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probably like the polyplumb stuff with a toothed metal retaining ring. Can only really remove them by sliding back over down the pipe or cutting them off.

I can confirm that the advice I got from Gus was helpful, and the more so because he does it for a living. I'm sure the administrators are well able to spot when people are on the forum motivated by commercial interest rather than collaboration.

And the quote from Jean-Paul Junkers - "Every politician knows what they should do. What they don't know is how to get elected again afterwards".

Not sure why I ended up reading the Toolstation reviews, but if you are attempting something @ProDave just be aware that one of the reviews says "Designed for single use so not ideal. Can be disassembled to enable reuse with a little gentle persuasion." Might be wise to use the coupler approach if you do anything rather than try to disassemble the elbow...

I liked someone's advice in a prev discussion. Buy a German or German approved one. The quality will be good and safety thought through.

Smear in clear silicone is what nhbc inspectors look for below sinks where waste cut into shelf.

Again, similar but no flats. Unbranded so fits with cheap builders: https://www.toolstation.com/elbow/p46696?

This brand, Whitespeed looks like it: https://www.static-caravan-spares.co.uk/15mm-elbow-connector-white

Look very carefully at your detail - there are a couple of timber elements missing that are needed to make this detail 'buildable' and they will impact the psi-value. Also regarding the general detailing of an I-joist corner - is your detail from an approved source/manufacturer? I'm thinking more from a structural connection perspective here. I do not know how psiclops works so cannot comment if the above are down to user input or how psicops handles the data.

How many homes have 2 way RCBOs/RCDS with solar currently - suspect not many. Does yours?

'Cavity barriers' and 'fire stopping' are totally different items and are noted as such in Appr Doc B. Fire stopping is normally related to compartment walls and floors found in blocks of flats, semi detached and terraced houses. Even the BCO is confused!

As @carlos21 says, just crack the compression nut off the tap, add a compression coupler, add pipe, make back off into the OS tap. Simples. Don't bother with isolators, just knock off the mains in the street and crack on.

The designer will follow the law, the BCO will enforce it. You would need to support this with written evidence to the contrary, do you have such reference material? I find it difficult to accept that a practicing BCO would make such a bold statement, post Grenfell, if it wasn't valid. I can accept this in principle, because at the point where these would become effective, circa 55-57 degrees C of flames licking around them, the sad reality is that the occupants (remaining inside) would have likely already expired due to smoke inhalation. Almost nobody dies from being 'burned alive'; they would have already succumbed to the toxic smoke. At that point, your external cavity fire prevention would be doing absolutely feck all for these lost souls. So, that being my personal opinion, the above BCO makes a valid statement in actuality, but I cannot say that it was lawful for them to say so, as I am not completely fluent with these regs personally. Common sense should prevail here; for my current and subsequent 2 self-build clients, I raised the subject of "automatic fire suppression". It wasn't "needed", but the client chose to adopt this anyways, at reasonable cost, to safeguard his family. In addition, I routinely add 2 - 3x the required number of smoke / heat / multi-sensor detectors for the best line of defence, aka 'early warning', as this is hands-down the one thing that saves lives. External cavity measures are borderline irrelevant for a regular domestic dwelling of 1 or 2 stories, in my own opinion.

Fire protection in timber frames is very tricky. But I have to say that for a BCO to make a statement such as this is astounding, given that you have timber frame construction. To make such a statement is not in alignment with current design understanding and the law. I suspect that the person that made this statement is less experienced and has just made a mistake in the way they have written. Just say they have. The bottom line, if you look at the fine print, you’ll find that they have little or no liability. The real liability rests with either you or you designer.

Waterproof PVA 🤣 A smear of silicone Lick of varnish Used all three from time to time and all good options. Waterproof PVA would be my choice if it's MDF, silicone if it's chipboard.

Fab.

I think it’s first and foremost the responsibility of the self builder (in our cases at least) to design stuff that looks right in its place. Some peeps seem to feel it’s an exercise in getting as much over on the planners/neighbours as possible, which I think is a shame. I know it’s an ‘only rain at night’ type of notion but trying one’s best to build in harmony has got to be the best starting point. But I recognise that we need planners to limit the unharmonious.

The electrical industry raised some concerns about this but turns out it isn't a bit deal. The devices work two way they just aren't tested/certified for it. Exception might be if the mains power is down and the panel is feeding power to the grid (but that can't happen due to the mandatory safety checks built in).

I’d have assumed even a couple of amps pushed the wrong way through old and/or one way RCBOs/RCD would have given them a problem. Nicely inclusive though. I can imagine the real payback being in change of attitude from apathy/impotence to yes, we can do a bit.

Gen 2 Starlink is their own proprietary plug. Gen 3 is basically an RJ45. Just come off of my flat roof with my lad final fitting the new Gen 3 dish. We have TWO Gen 2 Starlink cables sitting here doing nothing. Gen 2: Gen 3, basically standard RJ45 connectors:

No sure if you were referring to our comment, but just for completeness (in case helpful to others) we are bound by B4, so the relevant walls have cement board over our timber frame and fire treated cladding, in addition to the appropriate cavity closures and intumescent strip.

I rubbed in clear Sika EBT into my raw edges, seems to have worked.

We have delved further into this. Did I mention this extension was build by Bodgit and Scarper (very) Limited. I could not repeat a single word said of them on this forum. As far as I can tell the whole extension is plumbed with this type of pipe and fittings. Delving deeper. That elbow disappears through the wall, half of it foamed in part buried in the wall. Looking inside it gets worse. It comes out in a small boxed in section behind the downstairs wc. Looking into that the whole lot of the boxed in section is filled with expanding foam. If there is an isolator, it would be very hard to reach and would need the expanding foam digging out. Best to assume no isolator for that outside tap. B&S Ltd living up to their reputation. Having discussed all this with the home owner I think we have decided this is a can of worms that is not worth opening. Will get some pipe insulation for that exposed length of pipe.

Hiya. You are absolutely right to raise this point, which is valid. I use my own name on BH, a quick search on the internet will show that I run a design business. I was attracted to join BH as I felt it was non commercial. Initially I never mentioned that I do this as a day job, but as time passed I felt I could not bring my knowledge and advice to bear effectively without actually saying I do this as a day job. In light of that I wrote to the moderators and asked for their advice. I definitely don't want to get banned from BH as I enjoy sharing what I know and helping folk. I see your valid comments were possibly prompted by my response to @LnP. I spent some time earlier today just chatting on the phone with him. Once piece of advice I gave him was that he should employ a local Engineer and provided reasons why he should do this. However, occasionally once in a while members chat with me they write to me formally and ask if I will undertake their design. This is arguably a breech of BH rules, which is why I asked for moderator advice. I'll leave it at that for now as the moderators may wish or not add to my response.

Trimmed some end panels and have some non faced edges that I’d like to protect. once upon a time it used to be pva that was used to protect them. But since times have moved on and it’s been shown that pva is no good around moisture could I paint on sbr instead? I’m guessing at this point so please put me straight 👍. ta, marek