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We're struggling to get an upstairs fan coil solution (which was the original plan and piped for) that we're comfortable with, but in the intervening period since we've moved in (heatwaves etc) we're wondering if we should just go for a stand alone air conditioning unit. Panasonic do a good looking r290 unit (solo) of the right spec, which looks straight forward enough to fit (annoying that it will be retro fit but there you go...) but 1. Is diy installation an reasonable option? and 2. One supplier claims that unless professionally installed the warranty is invalid. Accurate or likely to be part of the sales pitch? Views appreciated.

Apologies, looks like it could be a SFS hinge https://cug.sfs.com/content/files/cd-files/default.aspx?id=3ce7ecff-ece8-45b2-8eaa-27c3565d2657

@craig I checked the other side of the hinges and there aren't any side cover caps so it seems they aren't ERA

Going to post this as could be helpful to visitors in future. For a Basin I have 10mm Hep20 and the tap tails with 1/2” connector. Because I’m working upstairs and I cannot be bothered running down and back up to isolate at the manifold, I feel I could do with some local isolation to the basin to make life a little simpler. What to do? I used the shopping list below https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-stem-coupler-f-10mm-x-m-15mm/7947f https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-hx37-15ws-shut-off-valve-hot-cold-15mm/8473f https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-brass-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-1-2-/422fj

Almost, but I think the problem I’d then have would be, a shower hose with the 3/8 female connector wont fit through the chrome deck mount, 3/8 male no problems. This plumbing lark and all these connections, well you need to have a mind of a contortionist. It’s a Problem solving bonanza. Almost like this company who manufactured this mixer from has some kind of protectionist thing going on, it’s all odd sizes. Firstly, the valve didnt have a backnut (must be lost somewhere), tried 3/4” too small, 1” too big, took it to work so the inspection team could measure it up for me, turns out M30, 1.5 threads, thankfully a chap on the machine shop floor found a large nut and recut the threads for me.

Depends what you'll use garage for, but if the floor is reasonably flat swisstrax is an option worth considering. It worked out cheaper and easier than epoxy for us (in part because we didn't need to grind/prep the slab), and it looks fantastic too. There are a couple of caveats you have to weigh up with it though. - Doesn't need much cleaning because of how it's designed, but dust does accumulate underneath it. - You don't want to drop anything very small on the floor! Also water goes through it (which may or may not be a good thing) - Not that confortable walking in socks (there is another models which this isn't an issue with though, although it accumulate more dust due to flat surfaces). On the flip-side, you can pull it up to clean underneath it you want,change the design or replace damaged tiles, things don't bounce off it etc.

Just dot & dab them on, using flexible, extended set tile adhesive, as I did for a previous similar project. Forget shims / screws, you'll be there forever trying to get all those reveals and heads plumb / level / square etc.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-bush-1-2-x-3-8-/87443?tc=ET2&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19822796606&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPwQZBOItCyNOiPYIeLoUTMr7&gclid=CjwKCAjw48TUBhBREiwAK0GnQTocxspmCzoWiV6N86YMT8tqXHO1K3CyZz4fOaSskoRb_BOf3XF3zhoCqPEQAvD_BwE ?

Not now.

20 "snacks" in each packet?

I just done the same, two packets, so unhealthy they have a government warning on them.

@Square Feet congratulations - what a cracking view! I do hope it all goes well for you in the planning process. A small ‘admin’ tip I would recommend starting as early as possible is to log all your activity and communications. As much as this sounds tedious (which it is), I did ours a bit later in the day, back-dating it with all my emails in the many months of ‘quiet time’ (unresponsive council and sometimes paid professionals on my side). The reason for this was that much later, it became *exceptionally* useful when the council suddenly changed their mind and ultimately refused our first application. This log of activity allowed my planning consultant to easily and quickly reference the specific communications that were relevant (in our case the many broken promises of when a response or decision would be made) and we managed to weave it in to an element of our appeal. My point being that if you populates it as you go from the start it is sooooo much easier. Here’s a screenshot of the format I used (3rd column is ‘Interaction with Council’ - I added later when this became an issue and just put an ‘x’ in so I could filter to compile a shorter extract). Columns: A - numbered rows (in the table) for ease of reference in emails B - Month C - Date D - Interaction with Council E - Event F - Days Passed; Formula: =[@Date]-C$6 G - Weeks since; Formula: =([@Date]-C$6)/7 The splurg of black is just redaction of names / addresses. Rather than share a blank template I thought it would give an idea of how little / much I entered in the summary. Some emails I included an extracted quote if particularly relevant e.g. “I’m minded to recommend for approval”, before then refusing many months later. In this particular extract, the gap between the yellow highlighted lines showed the application being registered on 14 Oct, followed by zero responses from the assigned Planning Officer (PO), before an automated email reply on 8 Dec saying he was leaving the council. I really do hope the Scottish behaviours are better than ours! Best of luck.

