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I think you're right this is a red flag, you need to be absolutely clear with the architect that you haven't engaged them and they don't have your authority to engage with anyone else. It's just way too early for this and possibly unnecessary. If the architect is acting without your authority now then I'd see it as a sign they may be hard to work with later when you need to collaborate on design and work within your budget. There are plenty of good architects out there and I'd want to hire someone who made a better first impression.

That would be handy.

I rented a "power scythe" to deal with the vegetation but it sounds like you might need a digger with a blade on the front. Got any friendly local farmers? They could plough it up and reseed it for you. Otherwise get quotes from grass or landscaping companies.

It's hard to know if a planning consultant is going to be worth it or not. In my case it was but we had an an unusual situation. Our Architect wasn't a very dynamic person and didn't go out of his way to challenge the planners. The planning consultant was better at that.

Thank you. There response to why the external consultant was initiated was that she could advise on any planning policy pitfalls and cost a robust planning statement to accompany an application? Isn't this normally part of the architects job? Her fees look in the thousands!!

Steamy is volunteering. 3/4 acre !! I suggest find an agricultural contractor who can mow it really hard. and repeat. for a meadow you need to remove all that scrub to stop it being nutrient to grasses.`Orchard and meadow is my plan. and I rather like the look and practicality of prairie planting:

The only SSR I use is for my solar dump controller. I guess I went into it knowing at the heart of an SSR is some kind of semiconductor that will have a voltage drop when on, and thus dissipate heat. I did not use DNI rail as they have no particular way to get rid of that heat. Instead I used one that has a metal back plate that bolts to a heatsink with some heatsink compound. Even at full power it is barely warm to the touch.

I'd just fill them with intumescent mastic.

I would clear the rubbish that's there already make flat, then leave until spring, then kill every that pokes it head up with an agricultural weed killer. Level as required, leave for 4 weeks and kill everything again. Then try not to disturbed soil to much or more annual weeds will come up. Brambles will keep coming up for so you will need to keep on top of those over time. Then do what you will with it.

The suggestion was for after you've got the short grass you said you wanted somewhere up above. 😉

Dunno if this applies for you: Scottish building standards technical handbook section 2.1.14 allows penetrations of up to 40mm diameter without remedial measures.

I agree with Mr Punter go back to the SE and ask them how the external leaf is supported. I just love a set of computer generated calculations which mean very little to the average builder and lack any "constructional" details which explain how the designed beam interacts with the building.

Yeah that wont do it. I have a Mountfield ride on mower and that's not up to the job of bouncing over the clumpy bits, its not a brush cutter after all.

Can we presume you have approved drawings for this project. Did they show the wc connection? Isn't the roof construction shown on them?

I can see where you are coming from, however, drawings do not always show the full picture and the outside ground level may not have been clear... but given the "average" GL to FFL is say 3.0m, for it then to end up at more than 4.5m and not to have flagged a potential concern at an earlier stage is a shame.

Good morning and welcome, being able to visualise something is a big advantage. Loads of information available on here by searching past threads and blogs.

Welcome! Best of luck with it.

Ask the SE if there is anything you are unsure of. It is what you pay them for. A normal lintel is easier to deal with. I have used the Hi Therm ones before and they give you the psi values which is useful for your SAP calcs. Maybe some of your openings are too wide, so beams are the only way?

Morning. attatched garage I have 4 x25mm holes between the house and the attached garage, each hole has a 25mm conduit in it with a couple of cables in each. what are the regs for any fire prevention measures between the garage and the house, around the area of these cables. any thoughts. cheers.

lol . Yeah it’s coming in from outside the plot - impossible to pinpoint . I’m going to do my channel plan . This is the 1st leak in months - though there has been plenty of rain k er that time . It’s a management issue not a fix issue as tried that .

I do like this forum. Some very useful information , and real life feedback here. Thanks for the additional detail @TerryE Tres bien. 👌.

Boilers usually have the trap inbuilt . I’ve fitted more gas boilers than I care to remember, and we’ve never had to fit a 3rd party trap. And yes, your pic is spot on.

Oh bloody Hell, @Pocster . I feel genuinely sorry for you. There's something insistent about a leak isn't there. Every damn forecast is watched for -will-that-rain-make-my-leak-worse. Reeeely annoying. Your idea appears to me to mean : - I could create a sump - But I know how it feels - if you can't see the leak, there's no leak...... As you say above, I prefer control too. Just reassure me would you (this thread is so long) have you tried leak tracing dye? (£10 from Screwy's)

2am plan occurred to me . Tank around the edge of the opening to prevent tracking . Solvent weld pipe cut in half length ways to form a gully / apron . All round the edge ditra tiling mat then round the inside of the opening sitting in the gully . Pipe outlet from that into the wall membrane. What could go wrong !

I use ½ blanks between my contactors, but a couple of W in a steel CU isn't really an issue. I had probs with my DIN mounted SSRs especially as my sparky had used an abs box. Luckily it was in a large closed cupboard so I could leave the cover off. I prefer my current setup. The RH unit was my sparky's work. The LH contains: 24VDC power, <gap>, contactor 1, <½gap>, contactor 2, <flyback diodes>, contactor 3, <½gap>, contactor 4 The 24V Tasmota 4×relay module is below. The red /black switch loom is all 24V.