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Has anyone successfully ran any length of soil pipe perpendicular in pozi joists? Im thinking each cord being around 45mm gives you 135mm between so 25mm. Maybe gives you room for a couple of metres of fall at 1:80 if you can specify the metal webs to give you room. Just considering the design of something and which way to run joists. I've also seen jobs where the joists stop short of the wall by a couple of hundred mm and sit on a trimmer like a staircase. Maybe there's even some obscure pipe size you can use for waste like 90mm od?

Replace with for for.

I've watched this thread for a while, and for what it's worth thought I would try to translate some of what's been said, one layman to another... I believe it is now widely recognised that on/off blocks of heating are not the most efficient way to heat any house. Instead, the system is "always on": what were the "off times" are just set to a lower target temperature ("set-back"). For example, the thermostat can be set to a target room temperature of 16 degrees during the day and the set-back target of 14 degrees overnight. Especially important for any building that is not well insulated as heat will leak and on the coldest days may not recover to the required daytime temperature. Others can correct me, but because the heating system is "low and slow" (design, not fault) the lower set-back temperature setting should probably not be more than 2 degrees or so below the daytime temperature setting. This gives rooms a chance to reach the higher daytime target temperature. For the same low and slow reason, the target temperature should be set at the higher level a couple of hours or so before you get up; it can then be set to drop a couple of hours before bedtime for rooms to cool. For example: 00.00 - 04.00 17 degrees (setback target, not off!) 04.00 - 21.00 19 degrees (daytime target) 21.00 - 00.00 17 degrees (setback target, not off!) If the thermostat is in the warmest place in the house it will never fully impact the coldest place. If it is currently with the hot water cylinder which will leak heat, the coldest parts don't stand a chance of warming up, as it will turn the radiators off. That's why Nick and others have suggested getting the controller/thermostat moved if possible, probably to the coldest room or the one you use the most (not a bedroom), or getting a remote one which take with you to whichever room you use. That room will then define if your heating has reached the required temperature. As all the others have said, this does work, even in an uninsulated house. BUT it takes time to get to that point in the first place and yes, the radiators will be on permanently for days until the room reaches the target temperature. The reason is that the solid walls are cold and damp, and so suck the heat out of the air. Only when the walls are dryer and beginning to warm, will you start to feel the warmth in the air without having to sit on a radiator. Having the radiators on for just 4 hours per day does not give this process a chance. You can speed this process up by using another heat source alongside the radiator system. A dehumidifier may also help (comment/correction welcome on that one!). To keep costs to a minimum the system should be run this way right from the end of summer when the walls are at their driest and warmest (as already suggested). (Even our 9" solid wall 1926 semi takes time to feel warm after we've been away for a while, and I have to turn the heating on a couple of days before we go back (it's set to 13 degrees while away, and then a similar schedule to the above when we're there.) At the end of the day, the decisions I suggest you need to make, and only you can do this, are: · Do you trust that people on this forum are only trying to help (hint: yes!!), and are generally more knowledgeable than many installers (in the majority of my experience, definitely, and I have benefitted from the advice on this forum) · Are you willing to try what they suggest even if it doesn't make sense to you? I suggest suspending your understandable need to understand for now and just try! · What is you comfort to price ratio? By that I mean that greater warmth will cost more; would you be happy with, say 16 degrees daytime and 14 degrees nighttime, or spend more money for greater warmth, or less for less? Hope that helps maybe clarify a few bits: good luck...

Or a U-Value of 0.35 W.m-2.K-1. U = 1 /R. Half the BR's wall regulations. Mineral/Rock wools, at 135mm thickness is 0.3 W.m-2.K-1 (at a k-value of 0.04 W.m-1.K-1. So not really sure what to make of that claim, other than they have somehow factored in ventillation losses.

Pro Clima are the manufacturer. Tescon Vana is the product. there's other's in the line that deal with different things, like around windows we used the Tescon Profil. if you do a quick search on here you'll find a wealth of information!

Is Vana the same as Pro Clima?

You cannot join a WC in a Y. You will need ICs. These are best outside the footprint. Why the soil pipe in bedroom 03? As above, you need to work out your levels and take it from there. Design the runs as shallow as possible with a fall of 1:50.

+1 for Sigma. I purchased this https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/montolit-63p5xl-masterpiuma-p5-power-5-manual-tile-cutter-63cm

+1 to this! It was a revelation when I was told about it.

Tescon Vana tape bought from LATZEL Dämmstoffe. Was about €20 a roll when I last bought.

As mentioned above a slow ramp is good, it's energy efficient. Fast ramp in flow temp requires a lot of energy. The way to operate a boiler is exactly the opposite to what you want to achieve. Reduce flow temperature let everything run longer, minimise boiler wear on boiler and longer steady state running. The house will benefit from a more stable temperature. Our Atag you can adjust how quickly it accelerated to max temperature, even doing DHW I had it dialed right back. It would take 20 minutes to get to 60 degrees, by that time the cylinder was at 52 degs and the boiler returned to heating the house. Slow accelerate spends the max time in high efficiency maximum condensation mode. Fast acceleration spends the least time. Think you are now in the making issues for yourself mode. Yes make a cup of coffee or tea and read the paper, or take the dog for a walk. Stop making issues out of normal behaviour. LLH - no Additional pumps - no Get on with life - yes.

