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Going amazingly well! Swapped to pi harness with custom code around it. Codex was dropping connection and being a dog - local YEAH! BS Pi is 100% local. So chat produces a scout prompt. I run it with 1 keypress from custom harness and pi. Upload back to chat if it passed/failed all the tests. If it's good chat does patch. Another single menu prompt and patch applied. Upload back to to chat if passed/failed. This loop is going REAL good. Took a few days to get the harness right with various models and bugs Treating chat as software engineer/architect is the way to go. Alexa's timer feature for example basically added in under 1 hour. - a good test!. Not touched or even look at 1 line of code.

Ask the SE. It is their job to specify correctly.

I had exactly this issue on a previous and very old house. I skimmed it level locally using latex screed. It lasted for years and may yet be there. BUT I haven't seen this product again. It came as 2 parts if I recall. There was certainly a bag of dust and there may have been some liquid additive. The finished product was very flexible, almost like a soft shoe sole, (ie latex) and that will be why it stayed in place. I'm hoping someone else might know what it was. 'Latex' screeds now all seem to set hard and brittle. It was almost like a layer of bostik. Thought. What about wood glue? The kind you buy in a tin.... evostik?

My SE has specified the use of Ancon SPB or similar farme cramps to restrain the new steel column with the existing wall. It fairly clear how this would work with the new block wall, but I can't see these being useful with the existing, unless I need to scrape out and then re-motar? What other alternatives are there? A simple option I can think of is the use of masonry framing screws, or for something more robust resin some bolts through into the wall.

We had 75mm crusher run for our temporary access (still there 😀). We've had upto 32 ton lorries over it and its stood up well. I would use it for a slab foundation - probably will use it for the garage, with a 50 - 75mm sand layer and DPM before slab is poured

Apply online for EE to supply you with fibre broadband. They seem to have a better "way in" to Openreach, maybe something to do with the historical BT(EE) / Openreach relationship, that seems to loosen the red tape. My advice is do not engage with OR directly.

Hmmm. I can only go from my own experience, maybe we were just lucky!

1200mm gives me this dream scenario, much like Dave.

OK. So this seems worth further pushing. If anybody has any tips on how to poke a hole in the BT/Openreach brick wall I am all ears. In the past I have found that the only way to get anywhere with BT is to write to the chairman with a complaint. Perhaps I will try that tactic first.

Can that section of floor be cut lifted and shimmed level? Would be my first thought. If not then slc over ply appears to be the method I read about most often. Only a DIY’er so take my thoughts with a pinch of salt

Love that? How much? Do they do a single pitch roof?

Any input on my post above?

Imagine how much character some of us must have.

Absolutely. This is little understood. In fact there used to be false, or musleadingly vague, assertions about the effect of shiny faces on plasterboard, pir, and that loft wrap multilayer stuff I won't name. These have now been dropped but the rumour lives on.* It is is still implied that the aluminium layer within an underfloor heating pipe is doing this, but it isn't. I've burned the plastic off an offcut and found the inner pipe is surprisingly robust, ie not like kitchen wrap. I don't know what it is for.. it helps it hold a shape but also makes it vulnerable to kinking. Back to the question... some of these crates do have pockets of air but I doubt there is much/any benefit in foil. It's not as if the heat is being lost outdoors or to a neighbour..... it would only heat the ceiling void at worst, and only once. * @Mulberry View do you mind sharing where you heard of this supposed benefit? ** I once went to a presentation by superfoil, arranged by the local bco. (It was a short walk and free buffet). I was itching for the pitch on reflective aluminium but he didn't mention it, just another new product which I haven't seen since. Btw they measured insulation in their own way. I'm not saying it didn't work, but bubblewrap is cheaper.

My understanding is that is an splice CBT enclosure that should be able to take at least 12 connections (3 are used already). The double cable is probably the network feed loop coming from and going back to the overhead public cable. The yellow stripe cable is a single private connection to a building. It does mean it's more work for OpenReach to add an additional connection (since it is a splice enclosure, not pre-terminated), but should have capacity to add additional connections.

Oak frame kit, delivered and erected in 2 days. Finish at your leisure via trades or DIY!

