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Just an update on the RAS-B2 TRV bodies I used the Danfoss installer app to get the base line settings but over the first week I tweaked them from the suggested to get the rooms to where I want then to be. Vertical rads need more flow than suggested (no convector fins I think is the main reason). I've not had to adjust them since and room temps are rock solid and the DT on the rads are all between 5 and 7 deg. Pump output is also rock solid at 0.6 m3/hr Absolute game changer I reckon - the Wiser EB4 bodies were good and I've been happy with then for a few years but the adjustment range was too coarse from 1-3 (I ended up using a setting along side a tweak on the lockshield to get the flow rate right and this caused a little system noise and I really dislike system noise - it's me I know but I want a quiet heating system) Next thing on the list is the HW side and options are 1. Replace the tank with another vented tank but with a 2m2 coil 2. Keep the current tank but use a PHEX and reconfigure the pipework to suit that 3. Replace the tank with ASHP compatible tank 3m2 coil (and stay vented) 4. Replace the tank with direct tank but use PHEX and reconfigure pipework to suit (Vented) 5. Replace the tank with ASHP compatible tank (3m2 coil) and convert to unvented (upside is I get to ditch 2 shower pumps - downside is risk of leaks in old circuit)

I wasn't aware of any problems.

Did the installers purge all the UFH loops, or did they do the usual ‘lazy bollocks’ method of telling you to run it and the system will (eventually) “purge itself”?

Because of the word ‘commercial’. You are a domestic client, so are wires apart here afaic. Keep them on a tight leash is my 2 cents. 😌😉

Fwiw, and FYI I have zero knowledge of any of the above, it’s a melting pot. Some are good at A,B,C…..others H,I,J…..and then there’s X,Y,Z. Very few seem to have a complete, overarching knowledge / skill set, and still way too many putting their own personal preference ahead of their clients. Look at their portfolios and decide for yourself if you think you’ll have some synergy, as there’s the pot of gold imho.

Here's a much better plan, sell it to me 😁

Apologies yet again. I won’t be able to join you. Paid work getting in the way but unfortunately necessary to keep the project on track. On a positive note, plastering underway and kitchen onsite

This is indeed a valid point. I generally avoid doing things twice, but maybe i need to on this occassion................................

22 panels 2 invertors, isolaters etc. Bought would be stretch. Obtained for free courtesy of my former business landlord who was putting them in a skip. Never even been commisioned. I guess the fact they were free takes the pressure to do anything away. When theres a 100 other more pressing jobs to do.

Expansion vessel having no pre-charge is the usual suspect here. It seems the heating of the cylinder is creating expansion, and there’s nowhere for it to be absorbed. Time to isolate the expansion vessel and check the charge pressure so we can help you through the process of elimination. Regarding the ‘bomb’ issue, relax. There’s been a failure of some sort, and the safety features have done their job; the red T&PRV had opened to relieve the buildup of pressure in the cylinder, functioning entirely as intended to keep you safe

I am getting occasional water discharge through the tundish on my mains pressure unvented cylinder with gas boiler. (Not 100 percent certain, but this appears to occur when the hot water is on and has been on for a while.) The mains pressure is about 3.5bar. There is a Caleffi combination Pressure Reducing Valve fitted and it reduces the pressure to slightly below mains. There is also a temperature/pressure relief valve on the Gledhill cylinder. (See photos). +Both are connected to the same discharge pipe and single shared tundish. - the water discharge is not hot - I have stuck my finger in it. - I have temporary outside style hot and cold taps piped from the system just 2-3m away from the system. When the tundish runs, the water pressure at the cold tap is about 3.5bar/50PSI. The water pressure at the hot tap is very high at about 6.2bar/90PSI. - When I open the hot tap the hot water blasts out and I leave it to run for a few minutes to release this pressure. Reconnecting the pressure guage after doing this shows the pressure at the hot tap has then fallen to about 3.5bar/50PSI and the tundish stops running. - If I open the cold tap it momentarily blasts out - just for a second or so - then runs normally. In the 2nd Photo the pipe connections are: - 22mm pipe into the top is the mains water supply - 22mm pipe out on the right with right angle bend upwards is I believe the balanced cold water supply - 22mm pipe out on the right below the balanced cold runs to an expansion tank mounted on the wall (Note green stain on this pipe - joint weep ?) - 22mm pipe out at the bottom provides the cold water feed to the base of the unvented cylinder The grey plastic is the mains feed pressure reducing valve. The red plastic is a 6 bar pressure relief valve outputting to the tundish (So I presume this is what is opening under excess pressure conditions) Presumably the red valve is opening as a result of back pressure from the cylinder ?? So what is causing this ? Why is the cylinder pressure rising so high, and does this indicate some problem with the expansion vessel, which is presumably there to provide hot water expansion capacity and avoid over pressure ? PS Having a 6 bar and 60deg C 250L hot water bomb in the house would seem like cause for concern ? Help, explanation, answers, how to get it fixed etc greatly appreciated... (PPS Currently have the Hot Water timer on for 2 hrs in the morning and 2 hrs in the evening - temperature of the hot water from hot tap appears to be 60C as expected. But the over pressure seems like it may perhaps be linked to having the hot water timer on. - though it doesn't occur every time - have only noticed the tundish running maybe once every few weeks.)

