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I've found a new circle of reclaim hell - they've requested 30 invoices, all the highest values ones, be uploaded in the claim portal. That would be fine, except the portal only allows a maximum of 20 to be uploaded...

Try submitting a lower demand requirement. We only have single phase here but when I enquired about our supply they offered me a 12KVA single phase supply at a good price. They said anything more they would have to upgrade the transformer. I accepted. So try say a 24KVA 3 phase supply as your requirement? The reality is I have the same cable and same 100A DNO fuse as every other house so could draw the full 23KVA. Nobody would even know.

@Pocster always very kindly provides standard sized ceiling tiles for scale

1.2m x 1m

How big is it, put a banana in it for scale.

Added asteroids and a surprisingly good attempt at space harrier . Now want the basic landscape to be shadow casting voxels

So our architect was extremely unhelpful on our self build; as soon as he had the full payment, he was entirely disinterested. Whenever a problem cropped up he didn't want to liaise with anyone or help with a solution; this was left to us and the builder. Builder doesn't understand why architect became basically combative. Suffice to say, we have not had him on the build for a long while. Architect never resigned as principal designer or alluded to resigning. He is on paper as our PD. So - now he has nothing to do with the build, who is the PD? Do we find a new architect and ask them to be PD? I've read the principal contractor becomes PD in a case like this; the builder is PC and has overseen that it's being built to design and has taken all the photos etc of every stage. However, I've also read on the Building Control site (Stroma) that we as the self builders can sign off as PD. Help. I don't want to break any rule or make a huge mistake. Any advice? There have been no changes from the main design, it's been built entirely to the correct spec etc. We may have a staircase tweak as the architect said stairs would be designed by stair company, and the stairs planned by the architect do not work to regs.

I'm not sure why you should have a more expensive quote to upgrade the existing transformer - that appears to be classic reinforcement, and I would have expected your costs to only cover your connection, not the transformer upgrade. The second scenario where you are the only person being supplied (single or three-phase), I would expect you to pick up the full cost as they are allowed to pass that on. It certainly feels like they're using the first quote, which they've presented as being more costly, to get you to accept one of the second quotes. The issue would be that the costs should be mostly with the DNO in the first quote, but they can transfer them all to you if you accept the second. Ask the DNO for an itemised breakdown of both approaches, making it clear which elements are extension assets, which reinforcement, and what is contestable versus non-contestable work. Ask them to tell you which section of their Connection Charging Methodology justifies each line.

I see. So, realistically, the barn route is off the table. Given my experience with a single connection, i cant see much alternative than to dig deep in the piggy bank. They will charge you for everything, because the rules allow them to do so. I think its all wrong, its a bit like going to get petrol, and being charged for the pump installation.. By all means challenge it, i suspect it is what it is. I didnt get anywhere at all. When challenged they just referred me to the appropiate documents that confirmed they could indeed charge me for every cost involved.

Perspex up . Magnetic holding it in place for now . Lightboxes visible due to light bleed at edges - frame will fix that

That looks like fairly normal oxidation for copper that has been sitting half full of standing water for a few years. If it holds your 10 bar test with no weeping at the joints, I would happily use it. Give it a good flush before it goes live though. Capped dead ends like that are exactly where stale water sits, and where the first slow leak shows up as a damp patch nobody notices.

Just thought to add, if you have no choice but to get a new supply then there is not much point optimizing what you ask for unless if affects the cost of new supply and I would guess that the DNO might not want to offer a smaller 3-phase transformer (even if they did that might not affect the cost by a huge amount). Still, may be worth exploring if there is an option for a smaller 3 phase transformer and what that impacts. Edit to add: but a downside of 3phase if having a small overall supply is that balancing the phases becomes harder, which may cause your electrician headaches.

Yes, I think you are right. I think bringing the double check valve inside the plant room and run 20 or 25mm pipe back through same conduit as mains inlet back outside to run underground to the garden. As this is only ever going to be used for a garden hose and jetwash connection then terminating with a hose connector and drain valve at an access chamber in the ground seems the most sensible. Probably a Carson Jumbo box with some insulation under the lid. I welcome any alternative suggestions....

