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If his vents sit 25 or 30mm on top of fascia thats where you problem is. You could get him to cut a fillet 30mm to nothing over the length of a few tiles say 1m and fix to top of your fascia. Or you could have the over fascia vents extended along your fascia. Or neighbours fascia could be dropped the thickness of the vents but seems extreme.

Jesus 45 quid for a bit of plastic.

It does look pretty - but who goes around looking at their ceiling, just looked up from the computer and realised I hadn't seen any of the MVHR terminals since my last service, where I replace the cone the filters in all extract points - can you do that with plaster in valves?

Ye i probably should of got a pro in, but as ever keen to save money, dosent always pan out!! Ive been happy enough with other walls ceilings i have done, this one was raked attic ceiling with bonding to create a curve at the joins, just bit off more than i could chew. Does the filler bond ok to the painted surface? The joint compoud i got sands very easly. I bought a speedskim, very good tool helped a lot( maybe not enough) . I do enjoy skimming when it goes well, just larger areas i find difficult. Thanks carl

We still need to choose our valves (and until we do can't cut the plenums to height). Plaster in do look great but are they hard to get perfect? @Super_Paulie how tricky was plastering them in? I'd assumed there would be some sort of bead to plaster up to, to help keep the perfect roundness, but can't see any on your earlier unfinished pic. @Oz07 these are heading up in price but seem easier to fit than the plaster-in type https://www.epicair.co.uk/products/haelix-rondo-valve-125mm (available square too)

He has consciously left a bodge, expecting nobody would notice. This because very few people check roof work because it is out of sight and reach. I suspect his plan will be to wiggle it and your tiles about and/or stuff in some sand and cement. Being there shows him he has to do a proper job and not harm your house in any way. Be bold and ask him his intentions and tell him that you want to see the finished work. Don't publish it here but take pictures of his van and him in action. I'm not the expert on here , but my bodge would be to try to lift your tile to lock in, and stuff a wedge under it. Not while up a ladder! Others here may know a proper solution.

Indeed! CVC are now getting more competitive: Plaster in type “Designer”, however some want these spray-painted in matt white Or Ventilation land offer these. I can’t see why they wouldn’t work for supply and extract tbh. More options out there in cyberspace, just needs a search. Enjoy.

As a diy-er I invariably have a go at plastering, thinking this time it will be different! I can do small patches well, but it takes lots of repeat skims, sometimes sanding and pva, a whole ceiling would take far too long. I think a pro plasterer is 10x quicker than I am, it’s a job that I would definitely outsource.

Welcome to another 'Eat Anglian'

Care to enlighten us on the intermediate options?

Tres Bien, Rodders.

Get a plasterer in and end this madness. Would you really spend good time and money on filler and sanders etc, to still produce a terrible outcome, vs pay a plasterer a half days wages?? Lunacy. Sorry!

Can't you just skim it again? Put some extra-time in if the hit is too big. Speedskim and sponge float work for me as an amateur skimmer, followed by mist coat then 2 heavy coats of contract. Pole sand that back and its pretty much flawless, just takes time. If you use filler before paint you can never get that to flat back as the consistency is different between the mediums.

Done and done 🍺

Easifill is a good filler /jointing compound. Sandpaper to finish. Some joint compound goes off very hard and is difficult to sand.

I have skimmed my ceiling, time got away from me and the finish is poor, i will fill hollows with ready mixed jointing compound, i have started sanding with a palm sander but its a bit slow and has no dust extraction, not sure whether to get an obital or dedicated drywall sander, both would be cheap models, anyone experience of drywall sanders? Thanks carl

Their dry ridge has ventilation built into (under) it so presumably airflow coming through their eaves strips does now have an exit path. When I suspected we had possible condensation in our loft I just fitted felt lap vents and that seemed to do the trick and so this would've likely been sufficient for them and I would've suggested trying it had they mentioned they had an issue. I think the breathable felt we've got in these roofs is all well and good when new, but as it gets dirty I think it inevitably loses some/all of that breathability.

Any news about which Heat Pump (Water/Air) manufacturer can supply an ASHP unit that can be used with a Johnson & Starley warm air unit. Presently J&S are not making any ASHP. From Johnson and Starley: Johnson & Starley does not currently manufacture heat pumps, as there are already a wide range of ASHP manufacturers and systems available on the market. However, the J&S Aquair can be incorporated into an ASHP installation. Due to the lower flow rates typically associated with heat pump systems, the Aquair would generally need to be sized larger than would be required for a conventional heating system. Based on an existing warm-air heater, a J32, we would anticipate that an Aquair S-20 might be suitable. However, the final specification should be determined by the ASHP installer following a heat-loss calculation for the property, to ensure that the correct output is selected. Interesting to hear that, in principle, it should work providing you get the correctly rated ASHP and a slightly higher rated Aquair S warm air model - depending on your layout. Mine has very little ducting, in fact the Aquair would sit straight on the existing plenum (duct), although I suspect that some adjustment will be necessary. Also it looks like you also need to factor in extra kit like water reservoir holding tanks, to and from the ASHP. However how big they are and where they need to be installed still needs to be confirmed... Anyone else got any further yet ...

Thank you - yes, I agree it all needs further investigation, but since we're living in the house and just moved in, I can't just rip up the living room floorboards after my morning coffee - it will require a bit of planning and step-by-step investigation. Wouldn't drilling a hole in concrete breach the DPC if it's there?🤔 Anyway, living room appears to be solid mahogany flooring over joists. That's it. I can stick a probe camera into the void through one of the old unfilled holes from old plumbing or wiring and it looks like there's nothing else to the set-up. So I infer that currently the outside air is free to come in via the breather blocks and flow straight into the living room.🫣

He could remove the ventilation strip, as you don't have / need one, ergo neither does the neighbour. I am guessing he has put these in in ignorance, as if the ridge is not ventilated then there cannot be any adventitious airflow. I'd say to ask for them to be removed, not just some crappy mortar mix packed into the gaps......IMHO this is a bodge fix and I wouldn't be happy with it at all.

This is a great reply, I will respond tomorrow as your input is really helping me contextualise it all. thanks

True but easier said than done, need to channel it somewhere - soak away means removing a load of slabs, trenching and creating soak away. Into existing drain is round two right angles and on up and down levels so not that easy

What do you want to know, shrinkable soil, shallow foundations, two of the driest summers on record. there is going to be some serious insurance claims in the next few years.

I've had a bucket under our mbhr for four years now. It only produces condensate when it's cold and dry outside. Dry most of the time. Maybe makes 10l in a year.

I think the cause was linked to a tree in a neighbours garden. Neighbour not cooperative.