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Use a strong magnet (search Amazon) it will find all the screws attaching the plasterboard to the studwork and, if strong enough, the metal stud work itself.

If they contract, it's their responsibility for compliance, not the clients.

Stop it! 🤦‍♂️

make sure they understand the local Highways Dept requirements for licenses and specification.

Simply by immediate appearance the top one looks preferable. I think as long as it is all roddable it is acceptable, but wold have to read the reg's with that in mind. We are installing ours within the slab insulation, for pracitcal reasons, but with the added benefit of retaining height. that can create 'cover' challenges outside, but overcome-able. Apart from keeping trenches shallower as a benefit please consider where the digester will empty to.

Now that the HEX is sorted and its dispaying the temperatures correct. I want the system to heat up alot faster. The LLH was an option I was considering but doesnt have to be that solution. I have a CDI upstairs, conventional, it does the radiators in this property for the top 2 floors. 22KW rads total @t50 or so. The rads on that system are hot within 10 mins. Which is what I want my downstairs boiler to be like, the downstairs boiler is the greenstar 8000 that we're discussing here. That one takes 30mins for the flow to reach 60 target. The upstairs one takes 10-12mins to get to 60 target. I mean, there isn't a huge amount of difference in the power of these 2 boilers. So im trying to do what I can to get it so the downstairs boiler can heat up faster. Hence second pump, hence LLH. Do you have any other suggestions I can look at? besides swapping the boiler out entirely.

In a normal house maybe. But not so sure in this particular one, especially during the warm up phase. The 2ft thick walls downstairs will still be emitting coolth, long after the modern upstairs bedroom has warmed up.

Can I just clean out and fill these mortar gaps?

please advise best method for indentifying metal wall studs in new build flat where the plasterboard has metal backing? Many thanks

Me also, zero issues, a good price at the time.

Remember reading something a while ago, lots of rules and limited components approved. £18 sounds like a non approved thing Just found the thing I read https://www.ofcom.org.uk/phones-and-broadband/coverage-and-speeds/using-a-repeater-to-improve-indoor-mobile-phone-signal

Noted, I’ll redraw. The site is sloping, but not that much and the fall slipped the ‘design’ Treatment plant will be to the north/top of these drawings. Thank you

Top image will not work as you need an inspection chamber at each junction. 2nd image you are going to be metres below surface by the time everything meets up with the fall requirements. Don't like the angles, would aim for 90 degs Where is the treatment plant going? Start from there first. Longs runs equal very deep.

that's just an external antenna. You'll need the booster and it's internal antenna too?

Thanks for that. Just thought I could use a flat carbide grit hacksaw blade - cut a slit in celing so I can saw through the last bit of the tile. I'm expecting door frame is fixed to vertical stud wall framing and so will cut through tile and then multitool wood blade to cut through plasterboard to wall framing. I might need to try and cut tile adhesive off back of tile with multitool too and break tile off in bits carefully...will see. Normally I just replace all plasterboard as tiles I remove typically damage plasterboard, so I plan to replace.....maybe with tile backerboard as most tiles I see these days are porcelain though I will look for ceramic as I think easier to work with .....I do have a flatbed water table diamond tile cutter as I've done a few bathrooms and kitchens walls/floors for myself and family.....serious DIYer but no expert tiler so always happy to learn. Current tiles are ceramic on plasterboard. Yes plan to do a test cut & use flat trim. Good tip - do not buy tiles until ready to tile. Thanks again.

one could always try not even moving the thermostat but just turning it up a few degrees. Wherever the tank is will still track the rest of the house, even if it's a wee bit higher...

Hi all, In the wait for planning and before wanting to commit to professional input for building regs drawings, I’m just starting to plan services etc around the house. The current thing I’m trying to work out is the runs for the soil pipes. These will eventually head out to a treatment plant (to be specced). Out of the two designs below, which would be preferable? One option minimises runs under the (insulated raft) slab and has multiple inspection chambers to pick everything up, the second utilises 45 deg branches. One option allows rodding access from both ends; the branch option only allows rodding from one end. This will need toilet, etc., removing to access? Any thoughts on which is best? I can’t seem to find any guidance about minimising runs under the slab but common sense says less is more. Let me know if there are any suggestions, and I'll resketch! Thank you all Thank you all

They seem to vary widely. https://materialsmarket.com/building-materials/bricks-blocks/engineering-bricks

Just if they're on show I think. How much is a class b red engineering brick nowadays? Used to be about 20 pence.

There is a 5G mast 200 metres from my house. I must go down to Goonhilly and Poldhu, the spiritual home of radio, and see if there is still no signal.

5G vs 4G. As your know @SteamyTea, in Kernow 5G is a rare beast, often only to be found wondering around Truro and maybe some other larger towns in the county. Likelihood of us getting 5G where we are I suspect is very low. So, paying for something we're unlikely to get is pointless IMHO. @ProDave, Yes, we do wifi calling in the house. I am planning for that next broadband and/or power outage that leaves us dependent on a mobile signal. This is the link to that above picture - https://ebay.us/m/TKwM6Y

So I'm going to purchase some engineering bricks for below ground and for a couple of courses that will be behind the wood cladding. What I'm struggling to understand is why you'd pay £1.50 for some class A glazed, when a 22N concrete brick is £0.50?

I am going to phone several companies to discuss options of open cut and trenchless options, whatever I go for I feel like it is going to be expensive…🥲

Not enough information. Need a link, not a picture. But probably useless at that price. Do you have decent broadband? If so you only need a phone and service provider that supports wifi calling when at home. If looking for 4G or 5G broadband, you need a router that has an external aerial that plugs into the router. THAT is not that aerial.

Never tried one, but two things. Are the legal, seem to remember than some are not. Do they do a 5G version, 4G is to 2010s.