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We have a 100mm blinding slab over 600mm hardcore, then a raft foundation. The blinding slab was to adhere gas/waterproof membrane onto. We are in heavy clay and have a basement.

Nightmare stuff. Seals it up. Makes it rot. Ideally, strip to bare wood, allow to dry then something like Bedec MSP. Sprayable too. No primer either. Best thing about it is over long periods it sort of erodes away, bit like lime wash does, (but lasts much longer) so no prep required when repainting. Lots of work now, easy life in future. Depends on the long term view?

Okay got it! so I’ve read it states must submit the application and drawings attest one week before commencing work. so if I submit the drawings and commence demolition this is ok? if there are any queries with drawings /calculations i presume they will be in touch ?

You need to submit your building regs drawings to your chosen building control company. They will check the plans and request any amendments.

I know that the last 3 treatments are dulux wearhershield, undercoat then top. No idea re the ancient history. I'm hoping to be lazy/ efficient/ economical and paing stripping it all won't be that. Maybe locally.

I wonder if someone who has used this firm could advise. Unfortunately I speak no German. There is a 'translate' tab, but it seems to disappear (with no obvious way of getting it to reappear) when I get near paying, so I don't know what to click on to pay... Thanks in anticipation of your help.

Have you got any good paint stripper in stock? Try it on a small area, then paint that bit with a good primer then appropriate outdoor paint. Nitromors would be my goto for paint stripper.

I have not appointed the private building regs company yet stage I’m at 1) planning appoved 2) building control and materials drawings submitted. 3) self build mortgage approved and conveyancing commenced./CIL liability form approved (self build) 4) demolition notice submitted 5) contractor appointed and confirmed start date. 6) contractor provided info for private building control firm 7) gas/electric firms contacted to disconnect connections am ready to break ground?

Id imagine theres some impervous stuff on that? Are you intending to paint over whats there? And what were you going to use?

Are the big boys still able to "get away with" not doing every house? A freind of mine built a small number of houses in shefifeld. They got the guy out to do the air tightness. His starting point was "what number do you want on the report". It took much persuasion to get him to actually do the job. Anyway, we all know what really went on.

That always assumes they keep those records. As i found out when in Buckinghamshire, Bucks council dont keep, or register, in any way, completed inspections by private BC's. And assuming of course you can even contact them. Again, not possible in Bucks. Other councils may vary of course.

I don't know how you would find who they are. Ask the BCO at the LA I suppose as they should have been informed.

As built airtightness test is required for b regs sign off. Go directly to the BCO and ask for the test results which ‘they must have had presented to them’….. Prob be a lot of squirming from anyone you approach, but I’d go directly to the BCO and start there.

Sorry (sheepish grin)

Your advice please. The photo is the worst bit, randomly in the middle of my spiel. I've painted this once personally, plus once by trusted workers and twice by professionals. It's a big area, perhaps 200m2, so I'm keen to avoid high cost. Some area are absolutely fine, being areas of replacement boards to a higher spec. It needs doing again. Last year's heat caused more flaking than normal and I chose to scrape those bits off and let the heat carry on getting at it. Then the winter has released more layers and areas. It has exposed some bare wood which will be either 10 or 90 years since first painted. Also sometimes a yellowish layer and sometimes a clearly dirty, unprepared surface. In other areas it all stays put. My hunch is that letting blisters come off has released tensions that had allowed the surface to cling on to the dirty layers for many decades. So today I have scraped more off and pressure washed it. I don't mind the indents where up to 10? Coats have been removed ("character"). Obv the manufacturers would like me to buy lots of expensive paint. But I'm wondering if the sheer thickness is an issue. So do you think I can spray paint it for speed and economy. 1 or 2 coats? Perhaps the raw wood needs a brush of primer. Where the timber is clearly cracked or eroded I guess it needs filling. First or after a coat of paint?

Of course a simple option is to take one or more sockets out and see if you can see what’s going on behind them.

>>> you may have chosen the wrong product. Possibly, I think that’s the only Ubbink choice for the flow I need. But … I’ve found elsewhere that the Ubbink range doesn’t appear to have had a lot of thought behind it. Will see if I can cobble together a hack.

Full details in this BuildHub thread. Thanks Jack

You have in effect contracted out of using the Local Authority building control service so they will not be issuing any documentation other than to confirm the Initial Notice from your appointed building control provider is satisfactory. That is a simple administrative process and has no reference to the design. Your chosen private company will confirm their satisfaction with building control matters, probably directly to your architect if they submitted the scheme.

Under the old system the LA had a year to take enforcement action unless they applied for a High Court injunction. In all my years at an LA I'd never heard of that being done. It certainly is not going to happen for a 20 year old garage conversion I can tell you!

Looks like a great project! Slab in Jan and frame erection in Feb is a good progress. Do you know if MBC start manufacturing the frame before the slab is done (rather than waiting to measure it)?

If you've got breeze coming from your sockets, it's very likely they punctured the membrane while installing the electrics - it happens a lot because the contractors simply don't understand airtightness.

The EPC should give the air pressure test result - either ‘as measured’ in this house or based on site average value.

Was there anything in your purchase 'stuff' which states an air-tightness test result. If not, ask the developer what is was. It may cost around £400 to get a basic A/T test which will give you a 'number' (in m3/m2/hr or air-changes per hour), or a fair bit more to get A/T and thermography at the same time. De-pressurise the house with the fan on a day when you can get a +10 degree C diff between inside and outside temp, and you get an IR 'pic' of the leaks. If the discrepancy between the developer's stated no. and yours is significant, ask awkward Qs.

Inside or outside the frame?