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Sheltered under the eaves / gable & with no brickwork above, so no dripping water even if it the inner face gets wet.
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Not necessarily - horses for courses. The 110 more often than not will be rubber seals push fit. Adaptors are often solvent welds. Traps most often compression fittings. The rest can be any of the above. Think in terms of future maintenance and any potential long term changes. No change hard to get at places - solvent weld for permanent trouble free fixing. Everywhere else consider the other options - especially if you might need to move something to get at something else (eg to replace a tap).
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Round Concrete Inspection Chamber Lid - where to get one?
Oxbow16 replied to Oxbow16's topic in Waste & Sewerage
Great, thank you. Don't know how I managed to fail to find them! Must have been using the wrong terms. Seems they're no good for a driveway though anyhow, as you say, so will look for 320mm alternatives that are rated for vehicles. And hope that they fit! -
First floor bathroom / bathroom en-suite wastes
Rishard replied to Rishard's topic in General Plumbing
Great. This makes much more sense than trying to run multiple individual wastes back to the stack. I want them all to be ran in the floor void to keep the rooms as clear as possible. Would I be right in thinking all these bends / connections want to be solvent welded connections? -
Registering a new address
Alan Ambrose replied to nod's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Ah, that’s good - it includes the ‘not yet built’ database -
What if the other 3 walls of the garage 4" brickwork
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Yeh but if the other walls of the garage are 4" brickwork with pillars what would it be achieving. Logically it wouldn't have any benefit?
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I suspect that they will, but you'll have to ask. While it may be a garage, few garages these days seem to get used for parking cars - and whatever it gets used for instead may be disrupted / damaged if rain does start dripping in.
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For those finding their address is still not on the PAF, have a look here and see if you can find your house listed: https://www.findmyaddress.co.uk/search If you can find it there you will find it's UPRN, Unique Property Reference Number. How I wish that was widely used instead of the PAF. If your address is not on the PAF it WILL NOT stop post being delivered. The only time it proves an issue is if you try and buy something on line and the supplier only offers "enter your postcode and select your house" Any sensible merchant that allows the option of enter address manually and you will have no problem.
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Hi Dave, how are you doing? The warranty was 3 years. The recon unit would be of the latest version, but I have similar concerns, hence my second question. I've spoken to the installer, who says he's come across this issue before and, in his experience, it's not something that can be easily (or economically) fixed. Online searches suggest it can sometimes be caused by a loose terminal or broken contactor, or a faulty relay, but I wouldn't have a clue what to look for, and even if I did I wouldn't have confidence in being able to safely dismantle and fix it.
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Sense check for ASHP & UFH design
Nick Laslett replied to timhowes's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
I agree that the Panasonic’s Aquarea website and brochures are a bit of a mess. They also seem keen on various bundles that complicate the situation. I think the newer “L” series is finally available standalone. If you are happy with R32 coolant then the “J” series monoblock is what you want. T-cap is for very low outside temps. 5kW, 7kW, 9kW are all the same single fan machine: WH-MDC—J3E5, 05,07,09 in place of the two dashes. The Secon Renewables website is the best place to look at the various Panasonic ASHPs offering. https://www.seconrenewables.com/panasonic-heat-pumps-266-c.asp -
Masons mitre or butt joint for solid wood joint
Dunc replied to paro's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
+1 on butt joints with biscuits (not glued) and 2 or 3 bolts recessed in the underside. Just a bit of CT1/OB1 at the top of the connecting faces before clamping up. Worked fine on my previous kitchen which had 3 joints in oak worktops. Stainless steel screws in slotted brackets to hold it to the wall or units underneath. -
What does this architectural symbol mean?
Nickfromwales replied to Tony L's topic in Surveyors & Architects
Just thought it best for a quick sanity check. One can get quite lost going down various hypothetical rabbit-holes, when it’s all you keep staring at. -
Anybody using Eon NextDrive Tariff ?
