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What does it smell like?

We are still a bit mid Atlantic which confuses people on both sides. For example we drive miles (and yards) and consume fuel in mpg but buy it in litres?!

I looked out of our static caravan this morning to see the below 😞 can anyone advise. We have a 7PE tank and it’s just my wife and I.

Thanks for the information, Sparrowhawk. Time is running out for me we have found a buyer for our current home and in around two months will have to move so establishing a heating system has become mission critical. You asked if it has original skirts and Plastere yes it does have done or I’m doing a sympathetic renovation. It has 11 inch skirting boards downstairs and installing underfloor heating would raise the floor level by 3 cm losing some of the skirting board height which also niggles me. The space to cover is 106 m² and I would propose to install it myself and have an engineer hook it up to the boiler that is if it’s going to be economical to run I cannot afford making a here because running cost of a house of the size of significant and my salary is not a significant one so I have to make the right choice. If it’s not going to save me on my bills, then there’s no point in doing it and I should continue to seek out to cast iron radiators to install and retain the Period character of the house. Nonetheless, I do want it but is wanting it merit enough to install it. Another issue is finding cast iron radiator is big enough for each room. It’s proving to be very difficult so I may have to install two smaller Custom irons rather than one big one.

is this just at the bottom, draped into the gutter?

This is probably the only configuration that might allow the trap insert to be removed without having to remove the downpipe shoe and likely the lowest downpipe section too. That should be an uncommon event, but worth bearing in mind. That said, the trap insert locates in a pair of guide slots so I think it would have to travel directly upwards so would probably still clash with the shoe. I checked and the trap insert can be removed through the UG427RAST extension piece.

Good point! Best to run separate in this case in my opinion. Much more cost effective!

I'm not sure about Scotland but in England I think your right to maintain a discharge pipe should be in the neighbours title. So I'd be looking at that and possibly even speaking to the neighbour. If its mentioned in his title and he's all happy explain you might need to repair the pipe/install a new pipe and see if you can negotiate the cost of that and a sewerage treatment plant off the asking price. Check what permits are needed if any to do the upgrade. I guess it depends how much you like the house if you want the hassle.

Hi all, This slate roof is 150 yeas old. The structure appears to be sound and well built, the rafters are wet when it is stormy weather, tiles seem to get wet at corners of tiles as in picture. Is this porous slate or condensation, or something else ? Any advice on next steps is a reroof inevitable? Thanks all D

That's an interesting question. Just went hunting and came up with this chart, showing public approval & disapproval of Government between 1957 & 1991. The only periods when more people approved of the Government than disapproved, were 1957 to 1962 (Harold Macmillan, Conservative, Keynesian economics, prosperity, "You’ve never had it so good" - until the Profumo scandal), and 1964 to 1966 (Harold Wilson, Labour, low unemployment, economic prosperity, major social reforms, "white heat of technology" - until defeated at the polls). Source: Social and Political Change in Britain (1945-1991) | ROPER CENTER

Somewhat, it's down the the interaction between the boiler and how it meets the opentherm setpoint (which is set by Wiser and changed constantly). When Wisers 'Heating Demand' measure started oscillating so did the boiler. I changed the set point then to force a long continuous burn and after I dropped the set point again we are now back to no oscillation and less cycling. Now I imagine there could easily be a feedback loop where the boiler cutting out due to insufficient modulation for my CH system triggers the oscillation. My comment earlier was that wiser doesn't offer a way to rate limit or filter this setting which makes cycling more likely. Opentherm also offers a way of turning the flame on and off remotely without using the relay. I don't know if wiser is using that ability or not. This is all somewhat off-topic for this thread though. I want to optimise what I have to the best extent possible physically, then explore wiser more. My plan is: 1. Complete tweaking balance, etc 2. See how wiser works if asked to just manage the temp in the warm part of the home. (it should be able to satisfy that with lower temps and the colder unregulated rooms will act as a bigger heatsink to prevent cycling). 3. See what difference these fan kits I've ordered make (GPT suggests they could double the heat output of the radiators at high flow temps but don't help that much at low flow temps). 4. By the time I've done this I will have had more time to think about radiators. Looks like I can replace the two vastly undersized ones for ones with 2.5x the output for about £150 if I don't mind sacrificing matching the existing. I can't justify the cost of matching existing but moving to the cheap ones might get payback (and if I keep the old ones I can always swap them back in if the new ones cause issues with buyers/valuation). 5. If I do upgrade radiators then I go through the above again 6. If still having problems talk to wiser Good news so far is that if I've done my sums right my gas usage is only about 50% more than normal heating the whole place vs what I was doing before. Given the heating is on for >14 hours a day vs maybe 6 before this doesn't seem to bad (more than I'd like long term though). This means I'm not in a huge rush to finalise this process and can take the time to try things out

