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Thanks, Nick, the DDragon

Id only be using contact matt for it's filling and sanding qualities, that'd be ok as an undercoat in the bathroom, right?

So I have had a polypipe autobalancing manifold installed. The installer never noted the flow rates on the old manifold and I don’t know the loop lengths. So am installing Salus THB23031 Auto-Balancing Underfloor Heating Actuator.

Indeed, but domestic CW are not ‘mega-money’ and are paid by the client; ergo they are transparent and cannot be garnished.

My main point is that some consultants recommend all that stuff and heavy penalties, and that I as a contractor would regard that as increased risk, and a legalistic client, and probably increase the tender sum. I've explained that to some clients, (business people), who were happy to negotiate a happy medium. Also to some consultants who admitted that they hadn't thought of that.

Agreed. And we are helping fill these potholes with free reclaimed hardcore.

My point, as above, is more about robustness and longevity of ‘insurance’, eg maintaining a bridge over the PC in the event that they fall over. For discussion and awareness of risk, where the client wishes to grab the reigns vs keep a PC on through to the finish line. PC, if still in business, of course remains responsible for defects for (iirc) the 6 years after completion. Standard defects is 12-24 months, but is aside from the core 6 year liability.

I am no ‘legal eagle’ and I wasn’t aware of these things until my (then) QS advised that I recommend these to the client for the key elements of the build; groundworks, sub & superstructure, roofing, fenestration and the like. I don’t recommend them for anything ‘smaller’ as individual contracts can be formed thereafter with the follow on trades, once the PC has completed, you agree completion and satisfaction, and part ways mid build. My role is primarily to make people aware of what options are ‘out there’, whereas otherwise they may miss an opportunity to adopt some of these mechanisms, and I invite clients to do so independently so they get their own impartial feedback. I prefer that the client(s) and I locate and fill in the potholes in the road to self build, BEFORE heading off, vs driving behind them with a well stocked mobile tire-fitting van ready for each time they fall into one.

A good point. But how many domestic subcontractors will be worth suing? Any warranty or insurance has a cost somewhere. You might find that Nudura provide a warranty of some sort though, being the main element, but I'd expect it to be limited. Ditto a big window supplier.

In a nearby worktop company's yard I saw a rack of large offcuts, broken slabs and some with holes for sinks. A high risk business. Although maybe that was years' worth.

I advise this on just a few key items, vs blanketing the entire project. 2. Protecting the Homeowner Against Subcontractor Failures If you hire a Main Contractor under a standard building contract, your legal relationship is only with them. They, in turn, hire subcontractors (e.g., roofing specialists, timber frame manufacturers). [1] The "Go-Bust" Safety Net: If a serious structural defect appears later and your main contractor has gone out of business, you cannot normally sue the subcontractor who actually did the bad work. Having a collateral warranty directly from key subcontractors gives you a direct route to sue them and claim against their Professional Indemnity (PI) Insurance. [1, 2]

That's a good point. We see it in denailing... nails bend but screws often snap. So I withdraw my 'use screws' suggestion unless there is no other option, and then use big ones and lots. That doesn't sound like a formal spec does it?

Yes, but get a scraper behind the edges to make sure none of what you’re leaving behind is loose. Your plasterer should assess this and will be using either PVA or SBR as the bonding agent. SBR is a like PVA but it doesn’t skin over. You need to plaster on to neat, wet PVA and never over PVA that has gone dry or lost its tackiness. SBR remains tacky for a long time, even when dry.

is it ok to plaster a wall with some existing plaster still intact as it is still very strong?

so they aren't brittle in shear. Nails are comparatively ductile

With ours, the stone provider did all this. When they came to template the worktops, as well as making their plywood templates, they took the sink with them, so ensure the hole they cut in the worktop fitted the sink correctly. They also fitted their preferred type of fixings to the worktop to secure the sink (not the ones supplied with it) and on fitting the worktop they secured and sealed the sink to the underside of the worktop. In our case, the hole in the worktop is a few mm smaller than the size of the sink, so there is a very small lip around the sink. I don't find this a problem, and it has the advantage that you don't see any of the sealant used unless you put your head down into the sink. I was very glad it was a supply and fit contract. When two strong men walked in carrying a long heavy granite worktop with a sink hole in the middle and the two halves joined by just the strips front and back of the sink hole, it looked very vunerable to damage at that stage, and I was glad it was them fitting it not me.

