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The thought of being trapped in @Pocster's basement with no stimulus, apart from Coldplay, makes me want to walk out to sea and not return.

That's exactly how I built our 2 "garden rooms", except ours are 4.8 x 3.0, and I used Rockwool (not as good, but cheaper and easier). Been 2 years now and no problems at all. Have the osb on the inside and covered the outside with membrane and then featheredge, which seemed the cheapest solution.

I clearly need to be a bit more disciplined and sort this side out. I've been finding some real limitations with not working locally and version management. I haven't given it access to my local machine so this is definitely causing some friction and the Claude project area has some serious limitations. As I found out, I uploaded all my project files into the depository, but then found out that as soon as Claude does a re-write/patch or whatever edit of the file, it provides an output for download but doesn't update the project file. Then it goes back to use the project file without telling you, ignoring the new output. Even with clear instructions to check with me the latest deployed files, it sometimes completely forgets, completes a new write and output and some of the earlier code is then missing - VS Code deploy version comparison has been a bit of a godsend). I'm currently on very clear instructions and when it creates a new output, I still upload the deployed file to ask it to check the versions are consistent. Now, this is okay for small stuff, but it becomes a right PIA on anything larger (although it still saves hours, weeks and months of human time in what it's able to output - I'm just getting spoiled nowadays). And another little bug I found is that sometimes, if I select download all for the new artifacts, some of the contents are actually previous versions, not what has just been produced! So, having learnt what it takes to prompt, I'm now working out the next step which you've clearly nailed.

LOL! I understand exactly what you mean and exactly that bug. But as I've said to date not had to look at 1 line of code. Chat provides the patch but we have a array of multiple tests it has to pass. If it fails the tests etc I get an output file of why. This is then chucked back at chat where it either does another patch or a better scout. I've added stuff to the pi harness to reduce failing patches quite substantially e.g. pi can now grep/sed/tail files into its prompt for local 120b scout. Commits only happen when I say so. Ledger updates must match i.e. what we did, what was tested, what was commited. Basically so many guardrails that any patching applied has to be rock solid. I spend 90% of my time after supplying the spec/task pressing '7' to scout or '2' to apply patch. A few copy n pastes when chat gets pissy and stuck i.e. it tells me what it needs and I do it manually. TBH it's working really well. Soon I'll tie this into the 1st version of voice transcript and upload a demo. Here's where I spend most my time!

Birds, 9x10 it is birds, they love the mastic for some reason. I've had to repair mastic on numerous windows and rubber seals over the years.

Why in the Southern States the VCL is on the inside. Mind you, with climate change affecting the regional weather patterns, there may need to be some rethink about condensation risks.

Thanks @SimonD I should have said, I am planning to use C16 47x95 stud, o fit the 90mm PIR and thanks for the tip on OSB size.

My house whole timber framed first floor is built with 600 centres, but it does use 140 studs as opposed to 63 or 89. If you're using 90mm PIR then you'll want to be using the 140x38mm CLS or alternatively 145x45mm C16 anyway, so no problem at all. Just bear in mind that unless you specifically order 2400 x 1200 OSB, you'll be getting sheets that are 2440 x 1220 and will therefore need to shave them down when you sheath the frame.

wow, thats bad. I mean my porch/canopy was shit, but thats another level. That "flashing" is basically a scam, im not sure what advice you need but at the very least that flashing needs sorting out. My builder used offcuts of an old fence (i had stored for burning) in my porch roof and cut the canopy rafters too short so added bits on the end. As its exposed it looks crap and i'll have to box it in with soffit board or something. "Most people make a feature out of the exposed timbers" he said. At that stage i just wanted them gone so i let it go, another job i need to finish.

No reason at all why you can't make an application for a certificate of lawful development for a PD extension to the roof of the dwelling despite having an extant approval for a ground floor extension. The limit on volume created relates to the roof of the building not the building as a whole. The two issues are completely separate. Of course you are not obliged to obtain a certificate before carrying out PD works as long as you are confident you comply fully with the provisions of Part B in Schedule 2 of the PD rules.

What @Nickfromwales said although I wouldn't even give it a 1/10

Just looks like its a zinc roof which goes round it, can't see anything different other than that

I am planning a small garden room build of 2.4x4.8m and was hoping to use 600mm stud centers with 11mm OSB sheathing and 90mm PIR to, not only, save on materials costs but recon this should also reduce thermal bridging. Since most ready-made garden shed typically have the same and given the extra rigidity of the OSB and insulation, I feel this should be good enough, but would like to hear from anyone who has experience having done similar or if there is some really obvious reason why this is a bad idea please. Thanks in advance.

I don't think the vapour barrier has a right way, but consistency is a good thing. Looks like they painted the wood after fitting the vapour barrier. I wonder if they painted the top of each joist? There shouldn't be a hole through the slates apart from where the nails are holding them. If that last picture is showing a "hole" that goes throught o the membrane, then for a new roof, that needs sorting. I'd get them back to sort this last piece out at least. If they can't prove the top of the joists were painted (and if they should have done so) then looks like they have redo the whole job.

How is any other cabling being routed in and around the insulation??

It's nice when that happens. And then it all goes wrong with a single update - I just had an entire afternoon and evening trying to resolve a bug, eventually it was a single line of code causing double parsing of the string from the DB. Essentially the code was parsing something already parsed automatically by Postgres and it was looking in the wrong files to fix the bug. It's these days that drive you potty.

Well done @BTC Builder I'd love to hear how the vat goes.

It calculates kW as either a positive or negative dependant on heating or cooling. The kWh heat delivered scale is exactly the same as electric meter, it only adds it doesn't run backwards. So in cooling the kWh counter stays static Not exactly correct, it calculates kW then adds a time function to get kWh. Heat pump monitor software has a tick box in the settings to allow it to understand if you also do cooling and it runs an internal timer to distinguish between cooling and defrosting. Once timer elapsed it knows you are in cooling mode and attributes the correct CoP, SCoP values

The heat meter measures the flow rate and flow and return temps and calculates a kwh heat transferred number which normally just increases like an electricity meter. Not sure if the return is warmer than the flow if it will decreases the total kwh transferred counter.

Umm it was actually @BTC Builder who was the OP and had the hold up!

As you’re with MBC I guess you’re going passive-ish? If you are (and you should, especially if you’re using MBC) don't put anything through the roof, even if the soil stack is effectively sealed it’ll be an unnecessary thermal bridge. As @Dunc says: That is the way to do it. That’s the way we did it. MBC will do what you ask, and do it well and the airtightness will be spot on, but if you’re trying to be ‘passive’ don’t have that tube going through the roof. Also, don’t put any ducting through the insulation if you can possibly avoid it (you can). Any large ducts through the insulation will degrade the insulation properties where the ducts are, and that’ll degrade the ‘passive’ aspect, the passive bit is worth fighting for, it pays dividends. There is always a better way so that you can keep everything inside the airtight layer, even if it may compromise a little bit of the interior space.

Have a look here at 4.3.6. Gives the gist. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.6.htm

There is air cooling and air conditioning, they are not the same thing. Air conditioning controls the humidity and the temperature.

I'm not an electrician but my electrician was always reluctant to run cable through insulation like that. Instead all cabling was run in ducting installed through the insulation so there's at least some air gap between the cable and duct.

Obviously give it a cursory once over but I bet it would sail through. It's pretty much a box ticking exercise anyway.