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As requested. Here are some pictures. I’m seriously gutted at how it’s cracked. But it is one of those things and although I’ve done a garage slab before when it was 10C using traditional concrete and a poker and that had no shrinkage cracks. the SCC was £178/m3

Probably just noise then. If the charger still works and there's no smell of electronics in the garage then don't worry about it.

Just arrived home. Zappi appears fine (can't plug in at present as caravan in the way). Nothing has tripped on the the consumer panel. All seems fine 🤔

This is the span, the width of this phase is 13m, the total width will be 24m. There are 2 spans as the middle wall will be the end of one bit of roof joist and the start of the other one, but the roofing sheets will be continuous, if we have enough long ones left from the barn, if not then overlapped. Low and wide.

A stuck fridge or freezer compre4ssor might use that much, but should trip out. My energy monitor had the battery fail, just before it did that, it was showing 1000 times the usage

Wasn't sure over what time period that was. If it's just for the period shown on screen then does seem high. A component short-circuiting will draw a very high current for a very short period of time (equally true for a noise spike). Maybe the sample rate of the monitor is only a handful of readings per second. In which case a huge but very short spike might appear to use more energy than it did. Edit: quick maths: To produce a reading of 2.8kWh for a recorded spike of 1 second you'd need to measure a draw of ~10kW or about 42A. A brief short circuit could be much more than that.

Thanks @saveasteading having looked again, put some string lines from bottom to top we can get 5 degrees maybe even 6 with some consideration on wall plate thickness. So, pretty flat, we look over fields and are pretty rural and the neighbours are only interested in how we are progressing, I suspect that we could put tilted solar and no one would comment. They know our planning includes the 'new stuff' as they call it. But, our planning also stipulates a metal roof so I need to understand the weight of solar on this as it's a large span. I've not yet even got a definitive answer as to how many panels I need. I've spoken to a couple of local supplies and they are not interested, I suspect too complicated for them and they all deal with retrofit and not new builds. Thanks for everyones assistance in this.

I think there might be 2 kinds of spray or that could just be bull. I've had it before when someone has said ive put the good spray on for you in case tiling the floor or something. Maybe acrylic vs non acrylic?

Not home at the moment, but will check when I get back. Have refreshed the data but it still shows, and would it use 2.8kWh if something went pop?

Got lakes to freeze now. Doing this brought up a few long term bugs so was a bit more work than I thought. Avalon 1 did have a basic procedural flora generator. This has since been improved in Avalon 2. Texture wise took basically every free terrain/plant texture from polyhaven!. Alien plants will of course be procedural. Masses of optimisations again. Spent an entire day trying to do bubbling mud for volcanic worlds - still not right. Claude likes to overcomplicate on an epic scale; our "camera" had 127 parameters! - now just 8. Tree lab still has around 80 variables to "grow" the plant (inspired by what Unreal Engine does). Now just main ones on first screen. As for bubbling mud it somehow did an entire advanced physics simulation causing some chronic frame rate issues as you can imagine. It goes off on it's own little adventures I'm sure!

Does the Zappi still work? Either something went pop inside it or it's just mometary glitch in the data (maybe noise pickup)?

Just noticed this today. Car not even plugged in to Zappi. Any ideas?

You need to make sure you stay inside the max voltage and amp limits of the inverter. We have a 3.6kW inverter with 6.5kW of panels. But these are also vertical and we are NE Scotland, so output is capped somewhat anyway. The science of PV is peak power is only momentary or short lived, nearly all the time the panels run in a derated state, sun angle, sun heat, cloud etc all affect the panel performance.

Get the manual downloaded, many have adjustable temps for cooling and heating. Don't ask read the installer manual. We have a Myson iVector MkII, it allows for adjustment of the flow temp to start stop the fan. You can manually put fan on a fixed speed but then you don't get a modulating output.

I'm looking at replacing a couple of rads with fan coils for when we get a heat pump installed in November. Our plan is fully open loop system with UFH downstairs and rads / fan coils upstairs. Heat loss suggests the highest flow temp I will need is ~35 degrees c and plan to modulate flow based weather comp. However, it seems like fan coils (Panasonic and Cool Energy Reverso) have a min flow temp of 35 degrees to turn on. Can't get a straight answer from manufacturers if that's when using the fan coil thermostat, or if it can be manually overridden to just run the fans on low no matter the incoming water flow temp. Anyone got any experience or advice?

Whatever export limit the DNO sets you can always have a much bigger inverter and array and just export limit via G99+G100.

There are circumstances where tapered thread fittings are not appropriate. Clearly this is one of them so follow the manufacturers instructions. I generally find Loctite 55 to be 100% reliable although surprisingly I've just done an installation where 2 of my radiator tails are seeping on pressure testing, but that's more down to unbranded rad tails with built in drain off that I needed in a hurry so took what was available off the shelf and manufacturing tolerances aren't great!

Yes it does. Here's a couple of pics from an installation I'm finishing off at the mo.

Is there ever a problem where you would like to have more panels but your DNO-agreed inverter size and the max oversize of panel capacity for your mppts limits your shoulder seasons generation?

Well the SCC looks like it saved a lot of work. Was it expensive? Is the next pour to a different level?

So I did apply it correctly. Maybe not enough or should have used a Wax or Resin based agent.

Glad you ignored any naysayers. Its lovely stuff.

But would say big grant, but you pay big admin fees to get grant and installer adds a premium - or it's a rip-off You pay 2x standing charge, been there son went direct heat pump. Solar is great in summer a d rubbish in winter 0 That's why you do full heat loss calculations, so you know they can. I just heat our DHW via immersion, that leaves the heat pump to do what it wants to keep house warm. Current only pay 10p per kWh off peak, by the time you factor in all the inefficiency of gas it not far off the same price in real terms, maybe cheaper if you factored in standing charge in the summer months.

Well done. If it is hard and flat you will be OK. Thousands of tiny cracks will be better than a few big ones. Even with fibre you would have cracks. Photo of the surface please?

Can you post a pic of the ends of the hot and cold union please. For the shower outlet this is simple. This goes into the top. Then this goes into that. Likely 2 of these for hot & cold. The bush simply gets 21 turns of PTFE tape, same with the 1/2” male thread, or buy liquid PTFE like pipe superglue if you’re not confident. Those 3/4” fittings should be just a bit over hand tight and a little pinch with a spanner and all good. Make off stubs of 15mm into them before mounting them onto the shower, so you’re not swinging off them and putting the rubber seals under undue stress / movement etc