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We have purchased this with our cladding and they estimated 16 rolls, our cladding is vertical, I did the calcs and got a couple of rolls less but stuck with the estimate. We are not using their battening system as we don't have the depth. Instead I will make up some custom notched battens that create the air gap at the back, have the top slope and allow the use of the Kompefix on the front face.

Honestly that will be the least of your issues compared to the effort of cutting rigid insulation to retrofit tightly between old joists. Much easier to do something such as @JohnMo's suggestion. Pretty sure this will fall under building control renovation of a thermal element.

There are lots of pitfalls in such a technical roof system, it really is a mine-field. I have plenty to say on it, perhaps that's for a separate topic! But suffice to say, the guarantees, on Zinc at least, are far from what they're claimed to be.

My lasting opinion of Zinc as a roof topping is, regardless of the problems I have had, you WILL get oil-canning. So if you (or anyone reading this) are looking at Zinc and are someone who might be bothered by this, then I suggest you have you expectations ready for it. My roofs are not seen from the ground from any position other than from one window inside the building and from that window you get the best (worst?) view of how bad this can be. Aside from all the other problems, I would not be content with the view I'll get every time I go upstairs and look left out of the window. I absolutely would not even contemplate it for a vertical facade, but I'd drawn this line in the sand long before our problematic roof installation. I have landed on the opinion that I would much prefer a nicely installed single-ply roof than a flawed Zinc roof and by their nature, Zinc is not flawless ever in my view.

Most need detailed and workable drawings, as are not designers. Some mayy have links to manufacturers who may assist. And some who will not designers will at least advise on foreseeable issues. Who is going to decide the fundamental issue of what principles to work to? Metal, profiled metal, fibreglass/membrane or whatever?

Will need to bookmark this page- I have fitted a Geberit frame downstairs and thankfully managed not to balls it up! I have a Grohe frame to put in upstairs - bought it second hand so will need to hunt down the instructions online. There were really really useful videos for the Geberit frames which in no small measure allowed me as a numpty to fit it......I was hoping there would be similar for the Grohe. This has reminded me I will also need to source some extra parts eg the waste and water supply pipes will have been cut down to suit the previous install...can anyone recommend good source of spares?

Absolutely, like I said ChatGPT output isn’t 100%. Given the likely cost of these thermally isolated brackets and the overkill, it’s likely I’ll use a timber structure behind the cladding to space out the wall and also hold the insulation, which will be one layer horizontal, next layer vertical etc until the vertical cladding

>>> Client here has found a good metal roof installer, give me a shout if you want contact details. If they’re geographically suited to the OP, they’ll work for me too. Yes please.

I recall asking about the drawer depth because we want to keep dinner plates in there. A 270mm dinner plate just squeezes into the drawer depth, but remember thinking the drawers would take 300mm plates. It frustrates me when you pay a lot for something where efficient use of space is always critical and then the manufacturer just can't be bothered not to design out completely unnecessary wasted space. I come from the aerospace industry where people work with microns. iwould never expect that, but just chucking inches away seems bizarre, lazy, and rather poor. Yes they have a showroom, but likely not this depth of cabinet within it. I did challenge some holes in the oak look shelving unit that then have to have plastic covers, but got nowhere on that. They can make a cabinet width to a mm but insist on drilling unnecessary fixing holes in display shelves.

I would maintain the air gap, however draughty, unless this was seriously analysed as a whole. Ang PIR is OK. Celotex us a trade name which became the generic term. The name has been disappeared because of their part in Grenfell. J belive ig us now called sopratherm so you may want to bear that in mind. Not that kingspan is clean either. Recticel and Unilin appear to be blameless. I got good prices from 'Seconds' but slightly better from the local merchant. It is difficult to fit it snuggly. Either tight or with gaps. Ii you had 100mm ice say 50mm pir and 50mm rockwool bat. So i think you should try rockwool bat/slab before buying lots... it must fit snugly for performance and to stay put. Even 50mm would help a lot. I don't think you have to but it is wise.