Michael_S replied to mk1_man's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
WE are also on the 7 hour eon tariff (6.7p) and with V2H and 2 EVs we use up to about 80kwh from batts for our heat pump and general usage in the day rate period. Likely to try for utility warehouse E7 tariff when our eon ends in May, not sure about export at that point. -
There should be a cavity tray at this point. Perhaps it’s not specific in the Approved Document but the Building Regulations require that a wall resists rainwater penetration. In this instance the external wall becomes an internal wall below the roof and under severe wind driven rain the internal wall may become saturated if no cavity tray. I would imagine BCO will insist on one but you need to check as their interpretation & enforcement may differ.
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What does this architectural symbol mean?
Tony L replied to Tony L's topic in Surveyors & Architects
No. I'm in a low part of Surrey. I'm going to forget about snow for now, & resume the work on my drawings. I'm sure I'll be back with another question about my BC/construction drawing amends soon. -
So with a single storey garage adjoining a 2 storey house would you bother with the stepped tray or not. It's going to disrupt the continuity of insulation, im not even sure if blown insulation would overcome this. The garage wouldn't be integrated so would have good ventilation. I wonder if bco would make you put the tray in or in this case let you omit.
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Registering a new address
Alan Ambrose replied to nod's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Yeah, there’s a ‘new build database’ or something and the standard ‘actually exists’ database. My LPA insisted on putting us on the former. That means that all but a few switched-on merchants can’t see it. Annoying for deliveries. -
What does this architectural symbol mean?
SteamyTea replied to Tony L's topic in Surveyors & Architects
Has AI removed the muscular man doing the painting. -
What does this architectural symbol mean?
Nickfromwales replied to Tony L's topic in Surveyors & Architects
She seems way too happy about ladders. Do you get much snow? -
What does this architectural symbol mean?
Tony L replied to Tony L's topic in Surveyors & Architects
Thanks for your thoughts on this, @Gus Potter. Re: gutter fall & high end/low end detail, I’m anticipating giving the gutter a good fall. The gutter will be behind the aluminium trim, which will be perfectly horizontal. That’s a good point about snow sliding down the roof ripping the gutter off. I hadn’t considered that. What I had considered was polishing the standing seam with ceramic coat, to make it easy to clean & that would definitely increase the chances of a covering of snow sliding off, as a big slab. We’re going for a black roof, & I can see myself getting my long pole washing device out to clean off any birds’ muck that might appear. As the roof is standing seam, I don’t think it would be too much of a problem to modify some PV brackets (or buy purpose made brackets) to hold some poles across the bottom of the roof, to make a snow guard. They could just go on for January/Feb, or perhaps if I make a good job, they could be permanent. It might be good to incorporate a little Tyrolean design influence. It’s my favourite part of the world. I can see gutter cleaning being a real problem on a proper 2 storey house with the type of roof & gutter I’m aiming for. You wouldn’t want to put a ladder up against the delicate edge trim that hides the gutters. In my case, the gutters are only at first floor height, so I’ll be able to access them using a step ladder, or better still, I have some of these mobile steps I can use. -
Clippa plate or similar between joist ufh
Nickfromwales replied to Selfbuildsarah's topic in Underfloor Heating
Yup. I’ve allowed to insulate the flow and returns along the lengthy landing area, to ensure any heat we introduce is going exactly where I want it to. -
Clippa plate or similar between joist ufh
JohnMo replied to Selfbuildsarah's topic in Underfloor Heating
We find exactly the same on a long thin (25m long) single storey. Open bedroom doors everywhere is the same temperature an hour later. Our last house 3 storey (built in 1830) bedrooms with doors open ended up same temperature as rest of house. We just never needed to have bedroom heating on. -
Clippa plate or similar between joist ufh
ProDave replied to Selfbuildsarah's topic in Underfloor Heating
Whatever you do, only fit heating in actual rooms. DO NOT waste effort fitting on a landing or room with no separation from the landing, it WILL NOT be needed. We have to keep the bedroom door shut tight to keep the bedroom down to the temperature swmbo likes about 17 degrees and we have no heating in there. This week has been mild so the bedroom window has been opened at times to keep the temperature down.
