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Thanks Nick. Yeah, I do intend to speak to the neighbours. Whilst we're not close, mostly due to being like ships in the night really, the relationship is fine and so I don't anticipate any problems other than awkwardness of what to say and be asking for! In terms of remedy, do you think it would be unreasonable/unrealistic for them to be relaying the last row such that it sits flush? I wouldn't be surprised if the roofer might think that's too much effort and opt to do something else like lift my tile slightly to make up most of the gap, then the next one slightly less and so on until the gap is absorbed across a series of tiles!

Not if it solves a problem.. I've only ever used them on site, so that the thunderbox never needed emptying. One moved from job to jobby and saved probably £thousands. An option is to use solid pipe and gravity til out of the house, then pump up to another solid pipe. The outside units are different in appearance . Then only you know there is an occasional rumbling noise in a manhole.

They are also labelled as 3000Kelvin colour temperature which is on the warm/organgey end - not ideal for task lighting, you would be better off with 4000K+

HATO appear to make agricultural lighting. Do yours look like this...https://www.hatolightingsolutions.com/hwdk-c-led/ ? And if so... So quite probably you are seeing the full brightness (unless perhaps they are second hand and someone might have changed the default setting.) Looks like they are 60V constant current LED strips rather than the more normal constant voltage type. Good for chicken sheds apparently.

Stop now, or regret forever more. Suck it up, fit the pipe. You can use 3” pipe btw, instead of 4”, if you didn’t know that.

One assumes they’d come on ‘full chat’ with no control signal present. Not seen or fitted these before though.

Its a sika product. It will be ace!

And...

So...

There are only two alternative routes: Falling 100mm across 5m (1:50 so OK)but would then need to create a box out at the bottom of a large floor to ceiling window which would look terrible Passing through the ceiling of the en-suite below and then having a large box out along the ceiling to take the 110mm pipe about 1m across the ceiling It's a bit late in the game too as tiling and things have been done in the rooms below based on using a small pipe.

Knock next door and state your concerns. Ask what work was done and show them the pics. The roofer should have replaced like-for-like, as these are clearly historic installations which when new worked perfectly well. They may have added a tray and / or changed to a bigger batten (or doubled up) vs just renewing like for like at the last course, which was likely a knee jerk from doing new roofs in isolation vs retrospective repairs. Needs correcting as heavy / driven rain is defo going to get in there and the felt is not meant to deal with that. Snow (melting) will likely be way more of a concern.

Sounds like a challenge. Why not ‘exactly’? FYI I have run 5m of 110mm almost snooker table flat before (to get rid of one of these forever-failing offending articles) and not a days trouble ever since. I’d stick £20 on this being doable.

I haven't been on the site for a while - I hope everyone is well. Apologies that it's a problem that brought me back... Our semi-detached neighbours have just had done some roofing work done to fix a leak around their dormer. This required the removal of quite a few tiles, including the whole bottom row (on their side). Looking out of our dormer window, and which the photo below shows, I've noticed there's now a bit of a gap in the side overlap where their tiles meet ours: I got my ladders out at the weekend (my most feared tool - not a great fan of heights!) to take a closer look and was expecting (hoping!) that it'd just be a case of jiggling the tiles into place if they hadn't quite been seated properly... However, this wasn't the case. No amount of jiggling was going to make a difference and so I gave up. What I didn't spot whilst up there though, but which I can now see quite clearly in the first photo and from ground level too, is that their whole row of bottom tiles sits higher than ours. I actually think theirs are *too* high and it would not surprise me if in heavy rain they may find water overshooting over the gutter! That's not my concern though; I'm just worried about the gap we've end up with where our bottom rows join. Specifically, wind-driven rain (although I expect the felt would safely carry it into the gutter?) or even birds nesting? With this situation in mind, what possible remedies might the roofer have to resolve this, other than removing and relaying with a batten (or whatever sits underneath) of matching thickness? Would any other remedy be considered something of a bodge? For example, how about a wedge of mortar in the gap similar to how the tiles running up the edge of the roof have in them?

When we extended the house we wanted the extension to contain an ensuite In order to do this we had to consider using 1. Macerator pump unit 2. External soil pipe and vent 3. Internal soil pipe (boxed) 1 was easiest, 2 would look horrible but was a better option than 1, 3 was the most work but overall would give the perfect result of not using 1 or having unsightly external soil stacks I'm with @Nickfromwales except I'd rather sh*t in my hands and then clap over my head than go down the macerator route

Macerators are definitely a serious compromise, but sometimes needs must. The whole path is down hill but I can't fit 110mm pipe, just 32mm solvent weld. The path is approximately 5m at a low downwards slope, then 3m straight down followed by 0.3m at a gentle slope leading into the 110mm stack. It should be as kind to the macerator as possible.

Do you have a self sealing waste( Dry Trap ) valve fitted, or is it literally straight into a bucket? If not it may be able to draw air back into its self. Not sure what this would do but probably not ideal. My Zehnder could draw air in that way, making gurgling noises once there was condensation.

Yes those joist pics are too compressed down now to see the detail. Looks a bit like ours, is it a 1930's house ? We had some damp in ends of joists adjacent to our porch (see photos) but not as severe as yours. Cut the ends off worst ones, some sistering, and modified joist layout with a hanger off the other wall. Ours was due to water getting through under the porch because the ground slopes downhill towards the house at the front. We have yet to get a new outside ACO type drain in ourselves. The original DPM directly under the joist ends was disintegrating (old bitumen felt type stuff). New DPM put in under and over the ends of the retained/sistered joists and everything treated with a boron woodworm/preservative. Nearest u/floor air vent was blocked with newspaper, which they apparently used to do in 'olden days' to try and keep warm. So cleaned that out and other bits of rubbish to improve air flow.

The larger bit of pipe (500mm section) is a non-rigid / semi-flexible piece of pipe used to mitigate vibration / nuisance noise throughout the downstream discharge pipework You can convert to ‘rigid’ PVC or copper after that. 👍. Only ever fitted Saniflows sorry, but I doubt Grundfos wouldn’t be comparable tbh. Next issues will be how high up you need to pump etc. Needs to comply with the installation diagram in case of a warranty claim. For completeness, I’d rather 💩 in a bucket than fit one of these.

Defo not an issue. Some AC units and fan coils can be set to not go to a low enough temp to produce condensation, to mitigate needing a waste pipe or pumped solutions. All good

@Sparrowhawk is currently on the case ironing out the file size upload wrinkle. Bear with!

Try something like https://www.simpleimageresizer.com/ to resize the images before uploading.

Joist pics

Timber frame around the perimeter for the Astro to be attached to, but can be peeled back carefully for inspection. under Astro - sharp sand, then type one MOT compacted then earth. Before Astro - per picture, decorative stones, on top of the type one MOT. Stones removed prior to Astro going down. Rotten joist pics attached Yes I think there must have been as as you can see the joints were previously sistered, so clearly someone has attempted to fix them before we moved in but not the underlying issue. no air brick Cant See the dpm, render outside so isn’t obvious yep we have had damp marks inside the doors joists run left to right **joist pics to follow - even though they are under 2mb, the site won’t allow me to post as apparent they’re over so will try to convert them

yeah but as I said drains on the opposite side of the plot . Managed to get hold of the neighbor (another LL) and his tenants have reported cracks in the same place their side - so I'm on insurers back now.

Welcome. There's a whole winter's worth of reading here. Many of us have been here for years - and still find its worth the effort to waste time learning stuff.