Err don’t you need some horizontal batttens there somewhere?

Apologies @G and J, I do very much appreciate you providing the comment. I over reacted to the middle person getting out bit and I am frustrated that best laid plans get frustrated by all the trades nicking inches. The kitchen fitter has moved the island alleyway out to 910 saying he thinks that is best, the kitchen designer encouraged us to make the island 990 wide. I have been concerned about space on that side all long but everyone railroaded me. Our old dining room was 3.4m wide with a 450mm sideboard on one side, leaving 2950 and we had a 950 table and high back sloping chairs. We will have to chose the chair design very carefully - maybe fabric back. Any pics appreciated.

If I was doing it I would do something like this with mineral wool. Easier to work with than PIR, use a breather membrane and you end up with all the ventilation drafts eliminated also.

I found the Geberit instructions confusing initially. Helped watching some of their YouTube videos. Dare say Grohe have the same or if not then on their website.

I'd pull the table out 6" or so, the wall is going to take a battering otherwise

Haven't had my coffee yet but you asked for comments. If you then go on to criticise those comments because what you wanted was another answer it dosn't encourage bothering to respond.

Being (half) silly...3D print the profile in say PETG as short strips with fixing slots in. Then glue on. You'd just import the profile above, convert to an SVG file and extrude, a doddle. Roughly a full infill, (solid), 250mm strip would weigh 34g. You could print diagonal on the bed to get a longer length but for batch printing a few at a time you'd have to work with the 256x256 bed. Out of a kilo of filament then you'd get 30 strips. 30 x 256mm is nom 7.7m. A kilo roll of PETG filament is circa a tenner on Amazon. So about £1.30/m Half the price! You could have that again as the strips wouldn't need to be full infill. Just add in the cost of your time, electric and buying a printer! 😂

Kingspan K70 from memory. ordered it thro insulation4less

Could be more of a "self-destruct" button here lol, but give it a push anyways and see what happens; I am safely outside the blast radius

You "might suggest".....?!? Jesus. It's in the MI's so is a required standard, not bloody optional!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is an utterly shite installation, and without the clamps and the bends ALL secured with tek screws, it's dangerous. Who's going in that room? Are they expendable? If so, ignore my advice and plod on. :shakeshisheadindisbelief:

These are often standard drawer boxes from Blum etc. Have you ended up with things that don't fit? Did the supplier have a showroom or any information on the drawer depths?

Standard detail tbh. IKEA do more about utilising every last mm, literally, but apart from that this is the norm.

Looking at our narrower drawers, it is apparent that when closed the drawers finish 40mm short of the actual back of the cupboard. (This is on a 300 depth drawer.) So 40mm of space we cannot access or use, Not what I was expecting. Any comments ? Should I complain ?

Well for the middle person to get out past others that are seated, then I imagine you would need at least 900mm. In all honesty I have been to dinner at people's houses where you would need other(s) to move in order to get out. Ditto restaurants. The problem is (1) most uk houses are of limited size, so talking ideals is great if you are a multi-millionaire, live in the country, or somewhere where housing is cheap, but I rather think it very difficult to achieve for most people in the UK, and (2) the use case of people for dinner is occasional and rarely more than 6 or so people for us. Most of the time the table is serving no more than 4, so everyone can get out at 650. Is the use case of fat uncle albert sat in the middle needing the toilet that critical ? On the other side of the table is a walkway down the room, so permanently limiting that because fat uncle albert comes to dinner twice a year seems unjustified. The table can be moved to-and-fro of course but the lighting will be fixed. Wall gap 900 + table 900 + seated person on other side 500 is 2300 which then leaves a walkway of only 600, or 900 with no-one seated. Every trade robs space - the brickie stole 25mm, the plasterer 15mm, the kitchen fitter 15mm

Fix without them?