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Yes that's way ott for a house. That's a commercial floor spec. Having reread I agree in principle you work to SE1. But why did you engage a different one?

If the roots are still there then the ground hasn't stabilised because at some point the roots will rot away, no? I thought roots can take a few years to rot fully. It's true that the water demand from the tree will go quicker but I thought stability was about more than just water demand.

Me too, but language should be clearer and I was being flippant. But how does anyone know there was tree there last year or whether 2 or 10 years ago matters. In my opinion a normal year's weather cycle will likely allow the clay ground to come to stability.

With an angle grinder?

And the panel fit is better than the cars. (Sorry, could not resist)

Cut them down to length? That’s what I have had to do on some previous retrofits.

You can just buy plastic / nylon ‘feet’ with pins on the back which tap into the wood. Over engineered with dowels there! These kind of things are available:

Eh? Vs dynamic loading of vehicular traffic. An SE would have asked what items / weight / footprint / means of mechanical fixing or freestanding, and more, to consider that an issue.

Wow, that's impressive. I can't imagine any commercial kitchen fitting company doing that though. The fitters have put the sealed end of the panel against the floor and cut the top to size. Annoyingly I have holes in my LVT to fill now regardless. Will the worktop people (30mm quartz) glue or otherwise fix the worktop to the top of the panels ? Any tips for sliding machines in and out ? Pics attached including one of my nicely fitted fridge freezer (sadly the wrong handle style ended up on the order, delivered in a box, sat around for months, then installed and error spotted)

I read it as a tree has been removed but the roots are still there (maybe or maybe not the stump also)

Might not be bonkers for a workshop though, which is what I thought @flanagaj wants to use his garage for, especially if the use of the workshop isn't specified.

my men wanted floor temp to be ambient ,hence ufh turned off for good length of time and all measurements away from any direct sunlight checking dif sites it would seem 19c is a common temp recommended for wood flooring to be laid and flooring to be stored in same area before hand so its all same temp and humidity as you have found out dif types of screed need dif values --so you need to know exact type of screed

Maybe a quirk, as cooling is an optional extra with a Vaillant - not available without added costs

relative humidity of atmosphere is not what you need to look at for screed moisture value its the actual moisture content of the screed-- 3.5% is the number my men wanted and for that you need a different gauge something like this https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/tilemaster-hygrometer-moisture-tester?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23919565406&gbraid=0AAAAAD5wbSdybXyhrMCpmQKiYTNK-u56l&gclid=Cj0KCQjwteTUBhD4ARIsAEYjs3rsJPArS8lsGyeZX0CkqgHF3gRqZh60Hh8F21wG3JpJlPKcsu4iK5waAm64EALw_wcB UFH was turned on at a low level for 2 weeks and then off for 48hrs --then they checked the meter doing when floor is wetter means using an adhesive at twice the price --so i waited

Given SE1 didn’t specify them, then surely the house should be built according to their calcs. If a problem manifests down the line, then they are ultimately responsible?

Some good points there Nick. SE2 has zero interest that I’ll have to get a breaker out to break up the blockwork and cavity fill to install the wind posts.

Would need a (expletive deleted)ing app these days. You can't believe anything on the interweb though.

Somewhat amusingly, I have now ended up with the opposite problem. The offset connectors supplied with the mixer are 46mm long and it all now sticks out too far for the threads to get fully covered. The face of the brass BES extension is flush with the surface of tile and they have a short thread section so don't allow the offset connector all the way in. That leaves two options: PREFERRED: shorter offset connector of around 40mm or 35mm. https://www.amazon.co.uk/HanOaki-Connector-S-Adapter-Adjustable-140-160mm/dp/B0G2S1W4DQ/ deep covers like the image in the post just before this one. (NB: the Aliexpress link doesn't work anymore but a reverse image search on their site finds similar).

In Hungary and other Eastern European countries it is still common to find this type of pump in the street dispensing drinking water, so it would still not be a fullproof method to prevent accidental ingestion of waste water. In countries that apply common sense, they just have permanantly afixed signs for any non-potable water above the tap; they say, 'not drinking water'. Surely this is all that is required here too?

I don't think we are in any position to say that. More likely is that it is a result of switching Engineers. The continuity of logic may be broken and the reasonable assumptions of one, not picked up by the other. Going back to the first one could now be awkward... what if it becomes a dispute? I might be uncomfortable and be "too busy".

If I am doing panels I dowel them at the bottom with plastic washers as spacers to keep them just clear of the floor to prevent water soak up. 6mm stainless threaded rod works well inserted into holes in floor and underside of the panel. Invisible and nothing to snag appliances

I'm intrigued by the term " former tree". Presumably intending that there may once have been a tree there, not a fence or bench seat. Also the phrase " highly susceptible to degradation in water". I think that means it might get muddy if wet and disturbed. I prefer plain English, which would have concerned you much less. Are there any "current" trees within 25m? Is there a slope? Why are they so concerned about seepage? Is it a very wet area?

Yesterday someone reinstalled a sink unit & 2 appliance bay side panels for washing machine and dryer. The dividing panels were fixed to the wall at the back end. but still had some angle on them. So the someone put right angle brackets in at floor level between the floor and the panel. Last night I tried to put the washing machine in it's bay. It won't go in and out because the brackets stop the machine legs being pushed in and out. I had to remove them. Please can people advise what they see as the normal way to fix these dividing panels next to appliances ? (Worktop not in place and due to be templated next week.)

Or single sheet and you can insulate underneath when funds allow. Lighter panels by a long way.

Now thats nice. Both the building and the contents......................