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Send me a PM if you’re stuck. It really doesn't need to be this hard .

It’ll be running such low temps that it won’t matter imho. Balancing on the manifold is fine to get flow rates fettled in, and after that it should be plenty good enough. I’ve never done loops by room, and I only make overall adjustments for changes like this (200mm cc or 150mm cc or 100mm cc) for different types of heat sources. The only time I change loops per room (or space) is for adding tighter loops in bathrooms, or for hallways where the area is open to the 1st floor etc and needs a little more ‘oomph’.

Why not use a 600mm riser before it?

Awesome! Anyone up for productively helping out with this for some beer tokens?! 🤣🍺 This guy is primarily a screeder by the way (and one that came highly recommended by someone I really trust), so I'm not holding it against him too much. I also think he'll be a good supplier for the kit, perhaps just not so much the design!

Not sure what you mean @Selfbuildsarah. What does “fine silicone finish” mean? It depends on the intended detail around the cladding/render and windows as to how this is finished. We also have Norrsken windows and doors, but decided against them doing the “final” silicone. I did an additional level of sealing around all windows and doors, on top of the basic sealing that Norrsken do during install. Used both sealant and tape. There is no visible sealant applied between the external reveals and windows.

Does anyone if these water meters are noisy? Pulsed Cold Water Meter - 20mm, 3/4" BSP TM The Pulsed Cold Water Meter (20mm, 3/4" BSP TM) is designed for accurate monitoring of cold water consumption, typically linked to energy monitoring systems. Featuring a 20 mm nominal bore and 3/4" BSP TM thread, this meter ensures precise measurement with a pulse rate of 1 pulse per litre. [https://www.bes.co.uk/pulsed-cold-water-meter-3-4in-22976/]

Two considerations on leak detection are: a) cracking pressure of check valves: if measured up stream of check valves, a leak down stream of any check valve needs to lower the pressure enough for any check valves to open. I don't know the exact cracking pressure of check valves, but I would guess they are a fraction of a bar. b) supply pressure variation: not an issue as supply is isolated during a leak test. It does affect the working range of the sensor though. I'll have a PRV (pressure regulating valve) set to something like 5 bar (hopefully). I don't know how much of a pressure drop is considered a leak by the likes of the Moen Flo. I could conduct some tests, but my gut feeling at this point feels like a 0.5bar drop across 5 minutes would be a reasonable threshold. One retro fit option for a pressure sensor is to use a camera to observe the pressure gauge of the PRV. An ESP32 could WIFI an couple of images to a PC for analysis.

I used those 12.5mm marmox boards in pretty much the same situation, as suggested by folk on here( id never heard of them). I would use plenty of expsnfing foam to fix to the masonary with airtight sealant against the window frame( beware its very hard to remove from the frame if your messy!!) You can get special thin insulation washers used with screws which would fix to the timber frame and i would imagine the board should stay pretty plumb i just held mine against the masonsry until the foam had gone off. I used an airtight tape which you can skim over to connect the boards to the vapour barrier.

I don't think you'd ever feel disappointed with a2a aircon units.

Standards are useful no doubt, but I am not sure I would say they define 'good'. Often they define acceptable, or not unsafe, or structurally sufficent etc. I think 'good' tradespeople would easily exceed standards provided they have the attitude, working terms, environment to do so. There was a young lad early 20's working for my original builder, clearly seemed to want to do things properly and wanting to take job satisfaction from it. He was no longer working for the builder after a few months. It seemed clear that the builder's modus operandi & 'culture' just wasn't acceptable to him, he didn't want to be told to cut corners etc. There can be a very autocratic heirarchical structure in building - boss dictates, you do, don't ask questions, don't challenge, if something looks awry - keep your mouth shut. Site lead calls the shots right or wrong. Army like. There is always a time-cost-quality triangle. Some builders want to make money by squeezing down quality - cheap people, cheap materials, faster the better. A fair few customers can't afford or don't want to afford more I suppose. A sub-section of builders wanting to get paid for one quality standard, and build another.

Sorry, just seen this! We've not quite finished the install, been doing another refurb too so that kept us busy over summer, but, we have had everything on site for a while now so no issues with materials. It is a real shame AFT are leaving the UK market, I found both Greg & Olof very helpful and hugely knowledgeable and, the system is really well designed. Hoping we won't have any issues going forward, I think I ironed out any tech questions with Greg a while ago - should be finishing the raft over September so fingers crossed it all runs smoothly.

No recent knowledge so unlikely to help, but FWIW: In 2012 we had a pile and ring beam foundation done due to unstable ground. Not a regular shape (you need support for any internal load bearing), but approx 55 linear meters using 44x 9m piles with a ring beam and a few pins cost £27,480.75. But how much for strip foundations in 2012 to compare - no idea???

