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Maybe that's the time to turn it on then - keep the vents in the areas you're not living in well bunged up and go for an initial approximate balancing to suit the areas you are living in.

I expect I will. So it's not really a waste of cable. Yes. 230v input and USB C. Both will charge the battery and operate the motor - they seem to have thought it through. This is indeed my fallback plan. But the idea of data is complelling. (See later comments from both of us) Done. No response as yet. I'm not planning to open up the motor because it won't tell me about the protocol. The instructions are clear for using the logical inputs, but don't do much else. It's as yet uncommitted, taken back to a central location so it can be purposed as needed. I don't like to be caught out if I can plan around it. Yes. I have that page of instructions on paper, so it's not new or helpful for thr RS485 issue. But thanks for posting it up here since it makes it clear which motors we are discussing. I want the RS485 because the motor does support tug to open/close and I suspect the motor will report the state over RS485 due to other research, and I want the BMS to know about the state centrally for temperature management. (I know it doesn't count to anything in building control land.) Unfortunately not. And the postman didn't bring me the RS485 thingy today so I can't play without taking the solar data logger apart. Guess I will have to fix one of the pair of Lotus cluttering up the garage instead.

Found this in the attachment but seems strange that this subject unit does not have its own pump?

Just wonder if there is a actual interlock via a flowswitch, etc, it just says the unit can stop, page 23, I think they can trip if the flow/return dT is too low, some alarm is surely flagged if the unit refuses to start. Could be something else stopping this unit from starting. There should really be a ABV between the flow&return anyway.

That does indeed look very handy. Wonder if I can hire one. Although, right now, mine would all look very blue. Bathroom aside! As few rooms are getting the heat they should. I've been using this, Bosch infrared thermometer, to monitor tempertature changes on the manifold, pump, flooring etc.

I'm using a type with a concrete top mould on which I don't think can rotate

OK, so masonry terminated flat, wall-plate added also flat, then Posi essentially top-chord hung on the outer wall-plate (with some angled wedges) and fixed down. Where is the inner leaf brought up to? Built around the Posis or only to the underside if the Posis? Cavity closed? Sorry for all the questions.

@MortarThePoint You may need the 2x 45° option if there’s a sudden change in levels. Also, I’m sure most of these square pots drop into a round socket, so you can rotate the pot and the grille stays square to the house.

Get one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOPDON-TC001-Plus-Resolution-Maintenance/dp/B0D46K5CMK/?th=1 Worth the investment imo. Pics from our UFH on very low during the build.

I've had two composite doors, one was slam shut and no choice in the matter (previous house). My current Internorm door has a toggle that lets you set it to either which is really nice. I deleted a door in my build phase and the lift and slide from internorm has no way to open from outside when fully closed so I've only 1 way in and out & am hesitant about getting locked out as there's no plan b except burrowing in somewhere!

So living in the house for the past month and a bit has allowed me to ease off the pressure a bit and start snagging / finishing some of the details. I have underfloor heating under the main bathroom tiles but it wasn't working well. Barely noticeable at 40oC !! Turns out the electrician wired in both temperature sensors and it was adding the values together so after Schluter tech support suggested I check - I removed one pair of wires, lo and behold I have a warm floor. Really nice experience but uses about 2.5kW for an hours worth of heat. One advantage is it warms the room and as I'm still waiting on the bathroom door this keeps it more comfortable than it had been first thing in the morning. I've set a schedule using the app and the controller connects it online via wifi. Working well now! Alongside this I've a load of sensors and smart lights, switches and sockets around the house. Now I'm in a position to setup Home Assistant for the first time and figure out what I want it to do. I setup an initial dashboard to organise the myriad of sensors and entities and allow me easier monitoring and control. Work in progress but have a look at the setup below! I've still to figure out Daikin integration (The app works fine, just nice to have more data / energy usage in one place) and get my Sonos text alerts to work but I'm making progress. I have older Hikvision cameras but the integration for that isn't working yet. I wanted to use human detection to trigger security lights front and rear but for now I'm using the smart doorbell out front and might use a contact sensor on the rear lift and slide door to rig something up - otherwise newer cameras might make things easier but I'm not giving up yet! There's a lot you can do with Home Assistant besides automating lights - one of the rewards of building your own house just as you like it!! A lot of the newer appliances come with some type of smart integration but sometimes you don't want them all spying on you so just a smart socket that tells you when power usage drops to zero for more than 5 minutes is enough to warn you that the washing / drying cycle is finished in a notification message you can choose and hear. I've a couple of sockets that can do exactly this! I've start selling off some of the left over items as I don't need them anymore and have had some success. I can see more easily what I'll need and use now than I did before. Some of my appliances survived storage some didn't but I've ended up replacing everything at this point and registered 5 year warranties where available to maximize returns. One less headache! Over Christmas the plan is to finish the living room so I can sell the scaffolding tower and move the last of my furniture in. I put the sheeting on the rear oriel window and bought some cushions / edging and a blanket so it's suitable for reading a book / relaxing in. The bottom edge is already getting frayed so I'll need to source something tougher to withstand punishment. Next project is finishing the internal window at the landing that overlooks the living room. Got a price of €900 for the glazing - I'm blocking off the right side but will have a small window on the left in addition to the big main window. Again, there's a seat up there to perch on with a book and relax in and a double socket at your feet to plug a charge / light into etc. I've only 2 areas left to plasterboard, the vaulted ceiling in the living area and the landing/stairwell. Hope to give these a good shot over Xmas and then settle on filling, sanding, priming and painting in January. That camera faces the kitchen in the picture above to let me monitor any pots from boiling over when I cook! Also if I'm away and the fire alarm goes off and I get a notification I can check the internal cameras for the likely course so see if it's just smoke or fire! The only mystery now is a noise from somewhere at 4:45am every morning that wakes me up. My EV car is parked outside my bedroom window so I suspect that's the source but it only lasts 3 seconds so I might have to set my alarm early and record it but it's just SO early when you have work the next day.....

