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I'm finding that even the ones that claim to be UV-resistant have fairly woolly specs. UV Resistance ? 'Long Term' it says for POWERLON® UV Façade. Yeah, what does that mean? Maybe someone who has gaps between their cladding has done the research?

I forgot I knew someone at the council. I messaged them and they've confirmed it doesn't apply to our borough. I'll still get something in writing though, thanks all

Jebus .... Recirculating loop on a PIR I imagine is the way to go.

No not used one, but I have a pump with a thermostat and a simple timer. Works fine. We have a manifold in the centre of the house, from UVC, then to each wet room. Secondary circulation is only to the ensuite which is furthest away from the cylinder. But with the secondary return off the shower is flowing hot by the time I have undressed a d ready to get in - 20m pipe run in 15mm.

No. But thinking about more deeply a good bit less. Tank is at east end nearest heat pump. Length of build from on end to the other 32m + 6m elevation between GF and FF. ad in a bit for not being able to make the most direct route. Call it 45m on the safe side. Nonetheless. Having to draw down on 45m pipework to have a shower, run the water to wash your hands is gonna waste a good lot of water and I imagine, in the case of the WHB, you’ve probably washed your hands before you get the hot water in the most extreme case. The kitchen and master bed are still 15 and 25m respectively!

I have some marine ply outside for 5 years, apart from discoloration no real issue. Mould and rot, can all be controlled by good ventilation. If you are off the ground I would add a waterproof layer below the wood as it will not get ventilation and will rot if it gets damp etc

Thanks Nick. Just checking I wasn't in the wrong

So my Shepherds hut build is stalling a little regarding the floor, I have sorted the mould problem on my plywood to be used on the floor but this has got me thinking how to I prevent further mould when the hut is built and out in the field. I am also concerned about rodents eg mice and rats being a problem entering the space from underneath and causing damage eating insulation and wood. Looking around on youtube I see a lot of Shepherd hut builds have a timber frame floor with plywood attached to the bottom and top of the frame, however my floor frame has only plywood on top with a some kingspan insulation underneath this as pictured. I could double the thickness of the insulation if needed as I have more kingspan boards. My plan is to use some weld mesh below the kingspan insulation to prevent the rodent problem, but what about mould problems further down the line regarding the floor? I am really worried (rightly or wrongly) about the plywood rotting as it will be quite exposed to the air with it being only a single sheet. I have painted the side facing down to help with this worry but should i put a damp proof barrier below the plywood as well? This would mean the layers of materials from nearest the ground upwards would be as follows: weld mesh, 2.5cm thick kingspan insulation board, damp proof barrier, plywwod and then the interior tongue and groove flooring (yet to be purchased). Does this seem ok? Or is the damp proof barrier not a good idea? I ask as would it trap moisture and cause the problem I am trying to prevent?

55m!? Is that a typo?

I bleached washed them after sanding/ wire brushing and then I used a proper mould killer as pictured. I used a mask when applying teh mould killer but not whikle sanding however I was standing next my open workshop door whilst sanding so I had access to fresh air but duly noted for the future re masks and sanding.

Tough for them. Tell them you’ll be using insulated closers and then they WILL be using brackets, as per the rest of the world! Stop asking them, and tell them. For hefty bifolds this is the standard way to get a solid fixing.

Thank you very much and others for kindly posting their mistakes and tips. Mine went in during September, it took half a day, and has been keeping my 25m2 garden office toasty through this winter. Looking at saving around 800-1000 kWh over the course of 12 months over resistive heating at this rate. The installation, vacuuming etc. was all easy enough after watching several hours of YouTube and reading these forums. I'm still paranoid about the flared joints, but that's only because I've read the horror stories and didn't have a torque spanner - although I've got 35 years experience in fixing up bikes/cars to have a good feel for tightness. The remote control however has gone, and Appliances Direct say that they can't provide a replacement, as it's obsolete. So they've offered me a partial refund to buy a compatible alternative - that doesn't have some of the functionality. I use the Tuya interface so not a major issue, but I do need the remote for the rest of the family when they use the office... The Tuya functionality is great, I've created three scenes to switch the heating function on early depending on the outside weather: <0, <5 and <10. Still playing around with this but <0 switches the heating on at 0500 which is enough bring it to 18c from an indoor temp of 7c by 0900

