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If you study a female - female coupling when mated to the respective pipes, there is literally nothing for "passing material" to hit on it's way past.

Hi, and welcome aboard. Where is home for you then?

Do what I did, make it clear to the planners you want it to stay and in my case they agreed the 'van could remain but not for habitation.

As per title, is there any way I could explain to the company I am buying the door from that I need them to use the proper system to wind/water proof the door installation instead of using pure white sealant? I really do not understand why this is a case still, in this day and age. So how does it work in the UK? Is this known practice? Gladly they knew about Marmox Thermoblocks and we are going to fit them under the frame, but I want to go step forward anyway. Any advice? P.S. Hello everyone, long time reader, finally set myself up with an account

Less plot and professional fees etc...? Any indication of plot costs in your catchment area would be helpful, and how hands-on you plan to be?

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Well 3k per M2 is not a bad figure, so yes. On question 2 I have no idea.

Unless the developer did something stupid, the chances are that if it's been standing for a couple of hundred years, then you'd be unlucky if anything major happened in the next 7. And if it's minor, then it's not going to be quick & easy to get anything fixed under the warranty anyway. In short, it wouldn't worry me - but if you're not familiar with buildings & what to look for, think about getting a Structural Engineer's report.

I was planning on leaving the inside finish as is (would prefer not to reskim etc). Preference would be to insulate in the loft space

I see that the rules say not to ask anything specific here - but let’s just say that my biggest question will be affordability/finance. There’s so many variables and such to discuss - but before I begin to try to find plots or get ahead of myself in any other way, I suppose it’s worth getting some quick preliminary answers to 2 very broad/hypothetical questions: From start-to-finish, can a 2 story, 2 bed, 80m^2 house (including land and every other expense) be built on a budget of £280k in the West Midlands? (Tamworth/Sutton area) and 2; what’s the maximum LTV that someone can realistically get when self-building? I.e. how much cash would I need, at a minimum? I currently live at home with parents rent-free, so there would be no pressure for things to move quickly either. I know questions like these are like asking “how long is a piece of string?” - so I do apologise, but before I spend all the time in the world researching this self-build stuff, I kind of need to know if the idea is a non-starter to begin with!

72.5mm insulated plasterboard chamfered top and bottom and screwed through the existing plasterboard into the rafters. Foam either a good low expansion foam, tape and skim the joints to wall and ceiling. Don't bother taking down the existing plasterboard. No space gain in the room and will create an enormous mess.

How long do you plan on living there @CG100? If >7 years then as @Mr Punter says the warranty will have expired. BUT what if you need to sell it in the next 7 years? You’d have a more limited market.

Not seen that, looks absolutely perfect. Id be struggling to reach down to foam in the gap between plasterboard coming up from the room, sounds as though applying this it would expand and fill it. But in principle this would make sense putting PIR here?

I appreciate that I'm dragging this post back up. But from looking at this and others on the same subject I'm not sure on one aspect of this. I would like to site a ‘static caravan’ likely to be a stick built insulated lodge which meets the terms of being under the caravan act. This will be built to live in during the build as a family of four. Then post build it will be of incidental use ie. An office/store/extra bedroom etc. The one thing I am not sure on however is that the barn conversion that I will be working on will have permitted development rights withdrawn. My understanding that siting a caravan under the caravan act is very separate to permitted development but has anyone else got any thoughts. It will be with the curtilage/ garden. Thanks for your help!

I take a polar opposite view. Everybody should be able to vote. Even prisoners. Votes determine the government, and the government should always be accountable.

gapotape looks great. expensive though. Needs foaming in at very least imo. Airtight.

"No taxation without representation" Or "No representation without taxation" Alan B'Stard

We should remove universal suffrage and only allow votes based on whether you are a net contributor to society. 16 year olds now. Too young to buy fags or have a drink but get a say in how the country is run. What next primary school pupils.

One of the reasons why i hate those slopes when i see them in any property. You are going to have to try and get some insulation in there, while maintaining airflow under the tiles if you have a cold roof.

I don't understand what is being asked here. Are you asking if the force of the waste will squeeze itself between the pipe and the fitting then down to the rubber?! Ive forgot how neurotic you can be when doing a project. You get paralysed by decisions and worries like this. It won't be a problem.

I thought that was my Mrs for a minute @Pocster. Then i realised that the lack of stocking tops ment it could not be her....... In my dreams.

@Spinny Found a plumber for you . PM for details of her previous jobs

As long as the fans have been installed correctly, without excessive ducting, you will be fine. It takes less than a minute per extract. I suspect the cooker hood rates are made up.

Looking for advice again from you good folks if it's not too much trouble, this time it's in my loft. For whatever reason the architects thought it would be a good idea to have 45 degree internal plasterboard around the outside walls of the house. See attached photo for what I mean. Only issue with this - there is zero insulation on the back of the plasterboard and these points sit right in front of the soffit ventilation ports. We put vertical radiators in (not my decision) so literally radiating heat against a surface that's being cooled at high velocity in the loft with fresh air! I am proposing cutting 100mm (or 75mm) PIR and placing this between the rafters in contact with as much of the plasterboard as possible. I would be sure to allow sufficient space 25-40mm in front of the pir so air can circulate freely through the soffit vents. Questions are: What's the best way to detail this Should I friction fit, or use some kind of adhesive Should I foam around the edges in contact with the rafters and then also add foam in the 45 degree gap that will be formed between the PIR and vertical plasterboard Any other thoughts or suggestions

I guess you could use solvent weld for the first fitting? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-solvent-weld-single-socket-pipe-coupler-grey-110mm/13738

Here is the clearer photo of the ground floor manifold