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the counter argument is that at the coldest temps, for a given heat output, an oversized heat pump works more efficiently than undersized - manufacturer's data tables back that up. During the coldest days you could be using 10 x as much electricity as the mildest heating days. Think about the maths, for example, 10% more efficiency x 100kWh on the coldest days = a 10kWh saving, whereas 10% inefficiency x 10kWh on the mildest days means only a 1kWh loss.

Maybe, but most houses on here are outside their comfort zone, ventilation heat loss just too small, to allow s tick the normal tick box. Hence plenty are specified way over sized.

Send them a quote on letter-headed 'paper' to supply one to them at the price you have been quoted + 20 to 25%, and confirm it *will* be at the address before their contractor arrives.😉

You'd need a very big PHE. The flow through pool heatpumps is huge compared to CH. If you have to upsize the domestic heatpump you may also lose out financially. Pool heatpumps are super cheap compared with domestic ones. Feels like this is something so outside your normal heat pump installers wheelhouse, that you'll either be paying them a huge amount to learn on the job and develop a bespoke solution for you or you'll scare them all off.

Use a normal domestic one, your just heating a buffer as far as it's concerned. Depending on hot tub size a big one. To keep the ASHP inhibited and pressurised you may need to plate load the hot tub, but size the phe correctly, you have a 2 Deg approach temp. Then you have no issues with DHW heating, it just switches the diverter valve as normal. Add a second zone for cooling, so it bypasses the hot tub or have the hot tub cooler in summer and as cooling buffer. Heat pump doesn't care if it doing heating or cooling it just moving the refrigerant 4 port valve to a different position (as long manufacturer hasn't disabled the cooling function). Most heat pumps have the functionality to have different zones as cooling only, heat only or both. And the functions can be independently set for each zone.

I thought pool heat pumps had fairly different optimisations from domestic ones so trying to mix them would not be advisable. @SBMS wants cooling anyway so I think needs a separate system on that basis.

I just looked and came to same conclusion you did, even NE Scotland I can have in two days.

Have you considered using a single heat pump? Size the spa heat pump big enough for the house, use the volume of the hot tub as a heat source for the house via a plate heat exchanger and mixer valve. Heat pump does two jobs, keeps hot tub temp stable, and or DHW via a diverter valve.

Hi all If you look at my brick thread I am currently having a house insurance claim. The last stumbling block is them replacing the radiator that was damaged. The insurers contracting company is making a huge song and dance that the radiator in the lounge is unusual and requires special ordering in? Its just a bog standard radiator to me? When looking around it takes a day or so for one to come in but they are readily available. Although they are not sitting on shelves ready to be bought like some common radiators.

And I would agree - if there is no new circuit then there is no need for notification just compliance with the BS. I find that since you rarely get the entire circumstances explained in a post, it's more appropriate just to clarify the legislation and then let the poster decide if it applies to them or not.

Hi Everyone, We're looking at a Danwood build on a plot we've bought. This is our first self-build and we're total newbies right at the very beginning (no planning, just vague design ideas atm). I'm trying to understand all the stages and parties that need to be involved to get as far as the Danwood bit starting. With Danwood, they give you the requirements and layout for the foundations, including where to put cut outs for the utilities. I understand we take those requirements to a civil/structural engineer to have foundations designed, which we then take to a groundworks firm, who presumably also handle any hard landscaping that's needed, such as driveway access and levelling. So bits I'm not sure on. Who liaises with utility companies to bring services on site? I know the providers have to do their bit on the road, but how does that get fed through into the right places on the plot and which bit happens first? Who sets up temporary utilities? Who decides about surface water management (gutters, soak aways or surface drain connection)? Cheers Tim

Fantastic build, the Ash is such a premium product and looks great. I purchased about 300sqm of locally cut Red Cedar, 200mm wide and then cut a half lap on each edge, fixed with SS screws. Very knotty compared to Canadian but does not detract. Image below is triggering!! But you do have very good builders, you must so pleased with the progress. Can you tell me what the electrics behind the cladding is, one looks like Cat 5/6?

https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-black-jack-damp-proof-membrane/p10290?store=null&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21016232523&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcX3SICQivfTjJrOYFQACEcF9&gclid=CjwKCAiA0eTJBhBaEiwA-Pa-hbx22hKHf4L0JhrXGpuqT5asuMzSUApyYANX_9hicTjUNIoDLEk_zBoCpeYQAvD_BwE I'd chip away an inch or so from the top of those blocks, then apply the liquid DPC, and then after at least 2-3 coats have been applied you can back-fill with a self-levelling compound. You can get 1L tins iirc.

