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Looks very nice Yes do what has been described above. Also leave a expansion along the doors with trim fixed to doors. The guys I work for fitted some and it buckled in front of the bifold doors, I took it up and relaid it and made sure all expansion gaps etc, and it still buckled. We think it's was the flooring but I would always leave a gap now as it is a massive hassle if it goes wrong. And do not do H pattern it is even more likely to happen.

It does. technically your SE may have designed the garage roof to provide lateral restraint to the wall, hence the built in joists and the bearing will be down the middle third of the wall. But hangers are not quite often as robust, the load path is slightly different. Practically, given your experience from what you have posted brickies are not your forte. The hangers are likely going to be all over the place level wise and you're garage roof will end up looking like a roller coaster. You are just digging yourself another hole. Now from memory your designer is not helpful, neither is your SE. If you want a bit of help with this then post some photos not least.

Thanks for that. AFAICS the Adey tests aren't as widely available in small quantities but with unauthorised break-bulk Fernox distributors I guess you get what you get. Ebay will not yet let me give negative feedback as there is a 7 day embargo. The Vaillant-approved installers did a full Adey 3-part water test (pH, turbidity, inhibitor) on completion but don't seem to be interested in routine servicing. As you say, Vaillant are notorious for finding reasons for invalidating your warranty so it is doubly irritating their technicians do not touch anything not of their supply incl. water quality. Would still like to hear more about what other ppl do in these circumstances!

I always left an expansion gap. One can assume with UFH and the south sun beating down it's gonna move. I left it maybe 5, 8mm from the edge of the doors and put a trim over it with the trim attached to the doors rather than the floor so it can expand underneath it without bucking. The rest was just a gap that you can't see once I'd added skirting. I did ponder having a sunken mat as well but ultimately couldn't be arsed with the hassle. My plan was the same as above with a trim from the mat well and then over the edge onto the floor with the LVT edge covered by this, I guess like an upside down L shape. Like I say I didn't go for it, so couldn't really advise on that one.

@Super_Paulie that looks amazing. Excellent job! Did you have any of it flush with an edge that wasn’t under skirting? My areas of challenge are going to be the mat well at the front door and along a large sliding window which we really want a flush finish. Some have suggested gluing that section down and allowing the other areas under skirting to maintain the expansion gap, but I’m not so sure. It’s a bit of a conundrum for me atm.

You could consider parging behind them too just in case you ever need to airtight the garage .

No it’s osb decked. It’s all in press fit. If that makes any difference? I haven’t noticed any leaks yet or random booster pump cycling.

Yeah I've done it. I used a block and mallet on the short sides to put that home and an offcut and mallet to bring the long side into the tongue/groove. It's a fairly satisfying project I found. Easy to cut with a straight edge and a Stanley knife, just score it and snap, jobs a good un. With the UFH I often hear the odd click of a length popping out slightly I assume, but it hasn't been a problem so far and I'm 18 months in. Also dropped SWMBO's favourite ceramic ice bucket on it which exploded into a million bits but the LVT was undamaged. What I found a pain, especially in a big room, was trying to keep the pattern random. So a plank with as many individual designs as possible is a bonus, I was always fighting it trying to randomise it. Worked out nice though I thought.

The brass that the olive is trying to compress into is harder than the olive so won't deform, it's normal. It may have a joint under the floor that is designed to spin hopefully. You will just have to keep checking for leaks. Is this a concrete or wood floor, if wood can you take any up to check it?

So how long does an average heat pump last then? Whilst it’s a bit of string question in many ways there must be norms. Modern condensing gas boilers seem to have a useful life of about 9 years, so is there an equivalent for heat pumps? Or are they trigger’s broom?

I tried that I got it as tight as I can get it. by god it was hard to do for some reason. It’s not leaking at the moment. Just seems alien to me that the olive isint compressed into the pipe. yes the pipe work did spin under the floor multiple times believe it or not when I was trying to tighten the nut. I assume this is bad?

I have fitted a couple, it is basically same as wood laminate be careful with the short joints when tapping down they can crack if not right. Make sure you have expansion gaps around the edges.

