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Thank you Bonnie, I was told by my local MP’s office who spoke to the planning that if a bond is paid you can use your own contractor as long as it’s done to specification kind regards, kevan.

Very, no gas, no main drainage, overhead lines, no streetlights, no pavements, single track roads with passing places etc. The phone lines are copper to the exchange a couple of miles away. Openreach have "no plans" to put full fibre down here as yet.

Hi all Does anyone have any recommendations for a structural engineer for a timber frame new build project? The scope of the work would be to design the foundation based on the site conditions and line/point loads, and determine if any retaining structures are needed as the site is on a slight incline. Ideally they could do the civils too? Ideally a firm that is pragmatic and cost-effective, rather than specialising in billionaire basements, if that makes sense This is in North London (Barnet). Would be super helpful if anyone has suggestions, or advice for how to choose a firm for this.

That BT connection looks like shit in 2025. Are you very in the sticks? (no VDSL/FTTC?)

Warranty providers now want to see compliance with ventilation for solar. For example NHBC guidance changed last year to treat in roof solar as impermeable. If you do want to full fill below the membrane you'd need to batten above for ventilation. Any single manufacturer could certify their system doesn't need ventilation (not sure any do though) but I don't think you'll get that assurance for warranty fitting trays and separate panels.

Ours are aluminium. We have a few of the crittals left, because they weren't rusting and falling apart... yet, so can compare. Nobody sensible would insist on steel. If you ask your local glazing suppliers, or go straight to the manufacturers they may have info on approved replacements in the area. They also may have publicity to help you. I'd apply with a detailed proposal... this now (emphasise the problems.)... this proposed. Preferably showing a similar construction.

I am at work. It's shit, and this is the staff login.

I think this may be my issue, I knew not to offer tighten, so maybe didn't do it enough. I only have normal spanners so don't think I could have overtightened as wasn't forcing anything... I'll open one up and look at the pipe, hopefully it doesn't look like a fat finger on a ring! Been advised to add some paste to the olives before tightening to help with the leaks.

Sounds like a lot of progress to me. Thankfully the weather is heading in the right direction now.

Why. just build a wider wall and put the insulation in that, your Ewi sounds a nightmare to install and detail. just sounds all over complicated and not needed.

Are you seeing any issues yourself?

Don't overtighten fitting with olives.

That really doesn't mean it complies. If you structural engineer says nails, that's what your structural design certificate covers. If you want hooks, make sure the structural engineer is happy. Pretty much don't comply with any of that. Full fill Icynene, open cell foam. Proctor Roofshield, so a very open membrane. Full double taped vapour control membrane and service cavity inside house. GSE trays have plenty of air channels to allow ventilation. When generating plenty of thermosyphon driven ventilation also.

So, filled with water. Lots of leaks.... Which was unexpected. Going round tightening everything again.

Has anyone built a wall build up like this? Any thoughts? Walls – U-value 0.12 W/m²K Internal Finish: 12.5 mm Plasterboard Service Cavity: 50 mm battened void (filled with extra mineral wool?) Airtight & VCL Layer: Pro Clima Intello with joints taped using Pro Clima Tescon Vana. Structural Frame: 140 mm timber studs. Insulation: 140 mm full-fill mineral wool cavity insulation (e.g., Knauf RS45 or Rockwool RWA45). External Sheathing: 9 mm OSB3. Breather Membrane (Frame): Protect TF200. EWI: 160 mm high-density mineral wool (e.g., Rockwool Frontrock or density-equivalent RWA45 slabs). Weather Seal: High-performance W1-rated breather membrane (e.g., Tyvek Housewrap) installed over EWI. Cavity Fixings: Thermally broken structural insulation screws (e.g., HECO Topix-Plus Therm) installed at a 60–67° angle. Screws must achieve a minimum 50 mm embedment into structural timber studs. Ventilation: Horizontal structural battens (min. 38x89 mm) + vertical counter-battens Fire Safety: Euroclass A1 non-combustible cavity barriers. External Finish: Cedral Click vertical cladding + starter/top profiles + vermin mesh.

Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum and are looking for advice on an internal wall insulation (IWI) project for a 1930s semi-detached chalet. It has original solid brick walls (no cavity), but a complex mix of exterior claddings on our freezing North-facing elevation. The Setup (North-Facing): Ground Floor (Lounge): The exterior has an exposed original brick plinth at the bottom, and cement pebbledash on the upper half. Inside, there is a large original-style bay window with integrated shutter blinds. First Floor Right (Master Bedroom): The exterior here is entirely covered in cement pebbledash. Also has a large bay window. First Floor Left (Ensuite): This has a unique diagonal split exterior—the top half is vertical tile hanging, and the bottom half is cement pebbledash. Inside, we currently have severe black mould in the shower area on this external wall. My Dilemma: My builder has recommended Kingspan K118 (PIR) drylining for its high U-value and thin profile. However, I’m highly concerned about trapping moisture behind a non-breathable foil-backed board, especially where the exterior is wrapped in waterproof cement pebbledash. I'd love your thoughts on these three specific issues: 1. Breathability vs. PIR: Given the cement pebbledash, would a vapour-permeable system (Wood Fibre + Lime Plaster) be definitively safer for the ground floor Lounge and the Master Bedroom to prevent interstitial condensation? 2. The Bay Window "Shutter Trap": I have integrated shutter blinds in the bays. If I use a breathable wood fibre system (typically 60mm+), the shutters will hit the new thicker walls and won't fold back. Has anyone safely used a thinner PIR board here by applying a breathable hydrophobic cream (like Stormdry/ProPerla) to the exterior pebbledash? Or is Aerogel the only safe thin option? 3. The Mixed Ensuite Wall (Jackoboard): My builder suggested stripping the mouldy ensuite wall back to brick and using Jackoboard (XPS) to create a waterproof, insulated "warm box" for the shower. Since the exterior of this specific wall is half breathable (tile hanging) and half non-breathable (pebbledash), is sealing the inside with vapour-impermeable XPS safe for the brickwork across both of those exterior finishes? Any advice would be hugely appreciated! Thanks so much!!

We have the original BT line, still copper which wasn't great for my lad's gaming etc. As soon as he got a job he paid for Starlink, the £75 a month option I think it is. Speed wise, though x10 better than BT it doesn't seem that great to me as in for the money. The dish is set up correctly. It may be because we are at the bottom of a steep valley so have line of sight to fewer satellites? BT: Starlink:

Normally the works must be done by an approved contractor, whoever is doing it should have a suitable drawing.

Maybe I should have simply accepted a slightly worse floor u-value and gone all polystyrene, but I didn’t find out just how awful PIR is till it was on site and I had started fitting it. I like the sandwiched DPM, not sure how that would work with poured insulation.

Kingspan salesman strikes again.........

I think the more of the sky you can see the better. However I've seen videos of the lads in Ukraine with one poking out through a gap in the trees covered in a camo net so I think it's not overly sensitive.

@JohnMo Thanks also. I think they must comply as they are on a few roofs up here.

@Gus Potter Thanks for taking the time to do put your thoughts down. I will raise these with the architect. Point also taken re slate hooks. Lots to learn!

Ok that works if you have an eaves and ventilated ridge with a 50mm air gap. Slate hooks are a nightmare, and dangerous for folk going onto the roof to maintain it. As part of HSE stuff you design to make sure, say in roofs, you don't have exposed sharp nail heads, slate hooks are nasty and are a puncture / trip hazzard. Why not just do the job properly? Slate hook are more associated with remedial works.

I need to apply for a road opening permit to install a storm drain below the single track public road, the roads department are wanting a cross section drawing of installing the pipe, would anyone have an approved drawing for installation of 225mm twin wall HDPE pipe to be buried 1.4mtrs below road level, any drawings received would be very much appreciated! Kind regards, Kevan.