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You know what. If someone said that title too me I'd be well happy.

“Programming “ 2026 style

@Spinny, thank you. Why did I not think of doing such a valuable thing and with the camera close at hand! Another thing I did not think of doing is actually shaking the triangular added on "wings" at the lowest points of the two fascia boards! That was done last night by the professional carpenter who came to look at the work. He found that those triangles could easily be moved back and forth! Why? Because they've been stuck on with something like the rubber sealant which was used elsewhere! UNBELIEVABLE. It's as if the philosophy of the two workers is: build something that LOOKS LIKE what the customer wants, then squeeze payment out of them as quickly as possible.

Tell them you can set the test up and they can come and witness it. I would not want to spend £400 just because someone is being a numpty. Part of what you pay for is inspections.

Our Buildzone warranty BC person asked for drain test. We did one, videoed it, levels were fine. However, they won't accept our test and want one carried out by an independent 3rd party who has PI insurance. Seems this is going to cost us in excess of £400. We are self builders for a reason, but are continually scuppered by red tape!

There is rebar yes. I don't doubt all that is necessary for this concept where the 2m section of retaining wall beyond the edge of the basment is structurally integrated, and it may be the best solution, but it can also be done by freestanding sheet piles for example, so I just want to get a feel for any other options. For example I could have a separate retaining wall for that 2m wide section using something like this:

This is the way in my opinion. I've been using the stuff a bit recently and did just that. Once it's partly gone off, it'll drop out of the bucket nicely. You're right though, it goes off VERY fast in this weather.

I'm guided by a low datum too. My bathroom window is floor-to-ceiling and with a 50mm frame height, so my total is 40-45mm in reality to include a structural layer. Damn I wish I hadn't got rid of the frame packer under it, but in all fairness, 45mm does work well with adjoining rooms anyway as I'm going from Microcement in the bathroom to thick carpet in the bedroom.

I recommend Soudal Fix All, I've used it on EPS with no issues. Sticks EPS to other surfaces really well. An easily available one if you don't want to think too much about it. https://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-fix-all-high-tack-hybrid-polymer-adhesive-white-290ml/64585?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=895557794&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPxQZcwfDg7XuWT6M7XU5qJW_&gclid=CjwKCAjw8uTQBhAdEiwAVvtJytd5T8metMhSfttfGiRHNorqe-zWY_O6Zos9P_4E07LqWha0FGRpwRoCSywQAvD_BwE Other options are Illbruck SP350.. https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/742.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17178602520&gbraid=0AAAAADt-Kn0ph4eAt3inbtCk9Tjt8IA77&gclid=CjwKCAjw8uTQBhAdEiwAVvtJyrHurwMiX1eVezExj4zWyNFuYLzJ_LObPlYyH2qK77MUmOXTMa0tLBoCF0gQAvD_BwE But it was quite thick when I used it earlier in the year, so I'd suggest warming the tubes first.... Or this stuff if you can weigh it down whilst it cures as it is low expansion, but has been good at stick EPS to concrete etc. https://ewistore.co.uk/shop/external-wall-insulation/eps-adhesive-ewi-240-750ml/

Now have a sample of what we are using. It's available with a thin eps underlay which we will not have. We will instead lay an acoustic dampening sheet. So we are left with an 18mm tray. The pipes clip into that and then we have a screed designed to be 30mm thick. We need that because there is a balcony sliding door setting a low datum. With what should we glue the Acoustic foam down? I'd rather find a tube mastic than tape, for ease. Then ditto the plastic grid I had been thinking screws into the chipboard floor...it feels solid and certain. But perhaps first a glue for speed and overall adhesion. Any advice on good tube adhesive that doesn't melt plastic?

If you are mixing in a gorilla tub, let it go off a bit, then empty the bucket and smash the stuff into smaller bits.

Like my foundation slab, that on three sides has retaining walls, your slab is part of the strength of the retaining wall (although not shown i suspect there is rebar and mesh that connects around the bottom corner of the new wall and into the slab). So, the slab has to be there AFAI can see. Your final finish will need to have a gradient on it anyway and you can make that gradient be away from the door opening. Render should not go all the way to the ground to avoid splash back

This applies equally to larger quantities eg a delivery of concrete or screed. That might be 1/2m3. When that is watered into a slurry then it spreads and can be a nuisance. If there is the space then when it is hardened/dried it can be used as hardcore. @Great_scot_selfbuild it's a good question. Your stuff is in relatively small quantities so is controllable. So your heap can gradually build up. Then use or dispose.