The after shot. @Nickfromwales, your wish is my command regarding the waste pipe. Tomorrow's jobbie 🤣

To me, priceless 😀

Without an air gap there is zero reflection - if aluminium it just becomes a conductor.

That should be on a t-shirt!

I'm not sure if it's readily apparent how many spare connections might be available - even the Openreach guy who came to survey our site couldn't be sure. Not sure if it helps in your situation but here's what's happening with us: Although we already have fibre to the site, we want an additional fibre connection. I went through the living hell which is Openreach's online system and Indian call centre. Once I finally managed to register they came back to me and without any visits or other details, sent me a bill for £12k + vat. Once I'd returned from my quick circuit around the solar system, I called them and said I wasn't going to sign up for a £12k bill with no details, and that I wanted to speak with a field engineer and have them visit. After another round of inconclusive phone calls they finally explained that I could only have a field engineer allocated once I'd accepted their quote. The key thing to know - after accepting their quote you have 30 days to pay it. if you don't pay it then they cancel the whole process and you need to start again. That's your get out clause. (Stupid way to do it but we are dealing with Openreach/BT here, remember?) However, by accepting the quote you now have a field engineer you can talk to and who can visit the site. Mine was in touch within days and on site 2 days later (and couldn't have been more helpful). He agreed the whole system was stupid and has now gone in to bat on our behalf saying the £12k bill is stupid too. Still waiting for the final outcome but I have a lot more confidence in a positive outcome now that I'm actually speaking to someone who knows what they're doing.

That's all very helpful. My small first floor is designed to have acoustic insulation under it, but I also realise that will block some of the heat rising from the ground floor. I had, however, wondered whether it might be a good idea to add some sort of reflective layer between the Chipboard and the "egg crate" system, what do you think?

I have the same issue. Will have an attractive landing and steps – and a meandering path for weeding the flower beds to one side that doubles as the access ramp. I am required to meet Part M(2) so the landing needs to be 1.2m x 1.2m.

So there are 3 cables coming down the pole. 2 black flat ones and a round one with a yellow stripe. Does this picture make any more sense? This is a very rural area with only 5 houses along a 1 mile stretch. My step father's connection on the next pole along is up to 900mb so it would suggest there is bandwidth. I'm trying to establish if they simply counted the number of houses by each pole and allowed for that or whether they allowed for expansion. Do they run 1 fibre cable per house up to the pole or is all the data carried on 1 fibre channel up to the black box on the pole and distributed out from there? I'm trying to find out if it is worth pursuing because no service provider is going to do anything other than say what's on the screen in front of them.

It's not really about having the volume to satisfy flow requirements. The volume is to take the heat input from the heat pump and deliver it where it's needed. That's the beginning of working out your volume requirements. From a design perspective this is the start. Glad to hear chat gpt agrees on your design. The addition of a pipe temp sensor and valve with a pcb isn't really complicated at all because you've got to run all the cabling back to the Panasonic unit you've selected. By the time you've wired up another stat, zone valve, and a wiring centre, you might as well have just integrated it into the heat pump unit itself. This gives you more flexibility should you experience a control problem once it's up and running. Once you separate controls away from the heat pump, you're actually adding complexity plus additional control demands on you. You're potentially causing an additional rod for your own back. If the system design has been done correctly. I'm assuming someone sensible has done this and actually designed to ufh loops to room heat loads as opposed to provide a standard geometric exercise trying to fit pipes into the space to 150mm spacing, then simply running the whole system open on weather comp should be all you need. TBH, my alarm bells are ringing as you wouldn't believe the rubbish I see that's a result of a customer getting their builder and plumber to put in the UFH and then ask another person to install the heat pump. Usually they haven't got a clue on the UFH design or they farm it out to a UFH company that apply no sense to matching the design to the room demand. This is where you need to go back to before trying to figure out your control strategy. Are you having to put this in due to poor system sizing design in the first place? If so, then go with the manufacturer options because then you can move away from relay control to electronic mixers with separate curves to balance the heat across the manifolds if you need to, ideally controlled from the heat pump.