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I'd feel really nervous about how this is going...ditto for your hob post.....how can you confirm the measurements are "right" if you don't have measuring positions, same equipment, all the facts about what can and can't be done...? In contrast out fitters came to template (physical sheet material took circa 2 hours for kitchen and utility) and that was the point at which we discussed finer detail such as how far back tap was etc. From that point in it was their measurements; their job to match slab to the measurements; their risk. We were never asked to "sign off" other than confirming the slab we had chosen. Are they actually asking you to confirm the drawings or are you acting out of caution? Btw very similar sinks (Franke) 5mm overhang all round (no accessories on sink ledge). Our old place was closer to flush (was indeed a stonemason who branched out into worktops) ....we prefer the larger over hang as, to us, it appears more finished.

Few ways to look at flow rates. 1. Determine loop length and set flow rate 2. Auto adjust actuators, these read flow and return temp and set flow rate to achieve to pre programmed differential temperature. 3. Mine are set fully open - the highest flow rate (by reading the flow meters) are tweaked down, similar to that as discussed by @Nickfromwales. I have also further adjusted to get room temp close to where I want. Wouldn't get too hung up on exact flow rate for each length, open flow meters fully. Set circulation pump to achieve close to 2 to 2.5L/min and leave it at that. Then adjust any loops that are over 2.5L/min down with the flow meters. Your thermostats will do the rest.

Sounds like an deveoping outbreak of common sense. Ie, adapt. Sadly, we will have no money left to adapt after spending it all trying to stop it.

Any advice regarding forward/backward positioning of an induction hob ? I attach the template drawing which has a hob cutout 503mm wide for a 526mm hob in 655mm wide 30mm quartz. Plan says cut out goes 95mm from front edge and then 57mm from the back edge. We were thinking push the hob back so the extractor in the wall unit above works most effectively - are we over doing it ? is there any reason to make the gap at the back larger ? Will be cut out from a single piece with no join - so hopefully 57mm quartz strip at the back is wide enough not to break or crack ?

But doesn’t each loop need a different flow rate depending on lengths?

So I have three zones. Heat source is valiant ecotec boiler. According to the Salus I have to have the flow metres fully open and the let the actuator do it magic. If that’s the case my concern is the the flow rates on the manifold and what they should be set to for all three zones

My measurements... So now can see there is a 'cut back' on the wall section, so the 227 reveal has to be added to 643 = 870. But at the left hand wall the worktop has to be 648.5 or 5.5mm deeper to reach the wall. Seems odd. The wall section thay have as about 1.5mm less than the actual of 870mm - a reasonable allowance perhaps of 1.5mm short of the window frame ? But the wall section on the far left they have a worktop depth of 640.3 but the actual is 648.5 - an unreasonable gap of 8mm between back edge and the wall. No reason for this unless they can only cut right angle corners - which surely cannot be true as some people would have angled worktops by design. (Anyone know if the saws they use are like band saws/jig saws, or big circular saws that can't change directions ?)

I I think these are the type of screws for hangers etc. https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/product/simpson-tx20-csa-connector-screws-50mm-x-35mm/17499?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17347847741&gbraid=0AAAAADfLLCp7Mywl_VK9JlivX3AWSyoTk&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk5nVBhDiARIsAHNGqadLNGLJMo6ttMmHRe1au_g_ycT8PQaa09USMbr3oTc-UsjKuZZcrDoaAqAKEALw_wcB Normal screws are not suitable, these have a shoulder to fit the hole.

By the way the sink corners have radii of curvature given by the manufacturer which I looked up when they came to template. For the utility it is 35mm radius, and for the kitchen 25mm radius. For the bowl width and length they have gone with 1mm less than the manufacturers specified dimensions - so in theory should be 0.5mm beyond the edge of the bowl all around. They did tell me the cutting would be done on a CNC machine, so should be a very close reproduction of the dimensions fed into the machine.

I don't understand why they have not provided diagrams that clearly show the measured position of the walls/perimeters with the planned dimensions and positioning of the worktop super imposed onto it. That is the obvious way to allow a customer to buy off a drawing. When they were here they commented that there would be a 10mm gap at the sides of the window frame so it was just as well we were tiling the sides. That is why I have focussed on checking the utility piece in particular. I have used a machine cut piece of board and the edge of a spirit level to to form the planned position of the straight front edge of the worktop. This shows me (using spacers to measure) that the 5mm overhang will be 5mm at one end increasing to 7mm and then falling again to 4.5mm at the far end because there is a small misalignment - but visually unnoticeable - of the front face of cupboards/appliance bays. The right angle on the cut board, checked with a set square, shows me the long edge, if cut to 90deg will taper somewhat away from the wall and I will end up with an 8mm gap on that side near the window where the reveal isn't straight. Tiles will just about cover.

