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not in chat. Just asked it. You just get warnings of "near limit". So you "do something" and hope you have credit left. Anyway Pro gives me "thinking" back and of course everything is so much easier now!

Ok, thanks. Do you surround the whole pipe in concrete?

What is missing from this conversation is WHY it is there. It is one of the many safety features of an unvented cylinder, to ensure it cannot boil. So each heat source feeding the cylinder must have a fail safe cut off. There is a theoretical fault possibility in that many heat pumps have a built in electric resistance heater for backup or boost reasons and if the controls operating that stuck on, then the cylinder could continue heating until it boiled. So the valve we are talking about will shut down that flow from the heat pump if the heat cylinder is getting too hot. It is okay to use your diverter valve, or a separate valve for that, as long as the valve is normally closed, i.e. no power to the valve and it is shut. If using your diverter valve for this function then it is wired as normal, but with the addition that the L feed to the valve also passes through the normally closed contact on the cylinder thermostat that will have been supplied with the cylinder. This will open if the cylinder is getting too hot regardless of what any other controls might be telling the valve to do. I hope that makes sense, as up to this point I have not seen mention of the cylinder thermostat.

Seriously? I think OpenAI are pretty out of order. Do you not have access to a screen like this? I've not done much except for a couple of basic chats today, but I'm actually very surprised I've only used 9% this week - not done much coding though tbh.

There are debates going round and round in circles in the heat pump installers forums that I'm on about this. Some still seem to think you need it, but basically you haven't got a heat source that's ever going to get close to problematic temperatures, so it's simply not required. I have a shelf full of unused 2-ports as they come with every cylinder I buy and never get used. If you're worried, you can take your switched live from the controller to 3-port through the cylinder thermal cut-out, but really not necessary - just check the three port model specific wiring diagram as some will have permanent and switched live, some will just have a switched live, for example.

Yes

Win win then. Great stuff.

I am a User Researcher working on behalf of Cogworx in conjunction with several local councils across England to improve how people apply for planning permission online. This work is part of the Open Digital Planning community, which brings councils, practitioners, and residents together to design better, more consistent digital planning services. You can find out more about this work at https://opendigitalplanning.org. We’re recruiting participants for our next round of user research, which will take place on Mon 22nd and Tues 23rd June. The sessions will be online and last up to one hour. If you agree, you will only need to attend one of the sessions - I will DM you to arrange the most suitable time and date For this round of research, we’re particularly interested in hearing from everyday householders who have applied for planning permission in the last 12 months. Before the session, you may be asked to complete a small amount of pre-reading, which will take no more than 15 minutes. During the session itself, you’ll be guided through a set of tasks. The session is a test of our design work, not a test of you. We’re looking for honest feedback to help us make the digital service easier and more effective to use. To thank you for your time, a voucher will be provided after the session. If you’re interested in taking part, please respond to this post and we’ll send you a short form to fill in and then we can take it from there. If we can’t fit you in this time we will reach out to you again in the future.

We are, but I think I can bend it back around to my house build again 😂 It's also worth checking whether the person has actually asked a question first. In the case of most posts on here that is true, but blogs are a bit different I think. I did ask a question in my first post and the answers were very helpful. As a result of the advice I was given I have now agreed the purchase of the whole (2 house) plot, with the goal of building just the one house on it. I'm really excited about that idea and to be honest I might have just offered for the one plot otherwise, with a whole heap of compromise thrown in for good measure.

... a wee bit more than £60, that.

You?

This is exactly my set up. The extra valve is only on the DHW return to act as a safety cutout. Is it enough to have the diverter only?

You'll be underinsured, no insurer will accept a 1M+ property can be rebuilt for anything close to 400K If there's a claim in the future, say 100K corrective work, you won't get anything like that much paid out. Instead you'll get a proportion, relative to their own assessment of realistic reinstatement cost (close to your own market valuation). So probably around 400K/1.2M as a percentage, meaning they'll pay out maybe 30K of your 100K bill for collective work and you'll be left with the rest. Same applies to any future buyer, their and any mortgage solicitors will flag the warranty isn't worth much. It's probably cheaper to get realistic warranty cover now than retrospectively, but your call if you want to take on the informed risk

Gave up! Paid 90 for the month. Its unusable as it is - couldnt do the simplest of tasks after multiple evidence etc.. Didnt realise there was a 90 month option!. So thats something. Now after an hour of old chat basically achieving nothing I'm expecting pro to fix this very quickly.

