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I hear you but in my experience the pump valves have normally been in a heck of a lot longer than the current pump and are normally badgered Time before last when I replaced a pump the valves were badgered and I did it with the acceptance of some water leakage The next time I replace the pump I did pump and valves with a partial drain down - when that pump failed the valves held with the next pump replacement Caveat - I've been in this house since 1991 so it not like I've burnt thro pumps

If it helps, the SVP can be reduced to 3” after the last WC is picked up. It’s only carrying air at that stage so capacity is no longer a factor. You can still T in a sink / bath / shower etc to the reduced SVP, it’s just solids that aren’t ideal at the smaller diameter. You can actually have a single WC feed into 3” pipe, but nobody does it.

Defo.

My view and experience with MVHR is don't expect any cooling from it. Chilling slab is an all day affair - low and slow wins the day. Maybe better, once house is warmer than outside open all the windows, when outside is warmer than inside do the opposite. Keep floor temp cooler than 20 all the time, boost floor cooling if room get over 23. Leave the MVHR to do it thing, no place for home assistant, just set it up at commissioning and leave to run.

Yes, but what exactly is the point in fitting pump isolation valves, if you change them every time you change the pump? May as well just hard plumb the pumps at that stage. Worth seeing if they hold as it's a basement or summat by the look of it, so a few drops of water ain't gonna hurt, but the changeover will be a 30 min job.

@saveasteading - was that a local BM?

I bought a DAB but since hearing what you can do with the head adjustment from @John Carroll if I ever have to replace it I'll go for Wilo Drop in replacement I think I'd do the job properly - drain system down and replace the valves at the same time as the pump but that's because I'd want to give the valves the best chance next time the pump needs replacing

I didn't go to those lengths, but one thing I see on site time and again is builders using leftover roofing batten etc to create boxings/batten off walls etc etc. The stuff is usually soaked through with whatever chemical they use when it's tanalised, if not rainwater. Usually both. People thought I was a bit mad only using kiln dried timber for my internal bits. Yet... over a year later and not one crack or popped screw.

My Zehnder Q350 can be configured to turn on the supply or extract, or both (normal balanced mode). I wonder if I'll get a good cooling result if I use Home Assistant at dusk to switch the MVHR to supply only, chill the slab and also open all the Velux. Then, before dawn close the windows and switch the MVHR to balanced mode with summer bypass. Thoughts?

I purchased all my c24 treated timbers to carry out my build a year before in required it .4x2, 6x2 8x2 and 9x2 Broke all the packs down and stick stripped every row, when build time come it was all around 12-14% and straight as a die. Not had a single bit of movement in the build. Is it practical, not really, is it time consuming yes, then having thousands of pounds of timber stored, was it worth it 100%

What are you building, I'm invested now?! This lovely builder will horrify you. Framing with fresh sawn green lumber! https://riversonghousewright.wordpress.com/about/25-riversong-truss-system-home/ Can you not just get a pallet of timber delivered wrapped like these ones here?

With DPM and PIR over it, any issues will stay subterranean for sure. Full steam ahead!

It's also susceptible to cracking & edge damage if something heavy gets dropped on it. I have seen a couple of negative posts about it in France - impact damage and surface scratching. There's no perfect worktop, but honed dark granites come the closest, though expensive.

I may be wrong in part then. I went to as showroom, saw the product and what I saw was a solid core colour, with a patterned surface, but the routed grooves were solid colour like the core, indicating that the pattern was not throughout. It would seem the core and product is indeed some sort of composite, as you have deceived from tge product literature. But the patter IS only skin deep… in the products I saw certainly.. perhaps not in all… So still a solid grade laminate but not the same as trespa… Although looking at it, you can get Dekton cladding panels… that would be something

Ah ok, that's good. We had plenty ventilation, fans going and woodburner chugging away👍

Appreciate the ideas. Going behind the chimney up dormer sounds like the easiest way to comply - will there be an issue with the number of bends required by this? I won't have any other soil vent pipes, the neighbours definitely do have vent pipes. The AAV is an interesting one and would certainly look a lot better. The other thing I was thinking about was moving the vent pipe internally and going straight up to the right of the first floor toilet.

Hi, and thanks! I had read something about the risk of trapped moisture (between the old DPM below the slab and my new DPM above) potentially causing issues with mould, but decided I was over thinking it and as my leveling stuff passed the old polythene sheet taped to the floor test, I've gone ahead and done the floating floor.. almost finished it today, a productive was to spend a rainy Sunday😊

Works well except in very damp environment when there is no cause of evaporation.

I did this in a BM once and the yard man complained we were taking the good stuff and leaving the rubbish. We've had masses of 10 x 2 delivered and it is beautifully dry. It will have been wrapped from Finland to the BM then straight to us.

Hi Nick, yes I've levelled the original screeded slab. Since I posted the above, I decided the RonaScreed FastDry stuff had done it's job and went ahead with the floating floor, so there's no going back now! The original slab seemed bone dry, though my gut feeling was to not trust the old thin DPM below. I used a mix as dry as I could get away with for levelling the worst low areas and SBR to bond it. Technically, adding the RonaScreed, it should have been dry enough in 4 days to take 'moisture sensitive floor coverings' so all should be ok. I was just curious about what others thought of the old 'plastic sheet taped to the floor' test. Thanks for the reply👍

There won't be any free water in this by now unless it's getting wet from rain or other source. Even if there was some dampness it won't get through the dpm and insulation.

A lot better. Eh? What makes you think this? It's what they call "sintered stone" I think, basically a mad made stone created with immense temperature and pressure. It's very like pocelain, but better. It's practically impervious to any scratching, solvents, staining etc - unlike the resin composite worktops. The downside is it has to be cut, machined etc by specialists.

Not the kind of thing you want falling off

Agreed. Would go for twice the recommendation for a rail, and around 20-40% more for the point fixing

Also didn’t help that the French chap who supported, pissed of back to the land of the baguette with the female connectors……after showing me and saying to keep them safe…..after supposedly leaving them for me to do the final hookup. lol.