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One thing stands out and it the price, if compare to an ASHP it has nearly all the same components, it will have an air to refrigerant condenser/evaporator, fan, compressor, a casing, a controller, only the thing is the refrigerant to water heat exchanger and pump are missing. But its 10x cheaper - and everyone says an ASHP has to be expensive because it's complex, this sort of proves the point it doesn't. It may not have have a defrost cycle built in but if it does heating and cooling it will have all the hardware, which is a 4 way valve.

In fairness, given the 5 and 6 figure feck ups I’ve seen, this particular instance is more an annoying hiccup. Glass half full approach is the way to get to the finish line.

That looks great. I was admiring the gutters and dp's. Nice and big, and multiple outlets and the splays will get the water away super fast. Was this to do with the circumstances or simply good practice.. Then I noticed the comment from @Square Feet Sorry ft2 I completely disagree as I want shot of water asap and any leaks that may occur to be visible. And I think they look good. I'm a philistine who thinks that a building is there to keep us safe, warm and dry. The rest is secondary. I detest secret gutters, valley gutters, hidden pipes and afterthought drainage.

Minor set-backs my friend! Seriously, I'm sure half of us have had that 'wtf did I start this for' feeling when waking in the small hours soaked in sweat and dreaming of -insert current snag here -. It's hard to keep perspective when it's your life/money/sanity, but it will be worth it when it's finished and the PTSD subsides 🙂

I’m constantly firing idiots on my clients behalves. Just shocking how some own a saw but say it’s blunt; then I mention that they’re holding it upside down……😵‍💫🫣😣. Most recent builder to receive a bullet….you’d have to see how poor the work was to believe it. He of course couldn’t see what the problem was, or when shown just kept saying “ok, I’ll put that right”. The fact he ignored written and verbal instruction was just another day in the office. And a site littered with empty beer cans; instant dismissal applies there afaic. Glad you’ve found your voice!

Any thoughts on the Mediterranean method? It seems simple and very diy-able with the inner and outer units, and only the small pipes and a cable to drill through a wall. The outputs aren't huge so it's one per room probably.... that is what seems to be the norm domestically and in hotels. I wonder if the different climate types make any difference to spec because they seem to be available here but at twice the price. Not that I'd buy an unknown brand like this.

Thanks for the photos. So it can be done, just doesn’t look as tidy as a collar, but needs must. Brickie two is not returning. An ego the size of England, unable to understand who the client was and seemed unable to read plans regarding door openings and lintels.

Its in the visibility splay in front of their house so not their property. This is the only image I have, showing the pole next to the for sale sign, from which open reach will dig a trench across the driveway in the visibility splay, probably a few feet away from the front wall.

I think, psychologically, that you accept audibility / nuisance of anything that is cooling you down, as I’d rather have the noise than the heat every damn day. I put a 12000BTU unit in my lads attic room and it’s defo not ‘quiet’, but he sleeps through it without losing a wink. If too hot, none of us sleep well, so without a budget for fixed, wonderfully quiet, fixed AC present, this is a very acceptable compromise for the masses.

Very nice 👌

There’s a self-adhesive ‘peel and stick’ detail strip, on a roll, which I applied to these right awkward bastards: LINK Note we added stainless jubilee clips for belt & braces as Radon was v high.

This setback will be pushed to the back of your memory surprisingly quickly. We had an insulated slab laid, which the workers cocked up badly and the whole lot had to be cut up and replaced. Just keep plodding on.

SWMBO made me do some outdoor work! . Anyway welcome back to my youtube channel. Chat not very good at optimising drawcalls. We started with 50k!!!!!. Now down to 1. It needed a word. Struggling with the river at the moment. Hit that subscribe button NOW!

Taking off few courses is easiest. There may be an alternative though. How much higher is ffl than the top of your current blockwork level. Instead of the planned buildup can you not do mot, dpm, insulation, gas membrane, self compacting concrete slab. No screed needed and brings your membrane level up higher so stripping off less masonry or maybe none? Why have you sacked brickie 2 is it to do with this or something else?

Pause, sit back, breathe deeply. Now your relaxed, read the advice, research solutions e.g. the resting bend collar issue, and work out your plan of action. Write it all down, and cross it off as you go. This is satisfying as you can see progress. Regarding the brickie. From the picture it looks like what he's done is good work. Unless you have had a major falling out with angry words exchanged, it may be worth eating a little humble pie and asking them to return when needed.

A better way to cool your home if you have UFH is to cool the slab by a couple of degrees.

Shame the downpipes couldn't have run inside them. *ducks and hides*

I don't have any real advice other than to hang in there. I'm sorry it's tough just now. Sometimes a couple of hours away walking along a beach or something can help. It's a lot easier to pick yourself up and carry on again after. You'll sort it and move on from this.

We only require 'Basic' Radon protection as we are in a 3-5% area. The one issue I've got is that the membrane sits at the same level as the coupling on the rest bend. No idea how I'm going to solve that problem. But the top hats I purchased won't work. I think Juta do a liquid rubber that you create a dam and pour. The top hats are great for soil pipes in the middle of a room, but not so when your soil pipe is in the corner of a room.

If Radon is known to be a ‘high’ level, then I assume detailing the way that membrane is closed off correctly (as shown) would be a major issue here; not just time / cost, but in having this executed perfectly (BCO and warranty eyes will focus on this quite intensively if the risk is significant). Try knocking a couple of the common bricks off to see how well the Marmox breakers have adhered, as on a previous project you didn’t have to do much more than sneeze for these to come loose (tripped over a few and that was enough to dislodge them, prob too dry a bedding mix). No hate here, just sometimes replies are raw and ‘to the point’ as folk simply want to give you advice / information / direction as best they see it; often not allowing for the state of the recipient at that exact moment, which obvs does get taken the wrong way sometimes. No deleting accounts, take a breath and relax as the support here will help to get you over the finish line, you just need cut through the noise and get to the bits which you find relevant / helpful. Nobody here doesn’t want you to succeed, it’s simply not that type of forum. . If you have high levels of Radon then be aware that the rising ducts / pipes etc need to be detailed meticulously, something discovered on a current client's project. Top hats are slid over the soil pipes etc, are taped to the Radon barrier, and nave to be Jubilee clipped to form the correct detail.

Yes. Slab build up is as you have stated. Taking down the internal 3 courses won't take long and it will help considerably with gas membrane installation and concreting.

Timber frame (studs) should already be on strips of DPC, so just lap it up vertically at the walls, lay the floor, and trim off excess afterwards.

Welcome to my BS YouTube channel. Today we are going to create a minecraft inspired game in 10 seconds!. Hit subscribe!, it's you viewers I need! - thanks to our sponsor buildhub.org.uk.

But I expect I'll go Minecraft style!

All of 2 minutes work! 😀