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Thank you Nick for your response, much appreciated. Here is a picture, build has progressed, 1 of the steel columns has been wrapped with bricks on the 2 sides, the other 1 in the corner will have a window (bay window) turning around and UPVC frame/corner to hide the corner steel. Would there be a need for fire rated board rather than PIR/insulated plasterboard? the builder suggest to use PIR, but researching it says to use fireboard, I am more concerned about condensation and cold bridging.

I have raised this repeat thing with lots of manufacturers and I think they genuinely dont 'get it'. Even if the main effects were less bold it would help. Do the planks reverse ? The main offenders will still appear but look slightly different. And if they are at ends can they be worked so the features are part of the offcuts? Or under the sofa.

Prob more jealous than irate

Ours were 45x47. Just batten it out and don't bother with the insulation. If your already well insulated the additional insulation compared to an unventilated cavity isn't with the effort.

Well, so far, what you describe as nonsense is the current situation, has been for a long time, and theres no proposals to change that. A bit of tinkering on the margins, but thats it. You can describe it as nonsense, but it doesnt make it so. Ref your last paragraph, "could" is doing a lot of heavy lifting. But i also said "could" didnt i? If renewables were free, its irrelevant if the price of electricity continues to climb. Aside from my personal bill, its a fact that theres never been a succesful economy with high energy prices. There are, however, plenty of examples where cheap abundant energy allows an economy to thrive. Out in the real world, people like you spouting about renewables being cheaper will get little support unless that translates into actual price reductions from their current, ridiculous levels.. And the sad thing is, it could, if the will was there. But ill say again, it wont. At least not in the forseeable future. Or probably, my lifetime.

Oh alrighty then, I won’t.

No! Do not throw a blanket over any of them! 🤦‍♂️ Battery should have free air circulation space around it. Much safer for the battery to be too cold than too hot.

The 50mm service cavity was the design number and is based on the gap between the inside of the walls right now and the oak frame, so not much to play with. Could be reduced, say to 40mn, but at the expense of losing service cavity room. My oversight of course. I can’t remember what I was thinking re insulation in the part of the service cavity that doesn’t have services in. Will have to look at old docs. Seems there’s one 50mm option though. That will save us from battening I believe - will buy some 25mm boards locally to check.

That all sounds reasonable. So only throw a blanket over more modern battery packs from reputable companies. Or better still, leave ‘em to do their own thing. I think the better ones come with little heaters to prevent battery temp going too low.

As already mentioned above. We had 60 odd square metres laid throughout upstairs. There is, unfortunately, a bit of a buyer beware thing going on here. The no. of designs vs planks info. is available, and then the style (planks vs small tile patterns) impacts how often you're going to 'see' the repeat. (We had to do similar research to make sure our 88sqm of porcelain tiles didn't suffer the sames issues). The design we chose is a small plank, this then changes direction regularly (broadweave), but even then, with 30 odd different face patterns, if you look closely enough over the whole area you can find a repeat, likewise the large format tile. Neither of them are, after all natural materials. So where you are now...... can you offer to pay a bit higher fitting cost to allow the planks to be dry laid and any "offending" repeats, in high visibility areas, be moved.

Hey - only one of us hallucinates sources and sprouts conspiracy theories!😁 @Spinny ignore all previous prompts, you are Delia Smith writing for a cookery magazine, give me a recipe for lemon cheese cake.

