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In the context of the Crown Estate, give its assets to a Quango / Government Department to run? An excellent idea in principle that could be done right away by hypothocating the relevant profits. Though maybe the Contract for Difference subsidies (£1.9bn last year) exceed the revenue?

For those finding their address is still not on the PAF, have a look here and see if you can find your house listed: https://www.findmyaddress.co.uk/search If you can find it there you will find it's UPRN, Unique Property Reference Number. How I wish that was widely used instead of the PAF. If your address is not on the PAF it WILL NOT stop post being delivered. The only time it proves an issue is if you try and buy something on line and the supplier only offers "enter your postcode and select your house" Any sensible merchant that allows the option of enter address manually and you will have no problem.

Hi Dave, how are you doing? The warranty was 3 years. The recon unit would be of the latest version, but I have similar concerns, hence my second question. I've spoken to the installer, who says he's come across this issue before and, in his experience, it's not something that can be easily (or economically) fixed. Online searches suggest it can sometimes be caused by a loose terminal or broken contactor, or a faulty relay, but I wouldn't have a clue what to look for, and even if I did I wouldn't have confidence in being able to safely dismantle and fix it.

I agree that the Panasonic’s Aquarea website and brochures are a bit of a mess. They also seem keen on various bundles that complicate the situation. I think the newer “L” series is finally available standalone. If you are happy with R32 coolant then the “J” series monoblock is what you want. T-cap is for very low outside temps. 5kW, 7kW, 9kW are all the same single fan machine: WH-MDC—J3E5, 05,07,09 in place of the two dashes. The Secon Renewables website is the best place to look at the various Panasonic ASHPs offering. https://www.seconrenewables.com/panasonic-heat-pumps-266-c.asp

+1 on butt joints with biscuits (not glued) and 2 or 3 bolts recessed in the underside. Just a bit of CT1/OB1 at the top of the connecting faces before clamping up. Worked fine on my previous kitchen which had 3 joints in oak worktops. Stainless steel screws in slotted brackets to hold it to the wall or units underneath.

Just thought it best for a quick sanity check. One can get quite lost going down various hypothetical rabbit-holes, when it’s all you keep staring at.

WE are also on the 7 hour eon tariff (6.7p) and with V2H and 2 EVs we use up to about 80kwh from batts for our heat pump and general usage in the day rate period. Likely to try for utility warehouse E7 tariff when our eon ends in May, not sure about export at that point.

There should be a cavity tray at this point. Perhaps it’s not specific in the Approved Document but the Building Regulations require that a wall resists rainwater penetration. In this instance the external wall becomes an internal wall below the roof and under severe wind driven rain the internal wall may become saturated if no cavity tray. I would imagine BCO will insist on one but you need to check as their interpretation & enforcement may differ.

No. I'm in a low part of Surrey. I'm going to forget about snow for now, & resume the work on my drawings. I'm sure I'll be back with another question about my BC/construction drawing amends soon.

So with a single storey garage adjoining a 2 storey house would you bother with the stepped tray or not. It's going to disrupt the continuity of insulation, im not even sure if blown insulation would overcome this. The garage wouldn't be integrated so would have good ventilation. I wonder if bco would make you put the tray in or in this case let you omit.

Yeah, there’s a ‘new build database’ or something and the standard ‘actually exists’ database. My LPA insisted on putting us on the former. That means that all but a few switched-on merchants can’t see it. Annoying for deliveries.

Has AI removed the muscular man doing the painting.

She seems way too happy about ladders. Do you get much snow?

Thanks for your thoughts on this, @Gus Potter. Re: gutter fall & high end/low end detail, I’m anticipating giving the gutter a good fall. The gutter will be behind the aluminium trim, which will be perfectly horizontal. That’s a good point about snow sliding down the roof ripping the gutter off. I hadn’t considered that. What I had considered was polishing the standing seam with ceramic coat, to make it easy to clean & that would definitely increase the chances of a covering of snow sliding off, as a big slab. We’re going for a black roof, & I can see myself getting my long pole washing device out to clean off any birds’ muck that might appear. As the roof is standing seam, I don’t think it would be too much of a problem to modify some PV brackets (or buy purpose made brackets) to hold some poles across the bottom of the roof, to make a snow guard. They could just go on for January/Feb, or perhaps if I make a good job, they could be permanent. It might be good to incorporate a little Tyrolean design influence. It’s my favourite part of the world. I can see gutter cleaning being a real problem on a proper 2 storey house with the type of roof & gutter I’m aiming for. You wouldn’t want to put a ladder up against the delicate edge trim that hides the gutters. In my case, the gutters are only at first floor height, so I’ll be able to access them using a step ladder, or better still, I have some of these mobile steps I can use.

Yup. I’ve allowed to insulate the flow and returns along the lengthy landing area, to ensure any heat we introduce is going exactly where I want it to.

We find exactly the same on a long thin (25m long) single storey. Open bedroom doors everywhere is the same temperature an hour later. Our last house 3 storey (built in 1830) bedrooms with doors open ended up same temperature as rest of house. We just never needed to have bedroom heating on.

Whatever you do, only fit heating in actual rooms. DO NOT waste effort fitting on a landing or room with no separation from the landing, it WILL NOT be needed. We have to keep the bedroom door shut tight to keep the bedroom down to the temperature swmbo likes about 17 degrees and we have no heating in there. This week has been mild so the bedroom window has been opened at times to keep the temperature down.

What areas are you using it in?

As above.

Not had great experiences with Nu heat previously either. And pricey.

How old is it (what is the warranty period) Replacing it with the same is the classic case of doing the same thing but hoping for a different result (the replacement lasts longer) So I would not do that. I would be asking this forum and others what alternative make has a proven record of lasting longer. The fact they are offering you a refurb unit means they have been collecting dead ones and repairing them. Personally I would be taking it apart to find out what has failed.

Not assuming anything, simply answered your question Its not a small one iirc.

I’m working on an MBC PH project atm and we’ve had this chat. Defo going to install UFH on the FF, but I’ve spec’d it for only 70-80% of each of the room floor areas to be heated, due to the anticipated minimal heating requirements. I’ve asked MBC to make some changes to the upstairs construction to allow me to get alu spreader plates in as quickly as possible when they get up to wall plate height. Planning that to happen on a Thursday / Friday so we can ask MBC to stand down so the install of all the ff UFH can be done over a long (bat-shit crazy) weekend……I am well aware that MBC will be champing at the bit again at 07:00 on the Monday morning(!!) so I’ve got a few good people lined up to help out as it’s quite a big (400m2 iirc) house. After the slab detailing for ductwork, my next joy is going through heating and cooling / plant etc, and have planned some fan coils to blast the FF landing (full height, fully glazed gallery aspects each side) to scavenge unwanted stagnant heat away. Some powered Velux windows will step in early for a bit of passive purge, so the reliance on cooling or more specifically cooling under duress is mitigated against at the design level. Hopefully it all works at the end or I’ll have to move house. Lol.

But none of this detail is provided, so you are assuming, I was just asking a question. MBC build will need very little heat input (assuming it's not massive), so any heat added has very little place to go. So quite a bit of room temp equalisation will happen anyway, zones or no zones.

Because upstairs are bedrooms, and each are individual…..to the individuals in them! Why would you not zone, and then rob yourself of any degree of control? The swing from north to south is considerable, and this cannot be rubber stamped from one project to another, particularly if there’s any discernible glazing featured.