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Exactly so. The hardening is mostly chemistry, not drying. Changes in colour are normal too, depending on water content, being laid straight or worked extensively, thickness, and any objects or joints below.

I can’t draw for toffee so chat does code so everything is procedurally generated . Reflections , fresnel , blooming all the ps5 effects I love . Lipsync on the bots mouth . Fuzzy logic because when you say “ Birdy “ it could be translated as “ birdie “ . Also phonetic matching e.g “mould play “ = “ Coldplay “ . No hard coding of phrases everything just open source . Love it .

If this is a shed that you will sit in occasionally then it probably isn't a bc issue. A fire is unlikely and you would walk out of the door. If it is a bc issue then the osb is a risk. There have been full scale fire tests on exposed osb and the fire and smoke spread scarily fast. I once had a bco agree that masonry paint would suffice as protection as it doesn't burn. But that wouldn't suffice now as test results are required for everything. The clear protection is intumescent varnish. It is expensive as it needs a thick layer then sealjng coat. : possibly more cost than plasterboard and finishing. It can look OK but can be a bit streaky. Plus, osb can flake and filler would look awful. The same varnish would be required for ply or t and g.

That does look amazing!

I wired a house that was completely clad in OSB on the inside because the owner liked the look. BC insisted on fireproof covering due to the risk of surface fire spread and they found a clear treatment that gave that protection while still looking like OSB.

@Tony Thanks for your input. Yes I think that is a cencern that I may have overlooked, but, initially the room will be used as a workshop and if/when converted will be vapour barried before plasterboarding. Would this not address this ? Also modern, I believe, OSB sold in the UK and EU is typically manufactured to E1 formaldehyde emission standards, and many products emit very low levels of VOCs. The highest emissions occur when the boards are new and diminish significantly over the first few months.

That would do it, or better still a timber ‘ladder’ shape of form work so you end up with serval separate blocks of sand/cement, 1 for each tile, then rain water could run around them and off the cill unhindered.

Yes I would fix a temporary timber to the face of the brickwork and cast a sand cement infill on top of the ali cill for the back of the first paver to rest on.

The still image from the video you posted above shows a mini concrete slab over the cill. You could do that and have the tiles resting on the concrete and then supported by pedestals as you move away from the cill.

Something like this would be shallow enough and affordable, can't vouch for the quality though. https://vodaland.co.uk/products/easy-low-plastic-channel-drain-with-plastic-grate You do get clips to retain the edge of tiles on pedestals but they won't give much additional support to the overhang.

Some basics here https://www.theglasgowlawpractice.co.uk/at-what-point-is-a-house-sale-legally-binding-in-scotland-from-making-an-offer-to-concluding-missives-learn-about-property-purchase-in-scotland/ Saying beware, be sure your missives are signed before getting carried away.

Mine was a most unusual transaction. The plot was not for sale. I knew the owner and some of the history and it took years of telling him I wanted to buy it before he eventually agreed to sell it. It was my solicitor that suggested the subject to planning clause, to prevent me buying a plot I hoped to build on and then finding I could not.

Thanks for this. Had a good look over the last few days. The only issue I think there could be is the cantilever overhang for the cill of the bifold. Unless I can sit the slab on a batten or something I don't think there is a bracket available to accomdate the extra 100mm overhang. Found a Robin Clevett video on YT the the other day doing exactly what I need with decking. I'm not that keen on decking but at least this would be a method I can be sure will work.

I honestly don't know of any solicitors that would allow it. It just doesn't happen here.

Thanks for the link Nick. Not sure I can get that type out here but I can get the less reliable sump float switches which is an option. So I guess I could try it without and have one as a fall back position, then replace it with the one you suggest.

Not quite correct, you need signed missives by both parties to fully legally binding. And this only gets done at the end of proceedings now - it used to be done at the start of proceedings. So don't count on it.

Just had some scaffolding put up to deal knackered chimney flaunching that is causing water to soak into the chimney. Additionally part of the stack needs repointing, a few spalled bricks replaced and I’m going to apply stormdry to the brickwork. On the north side of the stack I’ve got some pretty heavy efflorescence in places. I’m not massively fussed about the appearance, although it would be nice to get rid of it. This side doesn’t really take the weather, but obviously hasn’t dried out as quick in the sun as the other sides, which has allowed the efflorescence to form. Can barely even scratch it with a screwdriver it’s so hard. Estimate 1-2mm thick or more in places. What should I do? Leave alone and stormdry cream over it? Try and remove it? Guess it would need a wire brush on a grinder or some extremely potent chemicals.

It may be possible that you’re over-thinking the 💩 out of this….. It’s likely to have ‘done’ whatever it needs to do by now anyways. I’ve not poured one yet where it’s a perfect finish, as it varies with thickness etc. Go to the pub instead 🤝👍

In my limited experience, a float valve will cut in again when the water rises. I have a small irrigation pump where there are 2 sensors set at slightly different depths. They simply kick in again.

Is bare OSB, or even painted OSB a good idea inside a habitable room, especially a garden room, which could get very warm inside during the summer? I'd be looking into the possible harmful effects of VOC off gassing if I was considering this.

Once it's under offer we don't allow gazumping here in Scotland.

I'm thinking that the risk there is for the vendor. You might apply for a design that has no chance of approval. Then they have list time and have to marker again. But if going for outline pp then fair enough.... but why wouldn't the vendor go for that first?

If it helps we bought our plot with "subject to planning permission" clause in the offer. It was a previous building plot that had permission in 1980 but was never built on. Our solicitor who was on the ball worded it like this, so that if for some reason planning was refused we could have walked away having only incurred the cost of the planning application, and some fees for his time spent. If planning was granted there would be a binding contract. So we applied for outline permission and all parties waited until that concluded (pp was granted) and the purchase proceeded.

https://www.pumpsalesdirect.co.uk/stuart-turner-f1-float-switch.html?gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=7978823468&gbraid=0AAAAADsQmqZSL0q1iUtKMjQGskUizpzgq&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_7PRBhDcARIsAMjV7jnDEdB05YbjznSjXck0sJBzMwlKIL2y7dRUcIWCMm3E1Nvuhzt6L_gaAv6hEALw_wcB

"All hail the ale!"