No worries! 😊 Yeah, that's one option, but will double up the amount of timber in need to use. I will keep this option in my back pocket. Only good enough to use as loft storage to get things out of the way instead of having to make a shed or get a half container. I was wondering whether I could get away with 50mm bearing and even if it's 75-80mm that should be fine, which means I could get the joists in place with a small amount of bearing on existing wall plates and then bolt additional wall plates to the wall immediately below for the rest of the required bearing. I think this might be the solution.

I've just started replacing a couple of windows. Previously I'd used SIga Wigluv black tape, and I can confirm that after nearly ten years it's still perfectly adhered and has done its job perfectly. It's flippin expensive though. I can get e.g. Illbruck ME315 for a third of the price, and it also seems very highly regarded. I'd be interested to hear what tapes other people have used and how you would rate them.

A low loss header is not going to be the solution for getting your system to heat up faster. What is responsible for getting heat into your house from your boiler is mean water temperature, driven by the boiler. You've got more than enough output available from the boiler to do this. Now, with 8000 I have heard feedback that it takes a while until it ramps up to max output when the heating is initially turned on. First, test this by doing some gas rates. When you turn on your system from cold - go to the meter and take a reading at the same time as starting your stopwatch. At 2 minutes, take another reading. Then do this say 10 minutes later, and again after 10 minutes. By all means post up the before and after figures so we can do the calcs. If you want immediate feedback, you can do the first gas rate and then put the boiler into chimney mode and max. then do another gate rate and calculate the difference. So again, to do a gas rate: Have boiler running Take meter reading and start stopwatch at the same time At 2 minutes, take meter reading again and post up results. What we want to find out is if the boiler is programmed to run at a lower output for a period before ramping up to maximum output and how long this takes under normal running conditions. Ideally we want to do this with all the settings at default, before you've amended anything like pump setting etc. As an approach to heating there is the idea that not ramping the boiler up to max output immediately provides energy savings as well as reducing overall wear and tear on the boiler itself. ATAG, for example, has for years had an approach where it starts on minimum output and slowly ramps up output over a long period of time. Others will modulate too rather than put everything in at once. The conclusion we may end up with is that you have to put the heating on earlier to get it to temp for when you want it and change your behaviour and expectations. If it does turn out that it takes a while to reach its max output and that this is just a feature of the boiler, it's not really something you can put on the installer because it's unlikely they knew about this when specifying the boiler as it's unlikely WB made this explicit. The gas boiler industry and market have unfortunately been complicit in the de-skilling of the heating engineer industry for the last few decades, as, of course, they know best.....

Agreed ITS technologies are fine. They supplied our solar and a sunsynk inverter and batteries. One of the cheapest suppliers around.

Neither seem sympathetic or practical tbh, and you need to work out where you can practically add internal rodding access. In reality, this is not very practical so I'd steer away from that solution. You can have clear water branched into foul runs as long as they are swept connections to join the flow from a WC. Aim to combine some of the connections and just get 110mm pipes to WC's first, then look to see what you can pick up with 50mm pipes bossed into the 110mm runs. Combine as much as you can to a chamber offset from your main entrance, as it's a bit of an eyesore if immediately outside the front door, slap-bang in the hard landscaping. Have as much pipework under the slab as you like, there's no issues there; do what works best and cover it over, and get on with life. Avoid the connections to the chamber that come in against the direction of flow, as you suggest some which are too far from best practice. No Y junctions under the slab unless it's a straight run and its chamber to rodding access, or unless it's taking bath / shower / basin wastes, as these are considered clear (grey) water without solids. This changes for kitchen and utility, as these are considered to have solids (food waste etc) being discharged from them, so are treated like foul connections; if no internal rodding access, then these need to be arrow straight runs directly to an outdoor chamber.

I own both Rubi (dry and wet) and Sigma (dry). The Sigma is hands down the best cutter I've ever owned. It's also an industry go-to, so you should be able to sell it on without too much of a loss. This will do you nicely, I have the larger one. LINK

I'm in need of a tile cutter and looking for recommendations please. It's going to used for various porcelain wall tiles, probably with a depth no greater than 12mm. Mostly 600mm*300mm. We're not planning any tiles with diagonal face cuts. This is going to be a tool I'm going to use over the next few months then sell, so something that would be sought after secondhand would be good. Rubi, Sigma? So many models it's confusing?

Best of luck with your heating bloke this morning Zoot the hoot.

And what if the "pro chap" is wrong? Thats perfectly plausible. A "professional" company told me I needed a 12kw heat pump when my calculations said 8kw was my heat loss. I put in a 7kw pump and the house has sat at 21 degrees since mid September. Not all professionals are as professional as they should be so maybe have a rethink on what people are saying in this thread, some of whom I believe are professionals. Don't forget the professionals that have managed to heat to old stone building linked to previously. Google historic England or the energy saving trust for lots more examples.....they're all professionals

I’ve found this guidance, https://info.labcwarranty.co.uk/hubfs/Technical downloads/LABCW Y-junctions under buildings.pdf So this means the top option should be achievable as long as I include access/ rodding points. The treatment plant will be as close to the building as permits. It has to be on that north side due to land ownership/ a 200mm water main elsewhere

Use a strong magnet (search Amazon) it will find all the screws attaching the plasterboard to the studwork and, if strong enough, the metal stud work itself.

If they contract, it's their responsibility for compliance, not the clients.

Stop it! 🤦‍♂️

make sure they understand the local Highways Dept requirements for licenses and specification.