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Should add in geospatial to that. What we do know is that global temperatures are higher than the long term average, so more energy in the system. We also know that global absolute humidity is higher than long term averages, so more water available. We also know that the key parts of the Pacific are higher than long term averages, so a larger unbalanced heat source. We also know that Arctic Polar Ice is lower than normal, so a smaller heat sink.

Not sure about that, some people or a lot of people see Aircon and see £££ bills. Having lived with almost mandatory Aircon (hot country) for a few years, I am not a fan of it.

Titon HRV10 Q Plus, £250 delivered Titon HRV1.75 Q plus, £320. Retail was is about £1300 for the smaller one and £1500 for the large one.

I think people would be worried about the unfamiliarity of it because we're all somewhat cavemanish when it comes to our houses. Mind you a few weeks of no sleep in 30deg bedrooms in conventionally heated houses this year might broaden people's imaginations.

After feeding the AI a little and trying to decipher the nonsense I've concluded that the risk presented by rain, wind and cold are lightly to be about 6% worse than normal. Something like 1997/98 for where i live. Making long range weather forecasts from climate changes is like predicting the exact path of the ball for 90mins from just studying the team sheets before kickoff. Most lightly a waste of time.

I dont think anyone looking at a house in future would be put off with a2a. So should suit op?

It must be volume production economics. I remember people saying how simple mvhr units are inside.

Back to OP's original q. We didn't install any heating but relied on a plug in radiator for a couple of years until the electricity price rocketed, enter stage left the Daikin FTXM25R. A2A is a wondrous thing, cheap to install, cheap to run and simple to use. Heating and cooling and it cannot leak as there's no water. We have one in the downstairs hallway, nothing else, give it long enough to run and it'll keep the house ( passive class) appropriately toasty. (Bathrooms need a small boost with a fan heater for comfort. One worry I'd have is that it wouldn't cool the upstairs as much as cool air tends to sink and warm air rises but I've never had cause to try. Sensibly sized bedroom windows, all rooms with cross ventilation and the south of Ireland doesn't suffer England type nighttime temps. In your situation and wanting to allay fears of future saleability I'd do UFH with cooling throughout as mentioned earlier. If it were me I'd do a 70mm duct and a fused spur in a hallway upstairs and downstairs and move in and install A2A as an when you felt it necessary and spend the saved cash on the fabric of the building.

The Zehnder Q450 from HSL was £2651 and the Brink Flair 600 from CVC was £2510. Design required flow for my house is 320 m3/h but CVC say they nevertheless recommend a 600 m3/h unit, which they say gives less noise, greater efficiency and longer fan life. I bought a Worcester Greenstar 4000 25 kW combi boiler in 2022 which cost me £666, but that was with a trade discount. Current online price is about £1500. So I tend to agree, these MVHRs look expensive. Prices from people like CVC and HSL are without a trade discount.

It’s only for the walls (just realised I only said ‘cladding’ in the first post).

What angle is your roof pitch? I wouldn’t use wooden shingles if it’s not steep

What did you pay for your bare units? What do they rrp for?

Both our kitchen and utility sinks are stainless steel and will be undermounted to quartz worktop. We have asked for the worktop cut outs to be sized to match the sink bowl without an overhang. Partly preference, partly because we will have hook over sink accessories, partly to preserve the bowl size for ease of use. So I am wondering how we can ensure that the worktop fitters seal the join between the sink and the worktop in a clean and tidy manner ? We have been thinking use a clear silicon sealant, but should we be masking up the edge of the sink bowl with masking tape before they come to fit ? Should we get the silicon ourselves ? I have seen references to sinks being sealed to the worktop with the worktop placed upside down - however I severely doubt that the fitters are remotely likely to do such a thing ? The island has a sink and is 3m by 1m and 30mm quartz - they were indicating it would take 5 people to carry it in. The sinks are currently on supporting framework in the units so I imagine they will just want to silicon the sink and drop the worktop onto the top ? How can we ensure we end with a nice tidy seal between sink and worktop ?

A like from @Nickfromwales so that's a deal then.

