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Theae ate the cills, just basic stooled.

@Oz07 Thats what I was thinking but I wanted to see what others have done in case I'm missing something. The water cant get into the house because theres an open cavity gap.

As in 125 underneath the cill, up the back of it and then back over the top where the UPVC frame and cill sit over the cast stone? Any idea what the benefit of an external cill tray as opposed to just having 100mm DPC under the stone cill? My rear windows won't have stone cills , they'll be UPVC frame and cills direct onto the brick work with DPC or stepped tray underneath. It just feels like a stepped tray is going to prevent water escaping since theres no weep vents on a cill course where as a window lintel has weep vents every 450 horizontally.

The cast stone company won't provide details, they just produce them only and leave it up to the builders. I discussed two methods of installing cills I seen regularly and they said everyone has their own preference. This is what makes me unsure about the stepped DPC, because any water finding its way in from the outside into the cavity won't have anywhere to go, so it will just remain damp against the plastic tray. Why is a stepped tray needed when below the cill is open cavity, or a window head with cavity tray and weep vents? I have some expansion foam left from the brickwork, looks around 8 to 10mm thick but its knowing how far to set it down between the centre joint with them being in 2 parts and colour matching mortar pointed between them. I didn't know there was another option other than just using 85mm stub cill with a 70mm frame, The stone cill raised section is 40mm to bed the upvc cill onto with the frames fixed using window straps.

I thought of doing this it might limited the in coming air flow but could be better than nothing. What do the tiles or slates rest on, the over facia vent on the sub facia, and then the top of the capping board finishes in line with top of sub fascia?

As @ProDaveI'd guess these are cast concrete in stone effect. And that your chance of rebuilding 'as was' is tiny because there will be some damage. Even if new or reclaimed were available as substitutes then they would not match as batching or age will make them different colours or textures. So unless these are inherent to the house design, or you love them, you will need a much greater area replaced in new masonry. The repaired house must look as if it was original or the value will plummet. You may have to be very firm on this because insurance companies like collecting, not paying. The Loss Adjuster for your own insurer is likely to be helpful and professional on your behalf, especially as the other party will be paying. You need to see a formal proposal and they should have it approved by an independent professional and by building control. You'll get more help on here I'm sure. It is best to remain anonymous so don't post pictures of the whole house, but anything from outside showing the context (adjacent areas of wall) would help. Meanwhile, only if you want to answer, are you still living there or been moved out for safety and comfort?

I no longer buy Aldi or Lidl electric tools. They are low end diy and won't last. For a big, heavy job use only big names and not the entry ranges either. for diy and odd jobs, then the middle, established brands will suffice. I like all my Einhells but would be no good for a professional joiner, painter, gardener, whatever. If you don't mind coarseness then SF/TS/ B&Q/Wickes will be coarse and noisy but do it and keep doing it. My Worx circular saw has been a disappointment too. And I only buy branded accessories now, eg fixings and drill bits.

It appears to have horizontal beds and vertical joints similar to block size. could be plank faces I suppose, and the holes might be formwork tie holes rather than drainage. But that is heavy Engineering capital E. which is expensive and therefore less likely. @slystallone what is the purpose of the wall? eg supporting a cutout in a hillside between your land and a neighbour. do any other properties have similar? Is the wall vertical?

What do you mean by 'sort'? You can patch them in render or whatever is already on the wall, and/or paint the whole wall etc for appearance. But the vertical crack is probably structural, so releasing water pressure is the priority. Drill a few holes asap. The worst point for stress is about 1/3 up, but you can drill anywhere below that for immediate benefit. If you can drill even one hole, even only 12mm diameter or so, we will learn if the wall is solid, the thickness, whether water rushes out etc

Thanks for the replies. Really helpful.

when you remove a tree the demand for water is removed and clay may expand again. so bear that in mind. it is going to move again.

Anything that is 'not quite right' can be surprisingly expensive to adapt or to remedy. It is often easier and cheaper to remove an extension and start again, than to adapt an adaptation. the disruption in removing the yellow wall would be significant.

There's the answer 😀

Just ask the designer. At the same time, get them to amend the “fascia” vents label to “soffit” vents.

Why not poke your head through the loft hatch?

(expletive deleted)ing legend status and no skills required by my bollocks .

🙄😉

More pictures needed of that rear elevation from a side view or partial side view. Can you grab a satellite image of it and post that suitably anonamised?

Thanks for the reply. I’d completely agree except for the fact the red wall is where the pitched roof comes down, not the yellow. It’s not a flat roof out to the edge of the red roof (unlike the extension to the left and right which clearly have a flat roof). This is why it’s so confusing. There’s also a slight discolouration of the pitched roof when it reaches the yellow wall and stretches down to the red, so I’m not too sure what’s going on there. I feel fairly confident that we’ll be able to do what we want to do, but think a surveyor will need to take a good look and tell us what the damage will be. We’re complete novices to this though so have no idea what to expect. Any further thoughts are greatly appreciated but thanks again for your response so far.

Hey, little late to the party but I’m having the same issue. I worked out the little grub screw last year and managed to tighten the seat a little then, but now it needs replaced. My issue - how do I know what toilet seat to buy?

Make sure you have stable foundations before you start, because it’ll cost you sleepless nights, more money than you wanted to spend/have, more time than you thought possible and once you’ve finished you’ll wonder what’s the next challenge…

Yes, and re, pointing the original section at the same time the new section is pointed would at least get the pointing to match.

Thank you to all of you, especially those who have been in similar situations and it’s useful to see that others have had similar dilemmas in regard to multiple utilities sharing the same trench. Also really useful knowing what others have been charged and it shows there’s no real continuity between prices, in essence each utility throughout the country just charge what they want. It appears that my quotes so far seem to be around the ball park figure of many others that have had similar work so it has offered some reassurance but I’d rather have many £1000’s in my pocket than lining the pockets of these companies. thank you once again all of you.

A bit of common sense at last. Someone has finally woken up to the fact the required updates to the UK electricity grid just cannot happen as quick as needed, so they are now prioritising maximum return and scrapping what they are calling zombie projects. https://www.msn.com/en-gb/money/news/zombie-electricity-projects-in-britain-face-axe-to-ease-quicker-grid-connections/ar-AA1RUHYT?cvid=c5a99d221d7e4946a24f8787fdfa1199&ei=21 I would hope that means the scrapping to yet more relatively small wind farms here in favour of bigger ones in better locations (off shore) and likewise the something like 4 battery storage plants planned to occupy some of the fields not far from here.

How would you sort the cracks that have appeared,for example, under the outlet in the picture here