My non-expert impression, it's likely that pitched roof was extended such that you'll have the original joists spanning to and supported on the yellow and the extension joists spanning yellow to red and supported by both, rather than any being full span, so both will be load bearing. (The lack of moss/lichen on that part of the roof suggests the tiles are newer/different) Exploring the loft is a good suggestion. Is there any planning permission record online for the property? That might give a better idea of the changes. Someone's already spent a fair bit of money on a not very practical extension, so be wary of making the same mistake. If it ends up looking expensive to remove the yellow wall, I'd start looking at what you might do long term - if for example you may want to build out across the whole rear of the property, maybe think about that now as you'll end up reworking things and paying for structural changes again.

After a bit of advice following a knock through... As you'd expect, there was a DPC atop those concrete blocks in my picture, now removed along with the wall. Next step is making good and I was planning to put a latex compound down to smooth/sort out slight level differences. BUT, without the DPC, I worry about the risk of moisture ingress via capillary action. It's a block and beam floor and those concrete blocks are ultimately in ground contact. What's the most practical way to resolve the risk?

Yes it's Brimstone Ash from Vastern timber. Expensive but really excellent quality - straight as a dye, virtually no knots, and it came really well packed. It cuts cleanly and we haven't experienced any splitting, despite Vastern warning that it can be brittle. We originally intended using western red cedar but discovered that cedar reacts with zinc and we have some high cladding above our zinc roof. The Brimstone Ash is inert (so we are told!). It's about the same price as Canadian cedar but has the benefit of going silver quicker, and it's British, so lower transport CO2 costs. Stainless nails are an absolute must. We're using Timco FirmaHold 16G 50mm Stainless 2nd fix nails through the face - very hard to see. Regarding the edge above the windows. Although it doesn't really show in the photo all the bottom edges are cut at a 30 degree angle to leave a drip point at the outside edge. This was recommended by Vastern. The same for any joins in long verticals, though incredibly I think we have only needed 2 or 3 due to lots of long lengths being supplied and careful selection by our carpenters. For the bottom edges they have fixed them slightly over sized then run a rail saw. Anyway we feel the angled cut at the bottom should stop water pooling on those bottom edges. Further progress on the cladding today:

Ask the agent you want to see in the loft. go armed with a step ladder and a camera and post the pictures of the findings.

Read the data sheet for the heat pump in the offer to make sure it is doing the correct output for your heat loss. The nameplate sizing as with most manufacturers is not very well representative. And make sure you are being pushed into a buffer when you most likely do not need one. Also don't go pre-plumbed cylinder. Lots of stuff on apre plumbed you pay for but may never use.

Do you mean the nacelles? If my 35 year ago experience in composites is anything to go by, then it could be, in part, material prices. I had a run in with ICI about chemical prices becuase I could get the components made in India, then delivered to any European site, cheaper than I could buy the materials. The Indians were using the exact same materials, made in the same plant at Teeside. Out of spite, and because EU free trade started, I changed to a German made polymer.

Yes but Denmark and Germany are, and they are the main manufacturers of wind turbines in Europe. It's almost as if being the in the EU isn't actually that bad an idea. Ah well, what do I know.

That was my initial thought, but for that to be true, I think it would mean the entire roof must have been replaced at some point since the pitch is regular on both front and back. Which I guess means its truly impossible to say without looking in the loft where the weight is likely to be borne? What do you mean by "really compromised"? Assuming the weight is borne on the red wall, it wouldn't be too costly to address. If it's borne on the yellow, we can either make it good somehow (perhaps), or just take down the red wall and keep the bedroom as it, I think? Or are you seeing something that I'm missing?

Norway isn't in it - fully And we aren't so could do it tomorrow if we wanted

I'm quite surprised that they can do that in a common market.

Bit of a legacy issue here, bit of a cock up during the build means that my first floor is at different levels, a section when drop measured is between 18mm and 23mm lower. I've now finished kicking the can down the road and it's time to do something. The flooring that was put down is the Egger or Caberdek type grey topped boards which are 22mm? It's about 30m2 to go at. What options do I have to bring the levels up? We'll be carpeting upstairs if that makes any difference to a solution. Would something like no more ply and then a suitable SLC be the way to go?

But I read the question that @Alan Ambrose wants to run the dc cables for lighting. Presumably therefore the ac wiring to the switch and to the transformer already exists. So this is not a new circuit. So he can do most of the dc wiring he wants without notification, as long as it is not not in a special location. Which is why in my original reply I said most is not notifiable.