And sometimes I don't even read the site for a day or so. Other times I'm sitting at an airport, bored and maybe write too much. Excuse me in advance please. And look, we are wandering off-topic.

Who is ' you' ? You? The organisation deciding how much to pay? A Buildhubber ? Your friends? Motivation matters.

I can't see any good reason to put ufh under a shower and several against. Trap drying out adds to the list and is a good point.

There’s a lot of truth in what you’re saying, especially around the importance of actually listening properly to clients and not just pushing a preconceived solution. Where it gets tricky in practice is that “just deliver what the client asks for” only works up to a point. Clients often describe what they think they want, not necessarily what will work best in terms of buildability, cost, performance, or long-term maintenance. So there’s always a bit of translation work involved, otherwise you end up building something that technically matches the brief but creates problems later. On the self-build / contractor side of things, the reality is somewhere between the extremes. Yes, you can absolutely save money and get better control by being heavily involved, but it comes with a significant time and stress commitment. Disputes on site aren’t theoretical — they happen, and how they’re handled can have a real impact on cost and schedule. The passive house / high-performance build angle just amplifies that, because tolerances are tighter and workmanship matters more. You’re not just building “a house”, you’re building a system that depends on execution quality at every stage. That’s where good communication and the right team matter as much as design intent.

If you are getting mould its really a ventilation issue that needs to be resolved. You will get two camps of answers here, but I didn't and would bother with UFH under shower or a bath

im about to run my wet underfloor in the bathroom. I was going to run it under the resin shower tray because why not, might dry it out, help with mold etc. But then its dawned on me that it might dry out the trap which is obviously no good. My trap is as low a water seal as they come, 25mm. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with the traps drying out due to UFH? Could easily not run it near the shower tray but it seems it would have its benefits. Obviously not at the expense of the bathroom stinking 2 hours after a shower.

Why would you be doing an S plan with a heat pump? That isn't the way to do heat pump plumbing, maybe ok for a boiler, but still wouldn't go that route. You should be using a diverter valve, which is your positive energy cutout. Primary pipe from heat pump, to diverter valve, normally open route to CH and the normally closed to the cylinder. The diverter is controlled via ASHP controller on a demand for cylinder heating. ASHP ramps flow temp up for cylinder heating. Your ASHP is equipped with the safety features to only need that.

That's not it though. There's a recognised 'thing' that happens on the internet where people take one little thing from your post and zoom in on it and blow it out of all proportion. It isn't done to help or advise, it tends to be more about point scoring or showing off. This leads to people feeling the need to endlessly caveat absolutely every possible wee crack that the keyboard warriors might slip in through before they can ask a question. Now I know that people on here are incredibly helpful and genuinely knowledgeable and consequently that point scoring, willy waving or showing off aren't part of the mentality here, but we do all need to be careful and question our motivation before we comment.

Live is fed to the immersion heater via the thermal cut out. This is where the valve can pick up it's power (?) is my guess.

After crippling codex now OpenAi restrict 5.5 "thinking" mode. I hate the AI companies doing this. There's no way in chat to know how much 'credit' you have and usage. So it's like paying for netflix and then being told you've watched too many premium films and you can't watch anymore until next window reset. Also chat+ is 20 a month or next tier 200!!!. That's dumb quite frankly. There's clearly a middle ground there!. Chat not very talkative today - miserable (expletive deleted)er. Now it's unsuable again.... thick as (expletive deleted)!

Booster heater and thermistor installed. It's just the cut off valve for the over temp that needs attention. I think I need to connect the valve to the tank thermal cut out - with the BROWN wire connected in position 2 and GREY/BLUE/GREEN wired up to live. Unsure on the ORANGE wire.