I see why you have the problem using the barn. Can't offer any suggestions to that situation. Having the farmer supply you long term is fraught with difficulties. Unless you are building a 500m2 mansion then 12kw is way way too much for that. See other threads on here about heat pumps. A lot of 'very good' installers aren't very good at thinking about low energy homes and just do what they know (which is retrofit on old, inefficient, homes). Another thing to note is to ensure the calculations provided to the DNO are for the electricity actually used by the heatpump not it's nameplate 12kw (or more likely 6kw or less once you've done the calcs). A heat pump outputting 12kw won't consume more than 6kw unless something is very wrong. DNO would need to know it's soft-start/inverter driven too (though that should be assumed these days its good to check). Also worth considering starting current. If they are assuming you have a big 3 phase something or other than doesn't have soft start/inverter drive they will overprovision I'm sure you could get away with single phase if need be but personally I think 3 phase is the way to go if you can, but not necessarily worth a major cost uplift. 16A per phase is approx 3.7kw per phase. If you have 21 panels at 510W each, that's a total of 10.7kw. So if you have a 3phase supply you would be theoretically able to export your full solar generation without special permission from the DNO. On a single phase supply you'd have to apply for that export and be approved. Having said that if you are getting a new supply anyway I think the point is somewhat moot as they can add restrictions as part of agreeing to provide the new supply.

What @JohnMo says. I followed his comments on here and ditched the buffer tank and pumps and mixers and actuators to run open loops on WC. Saves a ton of money, is more efficient, and moves the only pump noise to outside. Local installers were useless and extortionate. They refused to consider an install without buffers and room thermostats and actuators. Our plumber did the pipework, spark did the electrics. Couldn't have been simpler. I spent more time insulating pipes that the plumber took to fit them. We don't get any grants in Northern Ireland so that was never a consideration. We have total heat demand of about 2.5KW. Our 5KW panasonic monobloc is hardly ticking over in this weather. I can't speak highly enough of our panasonic heat pump. Best toy I've bought in years. And cheap too. I agree other comments about fitting minimum 300 litre tank and not pre-plumbed. We have a load of solar PV and a hot water cyclinder costs less than a battery.

Thanks everyone for your replies, lets work through them. FarmerN - Yes barn is ours, the supply running to it is from the adjacent farm who originally owned the barn, we must now separate that supply. The transformer supplying the farm is 3 phase, 50kVA, I hoped it would be a case of upgrading to 100kVA and running a new cable for us. DNO has quoted for this, however that quote is even higher than a completely new pole and equipment for us, isn't making a lot of sense as existing pole is only about 20 metres away. BadgerBodger - Our contestables have been priced at less than 1k by DNO so very little wriggle room, the new post will be about 6 mtrs from where our Kiosk will be sited. Please point me in the right direction regarding threads on this, all advise welcome. -rick- Had the ASHP provisionally priced by well known, fairly local company and two others, all said around this figure. To be fair this was very early days, we hadn't finalised our method of insulation at that time. As you say this figure needs updating. Aim is to use approx 300mm Hemp-lime insulation with external insulation wrap. Aiming for near Passivhaus standard without the hassle of certification. Totally agree about the workshop, I did make it clear it was more hobby use. The push for 3 phase has been coming from me, primarily. I've spoken with 3 local electricians early on as DNO needed our diversified power requirements, they all shook there head. Two electricians said 3 phase was the way to go at this stage, given it's our only source of energy and the likely need for fast chargers etc in the future. One said single phase was adequate. I'm also looking to export back. DNO has said we can export 16amps per phase, doesn't mean a lot to me to be fair. Any advise? Roger440 - DNO has given reason as to why utilising existing pole nearby is more expensive. "The existing transformer within your neighbour’s land has a service cable connected to it, therefore will not allow for a new connection without further chargeable network augmentation".

