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But that would be limewashed and tapestries and I'd be asking for gargoyle advice

I will pm. They probably won't travel to you but may know someone your way. I chose them simply from a local search of vehicle door people, not from Facebook which was just agents selling on contacts.

Thanks, but not clear who the manufacturer is. Can you provide contact details please?

Apparently there is a difference depending on relative surface areas, so an aluminium rivet in SS is bad, but a SS screw into aluminium is not so bad. Chlorine generation from electrolysis is the biggest problem. Would be interesting to look at the mountings on the Marina Drive property that is less than 50m from the sea and is frequently battered by sea spray. The PV has been there about 15 years.

He did say he was building a big house, maybe its really really big and got a side extension. Maybe its that new build castle on Grand Designs

I got them from my friendly local steel fabricator but I’m pretty sure they bought them in from a ‘C’ section joist manufacturer. Maybe from a company like this? https://albionsections.co.uk/c-section/

Yes, an error there. It would take a lot of paint to cover 1.5km2, as it is 1.5 million square metres and would take about 150,000 litres of paint to do a single coat.

😮 With spraying I think the masking time is the killer. It might be you can accept some comprimises to get it done. For example if you don't have floor finishings /electrics in and your ceiling is white and you are at least misting the walls white then maybe you can get away with just masking the windows and doors and treat the white as undercoat for any skirting or woodwork you have installed.

That's remarkably good info from ai. Fortunately ig has found and cringed good advice, not bad. I'd only sat that outlets are better at quarter to third points than ends as water runs both ways with shorter travel.

Yes it's about 1,500m2.somebody had mentioned that rather large area and I was impressed by the magnitude, couldn't be bothered to calculate it, and it does grab the attention 1,500 to 2,000 is about right in an off the top of the head sum. Btw we really have used 10km of timber. I'll be asking for recommended paint brands soon. Not expecting it to be farrow and ball.

Very happy with the roller door. They fitted it in about 3 hours. Only needs an extension lead until we get final cable in. Electric rs door, black, pneumatic sensor on the bottom. Easy push button box inside. 2 remote fobs. We went for the less well known manufacturer, saving £400 and happy with that. It was about £1700, fitted. Specialist firm about 10 miles from site, with real people.

Thank you to those who commented and voted. I have been recently persuaded by SWMBO to use ICF for its strength and DIYability. Now researching garage doors and the roof.

@Russdl, where did you get those steel joists from? Looks like an interesting solution for my soon to be built garage.

@saveasteading, how did you get on with your garage door search? Assume you bought one by now. (Whoever that supplier is who charges extra for Cornwall can go do one!)

It always made me laugh using stainless bolts / screws with the aluminium clamps as used in a approved kits. From a materials perspective it's a disaster waiting to happen. Aluminium and stainless are not best of friends. Aluminium being a sacrificial anode to stainless.

Do you mean 1500m2 not 1.5km2?! I have sprayed before with a low quality DIY sprayer and I would not do it again, that was slower than rollering in the end I think. Check out youtube to see what a good quality sprayer does, easy to see why its 3 times the setup compared to the spraying time.

Keep the windows and doors open during the day when it is warm and dry outside. If you have a dehumidifier, close doors and windows and run it at night.

Opening and stirring paint, moving hoses, cleaning up, moving sprayer, demasking. They were 3 x 3 storey houses. The spraying was less than 2 days. A lot of paint. They also had a roller that was fed paint by a hose that they used for rendered walls, so no faffing with a scuttle.

Ah, as Dunc says there are some calcs - by and large they ignore the roof materials and sometimes the location/rainfall characteristics. Don't know how I missed those...thanks guys. e.g.

Probably be better to write in that T's need the LL's permission, that would probably cover both angles.

We will definitely have the tape and joint by others, and lighting will be set well off wall faces to avoid shadowing. What were the other 3 doing?

Indeed. It's best to be passing-by friendly with all of them. But if the manager/boss you have a contract with isn't there then you need to know who is in charge. Unfortunately that may not be the brightest or most knowledgeable one.

Good idea. Gonna try it.

TBH it is not the clients role or responsibility to be 'a supportive presence', whatever that might be deemed to be. The client is paying for the work, and is the only person that ends up holding the (sometimes deformed) baby afterwards. To me it seems to be as common for being supportive to be seen as 'weakness', as it is for it to be in any way appreciated or reciprocated. People vary, everyone is different - personality, objectives, world view, work ethic, competence, lived experience and attitudes. That needs to be respected on all sides. Leave the pig headedness and the ego at the site gate. Builders often seem to work with strict heirarchy. I am boss, the site leader is next, all employees and trades are subservient and to 'follow orders' - the 'lower' the skill group the more so - from labourers, ground workers, brickies, plasterers, carpenters, plumbers, up to electricians. More akin to the armed forces than so called 'knowledge worker' type companies of inter co-operating thinkers with equal specialisations. It can be difficult to know who to talk to, and whether it will make any difference. I have had individuals listen and adjust something, I have been ignored and fobbed off with lies, I have seen individuals over ruled by site leader or builder for showing any degree of independent thought or for listening to a client. I have seen people fail to stop work even when it is obvious they have a problem. The relationship between builder and worker can be multifarious - employee, partner, sub-contractor, 20 year drinking mate, day rate, piece rate, job and knock, personally liable to fix any issue arising with their work for free - or not. Generally everyone is rowing their own boat and will often advise you based on what suits them - can't be done, nothing wrong, next trade will sort it, too late now. Lettered professional opinion is normally listened to - structural engineer, architect, QS, BCO. Client not necessarily even when they are saying exactly the same thing as the lettered professional. You need to find the good people which you only know if you have experienced their work and approach. I have been told people were the best person in the top building firm before they joined the builder, everyone is said to be excellent, worked for King Charles, a brickie AND a carpenter etc. Often a warning sign. Some clients may actually know little about whether their builder or tradesperson is actually good or bad - many clients likely don't own a spirit level or know a steel screw from a stainless one etc. There is a reason good businesses let you see your car being worked on, have a window into the kitchen, show you the shop floor etc. You can't ask for trust, you can only earn it.

For isolated things this is a super fast way. Tweaking the graphics for example or an effect . I can literally “ let’s try this “ ; 5 seconds later viewing it . I love this part .