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I'd recommend a TCT percussion SDS drill vs diamond core, as that'll be 'soggy' and a total bastard to core drill multiple holes in. Not so bad if you can hire a diamond core drill with a hose pipe attachment to allow water to flush the hole whilst it's being drilled. May need both, if you hit a bit of rebar as the TCT SDS won't like that very much whereas the diamond will whizz through it.

One good thing about plenty of wind power is it's CO2 free. Our current CO2 intensity

Should is very different to are. Some or a lot think, new party in parliament, everything will change tomorrow. That maybe due to the wind density in parts of Scotland being among the highest anywhere. So more bang for your buck. But they are better located offshore, can be bigger, nothing in the way to disrupt laminar air flow for best output. High voltage DC to allow transport of the electric with very little losses.

I wish, but don't think. No party politics here, but we know a lot of people like to hear that everything is somebody else's fault and easily sorted.

Thanks for that, @DevilDamo. He's made many sloppy errors all over these drawings. I'll also ask for the 72.5mm insulated plaster board, which is the only insulation running along the length of the top edge of the (over 4m long) steel beam, to be doubled up (if not tripled or replaced with something better), as think this would be sucking heat out of the house all winter long, if it were left as it is. 72.5mm Kooltherm K118 is only 60mm of phenolic + 12.5mm plaster. I don't think 60mm insulation is enough here, is it? & my brief said, "hidden gutter". What he's drawn is something that pokes out half a mile from the roof edge & is very obviously a wide gutter.

I think the public should be smart enough to realise that nothing happens quickly. I think the real frustration is the changes in policies. It makes it impossible for any infrastructure planning. This may be a tactic that the denationalised companies use, do nothing until there is a crisis, then steamroller the government into getting their (the companies) way.

If you tell the public the whole, realistic story you don't get elected.

Exactly so. The former would cost £10k for a job half done. And is it your land? Holes £500. A heavy duty core drill with diamond core cutter can be hired for £150 or so. You could join your outlet pipes up to drain away tidily, or make it a natural water feature of moss, slime and ivy.

Self Building during the build... For 5 Days a week it is the best decision you made in your life, and for 2 days a week it is the worst decision. or Vice Versa, depending on the season

There is a whole shutdown sequence including shutting down the bms etc etc. My point being it's fairly easy as all the isolators (AC and DC) switches and buttons are in one place. If there is a loft isolator, before it can be turned the operator has to go down stairs do the various operations before coming back up. There is, unless the isolator is locked on, a fair chance someone will just turn the knob possibly under full load. Much less likely if the isolation requires opening a box (with a tool) and then using another tool to disconnect the MC4s

Just looking back at the original post on this thread the box shown is a combiner box, so takes two parallel strings and brings them into one. So you double the amps. So may not be suitable anyway. Your other question is are you have string fuses? If so have them in a DIN enclosure in loft or anywhere as an easy place to terminate the strings. Terminate the other side of fuse and take to the inverter.

I don't think it is really about having a disconnection point in the loft. I started this thread wondering if there was any point in having the SPD/Fuse/MCB box in my first post. I have concluded that it isn't as @Dillsue pointed out, what is the point of a fuse given the short circuit current of the panels? So I think I will stick with MC4s and buy a cheap crimper for the 8 terminations or so I will have to do. This seems the safest way to make the connections over any period of time, day or night when I come to it.

ALL inverters need the AC disconnect, prior DC. Big bangs likely in full sun if you don't. Likely to need a new isolator switch if your lucky, if your not, big volt DC isn't good for ones health.

The membrane should be fine not faulty. As you have sarking and counter battens there is no need for any droop. As @Nickfromwales says you could have laid the membrane flat on the sarking but no matter. I suspect the error is where the membrane meets the top of the Velux and the flashing / membrane has not been cut as shown and installed correctly.

Hi @slystallone, the wall shoulld have the soil side waterproofed with a perforated pipe running around the bottom “French drain” style and backfill with pea gravel, pebbles or similar to allow any water behind the wall to go down into the perforated pipe and then away around the side. idea is to take any water away to prevent the wall from being a Dam and being subjected to water pressure. It would be worth doing a bit of digging at the wall ends to check for any existing drainage that may have been blocked etc. failing that you are looking at water management which means a lot of digging or back to cutting holes in the wall and then collecting the water to take it away in visible pipes on your side,

We've been watching 'Yes Minister' and 'Yes Prime Minister' on iPlayer recently. It shows that off exactly. Just as brilliant the second time around.