There are metre markers written on the pipe, but doubt you’ll be lucky enough to see both on each loop….. Balancing is easy, just match the flow rates by manually winding down the faster flowing loops until you see the sluggish ones waking up a bit. Needs patience.

That’s not enough, as hardened screws shear very easily as they have near zero ‘give’, and the demand on them is considered dynamic due to wind / snow / heat / cold etc.

I was told, if using screws, use partially threaded screws with solid stem at the top.

I've only ever seen physical templates which were easy to check. I wouldn't want to rely on a drawing.

In a nutshell, yes. The client is buying additional insurance, beyond that of said 3rd parties cover. Prob a few thousand max in individual policies, but the last time I costed these out was early 2023 so no clue about costs nowadays. Bottom line is, I expect these are specific to project / liability levels etc, so will be variable. These are more relevant where the client(s) is completely hands off, and are not versed in construction or site supervision in any way, shape or form.

If your operating as a single zone I would keep you money in your pocket. Salus auto balance work when different zones are opening and closing and keep a steady flow rate through the open loops, ensuring there flow rates do not change. What is you heat source, single zone or many zones? (zone being a circuit or multiple circuits that are switched via a thermostat)

I'd be nervous too, and measuring has been my life. The two decimal places is false and unnecessary precision. 7mm difference is perfectly normal. But what if the shape isn't quite square? Actually it can't be with that 7mm. A proper template would tell if all the corners were 90 degrees. OR they would show diagonal distances as checks I think I'd be telling them it's their job to measure and get it right... which clearly they aren't comfortable with. ... which puts their measuring skill in doubt. And point out the missing dimension.

Did it work?

There is no upstand. There are 3 worktops: 1/ the hob run backs against the rear wall which will have a glass splashback templated and fitted after - the ends finish against tall cabinet panels and they said they would be polishing the cut ends to help the worktop slide in without damaging the cabinet panels if it is a tight fit. 2/ the island which is nice and square from the fitter and has the sink cut out (2 taps) and a waterfall end 3/ the utility which has a sink cut out (1 tap) and runs in against the window frame to seamlessly form the window cill. Although no upstand, we will be tiling the walls at one end, in the window reveal, and along the back wall. I have been sent the template drawings (created by a laser scanner device, not by any physical template being made) but trying to check them is tricky. I will post them so you can comment. My own measurements of the utility piece give me some concerns. It is basically L shaped to run into the window reveal with the long edge into the reveal marked as 868.51 mm. However the short edge is marked as 640.33mm and the other dog leg marked 232.95mm. Now that adds up to 873.28 which is almost 5mm longer than the other end. And if I measure the actual dog leg it is 227mm or almost 6mm less than they have. And my measurements show the worktop space will be 870mm from overhang into the window frame and exactly parallel to the window frame. So by logic that implies a potential 7.5mm gap at the back of the worktop away from the window. Yes I am going to tile it but doesn't seem a reason to leave the worktop 7.5mm short ?!? There is also no measurement given for the distance between the edge of the sink and the edge of the worktop. I am really loath to sign off templating done invisibly when there is a large sum of money and an irreplaceable (out of production) quartz involved and obvious queries ? What do others do, just sign the template off blind ?

I don't understand that, perhaps because I've never built domestic buildings as business. Surely they detail what level of cover there is whether limited at 10k or 500k? e.g. at extreme: If a pile fails and a building becomes worthless isn't a warranty for the whole cost necessary? Or is the client buying limited insurance and it isn't a contractor warranty at all. What level of cover, and at what cost are these?

Thanks, Nick, the DDragon

Id only be using contact matt for it's filling and sanding qualities, that'd be ok as an undercoat in the bathroom, right?

So I have had a polypipe autobalancing manifold installed. The installer never noted the flow rates on the old manifold and I don’t know the loop lengths. So am installing Salus THB23031 Auto-Balancing Underfloor Heating Actuator.

Indeed, but domestic CW are not ‘mega-money’ and are paid by the client; ergo they are transparent and cannot be garnished.

My main point is that some consultants recommend all that stuff and heavy penalties, and that I as a contractor would regard that as increased risk, and a legalistic client, and probably increase the tender sum. I've explained that to some clients, (business people), who were happy to negotiate a happy medium. Also to some consultants who admitted that they hadn't thought of that.