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Would you mind sharing your source of filter material?

What hob is it? Our down draft induction hob has a grease filter followed by a carbon filter and then discharges to the room at floor level. I would certainly be concerned about ducting air that hadn’t been filtered for grease into the units or at floor level. At least on the floor you could clean it with ease, into the units it’ll just go rancid over time and, well…

As shown at the beginning of this thread in the line drawings. Outward opening patio & French doors.

Our wasn’t necessarily cheap (but thanks to info from @JohnMo massively cheaper than the first quote we got). The tariff dictates our usage, currently 15p export and 7p/29.14p import. We’d be mad to use our solar when the batteries take us through the day with ease and the off peak tariff heats the house/water does the dishes/washing charges the car etc etc. Sure the tariff will change, and is about to, and working out ROI would be tricky, too many variables etc but our annual usage at peak rate would be around £2500/year. Last year we paid minus £400. Which is nice.

Same size plant room here. No UFH fitted. It's 25.5C now but nothing is on. We use it as a drying room with a kitchen maid attached to the ceiling. I did consider putting a vent in the door to utilise the excess heat. Ecodan 300 litre HW cylinder. Consumer unit. UFH Manifold and wiring centre. Not in use as we have not needed to heat the lg floor. PV diverter. Has MVHR extract. You have a lot of kit in one room so 26C-27C to be expected. Congratulations on moving in.

And if you try to insulate these pipes the cooling effect in the room would reduce which might be a negative... ... because I'd expect the heat sources to vary over the year. Winter will be the heating system, summer will be the solar electronics working flat out.

Sorry, I can't help with this, but I must congratulate you on moving in, having completed your build so quickly. You're an inspiration to us all. & thanks for documenting your progress on here too - it's a real help to those of us who are not there yet.

Hopefully prices will drop. I have zero idea how London functions when normal housing is so many multiples of normal income.

Congratulations on moving in. You could borrow a thermal camera and check what the worst offenders are.

A lot of heat generators in a small area, the 16 loops if not insulated, would make the room hot, battery, inverter and cylinder will all add to it. Summer will be hot, running cooling via UFH should offset the heat some what.

Red batten, nail. Never had an issue.

Sounds like a really successful build if this is the main worry after moving in! Not an expert but the little plant room that I have (boiler, cylinder, consumer unit with a few electrical bits) is similar, gets a lot hotter in summer. 27C isn't really going to worry electronics etc. I'd monitor over summer and if you find the room getting about 35C or causing other problems then may be worth doing something but 27C doesn't warrant much concern in my book.

We have just moved in to our now build and it is all running at a very comfortable 21ish degrees... except for our Plant/Tech room, which is persistently running at 26-27C despite having no dedicated heating as such. There are reasons of course. In the plant room are: 27kWh of battery storage. 12kW inverter 300l HW cylinder The internal unit of a Panasonic 9kW ASHP The manifolds for 16 UFH loops Zenhder Q350 MVHR unit Many of the UFH pipes run from the manifold under the plant room floor and I don't believe they were well insulated, so that may be the biggest cause of the heat in that room. The plant room does have an MVHR extract valve, so some of that heat is being extracted and exchanged to the fresh air coming in to the house. The room itself is 1.8m x 2.9m and an average of 2.2m high and is insulated to the same standard as the rest of the house of course. Two questions: Should we be worried? What might we do about it? (I have been thinking about putting down a thinn insulating floor just to lessen the heat gain from the UFH pipes.) Anyone else have similar issues?

Mine is based on the decidedly old school economy 7 tariff that's been around forever and will prob still be around for some time to come given the number of people on all electric heating with no heatpump eg all electric flats. My batteries were sized to cover 90% of my days. As the export rate falls I'll have to get smarter about only filling the battery as much as I need but for now (this winter) fill up at night on 14p electric seems to be the best strategy.

