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You mention "they" a lot. It sounds as if the community needs "you" and others with practical ideas to get things changed.

Volume? Of course it depends on the garden needs, but it's a decent amount of water. But it would be quite low in the ground and might need pumping. Health and safety wise? Everyone will say no, and probably rightly so. But what comes out generally looks clear and I know it hasn't killed trees I've had drains near to. My hunch is probably no harm with decorative plants or trees but should not be used for vegetables.

probably same reason as the solway firth and morecambe bay --national fuel security is beelebub so naive to think that his data is accurate and that the government can,t put a twist on it at least give them credit for being devious if it suits the national interest

Irrigation requires a LOT of volume of water, nowhere near enough would come from this type of plant. The person advising you is kosher, it's a "no". . Irrigation from dedicated RWH systems for these types of current circumstances would, for context, need to be 15,000-20,000L capacity to be anywhere close to being considered 'effective', as the amount of stored water needed to get from 'drought to drought' is huge.

Yes I have drawn it all up and I can avoid the single socket issue OK I think. Both are focused on Bedside sockets which need to match the bed width - chose king size but spaced so a super king will just fit between the sockets - just! Getting it right is a further pain on one of the walls as it has two doors in it which the other half of the partnership wants to be secret and open on the 'V' grooves - hence the bespoke panelling!

Ask yourself why and when you'd ACTUALLY want to change these temps I doubt there's much practical / real world need to follow this route tbh.

"Loads" is doing a lot of work there.... The largest onshore oil has 480 million barrels of oil..... sounds alot until you realise the UK consumes about 1.4 million barrels a day. So all that oil wouldn't last us until this time next year. And 1,420 million cubic meters of gas sounds alot until you factor the UK uses around 142 million cubic meters *a day* in the summer So all that gas wouldn't even last us to the end of this month. Again we are simply discussing the difference between a two declines, one slightly shallower that the other.

Loads in Dorset. Wytch Farm is the largest onshore oil field in Europe. 110,000 barrels a day in 1997, 50,000 B/D in 2002. It is estimated that there is 479.6 million barrels left. There is also 4.73 million tonnes of natural gas liquids and 1.42 billion cubic metres (50×109 cu ft) of natural gas. So why is this not being exploited then? it is already a production site with the infrastructure there, locals are used to it.

Lots of "my ex next door neighbour's sister once dated an oil rig worker in the 90's and she said there was loads of oil under Glastonbury tor" I'm going to use the projection done by the oil industry on the basis that A) they know more about the potential for pip and gas extraction around the UK than anyone on this forum B) they have no vested interest in minimising potential - which is a common retort to using the NSTA figures "ah but Ed Milliband told them to lie, there is actually loads of oil left". these is the oil and gas industry low and high projections The low one is approximately (but not exactly) the NSTA "current course". So by 2035 we will produce at best, half the oil and gas we do now (ie 25% of current consumption). On current trends maybe 13% of current demand. So all the arguing is arguing over the rate of decline - steep or steeper. There is no "up" scenario. There is no going back to the late 90's when we had a surplus and became a (small) exporter The only way the UK can become less dependent on imported oil and gas is for the UK to become less dependent on oil and gas

having tried to gat a simple thing like the requirement to book a spot at the recycling center done away with -- you cannot just turn up better than that you cannot even take half used tins of paint yet you can take car batteries -- cos they will get paid for them and they wonder fly tipping is a problem and being told by more than one D&G counciller that they tried and were blocked by the council on the grounds that it helps things run better and would not discuss it any further - -i do not see anything that my local town council could do on any subject -so on point in joining it is so simple -- you turn up dump your stuff and leave -- if you pick wrong time you might have to queue-- how is making everyone ring or email D&G council to book a slot going to make things better -- just making another job and more paperwork so you have to plan when you want to go and not just decide to have clear out and go dump it and they are only open certain days and never before 12.00-16.00 this to me shows the nature of the "civil service " very accurately -- making more jobs and making more useless data if the skip is full then they just get it emptied and as they are huge that will never get filled in a day do i believe they will monitor the fill rate of the different skips any better --NO they do not even ask what you are bringing or how much of it just another spread sheet to maybe look at usage and decide if they can shut it I already have a 20 mile journey to there as it is -- and that info they can get by seeing how often they need to empty the skips so do I think being on a local town council will have any impact on the areas D&G council control-- NO

I’ll pass your comments onto the author.

C’mon you must have been drinking de-icer when you thought solar panels would look good on there. 😂😂

Have you heard anything back from them? I'm at 2+ months since submission and haven't even been asked for copies of invoices yet.