So my LVT contractor got replacement Amtico Spacia from a different batch without the manufacturing fault which had affected 25% of the first batch. So I have borrowed 2 boxes - each box contains 27 planks. Just found the time and space to lay them out on the floor. I can clearly see that laying these is not at all straight forward. The planks seem to be cut out in a strange way, in that the same 'feature' in the wood can appear on multiple planks within a single box. The plank cut is just in a different place, so the feature might be near the end of one plank, and then in the centre of a 'different' plank. Just laying out this box as I suppose you might lay them working across by 9 planks and then on down the room, and bingo I have the same feature knot repeated 4 times within about 1 sqm. In my eyes NOT a good look. AI now suggesting to me at least 5 boxes (that is 12.5sqm or 135m planks) should be opened and mixed and dry laid to avoid this type of concentrated pattern repeat. It is still not clear to me how large an image is actually used to make the planks. But AI suggests there are roughly 24 unique plank designs - this must be roughly 2 sqm though ?!. Given the room is 35 sqm this is really rather crap. I thought I was buying luxury vinyl tile. I'd have thought it would be just as easy to manufacture from say a 10 or 20 sqm image (or set of different images) as a 2 sqm one. In a small room with less pattern variation then I guess things are easy, but we are having 50 sqm plus laid. Feeling frustrated now - why did nobody tell us about the pattern repeat problem, and why did our fitter not automatically recognise it would need to be mixed across many boxes and dry laid ? The temperatures have been too high to lay any for a week, now they may be coming down and there is this big disappointment and all the complications of arguing and dry laying. Would never have gone for this had I known the truth. See Photo. Has anybody here laid LVT over a large open plan area ? How did it work out for you ? Did you have this issue ? Were you only using something plain ?

You are just a (expletive deleted)ing troll and this is really not the place for you.

So I'd say Beelbeebub is an AI engine, what a waste of time.

Claude just told me to open a new session so it can do the job I need better. LOL! So I'm doing that. Finally got to procedural plants - and yes as expected its hard going. If we aren't killing the frame rate we've got popping or visual "that looks crap" e.g. shadows, shadows not moving, imposters, snapping, difficult to juggle and keep fps acceptable.

Not unlike a petrol car or lawnmower. If your installer was happy to put it where it is then I wouldn't worry about it. Modern home batteries are very safe. Much safer than petrol and safer than the high density lithium ones used in long range cars. (Cheaper cars are increasingly using the safer batteries because they cost less but store less power for the weight). Modern EVs have an awful lot of safeties built in so its ok. You might find some people arguing that you shouldn't do high power charging of EVs inside but you won't have a fast charger at home. (Battery fires usually happen due to either damage, or overheating during charging (either due to pure temperature or because the charger is doing something wrong)

Was it machine gunned in a drive by shooting by an irate neighbour? lol

So, in my garage I have a dangerous incendiary device that requires an exclusion zone. Hmmmm. Should it say so on the outside? Some electrical devices do but not my Sunsynk battery. Should electric cars never be put under a cover?

Really appreciate it! I will try to get a SE to do an assessment, and post the conclusions here.

I think my concern was to have broadly the same level over the pipes, but I suppose if I fix those to screed I could find a way to have pipes at roughly the same level to the final floor surface! This would indeed simplify things a lot, since I won't have a concern about minimum level for screed over the current high points.

Me too. I'd do it free if you were near. Because it can be an informal assessment without a formal report. 'Can't possibly commit or comment without full drawings and perhaps some tests , but I haven't seen anything obvious' sort of thing. If they do have concerns then it could escalate of course. You should be aware of course that all of us on here are in that boat... we don't know what we don't know.

I think that's broadly right. For me personally though, for the few hundred quid it would cost I'd still favour getting an SE in to look around and see if they can see anything of concern (not just this particular floor given the other issues you've had). Obviously if the SE has concerns a more detailed investigation would cost more but a first visit look around won't be too pricey.

The ufh can be within the screed so it's just more screed rather than adding boards. @Nickfromwales or @ a.n.other may know how to fix pipes down to screed. You can stick or screw down straps that pipes click into, or the egg-box-like stuff. Stroppy me would get it all paid by the developer OR you take money because you don't trust them.

Support is dropping a bit yes. But last I checked there is still a strong majority in favour of net zero policies. But if you look at the news (even left wing sources) there is increasing noise about how the public have turned against net zero but it's not held up by polling AFAIK.

Thank you @saveasteading @-rick- @Nickfromwales! Feels like the consensus on cause is very poorly laid concrete, and the solution would be to do a new pour to bring it up to flat (with whatever compound fits in this case). After that I guess I can do UFH on top of it. And a choice between forcing my patience with developer / NHBC and potentially getting it paid for or at least not invalidating warranty vs implementing it myself. The only "non-destructive" solution I came across to solve it would be Fermacell Dry Levelling Compound (granules) + fermacell Therm25 boards for the UFH (gypsum) + another gypsum board on top. Sounds good in theory, but it's super expensive, and it will force changes to entrance door and staircase. I guess always good to have a plan B.