You are not dumb, you got this far. @Nickfromwales was meaning loosen the nut against the tap a little this will allow it to spin, Then if you have the spanner handles close to each other so when doing up they close up the gap(kep fingers out of the gap it can hurt if it slips😂). You should not turn the pipe, then tighten nut to tap. Did the tap and all pipe work spin under the floor? As nick said get this connected and see if the other leaks.

I’ve not found any examples / threads / blogs talking about installation of floating LVT click flooring (i.e. not glueing down). Has anyone got any advice or tips on doing this yourself?

tiles to primed plywood, shower tray to primed plywood and tiles to jackoboard.

Interesting that they are both marketed as "flexible" as one is definitely more flexible than the other! C - Cementitious adhesive D - Dispersion adhesive (ready-mixed) R - Reaction resin adhesive (epoxy) 1 or 2 - Standard or improved performance E - Extended open time F - Fast setting T - Reduced slip (non-sag) S1 / S2 - Deformable / highly deformable "S1: Deformable/flexible adhesive capable of transverse deformation between 2.5 mm and 5 mm without cracking the bond. (Note: When written as C2TE S1, the product actually combines all of these properties into a single high-performance adhesive)." What are you fixing, and to what substrate?

Yeah, unsurprisingly I'm still learning my way through how the system all sings together. We have a single garage next to the house, and the only cables between the two (in ducts, buried) are 2 x 7kw armoured and 2 x CAT6A. In the house we have an inverter and 4kw of solar panels, in the same utility room as the fuse box where the CAT6A and 2 x 7kw cables terminate. Tieh solar panels are tied to an old school 80p/kw FIT which we do not want to lose (!) hence being ok with 2 x inverter for solar and battery. I'm trying to work if there is any blockers to installing battery and inverter in single garage, making use of the 7kw cable and if any other ancillary control cables can use the CAT7A... Current clamps etc? Fogstar batteries very much looking at the size and price point is like, of around 16-20kWh storage. Hopefully this is clear!

B*ggery b*llox. Well, it looks like my repair has failed. I’ll have to dismantle it in the morning to confirm. I wonder if it’s a software issue and the motor keeps trying to turn in the same direction after the flapper has reached its movement limit??

whats the difference between these 2 then? "Standard set flexible" vs "Flexible Standard set". Ha'way man UltraTile, make it a bit more feckin obvious. Should i go for SPES because id imagine that stands for sommat important.

I think I’m too dumb for those instructions haha can you dumb that down a bit

disregard this I did not see the part where it say you are using double batons

Yes. I do think that is the best option. It means the brickies can build up the masonry and I also don't have to worry about the scaffolders erecting the scaffolding in the garage for the house upper storey and a pole coinciding with a joist. Also means I can do the garage roof in my own time at the weekend 👍

Not sure as I "don't do pressfit"..... The two nuts can be pulled towards each other and the pipework below can be kept 'still', if you connect the flexi only a few turns hand tight onto the bath tap first, then finish tightening, and then go back to do the final tighten on the bath connector last. You can balance how much you pull on each spanner until tight, without transferring any rotational force 'down below'. The answer to the question "have I fecked it?", will be answered when the pump kicks in fella. Just suck it up and whack it on, the worst thing that can happen is in that link. Crack on

I have the Adey kit and use it quite a lot actually - works well and is reliable. When I bought my kit which comes with the charts - 1 per test strip, the big pack of test strips were out of date so I emailed my supplier and they arranged replacement directly from Adey. Once I ran out of in date ones and used the out of date ones and they were still fine. Technically it's now a service requirement on most if not all gas boilers and heat pumps. I'm sometimes surprised when systems I installed and dosed correctly show low levels of inhibitor, but it happens even after just a year sometimes. I'm not sure how often most systems get tested. I went through a phase of testing every new gas boiler I serviced and ran a good top-up business for a while until I stopped taking on new customers. As for Vaillant technicians not testing, well that's pretty much a given, but just wait until there's a warranty claim - as customers of mine who became my customers learned when their hex started leaking on a nearly new Glow-worm and the installer wasn't interested. Vaillant/Glow-worm visited and told them they wouldn't touch it unless they could provide a certificate that the system had been flushed to BS standards and that inhibitor had been added (even thought the system was leaking) - queue them calling me.

Ledger board and face fixed hangers to this?