It is also stabilising the walls, linking them and stiffening the whole structure. Not being a timber frame expert I was surprised to find out that twist nails were the expected fixing and widely available. Our joiners knew this and were happy. They are clearly fast and easy to fix. That's for experienced joiners... a mouthful of nails, tap tap wham. I'd be very slow. But if you haven't room to swing the hammer then screws are fine but do get either a spec from a designer or approval from bco. The twist is to prevent pull-out so you'll need a coarse threaded screw. Then you can use a drill and a 90° attachment if necessary.

The lower end of the pricing scale is for DIY systems generally. Definitely doable but you need to know what you’re getting in to and it’s not that difficult for a new build when the walls and floors are open. A lot harder when you’re working around existing plumbing and cables for a retrofit.

Yep I was quoted £10k for single storey 193m². So just waited for things to be the right price. Less than £2k for me fully installed and commissioned. Spending any more than that is money you will never recoup in energy savings. You may as well go for a smart MEV or dMEV system. Yep, I went Titon HRV, well built robust, never switched off unless I am servicing.

On that particular project it wasn't too much of an issue as it was just alterations. We moved a kitchen to another room and removed a wall. So an officer just needed eyes on a new drain and sight of a concrete lintel, following officer just needed to see the job completed. Not much room to input their personal opinions! But I can imagine on a whole house build where many multiply regulations need to be met then it can open to different officers wanting different things.

What boiler? A £450 biasi, or a £2k+ super boiler? You can go cheap seats or “buy once buy right”, same with a car, same with a pair of shoes. Look on air-haus.co.uk (CVC’s box-shifting site) and look for yourself what is available and for what price suits your budget, but for a machine / system that you switch on the day you move in, and NEVER switch it off ever again, I’d buy sensibly and robustly. Anything sewn deep into the fabric of the house should see more thought than the kitchen imho, and the budget should be created accordingly, however some people begrudge this for whatever daft reason. 🤷‍♂️

How much is a mvhr unit alone to service 150m2 vs a boiler to do the same? What would a boiler be 1000 or less?

It does sound like a bells and whistles job. I dare say the house is worth over a million quid though pretty high spec. Mine will deffo be diy, last one was. I won't be having the plaster in vents.

They’re not. Price a full central heating system with 2 floors of pipework and radiators, valves and controls, plus the boiler, and labour. Or better still, only compare apples with apples lol If you want MVHR for <£5k then you’ll be going DIY for sure. The above install, start to absolute finish with nearly all vents being the very nice plaster-in ones, and no compromise / everything upsized for redundancy and absolute silent operation etc, will be well north of 5 figures, (and the first number is a 2 btw). It’s a large, very contemporary dwelling, vaulted ceilings throughout, and you cannot tell the house has MVHR as I’ve put a huge amount of time and effort into making it so. Some clients see value in this level of finesse, others do not; “horses for courses”, and the price goes up or down (significantly) to suit. My next ‘task’ is to complete the hideaway AC install and set all the plaster-in vents for these 5 ducted units. I am having to hand-craft snorkels and ductwork out of 20mm XPS insulated backer boards, where 3 units share the same ‘cupboard’ so they remain “room sealed”…….I am making rectangular boxes as accumulators / diverters and am even going to the lengths of forming radiuses out of pieces of XPS to guide airflow and keep these as quiet as possible; oddly us human being will tolerate some audibility from cooling as we just hate being too hot, whereas any noise from MVHR is usually intolerable to the point of distraction. 1st one is now done and it’s a thing of beauty, so only 4 more left to hand make (in the smallest places we could shoe horn them into ). Joy 🥳.

Just check that one or both of the 47mm or 63mm are not nominal dimensions if you are asking for something to be cut/planed to your exact parameters. 47mm is usually a nominal dimension on C24 and would be more like 45mm "in real life", for example. If the existing rafters are 47mm or 63mm wide nominal, then you are probably looking at getting a 47mm x 200mm or 63mm x 100mm (or 150mm, or 200mm, etc.) C24 and ripping the boards down on a suitable table saw. Just call up any local C24 suppliers and ask if they are able to rip the boards to your dimensions. Plenty of suppliers and sawmills in Staffordshire depending on your exact location and whether you want delivery or are collecting.

I've known that to be a problem when they have individual preferences and opinions, greater or lesser knowledge, or showing off how tough or clever they are. Maybe it's less risky re stage inspections. In your case do you have a formal proposal for them to consider, or wanting advice? You said above that you have sent them information. Can you tell us more?