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They are not offering me that on E7.

We have no voids in xr35 , will just put it in internal 100mm eps. Hopefully don’t need any conduit.

That's a good point about future replacements. I'll also keep the switching arrangement in mind so the under-cabinet lights work conveniently with the rest of the kitchen lighting.

Well known organisation for pro renewables and accurate reporting. Much of the problem is in the terminology. Grants, Guarantees, Subsidies, Tax Rebates, Curtailment Payments. But if £26bn is correct, that is about £400/person in the UK, which seems quite high to me at, or about 17p/kWh (for the 152 MWh RE last year).

Thanks, that's really useful. The shadow along the front edge is exactly the sort of detail that's easy to overlook during planning. Positioning the profile a little further back sounds worth testing before fixing everything in place.

Thanks for sharing your installation. Routing the profile into the cabinet panel gives a neat finish, and using the end filler to conceal the cable is a practical solution. It's useful to see how different people handle the routing and driver location.

That’s a really interesting setup, especially using addressable strips alongside separate CCT lighting. I’ve purchased LED strip lights from ATOM LED, so it’s interesting to see how people approach the different control options and recessed aluminium profiles. Planning the driver locations and cable routes before the kitchen is finished definitely seems worthwhile.

I've been busy chopping up the oak posts and beam and have parts ready to cut to length and assemble. Making it 150mm timber is well over twice the effort of something smaller like 100mm. It weighs a over twice as much, so becomes a two person shift and you can't make straight forward cuts using a mitre saw due to maximum cut capacity (120mm in my case). If I was quoting a job like this I would easily double it moving from 100mm to 150mm. An interesting challenge is dealing with even very small bows in the posts. Using geometry and assuming a constant curvature of bow, you can work out that the deviation in the top of the post is eight times the amount of bow [1]. That's pretty significant since over a distance of 2.3m a 5mm bow isn't unlikely, but would shift the top of the post by 40mm. To correct that, you need to remove a wedge from the bottom of the post as otherwise it won't sit flat on the staddle stone. The wider the post, the higher that wedge ends up being. The height of the wedge ends up being four times the bow then scaled width divided by length, so 4 * h * (w / L) [where w post width, L is the post length and h is the bow amount]. For a 5mm bow, that makes for a wedge height of 1.3mm, which if not made would be noticeable. It's only 0.5 degrees from being square, so it highlights how sensitive this all is. That above assumes that you have got your staddle stones perfectly level. Levels are typically accurate to 0.5mm/1m, but that is a based on a perfectly centred bubble. If the bubble is touching the line, you can be out by a fair amount, the exact amount depends on temperature. Based on my level at about 20C, the inner most lines are 10mm/1m (1%, checked by moving a 6mm packer from one end to the other of a 600mm level). I wanted to get my staddle stones more level, but was hampered by the rods underneath (learning) and so most are better that 5mm/1m but one is bubble just touching the line, so 10mm/1m. With the post width of 150mm, that makes for a wedge of 1.5mm. I had hoped to cut the posts square and then fit, but these two about equally sized effects means that I need to test fit, work out what wedge I need to cut and then cut slightly off square. Not a big deal if they weighed less than 48kg. Also, it's fraught with possible errors. I would love it if there was a tool that allowed me to clamp my post held off the top of the stone and then route/plane the bottom of the post guided by the surface of the stone. [1] bow or sagitta of h and chord length L give a radius of curvature r = (h/2) + (L^2 / 8h) --> r ~ (L^2 / 8h) since L >> h angle subtended by the arc of the post theta = L/r --> deviation at top of post, x = L * theta = L^2 / r = 8*h L2 = (r+w)*theta , dL = L2 - L1 = w*theta , wedge height, y = dL / 2 = 4*w*h / L

UK renewable energy subsidies cost approximately £25.8 billion per year according to research by the Renewable Energy Foundation https://ref.org.uk/blog

Yer man from Brizzl 'll be along sometime soon 😑

I just changed to Octopus Agile export was on fixed before and the income so far is far greater, generally exporting battery at breakfast and tea time and get 20p+ per kWh. Sorry no electric vehicles here, so not sure about import

Windfarms, solar panels etc aren't built by government subsidies. They get a guaranteed price per Mwh for providing a certain capacity. Originally that was higher than a new gas plant would get. So sort of a subsidy But now the price per Mwh for a wine farm is lower than that for a gas plant. So investors pile money into wind and solar

I keep seeing ads for EDF advertising 7 hours off peak eleccy for 6.66p/unit on an EV tariff. Anyone know if that rate is a new deal or been around for a bit?? Octopus have just hiked our 5 hour off peak Go rate to 9.4p/unit and EDF offer a penny a unit more for export so a move seems an obvious thing to do?

