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“Clean your panels in spring, folks!!!”

yes about 20% in percentage terms

110w improvement after cleaning?

They chase the last % efficiency but cannot do the simple things. I am going to install the previous image clips to my flat panels on a pergola roof to see what they do. There are two panels. Hadn't cleaned for over 6 months after cleaning made 110W difference in full sun, even though the panel were really mucky at the start.

If it’s already installed, not a great deal you can do now, other than drop the cavity insulation down into it. The biggest issue here will be where the internal tongue of steel protrudes into the internal block leaf, so best practice here would be to use an insulated plasterboard to finish the block wall, making 1000% sure that nothing like dot & dab (board adhesive) etc is in contact with the steel. Covering it externally will be of benefit, with perhaps Compacfoam or PIR, but without seeing a section drawing of where the head of the window ends up it’s a bit difficult to say much more. Can you pencil up a sketch? Architect drawing for this detail? PS, I have hidden your duplicate thread to keep the replies in one place

You think manufacturers would simply omit 20-30mm sections of frame in all 4 corners, leaving the metal sides flush with the top of the glass to allow this runoff, but I suppose the glass edge is then too vulnerable.

I've done a few buildings ( schools and factories) on steep slopes. My principle has been to build a platform at the higher level, then a conventional framed building on top. That keeps it simple and vastly more economical. No basement as you get into a different level of complexity and risk.( digging into the ground, waterproofing, stability, access) So that is conventional strip footings ans walls up to level . Then beam and block or precast planks make the surface. You are then out of the ground and on a solid surface. With a raft you have a big hole to dig then work in. If the slope is steep there is potential differential movement of the ground. If the slope is extreme then you can perhaps have a natural extra storey or part of one. Worth mentioning perhaps that in a couple of those jobs the original designers had assumed the dig and raft technique or retaining walls and mass fill to make a platform. I met one during negotiation and discussed the principles, and he was simply surprised at the cost difference, not being a contractor. Beam and block then a conventional kit above is my suggestion.

True, but things have been developed to help - you can add capillary clips to help drain water and debris off.

It's an additional system which adds a heat meter to the system (heat pump monitor). You have a very open and settable controller unlike many other makes.

PV panels laid flat (sub 12°) won’t ‘self-clean’.

In round fully automatic via the inbuilt timers. But when I do an Axle VPP it is supposed do the setting changes automatically also, but has messed up leaving eco mode setting off instead of switching it back on. It's generally gone wrong when other so called systems were involved. Learning for was keep it simple.

I got an answer back. From a bot it would appear but it was a pretty much instant response: "Good afternoon, Regarding your question about running two Indra Smart Pro chargers on a single-phase supply: yes, this is possible with each charger using its own CT clamp on the same incoming meter tails for independent load curtailment. On a single-phase installation: - Each charger can independently monitor the total load on the supply using its own CT clamp and will adjust its charging rate as needed to protect the main fuse. - Each CT clamp should be installed at the main supply, before any junctions, and as close to the main cut-out fuse as possible, with the arrows facing the grid (incoming supply). With this setup, both chargers will independently perform load curtailment based on the total current measured by their own CT clamps, so there is no requirement for a dedicated multi-charger load-sharing configuration in this scenario. If you have any more questions or would like help checking your planned setup details, just let us know and we can escalate this to a human agent for you. Thank you for contacting Indra Renewable Technologies Ltd. Best regards, Indra Renewable Technologies Ltd AI Agent"

Do you run your systems automatically, manually or semi manually. I guess I can see how you could 'mess up' in manual mode but how might you 'mess up' in the other two?

"Never answer the question that is asked of you. Answer the question that you wish had been asked of you." Robert McNamara

Hi Furnace, I am in a similar situation as yourself, where I have Square Hollow Steel (stainless steel) installed to support a mono pitch roof above a bay window, I wonder if you could give an update on how you got around insulating the steel in your situation. My stainless steel is sitting in a 100mm cavity (brick outside and dense blocks inside). The brick will go up half way, then a window will be installed so part of the steel will be covered by the window frame. The build is in progress and I am seeking advice.

Beautiful words, softly spoken.

I thought you'd never ask...............

I've asked this specific question over on the OVO forum: "Can two Indra Smart Pro chargers each be fitted with their own CT clamp on the same incoming meter tail, allowing independent load curtailment on a single-phase installation, or do the chargers require a dedicated multi-charger load-sharing configuration?

I very much doubt that will be an issue here at all, and I'd say go with the green option and stay off your neighbours property / asset. Perfectly simple and a 'good' solution, so KISS.

Does the manufacturer say these can talk to each other, and go 'master' and 'slave'? Eg your car for work at 06:30 MUST be charged, but SWMBO's can be at 50% and that'll do for 08:00 for any run to the shop (kinda thing).

What have they done here, and can you follow as original?

Quite a few on here have done basements by a 3rd party, and then plonked a TF atop, as most TF companies won't touch a basement (or anything sub / semi-subterranean) with a shitty stick. May be a lot simpler for you to go with ICF all the way, but with timber for posi joists / internal walls etc. One point of contact for responsibility / coordination / liability, reducing risk massively (and avoiding errors and the blame game).

Thanks for the Welcome! Potentially both Timberframe and ICF. The plot is sloping, so needs a lower ground floor which dug into the hilside and partially below ground level. Working assumption at the moment is a raft foundation, tanked ICF lower ground floor then timber frame 1st/2nd floor. Definitely would be interested to hear if anyone on the forum has experience of this, given it's less common.

Someone I follow built this tool to calculate the best Octopus tariff to be on. If you plug in how much you generate, how much you.use etc.... it will tell you the best tariff. Solar Tariff Optimiser https://share.google/j6ENJD1G8wSMKYbLl

OK officially it’s SEG, SMart Export Guarantee. But me being a red dwarf fan…