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I have seen people add sprinklers to get over width and length access issues in roads. The roads were always basically accessible though. Best thing to do is direct contact with your local authority, it’s a replacement dwelling so anything you can do to improve the situation would be looked at kindly unless you get a bad planning officer.

But remember MVHR only changes house air every 2 to 3 hours, so in cooling/heating terms pretty rubbish.

Please help me understand? A fan takes the internal (24°C) air out, through a heat exchanger. It partially cools the incoming air currently at 33°C If house is cooler than outside The heat exchanger is a counter current one, so the air entering the heat exchanger from the house and leaving the exchanger to enter house are at the same end. This gives an approach temp that is very close. So if air in house is say 22 the air being pushed into house will be sat 23/24. So will warm house up over many hours. Warmer inside than outside the air is warmed to very close to the inside air temp, this will cool the house but very slowly - many hours. In summer a bypass around heat exchanger operates to allow cooler outside air to by go around the heat exchanger.

Depends on your unit. They can be between 60 and 90% efficient. 33-24 = 9 9 x 0.1 = 0.9 0.9 + 24 = 24.9 incoming temp in the 90% efficient case? (not 100% sure I've done this right but you get the idea). The air from outside will inevitably be warmer than the inside air in this situation, but would be much less warm than just opening the windows and blowing the outside air in.

Me too. It's remarkable how a very small leak will spread far and wide. If all your dampness was somehow collected, would it fill a bucket? No. A mug? Maybe. And that's been over a year or more. It could be just one pinprick of a hole in the mastic, if you could find it. @ProDave tarpaulin is such a good idea too. Simple and likely to be effective, and protects the mastic.

Please help me understand? A fan takes the internal (24°C) air out, through a heat exchanger. It partially cools the incoming air currently at 33°C. What temp is the incoming air likely to be? I'm not understanding how that helps. I have to admit to scepticism in general, from a decade ago when mvhr systems were mostly inefficient bodges which the reps couldn't, or wouldn't, explain apart from ticking a sustainability box. We've gone Spanish. A bit of work outdoors early. 12 til 5 indoors. Evening outside. Dinner later than usually. (Football agony at midnight.) Curtains and blinds closed according to sun movement.

I can work BUT Flow rates are pretty much multiple times higher than normal MVHR flow rates as set for BR or Passivhaus. Download datasheets read water flow temp requirements, air flow required and kW of cooling output

I was prepping a strip foundation for a retaining wall yesterday. Lost count of the number of litres of water I drank. Finished it early this morning before it got more scorchio. No concrete until next week. Its just too effing hot and I can't be arsed watering it while it dries

accumulating snow actually build height, and I can make it piss down. Best bit I can blend between weathers. So snow will melt as it gets wet as blended to rain. Rain will dry as its blended to a sunny day. TBH it does look AAA. Masses of optimisations to do as chat's been fibbing a bit.

I'm intending to replace an existing dwelling with a new build home. The existing access track is over 100m in length, about 3m wide with a maximum gradient of 1 in 10 (although most of it is less steep) and is metaled with crushed stone. Due to the size, slope and nature of the site there is very little scope to widen it or the existing 8m x 8M turning/parking area at the top or add a new access from elsewhere. I believe there are various building regulation requirements regarding access that may be hard or impossible to comply with regarding width, steepness and emergency vehicle access. Does anyone else have experience or knowledge of similar issues and potential ways of remediating them ? The existing dwelling is built using heavily creosoted timber railway sleepers - so in my view it's ongoing use as a dwelling constitutes an existing fire hazard - though I'm doubtful application of the regulation will take any account of that !

It's a bit like a classic car. Keep it under cover so the only time it gets rained on is when on holiday. Even a tarpaulin or custom made cover would achieve that. (see my car port thread and why it is so high, to get the camper under)

(expletive deleted)er just told me to stop arguing!!! WTF!

Tried that.

Could I do it? Is a good test. I might be very slow, but if I could do it then so can they, faster and sometimes better... especially if watched.

Or reused. I don't usually look that far ahead. Some future creature will analyse it and call it the chip shop gas well, from the "Humans Age."

More likely a chemical reaction between the wet concrete and the boards.

Definitely an important point (which was the caveat in my previous statement though not expressed as such). I'm always thinking about keeping the details to something I would be able to do myself. If/when it comes to the build I don't intend to do everything (though a substantial part) but by keeping that in mind I want to keep the options open depending on contractors and skills available when it comes to it. Having said that, laying UFH is very DIYable and likely to lead to a better result than an uncaring contractor. Installing rebar on the other hand is more challenging and have a contractor come in with lots of heavy rebar after the UFH is laid would be a reason not to do it that way. This is a good point, I've tended to lean the other way (less concrete/rebar if possible) in order to keep the embedded carbon down. Though a thicker simpler slab is likely easier.

bigger plantpot = what stain 🤣

I've taken old motorhomes apart in the past and the mould that you find trapped inside the ceiling/wall structure is horrific. If it's an old motorhome and it's in an area that can't be easily seen ie on the roof, then I would just bodge a load of sealant over the top of the existing joints. Give them a clean first to get the grime off but that's all. The problem is that you will probably never identify exactly where the water is coming from as it will roll around across the roof inside the lining front to back and side to side and can come through pretty much anywhere in the van. You could spend a very long time carefully removing the old sealant in the bit where you think it is when it's actually elsewhere. An old motorhome isn't worth much on the second hand market (they are a lot easier to steal and break into than modern ones and they also guzzle fuel in a way that is very hard to sustain in today's economy), so I wouldn't worry about the future resale value of it. Just do the minimum to try and stop it getting worse and then enjoy using it. Stripping out and replacing the ply and insulation in the walls/ceiling is a very major undertaking that you will wish you had never started. 10k is actually a very low price for this so I would be concerned about how well it would be done.

I'd try a bathroom / kitchen limescale remover.

It was caused by "concrete"? Yeah, right! 😉

That was what I liked about these videos - the attention to detail. They got their sub base to within =/-5mm of level across an odd-shaped site and it was interesting to see how they did that. Just as an example of how it can be done by two fit strong young people with youth on their side. So probably nothing there that I can take away really.

Someone lazy in our household left concrete blocks on the decking for some considerable time . On removing them get these white marks . Tried cleaning them with various things but won’t budge . This permanent or can be removed ? Some people ! Buy materials ; leave them for a bit and then cause more work . I don’t know ! Tsh !

How so? All MVHR does is try to maintain any temperature difference between inside and outside. If it's cooler inside than out on a hot day, then MVHR will help. Or are you thinking about how MVHR would (or wouldn't!) work in your draughty house?

If you have MVHR then in the ductwork just before the unit. If you don't, then it gets tricky. A hallway used to be the place that thermostats were placed, but that was pointless as in the 'olden days' people keeps interconnecting doors closed. Really a case of monitoring where you think there will be a problem i.e. floor in living room or kitchen. Place the monitor close to the problem area as it is common to have a temperature and RH height gradient in a room.