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Specifying 2.4m deep footings is a big CDM fail by your designer. Esp on a small residential project. It's just not practical to do safely on a typical self build budget. Back to the drawing board. Ground bearing slab / piles might be a better option.

No but check that your builder has a contractors all risk policy.

We are soon to submit a planning application for a complete renovation and garden room extension. Almost all the work will be done by our builder, though we have started removing plaster, ceilings, rotten doorframes and fitted kitchen ourselves. Do we need special insurance for this beyond standard buildings insurance? Thanks

Hi Craig. Thanks for your reply. We chose a product from a local supplier which I believe is manufactured by Smart Systems/Architectural Aluminium. I've fixed the supplied 225mm cills to the frames and have installed the first window sitting on top of the cill plate (which has been waterproofed using tape as per the Back to Earth guidance - image attached). I'm happy that the smaller windows will be fine simply sitting on the wooden cill plate, but was curious as to whether bigger windows need to have the cill mechanical fixed to whatever substrate it is sitting on.

Isn't it an MCS requirement that the MCS company that's gone bust carried insurance for the situation you're in....flawed design??

Slightly confused by this, the clay is at 10m depth but you are digging to only 2.4m? Why would you dig down to the clay? Piles are expensive but at least the cost is more certain, there seems to be a lot of risk with this approach. 2.4m is very deep before you even consider the "or deeper" and someone getting into the trench seems risky. How do they get the excavated material out of the trench? If you plan to lift it out with the digger then they have to hoist it up to wherever the bucket can reach, and you have a digger on the edge of your very deep excavation... Can you even get in a digger around the bracing you need? What if the bucket accidentally collapses the bracings with someone at the bottom? What does your principal designer say about the risks, as they have a duty to design out risks like this if possible? You're also doing it in Autumn where very dry clay (after this summer) starts getting potentially inundated with water which wont help the stability. Are you sure the trench will be above the water table? What about perched water? Once you start stepping a foundation that deep you are starting to need a lot of concrete. Can you do it in short stretches so you dont open too much up at once and minimise instability?

Our kitchen diner is a L shaped room, 8m by 8m. We kept it simple, 8x large led down lights for kitchen and dining area in total. That is also fine for the island and we have no shadows, as they are nice and bright and shine light in all directions. Two doors into kitchen one switch at each door. Kitchen cabinets and down lights under cabinets are are on a single switch by the hob. You don't need loads of lights and zones. Not a fan GU10 type lights as you need loaded of them

@GaryChaplin I made this form up, plagarised a bit from @Jeremy Harris. Did the commisioning myself with the help of @Adrian Walker Filled in my name where a name was required, sent it of to my BCO and never heard a word. MVHR Comissioning Documentation template.pdf

it all adds character no?

I thought I'd worked it all out and then I got to the window What I should have done then was knock the plaster and concrete internal and just tile straight to block work However I'd already tiled the window reveal :D so Fine cuts it was to be ;)

Finished today, the last of the solar panels on, scaffold down. "Porch" between car port and static complete and all gutter on.

My first thought when reading @Spinny 's post was 'too many switches, would be better to put some automation and scene controllers in'. I think once you've got more than 3 switches in a room that's the way to go. Maybe have local switches near to each light/group of lights but the main switch location(s) should be buttons that control scenes rather than individual lights.

I'd also be asking the SE to consider using pipes or a ground-bearing slab.

Well, how long have you got ? Are you sitting comfortably, then I'll begin....... Second thoughts I'm not that cruel. @Spinny 's approach is what I'd planned , but in our case, I made a massive massive massive mistake... 🫡Didn't tell SWMBO what I was planning in terms of switches - so now she just switches everything on, leaves it on and refuses to switch the 96 other light switches ( Worktop ceiling downlights Walkway ceiling downlights Island ceiling downlights [...] lights ) off. Why not sweetheart ? Because you didn't tell me that we'd need 9 million switches to switch them on - and BLOODY OFF. Oh, ..... glass of wine perhaps? She doesn't like switches - and the rest of the family sure as HELL doesn't like switching the bloody things off I disappeared up my own fundament. And found that there were dragons up there.

That's how it works. The structural engineers want to see a number to carry their calculated load. The pile is hammered/augered in until it attains that number. Ours were 9m ....

It looks very similar to what I have, so if you want to come and practice on my place, feel free. Free board while till the job is done.

