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Did read. So your calculations are still wrong. It still uses almost the same quantity of fuel for 1 person or a few hundred. I've been on business only flights from Singapore to Houston and there were 12 fare paying passengers - so the maths don't make much sense. My car car does 20 mpg, but with 5 people in it, does it all of a sudden do 100mpg. No it still does 20mpg. Strange way to say I like long haul flights and here is my justification. Aircraft use a shit load of fuel, putting the emissions where they do the least good. I have done way more than my fair share of trips around the world, doesn't make good or sensible anymore.

We have a Monarch midi system, which 3 years in... Just works well! Id recommend it

Same here, but I’ve added utility sink too just because rising main is under there and I couldn’t think of a compelling reason to soften the utility cold.

Based on consumption per revenue passenger kilometre. Read the Wikipedia article.

You have so many priorities you are that you are confusing yourself you are not going to get the best soundproof wall and build it cheaply. if you want speed then by pre fabricated cardboard panels that are used in offices, will they be sturdy and robust ? nope not at all. you need to narrow down your priorities. you say you would like to build these, then what are your skills, block laying or carpentry. all my internal walls are 90mm studwork with 11mm osb both sides and 15mm plasterboard on top. rather unusual but it does what I want.

No, you don't really want these connected directly to the unit - ideally just at the lowest part of the system to ensure drainage if ever needed. Normally there will be a length of pipe off the heat pump, AF valves and then the full bore lever valves. The AF valves should also not be installed one on top of each other unless they come with the guard. I always order the Inta zero AF valves with the guards as I've always been able to get them cheaper than the valves without the guards, believe it or not. E.g. https://www.bes.co.uk/inta-zero-anti-freeze-valve-28mm-compression-25790/ https://www.bes.co.uk/inta-zero-anti-freeze-valve-28mm-compression-offer-28132/ You can obviously make your 1 1/4 ones work - I'm guessing they're swivel on one side? Are they then 28mm compression on the other or just BSP on both sides? With the 28mm compression, just use these https://www.bes.co.uk/pipe-tube-fittings/pipe-fittings/compression/reducing-set-28-x-22mm-compression-17740/ as Inta Zero, probably the most popular one out there, only come in 28mm as minimum, but Caleffi supply 22mm compression AF valves. Given what you've said I'm actually quite worried about who you've got coming to do the job.... who is actually doing the commissioning and registering the warranty? And have you planned to install the remote control to get the extended 7 years?

Sorry you are very wrong - you forgot that consumption is per person based on being full of passengers. A 747 holds between 182,000 to 240,000 litres, based on your fuel economy that one hell of a lot miles it could do.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_economy_in_aircraft An Airbus 380 on a long haul flight uses 3.27 l/100 km (86.39 British MPG) I went to Australia and back in a 747-400, that does 3.76 l/100km, which is 75 MPG. That is about the same as my car does on an upcountry run, though it does around 10 MPG less locally. The route I took to Sydney was via San Francisco, and the route back was via Kuala Lumpur, a total of 23,458 miles or 37,752 km. That works out at 1,420 litre of fuel. That flight was for work, and was, nearly 25 years ago (where has my life vanished, I booked the flight just after 911 and got it for $400. I also got bumped off the flight, got my $400 back and an upgrade to 1st Class to KL and then Business Class to Heathrow). Since then, I have probably driven 625,000 miles in various cars, the worse on economy was my little Corsa Automatic, it struggled to do 40 MPG (and was a lot worse around London), but all the other have easily done 50 MPG. So about 2270 lt/year, which is 5.6 l/100km. Should have stayed in Australia.

All our internal walls are wooden stud, 3x2 for non structural 4x2 for structural. Lined with plasterboard. 50mm insulation in the 3" and 75mm in 4". Easy to do, all materials readily available. 3x2 with 12.5mm end up 95mm thick. Water resistant plasterboard in wet rooms. Mine are all dry lined, as are most in Scotland, zero issues for me.

