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Thanks for your reply. Yes now cooling incoming air! 0% Bypass Auto setting Outdoor air temperature 27.5C Supply Air 26.5C Extract air 26.5 C Almost identical to yours. So apperars to be working as it should, I was just surprised to see a small degree of warming overnight. House while warm is not yet oppresive.

Good point Actually, that's probably working as expected as 20° is the 'normal' supply air temperature in 'fixed mode', and the Q series has an adaptive bypass (it can be partly open, not just on or off) However there are a couple of ways you can change that in the advanced settings - see this user manual extract :

Thanks that’s really interesting. I’ll take a look.

Thanks. Building is 15x10m with upstarts in roof space so total floor area approx 300m2 so not massive. That’s really interesting to know what you’re using in Scotland.

The 2 sensors are about 500mm apart in the unit so it can't be house fabric. Here is my present readings and not on bypass.

That would be my guess (plus a little picked up within the unit itself). Varying the time the air spends in the ducts by changing the fan speed might test that - slightly warmer air on a slow fan and slightly cooler on boost? I can't try it on my Zehnder CA225 as I don't have a temperature readout.

My pleasure Nick. The HeatXchange Ltd. Email: sales@theheatxchange.co.uk Plug, coding (VAI0020266328) = £8.16 inc VAT £7.80 Delivery This is for my 5kW vaillant by the way. Part number may or may not be universal but they stock loads of variants. keith

No, it doesn’t get left plugged! What would be the situation at each basin / sink / shower / bath? This is what the water in the throat of the trap does, so you need to chill out sir! If you’re considering bunding a room to accept 300L of flood water, forget it. Typical leaks are slow, progressive ones which often go unnoticed for days / weeks / months or even years.

I'm still deciding which hand to use in France...

https://amzn.eu/d/01CXoCm6 How about this one

Yes, they start at 2m (or whatever) and count down.

Nope, that’s a Right handed tape, L/H tapes are graduated right to left.

And a fire extinguisher in case the water catches fire as it leaks out? That’s a new level of belt & braces lol

@Simon, beat me to it with the cylinder comments. For context on heat demand, NE Scotland total are 234m², with bed and living space at 192m² @-9 3.5kW. Not Passivhaus. So unless you are huge your heat loss calcs are way off.

By the looks of that, you really do need to find yourself someone else to do the work. You don't add DHW cylinder demand to a system with a heat pump as it's priority hot water - the heat pump switches from doing heating to doing hot water, so even if your house needed 8kW for heating, which I seriously doubt, this would be fine for your hot water. How big are your kitchen/dining, living & upstairs bed? They must be massive. You can go and use my tool at https://openheatloss.com to create your own heat loss and system design. This is supported by a number of videos at https://youtube.com/@OpenHeatLoss taking you through how to use the tool and what to input - the video library is developing day-to-day

I have the Q450 the sensors are all in the unit, 1 each side of the heat exchanger on both supply and extract. Mine is the same 100% bypass, I can't connect to mine to show the figures but was the same as yours earlier. I think it's probably the fan warming the air. The bypass takes it over the top of the heat exchanger to miss it. I think if you look this afternoon it goes into reverse and closes the bypass when outside is warmer than the house.

They get your battery API, and control the export from it. Suppose it makes zero difference if it's energy direct from battery or PV. But you have to have a compatible battery to play and a smart meter

Next time you try to log in you will have go in via an email link. That link stays valid a few days only, repeat

They have API integration to inverters. On those with full integration I'd guess they have full reporting from the inverters. But they also support less integration and I think they can still support those because when signing up you give them permission to access the 30min readings from your smart meter. So they can see how much you export within those high reward periods (and this acts as verification for the API integrated case).

Good point, but I doubt it. It is not new generation as such, just recycling excess. Do they say how much power, and energy, they can draw on? Quite a worry that, but they may be using certificates behind the scene.

How do they know it is battery export, do they have some sort of local monitoring? More importantly does that mean that the GAS based generators, and everybody else because of the contracts system, are getting £1+ for every kWh they generate at specific times?

Got to hand it to you. You had me there for a minnit.

Well, I’m signed up and have my £25 bonus. Strange that there is no password to log in to ‘my account’ I guess yours is the same @JohnMo?

That is a good point I had not considered. If the main pipework is in the loft, which may be 40°C or more, then, even with insulated ductwork, it can easily heat up.

Personally I'd worry at least as much about leaks around the rest of the home. Drain with a waterless trap sounds good here but there are smart leak detectors and remote shut off valves that are probably a better fit in most cases