All correct. And whilst good in a commercial environment and enough to satisfy the law, its not really what im looking for. This is purely a hobby. If im cold, i wont enjoy it, so becomes pointless. Ive spent enough of my working life in cold workshop environments, even with various forms of heating to know i need better. My long term target is to maintain it through winter at 12c. 12c is ok if you are working. 2c or less, not so much. But until i sort the roof out, everything else is pointless.

Ive partly done/doing that. At the back (centre of pic) are the double doors into my "clean room". That fully insulated (apart from floor) The area under the mezz will recieve the same treatment with an insulated door on the front opening. That will be the "dirty room" for weding, fabrication, painting etc. But the main part of the workshop with the ramps, which is where i spend a good chunk of time doesnt lend itself to further subdivision, especially with the entrance door where it is. Ulitmately i need to sort out the roof as its just single skin fibre cement. So any heating just disappears. The walls are cavity block. The only sensible answer is either spray foam (expensive), but 27 of the roof sheets are cracked (mostly due to overtightening on install (!!!) so that needs fixing first. Or put another insulated steel roof on the inside. (more expensive) Replacing the whole roof is beyond expensive!

This summer if we had been able to reduce the upstairs temp by 3°C then we would have been very comfortable, so in that sense aircon is massive overkill. To put things in context we could also have opened the windows, and on most nights that would have done the job. But not all nights and our world is heating up. Plus we live near a river and I’m a complete wuss when it comes to mossies and gnats. It's really hard to predict how the different options will feel.

So was the quote something like reducing a room temp by 3 degrees? It all helps but can't see the other half being content in peak summer. Airconlite is probably a better term. I am more imagining my missus nicknaming it fake aircon if I installed it and it was ineffective.

This summed up my thoughts. The other ones @JohnMo mentioned look a bit sleeker. These FCU seem pretty deep profile don't they? I suppose you can't get a fan and effective cooling in a slim profile.

After saying never again, we are looking at another self build ‘opportunity’! The plot is ideal in terms of size and location but the compromise is soft clay requiring piled foundations. A full ground investigation has been done by the vendor which concludes that piling is definitely required. I know it is a piece of string question but can anyone suggest a reasonable cost difference between strip founds and ‘standard’ piles + ring beam? Looking at 220m2 two storey house with simple form factor so 110m2 rectangular footprint, timber frame and brick skin. TIA

There are various products (e.g. Moen Flo) on the market that effectively include the following elements: Wireless brain with some combination of WIFI, Zigbee and Bluetooth Motorised valve Flowrate sensor Pressure sensor It's a deal breaker for me to have something that requires a subscription (ongoing cost, dead device when cloud disappears,...) and most of the off the shelf ones are such. Consequently, I am tempted to roll my own and have identified the following parts as good options: Brain [£10] Lots of choice, ESP32 likely candidate. Relays likely needed to control mains voltages ... needs more thought Motorised valve [£30] You don't want a spring return one as that would require constant powering and also cut off your water whenever there was a power cut. There are various cheap options on the likes of Amazon (link) but they won't be WRAS approved. You can also get retrofit actuators (link) that operate an existing lever valve though these look like they would struggle with a stiff valve, but that approach does resolve the WRAS requirement. You can get wireless connected valves (eg link) that would allow connection to a home automation system to close the loop. Flowrate sensor [£50] There are plenty of off the shelf meters with digital pulses. For example this one from BES that does 1 pulse per litre. Would be WRAS Pressure sensor [£20] I haven't found one that is approved for drinking water (e.g. WRAS approved), but this is the sort of thing: https://www.dfrobot.com/product-1675.html A bit of elbow grease and some additional fittings and you can make your own system for around £100 that wouldn't go obsolete. The pressure sensor is the main issue at this point as it is required for leak detection (shut off water and see if pressure drops) but I haven't found one that is WRAS approved of claims to be OK for drinking water.

Plus, it’s just dogshit (pretty pictures).

Thanks gents, Screwfix beckons.

Trouble is they are just making pretty pictures. There is zero balancing of room output. All designed around a thermostat controlling the room temperature.

There must be, as it would need to take a modular access cover. Ring them on Tuesday and ask for a solution.

A few differences, mainly they are designed not to produce condensation, a normal fan coil is designed to run below dew point. So these units will have no condescension tray etc.

This is one masonry project, an EnerPHit type of standard. 20mm boards used, and still retained the 10mm that Norrsken asked for. Done with tile adhesive, and stuck on there like shit to a blanket. I flew these through prior to the windows going in, so they created frames for the EWI to be dressed into. These projected out around 160mm, for 150mm EWI + render etc, as you can see in the next pic with windows in. You can use tile adhesive with complete confidence, it’s remarkably good for this application, and way better at staving off damp bridging.