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Me also, zero issues, a good price at the time.

Remember reading something a while ago, lots of rules and limited components approved. £18 sounds like a non approved thing Just found the thing I read https://www.ofcom.org.uk/phones-and-broadband/coverage-and-speeds/using-a-repeater-to-improve-indoor-mobile-phone-signal

Noted, I’ll redraw. The site is sloping, but not that much and the fall slipped the ‘design’ Treatment plant will be to the north/top of these drawings. Thank you

Top image will not work as you need an inspection chamber at each junction. 2nd image you are going to be metres below surface by the time everything meets up with the fall requirements. Don't like the angles, would aim for 90 degs Where is the treatment plant going? Start from there first. Longs runs equal very deep.

that's just an external antenna. You'll need the booster and it's internal antenna too?

Thanks for that. Just thought I could use a flat carbide grit hacksaw blade - cut a slit in celing so I can saw through the last bit of the tile. I'm expecting door frame is fixed to vertical stud wall framing and so will cut through tile and then multitool wood blade to cut through plasterboard to wall framing. I might need to try and cut tile adhesive off back of tile with multitool too and break tile off in bits carefully...will see. Normally I just replace all plasterboard as tiles I remove typically damage plasterboard, so I plan to replace.....maybe with tile backerboard as most tiles I see these days are porcelain though I will look for ceramic as I think easier to work with .....I do have a flatbed water table diamond tile cutter as I've done a few bathrooms and kitchens walls/floors for myself and family.....serious DIYer but no expert tiler so always happy to learn. Current tiles are ceramic on plasterboard. Yes plan to do a test cut & use flat trim. Good tip - do not buy tiles until ready to tile. Thanks again.

one could always try not even moving the thermostat but just turning it up a few degrees. Wherever the tank is will still track the rest of the house, even if it's a wee bit higher...

Hi all, In the wait for planning and before wanting to commit to professional input for building regs drawings, I’m just starting to plan services etc around the house. The current thing I’m trying to work out is the runs for the soil pipes. These will eventually head out to a treatment plant (to be specced). Out of the two designs below, which would be preferable? One option minimises runs under the (insulated raft) slab and has multiple inspection chambers to pick everything up, the second utilises 45 deg branches. One option allows rodding access from both ends; the branch option only allows rodding from one end. This will need toilet, etc., removing to access? Any thoughts on which is best? I can’t seem to find any guidance about minimising runs under the slab but common sense says less is more. Let me know if there are any suggestions, and I'll resketch! Thank you all Thank you all

They seem to vary widely. https://materialsmarket.com/building-materials/bricks-blocks/engineering-bricks

Just if they're on show I think. How much is a class b red engineering brick nowadays? Used to be about 20 pence.

There is a 5G mast 200 metres from my house. I must go down to Goonhilly and Poldhu, the spiritual home of radio, and see if there is still no signal.

5G vs 4G. As your know @SteamyTea, in Kernow 5G is a rare beast, often only to be found wondering around Truro and maybe some other larger towns in the county. Likelihood of us getting 5G where we are I suspect is very low. So, paying for something we're unlikely to get is pointless IMHO. @ProDave, Yes, we do wifi calling in the house. I am planning for that next broadband and/or power outage that leaves us dependent on a mobile signal. This is the link to that above picture - https://ebay.us/m/TKwM6Y

So I'm going to purchase some engineering bricks for below ground and for a couple of courses that will be behind the wood cladding. What I'm struggling to understand is why you'd pay £1.50 for some class A glazed, when a 22N concrete brick is £0.50?

I am going to phone several companies to discuss options of open cut and trenchless options, whatever I go for I feel like it is going to be expensive…🥲

Not enough information. Need a link, not a picture. But probably useless at that price. Do you have decent broadband? If so you only need a phone and service provider that supports wifi calling when at home. If looking for 4G or 5G broadband, you need a router that has an external aerial that plugs into the router. THAT is not that aerial.

Never tried one, but two things. Are the legal, seem to remember than some are not. Do they do a 5G version, 4G is to 2010s.

Its technologies are fine, I’ve bought from them in the past. the fogstar batteries are cheaper, lots rave about them but I’ve no experience using them personally

Considering the Fogstar batteries when money allows, although probably smaller capacity. The Solis inverter is a good option too. Combined with a low rate bank loan this would be a good deal

Ive Just been assuming this ceiling is boarded. What an idiot. You might get away with poking them thru the inside.

We have a weak mobile phone signal inside the house, likely to do with the concrete walls and 3G glazing. Im thinking of fitting a signal booster, something like this: Anyone used anything like this or something similar that they would recommend?

I've just come across this site, which seems suspiciously cheap for very large batteries https://www.itstechnologies.uk/collections/sunsynk-installed-packages/products/installed-solis-8-10kw-hybrid-plus-fogstar-energy-48-3-64-4kwh?variant=57830302187901 48kWh Fogstar battery with 8kW Solis inverter for £7130 fitted. 64kWh battery with 8kW inverter for £8315 Also options for 10kW inverters and larger quantities of batteries. These batteries are probably bigger then we need, but I'm now considering these, and sacking off the solar altogether.

How "good" does this need to be? I'd be surprised if you couldn't wiggle something up into place. 50mm would be enough bearing. Maybe use 2 plys of longer bendier timber like 150*25 instead of a single 150*50. You could "truss" the roof by adding vertical support to the existing joists from the rafters.

OK. So technically feasible. But you must not undermine the road so the likely option would be hammering a big steel pipe through to a fall, then emptying it of earth, or insert a cheaper pipe and grout around. Very specialist and expensive. And check there are no services in the road.

The new member was @jon-lee, but not posted in a while, think he was scared off by a mod. Shame.

I can dig a trench on my plot, the other side is 1.4 mtrs below my plot and drain below road would run into drain in farmers field..