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Fold it over the top of the PIR and seal it to the DPM/radon barrier I think would be the best approach.

Thankyou. Any input on Q3 ? I am relieved to see stickslike***t doesn't come in brown.

OK looks like I have a 10mm for the hob, two 4mm for the ovens, 2.5mm ring main tails, and a 2.5mm spur to the extractor. (Had thought the oven cables might be 2.5mm as the labelling is obscured and 4mm is only 1mm thicker than 2.5mm externally) Can't find the consumer unit ends for the ovens at the moment but they must be tucked up somewhere. Island has ring main, and a seperate 4mm for the quooker tap, plus a lighting cable for the LEDs. I have a kitchen radial with 9 double sockets and a single on it, as they seem to have moved away from ring circuits everywhere. Ideally I need to find a vertical double socket because of limited room to recess into the kitchen island end panel, if anyone has seen any ?

Hopefully Tim can recommend other trades. It often works like that.

Oh that would be really annoying - I'm the same with rattles or resonance in car I know flow rate thro heat pumps is normally much higher than boilers (due to very low DT) so good luck with your mission

I'm the same, it's like having a splinter that has to be removed. I'm dealing with 2 heat pumps at the moment that look like the bottom panel is hitting a resonant frequency that's making them both very loud. The manufacturer's tests have been rubbish. I'm on a mission with that at the moment....

Sticky tape? They should have used something like CT1 or stickslike***t would have been good enough and then trim if required. Should be fine, not much else you can do from what I can see. Any left over to patch? If yes, stick over the top with the adhesive mentioned previously.

Yeah the engineer past it on visual inspection. The repair method at that stage was simple (fill chase with repair mortar) and the chases were exposed so we reckoned why not just get confirmation and do the repair now. Then the repair approach became difficult. Those chases are there now 1.5 years with partial loading above (bathrooms all tiled). No cracking was visible. No floors, sanitaryware, or furniture installed. Spoke to second manufacturer who said same as other one. Repair mortars have too high N value and risk cracking/debonding. Recommends the repair advised by engineer just not with that high an N.

Sorry my error it was Jan when we had 3 days where OAT temp ranged from -6.3 to 2.5 Deg C In the 72 hour period the boiler was running for 68 hours (1.5 hrs was HW) and total number of cycles was 19 (average cycles per day is normally 20 to 24 Hourly flow and return temps for that period are below I hadn't noticed till I looked at the data today but the DT at the boiler ranged from 6.3 to 8.8 (I'm going to assume that the heat loss at colder temps was driving this) Avg DT since 01 Nov 2025 to 31 March 26 was 6.1 Deg C

@craig, is this something you could help with? Many thanks.

When we asked this question of MBC, they said they didn't, but they did have a partner company they work with that you could contract directly with if you wanted. Or you could use your architect.

I think many of them can but the ones I've spoken to thus far recommended working with your architect if possible as a first choice. Maybe it depends on how much you like your architect.

The guy that did my original floor plans has said he can do my a full set of building control plans for round £4000. I’m considering going timber frame and assume the design team will cover most of the elements for building control. Do timber frame companies normally provide full BC or is it a case of combining the two elements?

Homes should never have become investment commodities. All new houses are currently overpriced due to the need to keep the fat cats in candy. There has never been a truly independant review of the UK housebuilding industry, and even when the big housebuilders are caught out for fixing prices they are let off with a slap on the wrist: Seven Housebuilders agreed to pay £100 Million to Settle Cartel Probe – Antitrust Intelligence £100 Million is peanuts compared to the proffits they have made, and who will build the 'affordable housing' that they have 'agreed' to pay for? The ultimate circular economy! If the government really wanted to sort this out they would mandate for thousands of prefabs just as they did in the 50's.

