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Do they show a black beard? Or Seaman Stanes.

Shifting spoil at 7pm last night I cut down the cheap cotton work trousers they sometimes sell in Liddl / Aldi just below the knee pad pockets. They work quite well as pirate pants; all the extra rips and tears just add to the ventilation potential and I still have all my pockets and a hammer loop and knee pads. Cut upwards behind the knee for extra relief. Drives the girls mad... Straw hat with built in solar power fan Work boots was the worst bit. Last time I was in Hungary I found a shop selling steel toe sandals but didn't have enough pocket money. I'm deffo buying them the next time I visit!

good idea. Cheap enough that you could buy now to trial before you spend money on plumbing the house.

I agree that induction hobs are terrible for woks, but I've seen one of these in action in a restaurant and they are fantastic. Worth considering to save you a lot of hassle. https://www.nisbets.co.uk/buffalo-induction-wok/ja372

hopefully someone has the time to do the maths or get Ai to do it. But my guess is that water at 15-16C has nowhere near enough potential cooling in it to strip the humidity out of incoming humid air before the MHVR. (Dehumidifying humid air uses a similar amount of energy to cooling it). The MHVR can do effective bulk dehumidification but only to a limit. So my thought is let it do that for free then use the coils to take a bit more off the top once the MHVR has done as much as it can.

Yes. MVHR and actual cooling ability is pretty rubbish as flow rates are small. I was talking about management of humidity margin in cooling, so the RH is actually lowered by the MVHR. Having the unit upstream of heat exchanger cools the air and causes it condense, then it's reheated by the outgoing house air via the heat exchanger changing the RH. Net effect is lower RH when compared to outside air. One of the issues in winter with MVHR is it lowers the humidity levels too much with prolonged cold outside temperatures, you are just duplicating those effects to your advantage.

I'm now planning for Insulation, UFH and screed. We have no mains gas on site, but I'd like to run an LPG Wok Burner on our Kitchen island. Ideally, I'll have an bottle/tank positioned in an outdoor location that I can pipe to a built-in BBQ and to the LPG Wok Burner. But how to run the pipe? I know I'll need a Gas Safe guy to commission this work, but what would be a usual way to run a gas pipe across my Kitchen to an island? Should it be sleeved copper, with no connections, in the screed? It's a Beam & Block subfloor by the way. It's about 5.5m from the planned entry point to the Island. Has anyone done something similar?

You have read this haven't you.

Especially the pesent isnt dead enough, and has just enough energy to make a run for it. I never wanted the ruddy cats in the first place.

Agree with that thought. let the mhvr do the bulk to the dehumidification for free. The coil just does the top off. It means the temp difference between the water and air will be lower so less effective. But there’s no way near dew point water will be able to suck much out of the air but even a small amount might be enough.

I see you have shiny ridge clamps. We had this also, the roofer had ordered cheaper ridge kit than vmzinc that came in ral 7016 but the coating came off. The roofer agreed to go up on the ridge and shape a peice of roof material to cover the brackets and looks well.

I actually powder coated my clamps to be the same colour as the roof 🤪 but not sure it achieved much 🫤 My standing seam is at 400 instead of 600 centres, to reduce canning, something else for you to think about 🤔

@JohnMo This was one of those things I tried to get a clear answer for from the architect, BC and the window fitters. For me I cannot see how its possible to solve that problem since the steel above goes from the outside to the inside. Per the architects drawings I wrapped the uprights in uber expensive space therm (the white in the pic) -- but honestly have no idea since it is air gapped from everything anyway so seemed complete waste of money -- I was going to put spacetherm on the top steel as well but when speaking to the fitters the doors were at least 20mm short of the top and they just filled it all with expanding foam, which I guess kind of addresses the contact between the window frames and the steel (at the expense of frame strength I would assume) but since that top steel goes all the way from inside to out I wasn't sure how to solve it. I've used 37.5mm insulated plasterboard across the top on the inside but really not if that helps of hinders. @Gus Potter Thanks for this. I'll give it a go over the weekend.

Any particular reason to place this upstream of the MVHR unit? I may be missing something, but this way you'd lose some of the "coolth" through heat exchanger inefficiency. That inefficiency could potentially be worsened by moisture in the outgoing air condensing due to the cold incoming air.

I was thinking about this last night also. A coil upstream of the MVHR unit (outside to MVHR leg) would cool the air and cause condensation which would reduce the moisture carried by the air. Condensation would be cleared away by MVHR drain or drain within heat exchanger. As outside air travels through heat exchanger it is then heated by house air temperature, diving RH to a happier place. Then run MVHR as normal and get lower internal humidity and more dew point safety margin.

How thick, and over what? Ceramic or porcelain tiles?

The person who invents an AI camera system to identify when a cat is carrying a 'present', trying to get through the cat flap but then shuts the cat flap will make a fortune.

I think I would have been happy to pay for additional pv to roof connectors so that there was one on each standing seam (as with @Russdl's setup). The asymetry od skipping one seam would have my OCD twitching every time I looked at them!

OK, I've got a small area to screed and tile, around 8.5m2, and I was thinking of using a semi-dry mix and tiling within eight weeks!!

I think it’s well established that a hydronic heat exchanger in line with the MHVR doesn’t really have the oomph for real heating and cooling. I’d always thought to add a smallish one anyway with the hope of maybe bringing the mhvr output air temp above/below* the ambient internal temp vs just below/above* due to mhvr efficiency. Thinking being that not every room would be exposed to ufh so the mhvr coil would just help distribute the heat/cool more widely (Wouldn’t even think about it if couldn’t find a suitable cheap coil) This thread has made me wonder if that coil might have a useful dehumidifier aspect during heatwaves like this. If you are running the flow temp low enough to cause condensation on the floor then inevitably the exposed coils in the heat exchanger would be cooler than the floor and attract more condensation. If running only a touch below dew point then maybe the excess moisture preferentially condenses in the mhvr coil and prevents condensate forming on the floors. So not full bore dehumidification but just enough to allow you to lower the floor temp a degree or two more than you otherwise would. Does this stand up to reality? * depending on whether you are heating or cooling (in that order)

I have just been looking at mine again, with water temp of 16/17deg there is a tiny bit of moisture on the manifold downstairs - temp 25.4 and humidity 47% ( around 10% higher than normal) gives a dew point of 13.3 deg so not concerned downstairs upstairs is around 28 degs and 57% humidity so has a decent amount of condensation on the manifold as dew point 18.3 deg. Upstairs is mainly carpets except tiled bathroom but tbh the ufh is pretty ineffective upstairs so not concerned however I have just turned the manifold valves off. Unfortunately I have no way of isolating the flow and return pipes to u/s manifold but pipes are lagged in the ceiling Does anyone see any issues here? I am new to using ufh/ASHP for cooling but it certainly makes a difference downstairs and a lot more humid than usual

I had exactly the same about 6 months ago. Quick online chat and diagnostic and a new gen 3 through the door about 2 days later

Not the same materials, however we had a cast iron seat on our porcelain tiles, when I moved it there were little rust marks where it had been stood. Nothing shifted those rust marks, tried everything… …and then I used a Brillo Pad, and that did it. May work for you?

Interesting topic - Heat Geek have just released a video on the subject and there was one thing that got my attention bearing in mind I am all rads (no UFH) and they are almost all converted to TBOE from a flow perspective - I will one day convert to heat pump but when the boiler dies or Gas v Electricity cost perspective drives the change. Anyway here it is

I reckon it’s identical and as you say the distance from the ground that the photo is taken makes it look different. Not much though, smart set up.