Hang on here before you chuck in the towel. It's quite usual to find no membrane or bituminous felt under an old slate / clay tiled roof. Can you post some photos so we can have a look at what you have from the inside and the outside. In a new build yes, but when we are considering old buildings and upgrading it can actually be an advantage. The old traditional roofer ( 100 years ago) did not have access to felts and membranes so they gave their slates / tiles more head lap. We can use this to our advantage at times as the roof is really drafty, every cloud has a silver lining!

Agree a bit of air can cause havoc. One way to purge this is to shut off the other loops and open the air vent. You'll need a bucket and a few towels to catch the water. Give it a good go and don't forget to top up the inhibitor once you have finished.

If it's on and not clicking off then the cycling is down to the boiler

Yeh that's basically been on all day.

Old boiler couldn't support Open Therm - so yes I was managing room temps via TRV's however I had one room that needed much longer than all the others to hit target temp - so when other rooms reach temp and the Wiser Hub stopped the boiler it buggered up any chance of getting the one room to actually reach the temp required

No I mean the CH light on the Hub - flame on the app is just saying room is not at target temp - flame out says at target temp

Thank you for the replies, much appreciated and looking like they shall have to remove the slates. kind regards, kevan

By the CH light do you mean the flame icon? I don't tend to look at the thermostat but rather the app, but it has a representation of the same. It doesn't appear to be directly connected to the opentherm requests. I've seen plenty of times when the boiler is active (and cycling) when the flame icon is off. I initially thought it was a bug (and my boiler was ignoring opentherm requests) but after a decent amount of observation I think the flame icon represents not matching the setpoint. ie, in a traditional on/off system, when the thermostat calls for heat. But with Opentherm it's trying to modulate the flow to maintain the set point to a much more precise degree (within 0.1C) and as long as it considers itself as successfully regulating that then the flame is off. The relay signal to the boiler has stayed on all day barring once around dinner time when cooking pushed the temp a fair bit above set point at which point the relay switched off. What I think is happening in my case is that Wiser adjusts the setpoint it wants from the boiler constantly based on the heating demand % supplied by the thermostat. Wiser wants the boiler on all the time to maintain the set point. The boiler is willing to exceed the set point by a certain amount but if it goes over that then it shuts off. I think there's more to it than this but feels like the main issue. I assume you mean since you moved to weather comp and not using opentherm at all. That's not really something I want to do (given the amount of disruption running the cable would involve) and I'm not sure weather compensation would help when the CH system can't dump out the heat from the boiler at minimum modulation.

