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My common rafters are at 35 degrees, and I expect my valley to be somewhere near 26 degrees. Are you saying that if I cut the heel height of the bird's mouth the same on the commons and the valley rafter, the valley will naturally be lower than the main plane of the roof?

I was waiting for that! 😂😂😂 The house is in a row of identical properties so not sure how that would go down with planning! For now I am keeping an open mind and will see what the Architects say.

Something like this would be ideal, cut to the relevant dimensions and put under the existing sill https://ewistore.co.uk/shop/external-wall-insulation/over-sill-2-5m-100mm-depth/

I've seen plastic conduit lengths and potatoes used to make a gazebo in a back garden party once. Was actually incredibly effective

to be honest this is the quicker, and possibly more wallet friendly option. Tenner a tin, he'll get the VAT back, and also be able to use it for sealing those penetrations for lights, cctv cameras, external taps, outside sockets etc. I get the 'Got to be sure' thoughts you are having, sometimes to just have to have the feeling that you've done all you can. All in, it's probably a couple of pots of paint and a couple of hours of time. I don't think there is really a right or wrong here, both methods will do a job for you. I haven't foamed the base of the boards, but I might do, it would stop the crap accumulating under the boards! Sort of job that could be done in 20 minutes whilst I'm pressure testing plumbing...

?1 or 2 IBCs, cut out as necessary.

Christ - that sounds painful but progress looks good

Thanks all. Apologies for delay in replying. I took the eolgation route and it worked out well. I bought one of those common jigs from Amazon which seemed to work well on the smaller drawers but at some point it must have taken a knock as it was just not lining things up properly as that's how I wound up with the problem. After that I just took a slowly slowly measure 3 times approach with a pocket square. Thanks again.

Hi All - I'm preparing for the next part of my refurb which is making good the upstars bathroom and am looking for ideas for how to build a super easy and cheap temporary shower cubicle in the old kitchen space downstairs. Has anyone done anything like this? I remember seeing little cubicles at the gym that were brought in when they were re-doing it up but can't seem to find anything like it for a reasonable price. I have mains water and waste I can tap into in the kitchen and will have gotten rid of any local electrics so as not to have any zoning issues. Thanks, Paul

So I thought I'd gotten the tops ready for Christmas, but it was a bit of a let down. They didn't hold up well at all. Plenty of ring marks and water stains. I'd got about 4 coats on and they looked and felt great so really thought they would have held up better. Going to call Osmo tomorrow to see if I've done something wrong in how I've applied. There was very light use on the day as well, much less than how they'll end up being used every day.

Do you not get option for 32mm connection there? Who's your water board? Good idea to come up just inside the garage. If you can tunnel under enough you can get the pipe up through the bottom and just repair dpm with tape and membrane. It's got to be punctured to bring the pipe up through anyway

Welcome, welcome. A A 1960's house. May I kindly suggest you make the below alteration to it as a starting point.......

Why would you want to make your life harder? If you've already boarded I'd just use the foam.

It's just because the valleys are on a lower pitch so the plumb cut is higher on the main plane of the roof.

HURRAY FOR EPS!!! I'm so glad you avoided PIR in the walls. As a geek I would love some pics of wall insulation and VCL of you get a chance. Also props on the Scooby, a proper car. Towbar and all.

Merry Christmas everyone. I have two roofs at the same pitch and height that join with a pair of valleys that will have valley tiles. Common and jack rafters are 44mm wide, and valley rafters are doubled up. I'm looking at valley rafter installations, and I see some valley rafters set at the same height as the commons and jacks. I see some where the jacks are slightly higher than the valley rafter, so I assume the valley rafter is set lower than the commons in this case? What I have failed to find is any information giving an indication why either variant is used. Is there a reasoning behind the choice?

Think I might do this. Not sure if dpm/dpc was taped…

Thanks, yes I know the one you mean, great episode. They started off with a house not dissimilar to ours!

Would EWI be an option?

Bullshit Jobs

A previous job, one of the engineers never seemed that bright to many of us, and nobody was really sure what he was doing. Then after a while he was sacked and marched off the premises immediately. It turned out he was spending most of his time running his own business.

What is going on the floor?

Several years ago, a neighbour of mine was working for a large, London based legal company. She had it written into her contract that she could use the companies IT facilities to do her Amazon trading. One of her duties was to post many legal documents, she used to slip in her own packages with no one noticing.

Isn't OFGEM meant to put a cap on it on predicted future prices (they are not really predicted as they are forward contracts as far as I know).

Right. Does still make me wonder if, with true WiFi connected system, if the routers are getting overloaded. I know when I have more than 5 things connected to mine, it gets unreliable. This has happened with both a real router and using my phone as a hot spot. My newer hotspot phone has the option to specify how many devices can connect to it. It has been much more reliable than my old phone (but let range) but I do only have about 3 things connected at any one time now. I did play about with Node Red a while back, but got bored.