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Hi guys I'm rewiring my 177 sqm house. I will carry out first fix. Electrician to make final connections at consumer unit. I would be gratefully if you could give me feedback on my circuit design: 🏠 SOCKET CIRCUITS 1. Ground floor ring (32A) lounge 1 lounge 2 hall WC sockets One external socket at front of house. 2. Kitchen ring (32A) all kitchen sockets including oven. One external socket at rear of house. 3. First floor (32A) Bed 1 Bed 2 Bed 3 Bed 4 (extension) Bathroom first floor landing home office (light load) 4. Loft ring (32A or radial) Bed 5 loft office (light load) Loft bathroom sockets 5. Outhouse radial (20–32A SWA) 36 sqm outhouse One external socket. 6. Basement sockets (20–32A) 2 rooms, currently damp. To be waterproofed within the next 10 years. Most critical infrastructure here. Eg router 🔥 HIGH LOAD / INFRASTRUCTURE CIRCUITS 7. Cooker (32–45A radial) 8. Heat pump (dedicated radial) 9. EV charger (40A dedicated) 10. MVHR (small dedicated supply / FCU) 11. PV inverter AC circuit grid-tied feed into CU protected by dedicated MCB/RCBO 12. Battery storage system feed 13. Fire Alarm (6A Radial) 14. Security PIR (6A radial) 💡 LIGHTING CIRCUITS 15. Basement lighting (6A) 16. Basement Emergency light at consumer unit (6A) 17. Ground floor lighting (6A) 18. First floor lighting (6A) 19. Loft lighting (6A) 20. External lighting front and back (6A) Is any of the above insufficient or overkill? Thanks in advance P

2021 wasn't last century 😂. For what it costs i just want to run gas in. I wish there were more gas ashp hybrid units. Ashp wont save me any more theyre almost identical in running costs I've been going over it for years and nothings changed. Its a total nightmare i hate heat pumps and battery and solar before I've even lived in the house. Tempted to sell it at the end and stay in an old house with gas combi and not have to monitor how much water i use and pausing heating because its 4pm to 7pm peak rate. I'm just going round in circles with it and over the 4 years I've been told heat pumps are the future and the prices will come down, they've just increased by 15% I'll likely have to fit an ashp to handle the low peoperty heat loss and minimise short cycling better than gas but i really dont want one. It just means the battery situation becomes twice as expensive so not woerh it for me. I've put 4.8kw of South facing solar on, thats the most i can put on the roof. Battery adds 2 grand, or 3 grand if i add the gateway for off grid back up. Due to my low usage I'd save £220 a yr using octopus cosy, thats not a big enough saving for a decent roi. Cant get on anything cheaper than cosy without an EV which i wont be buying. EV is the only way to make a battery roi by unlocking super off peak rates. The idea of having weather compensated heating is to let it run 24/7 and have a nice steady comfortable house, but energy prices on tou tariffs just goes against it all and makes us run sumilar to on off if we're having to use set backs in the peak slots. If electric cost 4p per kwh, we'd just run it as we please. My price was for a 9.4kwh battery which is enough for my house, but add an ashp, then i need twice as much battery, so twice as much outlay, which still doesnt help the roi. Cycling a smaller 9.4kwh multiple times ler day just halfs its life span If you have an EV and can stick 10kw+ of panels on the roof and install a battery yourself then its all good. Solar doesnt help a heat pump when you need it in winter. In summer you only need to heat dhw. Solar diverts a waste of money if you can export for 12 to 16p per kwh, its better to heat dhw quicker and more efficiently with the ashp in summer. I'd need a scop of 4.15 to equal my 90% efficient gas price vs 25p standard electric cost. Cosy off peak 14.5p Ashp is average scop 4, so its 400% efficient, but Gas heats is 4x cheaper and heats dhw 3x faster at any outdoor temperature and due to the cost, you can just set water constant 24 hrs a day and not worry about tou cheap slots. We like 10 minute showers, 3 of them and the tanks nearly empty. Engineers charge £100 more for a heat pump service vs gas which wipes out the annual savings. Will an outdoor heat pump exposed to the elements last as long as an indoor gas boiler? Same brand boilers 12 yr warranty vs heat pumps 7yrs. The manufactures cant have faith in the product. The only reason I'll end up installing an ashp, is if it will run a low heat loss property better than a viessmann 200 11kw boiler at its lowest modulation of circa 2kw. But most heat pumps ive seen are 2.1kw min output too.

@saveasteading I'm on the old 2022 regs so i can choose gas or electric heating, solar is a choice and overheating hasnt came in by then. The yellow duct has been in place for over a year, it just comes up from 600mm below to up against the wall. Its £290 to get connected.

This is a very clever, though now I think about it, very obvious advantage of luminaires. I got pissed off with the last luminaire because it was bloody expensive and when a part inside it failed, even though it was a Siteco branded part with a clear part number, Siteco wouldn't sell me one individually. So thought lightbulbs were better. But now I'm regretting the lightbulbs.

I've got some Collingwood GL040s ready to install but, as my new electrical installation won't be operational until later in the year I can only recommend them by the reputation of the company, not experience. They're not cheap but have a long theoretical lifespan. They're also not dimmable, but the output can be set at 300 or 530 lumens depending on the driver chosen. As @joth hints, choose where you put them carefully and use them to achieve a particular effect. In my case I cast tubes into the screed to hold them, so no problems with floor boards.

Thank you. So busy trying to get the new pad ready for habitation that I am struggling to find time to research the things needed for sign off.