Ok that is settled. First paragraph. The UK oil and gas energy resource is not "fininite" in terms of the next 50 years. There is plenty! It's just that the UK tax system makes it less attractive to extract. If we use our own resource that satisfies and mitigates your point of despot regimes, blatent abuse of human rights. Cut off their money! That is why we need to be relying on the West of Scotland oil and gas fields and fracking. Schiehallion, Loyal, and Foinaven fields. This gives us national energy security in the short to medium term and delivers well paying jobs and income taxes etc from that. . The money we get from this can then be used to drive towards zero carbon emissions. If we just import oil and gas we are paying the Arabs instead, for no benefit to ourselves. You have to remember that us Brits are great innovators, we can't do that if we have no cash! Unfortunatly we have the Greens in Scotland who don't know what a woman is, so we have much doubt about their ability to make evidenced based decisions on the oil and gas industry which impact on all of the UK. You see they can control this through the planning system not least! One of my pals is an SE who is working on this, the actual design of the rigs and how you extract oil and gas in deep water and then get it to shore. It's also to do with the quality of the oil. Much of the oil from the Middle east is a bit crap to say the least and really churns out some nasty stuff during the refining process. Ok, fair enough. But this is a typical response from lefties, mention Reform and you are far right. I mention them as an Engineer. Tice and Farage have said in their speaches that they recognise that they don't have the strength and depth within their party to run the country. But they have said that they will second people from indusrty, Engineers, Doctors to support them where they are weak. Take some time and listen to some of their speaches before you come back for a second time and ask me for evidence. In the round though I think we are of the same mind. Here you make a good pragmatic conclusion. Lastly is ok to disagree!

Take the actuators off on the not working loops, does the flow meter move down (the red lines). Removing actuator opens loop, regardless of call for heat. If this resolves issue you have an issue with electrics. If nothing changes you have an issue with air in the system, get the plumber back to bleed the loops. Takes all the junk off the UFH loop pipes. Look to box in, so they don't get damaged.

Assuming here you have Wiser Hub and One room stat (no smart TRV's) Watch the hub - if the CH light goes out it's killing the boiler because it's trying to stop temperature overshoot I agree this is an annoying characteristic If the CH light is not going out then it's not interveening My solution to the issue was to set the room stat or a smart TRV to a higher target temp that cannot be achieved - that way the Wiser Hub doesn't get to screw around making the boiler cycle or stopping it mid burn (which is what it did with my old boiler when I had it set up with a really long anticycle timer to give the rads chance to dump the heat)

3C (seems to track the difference measuring at the pipes closely) I did have it at 8 or so yesterday with the lockshield about a quarter turn open

Hi, hoping for a little advice. After switching on my ufh I’ve discovered that two rooms in our bungalow aren’t warming. The system was installed before we moved here (just over 10 years ago) but we haven't altered anything in that time. Upon closer inspection I found that the two actuators, linked to the thermostats in those rooms had stayed closed. I removed them, tested the pins (which all tested similarly to the others, firm but they do move) and re-attached. Voila! (I thought) as they slowly rose up. However, after several hours, no heat came to the rooms… I’ve tried testing each non-working thermostat in isolation by turning them to max but no joy. I can’t feel heat coming from the supply pipes leading to those rooms either but the actuator tops do get warm. I’m wondering, is if this all sounds familiar to anyone? And is it something can resolve myself? Or am I in, call out a professional territory? We did have a new boiler fitted around March this year. Though we haven’t had any problems with it. We also had a small leak coming from the return area of the manifold. This was repaired shortly after boiler was fitted by the same person. I have no idea how long we had the leak but when I did find it, it was a single drip every 30 seconds or so. Attached photos of the set up. And one (where i'm pointing) from when I noticed the leak. From left to right on the manifold, the seven connected rooms are performing as follows: O - NW - W - W - NW - NW - W (O = Off, W = Working, NW = Not working) I do have Bosch AdvancedTemp Infrared Thermometer. Incase it help with fault finding. Thank you for any help in advance.

Since yesterday, I've opened up various valves, the two most distant radiators fully open, and opened the towel rails a bit. The system manages very long burns if allowed a higher temperature and it's not close to set point, but as it gets close to set point it drops the temperature and cycles more. By staring at the Home Assistant graphs, I'm still seeing some very short cycles but a lot of them I can connect to Wiser demand changing mid flow (which seems like a bad design from them). BTW I do have it set up as Oil boiler, which should limit things to 3 cycles per hour, but obviously getting a lot more than that.