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Yes definitely a little action there. also did a magnet check on this T with no sticking to the pipe. is this likely the T section you said can cause problems (it’s just by the hot water tank)?

My friend brought round a really decent calibration microphone and we measured different scenarios against a baseline. In the 1.5khz range there is basically 0 attenuation. The door is actually rated at 33db in sound reduction. But even the difference between the most drastic sound reduction is well below this. I'll share some graphs shortly. Also as you knock along the skin of the door, some bits are completely dead and others sound completely hollow. I'll share some more info when I'm at my laptop.

I'd presume that in 50yrs time our oil and gas would be worth more than it is now. Nice little nest egg to be sitting on whilst everybody else burns their reserves.

No rush! Those days are long behind me

Bingo. We're getting somewhere. Did you hear the F&E tank ballcock allow some more water in to top up?

Thanks, it's been a slog, but finally there. Now I just have a backlog of customers who were waiting on the certification, but happy to chat once things have settled down a bit and I've got some capacity back.

Hello, I am going to make a doorway between my bathroom and bedroom, making it ensuite. I've been watching a few videos and reading about how to do it. It seems doable even for a DIYER. This post is looking for any information people can share about making a doorway. Points I've noted down, standard UK doorways are 826mm wide. Anyone go bigger? Lintel above the doorway is extra 100mm either side of the door. Would anyone go bigger? What thickness would be acceptable? Above the wall where the doors going, there is only one beam across it. A builder had a look at it and said there no structural issues/its not supporting anything about it. Any thoughts/information would be much appreciated. Thanks.

I agree with @Gus Potter ,what was causing the leak in the first place? - I guess a missing cavity tray over the lintel. I certainly wouldn't accept a quick re-paint, it's their fault letting this run on for two years, causing so much damage to the plaster finish. Get them to do the job properly.

I need to give you a shout the next time I'm heading down the M6, which should be in about 2 weeks time. It's been too long.

@saveasteading I think it was the disconnect between what was designed to be compliant on paper and what could well have been executed on site, sometimes in ignorance and occasionally to save a few pounds. Most of this being done out of sight between inspections. I would suggest that is why the requirement to photograph areas of construction was brought in. Hopefully builders are coming around to the idea that you just can't swap types of insulation/services etc without checking first. The OP's didn't.

Not that I can recall, I did something similar recently, it should be safety glass, so I would suggest laminated glass (toughened at least) and 6mm should be suffice.

Well that's a relief!

I have quite a large forest. I could cut that wood, haul it out of the forest, have it saw up into timber, stack it to season it and then use it for my building. I don't because 1. The wood I have is less suitible for general construction than the pressure treated softwood I can buy and more suitible for specialist use such as cladding 2. It is much more expensive for me to get a 4x2 this way than to buy one from a timber merchant 3. If I need a specialist wood, which I do from time to time, I have access to it even if it isn't available or is very expensive or backordered. It is the same with oil (and gas). It costs about $35 a barrel to extract oil from UK reserves but less than $10 a barrel in the Middle East.

So………. i managed to find this little beauty! Im wondering if that is an auto vent (that maybe ceased on the auto bit). opened it and there was gurgling and eventually water came out. fired up the boiler and it got going, much gurgling, but didn’t stop straight away like it had. But would go into anti cycling mode, but not turn off and get going again after it had cooled down again. Eventually some low heat to radiators, but not smooth. went up to the vent again to open and see if it would let air out (a little came out). trying hot water now and it is consistently working at a high temperature so that’s good! if I continue to struggle to get the hot water working properly am I right to think that going back to open the vent is a good idea to try and get rid of any more air? and is it likely an auto vent that has ceased to auto vent and that I could replace it with a functioning auto vent?

Is toughened glass the best option for, above your head glazing? It can shatter, sometimes dramatically, and I would have thought laminated would be better, but just my opinion, no expert knowledge.

Is it too late to incorporate it in to the thermal envelope and make it a proper useable loft? Ours is (MBC). Proper staircase going up to it, carpets etc. It is the loft, no windows but most definitely the loft but also a very useable part of the house and that’s where the Christmas decorations are. Along with lots of other stuff. It meant we had to have FD30 internal doors but it was worth that.

Where else do Christmas decorations go? It really depends on your storage requirements and opportunities. For the cost of the ladder and a few boards you remove the stuff from a more valuable space. £/m2 is very good. However well you do it, with seals and insulation, there will be some heat loss. If you do go for one, then I recommend a permanent ladder, either sliding or scissoring down, rather than a stepladder or standard one. Much safer.

I would have one, get an insulated and air tight one, with ladder - make a raised landing area above the level of the loose insulation and maybe a central pathway. You can never have enough storage space!

Do you really need access? What is there to access? Wiring? Plumbing? Ductwork? I am guessing none of the above, so that leaves 'the void'. Project yourself forwards 10, 20 or 30 years and think if the necessity will ever crop up. If you think it won't, don't have a hatch. Worst case scenario is that years hence you have to cut the plasterboard and get deluged with Warmcel. Not the worst deluge in the world.

I’d switch your PM inbox off sharpish, if I were you lol! Congrats, I’ll be in touch myself pretty damn soon if you’re up for some new projects to support me on. Last lot didn’t make grade….now gone ‘adios’. Shoot me a message when you get 5 and we can have a chat or maybe meet up. One’s on your doorstep.

Congratulations - a big worry off your plate. Perhaps more importantly, is the house (and are the bills) comfortable?

If you will never need access, I don't see why it would matter. How does the cellulose stay put when it is installed?

“These are not the droids you are looking for……” 🖖

Can we opt for no loft hatch? Foolish? Building regs? MBC have advised against it in the fink trusses as loose cellulose is blown over the ceiling chord. Any advice welcome. Thanks

I got an email from the assessor. It all passes. Yepeee.