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The other interesting thing is the DT at the boiler On initial start it doesn't apply full power to hit target temp because the DT would be greater than 20 Once the DT is at 20 Deg it applies full power Once the DT starts shrinking it modulates down (it's not doing that by knowing the return temp it doing it based on the flow temp rising above target and then it modulates down At the end of the day you are intermittently heating - your circuit temp at the start is less than 15 Deg C (now the rads will normally be at the same temp as the room when the system has been off for a while so clearly your tolerance for cooler temps is greater than mine or rather Mrs Alien) I do wonder if you would be better of heating low and slow rather than blasts of heat, cool down, blast of heat etc If your flow temp was say 45 deg C and initial circuit temp was 15 the boiler wouldn't have to throttle back and wait for a DT of 20 before hitting the circuit with full power. The return temp would rise and the boiler would modulate down sooner and probably much more........ However with a flow temp of 45 you'd need to have rads that were big enough to emit the heat the rooms needed.

I would think it's managing the modulation based on flow temp target Anyway kWh usage below for the for the two sessions 100% being the first one shows the boiler is really chucking everything it can at the circuit 49% being the second one shows it's modulation percentage is not far out

Difficult to explain but here’s what I’m thinking. The difference from what seems to be the norm is not taking the perimeter strip all the way to the concrete slab. It feels better to make sure the insulation is tight/snug to the edges of the room. Unless the perimeter strip (green) is supposed to also provide some compression/expansion around the pir.

Yes. Just the ground floor so far with a manifold and nothing else. Can you explain what that means? I am finding that I have to double check everything the "qualified" professionals tell me because it seems no one cares nowadays. I'm happy to do this myself if I have the means, I really want to get this right before it goes in. These images may be of interest, maybe not.

Looks great! Yes, it would get stripped, not sure how many tiles we will save, below is the best image I’ve currently got. I mocked up a solar layout, the gaps are for roof lights plus with the hip we might be spending a bit of slates and a half by the sounds of it.

The pictures are better on radio. One problem solved. Fires in homes are coming under more scrutiny and legislation, so why bother. Another problem solved.

Ok, gave it a whirl and logged the temps and burner/pump outputs at each interval too. TLDR it did run well but overshot the target by 5c and stayed there for a while whilst modulating down slowly. Some things worth noting before looking at the data below. I set the pump setting back to pump 6, the highest constant pressure setting, rather than setting 0 (which makes it relative to the burner). Now that the HEX is fixed, I did want to try that to see if it ran well and still got everything hot etc. Also worth noting the target temp on this run was set to 60'c On for 5minutes Flow 30.6 return 15.6 Burner 62% Pump 93% On 15 minutes Flow 50.9 return 29.0 Burner 100% Pump 100% On 25 minutes (target temp reached) Flow 60.1 return 39.1 Burner 100% Pump 100% On 30 minutes Flow 63.2 return 42.8 Burner 95% Pump 100% On 35 minutes Flow 64.8 return 46.4 Burner 85% Pump 100% On 45 minutes Flow 64.8 return 50.2 Burner 65% Pump 100% On 55 minutes Flow 61.9 return 50.7 Burner 49% Pump 100% big time gap now as I stopped measuring till it settled to actual target temp of 60'c On 1h35mins Flow 59.9 return 47.8 burner 49% pump 100% Lastly, I did two lots of measures on the meter, first set when the boiler was at 100% and second set when it had settled to 49% 100% meter readings (in m3 meter cubed) 0mins - 7293.39 3 mins - 7293.56 6mins - 7293.74 49% meter readings ( in m3 meter cubed 0mins -7296.14 3mins -7296.22 6mins -7296.31 What do you guys think? To me im not sure why it's staying above target for so long before it starts modulating down. If the greenstar 8000 has no return sensor, i wonder what is making it think it needs to stay so hot at such high % long after target is achieved?

I like that layout, you can see the fire, you can see the tv, you can see out to the garden. Perhaps a motorised tv mount to swing it out a bit when in use? And the unit below solves the age old problem of where to put all the "set top" boxes. Always a problem with a wall hung tv.

That consultation is not the BR it is for PAS 9980 on fire assessment/remediation of existing blocks of flats.

No, not your fault at all. The ASHP supplier should be doing at least a basic calculation of the index circuit of the UFH as that will help them to design the ASHP system properly. But I assume from what you say that the people who installed the UFH have installed just the UFH manifolds without mixers and pumps on the manifold? Yes, absolutely. The simpler the better, but for a 3 bed house, there should be no need for any hydraulic separation or additional pumps with a system that runs low flow temps straight into the UFH.