Congrats. You need the patience of a saint, no?

Still looking into this and having done a little more research, to try and understand how everything works, i'm wondering if the Automatic Bypass valve is causing the problem? The new Boiler is an, Ideal Logic+ Combi C30. The old one was Worcester CDi. The new boiler has a built in ABV, where as (if i'm right) the old one didn't, so needed the external one. That is currently set to 0.5. Could the ABV be robbing the ufh of the heat it needs to warm large/multiple rooms? It will comfortably warm my 3m x 3m bathroom but if I add another room the manifold & pump cool down.

Ok that makes sense. I think I’ll try dog leg the stack so it comes up in the bathroom using 2 x 45° bends. Just enough offset to get through a 140mm block wall and come up on the otherside. It’s doesn’t look too upsetting. My en-suite w/c is 2.8m from the stack so I can just get the fall within my joist webs. Do you think if I wanted to move my w/c to where the basin Is in the en-suite. Could I do a stub stack in the corner where the w/c is currently located and gain the fall above floor level in boxing? Because of where the joist webs are my 110mm pipe is about 200mm from the wall. A swept bend might be needed if I was to do the stub stack option. I see in the regs that it should be avoided where possible but can be used if large radius bends or 2x45° are used. Would be using an aav.

Here's the manual from Samsung - the serial number doesn't completely tie up, but it seems close enough altough Samsung's website suggests it's a split unit but the manual says mono. The unit and phe resistance curves are on page 25. I can't find a minimum flow rate as the specs just have a - in the tables for this. Not entirely helpful. But that's generally the feedback I've heard about Samsung and their heat pumps in the UK. EHS_MONO_ODU_IM_EN_DB68-05387A-07_181129.pdf

Maybe for the house AND outbuildings. You can easily run both from a single heat pump.

Dust in the duct etc. I had a Dyson once lasted an hour sucking up building dust (motor failed). It's super fine and gets everywhere. A Dyson is small change compared to MVHR. Another dehumidifier?

Agree, also, the Wilo Yonos Pico is the RR in pump control because it's head (and output) in CP mode can be incrementally changed in 0.1M steps to give almost infinite control, assuming of course that it can achieve the ASHP minimum requirement of 17.0LPM. @SimonD, where did you get this dP of 0.5M at 17LPM from and is 17LPM written in stone or can it be changed?, if it can, and could be reduced to say 14.5LPM to get the ASHP away, even as a temporary fix just now before any plumbing changes, then maybe worth looking at.

I was going to get it switched on ASAP to help dry the house out, what are the problems with switching it on early? I thought it was in the paperwork with the MVHR unit that I read the suggestion to run it on full fan to help the house dry out. The house is slowly getting sealed up, I'm not getting much air movement and there is a lot of moisture inside. I did open the windows at the weekend as the weather was good and that seemed to help a lot but i didn't want to do that when it feels wetter outside than it does in. There are other things I would rather be working on thatn the MVHR so I can leave it until I have finished creating dust, but that is a long way off and we will be living in some parts before I have finished.

Yes ,I think I might try that.

I am not sure, but would think, from engineered properties, that the polymers form longer chains, do not need pigments, UV stabilisers, are more flexible and use water as part of the curing, as opposed to just drying. When water based paints dry, the water molecules evaporate, leaving just the base matrix. That matrix, in the case of water resistant coatings, shrinks and replaces the positions that were occupied by water molecules with voids that are smaller than water molecules. That is what makes them water resistant, water cannot get in. How chemists actually create this is a total mystery as they have about 20 words, which they just rearrange into compound nouns, to make things that are incomprehensible.

Thanks for this. Initially was thinking / hoping this could be a temporary solution as is.. but overlooked the need for second pump and volumiser. Building the house 2026, starting groundworks in Feb. It's about 25 metres or so across a largely paved old walled garden from this outbuilding to the house (2 bedroom single storey, near passivhaus timber frame). Maybe cheap ASHP is the answer for the outbuidings as you suggest.

The 4kW Grant unit modulates down to 1.25kW at outdoor temp of 12C and water temp of 30. My own 6.5kW unit has shown itself to tick along quite happily at 1.2kW even though the spec sheet says 2.4kW. As @JohnMo says add a 50l volumiser and this could work. The other option if you decide not to go down the BUS grant route is an exhaust air heat pump like this: https://www.nibe.eu/en-gb/products/heat-pumps/exhaust-air-heat-pumps/s735

A HiSense 4.4kW will come down to 1.8kW at 7 degs, so add a 50L volumiser, you will cycle about once per hour. £2100 delivered, plus you can claim the vat back on a new build. So a little over £1800, volumiser £100 to 150. A heat pump cylinder sized at 45L for each bedroom plus 45L, around £1200. MCS as @Nickfromwales says, will want a standard design, so radiators in each room etc. And still charge an arm and leg. If you size you fan coils correctly your flow.temp will never exceed 35 degs for heating, so you should get a scop of 4.5 or better.

Biggest difference I see is the magic elves (well, the big fan anyway) tirelessly directing their sealant into the worst leaks in any hard to reach spaces you've missed and can't easaily get back to. I hope not to need the product but I'll probably have a pre-plasterboard blower test and then assess. If I'd known this I might have gone straight to them and saved doing a parge coat!