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We do only have one. It's on top of the cupboard that houses the boiler. Where would you recommend I placed another one?

I'm free on the 11th at the moment.

Agree, it's why I started this thread, to check I hadn't misunderstood something. If I open up the lockshields on the cold room rads again, dT will on those rads will drop to 2-3C, overall dT 5-6C. So just wondering if you/anyone has any suggestions for how to find a middle ground, ie, keeping the boiler happy while maximising dT. I don't think I have any way of measuring the flow rate.

Yeh I agree. Unfortunately, they are not bog standard ones and colour matched to the interior so getting replacements that match the rest is not cheap. I've ordered some cheap Chinese fan kits to attach to the small rads to see if that buys me enough output but they won't be here for a while. If I'd known what I know now a few years ago I would have replaced the rads but given I want to move I doubt I'll be here long enough to get any sort of payback on the rads. Or at least, reverting to my previous heating strategy of ignoring the temp in that room seems like a better plan to me. The other rooms are fine and radiators seem adequate. Maybe not enough for low temp at -5 OAT but should be good at 0. Keston System S30 (A rebranded Ideal Logic with extra gubbins to support 50mm flues). Pump is built in Grundfoss UPM3 15-75 (according to the photo in the manual), boiler modulates pump between 70 + 100%.

I've had a couple of quotes for solar + battery + associated hardware and have three options on the table. We're looking at a 5kW array and probably a 10kWh battery. The options are SolarEdge or Libbi from one installer, or GivEnergy from another. The main difference that I can see is the first installer is offering a 3kW or 5kW inverter whereas the GivEnergy is 8kW. We have a small EV but we'll likely get a bigger one when all the work is done, so I'm leaning towards the GivEnergy. We're also expecting to put in a 10-12kW heat pump as part of our renovation and a >200l UVC. We're on Intelligent Octopus Go at the moment with a SyncEnergy 7kW charger, which I'd rather not replace but would do if it meant managing the whole system was easier. I'm not really sure how I'm meant to choose between these three options. Are there any obvious good or bad choices here? Ideally I'd like a system that can manage import/export, dump excess solar into EV/DHW and be as future proof as possible.

Looks to me like the only way to widen the DT at the boiler and the rads is increase the size of the rads What boiler is it and what pump (If not in the boiler)

Your home is losing heat at OAT 5C - if you need flow temps of 60 deg C to maintain it at target temp then you don't really have a choice Well you do - have a colder house and get condensing efficiency - great or probably not 🙂 Boiler flow rate is really bloody crucial - read the installation manual it should tell you what it's min flow rate needs to be for it to be happy Screwing the flow rate down thro the rads and ending up with a really unhappy boiler isn't a great way to minimise energy usage MWT in the rads is where you need to look Hypothetical Example Rad Flow 60 Return 50 Mean water temp 55 but this is achieved at a flow rate of 104 l/hr and the heat output is 1214W Same rad Flow 62,5 Return 52.5 Mean Water temp still 55 but flow rate would be 114 l/hr Multiply that round all the rads and you quickly add all the increases of flow to make the boiler happier - it stops doing the overheat short cycle and just does equal burns every cycle

It's looking like I can't maintain room temp at OAT 5C unless I allow flow temps >60C. With a DT of 5 that means operation will be entirely non-condensing, unless i've misunderstood something. As I understand it, if I can get my flow temps below 50C then DT doesn't matter anywhere near as much.

Why do you want a high DT?

Yeh, that matches my thoughts. Any suggestions for the best strategy to achieve this while maintaining as high a DT as possible?

One part of government not co-ordinating with another (planning). So the upgrades were planned then got slammed into planning issues. Supposedly a lot of new build and upgrades to the network will happen over the next 5 years. Paid for out of bills of course, but if it stops curtailment and the associated cost the impact will be more limited.

My advice is simple Keeping the boiler happy with a decent flow rate thro it is far more important than squeezing the DT out of individual rads to drop the return temp Squeeze too much out of the rads and you drop the flow rate thro the boiler Drop the flow rate thro the boiler and it'll go out on temperature much faster Every time the boiler fires you'll send a load of energy out the flue before it modulates down this is a bigger waste than running with a narrower delta at the boiler with a good flow rate

Sorry for the highjack! Ha! you should have seen mine. A mess of choc blocks with loose screws and exposed single insulated cables (thanks Mr Installer!) The universal plate should be compatible with the Wiser so you should just be able to slot it on (using existing wiring). To add opentherm cabling yes you can cut out a section of the mounting plate for the wire. Assuming the wire is thick enough then the installed unit should clamp down on it. The thermostat has a little plastic bracket with it. I liked Camerons idea (in the video I linked) of buying a normal blank plate to go in place of your existing thermostat (assuming its wired remote from your controller) and attach the plastic bracket to that. Having said that I've moved my thermostat to a location closer to the place I want to control the temperature. As an update to my progress, I'm realising that my CH system has been badly designed and have very little hope of achieve low temperature efficient operation without spending a lot more money. My existing radiators can't dissapate enough heat to heat the room at low temp or avoid cycling with the minimum modulation of my boiler. It's likely Wiser could be doing some things differently to cope a little better with this situation but most of the issue is with my CH system. The wiser does a fantastic job of maintaining a very stable temperature (within 0.2C) assuming the CH system has sufficient capacity. (In my case during the day, but it starts losing control as the temps drop at night unless I bump the flow temp up outside condensing range).

