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Thanks for the link Nick. Not sure I can get that type out here but I can get the less reliable sump float switches which is an option. So I guess I could try it without and have one as a fall back position, then replace it with the one you suggest.

Not quite correct, you need signed missives by both parties to fully legally binding. And this only gets done at the end of proceedings now - it used to be done at the start of proceedings. So don't count on it.

Just had some scaffolding put up to deal knackered chimney flaunching that is causing water to soak into the chimney. Additionally part of the stack needs repointing, a few spalled bricks replaced and I’m going to apply stormdry to the brickwork. On the north side of the stack I’ve got some pretty heavy efflorescence in places. I’m not massively fussed about the appearance, although it would be nice to get rid of it. This side doesn’t really take the weather, but obviously hasn’t dried out as quick in the sun as the other sides, which has allowed the efflorescence to form. Can barely even scratch it with a screwdriver it’s so hard. Estimate 1-2mm thick or more in places. What should I do? Leave alone and stormdry cream over it? Try and remove it? Guess it would need a wire brush on a grinder or some extremely potent chemicals.

It may be possible that you’re over-thinking the 💩 out of this….. It’s likely to have ‘done’ whatever it needs to do by now anyways. I’ve not poured one yet where it’s a perfect finish, as it varies with thickness etc. Go to the pub instead 🤝👍

In my limited experience, a float valve will cut in again when the water rises. I have a small irrigation pump where there are 2 sensors set at slightly different depths. They simply kick in again.

Is bare OSB, or even painted OSB a good idea inside a habitable room, especially a garden room, which could get very warm inside during the summer? I'd be looking into the possible harmful effects of VOC off gassing if I was considering this.

Once it's under offer we don't allow gazumping here in Scotland.

I'm thinking that the risk there is for the vendor. You might apply for a design that has no chance of approval. Then they have list time and have to marker again. But if going for outline pp then fair enough.... but why wouldn't the vendor go for that first?

If it helps we bought our plot with "subject to planning permission" clause in the offer. It was a previous building plot that had permission in 1980 but was never built on. Our solicitor who was on the ball worded it like this, so that if for some reason planning was refused we could have walked away having only incurred the cost of the planning application, and some fees for his time spent. If planning was granted there would be a binding contract. So we applied for outline permission and all parties waited until that concluded (pp was granted) and the purchase proceeded.

https://www.pumpsalesdirect.co.uk/stuart-turner-f1-float-switch.html?gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=7978823468&gbraid=0AAAAADsQmqZSL0q1iUtKMjQGskUizpzgq&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_7PRBhDcARIsAMjV7jnDEdB05YbjznSjXck0sJBzMwlKIL2y7dRUcIWCMm3E1Nvuhzt6L_gaAv6hEALw_wcB

"All hail the ale!"

Have the rockwool held in place by zig-zagging bricklayers string-line, stapling it into position side to side, to keep it in place (from sagging and contacting the membrane).

Incredibly I've been able to do this. 18mm/m fall on that back wall, more like 25mm/m on the long run. Cut the stack down and add in the boss. Toilet branch to go above it and then another for the sink, all on their own branches. Beer time.

The wall behind the CU is where your AT layer should be? So you'd just airtight the wall from floor to ceiling and then neither the CU or the cabling / grommets are outside / breaching the AT layer. What is the wall construction?

Thank you @LaChab Exactly what I neded to hear and the idea of OSB in the inside is genius, even more saving as no need to plasterboard and have good service for securing

Could he also sell if a better offer came along. Would suspect his and your solicitor will come up with a very different scheme.

A table saw is for sheet material, or trimming down timbers lengthways, not for cross cutting etc. You'll just hurt yourself or the saw. You'll be able to do mitres etc with a chop (mitre) saw too.

Ah ok I did have a chop saw but thought I could change to a table saw (plus jigsaw) as a 'do it all saw', didn't realise people didn't use it for what I am currently doing. I don't remember having this problem with my old blade but perhaps I wasn't cutting much cls. I have the saw located at my workshop entrance so the most dust goes straight outside.

That's the norm in most instances, until the pipe fall naturally drops lower than the underside of the P5. You'll be fine to have such a small area missing.

I try to get the 40mm as near to the shower trap as possible, often using a pair of M&F 45's to get the size drop just under the floorboards. You losing another 5, 10, or even 15mm of joist will have zero consequence in the real world, but will make a big difference in how well the shower discharges.

I'll be getting pretty much through the P5 by the time I get to near the trap but then I can step down to 40mm for that last 300mm which gains me back some height. I was then going to rely on the 6mm ply to bridge it over.

They look horrible compared to a flush or low-profile tray. Yuk

OH! My rendering with reflection/bloom (expletive deleted)s m3 gpu even before local LLM does work. Oh!. looks like I need a 2nd pc just for dashboard!

Are you allowing for the obligatory layer of plywood you'll need over the particle board (chipboard)? Is the board you have P5 / moisture resistant?

Kid in a sweetshop!.