There are a few gaps here. Assuming the OP's house was there first built in say 1926. Water pipe (lead or galvanised steel) runs to company main probably in the closest road. Between then and now a parcel of land gets detached and sold to a third party to build a second house. You would expect the seller of the land (presumably a previous owner of the OP's house) to reserve the right of access for their own services and that should be a matter of record. If so that should be recorded in the Land Registry entry for the newer house at least. Look there first for £6 (I think - but it's low). Ducting the existing pipe through any foundations ought to be a given. Secure it in the Party Wall Award but normally the BCO would (should) ask for this to be done anyway. Finally I agree with Russell above, talk to the neighbour and see whether you can negotiate laying a new plastic pipe to avoid their extension and out to the main. Most water companies will disconnect a lead supply pipe and connect a new plastic pipe for free if you bring the pipe to the termination (subject to application and their requirements as to depth etc), certainly Wessex did and United Utilities do.

I have a heat loss of 3.5kW so similar to this thread and the Cool Energy don't supply anything suitable currently, their small ASHP is too small, the next one up too big. But other scheme providers are available to go that route. Was happy to pay myself.

I'm not sure what you're saying? The government is deliberately driving up energy prices? It seems unlikely given ultra cheap energy would make alot of government's problems easier to solve. The analysis shows that the majority (90% for electricity) of the increase in price since 2020 is attributable to gas prices which the UK government can do absolutely nothing about.

As we've said before John, you can have your cake and eat it - Cool Energy are still doing their free heat pump offer which includes the MCS certification -> https://coolenergyshop.com/pages/free-heat-pump So they get the grant, you do the install and they do the MCS certification of the install.

Plaster dust is the main thing to be careful with, because it's slightly abrasive and goes a bit like cement once it gets wet. So don't go straight in with a wet cloth. Vacuum again with a soft brush attachment, paying attention to the drainage slots and the corners of the gaskets, then go over the frames with a dry microfibre cloth, lifting the dust off rather than rubbing it in. After that, use warm water with a drop of washing up liquid, a well wrung out microfibre, and a second cloth to dry as you go. Change the water often so you're not just moving grit around. Avoid scouring pads, solvents, anything with ammonia, and cream cleaners, as they can dull a matt or textured powder coat, and black shows every mark. If there's any plaster splatter, let it dry fully and ease it off with a plastic scraper or a fingernail, then wipe. Norrsken should have care guidance for the interior finish, so it's worth checking that so you don't affect the warranty. Before the spray painters start, make sure the frames are properly masked with low tack tape and film. Overspray on black frames is a real pain to get off.

That sounds very similar to my quote. Like you, 3 phase was near. In fact 50ft away on my own land. Unlike Badger Bodger, they point blank refused to budge. Theres lot of talk about them not being allowed to charge the end user for "upgrades that are required". As i quickly discovered, that statement was largely PR and government spin and only applies in certain very specific circumstances. The book of exemptions from that policy is considerable. They did confirm had there been 3 houses on the supply, not 2, it would have been just a minor cost. Book of excuses deployed succesfully there. I didnt go ahead as i have a limited 60a single phase supply any way. Its just means i need to stick with oil for some of my heating requirements and i cant use the 3 phase equipment i wanted to use. If the barn is yours, i cant see why you cant use that? Its probably on a commercial suply (ie much more expensive) but in my discussions with DNO, they were quite happy to change that to domestic if it was. This would be my line of attack in the first instance.

Nobody with half a brain would consider doing this without moving both the supply pipes to the outside of the footprint of the new extension. Pipe is cheap, get two new supplies run in, they will probably damage the existing pipe whilst digging anyway so better to move them. What does it say in your deeds, do you have a right of passage for this pipe or was it just a handshake type arrangement years ago. The time you talk to a solicitor you could have chucked a couple of hundred quid at the builder and got a new one put in.

Loads and loads of glass cleaner and a soft cloth.

Which is an entirely artificial construct by government. To deliberately drive up prices?