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one benefit of a TMV on the manifold...

You can easily heat individual room with enough zone valves or radiator valves. But you get to the point that boiler cannot turn down output far enough and you get short cycling - basically burning loads of gas for little gain. That just means remote access, so nothing smart just an on off device with internet access.

Interesting but it seems like it optimises for occupancy etc, but how does that work with a bedroom for example when you’re only there at night but could be the biggest and room in most need of heat?!

An ASHP feeding UFH will only add heat slowly as flow temp rise is capped by dT between flow and return. If I set mine to batch charge - 35 Deg target point, it will take several hours of full load run to get anywhere that target. So if you set timed windows of one hour for DHW, you will have zero issue, if the 3 port diverter failed. Only cold water coming out the tap.

The biggest part is pipe laying which is contestable so you can get alternative quotes from LRQA accredited contractors as noted in the quote.

Yes I think I'm going to do this. Not going to be that much traffic here, no turning or anything like that. Most parking won't be in that area. Will give them a call this week and see if I can get exception rather than digging up the brand new drive! Thanks for the help as always

I agree that that fault mode is plausible.

There are solutions such as ... ahem ... Radbot, which don't need any particular central hub/stat and help manage the temperatures in each room automagically.

I’ll be honest I don’t really know how it works but looking for advice. Have a combo boiler, standard installation. Am interested in being able to use hive or nest to be able to isolate which rooms are heated, ie. heat one in particular at a certain point of the day. - I doubt it’s even possible but a friend mentioned hive and nest and suggested it is, but I can’t see how without getting the entire system changed to a smart system. Any advice appreciated

I think there are plenty who would be grateful to get away with prices that low....................

Spent the day working through Failure Modes and Effects Analysis (FMEA) of our ASHP system. I have hit on one which has me wondering if I have missed something. When the ASHP goes to heat the Domestic Hot Water (DHW) it provides a voltage to the changeover valve in the house that switches the ASHP flow from the Under Floor Heating (UFH) circuit to the DHW heating circuit. All well and good except that there is no feedback to the ASHP, that I can spot, that confirms the valve has actually moved and the the circulation is now running round the DHW circuit. In the situation where it fails to change over we will get the much hotter water, normally reserved for heating the DHW, flowing into our UFH which as a strict upper limit on the floor surface because of the floor coverings. There is a temperature probe feeding the DHW cylinder temperature back to the ASHP but the lag on that could be significant even supposing the ASHP has a mechanism for detecting that there is no rise in temperature of the DHW despite it apparently delivering 55oC water to the cylinder. This seems like an oversight to me, have I missed something or am I expected to provide an external solution - any thoughts or observations?

Outstanding. Outstandingly crap!

The big square washers was my understanding (and what i used). Obviously to prevent the nut being pulled into the wood, either by overtightening, or to stop it becoming detached.

Many thanks for your reply… They have provided a breakdown (water) so to speak of contestable work and none contestable but I can’t tell from the breakdown what’s what… I’ll add it to here and see what people think and if you can deceiver it a bit better (or a lot better) than I can.

We used Shiedel's Ignis Protect to deal with heat protection and airtightness

Sack trolley, clock hands or the image is a standardized symbol (IEC 60417 - 6284) used in technical documentation. No idea.

As home-owner battery storage capacity grows then a shift to time based export tariffs would seem to make sense for both supplier and domestic consumer - it would incentivise exporting domestic battery capacity back into the grid at peak consumption hours (EG 7-9am and 4-8pm exports get a premium rate) reducing demand spikes and better meet grid level needs vs the flat rates that have been available until now (IE consumer battery storage can be rewarded for participating in evening out grid demand). IIRC other geographies have stopped paying for export during daytime or sunny days.

It may be @Pocster's WC seen from above with him on it...

Looks like Sputnik 1 has landed . But it’s unlikely to be an architectural requirement for plans .

