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Our DIY new build has a flat roof (12 degrees). This is huge at 24m * 9m and will be metal. It's a barn conversion so we are limited to this design. I'm being told that you can't have in-roof solar on flat roofs, is that really the case or have I just not found the right supplier. Our planning does not allow us to go any higher than the top roof height, but also says we must have solar and we don't have space for ground mounted. The roof is pointing south with nothing stopping the sun so is an idea location. I don't want to cover the whole roof due to the size. Thanks

We are DIY Self building in 3 phases, over many years. Phase 1 walls are finished with a temp roof, made from the old barn roofing sheets with the final posi joists as this is a separate roof. We are now looking at doing the same for phase 2, but we don't want the final posi-joists as the whole roof needs to be done in one hit. Does anyone know a good place to get 4*2 timber for joists that will ultimately become firewood. they do need to be long long, one side is 4m and the other side 6m. I will need about 25 of each length. These are partly to brace the walls until we are ready for whole roof and partly to allow us to store equipment which is currently in another part of the barn. Any suggestions greatly received. TIA Jill

There was a time when dubious quality was being imported so it makes sense.

If your project is big enough then you will get an account, subject to credit checks or paying as you go. They may say trade only, but just ask for the manager or sales rep.

My thoughts are, during the heating off season, is to run the boiler flow temp at 75c, set the cylinder stat at 55c and only run the DHW heating cycle for 30mins at a time 2 times a day. During the heating season I would reduce the boiler flow temp to 65c which hopefully will satisfy the house heating and will mean the boiler will run longer hence heating the HWC at the same time.

No he was in late 50s the Steel company said it is a new rule after 2023

Thanks Alan, The surveyors came out today and seemed very thorough. I did ask them to record the cable level of the phone line that runs across both entrances so all good there.

Thanks @Nickfromwales No point replacing the elbow if the waste outlet turns out to be the problem. I'm flat out today but I'll take a look when I can.

Yesterday, when the HW was half way through a coasting session, I manually opened the hearting motorised valve, after 1 or 2 mins the boiler fired. I had a feeling the HWC was going to be the culprit and I think this proves it. Looks like something I will have to live with or spend some money on a new cylinder.

Some of this is down to the supplier. Will they give your PM his normal discount if the order isn't going through his account? If it is going through his account then you will probably have issues with the reclaim. Chances are we are only talking about a few builders merchants. Why not ask your PM if he can help you get an account at the BM, possibly with a similar discount ?

I'm intrigued though. I've never been asked for one in hundreds of projects. Was it a keen young bco?

Order a new one and reduce the pain. CT1 would ‘get you fixed’, but if it’s an easily identifiable item then you know what to do

Yes quick payback is battery and cheap rate charge. We have 6.5kWp of solar and batteries. This allows us to only import at the cheap rate overnight, so no standard rate, or very, very little. The only time we import at standard rate is if the family are home during the winter and we haven't enough battery, or solar to cover the hot water usage, cooking etc. Our Octopus bill last year was £150 for the whole year, that's for everything, heating, DHW, cooking etc. That's for a 250m2 all electric house with ASHP, MVHR etc.

isnt the spigot upstream of the trap? if so then you'll have the water in the trap to keep the odors out. I dont think water will travel uphill to the spigot but i guess it depends on its position in relation to the water seal. You can get a blanking cap, like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blanking-Appliance-Waste-Inlet-Traps/dp/B0FW7R71FG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1Y1LKMP81BDBI

Understood. Yes this drops down from first floor level to ground level and out to the inspection chamber. The family bathroom joins this same 110 stack. Would I need an aav on the family bathroom side too?

And wrap tape or cling film around end to stop and splashed and odours

just swivel it so it points upwards?

Got it sorted now went in to steel merchant and when speaking to the face to face they were able to sort it and provide paper work There is nothing else to add the building inspector came out for final inspection and the only thing that we could not provide was the steel performance certificate that he asked for.

If that's the case you may need max flow temp from boiler to get anywhere. Turn your thermostat down to what it achieves, then that is the simple no cost solution. Walk away and have a cup of tea. Other than that your options are spend money. External plate heat exchanger and pump or new cylinder with a big coil (do 3m²) then you can flow at 60 degs and get 55 Deg water and heat in about 10 to 15 mins.

I’ve had to remove our washing machine so obviously taken then waste pipe off. Until I get a new one, what do I need to cap this off so the water doesn’t gush out under the sink?

Been busy at work, it had been a strange year

going to be personal preference on this one i think. Might be time for ChatGPT to mock that up if you have a photo.

Who me? Yes and I'm quite good at it. But deadlines, the 4 hours a day stamina, and the family veto are the issues. It's a point though that perhaps we ask elsewhere. I expect the same from any floorer except that 'abort and charge' threat.

Ah it's been a while! Not sure if it's the forum being quieter or you've been slacking

Can you not fit the floor yourself?