Brink Sky units are very good. Here’s one I fitted in a garden annex, which the clients lived in whilst we built the main house on the same site.

If want a short time constant for some reason, you could use Jaga Strada fan radiators, so you can cool also. Cheaper than fan coils, and designed to provide above dew point cooling. Also way smaller than radiators. Seems a strange design choice to do 150mm concrete then another 100mm screed on top.

Only if you think that more rapid heating and cooling is good. In which case why not use radiators?

A further thought on this. We often see comments (I am not referring to BH) that 'they are all the same' or 'all on the brown envelopes'. I suspect that people saying that are projecting what they would be doing, onto others. They might usefully attend a council meeting, of which most are public, and see if they fancy giving up several evenings a month to keep the wheels moving. Yes there are people who abuse their position, but most are well intentioned, even if we might not agree with them, and give up a lot of time. There are often vacancies on Parish Councils which gives useful experience before having to stand for election at the next 4 year cycle.

I'd probably fit a horizontal MVHR unit in that space, but block the access from the bedroom, accessing it instead through trap(s) in a new bathroom ceiling. Unless I'd only just renovated the bathroom. dMVHR is certainly worth considering, but there are downsides too: You'd need to do some calculations to check the size - one option here. Good units are fairly quiet if run at less than 2/3 capacity. The list at https://database.passivehouse.com/en/components/list/ventilation_small includes the noise level and shows which are horizontal. These units are independently tested to more accurate standards than normal (a higher efficiency ratio = better economy). Other cheaper options exist.

Nice looking drawing but fascia is spelt thus, and without the 's' it is a mis-spelling , however common. I'm not clear on what is supporting the 'running bearer' . And although it is stated as 100 deep it scales much less. Plus there seem to be a lot of those diagonal supports.... a lot of wood on show. It is strange that such a formal looking drawing, which initially inspires confidence, has these, and maybe more, errors.

Struggling to maintain 60fps and thats without Mike the robot, creatures and other goodies in. Even Fable is kicking back. TAA in was a big gain took some scenes from 200% GPU down to 120% (still over but considerable gain). Of course what's exactly on screen has a massive impact not just trees and imposters (tried those 3 times and gave up, after some thought 4th time worked good enough) but!, as essentially the terrain,sky,shadows,lighting,clouds,water is 1 massive shader (2Mb! as inline for speed) ray marching them from grazing angles can punish fps. I cant lie visuals are AAA - which is staggering. Still not looked at any code but tell it what to look for optimise wise and indeed it does and especially Fable goes off and find extra rabbit holes to explore which is good! A few more things to try though from a very empty bag of tricks. What do we have though? You can see maybe 10,000 trees on screen (yes most are a black pixel!), you can get right into the grass and it moves as you pass and each blade is vertex lit. Looks (expletive deleted)ing better than most of my holiday snaps!. Final push before rapier physics and Mike goes in. Then linking back to whisper and the local LLM - see we got there in the end just via a 3d engine! LOL!

GGU PK10 0070 94x160 cm manually operated white polyurethane VELUX window, with the 62 pane in the bedroom. This has reminded me though, we had one fitted in another room with a 68 pane (significantly cheaper) and this cuts down rain noise pretty well - but not speech noise from outside. As its lighter the hinges work better, my wife struggles to shut the ones in our bedroom.

That's me told - I'll ask for your opinion first next time.

Is there an advantage to putting an intermediate thin-ish insulation layer under UFH screed in a PH-style house? We have 300mm XPS with a 150mm slab on top and we plan to have 100m screed with UFH. But I’m wondering whether, say, a 30mm insulation layer and then 70mm screed would provide a shorter time constant for more rapid heating & cooling. I know some peeps subscribe to always heating to 20/21 degrees and cooling to 25 degrees 24/365 using the slab as a big heat reservoir. But that assumes you never want to change the temperature any, and if ever you do, then it’s going to take days i.e. a v long time-constant.

Use treated timber (Tanalised or equivalent) and C24.... the C16 untreated is generally for lightweight internal work, and the cost difference is small. The element doing most work in your example is the fascia board, as it is supporting multiple rafter and joist ends, and that isn't good. Start with the gallows brackets, then add a timber to the front, bearing on them, then fit the rafters and joists. The fascia is for show and to keep the weather out. This is a very small structure which is supporting your tiles most of the time, but occasionally will have wind uplift. Nobody is going to die if it fails, but it is still best to keep it to the logic above.