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>>> I need a design for my house There's a spreadsheet on BH somewhere which I've used, also manufacturers have their own free calculators. My BC was happy with the latter. Not rocket surgery as they say.

>>> For new-build houses, Consumer Units (CUs) should typically be installed with the operational switches between 450 mm and 1200 mm from the finished floor level Hmm, for Part M i.e. wheelchair access. Thankfully, I think only common sense apples to the other stuff. i.e. you're out of the clutches of NAPIT. >>> otherwise BS7671 - Recommended Height Optimal Height: The operating switches (main switch) should typically be located between 1350mm and 1450mm from the finished floor level. Acceptable Range: A broader, commonly accepted range for accessibility (to allow for easy operation and maintenance) is between 1m and 1.8m from the floor.

It is cheaper than a memory stick in your eyes. So get a dozen.

Once you get descaled I would be taking care of the full water and chemical dosing. I filled mine following VDI2035 spec, but later added inhibitor and biocide. The parts I used were on the whole pretty cheap, have read-through of the below thread.

I wanted to ask about equipment height (450-1200 mm) and what it applies to. In my plant room I want to install a small Ethernet patch panel and network switch but wall space is limited. This sort of equipment isn't really supposed to be accessed on a daily basis and I can't find a clear guide as to whether it has to be within the 450 to 1200 zone and if someone can point me to a document that might show what does or doesn't have to stick to this rule. The electrician is installing the CUs at a certain height but what about my custom made box with 24v DC breakers? Do either the DC breakers or the network patch panel have to be at a certain height?

One hidden benefit of having both is the ability to do things like drill pilot holes then screw into them - without the need to keep swapping a drill bit for a screwdriver bit. Even with a quick change system it can become a real pain.

Is the plan to make it airtight - if not don't bother with MVHR. You could instead install a demand based MEV or dMEV system, which responds to humidity with automatic fan speed regulation and trickle vents that open and close to room humidity. I would be doing that even if I was going airtight! Super simple, limited heat losses, cheap enough to do.

I want this . I don’t know why as my builds complete , but I want it

+1 The distance between the two pipes isn't a standard either. Different pans have slightly different gaps.

If you go wall hung, get the pan and frame on site before you set up the pipework, as the height of the flush pipe and pan connector are important.

Correct, that's the same for the external canopy.

>>> water should not pool more than 300mm . 😀 OK then suggest you need MOT 3 or similar. Not all our local aggregate suppliers will / can supply it. That should act as a big reservoir. Is there a way to get that to drain or are you on soil that will anyway? We’re on clay so we needed somewhere for the water to go after the MOT 3. p.s. might be interesting to remove the muddy layer on top (say the first 25mm) and repeat the test.

I thought there was only one SUDs requirement. You are either required to meet it or you are not. One of our many planning conditions was that the front hard landscaping had to be SUD's compliant. The crushed concrete that we had poured to support heavy traffic during the build contains sand. It does not drain water when i perform the following test...... Run a hose onto a test area for 1 to 2 minutes, water should not pool more than 300mm . We do not get visible run off towards the house when it rains however, its finding its way underground somehow, just not in the way, or time, that the test requires.

When I was stuck for space I used 6mm, foamed on and then mechanically fixed so I could get it plumb and level.

Bond it on with spray foam, then when it has gone off squirt more foam in the voids, I would not go thinner than 12mm too floppy.

Thanks all. Yes, will be using pea gravel and T1000: Wavin or similar Perforated coil drain 100 Ø mm surrounded by geotextile Terram 1000 or similar and 10mm single sized pea gravel, connected to outlets at 15.0m max centres. Baskets will be on a 300mm SHW Type 1 sub-base. And below that sub-base we need to put in drilled piles that are tied into the foundations (also on piles) via ground beams. Quite a bit for a single storey 2-bed timber frame. On top of that we have tonnes of natural stone on site, but our gabion designer is insistent we use Class 6G gabion stone only, so having to bring that in.

Hi. I have just put a new pvc door into old stone wall, i was hoping to insulate the inside revesls but there isnt enough room as id like, so i was thinking marmox board, my question is how ridgid is the board at small thickness ie 6 or 10mm? Because the stone work beneath is uneven iam wondering can i get away with not renderjng it flat behind the board? Thanks carl

You asked about replacing and then talk about repairing and covering. They are different things. If you replace your tarmac drive, then you need to do so with permeable material or meet the other criteria. If you repair your tarmac drive, it is not new or being replaced. If you cover it with something else, it is not new or being replaced. You don't have to do anything with existing drives, otherwise the whole country would have needed to rip their drives up and replace them.

Its worth getting the design earlier rather than close to when you think you need it, in order to ensure that the various parts will fit where expected. You may be able to make adjustments to other works to make the MVHR ducting fit better

I think there limits Mike. Not sure what they are. There are various connectors that you can buy to link the outlet of the pan to the soil pipe.

Have had similar and I'm pretty sure that the caps on each side slide off sideways to reveal a screw below. You'll probably need to insert a thin flat screwdriver or blade to prise the joint open as they click into place when fitting.

Thanks, I'll look them up. I'm in the process of doing a whole house renovation and I suspect I won't be ready for everything for a very good while. I might split the the basement and ground floor to get something on the go but that will still be a year in the making.

Thanks guys, I’m doing ok with bagged, not worried about it going ‘off’ really, it’s just I’ve a small amount of tiles to fit to finish off so I guess I need to master the art of a small batch mix.

I guess all this means that the height of the seat can be anything or are there limits? I have an issue in that although the pipe is low enough I cannot get the pan back far enough with the pipe running onwards to the ensuite shower so I am looking to lift it up.

I believe the gutter regs are inadequate for our changing climate. I based my design on living in oz where you have to have an outlet every 6m of gutter.