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Can I ask those who have done whole house ASHP for DHW, heating and cooling who did your system design. I have decided that I want UFH downstairs and ceiling mounted fan coil cassette units upstairs, but I want to install the system myself, except the ASHP or the parts that I cannot install myself. I suspect that if I simply give my plans to a ASHP company and get them to supply and install, it's going to cost a fortune, hence why I am keen to get a system designed, so I know what is required. I could be over analysing this, and it's a simple case of understanding the heat loss calcs for each room and then simply purchasing the appropriate fan coil unit and running the pipework to the unit from the plant room and if appropriate putting in condensate drains.

How cold is it where you are ? I’ve built my workshop very well with high levels of insulation, I installed one of the 40mm panel doors, it’s pretty shit and I’m unimpressed for the cost. but the workshop isn’t cold, it sits at around 13-14 degrees all the time a simple fan heater for 15mins and it’s up to 16 -17 which is plenty for me doing woodwork stuff. it feels loads colder than the house but it’s not unpleasant to be in if working.

Must be those cloven hooves for fingers of yours. I have a very gentle touch.

Yup, including the surface of the plasterboard, meaning the whole thing needs doing again. Rod. Back. 👎

Swopped from gas in stages, but ASHP motivation was cooling via UFH. The boiler basically ended having to go it couldn't pay it's way, with gas standing charges and preferentially better ToU tariffs for electric, once I got the smart meter sorted

I'm a bit surprised an installer would install a system if it wasn't able to heat your home. What are the specs of the new system? You've put effort in here but you say that you can still feel cold air. Do you think this is because cold air is still coming through gaps you can't seal or because air is cooling down on the cold wall and causing air movement within the room? If you think it's air coming from outside the room then there is still work to do there, what issues are there that prevent more sealing? An uninsulated but relatively sealed room should still be able to be warmed. Others experience on here with similar walls is that once you get them up to temperature they can be relatively good at keeping the heat in. It just takes a lot of energy to get them up to temp. If you are running your system in an on-off manner you will never get enough energy into the walls and they will always be cold and suck the heat out of the room. So, assuming you are currently running in an on off fashion, a good experiment to run is to leave the heating on 24/7 for maybe 2 weeks and see if it slowly brings the rooms up to temp. (obviously requires relatively good air sealing).

There always lots of content about why not to get a heat pump installed, but I would like to know why you chose to get a heat pump installed instead of a fossil fuel boiler? Doesn't matter whether it's for retrofit/renovation or new build, I'm just interested to know. And what were the pain points that were most difficult to overcome? Was it just the price or is it in line with so many posts on BH that it's difficult to find a decent system designer and installer?

My feet are so cold being in main room this afternoon I'm just about to go to bed 5:15pm/ under thick duvet/ leccy blanket on... only way I can warm up! Still with thick hat + scarf on!

We are 4 plus dog in a volume of above 900m3. But as I mentioned above, ventilation requirements change dramatically once a hydrophilic fabric is introduced into the equation. So, to quote from an earlier study I read when deciding on my design: https://web.ornl.gov/sci/buildings/conf-archive/2004 B9 papers/002_Simonson.pdf Now, it does acknowledge that consideration regarding air polutants is probably separate, but other studies using MVHR show similar reductions on ventilation requirements simply because moisture drive such a significant proportion of those ventilation requirements. Yes, indeed. At some point when I actually find some spare time, I might draw together my collection of research into this and building physics just so there more readily available reference.

Generally 57mm is the thickest standard joinery. You can use a 3deg cutter in a 1/2" router for a leading egde

Is your finger sore from tracing the words and your lips still moving. Will this latest LLM make you a better girlfriend that will indulge all your pervy fantasies.