Come on; stop beating around the bush and say what you think 😄

Looking for advice on internal partition walls as I'm feeling a bit lost I’m exploring internal partition wall options and I’m a bit overwhelmed. I’m considering things like: Fermacell Gyproc Habito Lightweight aggregate concrete blocks (e.g. Thermal Liteblock) Solid gypsum blocks AAC blocks AAC floor-to-ceiling wall panels Standard concrete blocks Magnesium Oxide panels Cement boards Double Plasterboard: given the cost of boards like Fermacell, you could install 2 standard plasterboards If I go with board-based systems like Fermacell, should I use metal studs or timber studs? I plan to do the installation myself, with help from friends. What I’m looking for (in order of importance): Durability – ideally walls I’ll never need to worry about, something well-built that I can leave for my children. Noise absorption Impact resistance – sturdy walls that can handle everyday wear and even support cabinets if needed. Ease and speed of installation Low complexity – which option minimises the number of steps and processes from start to finished wall? Humidity resistance – ideally walls I don’t need to worry about, even in wet rooms. Most durable finish – some systems are better suited to certain finishes or renders. Which one gives the most robust, long-lasting finish? Wall thickness: some system may allow me to build partition walls 8cm thick Weight – I’ll have concrete floors, but lighter is still better. Cost – saving money is good, but value matters more. If a system is twice as expensive in materials but more durable and twice as fast to install, I’d still go with that. Any advice on the best overall system for my priorities would be really appreciated.

Tried some different local models not good enough still. So got chat to optimise its prompt for codex . Also harness has a marker that chat must fill in such as simple repo scout , deep repo scout , patch failure etc . So that influences the codex prompt . Hopefully to reduce token burn especially on the scout repo , patch , patch fails , repeat loop.

Yes we can get fresh fruit from the other side of the world out of season, we can go ongoing haul holiday's - is any of this good for the environment - no. But sounds like you want to keep your holidays and who cares. Sorry me swooping to ASHP may have a good impact on the environment - but it's super small impact. Insignificant compared to even starting a gas turbine let alone dragging 540 Tonnes of A380 into the sky. The aircraft can do about 80 to 90 miles per US gallon per person. Which any diesel car can do with 2 people in it and double that with 4 people in it.

Nearly there with the basic frame. Just a bit of bracing on the free end pillars then it will be time to price up and order the roof sheeting.

Commercial flying is mass transport and ballpark similar to an ICE car with one person on board in terms of CO2/Km . It's just that someone rarely drives the equivalent distances. You could probably half CO2 of airliners by having a large and much slower turboprop aircraft but the idea of taking 24hrs in an economy seat to get to New York won't make you many friend's among the travelling public.

Hiya. I'm self-building in Harston, so quite close to you. 4-bed ICF house that's kinda-passiv. ASHP, triple glazing, external shading. Integrated garage and aircon too. I spent ages looking at timber frame, but the ICF approach allowed a much cheaper foundation and creates a much stronger, quieter house. We're first fixing at the moment, so a little further on. Happy to talk about our experience so far and recommend one or two people who can help.

Ha! I can see why you might think that but I'm not a carbon zelot. Being able to move things, including people from one side of that globe to the other in under 24h is a huge benefit. We should be minimising flying where possible. Eg, sub 500 mile (to pick an approximate distance) flights should be replaced with rail, business meetings that could be done remotely should be done remotely. But I would rather we saved carbon by moving to EVs and heatpumps and continue flying (albeit maybe at a slightly lower rate) rather than cut flying so we can drive ICE cars and use gas boilers. And we would save *much* more carbon by doing those things (and improve energy security) than by stopping flying all together.

Got the walls repaired, a backer panel fitted and the flusher panel on. Just awaiting the toilet pan tomorrow

Fitted:

Two weeks! What have you been doing man?! 1st, getting the PB and plaster reinstated, and adding a backboard: 2nd, selling a house 😀 Right, next set of Grohe instructions: covers multiple flushers So, I only need a small subsection of the instructions, of which, the twiddling round of the button with the Grohe logo has been carried out Next step is to cut back the plastic white rectangle in the first picture flush to the wall.

All the houses I lived in with water softeners, had septic tanks or sewage treatment plants. We never had any problems.

https://wrekinwatertreatment.co.uk/collections/non-electric-water-softeners https://aquasofsoftenersandsalt.co.uk/products/copy-of-minimax-innova

AF valves are 1 1/4. I think the plumber and supplier have assumed the AF valves connect directly to the 1 1/4 inch connecter on the side of the heatpump. Which may not be the case.

Watch out at doors between rooms. Should have movement/expansion joints there. Each area of screed can shrink towards it's own centre cracking where the meet. Has happened to us.

How binding is an accepted offer in Scotland? Can they back out after you get planning permission like in England?