We a have an almost complete new airtight house (0.59ACH) complete with MVHR. We will have an an induction hob with built in ventilation. The hob will be set to recirculate with most of the grease being absorbed by the carbon filter. The kitchen fitter and a diagram within installation instruction seem to suggest that the exhaust air should be allowed to find its own way into the kitchen from the hobs exhaust. Per AEG.pdf I feel the slightly greasy warm moist air will do no good to the insides of the island and suggested to the kitchen fitter that it would be better if we used a 220x90mm PVC duct to connect to the hob (AEG provided the appropriate adapter with the hob) directly to a hole through the plinth into the kitchen. I will find a grill to cover over this. The 2m of duct plus a 90degree bend will only cost £30 so to me it seems to be a no brainer. Any thoughts? The diagram below shows the proposed path of the duct. With duct.pdf

I thought you had previously told us the flow temperature was set to 46. I'm not suggesting you change it. If it's something else tell us what it is. In reality the best flow temp is one that varies depending on the outside temperature. It's higher when its colder and lower when its warmer outside. But that's all to complicated to worry about right now. I'm trying to get you to focus on just the most important things. Everything else can be looked at in future.

@-rick- I have known my HW temp is 46*C. Because I set this (so have some competency using the controller-thermostat). Now you are suggesting in the prior post here, that 46 is also good for my Flow Temperature. But by the same token (& I believe this to be true), you've told me that my HW setting isn't directly linked-in with my Flow temp. So. Is it simply a coincidence that you now also suggest 46 as a 'decent medium setting' for my Flow temp? -- (Matshian says it's "hard for him": chaps please bear in mind that that may well be so, but it's 10x as hard for me: I do sense Rick here understands this. Thx). Zoot

To which you replied “go feck yourself”?

Yup hard work for me too mr.marshian.. As I -did- get why you used your alien there.. but even so... you still haven't answered my Q. After trying three times in 3 successive posts. Look, you're getting fed up. That is understandable, I profess full idiocy with regard to this HP. But look, do yourself a favour, leave it to these other kind folks? I am honestly not wanting you to get angry, & really appreaciate trying to help me. But it is perhaps complicating things just a bit further for me, yourself having gas CH. Using gas CH numbers perhaps that I cannot relate to. With thanks, Zoot

@zoothorn Don't go changing settings you don't need to. 46 is fine. @marshian and I may debate what is best, but what you have is plenty to get your place warm. 46 is a perfectly normal temperature for someone with radiators. 'Medium' if you like. If it was over 50 it might be an issue. Long term lower may be better but it really doesn't matter right now when you are cold. Just focus on adjusting the timer. Maybe as a learning exercise set yourself the task of changing the evening heat period from 2 hours to 3 hours. Change nothing else. Just extend that time from 2 to 3 hours. Once you've done that we can talk about other changes. I've been busy today so will reply to the other stuff tomorrow.

I think mine is set to 2 degrees hysteresis. It is more about where the cylinder thermostat probe is placed. Initially mine was in the upper pocket (I only have one probe) and that meant the ASHP did not come on for a long time, as with normal HW usage the water does not mix and remains in layers and with the probe near the top it was a long time and a lot of water usage until the hot cold transition reached the probe and the ASHP started heating. For certain members of the family that like long showers that could mean the shower ran out before time. Moving the probe to the lower pocket meant the probe sensed the cold water much earlier on in the usage and started re heating sooner.

Christ this is hard work - my BH user id is Marshian - You know like from another planet - oh maybe the planet Mars - my better half - Mrs "Alien" (You know like from another planet) I know it's not spelt like that!!!!

I did plenty of testing. On a light use day a big hysterisis may mean your whole cylinder drops well below a usable temp. A normal use day it may be fine, but suspect you will have difficulty conversations with the other half, when the shower is like warm at best. So be ready for your head on a plate

@marshian Respectfully as you are trying to help using simple analogies like Aliens, but even so, I am still lost. I am confused here, about whether you are referring to a -room temp- of 19*C to 25*C (19-25 figures tally with a room temp figure that I set my old folks storage heater to), or, whether you're a answering my question of.. Can someone tell me what an average Flow Temperature setting, for this HP is? I just want to make sure the basics are in place, before I start changing settings to this Auto/ Timer thing. Anything 'medium' is ok. I'll just whack that in. You see if I were to find the recent installer has dialed in an excessively high figure, then this isn't put in with efficiency in mind, so I need to lower it (& vice-versa, but as the rads seem fairly hot, then I don't suppose he's dialed in too low a figure- may have though, for all I know). It might well be 19-25*C!! I don't know. I suspect the Flow Temp is a different ballpark to this typical room temp though. Like 46 or something.. although 46 as a figure I know is my HW temp. Which I now know is -separate- to the Flow Temp, from the most recent replies. Thanks Zoot

If you use thin battens they will split, but there are screws and screws. Using self drilling screws makes a big difference, 50mm battens makes things better also