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https://nfsa.org/2025/05/05/announcing-nfsas-lithium-ion-batteries-and-fire-sprinklers-guide/ https://firebuyer.com/sprinkler-systems-contain-lithium-battery-fires-in-uk-homes/

I wonder how effective they are when a lithium battery fire starts. Battery fires are generally self sustaining until the fuel runs out, so getting the temperature down is the key element to tackle, a domestic sprinkler system may not deliver enough water, for long enough. Just speculating as I don't know the ins and outs of domestic sprinkler systems. We have a fire suppression system in our works kitchen. It is filled with ANSULEX Low pH Liquid Agent, what ever that is. Sounds like a treatment for piles.

The Regulation is Regulation 4 which says: (1) Subject to paragraph (2) building work shall be carried out so that— (a)it complies with the applicable requirements contained in Schedule 1; and (b)in complying with any such requirement there is no failure to comply with any other such requirement, except as may be provided for in paragraphs (1C) and (1D)]. The Requirement in Schedule 1 is repeated in the Approved Document B and is then interpreted in detail within the document. The requirement says; Internal fire spread (structure) B3. (1) The building shall be designed and constructed so that, in the event of fire, its stability will be maintained for a reasonable period (2) A wall common to two or more buildings shall be designed and constructed so that it adequately resists the spread of fire between those buildings. For the purposes of this sub-paragraph a house in a terrace and a semi-detached house are each to be treated as a separate building. (3) Where reasonably necessary to inhibit the spread of fire within the building, measures shall be taken, to an extent appropriate to the size and intended use of the building, comprising either or both of the following— (a) sub-division of the building with fire-resisting construction; (b) installation of suitable automatic fire suppression systems. Paragraph (3) seems to cover it but there is no specific mention of battery systems as things haven't caught up yet. However, since 30 minutes fire resistance for houses generally is regarded as "reasonable" I think 120 minutes would be hard to justify, given that that level of protection is only required to the largest of multi-storey buildings that also have sprinkler systems installed.

The 'glazing' is multi wall poly carbonate sheets, they go 'milky' after a short time and look dreadful. Do they offer an acrylic option ?

I am not sure I would want batteries inside the house. IF they do go up in flames, almost impossible to extinguish so almost certain to lead to loss of building even with a long fire protection of their room. I think I would want them outside in a cage. Only a couple of days ago a huge blaze in Glasgow building collapse and main rail station closed for days. Started as a fire behind the counter in a vape which people tried to put out with extinguishers and failed then it took hold. And this is just a collection of the small batteries in vape's. I expect insurers to exclude battery fires soon if they don't already. They like a get out clause. There is a burnt out cottage near here, insurers refused to pay out because the investigation revealed the cause as a laptop computer left sitting on a bed plugged in and charging. Presumably it set fire to the bedding. They say that was negligence so not insured.

Is that on an EV tariff? No ev here

@JCB400 how did you get on with these?

Don’t know if this helps any - it’s fairly common to bevel the plasterboard below and above the window. (We have ours bevelled in all 4 directions, but that’s a bit of a faff.) Would that help your objective?

Maybe there’s another staircase design that means the ‘rsj’, or replacement, can still do a similar span? Also, it’s possible that an SE can design something that will have the same structural effect but not impinge on the stairs. The good news is that there won’t be many bidders prepared to absorb the cost & risk of structural work. Start flinging out very low bids to see whether it might make financial sense? Agree that previous developer is a fool, so there may be other stuff lurking. You should be able to see on the land registry what the previous developer paid for it. That might be a psychological bottom line for them.

Batteries, so only pay 7p for electric... IOG.

You have to apply to the valuation office to have council tax stopped, they then advise the local council. We needed to keep paying until we got the decision notice, and although the process took about 6 months the refund was very quick. Take pictures through out the demolishing (unless it's going to be done very quickly....we took several weeks) as you have to evidence the point at which it is uninhabitable (for us roof off/no kitchen or bathrooms). I suspect the process to restart paying will be swifter, but we aren't there yet.

We have just built a new Robinsons greenhouse. I’m amazed at how strong the glass is. It’s toughened glass. Would withstand acorns , but mature oak trees have a habit of shedding branches, that would be a different matter. I think, but am not sure, all greenhouses have to be toughened glass now. If under a tree keeping it clean could be an issue.

BSI PAS are technical specifications and not laws, or even minimum standards. While I am not saying they should be ignored, and may even be specified within laws, it would be so much easier if Building Act was available to the public free of charge. Though a quick web search did throw up this. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1984/55/data.pdf https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1986/44/contents https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1989/15/contents https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2022/30/contents So maybe government is getting a bit more open.

Highlights suggest a very low risk from home battery systems so probably not something to be too concerned about but do your own risk assessment

we have been building ours block by block ourselves, we also have a blog, little stud farm. its been going on for years and will be many more before finished, but the only external people is concrete and the (very expensive) preliminaries, planning, drawings, architects, building control. I must get around to putting our latest blog update as I think the last one is months ago.

It might be worth asking Fakro themselves about flashings. Alternatively might their combination windows be an option for you? The sloped window meets a vertical directly at that junction. Velux do similar.

would it be easier if you did a matching wall window attached to it- is there a worthwhile view?

The boiler's behaviour in reaching 100% output seems quite reasonable IMO, 5 minutes to reach 75% and a further 5 minutes to reach 100%, my daughters Vokera Vision 20S is pretty similar except, as it states, in the MIs.... it takes another 10 minutes to increase the output from 75% to 100%., it probably doesn't take quite 5 minutes to reach 75% but ~ 2 or 3, not a whole not different. But it certainly behaves much differently once the targettemp is reached, it immediately ramps down to maintain the targettemp very accurately, if one zone is switched off, the flowtemp might rise by a max of 2C and then returns to exactly its targettemp. This would be my bone of contention with WB. It shouldn't matter where the "flow" temperature is being measured, the controller is looking at this temperature and should modulate the boiler output to maintain the targettemp. What is the offset now between the Boiler displayed flowtemperature and the targettemp? and how does your temperature sensor, (if installed), compare with the boiler displayed one?. If you change the targettemp up or down by say 3C, is the boiler sluggish in responding and is there overshoot and undershoot?. I seem to remember that before the HEX replacement that the targettemp and boler displayed flotemp were withim a degree or so even though way higher than the actual flowtemp?.

Your issue will be the lower flashing, and how close you can take that to the gutter.

Think you have probably looked at the right property…there are two separate buildings joined together in an L shape. The agents details are extremely sketchy

Ours stopped once we confirmed demolished, then restarted with a new valuation when it was livable. We did a knock down and full rebuild, that 20% VAT saving was pretty helpful.!

Another thought. Google the property and you may find the original sales advert as a barn for conversion, with some clues. and the planning portal is worth a try to. It’s in my home town so already know a bit about it…but not how the former (failed) developer managed to make such a mess of it. The planning portal is a good shout, and I’m also going to try to consult with the local BCO.

Thanks very much…! Will report back in due course 🤞😬🤣

Ask your architect - he should have standard words. If you are at planning stage in Scotland, that should be all that's needed. When you get to warrant stage you will need 'as designed' EPC and once built that converted to 'as built'. It's a tick box exercise at planning stage. But if you say your going airtight, they will expect to understand your journey to get there and what products you plan to use with datasheets.

Our application is in for the new house design. Planning have emailed to say it’s all ready to wrap up apart from requiring a energy statement from a registered assessor. Does anyone have any recommendations? I have most of the figures from the heat loss spread sheet off buildhub but obviously I’m not registered 🙈 Thank you in advance 👍🏻