You've asked a lot of questions but not given us much on what you are actually planning. Mind filling us in a bit about your situation? Might help guide the answers somewhat.

Looks fairly comprehensive! Although I'd have grouped them into layers & usage zones to cut down the number of switches. Also a good idea to be consistant across all the rooms. Using the alternative layered switching concept, for example, it could be that the first switch always controls the primary (most-used) layer of lights (often the ambiant layer), the second controls the task-lighitng layer, the 3rd the accent layer, and the 4th any night-lights. If there are multiple zones that does become a little more complex unless you use modular light switches. For example this (European) system allows you to put 1, 2 or 3 switches in any of the 4 modules:

Would piles not be easier ? Worked well for us on a demolish rebuild. Ours were 4-5 meters for two storey spec, 64 piles for a 200 sq m build, though a site next door went to 7.5 meters deep. It all seemed a bit “suck it and see” when they were driving the piles in , just keep driving until they stop moving!

I have been looking at outdoor lighting ideas for decking and came across LED neon flex. it looks like a nice way to light the edges of steps or run lighting along the decking without seeing lots of individual LEDs. just wondering if anyone here has used it outdoors? mainly interested in how well it holds up in wet weather and whether it causes any problems down the line. would you go for neon flex or standard outdoor LED strip lights for this sort of job?

I wonder if 25 light switches is enough, because that is what I have - a little on the mean side perhaps 🤣 Worktop ceiling downlights Walkway ceiling downlights Island ceiling downlights Island pendants (2 way) Dining pendants Dining ceiling downlights Dining picture spotlights Sitting ceiling downlights - row 1, row 2, row 3 Intermediate downlights Doorway downlights Hallway downlights Bifold downlights Wall light Garden doorway downlight (2 way) Undercabinet worktop lights Underworktop led strip Shelving led strip Outside wall lights Outside soffit lights - side, rear Spare smart home programmable (All dimmable and smart, many CCT) I also have a switch for the electric rooflight, and 4 other LED strip lights will be wireless control only. (Yes, I am madder than mad Jack Mcmad, the winner of last year's Mr Madman.) Tips - make sure you assign your switches in a logical manner e.g. left to right across the plate = left to right across the room, and plate by plate down the room, otherwise people will be playing light switch bingo. This is also the argument against putting everything together by the doorway - grandchild could open the rooflight when going to do some colouring in at the dining table. I have the kitchen LED light switches on the end of the island. You can now easily install smart switch modules provided you have planned for extra deep/large back boxes. I found MarcLED had a lot of different LED profiles when unable to find what I wanted elsewhere. And buy some extra lights as spares where using integrated fittings. I have plenty of replacements if they start dropping out 5 or 10 years down the line. I rather like these multiple led strip vibes but too late for that... https://youtube.com/shorts/kmbr_zzqTTE?si=Q_37SjtvwcCb5rKh

What windows did you use? Window sills are generally fitted to the bottom of the window. They'd either have a precast sill that the windows sit on top of, or a section underneath recessed, where the window sill is fixed to. Every system is different in how they do things but, usually that is the standard method. Do you have a picture to show what it is you are trying to do?

Hi all, I have a BioPure 2 domestic sewage treatment plant manufactured by We Build It Ltd, fitted with a pumped outlet. I’m experiencing an issue where the water level within the treatment chamber rises high enough to submerge the incoming foul-water pipe. The submersible outlet pump is functioning correctly, but I’m concerned that the blue plastic internal filter modules may have been incorrectly installed or positioned. Does anyone own or service a BioPure 2 who could share photographs of the internal arrangement, particularly the blue filter modules, or confirm the correct operating water level? Any technical advice would be greatly appreciated. Pls see attached pic. Cheers

Hi All Currently in the process of fitting aluminium windows to a timberframe self-build. I'm using various butyl-type sealing tapes to waterproof the cill plate and surrounds (as per manufactures details - pro clima and ampacol). However, I can't find any information as to whether to fix the cill to the cill plate. For the smaller windows, jamb fixings have been more than sufficient, however I'm wondering whether simply resting the cill on packers and cill plate is sufficient for larger (longer than 1600mm) windows as recommended by manufacturers. Although the butyl tape should in theory self seal around any screw penetration, it seems a shame to puncture an otherwise waterproof layer. If anybody has any experience, it would be appreciated, thanks.

Or buy a box of spares with the non replaceable type. (I'd hugely prefer changable bulbs but as you say they are getting more difficult these days, especially if looking for specific features)