All Activity

I have stainless steel beam 100x100 installed as a U-frame to support a mono-pitched roof above a bay window, I am seeking advice around insulating the stainless steel. The stainless steel is sitting in a 100mm cavity (brick outside and dense blocks inside with PIR cavity insulation). The brick will go up half way the steel, then a window will be installed so part of the steel will be covered by the window frame. The build is in progress and I am seeking advice to what best approach to avoid any issues, what insulation is best used, and how. all thoughts are appreciated.

Hi Furnace, I am in a similar situation as yourself, where I have Square Hollow Steel (stainless steel) installed to support a mono pitch roof above a bay window, I wonder if you could give an update on how you got around insulating the steel in your situation. My stainless steel is sitting in a 100mm cavity (brick outside and dense blocks inside). The brick will go up half way, then a window will be installed so part of the steel will be covered by the window frame. The build is in progress and I am seeking advice.

Beautiful words, softly spoken.

I thought you'd never ask...............

I've asked this specific question over on the OVO forum: "Can two Indra Smart Pro chargers each be fitted with their own CT clamp on the same incoming meter tail, allowing independent load curtailment on a single-phase installation, or do the chargers require a dedicated multi-charger load-sharing configuration?

I very much doubt that will be an issue here at all, and I'd say go with the green option and stay off your neighbours property / asset. Perfectly simple and a 'good' solution, so KISS.

Does the manufacturer say these can talk to each other, and go 'master' and 'slave'? Eg your car for work at 06:30 MUST be charged, but SWMBO's can be at 50% and that'll do for 08:00 for any run to the shop (kinda thing).

What have they done here, and can you follow as original?

Quite a few on here have done basements by a 3rd party, and then plonked a TF atop, as most TF companies won't touch a basement (or anything sub / semi-subterranean) with a shitty stick. May be a lot simpler for you to go with ICF all the way, but with timber for posi joists / internal walls etc. One point of contact for responsibility / coordination / liability, reducing risk massively (and avoiding errors and the blame game).

Thanks for the Welcome! Potentially both Timberframe and ICF. The plot is sloping, so needs a lower ground floor which dug into the hilside and partially below ground level. Working assumption at the moment is a raft foundation, tanked ICF lower ground floor then timber frame 1st/2nd floor. Definitely would be interested to hear if anyone on the forum has experience of this, given it's less common.

Someone I follow built this tool to calculate the best Octopus tariff to be on. If you plug in how much you generate, how much you.use etc.... it will tell you the best tariff. Solar Tariff Optimiser https://share.google/j6ENJD1G8wSMKYbLl

OK officially it’s SEG, SMart Export Guarantee. But me being a red dwarf fan…

I need to replace two sealed units in wood frames. The windows have internal beads not external putty thank goodness. So would you recommend glazing tape or low modulus silicone to seal the glass into the frame? Both? This will be the external water seal.

I think the model number is i290 0106. 6kW R290 refrigerant. Your image is not one I know how to get from my system, though it would be incredibly useful. I wonder if we have different controllers. Re the installer, when I identified the problem with cooling (it wouldn’t unless I turned the target temp down lots) the distributor insisted the installer attended. So we had a phone call between the distributor’s tech guy on one end and me and the installer at the other. It just wasted the installer’s time altogether. But process is process. Sigh.

getting there

Hi and welcome. Glad you're not looking to bother with the PH cape and matching slippers, as you probably need to live 1.5x to get all that extra bother and cost back. Timberframe or ICF or other in mind?

It struggled with the sci fi picture. Why?; because it doesn't follow proper building design!. Staircases not going to all levels, cutting through floors, ending incorrectly, no steps etc etc. (expletive deleted) me I had to basically build not just a underground house but an underwater one to get it happy!.

Welcome. @Nickfromwales comes from down the coast in Wales.

I think Octopus likes to revert you to their standard tarrif on a regular basis unless you intervene.

The same rules apply. In efficient structural design concrete beams and slabs would be completely integrated, but these appear to have been designed for speed and tying in has been for location and nothing more. The NY building probably has concrete floors too, tied to the steel with studs.

Ronan point was built with sectional structural slabs of concrete for walls and floors. I understood the building in the OP was steel framed.

The number of times I argue this whether Claude ot Chat. What I want against what I get!. LOL! . BBC BASIC anyone?. Anyway I map out a mega spec and unlike Chat Claude will deliver something more inspiring!. Compute_cheap_to_pocster=TRUE; me thinks!

Maxa running cooling. Here is a shot of ours. With the cycling I sent the target down to 12.5. it made a big difference. Yes manifold got a little damp at the end of the cycle, but only for a few mins. Start from your 15 and lower it down a little at a time. Don't be surprised if the installer has little or no experience with UFH cooling. What size heat pump do you have?

Never heard of that before? BG and Octopus will be the same for export.

That's only applicable to ToU tariffs. If you want no extra charges use a flat rate tariff. ToU tariffs are an option, you make your choice and then live by it. Our battery takes us through the expensive periods. Never use grid energy unless in a cheap period - until I mess up things, which happens to everyone.