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My waste came with blue rubber blanks that have been useful for this. Or a washer cap from toolstation gives change from £2.

Hiya. The base brackets you show act as pins, they are just intended to carry vertical load only. They do have a minimal shear load capacity, but it is minimal. That (shear) is the load horizontal to the plane of the ground surface. The brackets you show are of minimal strength. To stop it moving sideways there are a number of different options. We can do a flat portal type of frame, often with knee braces. But this is going to introduce shear load into the brackets you show, they are not big enough and likely neither are the pads they rest on by the looks of things. The pads might be able to carry vertical load but not horizontal loading. Or you can fit a stiff floor and roof. These then act as a diaphragm and transfer the sideways loads back to the main house. But you have to check the main house can carry this extra load. To give you a better answer, with more explanation on how it works, need to see cross section drawings and a bit more of the house you are going to add load to if you use the diaphragm method. Ah like your idea. Quick story. When I was at uni one of my structures lecturers was into wood as a hobby. He used to buy tree trunks, cut them up into sizes in his garden, season the wood and make stuff. He did an extension with a curved vaulted ceiling in oak. To make it work he wanted to laminate the planks, turn them into a Glulam type beam We had remained in touch and once I started practising he asked me if I though I could prove this calculation wise. The answer is yes. I won't explain here but it's not too hard, if you know how to do it. This can be done DIY on a modest scale. In fact I'm deploying the same idea over a set of doors with a triangular glazed window above. I'm turning the individual 95 x 45 into a "Glulam" to carry the weight from the triangular glass above. But also I turn it into a solid timber so it better resists the wind load on the doors and glass. The cranked steels above carry the roof load. Here are the notes that go with the transom. For you you are going to needs lots of clamps. You can used tie bolts also, messy unless you want to leave them in place. The secret is to condition your timber and make sure all glue surfaces are clean, free from oils etc, roughen them a bit and don't rush the job. In other words cleanliness is next to godliness as is diligence. Here is a bridge near where I live. The photo, near where I live is not that good of a laminated bridge. There are bolts going down from the top to the bottom of the beam. These transfer the shear loads between the laminations. Glue is more efficient. Hope this help inspire you to give it a go!

I think it's a bit more nuanced and people give advice based on their own set up (I'm just as guilty of that which is why I try to ref my current set up when responding) If we look at the process and what we are trying to do when batch heating water there is some sound reasons for controlling flow rate via a gate valve and or pump speed Slower the pump speed the gate needs to be more open - speed the pump up and you'll need to close the gate valve more We want the HW supplied by the boiler to spend as long as possible in contact with the cooler water in the tank to allow as much heat transfer as possible We want the water to flow in at the top of the coil and out at the bottom so at every point in the coil the HW from the boiler is able to transfer heat because the water outside the coil and in the tank is cooler as you go down the tank Pump speed can have an effect - if you have a boiler that doesn't control the speed of the pump then you need to establish the lowest pump speed possible to maximise the time in the coil However - there is absolutely no point screwing the flow down to a point where the flow rate in the circuit is insufficient for the boiler resulting in repeated short cycling as this a massive waste of gas. So the target is to heat the water in the tank in preferably one burn so initial start up losses are minimised.

Not really. Steel is old tech and mass produced. Kerto is hitech and a smaller market...and heavy. You might even find second hand steel.

Installers are looking for a bigger job because of the grants. More about the roof please. What construction do you intend? Closer purlins gives lots of strength.

Almost as quick to DIY than actually speak to installers. Our first array was me fitting all the trays, the electrician wired it up the roofer did the slates around the trays etc. and all the flashing details. Panels to buy are around £100 each tray £70 plus flashing. So 10 panels (4.65kW) around £2k plus inverter/battery. Yes get a battery then run your whole house in cheap rate.

