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Im not sure any of them are "quiet". The vortex i had was hopeless in that regard. Much work was carried out to make it quiet. Whilst 90% better, i was never happy with it. If id stayed, i would have moved it some distance away into a summerhouse we had there. Would have needed a bigger compressor due to distance though.

The white CT1 has a tendency to discolour, from previous experience, but may now be improved / resolved. Also, CT1 is an absolute pig to even attempt to tool or shape / finish so I’d avoid for that application.

If the water is flowing then you need an abstraction license, iirc? In summer, if water throughput is minimal, and you use cooling, then you will raise the temp of the lake. Prob zero issue in winter where water is more likely to be flowing more abundantly.

Restriction within nuclear facilities are extremely stringent. No sure where I heard this (online pre clickbait/slop I think) but a funny story was the university phd student working at the universities small research reactor managed to set off the radiation alarm as he came into the facility thanks to a different hair gel he was using. Initially you think this seems a bit crazy but thinking more (my own thoughts, not checked) I can imagine the detectors are relatively simple and detections of small amounts of certain isotopes would indicate a big problem whereas some other isotopes are naturally occurring at that those levels in some places.

I'd use Forever White or BT1. Both have fungicide in them.

I have often wondered about that from borehole water down here. Our background radiation is too high to have a nuclear power station apparently, though that story has been told to me for 50 years, so no idea if it is really true.

For silicone-ing the join between ceiling and ceramictiles I've just bought a tube of Dow 785 that I have used for ages. My previous experience is that it stays white and is easy to tool Given the advice above should I consider swapping it out for CT1? Regards Tet PS Cramer/Fuji tool and following Charlie DIYte's youtube video for the best results

one irresponsible farm worker can change that in seconds.

If you swap, then the 22mm cold will be good enough to have things T’d off it. Run the 15mm pipe, test the flow rate, reassess if you need to go an inch further. PIR (aka “occupancy switch”) was just Screwfix jobby. Set to lowest setting for time (30 or 60 secs iirc). You can blind one half of the lens of the sensor so it can only ‘see’ the doorway, so once in the room you don’t keep triggering the pump. Seriously doubt you need all this faff, but you seem committed. I strongly suggest you do the 15mm hot run and test it first, then you may get the bit out from between your teeth lol.

a). It’s never usually possible to seal across that much area. If the shower profile is fully home into the wall profile then maybe an option, but usually people don’t want mastic smeared all over the otherwise shiny chrome.

My wife & daughter have done a cracking job with white elec tape and permanent pen labelling ready for the electrician. They all match up with our floor plans that I’ve annotated on Procreate (iPad app). I plan to label them at the end with dymo tape printed labels, as I have found ‘permanent’ pens are often not what they claim to be 😂.

Thanks @Nickfromwales - okay, I'll avoid that. I'll add a hep2o 15mm line for secondary circulation, and if I find it's a nightmare then I could swap the pipes around and use it as the hot feed to the shower instead. It would mean the hot being in 15mm and the cold in 22mm, but still. The Wilo SB 30 has a good flow rate and decent price, so I might try that. Which PIR sensors and smart plugs etc did you use, please?

Slightly speculative, but worth a discussion I think. One thing I see balcony solar being used for is a small fixed installations as a cost-saver. That is, we use a more fixed small install on wall, roof - whatever - done via something more substantive than "hook on a balcony" done under Permitted Development, and then use a connection to a plug-in unit to avoid the complex wiring etc. AIUI the limitations are 2 kWp of solar panels, and 800W output. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? And does anyone have any thoughts on the impact of a 1kw or 2kw balcony solar system on the EPC number? This could be a way for LLs trying to meet the EPC C which is I think a requirement for 2030.

I think I will, just in case. If the metal profile is two part, do you have the sealant (a) just onto the inner profile part of (b) covering both. I'm expecting you'd say (b) but wanted to be sure. second sealant side shown in light green as may not be present in an ideal world 🤣 I suppose you could have (b) on the external junction and (a) on the internal junction, but stull feels like (b) might be best all round. Interested to have your thoughts.

I believe it's fairly difficult to use it for potable water, but it is possible to use rainwater for flushing toilets/washing clothes. Based on what I've read here I have interest in using it to flush toilets and external (garden/window cleaning/etc) uses. Don't think so. I think the issue is potable water standards are tough and stored rainwater will usually be a long way away from that (bird poop washed off roof into tank, etc). I'm sure I've seen someone talk about using it for everything but the treatment system was involved and had a fairly costly maintenance/testing process. Plus you need to store a huge amount of it to get through droughts.

You can stop the CT1 5-10mm or so from the tray, as that will add some insurance that the water can escape freely.

I tried to get permission to use that for my house supply with suitable treatment but as usual it is not acceptable in uk for planning or building control not sure how that any different than using water from bore hole or stream -- but they would not accept it so we ended up with a bore hole and uv +filters etc there were however fresh water shrimp in the original supply if you put it through a big drum --we were using that for the concrete +mortar mixing best of it was when we checked both the original supply from the circa 1730 stone culvert coming down the hill and my bore hole -- there was less bacteria content in the stream than the bore hole and also it was 50% less hard reason for that would be the rainwater entering the stream would be soft and all bore hole water has travelled through lots of rock over a long period of time Is it the possiblity of radio active pollution in rainwater?

its actually a 16kw -- big house --these folk just find it easier to say no I suppose they could be worried of a leak from the piping into the lake--antifreeze will certainly kill everything

and just accept that paint stripping is a very time consuming and nasty task

They must have thought you had 5MW heat pump not a 5kW one. F'ing numpties

this will be why my guys insisted on self levelling then grinding it and checking again the moisture content before fitting the LVT the lvt will only be about 3mm thick --so will follow contours if there are any and as with most things the the preparation is the important bit to get a perfect job

Cool, so from where I am now (without sealant between the profile and the wall) I'll have sealant in the following junctions. At bottom of profile between tray and wall (applied before fitting the profile) Down full height of profile internally Down the full height of the profile externally Around the profile to tray junction externally That's pretty much what I was thinking, though wondered about holding it up from the bottom a bit for the internal sealant [2] to allow any water that has got in to drain out in case the sealant of [1] blocks that from happening.

Yup. But water trapped (collecting during showering) must be able to leave via gravity > tray > plughole, so as soon as you get to the bottom of the profile where it meets the tray, stop.

stop cock should have a non return valve in it --so you cannot pollute the mains -

Is that as well a sealing externally for the verticals? If so that creates a continuous seal with the sealant round the external edge of the profile to tray junction.