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Mortice is the minimum. Modern euro cylinder locks (assuming you get the right spec) are considered superior (and accepted by insurers in all locations AFAIK) especially if it's installed in a multipoint lock. I would always prefer the eurocylinder as they are easy to change if you ever need to change the keys. Can be keyed alike all round the house and if you want to get really fancy you can get a master keyed set with grouped or independent locks for the doors (allowing you to give some people limited access and others full access). Obviously the more sophisticated setups are more for commercial use but there are uses at home and you can order sets online for not huge money.

Insurers generally want a 5 lever mortice. So as long as you dont leave it within reach through letter box or broken window, they wont be able to use it. I like to have a 'yale' too just for night time security and ease, but use the mortice when going out.

I clicked 'send' too early and have now said much more. I don't trust them to use a meter properly.

They should be using a floor moisture tester.

If it's an issue you could always get a letter box that contains the post (prevents access to the turn cylinder). Will stop stuff dropping on the floor as well which saves bending down to get it. These have downsides too so depends on your circumstances whether it works for you but is an option.

Inside turn for us. Can't be bothered fiddling with a key to lock doors from inside. (if I had to the key would remain in the lock) If the weakest link to entry is breaking a triple glazed glass unit, you are not doing bad.

Based on the parts I have (2no. 22F x 3/4M full bore valves and 1no. 22F x 22F isolation valve) the best would be a 22M x 22M x 22M tee. In other words, a tee with all connections as plain 22mm pipe. I know I could make such a thing using a conventional tee and soldering, but it would be nice if there was a premade one since each connection made has a chance of failure.

I'm just sharing today's annoyance. Perhaps it will help someone else. We will be using engineered timber over a large area and have it in storage because it was a bargain. We recently got a reference to a contractor to lay it. The price was ok so we said go. Now they are saying that we need to prove that the screed is dry enough. It is, and will be beyond dry come September when it is to be done. Even when we use the ludicrously conservative 1mm/ day we have double that time since it was laid, and the wind has been whistling through at 25 to 30 C. Having told them that, they now say (without reference) that it must be 19C all the time and actually 0.5mm/ day is correct. Even that means that it is dry. So they are either charlatans, or ignorant. From long experience I know floorers always try this because they want to sell an upgrade of sealing and even over-screeding, and/or lose any liability in case of any future problem. so 1. we explain why it is dry. Very civilly quoting the material used and the time it's been down. 2. we then emphasise that their sudden doubling of the time required isn't relevant. 3. Now they say that if they turn up and test the screed in September and it isn't to their dryness satisfaction then they will refuse to do it and charge £500 aborted visit. I'm thinking this is perhaps all they do... turn up, charge £500 and go away. It would appear that they are used to getting this extra pay, and are somewhat annoyed that we are daring to answer back. Obv I don't trust them at all and would like to tell them to go cheat elsewhere. But maybe they are just ignorant. They only do one thing, so they should not be ignorant and thus I suspect the other option. If you cheat in one way, you are cheats generally, so who knows if they are any good. That they were recommended by a well known supplier bothers me. Maybe it's all too easy for them. In the past I've presumably convinced the floorers that there is no issue and just to get on with it. I may have signed papers to that effect. But this is on a different level. It's about 250m2 of flooring , so a nice job for someone.

How usefull are these tools? Not sure whether i need one( would only be getting a cheaper end makita one)

Hi All, I hope you are well. I am thinking about replacing the locks and have a big dilemma regarding what kind of cylinder to go for. I think for the front and back doors key & turn cylinder makes more sense however is this secure considering that someone clever could turn it through the letter hole? Also for a clear glass back doors if burglars manage to break in by smashing the glass turn cylinder would make their life easier as then they can open the doors from the inside without a key. What do you think?

That is a lovely tip and one I would never have thought of - Thanks for sharing New Kitchen being delivered in Oct so very useful and timely

Yes Spinny, that is all in place and nothing overhanging or over looking windows. Pro Dave, the owners are in their late 80’s and we think that at the moment they are just going to leave it!!! The issue then I suppose will pass to the next owners but it will be un unmortgageable so will potentially massively reduce its sale value…… might but it myself should this be the case 😂

the jagged one following the mortar. ie not what is prob F That is a common effect. In your case i'm thinking that the wall to the left has moved by these few mm. If that has been there for years then it prob just needs repointing. If new then it could be this recent drought causing sinking. could we see that wall from further back? Damp at chimneys is very common. Rain can come down the chimney if there is no cap. Or can creep through from the brick of the chimney itself. Is it just staining or can you se dampness?

The second floor UFH will ensure the come water get warm in winter also

Oh yes and the amazing cube marched clouds. VERY expensive! need to optimise again soon !. Lit!, can have a nice storm with them! Which means a detour (as usual) to .... lightening!!!

If you don't really need to bury l wouldn't - would surface run, then you can see them.

Not a plumber but I suspect there are water quality/plumbing standards that require water to be kept below a certain temperature. Not necessarily specifying how that is achieved.

Would it be possible to cool the accumulator in any way?

I don't think there are any regs for insulating cold water pipes in domestic dwelling. I've certainly seen plenty of un insulated pipes in my time. Are you looking to claim from the plumber? I don't think they problem is avoidable if you have a tank in the house at room temperature regardless what you do with the pipes.

From the photos I cannot see any cracking or damp that would raise any concerns.

Taken all day to get right ; Claude wants to quit many times! Heavy rain actually runs down slopes! Looks fantastic. I dont think even the might Unreal Engine does this.

Keep it simple. Ask a couple of well - regarded local firms to come and 'have-a-look-at-the job'. No exploratory work ( as in "Well to answer your question, we'll need to take this out and that down and fiddle with this" ) . Listen hard to what the people say. You'll learn a good deal from those conversations. Then get back to us and we'll make it all much more complicated than it needs to be. 🤔

Does anyone have a reference for the depth that DC cable needs to be buried - I assume the same as armoured AC (0.5m in general) but wanted to double check. I was going to use the specific armoured stuff

The wall on the left in picture e2 is the chimney breast, the wall on the right is a hollow wall. The mortar is dug out is almost attached to the chimney. There use to be an upstairs smell of smoke before we had the main chimney lined, im wondering if this could be due to that?

I don't think that is correct. 40x wire size is what is expected. I have never been asked to do 600mm. How would the 1200 x 2400 sheets ever work?