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This is pretty much irrelevant tbh. The 'losses' aren't really losses as they go into the heated envelope of the house, so do their bit on contribution. Honestly, I'd wait and see what your heat loss calc says and then review from there as they may be so small if you're going near ph that even a 4kW heat pump would be too big. The other ball to chuck into the mix for a highly efficient house for heating is an exhaust air heat pump, which simultaneously deals with your heating, MVHR and DHW. The you can go multi-split for your air-con. Just make sure that the person doing your heat loss actually understands whole house MVHR and models the heat loss accordingly - lots don't and then calculate normal ventilation losses.

Nearly half the yearly production though, so effectively doubling the installed price. Left is South facing and right is North facing.

Yes it came from Nolan at NSR, we bought it nearly 2 years ago now it, was second hand, already set up as it is. Slightly unusual as the truck was 8 years old when we got it, but the camper unit less than 2 years old. the previous owner had upgraded to a larger camper unit recently. We went to NSR to look at the concept of the demountable camper, and this one was there that ticked all our boxes (many of them didn't) and 2 weeks later we flew down again to collect it and drive it the 600 miles home.

We're just about to fit the same quooker as above (pro 3) but looking to try and get drawer below, anyone "been there done it" ?

3 months since it was last attended to but it’s time to change the pre filter again, it’s fan noise that alerts me more than any diary considerations. When the fan speed automatically increases in the mornings and evenings it’s generally inaudible but as time goes by it starts to become noticeable. The pre-filter is collecting so much airborne dust! It’s also letting the tiny flies through, but I can see the route they are (involuntarily?) taking so I’ll endeavour to get that sealed up before the refit. (I ran the hoover over the centre section to see how thick the dust and dirt was).

For a current (MBC PH TF) project, the decision has been made to go for fa refrigerant based setup for domestic heating / cooling (via UFH) plus DHW (all via a plate heat exchanger), and a second setup for all of the first floor space heating and cooling. There is some considerable distance between the external units (x2) and the internal units, and to overcome this it has been suggested that a manifolded system is utilised. This is outside my wheelhouse as I mostly do wet (hydronic) systems, so am learning here too, but this certainly overcomes distance issues without a problem. Sizeable dwelling, circa 400m2, but (apparently) the proposed Daikin setup will perform perfectly well here; I think the furthest 2/3 units are >20m from A-B. Going for remote mounted chassis tucked into newly (purposefully created) closet / plant spaces vs units on the walls.

are concrete chimney tops not a thing where you are? https://www.carryduffbuildingsupplies.com/small-chimney-coping-27-x-60-686mmx1524mm.html

Here you go with project #41, lol.

Thank you. I'm buzzing!

The calculation of units is irrelevant : a calculator will sort that issue out. The word 'deemed' is the key thing. More important is the person (or organisation) that does the deeming : unless you control that entity. If there's any doubt about the process and the range of possible answers - then the cautious answer is yes it is more than likely to be inadequate.

Congrats then!

Which one are you fitting? The above is what I commented on, so are you using the two loose seals or the above?

North facing does come into play for some of our proposals, but only when economy of scale (and sufficient irradiance) justify it; mostly on very large or commercial projects but almost never sensible on domestic.

He said yes.

We had plenty of space under our sink to install it without cutting holes in the base! And we have the cube installed there as well. Have you got a particularly deep sink or something?

Maybe not, A2A is ok for £2.5k only and almost no one is approved, so don't hold your breath on that one. If you assume UFH is just part of house build cost. It all doesn't have to cost a lot to build a good performance system. I never bothered with the grants, would rather pay myself than get ripped off. Simple direct UVC for DHW, cheap as chips, save around £1000 compared to pre plumbed heat pump one. Charge on time off use tariff. Would be surprised if you need more than a 4kW heat source, from size of house and assuming better than Building Regs. If you want Aircon performance add a mixing valve to system and run fan coils at 6 degs, or just oversize the fan coils, decent fan coils have the output data for different flow temps. Or do everything A2A, don't bother with UFH. Still do direct water heating. Spend the money saved on a good system with good airflow regulation. Having lived in hot countries a number of years, the airflow became a thing of hate, once the novelty wore off.

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Marshalls-Smooth-Cast-Grey-Coping-Stone---140-x-600-x-50mm/p/154406

Another chimney related question. At the moment my chimney has a brick ‘corbel’ overhang 1 course deep, with flaunching directly on top. It’s in very poor condition and some of the bricks in this course have spalled. I’m going to remove the whole top of the stack. Ideally, I’d like whatever I use to have a drip detail on the underside - obviously not possible with brick, unless you try and carefully use a grinder? What about normal wall copings such as the below? Will the flaunching bond well with the smooth finish of the coping stone though? Ive also seen rosemary roof tiles used, but again, no drip profile. Am I overthinking this?

Make your mind up what units to use. 400,000 [£] / 372 [m2] = £1,075/m2 which is pretty cheap.

My build is finished, warranty provider are ready to publish their certificate but the reinstatement cost is only £400,000. Before we go any further, I built the whole thing myself for way less than that with a labour cost of sub £10k, excluding plumbing. My worry is that when trying to fund the build in the first place, I was encountering problems with "cost per sqm" which is a load hite with a capital S when you can do everything yourself but I dont want to get into that. As the house will be worth £1 - 1.2 million, could this reinstatement cost be deemed inadequate, going back to "cost per sqm" again? The house is 6 bed, 6 bathroom, 4000 sqft. This is purely if I sell or take out a mortgage or remortgage, I won't be making any claims. Thanks

The build will be relatively low energy, not approaching passive but certainly lower than most. I have to admit the air con type cooling does appeal to us. After I built our last house I said i'd never build another without aircon. It's a small luxury that I'd be happy to pay for. I suppose what I need to do is compare prices of a normal ashp for 1500 odd sq ft house versus this f gas system. I'm sure fan coils and UFH would have ok cooling capacity but would it be as good as a2a air con?! I think with the umbrella scheme the grant could be claimed either way. I asked AI and I think it was estimating the installation at 12-20k with the cost for the samsung gear estimated at 7-12k. I did ask AI about the distances of air con units from the pump and it was saying quite long, 7.5-10m. I imagine they are decent if Samsung market this as 1 unit can serve whole house. I'm a fair way off heat calcs yet as resubmitting a new planning app but will deffo be one to keep an eye on. The plumber was saying to me that with the f gas you don't get any heat loss from the pipework to the unit whereas with the A2W you do?

I always use a sled for cross cutting on the table saw. If you don't then pushing on the wood can cause it to bind on the saw blade. The sled pushes on the wood evenly right upto the blade so the cut doesnt tend to close up.

it seems pretty important in this instance, the trap doesnt have a screw in central funnel from top to bottom but looks more like it relies on the seals. The bottom seal looks like it does the brunt of the work to me? Id ditch the top seal and use CT1 I'd imagine as well, as I'd want it as low as possible in the recess.

Would be good to know. Please report back. Sadly, it sounds like the remedials involved chemical injection to prevent damp. Which it wont.

Thanks Gus! I'll keep you posted 🙂 Embarrassed that I haven't read any Adam Smith (yet).