There's some useful information on one of their other pages about that & the need for documentary evidence here : https://www.epcworks.co.uk/improve-your-epc/documentary-evidence/

Well spotted. It's an interesting case study, contains useful pointers and shows that there are some conscientious assessors out there (and why most wouldn't want the hassle). It seems though that they overrode the default values in rdSAP, rather than applying full SAP. Probably.

Galvanising is usually only requisite when bridging the cavity or the toe of the metal is exposed to atmosphere, like a Catnic lintel is. OTT if it’s an internal beam on the inner leaf. Red oxide is plenty, so slap a load on with a 4” fluffy roller if it’ll make you sleep better 😉.

Wash it into a very weak solution with a lot of fresh water, and then dump it onto waste area (side of footings / unfinished hard standing etc) and it'll just dry out and turn to dust.

Here's an in-progress Posi design for my Car Port roof. What I'm trying to achieve is a minimal edge detail, with masonry running up to the roofline, just with an Aluminium trim as a termination. What is the normal way to run the timber construction to the edge at the ridge and verge? So far the joists have been designed to land on a wall-plate on the inner leaf and the Posi tails have been left long enough to be trimmed inside the outer leaf, but I guess there will need to be some sort of rim-edge timber detail to support the deck and allow the edge trim to be fixed. At the verge, I am minded to have the last Posi swapped out for a 253mm Glulam, where a ladder frame can be built, but again I'm unsure how to detail this at the edge to achieve the minimal look I'm after. This is how the house is detailed, I'm after a similar effect with the Car Port, but here it's masonry not ICF! Obviously this is an uninsulated roof. Does anyone have any pics/details they can share to help me to move forwards with this? I greatly appreciate any/all help.

One of those simple /mundane questions that doesn’t normally generate a post… I’m mixing up cementitious grout in manageable batches as it has a short working time. When I’m left with a small-ish amount starting to congeal in the tub, where are you disposing of it/cleaning out the tub before starting the next batch?

I have since discovered that it IS possible to have a 10 year old house tested to SAP standard, rather than rdSAP provided that all the relevant information is available. See link. EPC Case Study 6 - Passivhaus RDSAP EPC - 105A

That is exactly what my issue with the system is. My EPC assessor refused to look at any of the large amount of documents that I had laid out for him, icluding a three page specification report.. He specifically said that the rdSAP did not allow for him to look at documents, only assess the house on what he could see. And a SAP as I understand it, can only be issued once, when the house is being built. Hence my comment about the system being rubbish.

I have a walkout basement as the house is built into a slope. I need to retain the earth between one side of the basement and an existing retaining wall on the boundary, approx 2.5m height of earth. My structural engineer has come up with a design which extends the basement slab and one of the basement retaining walls to the boundary. It just doesn't look quite right to me. My concerns are mainly: rain water splash back from the extended slab, particularly as there is a door threshold and external insulation/render with no ventilation cavity. thermal bridging (not too concerned as just one corner) This is the plan view: This is the section view I don't want to just say "I don't like it" because maybe i'm wrong and this looks fine to others. I will also get the view of the builder. I'm just wondering what the general thoughts are as to whether it is a detail that will cause issues in the longer term and whether there are any ideas for improvement that I could take back to my SE? For example, the cowboy developer next door is retaining the same earth with sheet piles bashed in using a digger bucket. Not an approach I will take but does show that there may be other approaches.

Then all will be well - except! You need to think about how the cables come through the airtight layer as you will need to make that interface airtight as well. I used some squares of EPDM with hole punched through smaller than the cable then pushed the cable through and sealed the EPDM to the airtight membrane once it was installed - it does mean pushing the cable through the airtight membrane so you need the end free to do it.

Respectfully….. I think we need to focus on when the Buildhub massive can attend for house-warming drinks. I’ll man the BBQ, so one less thing for you to worry about I’m all about giving.

C@@@s