As you may have seen from other threads, I recently got a Wiser heating controller and have been spending time looking at my heating system. I've known there have been problems with it for a long time and had basically been ignoring them by only limited a subset of my rooms and not worrying about the rest. Now I have the controller, I have some tools to monitor function an also wanted to attempt again to heat my whole flat, with the hope that I can optimise things and the overall cost won't be hugely worse than existing. Very quickly, I've realised I needed to balance the radiators. I've done a couple of rounds of balancing. First round, I dealt with the radiators that were heating first and obviously stealing flow from the other 4 (which are located in my higher heat loss rooms that I've not been actively heating). At this stage, I'd left the 4 wide open (in hindsight not ideal). This made a difference in the speed of getting to temperature (2-3 hours, not 10) but the overall dT was still about 6C which is not great. Chart below from roughly steady state once to temp (I know the temps are fairly high, that's another thread that I will write at some point*). Today I did another round of balancing, I've now restricted the flow on all the radiators now and have managed to widen the dT to nearer 9C and had planned to go back tomorrow and tweak some more. I have some concerns though. Firstly, the locksheilds on most rads are now barely open and I'm concerned about minimum flows and noise in the pipework (noise so far is minimal but I'm clearly very close to more noticable noise). Is this what I should be doing or have I misunderstood something? Secondly, since I've done this I noticed the boiler is now really short cycling (the cycling before at steady state was not great but now it's clearly problematic). My thesis is that before when the boiler cycled the initial burst of heat from the ignition got absorbed by the high flowing water fairly easily, with the more restricted flow caused by additional balancing work this burst of heat during ignition is not being lost in the flow and is causing the temp limit to trip and the boiler to lockout. During the lockout the return temp drops further giving more space for the heat from the next ignition. In theory you could deal with this via the controller but Wiser doesn't appear to have an easy way to do this (there is a hystersis setting in the debug output but no obvious way to change this). Is my thinking right? Is there a way to address this with balancing / doing something different on the physical side? * My system as installed (when the flats were built) is a mess. The radiators in my high heat loss areas appear undersized even when dealing with traditional dT of 50 and obviously totally inadequate for any sort of low temp heating. In the first screenshot here, the state seems steady but in reality the room was slowly losing heat as the OAT dropped and the heat input was capped but the minimum boiler modulation + max flow temp as I had it set. The second graph has a much higher max flow temp, but you can still see the minimum modulation is an issue (even though the property could likely absorb that heat ok).

The thread on gauge does not appear to be standard, 1/8th BSP vent does not fit, I will talk to the suppliers and get a new end cap assembly as the flow head.

Blimey, Ive not even taken mine out the box and i was the one who needed it the most. Center RF Wireless 7-Day 5/2 Day Programmable Room Thermostat White | eBay UK this is my current one that needs to go in the bin 😁 I don't have nice wiring coming out of recessed boxes, i have surface mounted with trunking that goes into the side of the unit (The shame of it), On the 'universal mounting plates' it looks like i can knock the bottom out and feed the wire in from there, Is that right? or have i got to knock up some kind of adapter? Ifound this when on my travels Drayton Wiser Room Thermostat Wall Mount by alias7113 | Download free STL model | Printables.com

You might ask why we have put in place CFDs for the build out of wind that has no route to market? Surely a self-inflicted wound?

Could be wrong but I read it as 15 cells at 3.2v (48v total) making up a total of 314AH - so 15kwh Then 6000 15kwh cycles (actually more likely 13.5kwh) is 81mwh total throughput for the money

Install ESPNow on them and use Home Assistant? Not sure it supports everything, but I thought Tuya stuff was fairly well covered. I don't mind automating things if it makes life easier. But anything that ties you in to internet services (potential monetization by the provider in future if not currently) is a strict no-no for me.

Nothing to report sir

Damn, and I just bought four of them today! The tuya and smart life ecosystem is pretty good for device range to be fair... Software is a bit buggy and Chinesey though.

Any post tanking update?

Agree with your comments. This cable, as the name suggests, is for an EV charger of less than 20 metres, for voltage drop reasons. It was designed so that an EV charger only needs one entry point for data and power.

SmartLife is an app designed for the control and management of smart devices. How the industry has the temerity to brand itself 'smart' ... Just a quick look at Reddit and other forums show the one thing the IoT is not - is smart. The sector is where video recording was 25 years ago - on our knees swearing at the teeny-weeny display, and failing to record our favourite program. I've just thrown 3 SMART plugs in the bin. FeckUmAll. Every fukkinoneovem.