No, the 30 Deg figure is adjustable you can also run fan in manual so it runs 24/7 if you want. Our flue temp in heating is about 28 at most. So mine comes on about 24 for heating and about 18 for cooling

Next door neighbour - knows you are away - pops round for a quick top-up 🫤

Evening all. In the garden of my SB I have built a home office. It's single skin block, which I will wrap in breathable membrane before cladding. I have built a feature brickwork projection around the doors. There is a gap at the top between the brick and the block, as you can see. To protect this I planned to get a bit of arris rail, wrap it in either lead flashing or roofing rubber, and fix it over the top of the bricks. I would then dress the membrane down over that. Thing is, that wouldn't give me a drip bead. I'm not sure if that matters. I might be overthinking it! I have thought about using a pvc windowsill over the top, but I'm not sure how I'd address the junction between the sill and the block wall. In any event, I'd want a grey or black one and for the size I need I'd be paying more than seems sensible. How would you treat this area?! Thanks

Hi I have a pack with the construction drawings as a layman it’s quite detailed? But I’m not the builder im putting a screenshot below of the detail that’s been provided but builder saying not enough detail… lintels/steels etc all listed on Seperate drawings

Unfortunately the Reverso manual (installer) has no reference to this temperature and was only able to get the info from the manufacturer. Re the Myson you have the installer manual says the fans won't turn on in heating mode unless the flow is 30degrees C. Is this true? *Edit your manual looks like it cracks on if it doesn't detect a flow temp probe.

Did you price it up vs steel? Not sure if just went to a dear supplier but had a price years ago and steel was cheaper. Crazy.

I have a couple of large beams under a carport i used a kerto beam instead of gluelam, loads cheaper.

If you have half a building up I would roof the lot completely not temporary. get all the posi joists sit them on the walls you have built, sail the sheets over the bit you haven’t built and hold the wall plates up on 4x4 posts, then build the walls up under cover, will help you when the winter comes.

@ProDave Do you find that you use the balcony much?

As requested. Here are some pictures. I’m seriously gutted at how it’s cracked. But it is one of those things and although I’ve done a garage slab before when it was 10C using traditional concrete and a poker and that had no shrinkage cracks. the SCC was £178/m3

Probably just noise then. If the charger still works and there's no smell of electronics in the garage then don't worry about it.

Just arrived home. Zappi appears fine (can't plug in at present as caravan in the way). Nothing has tripped on the the consumer panel. All seems fine 🤔

This is the span, the width of this phase is 13m, the total width will be 24m. There are 2 spans as the middle wall will be the end of one bit of roof joist and the start of the other one, but the roofing sheets will be continuous, if we have enough long ones left from the barn, if not then overlapped. Low and wide.

A stuck fridge or freezer compre4ssor might use that much, but should trip out. My energy monitor had the battery fail, just before it did that, it was showing 1000 times the usage

Wasn't sure over what time period that was. If it's just for the period shown on screen then does seem high. A component short-circuiting will draw a very high current for a very short period of time (equally true for a noise spike). Maybe the sample rate of the monitor is only a handful of readings per second. In which case a huge but very short spike might appear to use more energy than it did. Edit: quick maths: To produce a reading of 2.8kWh for a recorded spike of 1 second you'd need to measure a draw of ~10kW or about 42A. A brief short circuit could be much more than that.

Thanks @saveasteading having looked again, put some string lines from bottom to top we can get 5 degrees maybe even 6 with some consideration on wall plate thickness. So, pretty flat, we look over fields and are pretty rural and the neighbours are only interested in how we are progressing, I suspect that we could put tilted solar and no one would comment. They know our planning includes the 'new stuff' as they call it. But, our planning also stipulates a metal roof so I need to understand the weight of solar on this as it's a large span. I've not yet even got a definitive answer as to how many panels I need. I've spoken to a couple of local supplies and they are not interested, I suspect too complicated for them and they all deal with retrofit and not new builds. Thanks for everyones assistance in this.

I think there might be 2 kinds of spray or that could just be bull. I've had it before when someone has said ive put the good spray on for you in case tiling the floor or something. Maybe acrylic vs non acrylic?

Not home at the moment, but will check when I get back. Have refreshed the data but it still shows, and would it use 2.8kWh if something went pop?

Got lakes to freeze now. Doing this brought up a few long term bugs so was a bit more work than I thought. Avalon 1 did have a basic procedural flora generator. This has since been improved in Avalon 2. Texture wise took basically every free terrain/plant texture from polyhaven!. Alien plants will of course be procedural. Masses of optimisations again. Spent an entire day trying to do bubbling mud for volcanic worlds - still not right. Claude likes to overcomplicate on an epic scale; our "camera" had 127 parameters! - now just 8. Tree lab still has around 80 variables to "grow" the plant (inspired by what Unreal Engine does). Now just main ones on first screen. As for bubbling mud it somehow did an entire advanced physics simulation causing some chronic frame rate issues as you can imagine. It goes off on it's own little adventures I'm sure!