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@craig, may know them

No personal experience of them but found their website https://hbdsystems.co.uk/hyline-sliding-doors/ Would be surprised if they manufacture themselves, maybe rebranding something from Eastern Europe?

Do you know why? We should overcome the reason for this at the same time.

Would love to be in for Christmas 2027, but no promises! look you’ve put yourself under unnecessary pressure now . ” love to be in for Christmas within the next decade “ . Keep it lite and non committing .

22mm P5 is used in every new build, so yes, it’s perfectly fine. Listen to the LVT installers and not the builder, he’s wrong and they’re right. You need the plywood binder as the final prep before the LVT goes down. Go 22mm + 6mm, and then ask the LVT installers to level (aka feather) the self leveller over the concrete section to suit. Don’t let the builder do it.

Cheers Nick, my floorboards now are measuring 21mm so P5 would work. my builder that’s been doing the extension part suggested I use 18mm ply, biscuited at regular spacing to create the strength along the edges. This would also be the final layer of the LVT. the flooring people are, as you suggested, talking about a thin layer over the board I fit. So I’m all over the place with what to do! the P5 does seem far more affordable that 18mm ply. But is it as strong? cheers

3.5 bar…

No calling me by my real name. This is supposed to be an anonymous forum.

You should have treated yourself to a HRC loop, and enjoyed zero inconvenience and annoyance; this needs to be removed from the bean-counting of most, as it's just not expensive enough to give two hoots about afaic and adds huge value / comfort. Add in the water meter whizzing around and it's a done deal. Add in solar PV and it's pretty much a zero cost. Stop being tight-arses, people

For the obvious "kitchen / utility units will always at least be there forever" areas, yes, reduce the UFH according to basics. Most medium sized islands I will always pipe under, but more significant sized rooms don't need the 'help' so you can avoid if you choose to.

Nope.

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/58-structural-insulated-panels-sips/ Post there, and we can get the information flowing I'd disagree with your architect.

Concrete screw the last joist into the concrete floor to lock them to each other.

Thanks for the welcome. I don't have an answer to your question, so I may not! Was suggested by my architect and seems a simple system to have a structure built quickly that I can slowly finish.....

If you have room for 22mm P5 boards, then do the base layer with that. Then go over with a thin layer of plywood as the binder for the LVT to go on to. Set the plywood binder to be higher than the concrete, and then feather the concrete into that with the SLC to get you snooker table flat; you need to be spot-on for LVY as it shows everything when the light is on it. Yes to sistering to get the joists ready for the P5, and use glue and structural screws to do this link, inserting them at a slight angle to use the whole length of the screw. Use resin wood glue, plenty of it, to join the two together forever.

Hi, and welcome aboard! Please post a new thread in the SIP's / timber frame section, and then I can ask you "why SIP's and not TF, or ICF".............

Hello In the early stages of converting a former railway building into a house in the Yorkshire Dales. We will also have a SIP extension. Trying to do as much as I can myself, but I'll pay some people to do some parts. Would love to be in for Christmas 2027, but no promises!

Some might argue that although this appears to be the case in fact the real thing in the driving seat is perhaps vested interest, but once removed, so the vested interests that focus the governments interests. Long may it continue.

Hi, we are going to have LVT laid on the whole hall and kitchen section incorporating the new concrete and old suspended floor. our joists dip into this corner (floor boards are in a bad way as kitchen units have been on top for years) so I need to level up (sister some 5x2 onto the old joists sitting them proud?) you can see the run off from the concrete edge getting larger. i will then replace the T&G with 18mm (or more?) ply glued and screwed. Should I just butt upto the concrete, pass over the top so the SLC can butt upto it, or something else?? cheers

Mine was outside in a high wind load area, plus a massive drop in areas. Face mounted on timber structure.

Spot on. Which is what makes it so hard to justify up front expenditure on batteries, for example, as the market is so volatile.

Thank you Nick.

Legend.

I use the multitool to notch the plasterboard where the brackets/hangers are.

Has the BCO not indicated what would be acceptable? Maybe have a look at metal galvanised stud systems? Might be a bit more expensive, but for a small area wouldn't break the bank.