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Struggling to maintain 60fps and thats without Mike the robot, creatures and other goodies in. Even Fable is kicking back. TAA in was a big gain took some scenes from 200% GPU down to 120% (still over but considerable gain). Of course what's exactly on screen has a massive impact not just trees and imposters (tried those 3 times and gave up, after some thought 4th time worked good enough) but!, as essentially the terrain,sky,shadows,lighting,clouds,water is 1 massive shader (2Mb! as inline for speed) ray marching them from grazing angles can punish fps. I cant lie visuals are AAA - which is staggering. Still not looked at any code but tell it what to look for optimise wise and indeed it does and especially Fable goes off and find extra rabbit holes to explore which is good! A few more things to try though from a very empty bag of tricks. What do we have though? You can see maybe 10,000 trees on screen (yes most are a black pixel!), you can get right into the grass and it moves as you pass and each blade is vertex lit. Looks (expletive deleted)ing better than most of my holiday snaps!. Final push before rapier physics and Mike goes in. Then linking back to whisper and the local LLM - see we got there in the end just via a 3d engine! LOL!

GGU PK10 0070 94x160 cm manually operated white polyurethane VELUX window, with the 62 pane in the bedroom. This has reminded me though, we had one fitted in another room with a 68 pane (significantly cheaper) and this cuts down rain noise pretty well - but not speech noise from outside. As its lighter the hinges work better, my wife struggles to shut the ones in our bedroom.

That's me told - I'll ask for your opinion first next time.

Is there an advantage to putting an intermediate thin-ish insulation layer under UFH screed in a PH-style house? We have 300mm XPS with a 150mm slab on top and we plan to have 100m screed with UFH. But I’m wondering whether, say, a 30mm insulation layer and then 70mm screed would provide a shorter tjme constant for more rapid heating & cooling. I know some peeps subscribe to always heating to 20/21 degrees and cooling to 25 degrees 24/365 using the slab as a big heat reservoir. But that assumes you never want to change the temperature any, and if ever you do, then it’s going to take days i.e. a v long time-constant.

Use treated timber (Tanalised or equivalent) and C24.... the C16 untreated is generally for lightweight internal work, and the cost difference is small. The element doing most work in your example is the fascia board, as it is supporting multiple rafter and joist ends, and that isn't good. Start with the gallows brackets, then add a timber to the front, bearing on them, then fit the rafters and joists. The fascia is for show and to keep the weather out. This is a very small structure which is supporting your tiles most of the time, but occasionally will have wind uplift. Nobody is going to die if it fails, but it is still best to keep it to the logic above.

+1 for a couple of dMEV fans. You could also have humidity trickle vents or through wall vents for fresh air. Get rid of the tumble dryer and use a decent dehumidifier with plumbed in condense. Put a drying rack or rail in the same room / cupboard as the dehumidifier.

Yes. Don't have plasterboard as a strip either side and waistbands in the middle. Make the plasterboard L-shaped or e-shaped if you can and you won't get cracks on the joints.

You can further attenuate noise by installing integral, internal (Velux) blinds / curtains. Every little helps.

You can buy these all pre made by a truss manufacturer just screw a wall plate to the wall and away you go.

Sort of if you want the facia smaller you might have a wall plate running from left to right on top of the gallows brackets that the rafters notch into using a birds mouth cut. its hard to tell the drawing needs to be 3 dimensional really.

Out of 10 how shit would that look. probably a 10, maybe even 11 or 12. c’mon let’s be sensible we all like to make a bit of free electricity but that is a proper nasty.

Fantastic thank you. Can you remember the make and model by any chance? Cheers

Yes it is. We went with the top of the range 3G ones for our bedroom (replacing 2G Veluxes) and now sleep through rain storms - most of the time.

Make the rafter long enough to have PV panels in landscape and do the roof in solar panels - if east,south or west facing? No tiles to faff with. Choose the panels well and you could get 6 panels on the there.

