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Just working out how much rigid insulation I’ll be needing for the roof/walls of my little Outer Hebrides project. Looks like it will be in the region of 59 sheets (2.400 x 1.200mm). Is there a rule of thumb or way to estimate how much 100mm silver aluminium tape I will need to get?

Hello. I have a radial circuit running from a 20a RCCBO from the main consumer unit to a carport about 10m away. It initially runs in 4mm2 t&e then transitioning to 4mm SWA 3 core in a ground duct and then to 4mm t&e clipped to the frame inside the actual structure. On the radial are 2 double sockets and a single socket. Would it be ok to add a 32a commando socket with an interlocked on/off switch to this circuit. Obviously it would never be used to it's full 32a capacity given the RCCBO.

Not just light switches. These grid switches are just a frame into which you clip in any type of switch you want. You are supposed to have an accessible isolating switch for every fixed appliance, like washing machine, dishwasher, fridge / freezer, ovens etc. The old way was one switch above the worktop immediately above the appliance. Another way is switches in cupboards next to appliance (my preferred) but some like to put them all together in once place with one of these grid switches.

They may just be arbitraging, does not mean something has gone wrong.

Nothing obvious here: https://bmrs.elexon.co.uk/events

Had notification earlier this afternoon of an event tonight. I guess with4.5 hours notice something unplanned has happened to the grid/generation?? I've messaged Axle to see if it's possible for them to include an explanation of the need for grid support when they send out an event notification email.

Mainly because it was suggested to run them this way, but I do have a tricky service route to the furthest manifold with a steel beam in the way.

I have not read the whole thread but wondered why you ruled out running the pipes in the ceiling void?

My last sketch has really confused things, apologies for that. So I've done it again over the correct layout design to represent what I'm well advanced into laying... Ignore the previous version. Does this make more sense?! The long run is around 20m, the short one is 8m.

But why do you need all these switches? As I said earlier we have one switch for the whole kitchen diner and another for the cabinets and lights under them. You just make life way more complex than it needs to be.

You can do either, really depends on you routing options. But your previous images shows 2 sets of pipes doing the same route to the first manifold, so why not just do one set of pipes to the first manifold and extend to the next manifold.

So are you saying it's wrong to install these 2 manifolds in "parallel" configuration and I should instead be installing them in "series"?

The pipes are 25/26mm MLCP.

I've got one of them mini grid setups... Next to a door on an outside wall leading to a kitchen diner, the kitchen has two banks of lights as does the diner, then I've got control of the PIR's on the back of the house. I was being kind to the sparky, nice tall backbox to play with rather than a 6 switch 2 gang setup.

@crispy_wafer good tip on the sealant bead behind the tray, that's the bit that actually keeps the water out day to day. On the tape, yes it's a thing with most tanking kits. You bed a fabric tape or sealing band into the tanking liquid, lapped onto the board and down onto the tray edge, so if the silicone ever lets go the water hits a membrane rather than the board edge. Some stone resin trays have no upstand though, and a few makers say not to tape onto the top surface of the tray, so it's worth junglejim checking what his tray maker says. If tape is a no, your gap and sealant method plus a good silicone bead after tiling is the sensible route.

the thought of getting 10mm, 6mm and plenty of 2.5mm into the back of one of those grids put me right off. A row of hidden switched isolators in a cupboard for me. Turned them on and never looked at them since.

Great information - thanks all I aim to be living on site in a static caravan so keep control of deliveries etc. I will also use Andrew Jones VAT man and give him access to Google drive folder with receipts. Yes, all receipt have to be in my name and address with their VAT registration number. I hope that most can email a PDF copy I can file - otherwise I will simply scan and put the files into the folder manually The Spreadsheet is for my personal use - but ability to link to that receipt would make sense

Ah so they put the screed on and it cracked so they chipped it up. Not sure what the failure was, a mix of air in the bricks and dpm that it didn’t stick too. All fixed but yeah, bit of a shame.

More gold here

Read this through. Saves me a boatload more typing, lol.

Yes, I did that straight away, I'd just cut those ends and took the pic before I re-taped them!

Well yes and I have had different plumbers at different times. The first pic is my utility and I used temporary outside taps that were previously fitted there to measure flow rates with a couple of plumbers watching me do it. Clearly the flow would have been a little higher if they were full bore valves and no plumber ever said do you know those are reduced bore valves. I am sure the things will make no material difference to the taps, but the principle of the thing still grates. When you have flow issues I have found it strange that none of the plumbers I have had has seemed remotely interested in actually measuring flow at different points across the system to work out a solution. We just go straight into, it could be this, it could be that, it could be the other, and trial and error mode with each one often offering up a different seemingly random point of view. A frustrating approach to what should be measure, deduce, fix. The pipework in the other pics is in the kitchen. One pipe feed leaves there to go through some conduit and around behind cabinets to exit to an outside tap. Another pipe feed goes off through conduit to a fridge freezer with ice maker and cold water dispenser. So they both need valves. There was an apprently completely unique question that arose at the time about whether hard or soft water should be fed to the fridge freezer - no answer was available from any relevant 'professional' - the manufacturer didn't know - the kitchen company didn't know - the plumber didn't know. So in the hiatus the plumber decided for himself to do the pipework so it could be switched either way. Sadly I am increasingly exasperated by things at present. Moving forward successfuly is just so, so difficult. Some will be aware of my flooring saga - 6 months to get most of a floor done. Well after removing the foil from my bifolds (which was put up to try and keep the temperatures down so the floorer could work)... I now find there are a few faulty LVT planks that will have to be changed - a couple with manufacturing faults that were not visible until full daylight hits them - three where the laying is in error with raised lumps at the edge between one plank and another. Getting a carpenter is like a search for the holy grail.

just a word to the wise, when bedding the board down leave a 5mm or a bit larger gap around the back and side edges, get a good slug of your favourite sealant (I use EBT) all the way down and along the gap then push the tray back to the backerboard, have loads of wipes and clean up the excess that is pressed out. I'm not entirely sure about tanking tape from board to tray edge? Is this a thing, curious?

I agree with Nick on keeping 15mm to the WCs, as that slow fill gets old fast. For basins, the hand tight connector is fine in practice, just make sure the washer sits flat and the pipe is clipped so it is not pulling on the tap tail. A neat run of 10mm clipped close to the wall looks tidy enough to me, and it is easier to check for a weep than a flexi hidden behind a pedestal.

I agree with keeping the kitchen tap unsoftened, that is the detail I would not change. The block salt units mentioned above tend to be the simplest to live with, but I would still size it on peak morning demand rather than an average day. In the plant room, leave clear space for salt top ups, a reachable bypass, and a proper drain and overflow route before the unit goes in.