Details of some of the template sensors This is the import windows defined - have only use morning and afternoon slots binary_sensor: - name: hp_import_window state: > {{ now().hour in [4,5,6] or now().hour in [13,14,15] }} Predicted trigger state sensor: - name: hp_predicted_trigger state: > {% set p = states('sensor.lounge_predicted_temperature_in_1_hour') | float(99) %} {% set setp = 20 %} {% if (p < setp - 0.3) and (is_state('binary_sensor.hp_import_window', 'on')) %} on {% else %} off {% endif %}

The end panels of each string will generally (but not always) come with factory MC4 connectors. The "tail" is not normally very long, depending on your positioning and roof construction you might have to join on to those outside on the roof. If you were desperate to have a "disconnection" point on the loft, might the solution be to have a fairly large enclosure with the DC cables coming in from the roof (having connected with the tails on the roof via MC4), through a gland and then terminate with MC4 connectors. Those then fit to mating connectors on thr DC cables running through the house (either in ducts or as wire armoured) to the inverter. That enclosure could then be closed or even locked and a warning label stuck on it. That would seem to be allowed by the table I posted. That would allow for the through house run to be isolated and use crimped, approved and maintainance free connections all around. Assuming your inverter has the correct DC isolator built in. My inverter has instructions to turn the inverter off (shutdown) before using the isolator ie the isolator and connectors should never be operated under load. If there is no current flowing there won't be an arc.

Can you give more details on what that drainage would look like behind the wall please?

Ya there is no movement

What kind of drainage would be behind the wall if it was done in the way you mention rather than through the wall?

Thanks. Lower risk is the important phrase there!

I think you're correct in your views on isolators but if you need a connection in the loft MC4s are the lower risk and in my limited experience far quicker to install and more reliable than screwed terminals, either in a JB or isolator. The only exception to the reliability of terminals would be to use cage clamp terminals where the terminal applies spring pressure continuously on the cable strands so they don't work loose over time. You can certainly get cage clamp terminals but I'm not sure if you can get DC isolators with cage clamp terminations.

So this is the small dash board on home assistant. I have a target temp set at 20 degC. The yaml code for the prediction automation, this just sends a notification to me if we are running to cool.in the house to see how it works. If connected to an output devise and house was likely to be too cold, ASHP would be started at a flow temp higher than the normal WC curve. alias: ASHP Batch Charge Based on Prediction and Slab Temp description: Batch-charge UFH during cheap windows using predicted + slab return history triggers: - at: "04:00:00" trigger: time - at: "13:00:00" trigger: time actions: - choose: - conditions: - condition: time after: "04:00:00" before: "07:00:00" - condition: or conditions: - condition: template value_template: | {{ predicted_min_4h < (setpoint - 0.35) }} - condition: template value_template: | {{ (return_now - return_min_4h) < -1.5 }} sequence: - action: notify.mobile_app_cph2449 data: message: "Batch heat started test " - delay: "03:00:00" - action: notify.mobile_app_cph2449 data: message: Batch charge finished test - conditions: - condition: time after: "13:00:00" before: "16:00:00" - condition: or conditions: - condition: template value_template: | {{ predicted_min_4h < (setpoint - 0.30) }} - condition: template value_template: | {{ (return_now - return_min_4h) < -1.5 }} sequence: - action: notify.mobile_app_cph2449 data: message: "Batch test " - delay: "03:00:00" - action: notify.mobile_app_cph2449 data: message: Batch charge finished test mode: single variables: setpoint: 20 predicted: "{{ states('sensor.lounge_predicted_temperature_in_1_hour') | float }}" predicted_min_4h: "{{ states('sensor.4h_min_predicted_lounge_temp') | float }}" return_now: "{{ states('sensor.emoncms_emoncms_org_heatmeter_returnt') | float }}" return_min_ 4h: "{{ states('sensor.4h_min_return_temp') | float }}"

We bought everything through them: design, kit, commissioning, and installed it ourselves. I am sure we could have done the design ourselves but we had too many other things going on. You would have to give Patrick Chester a call or email patrick@heatspaceandlight.com to see if they would just commission.