Won't cheaper prices mean more consumption requiring more levies/taxes to build more wind turbines, solar farms, nuclear plants, battery banks, CCGT+CCS etc??

Worth getting one fitted AliG. The whole house flow based units that learn your normal usage and shut the water off automatically are the most effective option in my experience, and they keep working while the house is lived in, which the stopcock approach can't do. Sensor pucks are handy under sinks but for a burst flexi the water usually goes everywhere except where the puck is. Also change braided flexi hoses every five years or so, they are the most common cause of the big flood jobs I have been called to.

In addition to dMEVs, there are also dMVHR units that recover a useful proportion of the outgoing warmth - although, of course, they cost more. If you've not come across that option, do a search and you'll find several discussions.

I tried a couple, first was noisy not easily controlled. The second a Greenwood CV2 - silent at our setting (minimum flow), it boosts based on rising humidity automatically. Really easy to setup. Newer version is CV3.

Thank you - OK, that makes sense. When I run the dMEV I don't want the air being drawn from window gaps right next to it of from underneath the floorboards. Further info on types of fans would be greatly appreciated (is there another thread on this forum?).

Great shout with FB Marketplace, I used that to get timber and lawn for a bargain when I was doing the refurb! I actually sold the remaining timber for more than I paid for it, so it basically cost me nothing fort he stud wall timber! Now you've got me interested! I thought I had to use a FENSA registered installer to comply with building regs, but the more I think about it, you're right! I'll just need to inform the council that Im having the windows replaced right? The only difficulty I foresee is handling the large windows/doors myself as I dont really have anyone who can just pop over and help. But please let me know how your experience of installing the windows went. Im terrified that I'll install the windows and doors, only to wake up next morning and see water leaking in after a heavy rain. LOVE this breakdown and it makes so much sense! Thanks so much for your time writing this

Green plasterboard? Waterproof tile adhesive and tiles. Low profile shower tray?

You are basically making things less drafty to eliminate uncontrolled ventilation, by making things airtight. So on a windy day the heat isn't stripped from the house. Ventilation of any variation is then required to provide a fresh environment and strip away humidity. All good heating system relies on a balanced heating system, whether you need thermostats is another question and really nothing to do with a ventilation strategy. All ventilation leads to heat loss including MVHR, but the amount of heat lost with MVHR is lower in theory. Controlled on demand ventilation doesn't need to loose much more heat than MVHR. MVHR is generally steady state ventilation it runs a continuous rate almost always. The controlled on demand ventilation only ventilates the areas that need ventilation, not the whole house. If your out all day it drops back to a minimum setting so reduced heat loss. Not all dMEV fans are equal so but with care

Hi All, I've been reading up on all the ventilation materials on this wonderful forum, and I'm scratching my head about dMEV. I understand the general concept: slow flow of air through the house is good. But are we, essentially, spending a lot of time & money to draft-proof the house to then just spend more time & money so that drafts happen in higher humidity rooms by installing a dMEV+humidity controlled vents? I also don't get how this is not going to lead to heat loss: we're drawing cold outside air into the house? Esp in winter. Am I right to think successful dMEV relies on well-balanced heating (ideally, each room on demand, controlled by thermostat)? Only then we get the well-functioning system of: high humidity -> open vent -> draw in cold air -> add on-demand heating -> dry warm room? Thank you.

I’m guessing this is a bit of a rabbit hole but I’m looking at options for bathroom. Currently thinking of a former shower tray with waterproof boards on the walls and possibly floor then tiling over. I’m looking at jakoboard and kerdi and leaning towards kerdi but interested in anyone’s experience and thoughts? Thanks

I have my worktop lights in an aluminium profile with diffuser routed in the underside of my cabinet panel. The router wasn't happy with the chipboard but it got there. I ran the cable down the dead space that is covered by the filler at the end of the run, goes up over into the ceiling then down to the switch, the switch in turn is connected to the driver which I've got behind the kitchen plinth sat on some chipboard. Working so far!

PS Am having kitchen worktops routed on the underside front edge for LED strips which will light up the finger pull on the handleless drawers/cupboards. Takes some working out. Just managed to sort a way to run 3 wires down alongside the strip where access to the very end of the alu profile isn't possible. Needs to be carefully planned and suitable alu profiles sourced and tested out.