All Activity

That's because everyone is brain washed by plumbers wanting to install 30kW+ boilers. Doesn't that far out. MCS start doing 2 or 3 ach which soon racks up the heat loss. Your calculations assumes the room above is also heated, which is fine if it is. And should be with ASHP anyway.

I love those RedRhino! There are some in Amsterdam that are great too, but I just like how the ones you posted are similar but so unique. I hate the cookie cutter houses. You also could head to Graven Hill in Bicester for a british version of this for inspiration. I’ve designed a few for there and I think it all turned out quite interesting. Bit of a mess but lots of ideas.

Effectively completely ignore the GSE instructions, they are not applicable to a sarking board roof. Attach the trays direct to the sarking, through the membrane

Many thanks. I'll try to do it properly first time round. Should I be cutting into the grill so that the pipes definitively exit into the drain and not onto the slabs?

You have self balanced actuators, maybe it was just going through a learning period, some can take quite awhile. With SQ610, you have a setting that optimises control to the Salus self balancing valves. Go on to Google and search for the full instructions for the SQ610, not the quick guide that comes with the thermostat.

One per vessel, so 1x red, plus 2 (or 3) for the white vessels.

The house is currently going through planning for changes from the original design. In the meantime I’m trying to get my head around the Scottish way of doing a few things. Standard traditional roof construction from what I understand is as follows, Truss Sarking boards Breathable membrane State Now if I’m having built in GSE solar trays, my understanding is we will have to do following, Truss Sarking boards breathable membrane Counter batten Tile batten Slate Is this correct? It’s okay to have the membrane flat with no slack or would membrane go on top of counter batten and be droopy? Trying to create a thin verge without any facia so looking how to achieve this on the gable ends. cheers

Time to radically reform the system. As reported in https://www.parliament.uk/globalassets/documents/commons-committees/public-accounts/2018-07-09 - MHCLG Report to the PAThe Role of International Evidenc.pdf

We have a similar two-part construction on the windows on the S facing wall. Gets a lot of rain and we have a similar small water ingress problem when it blows hard. This is on my list of snags to investigate. I note the "sealant in the corner" suggestion as a possible solution - thank you.

You're right; it is standard practice to use a non-return or waterless trap for the reason you mention, but Zehnder's instructions sometimes suggest otherwise. For example they require only a U-bend with water seal in the CA 200 manual, but a non-return trap on my more recent CA 225 model. Avoid a dedicated water trap as it's likely to dry out. A good illustration of the principle, although my CA 225 has a 20mm drain so requires an alternative pipe adapter. A hole drilled through a rubber bung is doing fine so far.

With the caveat that everyone's 'acceptable' varies, I've done similar in the past by clamping the tail in a workmate, so the whole edge is held securely against something with a small radius, then using a sheet of ply to apply an even force to the rest of the aluminium, ideally limiting how far the bottom of that ply can move away from the aluminium. Main thing is to be clamping the smaller side and working the larger side. I agree this is no substitute for paying for fabrication of course and you need to be sure you're not going to do more expensive damage than you might be saving

I did . Way to expensive.

This can be done depending on the car- our tesla is recognised so we get IOG despite the standard dumb 7kW charger. Check the compatible car list 👍

thanks both - I'm holding a follow up meeting with the supplier later today to discuss specs.

Thanks, I've been doing this since last night and have now come up with a 4.47kW total heatloss, a far cry from the 11.3kW the MCS company calculated. I will post a room result on here and open it up to critique, the 5kW or so does seem low to me. Let's take my study for example: 21c desired temp, -2c outside 2.5m high ceiling, 16sqm of external wall with a u value of 0.22 = 81 3sqm of triple glazing with a u value of 0.8 = 55 12sqm of concrete floor with a u value of 0.14 = 39 No heated room below, heated room above MVHR with 0.9 ACH at 80% efficiency = 41 Total heat loss for room 272, 18W/m2 Does this sound about right

Buy the correct aluminium capping pre made. You will not get a sharp bend without a proper bender, and depending on grade of aluminium it may crack.

What's wrong with PIR cavity insulation? It has a much better u value than rock wool, am I missing something? The combination of EWI and cavity is due to the extensions and current building regs, whilst getting the external finish flush with a complete thermal envelope. I don't need to but then the extended walls will stick out on the side which I don't want.

The houses are not owner occupied. Rather, they are built as show homes and typically have a room serving as an office for their sales rep. You can imagine the manufacturers host sales prospects as well as having the house open all site hours for anyone who walks up.

Personally, I'd get rid of the DC connection outside the driver and connect both DC supplies directly to the driver unit. I think there's plenty of space to do this in the Tagras. That way you've got less connections and LED strips can be a bit sensitive sometimes.

You really need a bending press or folder to get a proper finish in these kinds of things. If you're only doing a few, I'd recommend nipping down to your local metals supply place, ask to buy some off cuts and then bung them a few quid to shear and bend it all to your needs. They're usually happy to do this kind of thing. Once or twice I've also just nipped into a sheet metal fabricators and asked them if they have a few minutes spare. Never been turned away yet and you get quality.

Two useful videos here for anybody interested in more details on the Zehnder condensate requirements.

I think their planning is a lot more zoned than over here. I assume providing you build within certain parameters planning is automatically given. No silly planners going on about vernacular on a modern estate. You look at the quality of design of houses here before planning was brought in (1940s?) vs after. Which houses look better?

Got it. Is it just one I need? And where do these need fitting?

It's normally better to buy a finished house where you miss out the years of problems and the risks. Value wise, turnkey will be expensive too, and seldom any saving compared to buying a finished property to move into and enjoy. Self build and diy may reduce the cost but increase the risk.

Yes, I still do. I'm testing to figure out what is triggering the high temperature. Why it went as high as 23 degrees.