All Activity

Posi-joists with blown in cellulose or wood fibre? This is easy to do - insulation installed in a couple of days. The problem is finding a reliable & professional installer. Unfortunately, we didn't .

Just started piling here for our basement and trying to get barn 1 watertight-ish. Just ordered the cladding .

This is for filling the bits of our 50mm service cavity that don't have services in. I can find plenty of 40mm & 60mm offerings...

If you are that tight on fall, could you raise the building by 200mm? Hardly noticeable I would think.

The redesign going under the property actually shorted the runs considerably and allows much more flexible ratios for the falls but I’m not a drainage expert so was just more dubious with having the main fouls drains under the property rather then around it

we want to avoid any drainage works outside the boundary of the property due to it being a private estate and the costs/lenght of time taken to get permissions to dig the road

He isn't a designer and is used to seeing very poor workmanship where 1:80 flattens out in places to a still legitimate (presumably) 1:100. But do check the numbers. You can hold your ground on this, just build it well.

Exactly the sort of thing I had in mind, thanks. Unfortunately it has a working height of 4.5m, meaning platform of 2.7m and it isn't enough. We had best choose good light fittings to minimise the moving of scaffold tower in and out of the kitchen /lounge.

That man is a magician and illusionist, but I cropped out his cloak and wand. close your eyes, count to 10, say izzy wizzy, and the pigeon/bunny reverses.

Hi As the title says I am just about to start getting plans etc drawn up to have a timber framed garage at the front / side of property. I have a corner plot which is a end house. I would like a 8mt x 5mt garage to the front left of the property which I know will need planning permission as its in front of the house. There are other houses within a couple of miles that have had brick built garages in there front gardens so I am hoping that I shouldn't have problems but I am sure I will. There is a foul sewage also that runs from front to back of the property which I think I will need to get permission from Seven Trent to build over as the base will be very close. The neighbour had a double garage build a few years ago which is at the side but not in front of his house and I know the drain is fairly well buried, think he said about 3mt but could be wrong but he has all the paperwork that I can use he said. I have attached a couple of photo's the overhead google photo shows the red line where I want the garage. What are peoples thoughts on the possible outcome? Thanks Lee

Speaking of Visitors, if you have not yet seen 'Billy and Molly' it is a charming film on demand on 4 but only for a few more days I think. Search for Otter.

It’s not to scale the drainage and man holes positions just a rough sketch of location we have added the additional manholes at the front and back so if needs be it can be rodded externally

@saveasteading several options for lightweight lifts, know as V.P’s or vertical personnel lifts. Depends how much use it will get, but there used to be a thing called a SkyWinder - purely manual wind up and you assembled it in sections as you went higher. The stabilisers meant it could be light … anything without stabilisers has a bit of weight to it.

Hi thanks all for the reply. the number of Inspection chambers or manholes will most likely be reduced to 4 so ignore all the noise on the above drawing this was my rough sketch. it was redesigned due to being short on fall. We are on a private estate so to connect on to the road isn’t an option due to the cost and also the time it will take to get the various permissions. the fall worked fine with the bungalow but due to the property being larger we are pushing the connection to the boundary of the property which gives us about a 1:80 fall only just but the inspector has stated he would be much more comfortable with a 1:60 which is achievable by shortening the runs and going under the build

That's what I thought. Here is the exact wording: 'We need some more information before we can look at your claim, concerning your occupation of the property. Please provide a copy of the house and contents insurance documentation for the property...'

Just checked: my application on 19th June and got the following, obviously automated, message: "We have received your application. We will write to you within 2 weeks to tell you your claim reference number." That's 4 weeks ago now - I've heard nothing.

How did a white rabbit get up there ?

Never heard of that. It's not even mandatory to have house insurance.

I meant to say the grout is the same as the tile colours so have now edited it to make that clear. In the first room I mentioned, it's white grout on walls and grey grout on floor. The other room has grey grout all round

Are you certain you can't replace the old bungalow connection with something lower to get you the fall you need ? Presumably that could be possible providing the main public sewer is low enough. Also perhaps you could move the connection to the public sewer to connect lower down the slope/fall of the public sewer. Have you discussed this with your sewer utility company ? No doubt there would be cost involved but still probably small compared with your total budget and contingency. PS Have you made sure you have a good mains water connection ?

I used same colour as the grout.

One of the two tilers I used doesn't grout corners and leaves it to be siliconed with colour matched silicone. The other tiler didn't, but I am inclined to silicone the corners there too. When the walls are white tile & grout and the floor is grey tile & grout, what is the convention in terms of silicone colour for the joints between floor and walls? I assume I use the same colour silicone as I am using in the wall-wall joints, so white. In another bathroom, I have grey tile & grout on both walls and floor. That leaves me wondering about the joint between the shower tray and the walls (and floor too). Also up the shower cubicle edge strips (chrome).

Absolutely this drove us, (we had a previous room in roof (done by others) and the result was not great) and then we found it really easy to work with. Used the frame therm batts as others have described.

No dust as the rig had water suppression/lubrication. Our Isover 32 cored quite neatly. I think a product like the Knauf equivalent (which has a nicer feel, more like a wool) would probably pull and tangle a lot more (If I built again though I'd probably choose blown insulation as it's a bit of a battle getting brickies to do a really good job of installing insulation batts, particularly around anything awkward - cutting angles around trays etc)

Mineral wall has better sound insulation too so leads to a quieter house compared to PIR.