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Scottishjohn has the right of it, find the cause before spending on linings. In the new house I would rule out a hidden leak before calling it condensation, damp behind wardrobes low on an external wall can be a slow plumbing leak or rainwater getting in and tracking along, not just poor air movement. A cheap pin moisture meter on the wall behind the wardrobe tells you a lot, if it reads wet in one patch while the rest is dry, that is not condensation. Worth checking while the damp issues are still being diagnosed anyway.

Oh, and as for orientation I searched the web for our nearest transmitter, used Google Earth to get the direction from house to transmitter and then used the compass on my smart phone to align it.

If you want unobtrusive, we’ve got one of these. but check it’ll work where you are. We generally get good DTV reception including the HD channels but sometimes the weather does seem to affect it for a few hours.

One stop shop. Read their excellent guides and unless your sat on a TV transmitter get a band specific aerial rather than wideband. Identify your TV transmitter and go from there. Usually easily enough to figure out, look where the neighbours aerials are pointing towards. Log periodic aerials are nice and compact IF suitable. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/knowledge/planning-your-install I'm in an extreme fringe area so have the biggest Band A Yagi they do.

Be cautious of biting off more than you can chew. I'm 3/4 through a stud dividing wall through the living room. It's only 3.5m long but I'm into my 3rd week. I'm a shift worker too so I imagine I have much more spare time than most although I do have small kids. I'm enjoying it but it's slow as hell. I got pretty much a full day done yesterday and more or less finished skimming both sides to a standard i'm happy with. I had to give 2hrs today to go to screwfix to get bits. Everything takes forever when you're not a pro with a van full of tools and spares, decades of experience and a full 8hr shift to throw at a task. Looking above at your list of things to achieve I'll take the 15 doors. What takes 20mins on you tube is actually about 3hrs in real life for a DIYer. Realistically you'd be doing well to do 3 a week. That's 5 weeks for doors alone. I would pretty much forget the cosmetic things to begin with. 1. Find the cash to throw at a few big things. A. Fabric of the building. Roof, gutters, pointing. B. Insulation, pumped cavity walls, 400mm in the attic. Get it done straight away. C. Wiring/plumbing if that's in the plan. D. Windows and doors. E. Some mechanical ventilation of some sort. 2. Let the dust settle a little with the kids (congrats on the imminent by the way). I sat and watched the LEGO movie 2 nights ago with my 3. Far more fun than messing with plasterboard and the little cliches grow up so fast. 3. Go room by room. Pick what room is to be done first. Probably a bathroom. A. Get a lock for the door and use it when you're not in there. B. Don't tackle anything else in the house until that is finished 4. Repeat until finished in 2040!

Any recommendations for an aerial - looking to fit it at the top of the gable at the rear of the house.

I had a load of i-joists delivered 10 days ago and the chippie and I put the joists up today and the quality of them is far from ideal. As I've never had any experience of i-joists before, I was sorting of expecting sections that didn't resemble traditional timber in terms of straightness or curvature. Was I naive in thinking that i-joists should be spot on straight and level along their length. The delta across one 5.5m is around 15mm and the timber used doesn't look like it's been sorted. When I ask the manufacturer about it today, he told me that the timber is pressed straight as part of the joist manufacturing process.

Flat roof to the ground floor.

Hi, Where exactly are the solar panels going to go? I can't see space for them anywhere if I am being honest. In an ideal world we all wish we could have everything done, but budget constraints alongside practical constraints make this difficult.

So it's nothing to do with actuators - it's a call for heat, because two things are happening the actuators are powered, and the relay in the controller for pump is being asked to close. So best guess is look at the thermostat, as it will be driving the demand

Well., yes... but 'informing' in this case means a Building Notice, which must be got in advance, and costs. See your LA website (or the Planning Portal) for details. I think my most recent Windows BN was about £200. Worth noting that if you are doing windows in conjunction with any other 'Notifiable' work you may get a discount on the lower-priced fee.

