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Timber frame around the perimeter for the Astro to be attached to, but can be peeled back carefully for inspection. under Astro - sharp sand, then type one MOT compacted then earth. Before Astro - per picture, decorative stones, on top of the type one MOT. Stones removed prior to Astro going down. Rotten joist pics attached Yes I think there must have been as as you can see the joints were previously sistered, so clearly someone has attempted to fix them before we moved in but not the underlying issue. no air brick Cant See the dpm, render outside so isn’t obvious yep we have had damp marks inside the doors joists run left to right **joist pics to follow - even though they are under 2mb, the site won’t allow me to post as apparent they’re over so will try to convert them

yeah but as I said drains on the opposite side of the plot . Managed to get hold of the neighbor (another LL) and his tenants have reported cracks in the same place their side - so I'm on insurers back now.

Welcome. There's a whole winter's worth of reading here. Many of us have been here for years - and still find its worth the effort to waste time learning stuff.

Well @Pocster , hair won't grow round this one.... A quick look for a cracked foul drain scouring out the pipe trench ? Cheap, quick, easy.

Building on the above. So we built a correction mechanism and this feeds into the start of the process to hopefully limit getting miss calculations of heat input data. We also added an adjustable internal target temperature to some variation in house temperature if needed.

In the past I have put in temporary floor decks with 18mm T&G OSB which was later binned and replaced. This was with treated timber joists. As it was a 3 storey building and a bit fiddly there was no chance of getting up and in the dry quick enough.

Same here. Since I installed our current MVHR unit in March or April (can't remember exactly!) it dribbled for a few weeks, then it's been dry ever since. I also have it dropping into a bucket, for the same reason! Must buy that concrete hole drill...

Yes pretty normal, we don't make much condensation in summer. It's warm or warm damp air in winter from house being cooled across the heat exchanger, releasing water which goes to drain.

I'm going to push the insurer to supply a loss adjuster/subsidence specialist - I hope they see it's in their interest to establish cause and remedial work rather than me "try"

Was wondering what the logistics are in relation to installing the first floor posi joists. They are obviously built in, so I assume they are fitted and then the scaffolders erect the bird cage?

Thanks. Floor window cills all fine. So how do they access that party wall?. Neighbour isn't helpful as presumably they want me to sort and pay the excess whilst potentially benefitting. Lets assume the movement has stopped ; how can we be certain there wont be more?. I have monitored it for a year now doesn't appear worse. So what would/should a contractor do?

What is the makeup outside then ? Do you have a timber deck under the astro ? Then concrete or earth or something under that ? Is the astro fixed down somehow or can you peel it back ? Maybe you have some photos of before the deck and astro were put in ? Any photos of what the rotten joists looked like ? Did you have problems before they were put in ? Any air bricks down there ? Where is the DPC because ends of timber joists should be on top of DPC/DPM ? Any mold on the bottom of the wall inside or staining outside ? Presumably the joists run front to back in the room behind the bifolds ? I just think you need to be as certain as humanly possible about the cause in order to specify the best fix.

@Pocster if on clay it could be subsidence or heave ( your part is lifting when the other side stays put, is your floor and window cill still level? If yes then it’s the side that is subsiding and as you point out, access is the problem for under pinning or jacking. I would put some movement monitors across the cracks (can be as simple as a couple of pieces of tape with marks to see the movement). If movement has stopped then you can look at stitching.

Yeah I was thinking that. But wont an SE just say "yes subsidence" , cctv down drain to eliminate that as potential cause i.e. collapsed; and then tell me to get a professional subsidence company in? The most likely reason is ground shrinkage - as the entire area is mainly on clay. But how do you "get under" a shared wall that isn't directly accesible ?

Nope they've had zero work

Feels like it's time for a professional? Find an SE to give an opinion?

It's buggered buddy. One of your rentals ? I don't know if there is still a stigma around houses that have had subsidence. Patch it up and flog it ?

I'm considering a Grundfos Sololift2 WC-1 macerator over a Saniflo Santitop UP for a WC+basin situation. They seem cheaper which makes me nervous as Saniflo are the known brand. The Grundfos one looks better made though. Does anyone have any experience with either unit? If you've installed the Grundfos Sololift2 WC-1, is the installation guide just saying it needs to go horizontally in something larger before it goes down to 22/25/28mm?

That is more than a resin fix .. crack appears wider at the top than bottom so too is falling away - probably being pulled by next door property. Have they had any major works done? Cellar dug out to make it deeper etc.?

Yes it’s Astro turf outside the bifolds. It looks lower but is In fact marginally higher than outside, albeit clearly not enough. slope - I need to run a level On it, will do later and refer back here. Interestingly neither of the people quoting got a spirit level on it. agree about it possibly pooling but the timber the Astro sits on seems fine which is odd. lowering could be done but creates an issue as our main patio is level wirh the Astro, I can’t be removing 50 m square of patio and lowering it all. no internal step up

We dont yet have our outlet plumbed in to the drain but rather it is dropping into a bucket below the MVHR unit and empty the bucket as and when needed. Because of this its easy to monitor the water coming out - the confusing thing is that the bucket has been dry for about the last 6 months! Is this normal over the warmer months? thanks

Our builder had to get someone with the right cutting equipment to cut timber lengths into the right taper for the furrings. Best to cut two lengths from each rectalinear timber. What is needed depends on your structural 'joist' layout and desired slopes. If all furrings/slopes are orthogonal to the joists then different furring thicknesses only are needed without the tapers. It is possible to get PIR slabs cut into multiway tapers to provide slopes, so you lay them on a flat surface and they create whatever contour you want on top. Of course you have no use for their insulation value outside. Will you have a roofer doing the single ply ? You could consult with them. Some single ply manufacturers have specific makeups/specs to be followed to provide a guarantee.

of note (maybe) there is a drain running under the property (front to back) but thats on the opposite wall

TBH even with recent photo's it looks pretty much the same. I notice on the landing ceiling some obvious damp so maybe render cracked on roof? The main cracks are on a shared wall with neighbour i.e. terraced house. So even with resin how do they fix that? Going to have to get insurance involved for 1K excess ... What I dont want really is subsidence fixed 1k poorer and then I still need a roofer/plasterer and decorator!