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You would be amazed / shocked at the shoddy installs by "double glazing" fitters. A lot of the surveyors would under measure the gap so the install flew in. No chasing out etc. Ours got put in with damn great perimeter gaps that weren't foamed or expanding taped. They simply super glued trim over the gap and siliconed. Gradually redoing mine. Where the window is in situ I use Illbrück FM330 expanding foam. Trim removed and gap visible: Finger size gaps: Note no cavity closer either: Lots of little things you can do and it all adds up.

So basically all the gaps you see need to be filled. I would look to use a good expanding foam. Some of the vertical filler pieces of PIR, don't look to butt up against the OSB roof cover. All PIR needs to be hard up against that.

Can I ask you about your roof windows? Make, uW value, and how much they cost?

Is this clear sheet? How about clear 'Sticks like sh*t'? In my experience it sticks ... jolly well.

Welcome to the forum. There are quite a few of us building our home for later years. you sound like you have a lot of building experience to pass on.

Have you bought a digger yet.

What’s holding up the top plates over that large opening, there’s not much of a lintel on show unless they have something on the outside.

CT1 rough the surfaces up with some sand paper. or stick a flash and patch over the holes bit bodgy but it will get you out of trouble.

I think that’s what I mean, told you I was thick. all fitted by the sparky. along with the other dozen in the house.

Did you get a good deal on the ply? They must more of less give it away when removing hoarding on big sites?

I'd be using the semi rigid rock wool batters between the joists. Rigid enough could you push them between the joists and they should hold, until you screw some wood in, but flexible enough to take up the varying sizes of the joist spacing.

Responded!

I fired two main contractors and ultimately took it over. It's not that big a deal. Check in with BC to see where they are at and what stage they next want to inspect.

Do you get the previous PC to sign off for the work up to that point? If I brought in another PC, and they were expected by Bldg Ctrl to sign at the completion, they would surely not be expected to sign for the earlier stages of work? (or if they are, how would this be managed? have you had to do this, or seen it done?)

Thats it. Yes.

After a full on week of getting the following jobs done. We’ve finally moved in. Given we have to hand the keys back to the rental on Monday, it’s been cutting it fine. 1) caravan foul drainage connected to the sewage treatment plant 2) water supply to shed for washing machine 3) installing Starlink. This was very easy 4). Fitting a skirt to the static from salvaged 18mm shuttering ply 5). Making some steps. So glad I never burnt the pallets. They are perfect. I won’t miss the hours drive each way and my commute to London is now 45 mins instead of 90 mins, plus our daughter is moving into her first home shortly and she’ll be 7 minutes away. A new chapter has begun 😃 ps - site currently resembles the Somme

https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/feed-in-tariffs-fit-scheme-indexation-changes/changes-to-inflation-indexation-in-the-feed-in-tariffs-fit-scheme-consultation-document-html

My 1960's dormer bungalow is also incredibly cold in the winter which is worse when the wind is blowing Having recently removed the skirting in all the ground floor rooms, I found gaps you could fit your hand in, straight into the ventilated sub floor The sub floor timbers were in perfect condition! I would check your rooms for air leakage points, as I imagine, like mine , some of your heated air is being drawn through the house and into the sub floor Beyond that, but more intrusive, is insulating below the floorboards as others have mentioned

It's is actually buried in here

Just joined - have already found lots to interest me. We are about to start building our final home to see us out. If you don't want a flat or small house with tiny rooms when you get old, the UK housing market has nothing for you so clearly self build is the (only) way. It will be our first as well as last, but we're not entirely new to the game. I've done major refurbs of houses in my spare time for all of my adult life. The last one had a false start in 2012 when we found more issues than we'd planned for and were in a caravan on site from Feb 2013 to May 2014. The unexpected issues story repeated throughout the refurb and we realised too late we would have been significantly better off bulldozing the original and starting again. We even had to dig up and replace the slab when otherwise half way through! Anyway, although others did "the build" to a water tight shell, and others did the plastering, laid the slabs and installed the GSHP... I did the rest. Heating, plumbing, electrics, tiling, bathrooms, kitchen, hung the doors, etc etc. When we moved back in in 2014 we had 4 rooms and I didn't finish the rest until 2016. Worked on the landscaping thereafter and still had little projects I wanted to do right up until we left a month ago. So I'm incredibly slow....but I do it how I like it. Hoping to follow a similar plan this time with others doing a timber frame Passivehaus for us and then to clad it, etc. before I can take over for fit out and services. We'll see. Not expecting it to be even remotely as easy as that sounds - energy levels approaching 70 are nowhere near the as good as they were in my 50s. We've already been on it for over 2 years just getting through the planning stages - how hopelessly depressing that process is! Anyway, hoping to learn much from the experience and expertise here...

Well as you asked so nicely @Alan Ambrose how about the 11th.....can't do this week as screed going down. Would still need torches if want a site visit as minimal lighting available!

Cant see anything

I've got a large shed roof with corrogated Corilux PVC sheeting that has a few holes and cracks that needs renewing. Not a chance of doing this until next Summer. so looking to patch it for now. Any ideas what might glue or bond to stick two pieces of Corolux together? I've tried PVC solvent glue, but that's no good.

As someone who had this exact issue, i looked at all the obvious options. The reality is, doing a decent job from the roof space is going to be near impossble. I concluded that the risks of air under the pir, and subsequent moisture issues that could develop, it was a non starter. So, my prefered method was as iceverge suggested, insulation over the plaster board inside and then reboard over and skim. In the end the situation resolved itself as i ended up re-roofing, so did it from the outside. Which is, probably the only way to do it right.

There was a thread on this the other day