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They can't do it, they can only use the information stored under your MPAN. You have to go through correct MPAN database to change address. We had to do similar, call your network installer - DNO (ours was SSEN) and they will point you in the correct direction. From what I remember it was quite straightforward.

What score do they say they will achieve with the airtightness test.

As mentioned above a flow sensor needs a system clean, and it needs to be air free. It seems to be the norm to install strainers, which pretty rubbish at stopping small stuff being circulated. You said you put cleaner in the system the other day. I would now look to flush that out, give the flow sensor a good clean. Refill, inhibit and biocide the system (biocide if you do cooling or routinely run below 35/40 degs. While you are at add a decent low flow resistance magnetic filter and delete the strainer.

With a flow sensor rather than a flow switch I guess yours is a gen 4 HP.... model number ending Ux4? In our earlier gen 3 there's a strainer inside the HP on the return pipe. If thats fitted is it clear? Have you got a magnetic filter in the return line? Ours picks up a bit of black gunk which is clearly magnetic. If youre getting a black coating inside the flow sensor and that coating has a metallic content then that could affect the sensor?? A mag filter is stated as mandatory in some LG documentation so well worth fitting and definitely worth fitting if you've got ferrous components like radiators in the system.

Not in the Prison i hope @SteamyTea

Further update from Octopus: "I’m sorry to hear that Royal Mail is taking some time to update their address database. Unfortunately, if we put through the request and the address is not updated with Royal Mail, it will be rejected on their end." Which begs a couple of questions: 1. Why do Octopus need Royal Mail's approval? 2. How did the current fictitious address come to be assigned to the meter? This is becoming Kafka-esque.

Finally a normal person (🤞) from Bristol! Unlike our @Pocster

Spent some time there.

Looks like that would just get you where you can use push fit. Remember that you need to buy a decent quality valve to bury in the wall as spares may be an issue later down the line. If a client is undecided I just use these https://ebay.us/m/slX6ED But check prices of the face plate that you then need to go with it. For eg Link eBay / Gumtree / farcebook marketplace are your friends here. Link

Welcome Mike. I'm only down the road in Bovingdon. I have permission to knock One, and build Two. Just working through my Building regs. Going to get started hopefully, early march 26.

You could clad the whole exterior of the untreated timber frame with a fireproof cement board. Then just cover it over with the cheapest cladding you can obtain. Have you explored this option at all? The cement board would add racking strength so may allow you to go for less materials in the TF construction, as if this is a taller than normal building then you’ll really need to rack the walls if going TF. Cement board would kill two birds with one stone there, but consider the weight when “designing” the roof.

Nick when can you start on my job as I'll probably be finished by June at this rate lol. I see what you mean about piping, I'll be overlapping the pipe run and im going to be using Pushfit so throws thickness of ply out. Looking this morning I'm just about to buy this plate https://www.plumbarena.co.uk/product/abacus-easi-plan-universal-shower-valve-fitting-plate-epfp-05-3005/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21120514031&gbraid=0AAAAADtJBDoeHhMCLjeUK4FC2lrF_Qksj&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6Y7KBhCkARIsAOxhqtP1ohFy0mOf-5zB5qx8SJeuu7FTAlUho74Upi9bA6eaf1QVWLH5lnMaAjeREALw_wcB That means I won't be on Plyboard for the Pattress but im assuming very thin frame here. I can't find any dimensions on depth of this thing. Maybe better as an option ?

Yup, just you’ll be routing out the back of the plasterboard to get pipe and fittings covered, particularly problematic if you’re using push fit plumbing instead of soldering copper pipes. If you can set it back another 10-15mm that would make plumbing much easier, and allow you to use push fit.

Hi, I was posting in the thread about extending stud. Maybe more appropriate in this section is whether the options are actually suitable! Does this work for concealed valve to a minimum line fitting?

Just had a quote for supply and erection of SIPs house, my house is 180sqm ground floor area with provision to convert loft 70sqm at later date, external walls 197mm SIP panels to give U value of 0.13 or 172mm SIP panels plus 25mm PIR internal insulation to give U value of 0.12, roof is of vaulted truss system with steels in to support and boarded out and insulated to 0.12, all supporting stud walls are supplied, posi joists are supplied for loft conversion and floor boarded out, all wall and roof locations made airtight and battened out for service void ready to plasterboard, all exterior areas made weather tight, all crane hire, delivery costs included, airtight test done after I fit windows, all paperwork done for building control, with quite a lot of structural support walls going in leaves me very few stud walls to put in after installation of screed floor, I am waiting on quotes from two other SIPs companies but does this seem a reasonable price at 100k? kind regards, Kevan.

