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Some areas worse than others but yes. My feeling is they copied a lot of their workings from other flats that have 1-2m2 windows and applied it to my flat which has those windows replaced with sliding doors that occupy most of the external wall, then on top of that late in the design they changed the sizes of the rooms making one in particular 6+m2 bigger. The change in design for my flat means that they have got some other thermal bridging details wrong. The concrete floor extends without break onto the balcony for example.

A Zinga Gazelle was a car, taking you back to your Rootes.

OK so they really are underspec'd for your heat loss

I was going to do the lot, but the ASHP install plumbers did the ground floor at the same time, then came back to connect and fill the upstairs for another £250. It was a good decision.

Have you thought about how your going to keep a tank full of hot water available during waking hours on a dull day? Paying guests shower in the morning, get p**s wet through during the day then want showers when they get in and a bath for the kids before bed. Be sure to look at DHW and heating from a holidaymakers point of view ie both need to be there when they want them.

Unfortunately, it's all radiators

Are most here doing their own ufh install then? What about manifold connections and pressurising?

Current ones all K1 except one

Are yours K1 or K2?

I am paying nearly £400 in vat for a 16 ton grab lorry. Is there any way to get rid of it cheaper than that. Being winter too, it's bulked out by about 30% as well.

?? There's likely auto air vents on the HP circuit and almost certainly if its a pressurised system??

I had BC out today looking at some other work that's been carried out on my property. Took the opportunity to get him to look at the drainage proposal as above. Basically we are looking to connect the vertical (white) soil pipe with a horizontal one to a branch connection where the current clay pipe goes under the foundation. The bathroom W.C can then connect straight onto the branch as well. A rest bend below the branch can then direct the waste down and out under the foundation. BC suggested using a sleeve under the foundation and back filling with concrete as the easiest way of doing this. Makes things simple enough regarding getting the new plastic outside however I'm not sure how the new horizontal pipe (which will be buried in the new bathroom floor slab) can be made rodable with this set up. Any thoughts?

My decking was installed over twenty years ago and is in great condition. It is exposed to sun and wind (it's about 1m above ground level) and I think this helps. The piers sit onto concrete pillars in the ground (holes drilled with a huge auger). I treat it every few years with Hicksons Decor wax (sadly now ceased production).

If the tundish is very close to the PRV then yes. If it's a few metres away then personally I'd push it into the PRV vent. If the pipe between PRV and tundish is long and warm you've got the chance of any leaking water evaporating so you'll see nothing in the tundish

I think when zinc coated steel is cut, zinc oxide forms. This acts as a protective layer. Only really works on thin sheet edges. Same with a light scratch. Won't work on say the cut end of a galvanised RSJ. Best thing for that is a Zilt stick applied with a porta pack. Most now use so called "cold galv" out of a rattle can. Zinga is very good.

Didn't ask me anything about the components, bit of a tick box exercise really. Structural, electric install certificate, G98 certificate. Would avoid, mine had a melt down after about a year. Plenty of cheap new ones on eBay. Various makes and models. 3.6kW inverter can take huge arrays, if you choose well, some will take double that. Most 3.6kW inverters have 2x MPPTs, below that generally have one.

Not sure the manufacturer but the current ones are along the lines of these: https://www.stelrad.com/radiators/designer-radiators/white-radiators/flat/ £166 for K1 600x800, white £250 for K2 600x800, white If you upgraded to K2 600x1200, white, then £350 Existing are powder coated colour matched. Finding that option adds a lot to the price (looked at various brands all similar) Type 22 800x1200 white Flomasta is £58 from Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-600mm-x-1200mm-6998btu-white-type-22-convector-radiator/612xp#product_additional_details_container

So, it looks like the going rate for a secondhand diverter is around £100, sometimes a little less. I'm getting the impression that the Eddi is maybe the best of the bunch? And the Immersun also good; both can do two sequential loads, yes? The Solic 200 seems to go for a bit less money, but it seems that it's not straightforward to have it share a load with another power source (e.g. an off peak timer) Any others to recommend or avoid? The inverters are a bit more easy to find secondhand, and generally a bit cheaper. Other than making sure it's around 3.6kw, and compliant with current G98 standards, anything to look for? Any brands to avoid like the plague?

This useful thread is a handy reminder of how little ive achieved on this front. (lots achieved elsewhere) The panels are still on a pallet. And i still dont understand enough to design something simple.

Link me up to an example of a similar rad to what you have on the net please - I'm assuming they have convector flutes on the back and they aren't just flat surfaces both sides and single panel?

Just thinking about this again. Will Octopus reject me if I've used secondhand components (inverter, diverter; the panels would almost certainly be new). Of course if I can get export, there's little incentive for the diverter. But my gut feeling is that export rates are going to go down...

I find a diamond cutting wheel on an angle grinder is pretty good for cutting thin metal. I also have all my fingers.

Thanks for the reminder - same probably goes for GRP, which I may end up with. I understand GRP can be very noisy as it expands & shrinks, although expansion ridges can be built in to mitigate this. My arch tec has specified phenolic insulation for the sloped roof, which I suspect is almost as bad at providing noise insulation as PIR. He's specified PIR under the GRP flat roof.

What improvements could I suggest? One solution would be to put the steels lower down, so their tops are where their bottoms have been drawn. This eats into my narrow vaulted ceiling space, but it could be a price worth paying. Another solution would be to have them lower by half the height of the steel & the sloped roof joists could then have a cut in to accommodate the steel, which the joists would rest on. I don’t think we could maintain the height of the steels & move them closer to one another (even just 100mm, to allow 100mm of insulation to be added), could we? I don’t know how we’d deal with the connection of the sloping roof joist ends if we did that – perhaps just by adding blocks of C24 where we already have C24 bolted into the steel I-beam, to make the connection to each joist end. I wish I had time to draw all these ideas. Perhaps I should be aiming for a warm flat roof with up to 200mm of PIR on top of the rafters.

The detail picture shows the vent at the top of the standing seam is open to the rain – not just the odd raindrop - another drawing shows that all the rain from the flat roof will drains off both long edges (14m along the front of the house, 14m along the back of the house) onto the sloped roof. Surely this detail should show the flat roof edge overhanging the top of the standing seam (perhaps right on top of the seams) – so air just vents out where the standing seam finishes & rainwater from the flat roof drips onto the standing seam 80-100mm beyond the end of the standing seam?