Your rest bend will have the rubber seal on the inside with the stack as the male section going into it. Even if it did degrade you'll still be totally fine I'm sure. 👍🏻

Just a 4 poster? You need a 2 and a 4........................... However, warm it isnt. Still to many options and decisions. And not enough money

What is this talk of only using at weekends? Blasphemy! Probably just have a Willis heater and timer setup on a 12C setback temp, with a 15C working temp. Did I mention the proposed 4 post lift 🙂

Scolmore click mode is what I’ve put in also, put them A and C sockets in most rooms, next to bedside tables, next to lounge seating, and near media points, and a couple near some large windows just in case i may need to charge a blind or two. Works out to 2 or 3 per room mostly. Think I paid about £9 a pop, bought from someone like me who orders in bulk (too many for project) to get the price breaks then flogs the rest.

Want to replace a through deck shower hose to a longer one, valve body has one of these adapters with it, bought a replacement hose but the 3/8” male wont fit the narrow end of this adapter, the valve outlet is 1/2”. I guess I’m asking if there is such a thing as a 1/2” to 3/8” adapter, or is there another way?

I swerved their fee many years ago. Think it was them anyway. They found the product and told me it was exclusive, I checked and it wasn't.

https://www.electrical2go.co.uk/13a-2g-dp-switched-socket-with-dual-usb-c-65w-dual-fastcharge-antique-brass.html I’ve gone for these in select locations as they put out enough power to charge a laptop and phone at the same time.

There’s a material difference between something like a landscape visual assessment and structural engineering calcs. The former is a nonsensical piece of paper that needs to be produced to check a box on the planning application. Money down the drain. The latter is integral to the safety of the house and its inhabitants, and something I would gladly pay for an expert to do.

Hi Just been speaking to Buildstore who did my self build mortgage and they are offering me a mortgage with Halifax the same deal I can get online with them. Is it worth me paying the £495 fee they charge or just applying direct with the Halifax and saving the fee? thanks

Easy answer no. More difficult - for you to work out, what is CoP increase compared to normal heat pump cylinder. Then apply your tariff and charge periods. Calculate daily cost savings. Normal cylinder CoP 3, HG cylinder 4. But you only pay 13p per kWh. Your cylinder needs say 4kWh. Normal cylinder costs 17p to heat, HG costs 13p. You heat once per day, your £15 a year. If cylinder cost and £1000, that's a 66 year pay back. Pop in real numbers and away you go. Mine costs 52p using same maths, but can heat pump longer in cheap rate doing heating. You still take a decade or more to beat me on costs with a HG cylinder. Or just buy a direct UVC for £600. Heat via immersion. Then in cheap periods you heat house and heat DHW at the same time. Heat pump does it's thing, so does immersion. If you have solar as well heat during the day via solar.

With the full EV I only go into a petrol station now to buy unhealthy snacks...

60% of Britons support "net zero" to a greater or lesser degree Vs 25% who oppose it. That's a pretty big majority The interesting thing is the majority of people who oppose it think their view is the majority of the public's view rather than realising they are a minority. About 3/4 of the 25% who oppose net zero,so a bit under 20% of the public think their view is the majority view. Which explains a lot of the confidently wrong takes we see online.

Hi all,can anybody tell me if the heat geek super cyclinder is worth the premium price,as I can get a Gledhill cyclinder for half the cost,or does anybody recommend a DHW heat pump cyclinder. Thanks Glenn