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My last place was built to those u values with good airtightness (less than 1 I think on the normal test) and mvhr and I wouldn't of thought it was anywhere close to passiv. I remember doing at energy used per sqm thread on here years ago at the time.

One of these fits, would that be the right type of fitting to use?

slowly getting dizzy from going round the bend... Seem to have an array of fittings except the one i need grrr! What do i need to attach to a copper pipe to allow this to connect please? I can solder, but compression, or push would do me equally as well. Got some lovely Hep20 tails, but the connector doesn’t fit my bath mixer controller. Thin hep is 10mm and the mixer is 8mm. Ta.

Well we're finding it hugely expensive so I'm not surprised its not viable commercially. Our passive house is going to cost way more to build than it will be worth on the market thereafter. Latest example: We have an integral garage. Garage outside the passiv envelope, hallway inside. Door from garage to hall very nearly impossible to source. You can buy any number of FD30 rated fire doors for a few hundred quid as required by BC in that location. You can buy quite a few doors adequately rated for thermal efficiency and airtightness and they cost low thousands. But try to find a door that covers both angles and that's a tad harder. After a 6 month search I've found two companies who will make me one. One for £7k the other £8k. That's a lot of money for one internal door!

0.18 is the regs Depending on the house I've read that 0.15 might be all thats needed to meet passivhaus (there isn't a specific number as passivhaus is more about the overall heat loss which is affected by windows, air tightness, etc) It's not much difference in the quantity of insulation (another 50mm)?. The detailing is stricter and really once you are in this range air tightness matters much more. If you focus on that you need less insulation.

I'm not sure about that. The u values above are surely not going to be anywhere close to passiv? I get what you are saying though the regs have come on a lot in the last 20 yrs. I think they are at about the right level now for mass market homes. Keeping in mind end users. There is nothing against individual builders going the extra mile if they want to, or if they think it will help increase value (doubtful)

Indeed, standards are getting tougher which should in time lead to better quality (for any project) but lack of labour availability makes things difficult whatever you are doing. The good contractors generally know what they are worth given availability.

Yes always gonna be more expensive for one offs. Then again I suppose there is the flip side where clever folk like yourself can work out all these interactions themselves. The AI was saying we do not have enough highly skilled trades to complete enough houses. Sloppy bricklayers with insulation, rough joiners or not enough engineers familiar with heat pumps. I can believe it.

Self build pays for that each time, as they are generally one offs. A developer should only pay once for multiple houses.

With the current building regs, meeting passivhaus standards isn't that much of a leap (assuming you are building with quality/well finished detail in mind). It used to be our regs were way way weaker and now they are not. The cost of building houses has gone up a lot also and the added cost of insulation, better windows, etc, becomes a smaller part of the overall budget. I can see the cost of doing the paperwork/documentation to get certified as potentially being the main additional cost of going passivhaus with some (more optimal*) designs. * ie, the existing design for the house is a relatively energy efficient shape, with reasonable glazing (heat loss and heat gain perspectives), already has MVHR planned, etc.

What a great idea. I do like this, especially from a future owner / maintenance perspective. I suspect in the UK it would really sift out the good from the bad (would never be taken up as policy though).

Seems that institution is a trade body. Its basically propaganda that article. Interestingly the changes don't seem too extreme to me. U value targets are similar. Airtightness is ok don't think I've ever been over 3. It does appear to be more aggro so hopefully I can get planning and b regs sorted before March. Wonder how these changes will effect the housebuilding targets.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cg5l3z7p922o Just reading this article they claim building to passiv standard is 5% extra for houses (semi) and 2% (flats). I wonder why they don't include detached. 2 and 5% seem unbelievable to me. Perhaps detached is a lot higher? Don't forget all the boffin work that goes into designing these houses and understanding how all the different elements will interact. They talk of the new future homes standard next March. I will ask AI what the implications will be.

Welcome and good luck with everything you are doing.

I guess 440W is pretty useful near the Med, but not so great here, in winter certainly. It surprised me that there were 4 panels, so maybe that's old tech. Leroy is not the place for great value, but we'll know it is mainstream when the supermarkets sell them. I'm not comfortable buying that sort of thing on Ebay.

Hi all i need to do a percolation test to satisfy building control my soakaway design is large enough. my inlet pipe is going to be approx 800mm below ground level (image attached) so if I dig 1000 deep and 0.30mm x 0.30mm and measure the rate of drainage from 750mm down to 250mm just checking I have the calculation correct so hypothetically it takes 120 seconds to drain Calc for VP value will be 120\500mm =50 and repeat 3 times per trial hole?

now every blade of grass casts a shadow!. Mike (the robot) was happy in his tranquil world. But some mofo has now given him a gun.....

Easy to find 930W for £499 on eBay. No link as I've no idea if they're UK approved. I'm sure there'll be plenty of questionable offerings at low prices soon enough

Clauding….. lol

I think I recall that you're in Scotland and my 'research' suggested DCV are required by regulations in Scotland, but not in England. I am attempting to make the lowest sacrifice (in terms of flow rate) alternative out of single check valves. That's why there is a single check valve on each branch thus making a pair of check valves between branch and main. The intermediate drain allows verification testing. The outside tap drain allows air in to drain the pipe through the wall. Without that drain, the water would just stay in the pipe. Garage will have a hose on for washing the car with softened water. Drinking is just going to the kitchen. It's OK to drink softened water as far as I understand so not the end of the world if someone drinks water from a bathroom tap.

Welcome to build hub, threads very often find a tangential direction

Should be this order, stop cock, then immediately after a double check valve. Then you can tee to hard and soft water routes Hard water add isolation valve, drain cock, tee to house drinking water (no check needed), outside tapp needs a double check - but outside tap, you have a tee and a drain, the drain will not do anything the tap doesn't do already when you open it, so delete the drain and make tee and elbow. Use Tectite push fit for elbows or solder. Garage if it also connects to hose pipe etc, you need a double-check, if it's going to say a washing machine it doesn't need a check valve. Drinking is that just going to the kitchen?

I fear this thread may have somewhat digressed 🤣

That's probably about the wholesale cost, so a developer might get that and include one in every new house. Have now had a look at Leroy Merlin, the B and Q of France and Spain. E449 incl vat. and that seems to be complete 440Wp. https://www.leroymerlin.es/productos/kit-solar-enchufable-lexman-4-paneles-flexibles-440w-para-balcon-pared-91827489.html

Our box was remote and designed to be half buried in soil. It was quiet if more than a metre away.