You can if everything is in course. I've done it myself before ontop of b&b with a spine wall. You just lay ontop of the membrane

It would need some thought regarding the internal sleeper walls as you obviously cannot run the membrane across the whole ground floor area, if you have internal sleeper walls.

Definitely not normal. I have only ever fitted one, and cannot remember how the top trim went on, but it was solid when we'd done it. I hate 'instruction pics' with no words. My brain just does not work that way!

Rip it all out seal and any gaps with clear CT1 as the waterproof element then dressed flush with a Fugi Cramer tool kit. Apply a cosmetic bead of Forever White. Have an open black bin bag at the ready and a couple of packs of the cheapest, unscented baby wipes. As you get too much silicone on the tool take it off with a baby wipes and drop into the bin bag.

Decided after all to stay simple, DHW by immersion, will have plenty of excess solar in summer that will not be generated due to export limits. So better to use it via immersion than loose it. So wiring is complete. Have retained the smart grid switching to allow flow temp boost if I need it for the summer house, have retained the open source monitor system (energy and performance monitoring). So wiring actually done by me, power cable, SG switching 2 core cable, which then connects to inside house via existing trenched SWA cable (already in place for existing HP), this connects to UFH controller, so I have remote (hardwired) manual temp over-ride for summer house temperature. Once outdoor unit in place it's just power cables and shielded comms cable. A some basic pipe work mods. Image below left to right, isolation switch wiring center and performing), electric meter for heat pump, heat meter for heat pump, Hiaer controller, below that, simple wiring center, then the main control/wiring center for Hiaer heat pump.

Recommendations for the silicone sealer I should have to hand by the dozen? And the current iteration of Snibbo ? Being more specific: I need to change the failed mastic to a shower tray. Something that stays white, doesn't get mouldy and stays sealed. If it can be easy to handle for this amateur then that's a big plus.

As others have said, too late if they do, as you have already started, but I had a look on their site too and they don't *seem* to have one. On the other hand probably quite a few LAs have websites which are unclear w.r.t. the CIL. I have only had experience of one, but that was not abundantly clear. Even that is fine if you can get to speak to a human (with the right knowledge) but it can be so hard actually to get to speak to someone...

I don't know now I've read another councils CIL as I can't find one for mine talks about relief. I was thinking this was retrospective relief and I could have sworn I'd seen something saying about 20%. I'm likely wrong though as I'm not experience with this. Looking online I don't think my council have a CIL but I will email their planning to confirm.

Just buy a box of 12 illbruck fm330 once you have used it you will never buy anything else. box quantity gets the price to below toolstation rubbish.

No. The pipe running from the UVC / hot manifold is direct to the outlet. The HRC pump is on the return, at the UVC, so has no effect on the delivered lpm. Sizing the pipework is critical for differing distances from the plant / UVC, and working out which outlets are needed most frequently etc, so needs a bit of thought, but a good design will reap excellent results. As stated above, even taking the return off at a point not immediately behind the outlet has significant penalties, and my thoughts are why the feck go to all this trouble, cost etc and still suffer any kind of compromises?

What do you mean late. if you have started building then it’s too late, you pay it all. exemption needed before work starts. unless your area doesn’t do cil. as far as I’m aware, is there a get out of jail card if you have started.

I know, hence a slight concern as I've already started 🙂 I think it's not capped at 20% if you apply for a exemption late, does anyone know what the value is to pay due to CIL (roughly appreciating it's different everywhere) and if the 20% is correct?