All Activity

I missed this post, good resources. Shall have a play with them when I have more time.

My PHPP version is ancient, so I can't take that as a guide, but I wonder what data their current climate files are based on. Is it still a historic analysis, or a forward projection? The projected climate of the 205s will look shockingly different to historic data from the 1990s. I think that PHPP uses EnergyPlus weather files (.epw); if so then I'd suggest using the University of Bath forecast data; see my post here:

I'd give the pump threads and washer faces a good smear of Jet Blue Plus. Each to their own on goopy tub stuff but it's my goto. I use it mainly on compression fittings and find I don't need PTFE tape. The stuff stops that horrible brass squeak noise, let's you nip a bit tighter and fills any little voids, it's just wonderful. No more weepy joints here.

Take that with a big pinch of salt. Consider what that document is actually telling you, which is that if you stay inside for “a few” days a year, you’ll be clinging to life (not just a little uncomfortable). I had the same argument (robust discussion) with a PH certified architectural practice, and beat the lead architect by 1%. PHPP just focuses on the building, and nigh-on ignores the poor buggers locked inside. This particular client then abandoned the £1k they’d invested in the architects recommended M&E designer and went with me, with said architects blessing. When I finished picking apart their proposal, the chap simply said “if all else fails, then you can just fit 2x AC units and that’ll fix any issues” ffs. The list of faux pas was long. They’re no longer the clients architect…as they politely disengaged soon after, with a boatload of the clients money gone forever. Unfortunately, most folk simply don’t know what lays ahead, but it is very difficult to convey this to someone such as myself, who’s coming from fossil fuel heating in a poor performing current residence, as to the new and different way in which they will find themselves then living. Oh, what a difference there is! Like night and day different. Consider how horrible a summer is in your (and my) current home, and then multiply it x3.

+1

The spade is for me to dig my own hole, if the house floods when he pulls the pump out

Haha. Maybe, but not expecting to need AC. If the PHPP calcs are correct then the house will only exceed 25°C for a few days a year.

Apologies, it’s late. I don’t buy cheap, so would go towards recommendations from colleagues who install this stuff on a day to day basis. If it’s one summer room or garden office, I’d recommend a cheap and cheerful, best-of-the-worst Chinese offering. For one current client (>£1.5m) I would only recommend going with one of the big hitters, LG / Samsung / Daikin / Fujitsu / Panasonic etc. This is because of after sales support, parts procurement, more robust installer network / longevity and quality of the kit and so on. To be less evasive, I look at kit to suit a remit, and as I don’t directly install domestic AC I don’t have a go-to manufacturer, specifically, as a blanket solution. I do, however, have some excellent strategic partners who I reach out to in my hour(s) of need. Ive lost count of how many times I’ve recommended a particular piece of equipment or a manufacturer, and then during the construction phase I’ve said that “we’re not going with that any more, and here’s why!”. I maintain, the shoe must fit, so each client gets a few offerings laid out in front of them (“bronze, silver, gold”), and the pros cons and caveats explained comprehensively for each option, and then they are in a position to be left alone to make their own, informed decision based on the information that I’ve gathered and shared.

Bucket and towels Leave the spade for the beach

Ok, I'll try again; do you have a preferred manufacturer? (or ones you automatically avoid)

The correct one for the particular instance, of course! I don’t copy / cut / paste, so each job starts on a clean bit of A4. Not lost a patient yet.

@Nickfromwales what's your preferred AC solution?

Exactly what I’m doing for 2 current new build clients. The more I look into it, after a bit over 10 years focussing my interests in the “PH” arena, the more and more this makes absolutely perfect sense.

@jfb Get your wellies ready son, we’re going in…..

Not the stems, just the pump nuts. Also, brass doesn’t rust so it’s the pump that’s corroding not the valves. Very likely the original pump has those nasty rigid washers, not the modern, more compliant rubber ones. Dog. Bone. 🤣

There were 3 proposed pylon routes near us. One of them DID put a pylon, yes a pylon, not a wooden pole (i have those already) directly behind my house, circa 150 ft from my back window, in my field. Fortunately they have moved on to an alternative (read cheaper) plan. For now, Until that runs into the sand. So may get resurrected yet. If it does i get £1500. Great, as though thats recompense for effectively making my house worthless. Apparantly i should suck it up, its all for net zero. For as long as nothing is built, the house is effectively unsellable, as theres always the risk it comes back. Undergrounding isnt 4-5 times more expensive, unless you read the reports from the companies who are gaining planning for the pylons. Is it more expensive, yes, but nothing like the figures quoted. None of that matters, its only about how much money can be extracted. The environment doesnt figure on the list of concerns. We are not the south east, so, thus expendable. Its all very easy to say its a necessary blight, when it doesnt affect you.

What a faff! Just install AC and enjoy the cool house. 😉

Yeah but they look a bit leaky!!! Perhaps that's just me!!!

@NCXo82ike Have you not thermally decoupled the steel from the concrete? I use different products to achieve this, with Bosig Phonotherm on the most recent clients project. If the steels are already in, then defo look at a spray foam, but box the areas you wish to insulate, using release agent, and fill the voids. Then remove the boxing in to make way for bonding on Marmox boards to then accept plaster skim coat + paint.

Likewise, but these aren’t original-looking, old ass valves in the op. You know I’m like a dog with a bone so this one’s worth a bit of (maybe mis) adventure afaic. “What if they work?” 👀

I hear you but in my experience the pump valves have normally been in a heck of a lot longer than the current pump and are normally badgered Time before last when I replaced a pump the valves were badgered and I did it with the acceptance of some water leakage The next time I replace the pump I did pump and valves with a partial drain down - when that pump failed the valves held with the next pump replacement Caveat - I've been in this house since 1991 so it not like I've burnt thro pumps

If it helps, the SVP can be reduced to 3” after the last WC is picked up. It’s only carrying air at that stage so capacity is no longer a factor. You can still T in a sink / bath / shower etc to the reduced SVP, it’s just solids that aren’t ideal at the smaller diameter. You can actually have a single WC feed into 3” pipe, but nobody does it.

Defo.

My view and experience with MVHR is don't expect any cooling from it. Chilling slab is an all day affair - low and slow wins the day. Maybe better, once house is warmer than outside open all the windows, when outside is warmer than inside do the opposite. Keep floor temp cooler than 20 all the time, boost floor cooling if room get over 23. Leave the MVHR to do it thing, no place for home assistant, just set it up at commissioning and leave to run.

Yes, but what exactly is the point in fitting pump isolation valves, if you change them every time you change the pump? May as well just hard plumb the pumps at that stage. Worth seeing if they hold as it's a basement or summat by the look of it, so a few drops of water ain't gonna hurt, but the changeover will be a 30 min job.