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Ah. No heat pump, gas boiler. There is a mixer valve on the manifold. I am not actually sure how accurate those things are but in the winter we had it set at 45C, albeit we still had no insulation around the bifolds. Boiler output is at 60C to rads. Floor temperature got up to 26C then. I guess Min on the valve is perhaps equivalent to off ? i.e. cold water feed temperature ? Tweaked it up a fraction, heat gun has pipes at 22C. The concrete slab itself is well dried out, been heated through two winters.

If your a well insulated house, your flow temp isn't going to much higher than about 28 at -lots outside, so zero point going beyond that. We never bothered doing any drying cycling as we didn't have a heat source at the time. Your heat pump is pretty unlikely to fire up, if the floor is already warm. It will or should have a drying programme, so run that and limit max temperature otherwise you'll just melt.

And parking them. Hard to imagine then getting from Land's End International to the Isles of Scilly when the wind is 40MPH.

So my last lot of floor levelling compound was put down 27 days ago and has been left to go off and dry naturally in that time. All be it chunks of the floor have had floor mats and kitchen parts all over them for a couple of weeks of that. Kitchen now sitting on legs awaiting parts. Floor makeup - 120mm concrete slab with heating pipes around midpoint, approx 25mm to 5mm of levelling compound on top in 2 coats, top coat between 15mm and 3mm. Time to run some heat through the slab, but it is June. Unheated the surface of the levelling compound is around 24 today anyway - using my heat gun. (Presumably temp is lower deeper within the slab ?) I have turned down the flow temp to Min - probably about 25C ? ? - and just turned on the underfloor heating. Advice please on how long to run it and how to increment the water temperature over the days to come ? (LVT to be laid in 26 days time)

I love airships but I don't think they are the answer apart from some very niche uses. The biggest issue is the slow speeds mean long cycle times. A 737 can cycle back and forth between London and Rome 4 or 5 times a day, so it's capital and operational costs can be split over many passengers. But the airship might do one leg, maybe a return with fewer people and the capital and operational costs would be similar if not greater than a 737. They do look cool though.

No it isn't - but I would put it lower down the list of priorities than the other two items. Those are bigger bang for your (political capital) buck. If we reduce demand for oil (and gas) from road transport there will be more oil available for things like flying. I'm not in the same camp as "just stop oil" - we will need to extract oil for the foreseeable future for chemicals and things where the intra high energy density is critical (mainly aviation, but also some critical "off grid" applications). I just think we should stop burning oil (gas) if we don't have to. Cars and HPs do need more generation and there are some swapping costs (though less if you just replace with electric at the end of normal life) - but again these are problems we have known "mature" solutions to. They are, in tech nerd speak, technology readiness level 9 "actual system proven in operational environment" Low carbon long haul aviation is TRL 4 at best with short haul at maybe 7 (there are some electric float planes operating in Canada for example) Absent some massive break though in creating hydrocarbons from electricity, water and co2 (which would also solve a whole bunch of other problems) aviation will be tied to fossil fuels for a while yet.

Fingers crossed that the AirLander makes it into production and ultimately zero emissions air travel comes to pass (probably not the easiest way to get to Oz though!) https://www.hybridairvehicles.com/news/overview/news/zeroavia-and-hav-sign-agreement-to-collaborate-on-zero-emission-airlander/

The average, not the worst or best the average. Pretty simple. Look it up, plenty of info out there, but approx 3x worse. in theory, if we generate enough electricity and we don't, and people can afford it. No issue with that, have voted with my own feet and my own money (no grant money taken).Now getting cheaper bill because of it (a lot cheaper). But again we needs lots of electric generation. Scotland way further ahead than the rest of the UK. All I am saying is aviation isn't great. But to keep flying, you may need to open the oil and gas pipe line again - which you are opposed too. You can't have everything.

Perhaps you should try Fable (Mythos for us simples)

Yes and the trouble with Toddlers is they grow up and become very stroppy teenagers. My beef this week has been to get copilot to ignore all the metadata that goes along with the prompt - somehow it thought that this was part of the prompt and kept telling me that my code would not work because you have loads of 'edge' metadata in it. Even though it has now agreed with me to ignore it it keeps telling me its an issue.

You can play all sorts of tunes with the statistics - do you count methane leaks in that gas heating stats? What exactly is the average uk house? How much worse are high altitude emissions? How do you attribute international flights? Etc. But the co2 emissions from flying are several times less than those from gas heating or private vehicles. Even if you 3x them to account for the altitude flying is only equal to one of those other items (in round numbers) We can definitely replace the majority of heating emissions now, today, with proven tech you can literally buy off the shelf. Likewise, we can replace the majority of cars on the road with EV equivalents that are availible today. There would be no major change to lifestyles or functionality. People would still have warm homes and still be able to drive about. (obviously both of those sectors will see a gradual phase out due to the relatively long life cycles of cars and boilers) But there is no currently available way to replicate the functionality of air travel without carbon emissions. Maybe one day there will be (fingers crossed). If there was I would 100% support swapping to that ASAP, in the same way I support EVs and HPs. But until then, I think we should focus on tackling the two sectors that are - much bigger than aviation - much easier - result in minimal disruption to people's lives. Otherwise we will alienate the public even more. The right wing press already bang on about "Greta stealing your holidays" or some such bollocks whenever any free taxes are applied to air travel. Imagine what would happen if we actually tried to ban air travel.