Either use ft2 or m2/m3/m. Mixing makes it rubbish to read without us having to convert from imperial to metric. If your airtight do dMVHR, if your not airtight do dMEV

Update I think this would be better:

I recommend all, especially critics, to consider standing for their local parish or borough. We need you. Then report back on whether it was easy, well rewarded, selfish: or hard work, not or barely rewarded, or public spirited. Or to stop criticising all councillors, politicians and public servants.

I recommend all, especially critics, to consider standing for their local parish or borough. Then report back on whether it was easy, well rewarded, selfish: or hard work, not or barely rewarded, or public spirited. Or to stop criticising all councillors, politicians and public servants.

I'm thinking of installing MVHR in a flat which comprises two bedrooms, a bathroom, an open plan lounge/kitchen and a hallway which links each of these rooms together. The flat is only about 780 sq feet. Here is the layout (though the room at the bottom of the drawing, labelled "living room" will be a bedroom): My first question is where to install the actual MVHR unit itself. The current options are: 1) There is a large cupboard that sits above the bathroom. It is about 45cm tall and has the footprint almost as big as the whole bathroom (which is about 1.8m by 2m). That cupboard is, accessed from the smaller of the two bedrooms, though it's slightly awkward because the cupboard doors are about 2.1m above floor height. Apart from the access issue, the main disadvantage of this location for the MVHR unit is that it will be audible from the small bedroom, and that is a big problem. So unless units operate close to silently, I don't think this is viable. 2) There is a cupboard which houses the tumble dryer which has enough space to house another laundry machine, on top of the tumble dryer, but that second laundry unit went into the kitchen instead, leaving that space available. That cupboard is at the bottom of the staircase within the flat, just to the left, before entering the kitchen. The advantage of that location is that it's not adjacent to anything other than the kitchen. This would be my preferred location, although I'd still want a quiet machine if possible, as the kitchen will be in regular use and in combination with the open plan "morning room" area will form the only communal living area, as the "living room" is actually a second bedroom. 3) I could build a small external insulated cupboard outside in the garden, up agains the external kitchen wall (shown to the right). The downside of this is that there aren't any PD rights with flats, so we'll need planning permission probably, even though it will be a small addition. It will also need to be detailed carefully to ensure it's sufficiently well insulated, and it might need its own heat supply, which would be a bugger. So my questions are whether people think option 2 is viable from a sound insulation perspective. How quiet can a machine for a 780 square foot flat be? Ceiling heights are about 2.65m at most (and less in some places, e.g. the bathroom). But assuming an average of 2.55 throughout, the cubic volume of the flat is 2.55 x 72.5m^2 =184.875 m^3. Rounding up to 200m^3 to be safe. I'd like to aim for very low air velocities, generous duct sizes, proper attenuation between the MVHR and distribution system, and low-noise terminals, like the Lindab airy ones. My second question: is a machine with 250m^3 per hour output sufficient? If so, can anybody recommend a quiet one?

wouldn,t it be good if our politcians followed the burgers of calais and spontaneously combusted

The French copy no one.

Didn't look hard enough (though, in fairness, this was an 'ad-hoc single purpose subcommittee' of the full council): CC BY-SA 3.0 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Burghers_of_Calais

16kwh Fogstar batteries are £1850, I paid £700 earlier this year for a 5kw solis hybrid inverter, a grand for panel mounts, £500 for inverter connection/sundries. Your return is looking much better and you've got treble the battery capacity to play with.

There is loads of oil and gas in the not developed category - so none of it appears on @Beelbeebub charts, because they only include developed. A lot of the "not developed" sites are because they are expensive to exploit, either/and deep, sour or heavy. But at the right price a useful commodity.

So cut the rafter ends like this I was going to use dry verge ends, i know they look a bit naff. Where the rafters meet the wall plate should i stick with birdmouth setup so it sits on top of the wall plate or can i just have the rafter butted up to the wall plate and screw them together? i was going to use 100mm deep timbers for the rafters and figured there wouldn't be much left after id cut the birdmouth. I was going to screw it all together is that ok or should it be nails? (I appreciate this is a basic questing but i know certain things in roofing should be nailed) Interesting point about the tile size. these roofs are common on the houses round here and the ones where the tiles don't match the main roof tiles look odd so my hands are tied.