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No, i just set the water temp

Cut the mesh and fix to the perforated profiles, then fix the profiles? I'd expect that to exist as a product already. Maybe in more insecty countries.

does your system control on flow or return temp tho?

How wide is your garage? Set up screeding rails either side and tamp to them. Can't go wrong and more level than a level thing. If mixing concrete yourself add deaerator.

You use both.

You’re welcome caveat; you’ll have one guy on the dapple bar, another at his side raking the concrete about, in his other hand the bar for the dumpy laser for getting TOC within a few mm, and unless it’s a small slab you need a backpack spray bottle loaded up with the sealant so you can spray sections after the dappling has been done. So many facets to this, plus watching the consistency of the mix(es) to adjust pace accordingly. In this weather, those with a brain or experience have cancelled all concrete pours. Just too hot atm.

Yes, you need to monitor temperature and relative humidity, then apply Td = (b × α(T, RH)) / (a − α(T, RH)) Where Td = Dew point temperature Td = dew point temperature T = actual air temperature (in °C) RH = relative humidity (in percent) a = 17.27 b = 237.7°C α(T, RH) = [(a × T) / (b + T)] + ln(RH / 100) Then use the Td result to adjust your UFH flow temperature up or down.

Houses are not an exact science. If we design them for every eventuality then the build cost would be to high. With my SE hat on we design to tolerate occasional short term elevated moisture content as you are experiencing. Any condensation will quickly dry out. If you are worried about dew points.. open some windows and doors, strip down to your underpants, fill the paddling pool and enjoy the warm weather.. it won't last that long.

Hi Rick. You make good points here. A common thing on BH is that folk split design into packages to try and get a handle on the build cost. But this is not the most efficient way to design or execute a design. Design needs to be holistic.. and that is the dilemma that Build Hubbers often face. You'll often see folk on BH discussing insulated raft concrete structural slabs (passive or otherwise) thickness and worrying about the slab say being 50mm thicker. It understandable as no one takes the time to explain the cost benefit of using a thicker concrete slab. As an SE and designer when considering a self build and the constraints about say getting a builder that can follow a drawing I often start by selecting say a 200 - 250mm slab. What I'm often doing here is to avoid local thickening of the slab, different levels of sub base, doing funny stuff with the DPC / possibly gas membranes etc where we may have line loads from internal load bearing walls. I always start with the simplest and stupid design option, even though this may seem counter intuitive. To get best thermal performance we want to see if we can have an even thickness of slab as it gives us the best chance on site of actually delivering what we have designed. Good thermal performance requires good workmanship and attention to detail also.. so let's not make the workmanship element too hard? Now if we opt for a slightly thicker concrete slab it lets the SE add rebar easily in the bottom of the slab to take the line and point loads from say internal load bearing walls. But if we then put the UFH pipes in the same bottom slab zone is impacts on the rebar bond strength and makes it hard to install the UFH pipes. It all gets really congested and that leads to you paying for something that is not likely to get delivered on site. That leads to disputes.. which we want to avoid.. self building should be fun! One reason I start out with the simple stupid option is that it lets the Client see and opt for it, yes there is some compromise.. but then we look at more complex stuff and compare costs as we have the simple option as a benchmark. But to finish your observation is correct.. ish. But I know from experience that having designed and installed UFH heating in my own houses for decades is that if you put the UFH pipes in the top of the slab the response time is less than if the UFH pipes are in the bottom. In some ways it's a moot point when you look at all the other practical plus points that go with buildability. The easier it is to build the less the cost. But being easy to build, if well thought out does not mean we need to compromise on thermal performance or quality for example.

Your second photo shows the top hinge set high. This would encourage me to inspect to see if the vertical part of the door frame (the jamb) is twisting. I can't see how wide a cavity you have but the chances are that the vertical part of the door frame is not properly fixed to the inner leaf of the wall above the hinge. Commonly folk think that the head of the frame stops the jambs from twisting.. the load from the hinge is eccentric to the jamb section. If you see how these are fixed together (the head to the jamb) by few screws this is not the case that the head of the frame prevents twisting via the joint. When you open the door look to see if the door jamb is twisting relative to the head. It's going to be hard to see. First thing to do is to keep the door shut. Get up on a ladder and put your finger over the joint. Get someone else to open the door and see if you can feel / see any movement in the joint between the jamb and the head. Use the previous principle to verify what you feel as you crack open the door.

