All Activity

I really think the company is harvesting grant money to do a s**t install, knowing probably nobody will ever want to connect to it now we have a decent company supplying a wireless service so it is unlikely any of these fibres will be made live and tested.

I just asked David to look at this thread and we both thought the image doesn’t give enough height for a four post ramp. Are you planning on stacking cars? Could the bonnet be open whilst the car is in the air. Having had a 4 post ramp in our old industrial unit where the car could not be lifted fully due to the lower ceiling David likes the fact that now as you know our ramp can lift the car to the top of the lift with the bonnet open. Have you thought about a carcoon in the garage to keep a car in. The carcoons can have a tickle charge for the battery and you can drive the car in wet and they dry out nicely. You need to plan the garage layout out just like the home.

Drain connector is definitely wrong. you will get drain smells from there. Should be via a trap, probably a waterless trap.

Usually in these situations you do a google search for the email address of the CEO and vent your claim there. the few times I have tried, it gets the result you want. Did you TELL them the plug had been removed? I bet if you had just sent it back without saying, or taken it back in person, nobody would have noticed.

How does this install look? my two concerns, firstly the flue is only supported by the hole in the ceiling - I’d imaging it should have a fixing to the wall. secondly the overflow pipe that goes into soil pipe - can that really just drain into an open connector?!

On the face of it they seem quite sensible.

Usually they're really good, but I've only ever taken things back in person. Guessing they're isn't a store where you are! Are you due a trip to the mainland anytime soon and could take it back in person?

+1 to the “very” We have acoustic PB, resilient bars, rockwool and then the upper floor, underlay & carpets. Noise doesn’t really get through that.

FWIW, French Building Regs say: Minimum coolant temperature entering the floor of between 18°C (near the English channel) to 22°C (near the Med), except 16°C if there are humidity controls, dehumidification or similar Automatic cut-off if the the coolant drops to 12°C No more than 6 circuits per manifold Circuits serving bath rooms & shower rooms should be isolated due to the high condensation risk Maximum 25 cm between pipes, to avoid excessive variation in floor surface temperature Room thermostats set no lower than 26°C

Great work!!

@ADLIan is this comparable to dritherm 32 or 37?

Here is the frame fitted Better explanation of the Grohe instructions HERE that I took to fit to this stage. That topic will be updated with the extra steps still required.

What centres are the joists? Looking at different products you might find one that squeezes in neatly. eg, a 1200 roll cuts into 3 x 400 with a saw before unwrapping. Most rockwool is less itchy than most fg.

Slate and tiled roofs let water in but then it stops at the underlapping slate and gradually goes down to the gutter. If there is an underfloor, then that can catch any rogue drips that escape. That looks a decent job, but at your vent i suspect that water can blow up over the top or side of the zinc and has nothing under it. Or some tiny gap where the slates are cut. It would be necessary to take the ridge off to see how far the metal goes.. I think it should go all the way to the apex OR have another overlapping piece to intercept it. And wider too, hidden under the top slate. Wind is the likely culprit. Gusts generally last just a few seconds, firing water upwards, but then releasing it. Hence a longer flashing might suffice. mastic exists for flues but that should not be very hot there. It is nit very flexible so won't last long.Try a local stove shop. There are special and foolproof rubber flashings for flues througb metal roofs but they are ugly and not appropriate to your lovely roof.

Our induction hob went on the blink so I ordered a new one from Screwfix, and seeing as we're not at home just now, I got a mate who is a sparky to fit it. The new one had a plug attached which he cut off to hard wire it in, same as the old one. Unfortunately, when he turned on the power, it beeped once and then died. Now Screwfix are refusing to give me a refund or replacement, because it's been 'tampered with'. Their own website says it can be hard wired. It doesn't say that doing so will void the warranty! I can't get through on the phone and their chat function is like talking to a brick wall. I asked for the contact details I will need to file a small claims court application and they promptly ended the chat. Anybody had any luck with getting a refund out of them?

Very is good enough for me. Just need to spend more and get covered in horrible fibres again.

A relatively easy way to check that is look at windspeed and direction when it is raining. Them compare to water getting in. Find your local WeatherUnderground station and see some actual numbers.

FFS, that's ridiculous.

Have you looked at the T&C's provided to you by the architect ? Might have thought they would define payment terms and conditions. Upfront payment or deposit ? Why 50% ? Probably equates to 3 or 4 man days of work

Get it fully scaffolded, strip the roof, clear polythene sheet over it, use clear as it’s easier to see the timber work underneath for doing the alterations.

Following these steps I added that piece of wood to the wall Drilled the four holes, two on the floor, two in the wood (my "wall"), then fitted the frame And made the adjustments to these parts to level make it vertical and tightened the nuts and inserted the little plastic lugs Finally, attached the waste to the Y junction. Ready for these steps next

Could you explain please? Do you want comparisons of materials, or decibel reduction numbers or something else. The simple answer is "very".

I was hoping to leave most of the demolition work until the brickies were ready to build the gable walls, and minimise the risk of rain damage. But now I'm thinking the old structure is getting in the way too much. I need to get services in the ground and start levelling the oversite etc. In the picture it's the whole left hand side that will need to go and also around the side about the same width. I was thinking about removing the roof tiles to minimise pressure on the walls and use something like dpm as a temp covering. Then to add series of hefty cross beams, before removing that corner of the roof and working down. The three chimneys will also need to be removed. Would removing the tiles from the roof be sufficient to reduce the spreading force of the roof into the walls?

A bit of advice needed please! We have sent in a notice for Intended Demolition to building control to demolish a double garage and single garage on the plot. I've called them today and they said they haven't got it, but that's a different story. They said the contractor would need to complete the form and supply 'other necessary' paperwork. I said we were going to demolish the garages ourselves. She asked if the garages were under 50 cubic metres, and then said they won't be as that's only 1 single garage size. She said we would need to send in our insurance and employer's liability. We don't have any employees and we (and our adult son) were planning on doing the demolition to ground level, with contractors taking over to deal with the foundations as part of the groundwork. Anyone been in a similar situation and have any advice regarding insurance for the demolition and ensuring cover for family demolition members? Also the plot is at the rear of a house and before the purchase of the plot the sellers disconnected the electricity. Do I still need to have official confirmation that no electricity or gas is connected for demolition? We've had an asbestos survey which said there was none so thats one thing hopefullyticked off. Any advice regarding insurance or communications with building control would be very much appreciated, thanks.

The sane mind would do that but. I’m an ocd maniac who worries about the trapped moisture in the sole plate I also have a very damp slab that’s taking ages to dry out. Thanks for the reply