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Phone Scottish water and they will send somebody out to sort it.

Gave it some big welly. In both directions to the extent the tool remains firm on the lug but the T-bar is at 45° and the rod mental is in full twist but it won't budge a midges ball hair. I'm right (am I not) that to turn OFF you screw clockwise? Zoom in its a flat bar connection, standard stuff...

Nice fella at the garage near work extended the stop cok key. Asked how much, don't be daft he said, wonderful that some folk are just so nice

What do your plans actually say about roof angle? Big difference between 12 degs and pretty much flat. Our 12 degs roof is 2.5 block work one side of the building and closer to 3.5 to 4m at the other (staggered wall).

I have been driven up the wall trying to figure out how to connect pipework to a Crosswater Fusion concealed shower valve. To my mind the installation instructions contradict themselves and I'd appreciate to hear a more qualified interpretation than my own (I'm a Carpenter not a Engineer of any description) The valve has: G 3/4" (BSPP) female shower head port. There is no seat for a rubber seal to sit in this port (and none show on the diagram) G 3/4" (BSPP) male H&C inlet ports. Rubber edged gauze washer/filter are required to be installed on the ports The instruction specifically state: Make all pipe connections using a proprietary thread sealer Do not use tapered threaded adaptors My understanding is that a female port (where a rubber seal and seat for that seal is absent) requires the mating male to be tapered thread (BSPT) and wrapped with thread sealer to make the joint; and where the male ports have a rubber edge filter provides the seal then using thread sealer (Locktight 55 cord for example) may hinder making the joint. If that understanding is correct then the instruction are surely contradictory?

If you think your report will be credible then fit them and take readings fortnightly, listing on a spreadsheet. Summarise the weather over the period. Take photos too. Lots .They can always be deleted. But if you are going to engage an SE then why not now? They won't mind you doing your own thing in the interim. But just phone one, maybe two and don't send that inquisition form.

Suggest just call up, describe the problem in round terms, send them a few pics and ask them to take a look and give an opinion. Maybe an informal opinion and recommendation rather than a report. They may charge for their time but it’s probably money well spent. They’ll like dealing with you if they don’t have to explain the basic laws of physics 😀.

In summary then. Flatness is in the perception of the user specifier For solar we want it to tilt a long way up. To keep rain out it depends entirely on the construction and product. For insurance, Insurers make their own rules without understanding construction. I've certainly never declared anything at 10 to 15%. In real life, I regard my walk to the shop as far from flat. It's been interesting. For fun I asked AI how steep Ben Nevis is (not direct via the cliffs) The average gradient of the standard tourist route (the Ben Nevis Mountain Track) is approximately 10% to 15% (or roughly 1 in 10 to 1 in 7 overall), with a maximum gradient capped at 1 in 5 (20%). [1, 2] Route Gradient Details Overall Average: Roughly 10% to 15% grade across the entire ~8 km horizontal distance (1,345 m total ascent). Maximum Gradient: 1 in 5 (20%), which was specifically engineered when the path was originally built for ponies supplying the top observatory. Steepest Sections: Parts of the lower slopes and the upper zig-zags approach that maximum 1 in 5 limit. So, @LSB back to the original post: from the pictures it looks as if your estimate of 440mm or whatever is about right. So you have 2 challenges. 1. You have to detail and build the roof very well to keep the rain out, esp at edges and interfaces. 2. That is very flat and inefficient for solar so maybe play the game, using the newly allowed balcony solar. Later you might go back to planning for a higher system. A few hundred mm would likely be allowed. in fact I'd want to reclad with double skin, insulated. That will be higher but nobody will question it unless you have an enemy with binoculars.

1026 kWh are you sure, that is correct - I have 9-11kW (added another 1840W just recently) of panels and 7kW of inverter in NE Scotland, so far this year at nearly 4000kWh. Plus most my panels are vertical, so optimised for winter production not summer.