Hi all I set my UFH temperature to 15 deg for cooling last heat wave and I monitored dew on the manifold and there was nothing. However when I turned it on Sunday for this hot period, I saw dew on my manifolds and the tiled floor felt very very slightly damp ish yesterday so I have upped the temp to 17 deg. This seemed ok until this evening when the manifolds had dew on them again albeit only very slightly. how/what is the best way to monitor my dew point within the house? is there anything I can integrate into my system retrospectively? any advice/information greatly appreciated!

I helped a mate out in his chip shop tonight. Careful placement of 3 fans kept the temperature down. Have known it to be 50°C for 4 hours. So not too bad.

Vent axia sending me a new pcb foc 😊 very kind of them

You’re right to be cautious, but bear in mind that not all polyurethane systems are equal. The one we’re using in this instance is water based, zero-VOC, no isocyanates… It’s very different to the polyurethane foams used in furniture or in 2k construction adhesives/foams. There are many resin systems I would never use in my house but this isn’t one of them I have zero concerns. I believe the VOCs given off by natural wood are typically those that give wood its distinctive smell, like the terpenes (I think!?) released by cedar. Not the same as isocyanates, toluene, acetaldehyde and the other crap that gases off from all manner of man-made materials. It’s weird though, how some dreadful VOCs are overlooked or even kind of desirable…. New car smell? Toluene, benzene, styrene, acetaldehyde… just part of a long list, all slowing killing you 🤷🏻‍♂️

Is it insulated? If so it should straddle the insulation where we that is, other than a set distance. If not insulated then any distance to suit how things look

How is everyone doing out there? SO hot today, managed to be on site 10 until about 5:30 but it was a very, very hot one. Working inside, no way we could have been doing anything outside.

Trying to decide how far to set the windows back in on our Pod build. Vertical timber cladding and I was contemplating about 80mm or so from external cladding. Not sure if there is a standard for this hence wondering what others did!

Usually hardboard on the inside of a caravan, or something similar perhaps thin ply etc. My thought is still leaning to a very slight leak or condensation within the structure that has led to a gradual build up. That's why I would be trying a dehumidifier and I mean a proper mains powered one not a tray or magic crystals. This weather is perfect for it, heat to drive the moisture out and the dehumidifier to remove it. Repeat you damp readings after a week of that running.

Some insects will get through any of these.

That's entirely personal taste. An ancient lead or zinc roof looks much the same.

If you can stop the liquid water coming in at metal laps, wndow joints etc then you are winning. The next stage is the dampness inside drying out. With windows open snd the summer temperatures it might be slow but will happen. That's unless any water is between 2 impermeable layers. Only then might some holes or stripping back be worthwhile. But it's mostly plasterboard or hardboard isn't it?

Rear elevation on our new place is planned with 2 modest sliding patio doors and a single standard door on the utility. Is there a way to have the sliding doors slightly open but secure? I know back in the day we used to put a stick in the bottom rail as a sort of dead lock. I know in oz they have secure fly screen doors in front of the glass sliders. I am just wondering how I can leave the doors slightly open to get some air in for night purging etc while still having it secure.

Our Starlink gen 2 died about 7am this morning we think. The LED on the router no longer lights up. It had been working since the thunder / lightning storm Monday night. Lad contacted them. "Yes, we can see a problem with your set up, we'll send you out a gen 3 kit, foc, under warranty, asap. Do whatever you want with the old kit". Can't fault the service.

Presumably the position of the water supply/stop tap is defined in the drawings and the builder's contract includes it in the work scope.

I am glad to hear of your recovery, and well done with picking up your build again. I think the state of the NHS is a worry to us all, and ever more so as we get older. Where it is all going awry seems impossible for anyone to understand or fix. I will say that the very elderly do seem to get a huge attention from the NHS. We find ourselves ferrying nearly 90's relatives to multiple appointments every single week. A neighbour is 102 now. I presume they did explain what the problem was and explain their decisions to keep sending you away again. I am interested to see how you cover your cavities as you go. Our builders had zero interest in ever covering anything that was built. Oh the happy times (not) we spent going up scaffolding to protect things. Tarpaulins, DPM rolls, buckets, mops, water pump, sand bags at 6am was bloody miserable.