Haven't seen those before, but I wouldn't expect them to do anything tbh. They may for about a foot.. but then it turns into cold air. Having done all I can to seal gaps, & thick curtains, making a total of zero difference.. it's very evident that with such colossal cold coming up from the floor (chiefly the main culprit being the biggest surface area), in from the sides via 3ft thick stone walls acting like cold rads, behind the warm rads (kinda effectively cancelling the warm rads out).. & cold air coming down from the loft directly onto room ceiling edges all around the room, I can't make any headway into subduing the cold. The only way to make -some positive difference-, & you just know this is a fact from living here, is excavating floor/ insulation/ underfloor heating. But the cost of both that, & the running cost of the 6x5m underloor area, warm enough to feel it (you're still battling the 4x cold walls' injecting cold into the room so you'd need double any normal room's output from such a system).. would be hugely expensive for me. I do though have a relatively direct path from the cylinder -so my installer said- down only 2m below to the "entry point" of such an underfloor heating element. But I just know it'll only be partially successful. Without insulating the walls & ceiling-which are both simply n/a plans without huge expense themselves, & downsizing the room significantly, and losing much character too- it's just not really worth banking on the UFH idea, unless 100% sure it'll make a significant improvement. I just know it won't. I have a friend locally who did just this, same type of freezing slate stone cottage main room, same almost totally innefective 9kW stove wasting money in the hearth: he laid floor insulation & UFH & you can barely tell the difference before & after. Huge outlay, for minimal gain. Unlike him, I do have the heating system that could 'power' the UFH idea in my one main room though. So i have mulled the idea. But then 20mins in my £500 'Onoff' cabin down near my stream & I'm toasty-warm.. I think what's the bloomin point. £500 Cabin laughs at the £125k cottage!

My other thread “ voice control “ is bollocks Anyone looked at how these work ? (expletive deleted)ing amazing ! . I mean what a LLM does engineering wise ! Been reading non stop all weekend! The possibilities are mind boggling . Local llm is going to be insane …. I’m so excited ! (expletive deleted) me ! Couple this with multiple microphone arrays . Jesus ! Stay tuned for insanity and “ Wow (expletive deleted) me “ moments . Nerds only need respond to this thread others can (expletive deleted) about with dpc and which happy meal to order .

Are you still running like a normal heating system i.e. turning it off at night and when you are out.

The modern enshittified search engines are worthless and just keep spitting out the same endless "hurr durr normal interior doors are between blah blah blah" nonsense no matter how I phrase this question so hopefully someone here has actual experience. I want to build(or modify) a side-hinged 1/3-2/3 garage door because it seems like the choices on offer either don't meet the specs I want(all "insulated" garage doors seem to be the exact same set of ~40mm foam/aluminium composite panels no matter which company is selling them, which is woefully insufficient for a year-round-use workshop conversion) or are wildly expensive premium custom jobs, but what I don't have the knowledge to work out is exactly how thick I can make the final doors so they aren't colliding when I try to open them, or what potential relief angles I might have to incorporate. I'm aware the hinges have some impact on it but there must be a rule of thumb I can at least begin planning the project around.

The lads I’ve had on site I can count with one hand. I think I have probably saved £200,000 in labour though which is what I wanted.

Not life or death. Carry on as you are sir.

Congrats!!!! 🥳

Thanks. Really helpful. Can I ask why put the yellow behind the upstand when on the other edges it goes in front? I thought it was to decouple screed from insulation etc? Attached is how the other external edges are done where there isn’t a door.

Leave the yellow foam about 10mm higher than top of screed, to deal with any splashing of screed or a ‘wave’ accidentally going over the upstand. Cut it back after the screed has dried.

Ha I know that feeling. I bet every self builder gets that. Sometimes even when you pay Somebody to do a job its worse than you could've done yourself.

I've seen a few mentions of the OV10 https://www.roofingventilation.co.uk/Over-Fascia-Vent-10mm-x-1m-Harcon-OV10 vents going over the felt support tray to get ventilation into the counter-batten space when using full fill mineral wool between the rafters and a low resistance membrane. I've just seen this product from Klober which seems to do the same job - anyone used this? https://klober.co.uk/roof-ventilation/eaves-roof-ventilation/p/eaves-closer

I have been tuning my system over the last couple of weeks and kept hitting a lot of instability. I think what is occurring, is outside temp increases, heat pump tries to change flow temperature per compensation curve, but return temperature stubbornly stays where it is, due to the big slab of concrete not changing temperature readily (in like a radio system). So it backs off some more, then some more, and nearly trips itself up, so loads on more power to protect itself and move operating parameters out of trouble zone - this keeps repeating. The old ASHP cycled, so just stopped and waited as temperature outside changed to get a new return temp to it's liking and started up again. The new one doesn't it's determined to keep running, so isn't playing ball with WC. So I have reverted to a fixed flow temperature, mild temps I cover off with a thermostat as a high stop. I chose 28.5 degs flow temp as that should be ok for my house most of the time, thermostat will stop over heating when mild if heat pump doesn't modulate enough. Suspect your 200mm thick slab (mine 100mm), will cause more issues.

I’d go with my above, simple, robust etc, and leaves a completely flush surface to lay flooring to.

Standing seam is great for large areas as the middle is easy. The edges are difficult, so it isn't great for small areas. Standing seam is industrial cladding pretending to be lead. I don't mind seeing screws and saving 1/3 or more.