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Correction, I should have said, actual humidity (g/m3 ) will go up and down, not relative humidity (%)

But wear mask gloves etc to protect yourself - if it is indeed asbestos.

I don't think you need more ventilation. You mentioned that you have large temperature variations. The items in your garage are heating up and cooling down. Because of their thermal mass, if the garage is drafty, that process will lag the temperature of the air coming into your garage. The relative humidity of the air coming in, will go up and down with its temperature. After a cold night when the contents of the garage have had time to cool down, as the day warms, warm moist air getting into your garage will come into contact with items which are still colder than the air, and water will condense out on them. Reduce the temperature fluctuations by insulation and perhaps some background heat. Slow down the rate at which the garage air is replaced by trying to get your garage door less leaky. You don't need much ventilation in a garage; trickle vents etc are there because we introduce moisture into our houses by living in them.

if rads are sized correctly you can run low temps to rads as well as UFH (same temps even) then with DHWP set up can run elevated temps for hot water tank I'm running 55 deg flow temp when doing hot water tank recharge and rest of the time running WC on rads and even at OAT if -2.5 deg C the boiler flow temp doesn't go above 33 deg C house is 80's detached with CWI and SUDG windows and doors, 300mm of loft insulation and 75mm of kingspan PIR under the suspended ground floor - all I did in nearly all of the rooms was change T11 rads to T22

Be interesting to see where places like Pakistan are 1 year after the Iran stuff started. Poor countries dependent on imported energy have been going hell for leather on renewables since then as it's by far the cheapest (and decentralised) way to energy security for them.

School mums... 😉

It's most likely dampness through the floor but you've checked that....so driving through some weakness.. under the door, through the wall. The simplest answer is much more ventilation. But first walk all round it and go into it during heavy rain. You'll often find a drip or dribble.

Really depends on floor buildup and house heat losses. UFH is a low and slow heating system so you want the temperature as low as you can get away with, you want long run times. Boiler flow temp reduced as far as you can while still getting the water temp you need and the boiler doesn't cycle.

Rather than forcing people to buy BEVs, why not fine people £1000 if their cars are loud, say over 75dB. Was tailgated by a nob in a black Merc yesterday. Even though we were in a 20MPH zone, with lots of traffic, he still felt the need to declutch and redline his engine. I am currently sitting, 8n the sun, by the same stretch of road. Lots of traffic as school run is just finishing. Here is the screenshot of my decibelimeter.

Denso tape does work well on Asbestos cement sheets, brush away loose crud and rub it down well to get hold.

It might be that you "can" but do you really want to? If you sell it might put buyers off, especially if it became a long treck to the back garden. Only do it if your kitchen is small and you really really need the extra bit of wall space created by turning a door into a window.

I suspect it's the sea air? I am 3 miles from the sea and garage door faces north. My integral garage is never damp, my tools don't rust, bits of wood stored in the garage remain mould free. My classic car in there stays dry and fresh. The garage is well insulated, the wall make up is pretty much the same as the house, but I did not bother with an air tight membrane. 2G version of the same windows we have in the house (3g). A reasonable but not expensive pedestrian door and an "insulated" roller door. One difference is my garage was under the size that mandated air bricks for ventilation, so I have none. The only ventilation is the trickle vents in the windows and the leaks around the roller door, and the letter box in the pedestrian door.

Except the reality of where we are now is way ahead of where the "realists" (and even the optimists) thought we would be. The UK has shifted 10% (from 10 to 20%) of it's primary energy away from fossil fuels to renewables is under 15 years. Pakistan did similar in a little under 10 years. We still have a way to go but the two big prizes are the electrification of heat and transport. Which account for over half of our current consumption. Both of those could be achieved (switched to electrification for the majority of uses - there will always be edge cases like a remote highland cottage or heavy haulage to remote locations that will be hard/impossible to switch) by 2050. Few cars or boilers bought before 2030 will be in service then. Maybe 10%. So if we stopped selling/installing by 2030 - which there are no technical barrier to doing so (in the majority of cases) the problem will solve itself. And to power all that renewably our current renewable capacity has to triple. Which was the plan - no new boiler installs from 2030 and no ice car sales from 2030 either. Plus a tripling of our renewable capacity. It was planned for. Manufacturers were making investments to meet those targets etc. And then certain people started pushing the "it's impossible, it's too expensive, what about the poor people?!, it's woke nonsense..." Etc lines and suddenly those plans are watered down or shelved Meanwhile diesel is climbing above 1.90 for the second time this year despite the Iran war being declared over for the upteenth time this year and the UK is still dependent on imported petrol/diesel for 40% of it's transport.

I have just started to clear out my shed so that I can replace it. Just about everything in it has mould or rust. Timber going mouldy is a tricky one, some just attracts it, other timbers don't. Ventilation and keeping the RH low is the only answer. The easy way to do that is with heating and a small wall fan. You could try a tray of water softener salt, that absorbs what when the RH is above 50%

Quick recap: 300m from sea (south coast) Garage faces the sea I want to use my garage as a workshop but, having just cleaned mould off a bunch of pine timber (stacked with spacers in between), and selected more MDF to take to the tip as it's mouldy, it's not in a fit state yet. Normally I'd think "ventilation" but: even with brush strips added the up-and-over garage door is nowhere near draughtproof there's a 12"x12" air brick next to the door So then I thought "damp": no damp is coming up through the floor - I've done the paper-on-floor check I also painted the floor with single pack garage paint when we moved in but I do wonder if driving rain / general mist and damp air gets in via the air brick and around the garage door And if damp, salt-laden air gets in and leaves the salt behind, that keeps everything a bit moist. The metal garage door means big temperature swings inside on sunny days, as it heats up. My thinking is that replacing the garage door, with a wall and door or anything more airtight, would improve things. But before I do anything, what's BuildHub's diagnosis? Am I chasing the wrong problem?

Thanks, I thought it would be OK, and I will remember not to invite you around to cook, though. Cheers bud

It does not water tank and also radiators

Not tried it on asbestos but Denso tape worked brilliant on some corrugated sheets that had rust holes

Would you not prefer a 4" floor drain? I used one once fits straight inside 4"pipe. But yeh wouldn't need a vent.

That's not going to need a separate vent as a 50mm bath waste can run 4m without venting and a shower runs much slower. If that was a WC sat on that 100mm pipe instead of the shower trap there would be no question. However, consider a) access for cleaning the trap and that bit of 50mm pipe plus b) the 100mm branch cannot connect to the main stack closer than 450mm from the invert of the rest bend at the base of the stack.

CT1 is a favourite on this site.

If this is a question about means of escape in case of fire, then kitchens are excepted from the requirement for ground floor habitable rooms to have an escape route through a hallway or a suitable window. Mind you I'd think about making that replacement window suitable to get out of anyway (especially given my cooking abilities!).

I have a kitchen with an existing exit door to the garden + a door to the hallway and an open space to the lounge. Can I replace the exit door with a window only? Thanks

Hi, Would like some advice on how best to seal up this crack in a corrugated asbestod roof which is letting in water to the area behind. The surface is a stable paint finish. TIA