The only concern with FMB would be if they were claiming to be members but were not. You have done decent research. Did you get 3 quotes? If not, make some calls. It is going to cost you a lot of money, so make sure you choose someone who is good and you get along with. You don't need to be mates, but there may be potential differences that will need resolving.

@lookseehear hi, thanks for the detail. I don't think it works because the idea of the tilt fillet is to keep the slates right at the eaves to prevent them dropping, and to aldo mean the weight of the eaves course is on the timber fillet and not on the upvc facia. Adding the over fascia vent then puts the weight back onto the fascia rendering the tilt fillet useless unless I'm missing something obvious.

For anyone still keeping tabs on this thread (and i wouldn't blame anyone for not doing so! 😆) Has anyone had experience of using some of these big name architect companies, like: Arkiplan Homz Planning by design They seem to be more of an online service, but appear to have a wealth of services to offer & can provide a comprehensive 'all in 1' package for several £k cheaper than others we've had quotes from. We definitely won't skimp unnecessarily at this step of the process, but likewise would be happy to try these companies if folks have had positive experiences with them For the record: we are still hoping to use a local architect if possible, but been let down recently & so exploring all options to try and push ahead Cheers, all Shadow

I've read elsewhere that adjustable bends "always leak". Is there any truth to that?

I (erm, we..😳) fitted ours so long ago I have forgotten how we did it. But I do remember fitting some of it in a thunderstorm. How tired of living were we ! In answer to your point @Oz07, you can rest a ladder on it, it sounds nice in the rain and you can't hear it expand and contract in the sun as happens on our cottage. Thanks everyone. Tomorrow's job. 😑

Make sure they have current insurance. Also make sure you have insurance. also check out where they live, type of house and vechiles they drive. If they and all their family drive likes of defenders they are taking to much money out of the business and you could be in trouble half way through your projects. speak to their sub contractors to make sure they are getting paid by the main contractors.

I fitted over 90 metres of Lindab Majestic gutters and assorted outlets, brackets, joints etc and thought the quality was very good though a bit surprised the leaf trap was plastic. Obviously looks great but the cost!

5ft long screw piles will not be long enough to make up your 1m. You'd need 9ft long piles to get stability IMHO (not a structural engineer). I'd be putting in some concrete piles (as per above) and building up from those. A builder friend of mine is sold on these screw piles, but did say they have their place for small extensions, garden rooms etc.

The massive crack circled in yellow would have me concerned: Even with a drip edge along the underside of the coping stones, there's a discontinuity at each join that could let water track away from the edge. The one at the yellow arrow seems particularly bad. Could you temporarily cover the render on your neighbour's side with some plastic sheet that goes right up under the coping stone overhang, ideally with a continuous bead of silicone to make sure water can't track through? That might let you at least rule out the neighbour's render.

Thanks for the feedback. I have since advised the architect (I won’t use the acronym above just in case he or she browses this site!) that we should crack ok in a sympathetic manner with the rest of the application. We are submitting additional proposals for a side single storey extension and a new porch etc but none of it should in anyway prompt a bat survey. The most disappointing aspect is that this architect (owner of an architectural company) is experienced and has completed major commercial projects. I’m still not sure why when permitted development has been approved he deemed it necessary to look into proactively getting bat surveys done.

I have used a chop saw. One of the Evolution multi material ones. Goggles are a must.

Thanks Jack! There are actually a drip groove (small carved-out channel) underneath the coping stones to direct water away from the parapet wall. I think the DPC is just under each coping stones (not visible though, so I cannot confirm). The render of the parapet wall is new (on our side) so there is no crack where water could get in. However, yes I agree that the brickwork looks very "gappy" and any water getting in could use a number of pathways to get out... Maybe we should look at our neighbours cracked render despite the fact that our roofer said that it is highly unlikely to cause an issue to our property unless they have the same issue in the same place... Hmmm, I don't know, I am very confused...

There was some lindlab on a house I looked at the other week and I was distinctly unimpressed. Is this stuff expensive? It didn't look bad but it didn't strike me as looking any better than pvc. Perhaps the guy used a rubbish range

Sorry, I meant 'water starts'. 🫠 I see the little hole (photo attached). Will try and find time to test later, if not tomorrow. Still in nursing mode. Thanks again for the help.