Welcome and good luck. JCT is a well designed contract that is designed to be 'fair and equitable' to both parties. Avoid making any changes to it. Changes shift risk and deserve additions to the contract sum. You shouldn't need a solicitor and I worry about what they might think they add to the process. A very experienced QS, Architect or SE yes. The contract does require admin throughout the construction process, for which you should plan. If either party wants any change then it needs recording, with time and cost consequences. If you use the clause for time damages then be aware that the contractor doesn't want to lose that money per week over-run. So what sum is fair? Some solicitors and surveyors think it's clever to put in a large penalty sum. The contractor will add some allowance to counter this, and you pay this within the process even if it finishes on time. Then they will rightly record every change and major weather event to extend the programme. As to warranties? That would have a value if selling on. I can't see the value to you. Why does your advisor say its worth considering?

Expect yes. Have certainty, no. It's easy though to show interest and ask how they deal with your concerns. You can't expect perfection just because it is expensive. The big house developers (some) sell poor quality. There are lots of rubbish builders. Nobody starts a business on rhe basis of ' I think I will set up a stone worktop business. It's expensive, skilled and high risk. They will have been making gravestones and tiles first , as an example. Then the fashion for worktops comes along and they segue into that, take on staff and expand. If they are passionate they won't mind the questions.

Plans and reality aren't the same, have sensible budgets, otherwise it will be a money pit.

Certainly would do that, pay them staged payments based on work completed and approved. Pre paying for to be done is not the way to go. There may be some material costs to pay up front, and how that is handled would be worked out so zero risk to you. If contractors are expecting full up front cost walk away quickly.

Those cut outs are going to have to be spot on. A bit of top sink ledge showing here, and a tiny bit of overhang there, will drive you nuts. There will be a radius on the top edge of the sink, so that will need filling with something. @Nickfromwales makes a good point that Silicon will last a good few years, but CT1 around the edge joint between the flat bottom of stone, and filling that small curve at the top of the sink would do a good job. I expect that the worktop fitting company will just use clear Silicon. My tip would be to ensure that that small radius is not filled after, but that whatever sealant is used it is put around the top, flat ledge of each sink before the tops are fitted. That way it splurges out into the sink area, and is cleaned off by the installation team.

Hi all, looking for some advice please. We are soon to be embarking on demolishing and rebuilding our house. Following consultancy with a member of this community we have chosen to build in Nudura ICF. 5-bed house detached house approx 250m2 just outside Bristol. Plans and technical drawings undertaken by professional architect. The PC for the majority of the project will be undertaking demolition, groundwork and structural landscaping, drainage, superstructure and structural roofing. Subcontractors for fenestration and roof coverings. This will all be undertaken on a JCT contract which we have drawn up together (we will get this assessed by a solicitor prior to embarking). From the point at which the scaffolding can come down, my wife and I will take over as PCs for the remaining work as we perceive that we can manage this (understanding the inherent risks). We have been advised to investigate collateral warranties for our work, on the basis that we will be handing over £several-hundred-thousands to contractors. I don't really understand if this is necessary, as the JCT contract covers everything described above. From the point at which we take over as PC, we will be able to manage individual contracts with the contractors. We are in the fortunate position to not need a mortgage, and we plan to live here "forever" (currently in our mid-40s), so not constrained in this regard. My [extremely limited] understanding is that collateral warranties are required for elements where there is no direct contract between ourselves and the contractor. Can anyone offer any guidance, please, as to whether or not this is needed? Hopefully I have divulged enough detail of the project, but will provide more as necessary. I appreciate I am a "noob" but we have had extensive guidance from a very experienced member of this community so it's not quite as crazy as it might sound! Many thanks

I didn't know that. Do you know why?

When I fitted our undermounted sinks, I used G clips to fix them. http://www.gclip.co.uk/Home.html All that should have been taken care of when it was templated. If there is to be an upstand then minor gaps are covered.

I have not asked about this. I think they just said the sink would be fixed using a sealant/adhesive. I am confused as given the weight of the quartz and the use of silicon or CT1, and the timber edge supports shown underneath shown in the photos, will that not be sufficient ? These people will be fitting 100's of worktops every year, is it too much to just expect they know what they are doing ? Especially given I am spending a large sum on the job. I can imagine only 1 in 100 customers would actually ask, specify (or perhaps pay extra for) grinding, tabs, and epoxy ? I am scratching my head a little about how to double check their laser device measurements. If a corner between the front edge of the worktop and the side wall is not a perfect right angle would you expect them to be cutting this slightly out of square to fit ? This is unclear from their drawings, where all the cuts look visually as though they are 90deg and have no specified angle shown. I can appreciate an angle greater than 90deg would not be possible because of the need to be able to slide the worktop in, but presumably an angle less than 90 would be easily done ?