To put things in context From the calculator on https://solarenergyconcepts.co.uk/post/panels-tilt/ for a notional 10kw system If optimal 36 deg for South East gives 1,026 kwh Then 15 deg gives 963 kwh and zero deg gives 940kwh My understanding (from a previous insurance question) is that flat is defined as anything less than 15-deg Regards Tet

Flat roof definition of up to 10 degrees is in a number of British Standards on roofing.

I will buy some and place them on all the cracks ive pictured, but i was wondering if a structural engineer would take offence, as someone mentioned about the document ive produced. Also should i apply them and get an engineer in say October to give some usefull info, as the weather will have changed by then? what's the approach i should take, structural engineer now, or apply these and wait till october? These cracks may have happened when we had that really bad snow and there was a lot of thick snow on the roof. I think the pointing is in need of re doing so the walls probably could be stronger. As it happens I'm an engineer just not a structural one, so I need an approach to take, as I'm not too sure on how to approach this.

The stainless steel ones seem pretty good. I had one fitted and it stopped the rats and has not caused blockages. Some of them have a mechanism that allows them to be fitted fairly deep in an inspection chamber.

It does to me. If it feels steep then the rain runs freely down it, and doesn't drive far up in wind. If it feels flat then water sits, especially at any dips and laps. It depends of course on what material and on workmanship, and it is sensible to assume a roof may not all be as designed. I've looked at your links now: thanks for back referring. I see they are one manufacturer's definition for their cold applied product. Maybe they need it. But to me 10° is steep. That's 18% or 1.8m over a 10m width. The tools and materials are in danger of sliding down that on the metal roof of the original question. I've seen drills sliding down that sort of slope. On a road i think 'steep' is defined as about 10% and a pedestrian ramp at 5%. I do prefer % as the sums are easier.

Claude's (expletive deleted)ing thick today!

1 section. Its quite common to have a hole like this somewhere. On some sites they cut a hole 1400 by about 200 to pass plasterboard up through then nog and patch after.

I have been looking at this seriously recently the conclusion is unless you can spend 70k or more on one its a total waste of time although they say these cheap vertical units they are rated at 5kw /10kw -- that is maximum theoretical output before any losses etc and you need to be in winds of 25mph + to get close to that and then the cost of a suitable mounting pole and foundation most of these small units you will be lucky to ever get more than 1kw from them -and do we believe the life span - I do not--its basically an electric motor on its back spinning 24/7 so I have decided better to have some more ground mounted solar panels up in the high level waste garden If I do anything --which will face south-separate invertor coupled to my 17.5kw battery stack as my main array on the roof faces S/w and get little output once you get later in the year because of lower sun angle and little till late morning -- but once the sun gets at them -- i can see 11kw+ so the idea is to fill in the morning and as they face south will also carry on all day another 5kw of panels -- still waiting on costs to make final decision but although I have lots of wind it would never pay back in my life time with a smaller wind turbine so for anyone not in a very windy position it will never work

From the links I put up and from the roofers who put the Sika membrane on my extension. With all due respect, I don't think how it feels when walking on it, determines how it's classed.

I wouldn't. It is a well made , fit for purpose, and precise thing, and I don't think expensive. The only issue would be if the crack has completed its shrinking and starts to close again when the rains come. I think it would just shatter then, but still a point proven. Maybe glue one side only and take measurements and photos to account for this happier possibility.

How good are you at keeping records? Could easily make your own

Yep, volts is key here, low volts mean big amps and big cables. So if your battery is 48v dig deep in the pocket, it won't be cheap. Have battery and inverter close.

Where does that definition come from? I must have done 250,000m2 at 10% using steel. It didn't feel flat when walking on it.

OK so it is rather flat. Metal will have to be very well detailed and built as water will drive uphill in strong wind. That needs serious thought and close supervision. Screwed panels are OK, despite what some people say IF done well with top quality screws Hilti etc. I've known more problems with felt/ fibreglass as it's often done badly.

Yes, no, as long as possible, yes. It is a "tell-tale" I think glued is preferred as it doesn't twist.

Should I use one of these, before I involve a local structure engineer? 1) can I glue it, rather than screw? 2) will they want to supervise the installation? 3) how long is useful for a device like this to be in place? 4) will a structural engineer find this helpful or not.