the flood is 30mins max, stop trying to stop it coming in. You will lose, the water will win.

Is there a void that an animal might have crawled into and died? I know there shouldn't be with airtightness regs but the last time I had a smell that I couldn't find the source for it turned out to be a dead neighbour 😌

Thanks for the feedback. I'm not even convinced right now that flooded rockwool will dry out, I have no weep vents on my property. Only subfloor anti flooding air bricks. My entire issue is complicated by the fact that numerous decisions have been taken which shouldn't have been. Half the house is sat on ground level ring beam, it has two different foundation types. Movement joints between the two, so many things which make it difficult for flooding resiliency Such as I already have cavity wall insulation, which is Rockwool below DPC which should have never have been the case. My underfloor under my ground beam is dirt and not concrete And a variety of other issues. BUT if I can slow the entry of water long enough to protect the inside of the property then thats a big win and just peace of mind. If a bit of cavity wall insulation has to be removed then that's fine. I was going to remove it earlier but decided if I get flooded again then it can a problem then. The main priority here is all about slowing the water ingress significantly enough. But in respect of this I don't want to be causing issues in a none flood event doing things like messing with my DPC.

They sent two sets in case we have trouble with any other seat. Fitted in seconds, great service.

It doesn’t smell like drains. I checked they all seem fine

I think @Spinny and @ProDave have got this. Dry trap / stuck dirgo / open end on pipe. Check anything connected to drains (dishwasher, boiler condense, shower, bath, washing machine, MVHR etc.).

Another vote for possibly drains. Were they properly pressure tested during build?

Easy fil will be fine Ajay.

Thanks for the reply. Thoughts on the other points? What should I use to close the chase? Is it appropriate to use EasiFill 60, or would that impair the structural strength of the wall? Would it have a higher risk of causing cracks, etc.? As for the cable… okay - it’s a Samsung “Near-Invisible” One Connect Cable, which is officially *not* “in-wall” rated, so… yeah. But leaving that aside, I’d like to know more about the other aspects of doing a wall chase, and advice would be appreciated.

Should always chase horizontally or vertically between wall plates/entry/exit points - you will find the electrical safe zones defined on line. That way there is half a chance others won't drill into the cable. Even if it is safe, not actually power, as just a signal cable, nobody wants a severed aerial cable etc. How come you are not just going straight up the wall from subfloor ? What cable is it - Coax, HDMI, Network ?

This seems to me the sort of system plumbers should be using

DIY - nope too busy playing wack-a-mole with various other things. I do just have a plumber currently, maybe ok tbh, but a little frustrated with flow from a different tap he has plumbed in. It is a general problem with trades and differences of objectives between the trade and the customer. Many trades want to be in and out job done - pay me mucho money instantly etc. Most customers have no idea what the plumber is doing. Plumbing should last up to 50 years - that's a lot of people cursing a limited flow rate because a plumber couldn't be bothered to bend pipe etc. One came for a look, as soon as I said a few things about MLCP and connectors and flow rates I had measured, he said, you sound technical, I'll decide whether I want to quote, never seen again. Clearly that type like ignorant customers that never ask a question. Good people want to do a proper job, welcome questions, take some trouble - measure the system performance - leave things right - call customers up to come and fix anything temporary they do etc.

Wrote reply in notes on phone. Copy pasted. No idea why size is all over the place and cat see how to edit size

Home office and hobby room with all year round use. I’m aware it would have a deep profile. In terms of overall aesthetic, The walls are being insulated & clad from outside to protect and preserve the building. These interlocking cabins can be problematic with rain and this one’s certainly suffered. The building already needs a new roof with metal being my first choice. Even without insulation I’d be fixing the roof battens regardless. If I can resolve the fixing method it’s easier insulating continuously over the top than internally though I haven’t completely ruled it out. Inside there are effectively three rooms but only one is fully enclosed. Basically it’s open plan but with Partial internal walls to support the purlins. Insulating inside would be very bitty rather than continuous. Ventilation would possibly need to be mechanical and I’d need to cladd internally to cover it all.

Home office and hobby room with all year round use. I’m aware it would have a deep profile. In terms of overall aesthetic, The walls are being insulated & clad from outside to protect and preserve the building. These interlocking cabins can be problematic with rain and this one’s certainly suffered. The building already needs a new roof with metal being my first choice. Even without insulation I’d be fixing the roof battens regardless. If I can resolve the fixing method it’s easier insulating continuously over the top than internally though I haven’t completely ruled it out. Inside there are effectively three rooms but only one is fully enclosed. Basically it’s open plan but with Partial internal walls to support the purlins. Insulating inside would be very bitty rather than continuous. Ventilation would possibly need to be mechanical and I’d need to cladd internally to cover it all.

Could it be the drains ? Maybe lift the drain covers and check everything is free flowing. Have all the waste traps in the house got water in them ?

If you are struggling for a plumber locally, maybe it's time to ask here for recommendations for good plumbers who are willing to travel (if you are willing to pay). Get someone good in who can resolve everything in one go. Will likely cost a lot more than you are paying for crap plumbers but if you can avoid the callbacks/issues then still probably a win. Alternatively, DIY?