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  2. Nickfromwales
    Go for a mist system. Speak to the council and they're usually amenable, and will provide a solution for the bins.
  3. BotusBuild
    John, the current setup works. We are comfortable the way the loops are and by adjusting flows to each. I am only interested in whether I can remove or bypass the buffer tank and rely on the heating pump in the outdoor unit to continue to make the water flow through the UFH.
  4. BotusBuild
    @SimonD, is there anything else you are seeking information about? A bit more below. FYI the heat pump is about 3m from the plant room (LGF where the manifold is), connected by 28mm insulated pipework. The UVC (250l) is in the plant room. Motorised valve switches between heating and DHW. Heating flow goes to the buffer tank (50l), then a pump on the flow to the two manifolds. These have no mixing valves or secondary pumps. All heating pipework is 28mm copper in the plant room, all insulated. About 10m of this on flow and return to furthest (UGF) manifold
  5. flanagaj
    £280 per man
  6. Today
  7. JohnMo
    I could have asked, but you posted an image that stated 1/2", so would have been a wasted question. But as your using 16mm, all is good. But your loops are really only designed to fit the space, not to match the room heat loss. The loops per room, should be matched to heat loss. Balancing is possible with manipulation of flow rates through each loop, but there is a limited effect, if your circulation pump modulates.
  8. dave1967
    Thanks Nick. Builder thinks we need to put some footings in .
  9. BotusBuild
    I know you are trying to be helpful on here. There are perhaps better ways of wording some of things you post. e.g. you could have asked what pipe size I used, and sought a better explanation for the pipe layout (which equally I could have provided a better explanation for up front)
  10. JohnMo
    Never meant to be aggressive.
  11. BotusBuild
    Sometimes you comments come across a bit passive aggressive. UGF. Open plan to the left. Large single room to the right. A hall where the small blue loop is shown (but not fitted). A utility and cloakroom where the small read loop is shown (but not fitted). LGF. On the left each loop is a separate room. The 2 large loops to the right are a single room. All pipes are 16mm. No loop longer than 95m as laid.
  12. Dillsue
    Might be easiest to suck it and see by bypassing the accumulator with the flow pipe and replacing the scondary pump with a straight section of pipe. Avoid sharp bends/elbows in the accumulator bypass!
  13. JohnMo
    All I can say is they are pretty pictures. But unless both spaces are fully open plan, there is zero design work going on. Pipe sizes is questionable. 1/2" pipe isn't really suitable, you should be using 16mm. Your loop length can be around 100m, so the smaller loops can be deleted and incorporated into other loops if you wanted. For info I am doing 7 loops in total for the same heat load.
  14. Space Race
    Lost track of websites visited, videos watched. Glad I asked here
  15. DownSouth
    It’d be brighter with windows on 3 aspects wouldn’t it?
  16. Big Jimbo
    As @Mr Punter said
  17. Space Race
    I was thinking the (vertical) frame timbers would be fairly snug up to each side of the window but actually they could stand clear. Then my vertical battens would be spaced as you show. Thanks!
  18. BotusBuild
    Two storey building. Outdoor unit is level with the upper floor. We have UFH on both floors. Lower floor has 7 loops to a manifold. Upper floor has 7 loops to a manifold (in the UGF file attached, the small red loop and the small blue loop to the upper right were left out).
  19. sharpener
    This may help https://johncantor.uk/pressure+flow/simulator.html
  20. Space Race
    How small was the gap?
  21. Oz07
    I have actually but decided against it. What's the benefit?
  22. Mr Punter
    Normally you will leave the battens short of the window opening so the air can flow round. Like this:
  23. Russell griffiths
    I used the aluminium vent strip the 25x50 strip with all the holes in, this is finished on top of the cladding with a small gap between this and the overhanging window cill.
  24. SimonD
    This is critical. Your index circuit basically means the sum of the sections of your heating system that adds up to the greatest pressure loss. For every meter that your heating water flows through a pipe is loses pressure. To know whether the pump can deal with this, we need to know the maximum pressure it has to overcome and at what flow rate. If you look at your specification chart, you have a max flow rate of 1205l/h and at this flow rate, if you look at your chart, it gives a residual head of just over 4m head. To know if the pump will be okay with this, you need to know if the circuit that has the greatest pressure loss is less than 4m head. Do you have a circuit diagram or do you know how your heating system is plumbed?
  25. Cheesus
    Thanks, I suppose we could look into this further but it seems like hassle when a sprinkler system will add a bit of piece of mind should the worst happen. The bin issue is the fly in the ointment for us unfortunately.
  26. MikeGrahamT21
    I also considered membrane, but decided against it, as it would have been near on impossible to install and get good enough to say its a proper membrane. Instead I opted to put rigid PUR boards between the joists with a foil membrane on the warm side, just to temper any moisture passing, and then topped this with further wool, and used loft legs. Loft is cold, as i live in a bungalow too, and can't say there has been any issues, been installed for a good few years now. I did cock up while taking the photos, probably as i was absolutely nackered doing it, and forgot to take a photo showing the semi rigid pipes, it went on top of the PUR, under the wool, ideally would go against plasterboard, but never going to happen when you are going across the joists, so may as well be straight. I never did do the part 1 of that, not sure i even had any photos of it! 🤣
  27. Nickfromwales
    100mm is fine, as long as what it's on is not crumbling etc.
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