We used some uplighters from phos https://www.phos.co.uk/products/uplights Excellent build wouldn't hesitate recommending them as a manufacturer, if you're happy with the price, but honestly not sure I'd bother with uplighters indoors if doing it again. Tricky to install, have caused numerous maintenance issues (floor boards settling skewing them, doors settling catching on them, bare feet snag on them), and the actual lighting effect is often missed other than the occasional blinding of eyes when walking over them

It won’t be this, don’t think I’ve ever seen a light fitting with lamp holders wired in series. As you say, take one out and the rest don’t work.

A load of those lumens from the GLS bulb will be going in directions that are not useful to you. The led fitting you had before probably had the full 3000 pointed in the right direction

Good point. How do I work that out? I guess if it’s running in series, unscrewing one will cause the other to switch off. Have I remembered my GCSE physics correctly?

Did I not do a sketch for you and post it last December?

If you post up the reasons for refusal it may help.

Is it possible the fitting has the two bulb sockets wired in series? ie, it used 2 bulbs rated at 40W but ran them much below that? An LED bulb running at half it's rated voltage will be extremely dim.

Got rid of a somewhat sophisticated LED luminaire and replaced it with a light fitting that takes two E27 bulbs. The light is rated for a maximum wattage of 2 x 40W, which with modern LED tech should be plenty to replicate the 3000 lumens we had from the old LED luminaire. So I bought two of these bulbs: https://www.screwfix.com/p/sylvania-toledo-platinum-e27-gls-led-light-bulb-1535lm-7-3w/959vn which at 1535 lumens each, should give us plenty of light. Wired in the new ceiling lamp screwed the two E27 lights in, switch it on and it is a very dim yellow light indeed. This is 3m above a utility room and it the light is just not very utilitarian. I originally thought the reason the light was so pants was that the diffuser that comes with the light fitting is far too thick, it's slightly frosted and has a cheap and slightly aquamarine blue tinge to it. The light bulbs are 2700K, the same (I believe, as the luminaire we had before - though maybe it was 3000K). But when I removed the diffuser and ran the light without it, it really wasn't that much better, just a little brighter, but really not much. Are the Sylvania lightbulbs I've purchased from Screwfix really that crap? Looking for brighter lightbulbs that does not exceed the 40W rating per bulb, the only thing reasonably priced I've found is this: https://www.bltdirect.com/high-quality-gls-e27-bulb-2000lm-brightness-14-5w-power-4000k-cool-white-non-dimmable-200-degree-beam-angle-frosted-finish I wouldn't normally never buy a 4000K coloured lightbulb for the home, but this is in a utility room and maybe a bluer light is not a bad thing. Not sure. Any suggestions for which lightbulbs to get to significantly boost the light in this utility room? Don't understand why 3070 lumens from two LED light bulbs is not producing anywhere near as much light as the 3000 lumen LED luminaire we had before???

Yes, I think the current rule of thumb is to keep gas or oil if already in place but use ashp if all new. That may change according to what happens re the Iran situation. But putting in a gas pipe just in case makes some sense. Have you laid the yellow warning tape above it in the trench? If in doubt, bring it through a 110mm pipe bend and close both off with plastic and sticky tape.

Well I’ve spent £4k on him already so don’t want to start from scratch. I’m hoping he will just amend this plan for a reasonable amount.

It’s on appeal now but doesn’t look hopeful so trying to get ahead with a redesign.

Or lower your expectations?

Or change your designer?

That's a big compromise from what you want. Have you considered appealing the refusal?

My planning has been knocked back for the second time due basically to size. I'm now falling back on a 3 floor design that my designer originally suggested but i rejected. I don't like the dormer at the back so i've ditched the single storey rear kitchen and gone 2 storey. I've also ditched the garage and brought the left side down to one storey to give an extra downstairs room. (this was the main planning issue, to imposing) I've attached my designers early plan and my 'very' rough ideas but wondered if anyone could suggest something better before I ask him to do the same. Also to note a separate issue i can't go any further to the left or right although slight movement back may be allowed. (but not the left single storey). first photo shows rejected plan Thanks everyone.

Sorry not answering your question - but more or an observation. Why are you installing gas on a new build? Install a heat pump and save your self a fortune in running costs. Add a battery/PV and save more. Our new build was completed in 2021, with gas boiler. After a year or so fully optimising how it it ran, I added an ASHP specifically for cooling the floor. Operated a hybrid system. Realised, with standby charge for gas and the great cop from a heat pump, the boiler had to go. Since added more PV and battery and pay almost nothing for energy even in NE Scotland. Gas it last century.

I've laid my 63mm underground yellow gas duct for a new build and i have it coming from horixontal underground with a sweeping bend up vertically to the hole under the built in external meter box. The electric one has a red and white hockey stick to complete the transition between duct and meter box, but i cant see anything online for the same with gas. Looking at completed wall boxes on neighbour’s houses they just have a white plastic conduit coming out the bottom of the gas meter box into the ground. Does the gas company provide this? Is there a coupling for the 63mm to stick? Hoping to not have to dig down through comlacted type 1 to add a plast sweeping bend when the yellow duct already does this with the draw cord in.

@hauntedicecreamvan Which door did you go with? I'm currently looking for a fully glazed door.

Thanks that's very useful. Would you do the plastering differently if you were starting it now? I totally get what you mean about getting it 'good enough' so that you can move in but I want to try and avoid doing things twice if possible.