Failing on everything now it said eventually "For today: stop." . I told it to get (expletive deleted)ed and fix it you lazy (expletive deleted). I bet everything I own if I ran this simple patch through codex cloud it goes straight through..... (expletive deleted)ing me right off. So now same prompt but routed through codex cloud. So codex does scout and suggests patch whilst burning tokens. previous local llm does scout and chat suggests patch - where we've been failing today

Intatec do them: https://www.intatec.co.uk/products/k-type-extended-ball-valve-2/ but this is probably special order from your local friendly merchants. However, the standard ball valve just about work with external pipe insulation - I've used them quite a lot.

Oh yes. Today it cant do a simple patch. 8th attempt now! I swear at it and it does say "Yes I am a xxxxx". But like you sometimes it's like a dream and everything goes through. Bearing in mind I look at zero code so I have a very tight framework. Luckily this is all on local llm repo with chat doing (or not) the patches. So very little codex token burn today!

I think it's hilarious. They must be doing something like that to get us to upgrade. I had an argument the other day. 3 times I had to tell it to listen to me, still ignored me. Then full caps exclamation mark - STOP!!!! you are not listening to me! You have completely ignored my instruction to........ Now listen and do what I say...... This was all because it got an equation the wrong way round and carried on trying to write it into the code base! But then this morning I notice a bug - and it produces the diff perfectly and within 5 min I'm back to normal. It was a bit lazy mind as it didn't redraft the whole script instead giving me line number reference so I could stitch it in. Do you often get a response that what you've asked for isn't urgent and can wait? I then say no, it needs to be done and why and then it goes, oh yes, great rationale, now is absolutely the right time for this change before development goes too far as it'll take more effort later and be very complex to resolve the issue! It's like dealing with a toddler!

Walls first for any plant areas afaic. Doing this atm for the MVHR plant room: Rear wall was caulked with intumescent caulk and painted before fitting the units, all A1 fire rated, and the rest is getting caulked and painted ad I go. On this job I had to install the full wet plumbing early so the ASHP & UVC could go in early, so I painted a panel of PB and drilled it, then mounted it and then boarded the rest of the room. Painted it because of OCD and the fact it’s near impossible to paint around these things after the fact. I plastered it the week after and then the full install of the UVC etc went ahead.

My favourite esp for diy. If you make double sole plate and header plates then even vacuum cleaner impact is isolated. It is superior too if having a tv fixed to a wall

Generally all heat pump stuff is 28mm and bigger. If your pipe runs are short 22mm is fine, if they are long 28mm may be better. Valve https://www.unventedcomponentseurope.com/inta-1-female-swivel-x-1-male-heat-pump-extended-lever-ball-valve-hpbv11.html/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy Unvented Components Europe&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=adtribes&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17178278874&gbraid=0AAAAADCTOYDIF7_WqM1JdaR45hjcYe7rN&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlqTRBhCBARIsANrkrxiP5YU1oqx-01ITZliqfzcXOrTDlwcJv1dfpMhdWYFUDscVx6Kw2D0aAtV4EALw_wcB

It's on one today. Ignoring pratically everything. I did read that maybe they 'cripple' current version before next release so we all think it's better!

When installing hot and cold manifolds, is it good practice to install a board on the blockwork first, and if so what? Pipes are mlcp into plant room.

Thanks. It's all oil heating here in Northern Ireland so heat pumps are a bit of a challenge. Once we get inside the house then the plumbing should be the same as any other system so I'm trusting my plumber to do all that wet stuff with his eyes closed. One last question, do you have a link to an extended ball valve 22mm, I think they are all 28. Or maybe I run 28 mm to the end of the ball valves and then reduce down to 22 🤔

BC have shown no interest in my Cat6. I'm expecting to give them an electrical certification from my sparky when all is done- I can't see them second guessing that really. As far as I am aware there is no network certification required for domestic networks. Low voltage cables like Cat6, speaker cable, HDMI etc not supposed to share ducting with high voltage. There are some nice semi-autistic videos of tidy cabling into patch panels and racks on youtube.

Are you aware that you can look at resources like the British Gypsum 'white book' to see a variety of stud wall constructions and their expected sound performance, thickness etc... https://www.british-gypsum.com/specification/white-book-specification-selector/white-book-overview For our extension/refurb we have used Habito on some timber stud walls with 100mm acoustic rockwool infill - and don't forget to soundproof apertures like electrical sockets with acoustic putty pads. You might want to vary choice of construction somewhat depending on the requirements for the rooms in question and other factors. For example we have a wall with a pocket door where we wanted the wall to have decent sound resistance at the pocket and so have it double boarded with Habito then skimmed. Walls for a TV/music room potentially different requirement from other rooms etc. Consider dealing with noise sources at source - e.g. insulated soil pipe or acoustic wraps. For timber stud make sure to get good straight timber. Very best acoustic performance is normally from constructions where the two sides of the wall structure are isolated from each other - staggered stud construction, resilient bar etc. We wanted to also maximise room size on an existing footprint which took us away from staggered stud. We had a small area needing thermal insulation at minimal thickness and used an aerogel MgO board from Proctor - aerogel with a few mm MgO. It does tend to crack if you drill into it.

Wooden stud wall (you state you have carpentery skills). Insulated the gaps (a bit of noise absorption, but importantly limit room to room heat transfer) Double plaster board for noise absorption. Both sides if you want. Relatively quick, cheap, easy with help.

As suspected not all those parts are required for the supplied pan, only the threaded rod. To which we add these parts and these informative instructions (!), which don't match the provided pan and s/c seat! Which, when you work it out end up like this fitted to the pan. Threaded rod with metal bits on: (Muppet forget to take a photo) Pan fitted: