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I've done manifold before to each appliance. Good for maintenance purposes. Also meant I could run the pipework whereas I wouldn't be confident doing all the fittings.

Do you not have to worry about freezing?

It sounds like you're being quoted for the gold standard when you don't really need that. You will need a good builder though and the bad ones won't follow super specific drawing details anyway so whats the point. An architect who quoted mine allowed for a plan for electrics. Not needed in my case I'm quite comfortable marking a drawing up with what I want and where.

Another option is to discuss with a very experienced builder at this stage. It's a different way of working, through discussion rather than a linear process. To my way of thinking, the building control drawings should be working drawings by default, ie not just generic statements. The builder may also have practical methods for the process. But.... how good is the builder? How good is the Architect? We don't know.

Honeymoon period.

I've been reading this thread with interest - this seems to be one of the few fora on the internet that goes into these things in any detail. I'm not a self-builder, but am planning an extension. This is the first time I've initiated any building project, and as a complete novice I've been rather (unpleasantly) surprised at the costs of the stages before I get to 'spades in the ground'. It feels rather like HS2! I don't have any previous experience of the process to know whether I'm being, shall we say, overcharged or not, or whether there are ways that I can safely 'cut corners'. My planned extension is very small - a first-floor extension of about 2.5m x 2.5m sticking out above the front door, on stilts, doubling the size of a small single bedroom (copying an identical extension on my next-door neighbour's). A rough estimate by a local builder was that it would cost about £30,000 to build. I hoped that 'preparatory' expenses might be a few thousand. So I engaged an architect to draw up plans, and submit them for planning permission. The cost of planning permission to the council was £528 (standard I think) Fee to architect for plans - £995 + VAT. Then on to: Building Regulation Application - fee to architect £1,450 + VAT Health and Safety CDM Principal Designer role - fee to architect £950 + VAT Structural Engineer (separate company) calculations £600 + VAT Building control approved inspector (separate company) £695 + VAT That's the point that I'm up to now, something over £5,000 spent. I rather thought that by now I'd have all the detailed plans I need, and could call up a few builders, get quotes, and push ahead. But my architect has quoted for continuing the process as follows: Working drawings consisting of further junction details and setting out information. We will also produce an indicative small power/ M&E plan for pricing purposes. £1,950 +VAT Tendering to an agreed list of contractors. We will produce prelims and a pricing schedule to be sent out with the drawings and specifications. We will answer queries that arise during the tender process, analyse the costs once returned and provide a summary. £2,950 +VAT Preparing the contract based on a JCT Minor works, acting as contract administrator, attending site visits and the ongoing CDM Principal Designer role. Our cost for this are TBC as it will depend on the time scales and duration of works on site. Once we have a better feel for the length of involvement on our part we can provide you with a quote for this service. Any site visits will be charged at £120/hr +VAT. The above is based on the approved panning drawings and excludes changes in the design or scope. Interior design and landscape design are excluded. The above also excludes work associated with the building over notice. We would suggest this is submitted by either the builder or engineer [[the 'stilts' will sit over a sewer]] ...so this is another £6,000 for the first two, and "TBC" for the third. Just wondering (a) if these quotes seem reasonable, and (b) if I can shortcut any of this? For example: the "working drawings consisting of further junction details and setting out information. We will also produce an indicative small power/ M&E plan for pricing purposes". Do I need these? What are 'junction details'? I have the "Proposed floor plans" from a previous stage, which have some details (but no dimensions). If the 'small power/M&E' plan refers to electrical and plumbing stuff, this should be quite simple as it will just be moving one radiator, one mains socket, and adding a light fitting. And "Tendering to an agreed list of contractors." - is this anything more than sending out the plans to a few builders and getting quotes? £2,950 + VAT sounds a bit steep for that... Is it a skilled job, or one I could essay myself? Not quite sure what the 'contract administrator' piece is all about, nor how much it is likely to cost. . I did email the architect asking these questions, but they replied to 'phone them and talk it over. But before I do that, I'd like to be a little more confident as to what I'm talking about... Any advice gratefully received!

It's the webbed feet.

I used a pair of these for a year, until a pair of wrens nested in them two years in a row. They tucked themselves up underneath the cross-beam where the legs attach to the beam. The following year the (same?) wrens decided to use the padlock cover I welded onto our container doors. I know when I'm beaten.

Christ @SteamyTea , what size stiletto heels do Cornish folk wear down your way ? Judging by the three that are visible above the glass in the photo they'd fit Shrek's missus !

Women with stilettos on it.

Plant pots on top of the glass right? Have they been watered recently? If so, temperature difference

Even a bit of miss sized walk on glazing would not do that.

Why are you worried about it using a lot of pipe, pipe is cheap, fittings not so. 3-4 rolls of 50m will see it all done.

Been walked on? Nickel sulphide inclusion?

Was on a job where a Norrsken slider just went pop, months after it was installed. It was either the middle or outer pane iirc, but we were all the other end of the room chatting and it decided that was the day to “leave the chat”.

Toughened glass often has tiny impurities in it. These set up a stress raiser. Then they can just shatter with seemingly not reason. I had sold my car, went out in it the day before the guy was to pick it up. Driving down an empty road the windscreen shattered. Cost me 50 quid. I should have stayed in.

Came home to this . Really strange . You can see the impact/ fracture mark ( top side is fine ) . Nothing obvious around like a sledge hammer ! Yet shattered ! Blame the varying heat ?

I submitted my claim in mid-May and had the confirmation of submission, then nothing... Any ideas as to when I may see my 2nd hand Aston Martin back on the drive anyone!?

Claude is SO much nicer too me. More friendly, nice when it looks at my repo ...... But! got to be careful on a 1st date!

Not in yet!! Will let you know when in

If you've a kitchen or lots of doors in the project then make sure they know, and that might change. Or try another branch, having a detailed look at their small display and showing/ feigning enthusiasm. we had a proper stair from a kit supplier, because it needed a landing, even though temporary. Still worth it.

Never heard it called home run before. But plenty on here use a manifold system. Two ways really, each user gets it's own manifold outlet with isolation valve or slightly simpler each wet room gets it's own manifold outlet and isolation valve, the tee off in room. But don't go any larger than 15mm for either layout mentioned. I took my cold runs under the insulation within a concrete slab, nice cool water to taps all year. Hot I ran through the ceiling insulation.

I’m currently planning my hot and cold water layout. I like the idea of the ‘home run’ setup with pex runs from a central manifold. Its a lot of pipe though and I’m thinking a smart spring might be to zone the house and run zones from the manifold then tee off from the zone to the appliances. my logic for home run is that we’re doing timber frame build and I don’t want joints in inaccessible locations. The home run setup doesn’t seem so common in the uk as it does in Europe so wondering what folks think? thanks

Yup. Or, there’s another (the primary) stopcock in the house that you aren’t aware of.

How has your system performed over the hot periods?