All Activity

Hi all,can anybody tell me if the heat geek super cyclinder is worth the premium price,as I can get a Gledhill cyclinder for half the cost,or does anybody recommend a DHW heat pump cyclinder. Thanks Glenn

Timer to come on as setback; can deliver the temps you want, when you want them, and switch off midday Sunday to allow the space to be heated residually until cold.

With UFH you need to assume constant heat to make the most of it, otherwise a cold slab just takes too long for weekend working. We put in two over sizes radiators, on their own zone off the ASHP. With insulation all round (except the slab), and within an hour it's toasty warm for that sudden bout of working or playing on there!

Click ‘mode’ is what I use on 99% of my projects. Quite a nice looking item a-la MK logic. https://www.electrical2go.co.uk/click-scolmore-white-plastic-mode-13a-double-switched-socket-with-type-a-c-usb-4-2a.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21780069279&gbraid=0AAAAADiZC_kA49_IENKVCmHNNxnGmWfmR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6LSNwLjDlgMVwKRQBh2FbAu7EAQYASABEgLGbvD_BwE

@Alan Ambrose the sheet suppliers will have pre cut/formed fillers. Do you need the ridges to breath? Composite panels make like so much easier than separate liner trays, insulation / rails and then loose top sheet.

Mini bar?

It's bizarre. The two which they skipped were for 3 Veluxes from Sydenhams and Celotx boards from Insulation Online (CMO Superstores) - no idea why they missed those out. Especially as four of the invoices they did ask for are the deposit and balance for our floor tiles and deposit and balance for the timber cladding - you'd imaging if the balance invoice was valid the deposit invoice doesn't really need checking. Probably all selected by AI!

That's different. I'm sitting now in what will be oug garage and it has a very agricultural floor. I don't see why we need to improve it for garden stuff, a mower and maybe even a car to sit on. If I too engines apart that would be different. My man cave in the corner will get some marmox on it, then levelled with latex and then... I think a floor of many colours, using leftover tiles*. 6" pir in the walls and ceiling of the boxout. Electric, probably infrared, heating. * there's a thing... I have boxes and stacks of spare tiles sitting in the shed "just in case". You can be sure that heavy iron pots have been dropped in the kitchen, and that floors have moved. No tile has broken , ever. They might if there was grotty workmanship on the dot and dab principle, but the adhesive contact is total and loads go straight to the screed. Tile if you want, using those free tiles that will take up space until you move.

This is all wonderful. I can get AI to do my structural calculations too, or SAP report, but the BCO wont accept them. Has to be from a competent person. Even if that same person might be using the exact same method. Though "competent" is open, currently, to interpretation. I imagine that will change, bringing yet another layer of cost and complexity to bear.

What Nick said about porcelain on a solid bed. you wont break it dropping spanners. I jacked cars up with a trolley jack with steel wheels on them. thats some crazy point loads. they were fine.

Click is a Scolmore brand https://scolmore.com/products/type-a-c-usb-sockets

Again, out of nosiness, who is doing your Building Control, and will your architect be Principal Designer for Building Regs, or will you and your husband be Principal Designer, Principal Contractor and Client? Some threads on here relate to those roles.

Welcome, and I wish you the best of luck. But, have you got really good reasons for straw bale walls? You can achieve your "sustainability and use local materials" goals without going this far. Your site appears a little "width constrained". A more efficient insulator may release more internal room widths.

UFH loops in the slab already with 100mm PIR underneath 😀

Just after levelling the ‘wet plant’ room, I took this pic of my current clients build. You can see the access coupler 100mm or so above FFL. This offers rodding access from there to the IC with complete ease. Not going to happen. You are fine to ‘chill out’.

Welcome! Is this wrap-round or infill? If the latter what are you doing to mitigate the thermal bridge of the posts? Out of nosiness what is the insulation detail for the floor of the oversailing part? Good luck! It'll be fun.

I think they would line it internally but its not a bad point.

Good luck. I have a friend in Docking. Nice part of the country.

Thanks for allowing me join this self-builder community. I'm building my home, and first project of this scale, in Norfolk with my husband. We are trying to be considerate of sustainability and use local materials when possible within our rather modest budget. Our architect has designed a timber framed structure with straw bale walls. We are doing all the construction work ourselves unless it requires certification, specialists or we get stuck! Neither of us have formal building experience, so are learning as we go. I'm hoping this forum will be an invaluable source of information and advice. I'd really appreciate anything which helps us get things right first time and avoids costly mistakes! Hopefully in return I can offer some entertainment value with our dodgy DIY antics!!

Porcelain is ridiculously hard, and if laid ‘bed & butter’ aka solid bed then a dropped spanner will literally bounce off them. Ceramic is a categoric “NO” for this application. Also, in a workshop, the floor will get marked either way, so +1 for tiling from me. You could even select a 15-20m2 area and put electric under tile heating and spoil yourself. My future garage / workshop / man-cave would have UFH and split A2A AC (heating and cooling) without a second thought.

Yeah it's not the rodding that concerns me, just that the plastic or rubber seal may degrade in a few decades and I'll have no reasonable way of getting to it.

My logic is that other things go wrong. Eg one toilet in my house sometimes doesn't clear. It needs a shove and all is well again until another time. I suspect it is over use of TP and not a scientific thing. On one job a long drain blocked when the occupier moved in. The drain had never been used officially. It turned out to be a sanitary product in mid run. It had run out of speed. Then it affects subsequent use. ie low use can cause issues too. A neighbour had 'stuff' appearing in a downstairs wc from the one above. Was all according to regs. Ie other things go wrong and I'd rather it was outside and simple. But do it to regs and it will mostly work and always be roddable.

I disagree completely. Wet nursing someone isn’t a help, it’s a hinderance.

I think the note is just poorly placed, and is referring to the toilet opposite the bath.

I did consider this, and yes it would be preferable, but there is a thick limecrete foundation cap (which is already built) that the pipe would need to run through in order to be at the required gradient. So this design is a work-around that involves no adjustment to the foundation which I'm hoping will still work!