I think they are just answering a different question and expect someone who is working with electrics to know what they are looking for. They are just talked about current carrying capacity of the cable. Up to you to work out how much current your devices will need. Yep so some derating required. 13A socket is not rated for 13A continuously. But kettles are only on for a few minutes before they boil. I would guess a lot less than that. My oven seems to warm up pretty fast and it's not a fixed install (got a 13A plug on the back) so isn't the most powerful. One of these threads triggered me to look up the ratings of fixed install ovens and for single ovens they are all saying they need 16A breakers. So if they are installed on a dedicated circuit with a 16A breaker there is no diversity applied. (Electrician will still do calcs for sizing upstream components). Sounds about right (caveated that insulation/distance derating might drive requirements higher), though my own thought is to always use 4mm as that allows the potential to switch from a single to double in future without rerunning wires. (4mm might not be enough for a double if big derating factors are required). I missed that your ovens are fixed installation in the other thread. If they don't come with a 13A plug (and are therefore fused) they need a dedicated circuit (as the dedicated circuit provides the fuse).

SVA sorted that. UK single vehicle type approval is now more stringent in some areas than full type approval. This was (and still is) a major complaint against SVA; when it was introduced back in the 90's someone tried putting a brand new Ford Mondeo through SVA and it failed on multiple counts. SVA killed the UK kit car scene that was worth millions in the 90's. Perhaps we should introduce something similar to kill off all the big house builders...

Have you asked why they're making these decisions? I'm sure they aren't doing it just to be difficult. It could be about routing needs, including competition from power, electricity, and water routing, interference from building elements such as joists, and/or limitations of their build system. In our case, we'd initially planned to put the MVHR in the pantry, but ended up moving it to the plant room right next door. Admittedly, a large part of the need for that location was my fault, because I didn't give nearly enough thought to the plant room layout before everything (drainage, power, water) was permanently positioned when the slab was poured. In the end (and possibly more relevant to your situation), we also decided to move the manifolds into the utility room, largely because it was clear we'd really struggle routing the per-room ducts around all the other power, water and drainage passing through the ceiling in the plant room. Similar issues could apply even to a couple of large ducts, depending on the routes they might need to take. I suppose my point is that there's generally a reason for every decision. They should be able to articulate that reason. If you end up with the MVHR in the utility room, you could box it in. We did that with ours in the pantry. It just looks like another set of cupboard doors. We did similar with a dropped ceiling below the manifolds in our utility room, with flush access panels for maintenance if needed. It worked well for use. The access panels have have never been opened in the decade since we moved in.

It is often said "choose 2 because you can't have all 3". But that is simplistic. In reality it is a formula of the 3 to get the product you want. Round my way the mass developers are complaining that aren't making money, and in parallel applying for more permissions. The new products are selling more slowly, and the 2 to 3 year old identical units are a lot cheaper. They might be nearing the right cost.

We have that same unit as pictured but in the services room. The ducts leave via the utility room which has a false ceiling with all ductwork hidden from view. We have found the MVHR system to be very good and we saw that as a positive in the Danwood offering. The one issue is the location of the outlets in the floors, could do with them nearer the walls but as they're placed under windows it's not that bad.

I'm going to be building a Danwood house. Some things are flexible and other things definitely aren't and it is difficult to tell beforehand which will be which, they have a build system and that is that. I've attached a photo i took of the system in a completed house I visited.

I wonder what the council would do if you put the caravan inside the outbuilding

Worth a mention we do have some house rules

Any thoughts on this one folks ?

If all the houses get sold, then they are too cheap. Not that often I agree with @Roger440, but he is spot on when comparing house and car quality. It is why kit car manufacturers don't make very good products. The components parts may reach a set quality level, just as they do in the housing industry. Then then get put together by morons. It is often quoted that you cannot have speed, quality and cheapness. You can, it is what production engineering does every hour of every day.

We're going through the detailed design stage of a Danwood house build in Scotland and the MVHR ducting layout they've come up with means that although there is a decent-sized, dedicated technical room, a lot of ducting is visible in the utility room. They even wanted to put the MVHR in the utility room itself, despite the technical room being directly next to it! The UK-based guys are very helpful but the Polish team seem either unwilling or unable to meet our needs so I'm trying to work out my available options and next steps. I'd be keen to hear whether anyone has built a Danwood house and didn't have an MVHR installed. Also, for those that do have a Danwood build with an MVHR, would you be able to upload a photo showing the unit and the ducting to the point it 'disappears' behind walls and ceilings?