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Ah you think we might get condensation inside the heater box thing. .?

You most likely start making water at the heat exchanger, so will need to add some form of drain.

I would consider it generally rubbish due to low flow rates for cooling. However you can look at a different way as a dehumidifier to the incoming air. This will actively reduce house humidity and allow more margin from dew point for UFH (cooling), so you can run it cooler with no dew point issues.

Mine came with double sided tape. Although I actually upgraded most of it 25mm PIR in the end

IMG_6736.mov I’ve got a pre heater fitted on my mvhr ducting on the fresh incoming air, I’ve decided to run cool water through it from the cool water that’s going through the floor, it’s dropped the incoming air temp by 10 degrees. what’s your opinion worth doing ? should I ramp the mvhr to push the air around quicker or is it a bit pointless as mvhr moves so little air about I’m wasting my time. thoughts people.

Lumberjack

i used a spray contact adhesive on my internal upright, stuck no problem.

Anyway it literally is my thread i.e just me LOL! Claude's been (expletive deleted)ing amazing!. We've optimised like (expletive deleted). We have planer reflections/ atmosphere/bloom/lens flare/ Ambient occlusion all the things you want turned on with a high end pc!. Just about still at 60fps (we upscale now for a saving). Volumetric clouds (rain/snow will get claude to do a new version of the chat version). Optimised the shaders - 20% gain!. Now we must say good bye to that (expletive deleted)ing crap face and my gaudy amiga demo ripple at the base. I need the gpu time back!. So will still have a 'face' for the alexa/chatgpt functionality but clearly everything is embed in some way into the 3d engine. To be honest it's better than most commercial game engines. But of course I made sure it was designed to look the bollocks with zero coding and zero graphics by me.

Internal on painted steels. Not a clue where I got it from, was five years ago.

Thanks - was this internal or external? Do you mind sharing where you got it from?

I used foil faced aerogel, easier to work with and stick down. I think I used double sided tape.

I am planning to fit a layer of 10mm aerogel to the outside of a steel column. Any recommendations on glue / other methods? (Please state if you’ve managed to do this before - my experience of contact adhesive is that it can behave very differently based on the material type and I’m not sure how well aerogel will take to it. https://www.buyinsulationonline.co.uk/product/spacetherm-aerogel-insulation?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22363171127&gbraid=0AAAAAolHs10y0c_FTCj4HYGnIHug1AoAk&gclid=CjwKCAjw6rfSBhAqEiwA_yocplauhT7e_l1Z4u49lcBwb0LQX6mldg5QaCV0ZC2lrjISc1cW3JRo5hoCFTQQAvD_BwE

In that case, it will look utter xxxx

Very quiet around here.....

Good afternoon, Does anyone know where I can buy tile edging in pieces longer than 2.5 meters? I really don't want a butt joint unless I really have to. Cheers all Pete

Just pretend you are wrapping the wife’s Christmas presents.

Usually, polymer manufactures keep to what they know. The properties are probably very similar to the paints in the rest of their range. The three things most likely to change are the surface tension additive, the pigment/dye and the etching agent additive. The rest will be the same. Buy a pot and give it a go.

Many thanks for this thread. It's been really useful, cheers.

You can get double sided butyl tape for sticking DPM / DPC / radon membranes. Use that. Don't overthink. This is just to comply with regs. Anything built before the 1990s has nothing at all, so that is at least 85% of all housing. Use youtube to have a practice doing the corners. It may help if you ever do flat roof membrane in future.

Given I have been probably wasting far too much time and energy worrying about getting the detailing right in relation to our required 'Basic' Radon protection, I am now wondering whether I should scrap the proposed purchasing of Visqueen pre formed corners and instead just adopt the good old tape approach. I am not sure whether many people use the pre formed corners and given that the garage door opening pair and garage side door pair are ~ £240, I am struggling to justify the expense. If I can adopt an approach of cutting DPM pieces and overlapping and jointing with tape, does anyone know of a resource that shows how you can form internal and external corners.

I know some will baulk at these costs but £10k is exactly what I paid so that number is not unrealistic for a fully designed, supplied, installed and commissioned system. Mine is the Q450 with 90mm ducting 1. Design - £600 2. Supply - £6400 3. Commissioning - £500 4. Install - £2500

Lenleys, Roper Road, Canterbury.

Name some names, if you’d be so kind, as anyone in that area would be glad for the information I’m sure.

In our last self build in East Kent, we had Amtico LVT tiles laid in the bathroom and ensuite. The supplier in Canterbury used an Amtico recommended installer and the result was superb. This was several years ago now.

Which probably also requires permission from the water company.