Just took some water pressures again. The mains supply is at 50 Psi, and downstream of the caleffi pressure reducing valve is at 50 Psi. Is it possible that if the plumber that cleaned it didn't reset the screw pressure adjustment properly, and the downstream side has been subject to some 6 bar back pressure, that the screw may have worked out more over time?? because immediately after that plumber had been 4 months ago my memory is that the PRV output pressure was more like 3.1/3.2bar rather than 3.5/50psi, having been about 2.8bar before he started. And in principle is there any reason the system can't be run at say 3.1bar, rather than the 2.8bar it was at before, because even this small change has a very noticeable effect on our shower flow.

The main issue in the detail provided was the DPM... With it as per the drawing, I cannot fix the Compacfoam to anything up to and whilst the door is being fitted. It's also a fair old chunk, only because the SE said it needs to be as wide as it is tall to prevent 'mushrooming'. I guess the additional insulation needs to be protected from any potential damp coming up through the B&B?

Why strip the icf, block of compac foam glued to icf, resting hard down onto beam n block. dpm lays on beam n block, folds up face of compac foam and laps onto dpc under door or use liquid dpm on door threshold, bring dpm up from the floor and tape onto liquid dpm.

We are insulating our conservatory to bring it into the heated envelope of the house and was going to use the SWIP system but our building control won't approve of it as SWIP have their BBA certification done on a double brick wall rather than just one brick. It is also rather expensive with not great insulating performance but I was prepared to take that hit but I just feel deflated by the retraction of approval from the BC. So I am abandoning the idea of having a vapour open insulation and will go with a more traditional PIR insulated wall. But to make them happy, I need to submit a detail of what we are going to do. What I want is something similar to the one below from Kingspan but I want it to be PIR manufacturer agnostic or from a manufacturer that doesn't charge £350 for two sheets of insulation. I really like how simple it looks. Has anyone done this with Celotex GA4000, how do I do that and make BC happy? Alternatively, we could do the stud system based on below Celotex system (but this one seem outdated and cannot find an updated version). But using a timber stud wall like that, how do you create the distances needed to create the cavity, just blocks on treated timber? Any help appreciated.

Only the shower head and one set of basin taps post date the new system - there is a little on the shower head but nothing that impacts flow at shower head or basin tap. The water softener is a PITA because (as you can see) I defo need a proper fully competent, experienced, and conscientiuous plumber. The Water softener is to go in the understairs cupboard but needs to go tight back against the outside wall and tight on one side to a stud wall with the understair loo behind it - otherwise it prevents any meaningful access and use of the rest of the cupboard by blocking the cupboard doorway. The original builders plumber installed the valve/bypass valve too far over, and also decided to put a standpipe positioned right behind the water softener position and bossed into the u/stairs toilet soil pipe, also necessitating a waterless trap. This arrangement is crap and doesn't achieve what we need/asked for. The water softener itself was never actually plumbed in to bring it into use and the builder and his plumber long ago terminated. Ring another Plumber - Send details/arrange visit - quote promised - quote chased - no quote and availability ever obtainable - ring another plumber: repeat on an infinite basis for 2 years, dry wife's crying eyes, and say don't take the anti-depressants. A better idea would seem to be to drill straight out through the outside wall with holes for the drain pipe and the overflow pipe. There is no outside surface drain in that position at the moment but it is close to a drain chamber, and it has been suggested to me that a (good) drainage plumber could dig out the hardcore and put one in.

I did think about installing the TMV directly above the tank outlet but decided it made everything more messy so its just at the edge of the tank. Not many but if it saves me having too much heat loss into the Utility room, where all this kit resides, I might just create a loop as you suggest. Sorry not clear what you mean, you can get my pump onto the Schrader valves of both vessels as they are placed in the picture, the view angle makes it look like they are very close together or are you referring to something else? There is no room below the large vessel for one of those service valves but I could put the valve to one side or possibly lift both vessels up but the upper one will start to interfere with the hot and cold water manifolds which will be above it. Alternatively I could mount the large vessel horizontally if that is allowed?