I mean it is sort of all related.... But to be back on track there could be some cuts to the current grant system that might, ultimately, be beneficial for HP uptake. Thigh the absolute best thing for HP uptake is to close the gap between gas and electric prices and maintain it. Maybe keep grants for people currently on all electric - especially a2a grants - as they will have to put in pipes and rads. Keep some level of grant for pip and LPG peeps. For everyone else a smaller grant (say £2.5k) to subsidise any difference between mains gas and electric HP heating costs. This removes the fear of your costs going up after fitting the HP and incentivises effective installs. It also gives a buffer of time to rectify any problems (eg swap out a rad or repipe a section) without incentivising overkill In fact you could just go the whole hog and only do the grant for every tech - a2a, a2w, hybrid even.

The reply mechanism insisted on inserting another copy of the video. Redundancy avoided. Punter wrote, Thanks! The other vids I've seen use mounting brackets other than KFK. Based upon equal spacing I calculated a list of offsets and checked for clearance at couplings. Then stretched out a long tape and marked off. The Lindab manual mentions the clearance is for thermal expansion. Yes, Robin C. makes it appear easy. Not so here. I wonder whether some factory runs make the gutter at the wide end of tolerance and brackets at the narrow end. I'm not convinced such a tight fit is necessary. In absence of a helpful gorilla or two might resort to ratchet straps. Thanks, ... P.

More EVs equal more industry turnover so maybe the current cheap rates are a loss leader??

The EV charger is integrated with a solaredge inverter which Predbat doesn't seem to list as compatible. The solis is just for the battery. Even if I could automate the charger, I'm not sure agile would work for us as the only time the car is routinely plugged in is during the night which when I looked recently at agile rates seemed to be significantly more than the Go or EDF overnight rates.

Actuator definitely opens and pump starts up, no other loops coming on at the same time

I don't know - make sure you get appropriate legal advice from ChatGPT, but I thought if it's like-for-like, it's just the case of taking a window out and putting a window in. The onus is on you to make sure the way you put it in complies with building regs while doing it. I might be wrong. The larger ones can be on the heavy side, true. White vs black/wood is a tough one. I much prefer the look of wood and black, but white ones reflect a lot more light. Mrs is all about maximising the light and I don't feel strongly enough about the better styling of non-white options. Easier to match windows if you ever need to replace just one or two later on.

Fitting it glued down is nice to have but a lot more time consuming to fit v. floating, as well as more expensive in materials. Should be good with UFH though.

How did you go about cutting them into the lower one? I have 150mm PIR already laid. My plan was to lay the supply/returns, then add the top layer of PIR around and over the pipes. It felt like it'd be easier than trying to carve channels in the already laid layer?

You didn't read what I wrote alongside that pic! LOL. Regarding the internal level changes, they are also outside, we have a tricky plot and an even trickier shaped building. They need to be inside really.

Is this thread another that will start talking about one subject and then be a big tangent from there? Heat pump grants, now quickly moved to something else.

I would do a reset and relearn on them. Assume the actuator itself doesn't actually call for heat? So maybe not wasting any energy. Are other loops switching on or off at the same time?

Use something like Predbat it can manage both agile and car charging and your home battery - it works with Solis. Have a look and see if your charger works with it. They can also do other smart tariff that aren't octopus. Can give you a referral code to get a month's use after a 2 week trial.

I thought you had elevation changes to contend within the house, thought it maybe easier routing overall outside Or just route them beside the UFH pipes, why bother insulating at all inside the heated environment, any heat loss is going into the house. In cooling mode atmospheric air is excluded, so no condensation to make either. Assume your hot water cylinder is in room M3.4? If so why are you bothering with an UFH loop in that room? It's always going to be warm, ours sits in an unheated loft space room is 6m x 4m it's always the warmest place in the house.

Having a bit of a problem since I turned the heating on again this year. Heatmiser thermostats and using through the hub but one of the zones which consists of two actuators is opening when there is no call for heat. They’re doing this several times during the day and I expect through the night too although I ain’t getting up during the night to check. They don’t stay open very long maybe 10 minutes or so but I’m obviously wasting fuel with it doing this, any idea what it could be?they are sales auto balancing actuators.