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Just asked your wife and she said she was in a hurry to get home.

Or ask the wife to switch it on/off.

That's a good shout actually. I've a cable tray setter I made when at college, that might do it.

25mm could be added top or bottom. Gives an overlap too. Thermal mass is another conversation, but often used to justify over-designed slabs. Eps about £50/m3 pir £80/m3, grout £400/m3

I'd say that using steel 2mm or thicker won't be noisy. For a cone, cut a segment from a circle and reweld and that won't be noisy either. Is a downturn going to help? Maybe just turning with pliers will do it in crinkly fashion.

I don’t in particular. But if my gate pulse sensor is connected to a loxone relay I might as well connect the wire loop into it as well seeing as I have a loxone intercom controlling ingress? I think a wire loop sounds like the way to go 👍

Thinking to fire up the plasma in the morning and cut a say 16" circle out of some thin stainless sheet I have here as a start. Maybe drag the torch round an old wheel rim. Thinking won't a flat plate be noisy in the rain? Is a conical cowl necessary? I've no method either of rolling a downturn/lip on said disc.

All I got from that was "hands free".

I know using stainless electrodes for electrolysis isn't a good idea as it produces toxic hexavalent chromium, Cr6+ at the anode. It does work mind as I've tried it.

Good job! As a master procrastinator myself, little and often seems to work quite well for jobs you'd really rather not do.

1. We’ve already bought the 150mm insulation 2. Thicker screed provides greater thermal mass for retaining the heat from the UFH

First hit in Google https://www.bpdstore.co.uk/glidevale-energy-saver-humidity-sensitive-trickle-ventilator/p/182

There's your second issue, not just ventilation, no heating.

I thought the programme was pretty good in showing what could be done, as the vast majority of the public really have no idea. So in that sense, i think it did a great job. It was a shame that the church renovation cost was mentioned as over a million pounds! That will put anyone off renovating to such a standard. I know they did say it was unusually high but thats a number that people will remember. And they did not give an accurate figure for the Manchester house. I love Guy Martins enthusiasm and his explanations/experiments were great. But as said before, it will take a long time for builders to even think about changing their methods, never mind training for it. A friend has recently had to have her lounge floor joists replaced as there was no airbrick and the beams had rotted, with her floor dropping away from the skirting. As they fitted OSB to the beams, I mentioned to make sure the builder used airtight tape to seal the edges, to stop draughts before the new laminate was fitted but she was told it wasnt necessary/appropriate. I think it was a missed opportunity but then why should an experienced builder listen to a friend of the client - and a woman at that!

You know what . I did that . I bed 4 tiles today

Only source of heat is from body, cooking and showering.

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/trimvent-xr16-upvctimber-window-vent-recessed-352-x-16mm-white-906766 I think that these are the trickle vents that we have, I've looked and can't seem to find a humidity controlled replacement, I think that they are the cheapest the Joinery company could be bothered to find.

Just be aware lead should not be longer than 1.5m, I’ve seen lads run a roll of lead from top to bottom of a valley, as it’s long and thin it looks like the obvious thing to do, but expansion kills it.

In theory perhaps not, however this is all academic, because that's what the regulations say. You can't leave live conductors connected to the grid when operating a generating set/inverter and you can't make your own neutral - earth link when connected to the grid. In any case, it won't work when connected like this as you'll have parallel neutral paths and any RCD protecting the grid supply to the inverter will trip out as some current will go via the neutral at the RCD and some via the neutral bar. That schematic is a load of %@!$. I'd be interested to hear what Growatt come back to you with!!

But when air is heated the dew point moves. We have a heated summer house it has dMEV fan, humidity inside hasn't been above 40% for that last month. We have bearly had a dry sunny day in the last month humidity outside closer to 100% most the time. Are you heating the house?

But if there's a neutral to earth bond, as in the schematic, anything the inverter might apply to the neutral line will run to earth?? I appreciate UK regulation/best practice may want the inverter neutral disconnecting from the grid as well as line, but if the neutral is earthed surely there's no hazard??

We never had an air test as I've converted a barn and our regs don't require one. I wouldn't mind getting one done as I think that I've done as good a job as possible, but it's money I don't need to spend at the moment. A combination of indoor clothes drying and fresh air, outside humidity has been between 70% and 100% for the last month here and I've got the dehumidifier set at a target of 60%.

Thanks for the replies. It isn't about not paying, it is about paying what it is worth, which is what we fully intend to do. The builder clearly had a strategy for holding back on pricing, then undertaking the work without questioning whether we wanted to go ahead. In one instance, after 5 months of waiting for a price or their intention to do the work, we informed them we were getting our own contractor in to undertake the work. They then just did the work and want to overcharge us retrospectively.

They aren't obliged to report the test run or do a best of three or whatever.

Dot and dab, but I went all the way along the bottom with a full line of adhesive so nothing is getting to the skirting, same around all window reveals. most sockets too but not all because practically speaking, when you have multiple back boxes close together, the board would just snap with too much adhesive.