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I agree with @Russell griffiths that this extra layer is just reducing surface contact with the pipes. Your vapour membrane is enough of a slip layer, allowing the screed and pipes to expand slightly together. An extra layer sounds like it'll do more harm than good, it's not the screed will then slide separately over the top of the pipes, so what can it achieve? How large is the area? You won't even get 0.5m2 per bag at that depth so will have your work cut out mixing quickly enough to ensure it ends up as a contiguous slab. Buy more than you need as you don't want to run out. Have you enquired with liquid screed companies? Some can be poured very thin and will give you a guaranteed result.

About a year ago we replaced our lead water pipe with a new 32mm MDPE connection. This resulted in the flow through our outside tap being good at 37 l/m - tap connected off the internal 22mm mains copper pipe using 15mm copper pipe. Since then the piping to the tap was changed as a temporary measure to plastic with various connectors. It now has 5 right angle elbows on the temporary pipe run (see pic). When I measure the water flow it is now 27 l/m - a 27% flow reduction. I therefore conclude that each elbow is reducing flow by about 2 l/m. My plumber has already fitted one 90 degree press fit elbow on another pipe run and the flow there seems lower than other internal taps. I presume I need to tell my plumber to stop using 90 elbows and to use only swept bends if I want to maximise flow ?

Thanks for response John. Yes this is the first creaking/groaning problem. Did the plumber de pressurise the UVC ? Not sure. I think the water was turned off at one point though, so perhaps. The UVC is Gledhill Stainless ES 250L, the expansion vessel is a Zilmet, nominal volume 22. The plumber's colleague has since returned. Said the noises were because of some kind of flutter/oscillation from the pressure reduction valve. He let some air out of the expansion vessel to reduce the pressure in it somewhat - didn't have a pressure meter - so not sure of expansion vessel pressure now. This has stopped the loud creaking/groaning noises whenever we ran the hot water. The system has had release through the tun dish on a regular basis over 3 months or so, relieved by running off hot water through the taps when spotted. The plumber is proposing to replace the pressure reduction valve (currently a Caleffi) with a new 28mm pressure reduction valve, having suggested this may help improve flow through the system. Mains pressure is about 3.5 bar.

If thats the case, then it would certainly explain the standard of work. Question then is, how did we arrive at a postion where one group of people working on houses can self certify, but others, including the major house builders cant. Has the distinct whiff of corruption. Either way, the results merely prove self certification doesnt work. Mind you, nor does building control!

2x filters, and paying for someone to it if you can't.

What is this building going to be used for ? why not insulate it from underneath ? you are going to end up with some fairly hefty looking facia and barge boards.

What’s the slip membrane for do you not need the SLC to find its way all around the ufh pipes for good heat transfer, with no big voids.

Yes was hoping to install the stairs myself.... Yes, stud walls are full height and already in place because they are structural racking. Only the stub wall is not structural. I suspect that one at least will have to come out. I'm reassured that I haven't missed something obvious!

Is this the first "creaking" problem? Did your plumber de pressurise the UVC before repressurising the EV? What make of UVC? What are the capacities of both the UVC and the EV?, should be labeled on both.

The units are very expensive for what they are aren't they? I'd be trying to keep it to 1.

Prototype flashing for the tube entry:

Am a DIY novice. Haven't done any wall chasing before. Am considering putting my TV cable into a wall chase - purely for reasons of aesthetics. Internal masonry wall, I think it's 12 - 13 cm in thickness. Am considering doing a horizontal wall chase, will need to be about two feet in length, probably 1.5 - 2 cm depth (to accommodate conduit). What should I use to "close" the wall chase? I've done a little bit of plastering before, using Easifill 60 - will that be appropriate? Or should I use something else? Bear in mind the chase should ideally be fairly straightforward to 're-open' if something goes wrong with the cable. If the cable is in a conduit, does that reduce fire risks? I'm no expert at all, but at a glance, the wall looks okay, no cracks or anything (bought the house recently, it was probably built sometime in the '60's). Intend to get a scanner to check for wiring, etc. Anything else I should look for to evaluate the "health" of the wall? Is there a risk of a horizontal wall chase affecting the structural integrity/strength of the wall? Would it be a problem if either end of the wall chase was left relatively "wide open" - openings 3 - 5 cm in length? Would that increase the risk of damp/mould, etc.? Do "curved" or "diagonal" chases cause more serious structural problems than a horizontal chase?

If you put a 110mm elbow on your roof, I'll come down there and multi-tool it back off. Just "NO!". It'll be fugly as feck.

You could use 2 layers of CF200x50mm thick, either side, bridging both internal and external blocks, which would also close the cavity whilst giving you something solid to fix into. Way overkill but if you want a good standard then that's easy and robust (but not cheap). Other option is to close with masonry, but that would need to be tied / toothed in to the existing blockwork to survive.

Which is?

I never fit lesser than 92mm. Always great results tbh. The Brink 600 out-performs the Z'r and is less money Just fitted one, last week, and about to fit a 2x 600 install in a weeks time.

Hello folks, I was flooded in Jan 2025 have recently re-built my house and I am about to get EWI. I should have taken flood protection more seriously earlier, but that ship has now sailed. Regardless I am about to tank the external of my property, and ideally I want to take the flood protection above my DPC . I plan to use this https://www.newtonwaterproofing.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Newton_HydroBond_2K-Flex_TDS_1.0.pdf below DPC and approx 30cm under ground level and then https://www.newtonwaterproofing.co.uk/products-systems/products/cementitious-tanking-slurries-renders/high-performance-cementitious-coating/ to 'bridge' my DPC and provide some level of flood protection above it. My thinking being that the cementitious coating will at least somewhat breathable. See the below diagram for my thoughts, I would just like some input on this? My DPC is very high currently about 40cm off the ground. I have dug around the entire of the property and opened up the pavement at the front.

You both have the right attitude I think. Eventually. Wild flowers and meadows require "not mowing". And it hadn't occurred to me that I could do my " no digging" at any time or place. I may "not dig" tomorrow while watching tv.

probably end up being about 30-40mm. Foundation is a suspended beam & block floor, DPM, 150mm PIR, Vapour membrane, UFH, slip membrane.

@torre The vapour membrane is below the pipes, the slip membrane on top.

Liquid gypsum seems to get good reviews

where are the family's shoes stored?

I believe approved contractors (to PAS????) can self certify

Yes, all government schemes seem to get defrauded. Horrendous during covid. Imagine spending £500 Billion to no good effect, and actually doing so much longer term damage. And it is our money not theirs, the politicians waste it like water.

Isn't the membrane usually laid below the pipes?