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Yes, 'tightening' the envelope makes sense, but we cannot comment too much further on the walls (and floors) till we have more details. Are the walls cavity walls? Are they already insulated? If not, while a 'base case' U value of 1.5W/m2K is not quite as bad as a 225mm solid brick wall at 1.7, it is not exciting, when 50mm of insulation can cut heat loss through much of the walls to a third of that.
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@tetris Have you checked for ASHP grants in your area?
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Thank you. That's good to know and I'm not intending to make the house uninhabitable at any point, so I'm safe. I'll be skint until winter, so no heatpump for a while. Also, I've done some reading on IWI - a completely new topic to me, but I won't be keen on making any non-reversible changes unless necessary. I was thinking more about closing off drafts, installing better windows and improving attic insulation/closing gaps.
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Thanks. The Bosch looks like a slightly upsized workmate? Yeah, but the idea of paying somebody £100 to drill a few holes in MDF for me just doesn't resonate. I've heard a lot of good stories about MFT, but personally, I have 10 dog holes in my workbench and I've only used 5 in 15 years I've owned it. One of those 5 was only used 3 or 4 times. Keter looks interesting but on the small side? How would it handle chopping a 2.4m-long 2x4?
- Today
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Floor Feathering at Bifold Threshold or Not ?
Russell griffiths replied to Spinny's topic in General Flooring
Lay the floor flat and level, ramping it up at the door will look like dog shit, you will see it, you will notice it on the skirting around that reveal. 10-12mm step up is absolutely fine at that cill area. -
fighting the (expletive deleted)er badly today!
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Inline Fan Speed Controller (for MF100)
MortarThePoint replied to MortarThePoint's topic in Ventilation
Good suggestion and I have some of that sort elsewhere. There are a couple of locations I want to use inline fans though -
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Seems best to free the pipe regardless as not sure of the possible stress on the pipe when it is anchored but expands and contracts.
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You can actually buy work surfaces already drilled for 20mm dogs - I bought one as a spare for my Festool worktop. Relatively cheap and you can then add whatever legs you want. Alternatively, if you want to really up your game do a Google search for Paulk workbenches. You can get plans for them and make them as big/small/portable as you need.
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20260704_155551.mp4
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Think your missing something. One of the rules is the east and west face panels have to be matched. They are comparing essentially 4 systems. One thin film, to one inverter and also 2 inverters, same for Crystalline.
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Its just spinning forever. Tired to turn off the whole block from the street but kid you not the on street one is 4 feet deep and the standard T key can't reach it. When I did the wash basin had to cut it the 15mm pipe live and push a speed fit valve in. That one only oozed out a small amount, the pressure in this one is a lot, the tap fairly pushes out water. Hmmm
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Clockwise is loosen / open btw.
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Two Bosch workbenches. PWB 600. I've had them since 2016, been outside in all weather for almost every day since then . Cost £80 ( then) I'm going to replace them with the one @Nickfromwales suggests because the replacement cost of the Bosch is now £120 - at least Dick Turpin had the decency to wear a mask.
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Really interesting that, not what I expected. So essentially there are losses and the sunnier it is the greater they are, but even then it’s minimal and saves buying another inverter.
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Put a spanner on the hex nut to hold it still, and give it a slight tighten when you're done. The internals of this gate valve may have seized, as these don’t last forever and dislike being in one place forever and then being asked to move. If you’ve got a combi then you’re high pressure hot and cold, and gate valves should be replaced with lever 1/4 turn ball valves. Simple route is to switch off the stopcock to the whole house, drain down, cut the bath pipes and fit speed-fit isolators in , then put the water back on.
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Less traffic / (vigorous) mopping etc? 2 of mine in my bathroom are almost white again after 6 years. Added to the list of shit I’ll never get around to changing, even as a 2 min job. Life continues in the background.
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Not having much success... This i think turns off the bath tap. The stopcock under the kitchen turns off kitchen taps and feed to combi so also bath hot tap. BUT when I turn the red wheel the hex nut below also turns, afraid to keep turning it anti clockwise in case it pops off. I think hex nut is a retaining nut. Where am I going wrong here?
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Replace with new for £20 ?!?!?!?
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That has a much bigger head iirc, so stick with Monument.
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Floor Feathering at Bifold Threshold or Not ?
Nickfromwales replied to Spinny's topic in General Flooring
I always leave a small up-stand at the threshold, so you have somewhere to apply a sealant, as these will see a bit of wind driven rain if opened in our typical weather. You can’t really seal (successfully) without creating a slight internal angle for the sealant to reside. I also would defo not just feather right at the last couple of hundred mm, like a ramp, as you’ll see that when the sun’s on it; minimum 500-600mm. -
So I likely worded the question title wrongly - the above is what I was asking. On the face of it, it looks as though 3mm of feathering compound, decently feathered out to nothing over 150-200mm of floor width would be ok. I wasn't really asking - 'would you bother doing this?' I was asking -'if I do this is it likely to create any problems or make the floor look bad because of it ?' (Builders say 'I wouldn't bother sir' all the time. It is a personal choice. Tolerance on floor tiles is 1mm (or 2mm for wide grout), disability guidance appears to say no vertical upstand more than 5mm and threshold height of 15mm. My FIL shuffles along with a walking frame, a grandchild might catch it running out. It isn't vital, but is it doable and likely to work ok ?)
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Thats the thing. Zero coding you would think zero stress. But (expletive deleted) me controlling this sometimes..... absolute ball ache.
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Maybe Im missing something but the Fronious write up is comparing output of 2 E-W arrays each with different panels, mounted at differing inclinations and facing different directions?? Hard to see how you'd get a meaningful comparison of them wired to a single inverter VS 2 separate inverters??
