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https://www.toolstation.com/universal-top-fix-seat-bung-kit/p46310

Looking for some guidance as I'm not sure how best to set-out steel posts (to be set in concrete) to ensure that the 150x150 top plate of each of the 16 No. box section posts will match perfectly with the L-shaped designed decking sub-frame to be supported and bolted through onto the top plates below. A friend has given me a loan of his Dewalt Crossline Laser DW088 to assist with the setting-out procedure, but I'm not confident that this will be sufficient, or the correct tool to use, to achieve the critical setting-out of the posts required. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA

Most of these are quick release as above. If you can identify the size of nut / thread then usually these are stainless steel (so a magnet won’t work) so don’t replace with mild steel.

From that diagram my guess is there's a gasket that slots vertically down each side - any chance you threw it away when unpacking? I can't believe you're expected to plaster into that. Hopefully Eclisse can point you in the right direction!

I have a mate, a slightly special, albeit fully qualified and insured tree man. He's itching to sort all my trees out which is happily let him do but for the cost even at mate's rates. My beech is immense!

Regardless of their merits it's also worth considering 1/ how mortgageable they are, as they may count as non standard construction (affects both you and any future buyer) and 2/ how easily you can find experienced contractors, or will your builders learn on the job at your expense and maybe have issues

Any ideas on how the closing recess on my Eclisse Syntesis Architrave less pocket door is supposed to be finished ? The diagram in the instructions appears to have some kind of corner buffer in it - but absolutely nothing to say what or how this is installed in my instructions. And the recess is just a textured metal finish - is the inside supposed to be plastered too ? How would it work if you wanted to install a lock in the door with one of those hooks that drop down ? See Pics.

I have an EV9 and looked into this when I got it. At the time, the first announced charger was the Quasar 2 and it is still not available. It is listed at £4000 plus fitting. At that price you'd be as well getting a battery. The Sigenergy one appears to be available at a much more reasonable £2000 and sounds like a good piece of kit. But again, a 10-15kWh battery can be had for not much more. Most car batteries are good for 1-2000 cycles. So 2-400,000 miles. Usually more than the useful life of a car. If you charged and discharged 10kWh a day, then you are using 40-50 cycles a year depending on the size of your battery. In practical terms this is unlikely to impact the useful life of the car. But if you started to do say 20kWh a day every day, if you had an ASHP for example, then I would be worried about the life of the battery. You'd be using 10% of the car's battery life per year for battery storage. Of course you could keep a car for three years doing this and then sell it and no one would ever know. A car with LFP cells would be better for this as they have around 5000 cycle life. If the V2G/H happens using AC I would be worried that the AC charger in the car would go. This is a lot more likely than the battery itself going. The Sigenergy unit appears to be able to do DC charging which would be a big positive, it would also be a lot more efficient.

I think the proximity of the substation means it's way too risky to do it yourself. I have a local company that comes all the time to do stuff like this. It's £50 per hour per man plus VAT. Your half day estimate seems about right. Getting rid of the wood can be a pain unless someone wants it for firewood.

My mum did this and I found this was what was needed. This is for a Porcelanosa wall hung toilet. I would think it works for others, but you can probably look up a different make. https://www.bathroomspareparts.co.uk/porcelanosa-large-zip-toggles-100125027n499816968-179334-p.asp I assume that you still have the bolt otherwise you need this. https://www.bathroomspareparts.co.uk/porcelanosa-mood-toilet-seat-fixing-kit-100125026n499816970-179330-p.asp?utm_source=google&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=&utm_term=&device=c&utm_prodid=ebaths2179330&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22543615678&gbraid=0AAAAADreFuGWtF-V_WS2BsGksAOavlQv6&gclid=Cj0KCQjws83OBhD4ARIsACblj1-zxAkTQbL6K8xWSnCoftyZHxQFRWot1YcoyoW_WkbDYtAjwZRKctQaAmNBEALw_wcB For future reference, you probably can just remove the seat by tilting it up at a 75 degree angle then pulling it straight up, don't unscrew anything like my mum!

Post a picture of the other nut. It will be possible to buy another one (probably sold as a pair)

Will do once we’ve got the membrane on.

Of course, you or your electrician can almost certainly swap the cables in any off-the-shelf lights for longer/funkier ones.

Magnet maybe.

I tried removing my toilet seat to clean it and I dropped the nut inside the hole. It’s one of these close to the wall toilet. What are my options do I need to remove toilet to fix the seat

In terms of insulation they're certainly viable - there are 42 Passive House buildings using Porotherm in the PassiveHaus database, 13 of them certified. The PH database includes 1,784 new-build masonry buildings in total and - since cavity walls are unknown in most of Europe and there are only 83 UK buildings in the database - the vast majority will be solid wall construction + insulation of various types; you can view a summary of what was used.

Why MEV instead of dMEV if venting via roof. But that's another topic. Hybrid is fine as long as all the details are worked out and followed. Warm roof also fine as long as all details are worked out etc. Doesn't make either easy to do well You can do that, but you still need to fill between rafters at the wall to roof insulation gap and stop air movement and give continuous insulation layer.

We have nearly finished our office/store which we will live in whilst building the house. Around 24 sq. m. of space will be plenty for 12 months or so of living. Will save us 12k of rent plus other bills. we also have 2 containers on site, one for tools etc, the other will be for storage of furniture, clothing etc. It has also been a great way of checking out build process on main house as we will be using the same materials.

the cables here are a good 2 m.

This is a standard procedure in Australia build the steel framed garage first, fit a shower and toilet, divide off a bedroom area. move in say nothing and save £12,000 a year in rent. far more usable space than a skinny caravan. I lived in a 6x7 m cabin for 2 years with the wife and 2 dogs. The only thing we needed was more storage space, a shipping container would soon sort that out.

Interesting. I’ve seen them used in a few projects in UK, one is an award winner. The block type would be the ones with mineral wool infilled. They give good u-values off the pallet so to speak albeit you need a wall that’s like 400mm thick. No warranty here. I’ve read the opposite. Airtightness is easier as blocks are continuous with thin profile joints and have an ecoparge coat on them. As for expense, I’m thinking this could be counteracted with no need for wall ties, lots of mortar, no insulation boards to cut shimmy fill, and speed or build. Hoping the 3 members tagged can chime in, can see from searches they’ve attempted this method.

Theres no EWI. Anticipating a concrete block cavity wall with cavity fully filled 100-150-100mm. So is it possible to avoid the filling between rafters and just place boards above them?

Maybe they thought the same as I would, like “maybe I’ll say feck all and hide in there out of sight / mind”…. 🤐

A back-elbow sent my £400 Bosch down a flight of metal stairs. That provoked the purchase of my Milwaukee unit. Went from red to green line, green being MUCH better imho. I said the word (expletive deleted) a few times as I watched the Bosch going down the stairs and bouncing off a concrete floor like someone playing pinball….