My concrete slab is of good quality 250mm thick, level and strengthened with rebar. I Looked into the cost of a light gauge metal frame of the size I would require. I got a quote of £3800 not including delivery. I would have to build this and purchase metal cladding to sheet it. I just was not convinced about the structural stability of the frame. I’ve seen a few light gauge versions buckle under the weight of snow. Something we get a lot of. I also got a quote for a complete light weight metal frame, metal clad garage kit made to my sizes, flat packed ……£10000. Not including delivery and I would again need to build this. I can build a stud partition style wooden frame with pitched roof trusses. This is well within my DIY capabilities and budget. I also think it will be stronger than the steel frame and will have a degree of flex without buckling and creasing like light gauge steel. I’ve been told they used to make aeroplane air frames from wood for this very reason. The frame will need to be of rough sawn open grain untreated timber. This is so that the fire suppression coating known as Fireguard exterior can penetrate the timbers surface and provide a 30min barrier when two brush on coats are applied. You get approx 2 coats of 7m2 from one ltr. This should make the brush on coating of the built timber frame not to expensive. £80 per 5ltr tub my hope is that the application of the above metal sheeting instead of a timber cladding will in itself provide the level of internal and external fire suppression required for the buildings outer skin. Has anyone on the forum built a structure in this way before? if you have please let me know how you meet the building control technical standards specs. Information on any other unforeseen issues you encountered in getting building standards approval for your DIY build and the solutions would also be a great help. In the meantime I will continue to post how I progress with planning and building standards as it may help someone in the future trying to construct a sturdy and compliant garage built on a tight budget. Thank you Steve

I have a DHW loop but turned it off to be sure it was not the mixer valve. The flow goes straight through to buffer tank without any potential restriction points. So if there is a restriction it has to be in the heat pump. I think the thing to do is to confirm the actual flow so I can decide if the flow sensor is suspect or not.

Thanks, I did read that thread before posting, and did some of the checks which did not make any improvements.

I’ve copied this from a stray thread, as it’s better off here @Garage build, so folk have the back story and you don’t have to explain it all over again Hi I’m considering using ……. Metal Roof Sheet (34/1000 Box Profile) Polyester Paint Coated 0.7mm Juniper Green - 2400mm They say they are “Independently tested: to current CE EN 14782 requirements” What European fire resistance compliance category A1 A2 BCDE would this type of metal sheeting comply with? I'm considering using this sheet metal material as wall and roof cladding when constructing a garage LBH 5.2x4.3x2.8m to the ridge line. Untreated rough sawn timber stud partition frame and roof timbers will all be coated in Thermoguard exterior fire retardant fluid. (Two coats) prior to application of metal cladding to meet the 30min requirement. all materials and design must comply with the latest building regs technical handbook non domestic (Scotland) Thank you steve

Yes, during the day downlights are 3000k and LED's 6500k. I could have it set up so LED's never go past 3000K, but in some rooms it's nice to have more daylight color temperature during the day. Depending on the need for task-lighting, and if the light-level, I have just LED, just downlights of both on during the day. Most rooms have evening/night mood which is just LED, or mostly LED with downlights on min filling in shadows, but this can all be adjust based on what works best based on room and preferences.

You’re asking a modern juke box to give random answers it finds from people giving random answers. Ffs. Leave it alone and remain as a human. Ai told me to pull you over this, so don’t shoot the messenger-robot who’s eyes just went from blue to red. 👀

Thanks for the comprehensive answer! 🫡

Ultimate sacrifices for the tightness of air. 🫡👊👌🤝 Good lad.

Yes to brick and block, yes I had a prelim air test done last year, but I cocked up, left a fist sized hole into to the cavity that I’d forgotten about. The air test did highlight a number of areas for attention though, mainly with air leakage around and behind the roof straps, and a velux which needed some extra attention. My build is a dormer style build, warm roof. So well taped up, membrane down over the wall plate, soudatight onto blockwork membrane stuck into this and painted over, soudatight liberally painted above ceilings, joists foamed, ct1 sealed and taped at penetrations through blockwork. Windows all taped up to inner leaf, blockwork again painted with soudatight and then the tape painted over on the inner leaf with soudatight. Basically anywhere I had tape touching blockwork, there was soudatight before and after. Parged with British gypsum soundcoat to all block walls. Cable holes or pipe holes made with a core drill, then a waste pipe used as a sleeve, foaming glue used on pipe before shoving it in the hole, foamed on the inside and painted over with soudatight again. When cables passed through the pipe would be filled with our favourite illbruck foam then the ends would be ct1’d or ebt’d, and finally a kaflex epdm what’s’it stuck over for good luck! I’ve plasterboarded the place myself dot and dabbed 1 bag to 2 boards, picture framed the boards, stripes of adhesive at 400 and 800 all round the sockets etc. Tried my best, probably not as bob on plumb as a pro, but I’m not far off! Reckon the windows and doors will be the weakest link, round the seals. I first spoke to AB 18 months ago, but couldn’t come to terms with the cost, but as time has passed and I’ve now got to the point where I’ve got a spread coming in Jan, I needed to jump one way or the other, so sod it we’ll miss out on our Christmas trip to the sunshine and the lad’s ski trip just got cancelled by the school so that will cover the unbudgeted cost.

Pmsl