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A fair point except the climate example misses the fundamental difference between climate and weather. In this case I'm showing that renewables are cheap. The rise in electricity prices track the rise and fall of gas prices not the rise and rise of renewables. Renewables have steadily risen in last decade But electricity has tracked gas prices. The fact electricity is more expensive now is despite our increace in renewables not because of.

I’d jimmy the bottom 600 mm of batten to get a gap, lap it up and tape it, then use screws to pinch the battens back into place. Taping around the battens is a bit crap (imo) so I’d go the extra mile as the vapour barrier is very important in such a dwelling.

I’d tee in as high up as you can, and actively avoid dropping down with a waste pipe, as you’ll get slurps and traps being sucked dry, so will need air admittance valves if you do that.

And a £100/day labourer? My 2nd hand mixer is disappointing, esp in taking at least 20 mins to clean. So it is pointless for a small mix. The back of it somehow gathers 10mm of sand and cement so messes with the mix as well. But for quantity it's OK as long as someone else is doing the hard work.

Thanks for the replies. Much appreciated. We are considering adding holes in more symmetrical positions, then closing up the old ones, if someone like a magicman can make it look ok. Would the tray run along the top of the door opening?

Nope, it's about 60% dearer than the readymix lorry. The cheapest way to get concrete is from the mixer truck..

Having used pumped insulation in the house attic and mineral wool batts in the garage I would happily say it's one of the best things I have done with the house. No itchy and scratchy show. I think @Gone West priced supafil when doing your house. Any idea of the cost installed? If you could find a machine to blow this behind a clear membrane you would have a cheap solution.

Why are they trying to reinvent the wheel. Cement mixer and barrow is fine. Can't see anyone using it for a form pour

I can imagine how gutting it was but still going to laugh at your misfortune. So accepting I need to take a whole pile of slates off would you look to go into the stack behind the slates or drop down to near ground level behind the lead and break in there? Less hight for dropping hole saws and easier access for what I imagine is a tricky join. If its a boss with a strap I'm going to be digging holes in the wall to get behind the pipe as it looks like it was rendered after the pipe was fitted so partially set into the wall. The advice is much appreciated even if I dont like whats involved haha

I never use premixed bags because of cost and the likelihood that I want a different mix. But that may be false economy when I have to dispose of winded cement. But I assume that premixed bags would come cheap in quantity. I agree though that allowing for any mix would be much better, and should be included considering the high cost. Looking again at the picture, it isn't complicated and I'd settle for a slight delay between in and out. Maybe we will see this as an improved lidl or b &q version soon.

On most walls there’s enough space to lap up underneath by about 7cm without removing battens. But presumably would still need taping regardless so not sure if there’s any advantage to that.

Yes prefabbed. Came like that with vertical battens

Odd that it wasn’t taped up before the battens went on. Were the upper walls pre-fabbed?

Why can't you dab tapered edge boards? I've done it before when only ones available. How much is a sheet of 25 bet its half the cost of 100? Will you go battens between pir or on top?

It only seems to add water to bagged mix. If it could properly mix the dry ingredients (gravel, sand, cement, admix etc.) it would be worthwhile, so you could make concrete, screed, render, mortar etc.

Just working out best way to tape this junction. The vcl is lapped around the cassette from bottom floor to top. Should I trim and lap under the ybs and then tape or just tape direct to the ybs as it is… seems like there’s no gain in folding and extra work. any thoughts? Thanks

Thanks for the sympathy guys…

Does this have a FIT agreement on it?

You could say that!!!

Seen US youtubers use it a lot over the last few years. Seems like a good option for some use cases but only if what your doing is suitable for using the premixed bags.

This is equivalent to posting a picture of an unseasonably low temperature forecast for a particular summer's day and saying "bUt cLImatE ChaNgE is waRmInG thE pLaNet!!...".

Is the wall to the left (the original, shorter wall) retaining anything? Are both rear gardens at the same level? The block-work looks ok but obvs the cracked few blocks would need replacing as I bet you could just push those off. My 2 cents is to demo the lot and put a nice shed there, which will have thinner walls so you’ll gain more space. Drainage? You don’t need any as it’s outside, literally, so the rain will just go wherever it wants to. If you put a shed there you just leave a gap between the shed and the walls so rain and runoff from the rear retaining wall just go straight to ground.

This came to me on facebook.Your own tiny concrete mixer. Pour in the ingredients and chute out a mix continuously. I have looked at this ad and video but can't guarantee it's safe. https://mudmixer.co.uk/ It would be a handy tool- hire bit of kit.

You’ll be biting that bullet, but you already secretly knew that . No real reason to change the stack unless it’s in a bad way, and you can cut into these with a decent Starrett hole saw without issue. Just keep the chuck tight as you don’t want to finish drilling the hole and then watch the hole saw fall into the stack, and then listen to it go ‘clunk’ as it hits the bottom clay bend and shatters it. Ask me how I know…..

We included everything up to the date we submitted the claim which was 2 months after the BC sign off and HMRC payed on all that we claimed. Don’t know about the hob but I’m sure someone else will be able to comment on that.