Hi, yes we did (had to chk, photo attached)...our main roof is 40 degree pitch and we have an attached single storey at 30 degree....just checked 1 1/2slates alone were just shy of 800 ex vat. Other question, does your roof need stripping before they start?

Hello, We've started our self-build journey three years ago. We have successfully obtained planning and are 'just' waiting for the conditions to be discharged and the party wall awards being finalised. We have finance in place and were looking forward to breaking ground very soon. However, the contractor who we had lined up just withdrew himself from the project. We were so happy to have him on board as he not only had worked with our architect before but had also completed multiple SIP buildings before. We're now back to finding someone. We still have @Clays on board for the actual SIP superstructure but need someone who can clad the building in brick and put the roof on, essentially getting it water tight. We have quite a few brick details such as quoins and therefore need to get this right to bring the design to life. Do you have any advice where to find a SIP experienced contractor? In addition we need someone who can sort the groundworks including piling for the basement. The basement itself would be supplied and installed by a company called Glatthaar, who would leave us with the basement and foundations in place. Do you have any advice where to find suitable contractors? We have exhausted the links the architect has and can't find any details for experienced SIP contractors online. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. It feels that this is the last roadblock we need to overcome to finally create our family home. Thank you! Sabine

Ok, so you’re installing a constructional slab over insulation then? If so, as your pics keep suggesting a thinner screed , then yes, just install it for the depth of the concrete for belt and braces.

Agreed. I would want the horizontal centre of the TV to be in line with the mantelpiece. To the right. You could easily conceal all the cables and kit in the alcove.

This is probably my fault but after going through various options I elected to have the UFH designed and installed by a different company to the ASHP supplier. But this is where I am, it's too late to change that now. But I can get the ASHP design right with the right knowlege. This is the bit that concerns me. The worst thing I find is those who say "That's the way we always do it". So to summarize: I am gleaning from this thread that, given that I want to achieve the most efficient system, I don't need or shouldn't have a buffer or secondary pumps? To me this leaves the flow rate up to the heat pump control system which, from the little I know as of now seems like the best option. I'm going to go back to the installer in the new year and query this and, to be fair, they are responsive, if a little dismissive of my technical questions. I need to be in a reasonable position to argue the case if I am to change the system design. As for the DWH cylinder. I chose a large one and have not had any push-back on it being over-sized for a 3 bedroom house. Yes it is big but to me, and my need for deep, long baths I would be furious if I installed one too small. I would never get over it.

That is a very personal choice. A lot depends on your sofa. If you are watching a tv at roughly seated eye level then it does not matter. But what I found visiting a relative with a tv above the fireplace is it got VERY tiring with your head constantly tilted looking upwards and a low backed sofa. It would imho need a sofa with a high back so you could rest your head against the high backrest to begin to make it bearable for me.

As you are not using natural gas, have you thought of Air to Air Heat Pumps? Regardless of what system is used, plenty of floor insulation will help, best to get it done early as it is hard to add it into a slab later.

The consultation on the new regs finishes in a few days time. https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/cev8mrgky9eo

The slats are more open where the main windows are. if you walk up a street in a new housing development just as barratt homes most houses have blinds or shutters closed most of the day to stop people staring in. the new building regs are going to make you have shading over your windows anyway

Oh wow, nice congrats and how exciting. Look forward to seeing that.

Haha! I guess it’s me but he knows what he likes, and has some pretty solid design rules. Lots! Mainly films and so was thinking of a cinema room. Rather than a pull down tv, maybe a projector or something? Maybe that would work. Or maybe it swings from here? (I did an AI version) I really love all these ideas.

Just introducing myself before I post about my project and sketchup plans etc. I look forward to hearing your opinions and advice. I value a diverse set of opinions.

This is really helpful so thank you, definitely didn't appreciate the slate and halves. Did you slate and half up to the solar as well as the roof edges then? I can see how that would stack up....

Just to be contrary. Definitely put it above the fireplace, your head won’t be at a noticeable angle and it is fully articulated so you’ll cope with any minor angle required. Replace the mantle piece with a larger one to provide heat protection (maybe remove a course or two of blocks so the mantle piece can be lower). Then get a Samsung ‘the frame’ TV so that you have a stunning artwork in pride of place, above the fireplace, for those times you’re not watching the box.

Thanks Nick, this was just an internal cupboard but do understand the principle. Thought that these perimeter strips were more to allow for expansion and stopping the screed escaping, the external walls are 420mm wide! Have a great Christmas.