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Just download ChatGPT and take all the effort out of it.

Just had our 27kWh Sigenergy batteries (LiFePO4) moved from the house to an outbuilding. The main reason for doing that was due to the plant room getting very hot but, whilst I am prepared to believe these batteries are very safe, the thought of losing our new timber-framed house to a battery fire was, er... troubling. If it goes up now I would lose my workshop but I reckon the fire brigade ought to have a good chance of stopping it spreading to the house 🤞 (The plant room is now running 7°C cooler on average btw.)

Quite. Our Q350 is using 21W - half a kWh per day - so next to nowt.

Same, what they going to do if you forget the digger isn’t a zero tail swing jobbie and you accidentally take out a wall, then because safety reasons the whole structure had better come down.

After just using a tape measure it does makes sense for smaller numbers but anything over 1m you measure the easiest way to read the numbers.

We just leave the MVHR to do its thing, windows open or closed. it only changing the air in a room every 3 hours. Not worth getting hung up on it. It's ventilation at the end of the day, not cooling.

All the rads are ok except the bathroom that is sweating a little, I guess we could just turn that one off?

LED lighting creating crisis for human mitochondria: Researchers.. https://www.newsnationnow.com/health/led-lighting-human-mitochondria-research/amp/ So presumably warm white is better for you than cold whilte.

I would tweek it down 0.5 degs at a time, leave for a while and check for condensation. You should be comfortable taking it down a couple of degrees. The lower running temp to will promote more heat uptake and a higher demand, so less cycling. It's a balancing act, so some trial error I am afraid.

WE are running our flow at 16 (checking dew point to avoid condensation) and have some cooling. We have mounted 8 PC fans under one rad as a proof of concept and it helps creating a small local cool zone, they are silent but we could actually do with considerably more airflow, may try a higher voltage power supply. Currently they are fixed using mini magnets but not that secure so may try mounting them using plastic trim strips. Heat pump is drawing about 1/3 minimum input on an hourly basis and cycling frequently showing we are basically failing to extract nearly as much heat via the rads as the unit is capable of even at minimum modulation. Inside air temp is 26C compared to 35C outside but no idea what it would be without the cooling.

You see, to me that is a right handed tape measure, you hold it in your left so you can read the numbers the right way up and use a pencil (or whatever) to mark off your length with your RIGHT hand Worth thinking about 😉

That’s not the healthiest option unless windows are opened?

I would have gone for asking forgiveness vs permission, if DIY’ing.

Unless you are dozing it, use the term dismantle and it may help.

Interesting email today, reference GivEnergy batteries only, if you're a member of Axle you get GivEnergy premium service included. You can invite GivEnergy users still, but no introduction bonus is payable any more - other makes of battery you still get the introduction bonus.

Our plot insurance does not cover demolition. I have now heard that it is often an add on or an extra and not typically included as standard. As we have had our plot for almost a year now we will be looking to change the insurance to make sure we're covered, so hoping to see how anyone else had negotiated it.

Very similar to what we have. Raft foundation with wet UFH on GF and we have a low profile UFH on the FF above posi joists as well. Glue down LVT everywhere - herringbone downstairs, planks upstairs. Includes the kitchen and utility areas. Tiles in the bathrooms only (on top of wet UFH). No carpets anywhere in the house - including the staircase. A lot of back and forth with the builder, aided by ChatGPT!

As above. As soon as outdoor temp exceeds desired indoor temp we shut all doors/windows and turn the MVHR down to its minimum setting. When the outdoor temp drops below indoor temp of an evening, we open all doors/windows and turn the MVHR up to max. Currently 33.7 degrees outside and 22.5 degrees inside. No active cooling but we do have external blinds which are game changers I reckon.

Hi, I’m led to believe that a vertical DPC would normally be used between a cavity wall and the original building’s wall. I think the damp is leaching from the stone wall with lime mortar into the block wall. Ther’s not a lot of definitive information readily available. Thanks, Robert

Does that not just hurt the ordinary person though. Look what happened when a relatively few people withdrew savings from Northern Rock. And when Shell were boycotted in German because of misinformation. Not sure if I should mention Jaffa Oranges in the 1970s. Better to tax the bollocks off them, oh hang on.

I - now - avoid Stanley as a brand because of its close association with America : the brand originated there (although manufacturing is now worldwide). If I can, I avoid anything American.

I have a thick concrete raft foundation with wet UFH. I am choosing stick-down LVT for mine, atop 3mm smoothing compound. This is my preference of thermal performance, comfort, cost and aesthetics. Plank design everywhere (with borders and thresholds; living room and corridor in running plank; bedrooms in herring bone) except for marble tile design in bathrooms with grout lines (LVT). All to be laid professionally after painting the ceilings but before everything else (including skirtings and decorating). Ai was very helpful for me in thinking through all the design details.

Affixed my ceiling boards to resilient bar across the joists obviating the need for lots of noggins with added acoustic performance as a bonus (bungalow). Resilient bar is cheap. @Nickfromwales provided the suggestion.

Definitely right handed but now banned due to Max being offended and ridiculed by his work mates.

I sorted it myself. Sorted the rat too. 💀 Easy fix