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Thanks. The other light isn’t square- so approx 3m of strip. The one in the pic is 10-12m of LED strip.

Let us see how much this changes in the next few months.

@JohnMo Thanks, I got a Bowman heat exchanger, but the thought and pain of cutting into the pipework under the tub is what puts me off most. I tend to use Bromine rather than chlorine but haven’t looked into changing chemicals. I’m also trying to plumb this in parallel with the existing element and controls to keep those running once warm. HT hasn’t had water in it for a couple of months while I scratch my…. Head

I am working in a company as a junior and still a bit of a newbie with this stuff. I ask these questions to clear my own understanding and learn from people who have more experience. I am not planning a specific installation at the moment. Just trying to understand the options and what things to consider before making decisions.

That pebble dashing is surely much more recent? Ie not breathable.

Always think people overthink this. Mostly around HA etc, Scottish rules seem to be well thought out. Heat alarm only in a kitchen, smoke everywhere else. All interlinked. How big is your house to need to 24 sensors? We have 4 smoke and 1 heat in a 3 bed bungalow.

I can imagine how unpleased you were this morning....................

Pretty simple plumbing, I just have an after filter and used thick wall hose as pipe, which is also insulated. One issue that came up was main pump cavitation due to the pump being at top of the ASHP package. So have installed a spare Wilo pump I had laying around. This is in the suction line and runs 24/7. Main ASHP only runs in Cosy tariff windows and use a timer acting on the external thermostat terminals. But I cannot use chlorine based chemicals, so use a bunch of copper fittings in a bag, non chorine shock dose intermittently and sodium peroxide (12.99%) as routine bio-growth prevention. But you would need to keep CH water and HT water apart. Chlorine stuff above would also apply unless you use a titanium heat exchanger as opposed to Stainless 304 which are more normal

Nice Kitchen. OK, So you have two 9m long LED strip lights - so at say 500 lm/m would give 4500lm each. Thanks.

Maybe call them direct. I have found them to be very helpful in the past.

No problem at all, glad it helped. On a 2400mm cill I'd add an extra packer and a cill clip or bracket roughly every 600mm along the length rather than just at the ends and mullions, as the long ones can bow slightly in the middle once a bit of weight goes on. Also worth leaving a small gap at each end for expansion before the end caps go on, as aluminium moves more than you'd think over that length in summer sun. Good luck with the install.

It depends on what the S106 was for. As @Temp mentioned, you should get a copy of the planning permission and S106 agreement from planning and go from there.

I do not have that exact unit, but if the pump is running and the level still climbs, the discharge side is not keeping up with the inflow. I would check the discharge pipe for a blockage and make sure the non return valve is actually opening, then look at the float levels. For the correct operating level and the filter layout, We Build It Ltd should be able to send you the manual or a service sheet.

The clamp can go two different ways around. There is often an arrow on them. Get it the wrong way around, the effective polarity changes and it senses imports as exports.

Clamp is on the feed to fuse box an is all good.

Just to add… Building Control “strongly recommended” a Grade D, Category LD1 system.

That's really useful to know - thanks for taking the time to explain the detail. I can use this for the larger, 2400mm, windows with some peace of mind.

Thanks - so you are saying if I implement that specific planning entry I pay the S106 (makes sense) - but if I submit my own plans (which I will) and the CIL Exemption form for a self-build then it wouldn't apply

The Cool Energy units can do cooling out of the box, not sure if they go small enough.

I think I may have figured out what has caused the cracks under all the windows. Bernard the builder assured me that building internal sills with concrete was "what we always do". I did suggest a block of compacfoam may be a better idea, but what do I know? Concrete went in October last year, so temperature at the time probably 5 to 10 C. No expansion joints at the end. I must be missing something here. It can't be what I think it is, surely? That would be way too incompetent, right? Every window the same, the crack width directly proportional to window width.

When I say one light… yes there’s two and yes I dim them to 40% max. Don’t have a night shot yet. This is the kitchen end…

So a 36sqm room lit with 2 lights ? Are they extremely bright floodlights. otherwise I am bringing a torch when I come for dinner. 300 lm/sqm * 36 = 10,800, divide by 2, you have 5000+ lumen lights ? And you dim them ?!

5 kw panasonic J series. WH-MDC05J3E5 Does cooling out of the box. Very easy to set up, cheap as chips, and now available in anthracite.

our KD is 9x4, two main lights I created myself. Shelly wall panel next to main door with physical switches for each (and the touchscreen sliders for brightness) if you must use them. There’s overlapping mmWave PIR sensors which bring the lights up on motion (with some rules around brightness and time of day/ outside light) which do most of the use case. Switches can override and a zigbee rotary dial on the side of the microwave can set levels from the kitchen area. One highlight LED strip under high cabinets for ‘interest’.

100% this. I really don't want to be switching multiple switches/dimmers on and off in every room to achieve what I want. People scoff at home automation and argue they don't want to be interacting with an app, but if done properly, accessing the app should be a rare event.