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Indeed! Breaking this down a bit. If you are going to get a choke in the pipe then most common is someone putting the wrong thing down the bog. Your soil vent pipe (SVP) that runs up above roof eaves level needs a hand hole, say 300 mm above ground level. This lets you rod it from top down (while standing at ground level) in the direction of the flow. The rodding eye I marked at the end of the line let's you rod any blockage to the chamber at the top right corner of your drawing, you catch nasty stuff before it make its way down the gable wall. In terms of sinks / wash basins. If you take the main drain pop up just above the floor (110 dia pipe) and then connect the smaller diameter pipes into these then any blockage is usually as a result of a blockage in the sink traps for example. You can take the smaller diameter pipe up, into a tee piece with say a 40 mm rodding eye at the top of the tee. But that needs to be inside kitchen units. What about revising your drawing and asking BC? In some ways it looks like you are over complicating things, making the design harder and over spending.

We've turned the oil off for CH. Down to 150 gallons. Only using for HW now.

I'm not sure how it goes back down for a while unless Iran announces it's surrender (or that it will not hinder ships transiting the strait). It's going to be very hard for the US can defend the 100+ ships a day moving through. Even if the Americans packed up and went home tomorrow, what is the incentive for Iran to reopen the strait? Maybe they'd get a taste for being the troll under a vital bridge and start charging a toll - after all, what will the America's be able to do? Bomb them?

There are short, and long staples, so I'd get the longer ones as they don't want to pull out so easily. Used the short ones once, never agin.

Especially if you paid nearly $120/br for oil.

I would have thought that explicit time-limited state guarantees would be possible until a the private insurance market can restablish itself Regards Tet

A rotating cowl on a chimney is said to create a significant suction. The bearings are impressive as they spin for years except in exceptionally calm conditions. I've got one on a woodburner outlet, but mainly to limit downdraughts in gusts. It keeps most rain out too. How much suction I have no idea, and there is going to be some on an open flue anyway.

How quickly things can change!

Today I had a call from a mate who was going to install an oil boiler and now wants to talk heat pumps!

Time to plan the change 😀

Scottish heating oil doubled in cost over the last week or so. Was the cheapest, now the most expensive way to heat.

Texas petrol prices rose by about 10p a liter or 20% due to the supply shock caused by the recent stupidity. A state that produces over 5m barrels a day but consumes less than 3m in total (all fossil energy Inc coal) in c country that is the world's largest exporter of oil and gas... is still not insulated from a war on the other side of the planet interrupting oil supplies. So what chance does the UK have even if it could somehow increace oil production? Do you know what hasn't changed? The cost of producing a Mwh of electricity from wind and solar.

I came to same conclusion. Good enough for nearly all cases. If the pump can't cope or is close to not coping you will be installing an additional pump anyway, so keep.it easy.

If you are at planning stage and not warrant stage, just say ASHP, solar, MVHR? But the architect should be doing this form for you as part of the design and application process This form is nothing you should be paying for, until you get to warrant and then the information comes from as designed EPC.

Not just an energy statement. It’s imposing a condition that 20% of the CO2 target emission is from LZCT. From past experience it will never be checked.

Thinking a bit more about it. Air pressure is what is actually doing the driving, PV/T. Change any one if them, with volume being hard to change, and properties change. This can also be affected by the Venturi effect around the building, which even in a light breeze probably has a greater effect.

I’ve contacted a few companies today and prices of around £500 are coming in. quote from planning officer ‘’I am just reaching out at this time to ask if an Energy Statement could be submitted to supplement the plans, please? This is a requirement of all new buildings as per LDP2 Policy OP1, part f). I have attached the template for convenience if that could be filled in, and submitted in due course.” quote from architect “As you will read, he is looking for an Energy Statement in order to process the application further. The statement has to be provided by a registered assessor.” Dumfries and Galloway template that PO sent. It asks for assessors registration number. This indicates to me they want this information at the application stage now. Energy-Statement-template.docx

I thought it worked by buoyancy, so hot are at the top, which will be lower density, will stay at the top. Yes, it does work by buoyancy - but buoyancy is driven by temperature difference. Air warms, so expands, so becomes more buoyant than the surrounding air, so will rise if it can, with cooler air taking it's place: If the internal air is warmer than the external air (e.g. in winter), the internal air is more buoyant, so will rise if it can (to be replaced by cooler outside air); If the internal and external air temperatures are identical then both are equally buoyant, so there's no air movement; If the external air is warmer than the internal air (e.g. in a heatwave), the internal air is less buoyant, so will sink if it can (to be replaced by warmer outside air). (delayed reply - been away...)

So, unless you're close to a limit on your water pumps capability, the chart is accurate enough would be the conclusion?

That beam was put there for a purpose, however misguided. For some mysterious reason, it has not been removed. Why not? Because it is part of the structure? Because an SE said don't remove that beam? Because the developer hoped it would all sort out, but it clearly has not? Ask the vendor. Ask to see the building reg's submission or permission to talk to the bco.

@Pocster?

I just had a response from them: We do not offer the option to choose from a different type of material for the sheets used on the greenhouse. However, our 4-wall polycarbonate sheets have been treated with a UV stabilisation that will prevent panels from changing colour through sun exposure. Additionally, whilst our greenhouses are tested against wind and weather, they are purposefully not designed to be fully watertight to allow humidity to escape, which is another benefit as internal condensation can also be reason for the sheets to turn milky over time.

Yep, from monitoring i think this is just standard behaviour from modern boilers. Though as part of the test yesterday I did try setting the burner min output% to 45% (default is 14%). It did shave a few minutes off reaching 60c, but i think it also caused further problems with the boiler not being able to properly modulate down once it had hit/exceeded target temp. I need to confirm that today with another test, may've been a coincedence. Yes exactly, thats the behaviour i'd expect to see. If the system doesnt demand as much power as the boiler can give, ie if some of the TRV temps get hit and the radiators turn off, i'd expect the boiler to modulate down, not just carry on and overshoot the temp at 100% output. That just seems ignorant and primitive to me, I agree with you that this doesn't seem like its part of normal programming, this boiler doesnt have a return temp that i can monitor on the LCD, but it must have a sensor inside thats being checked to determine the modulation beyond the flow temp? From memory they have changed a couple sensors already but that was to try and fix the massive difference we had back when the HEX was screwed. Maybe theres more sensors on there that need to swap thats causing this? When i run it now with all the radiators fully on, ive got the target set at 68c, it will overshoot this by 4c, very occasionally it will overshoot it by more and turn the burner off. But that's more rare when all the radiators TRVS are on. When it doesn't trip off, as mentioned previously it will take as long as 30-45 mins to come back down to target. Modulating verrrry slowly as it goes. My own sensor is now 1C difference to the boiler LCD display. That's a good question, do you mean if i change it once the target temp has been reached and everything is stable? i'll give that a try. From memory i dont think it reacts at all to this. Before hex replacement i cant recall, I feel it was still overshooting back then.... it must've been as it was going quite high on the LCD display, why do you ask? do you suspect theres been a problem since they swapped the hex and thats causing the overshooting?

If the price is good compared to others then maybe worth buying on the basis that you might want to be replacing the polycarb at a later date. I'd guess the polycarb will last a while then all go at a similar time. Glass would get broken one at a time over a period of time requiring occasional replacement. Either way you are replacing bits.