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Im constantly amazed how builders seen unable to grasp the concept of insulation. If air is free to circulate both sides of the insulation, clearly it cant be any use as insulation anymore. I appreciate that things can get technical quite quickly with regards moisture, condensation etc, but surely, not having the same air both sides of insulation should be understandable by even the dumbest person?

To me this makes perfect sense. But the way the OP's roof is done seems common practice, ie, just leave a void. Why? I just dont get it.

This might help if anyone else searching for stainless steel screws for chestnut cladding / decking etc in what I found to be a significant minefield with massive cost and clearly quality differentials! A good few hours down the pan! Eventually found these and placed order today - proof will be in the pudding so no comments on quality etc as yet but feeling quietly confident. So not a recommendation - let's hope it will be................ You can also speak with a normal human who knows what they are talking about! https://www.endurastainless.com/stainless-woodscrews/decking-screws---countersunk-stainless-steel---torx-drive/decking-screw-countersunk-torx-tx-drive-stainless-steel-a4-marine-grade-316 also very interesting: https://www.fastenerusa.com/blog/tell-screw-stainless-steel?srsltid=AfmBOoogzyXC-QceFYTVxyxBdILjVskzH34yHohaOgi9x-y49Rw3NaQG

Whats the insurance or safety implications of the 240v lead being run through your site? Could you use one of the big daddy transformers instead or does that not improve the amount of power taken down 1 110v lead?

Thanks all. This is all very helpful. I did some electrical engineering at school, just as an extra subject. My teacher couldn't believe how bad I was at it when i was good with other sorts of engineering. so thanks for the patience. We are supervising so can ensure that a reel is unwound. The reel, has the advantage of easy relocation, either out of the way, or to suit room arrangements as they get built. We can brief the workers too and label the ends with instructions. The point about checking the spec is good, as some give very few details. I can see that a non-reel somehow seems more credible. and could be fastened to a wall: but I'm amazed that I haven't found any ready-made. On this basis we should locate the outlet fairly centrally, then an adjacent transformer and no other sockets. shortest distances for 110 cables from there. this is £3/m cur to any length, so a reel of 25m at either £50 or £30 seems surprising. we have plenty of transformers, I think through often needing them in a hurry then back to store after use. @ProDave what type of plugs would be best for your way? Or domestic one ended , round the other? CEE seems to be the term, and they look somehow more credible to the amateur (which our demanding, but seemingly corect) joiners are in this regard. are they straightforward to connect. I've done armoured and surely anything is easy compared to that? what does one do with the multiple L and N cables? Just join them in as if it was a 3 core cable? Id like to buy the cable in blue as it is clear what it is and easier to see, but can't find any. can I just use 2 of this and join them? OR How about this for a quick fix. I buy 2 of the reels shown above. Thence they have lots of capacity and can be set in different spots. or 3, with one extending off the other to the other end of the building? Call 'silly' if it is so!

My worry would be it's 2.5mm2 copper coated aluminium. Still probably better than the 1.25mm2 copper ones mentioned earlier, but nowhere near 2.5mm2 copper.

It was just an example. To be honest, I don't know how they can sell a 25m extension cable with 2.5mm2 cores for that price. Costs more than that to buy just the cable! But heh, it's a UK company, and has both CE and UKCA marking. Might just be a bargain! (NOTE they also sell it as a kit with a 5kVA 110V transformer, so specifically for the purpose @saveasteading is looking to us it)

In all cases the system was up and running normally, the last two events were 27th October and 18th November so about 3 weeks apart, the first was back in the summer. Whatever is releasing the pressure must re-set itself as you can top up and get everything working again. Currently working normally since the 18th. No obvious water anywhere. It doesn't take much filling from the loop to get the pressure back up. I've got a horrible feeling this is going to be like one of those odd noises in a car that the mechanic can never find.....

That one makes my spidey senses tingle. As in is it a dodgy Chinesium one? It's also available at close to half the price on polybound.co.uk (the claimed manufacturer - who seem to specialise in resin bound surfaces). https://polybound.co.uk/product/tools-equipment/25m-blue-extension-cable-reel/

Something like this; 2.5mm2 3-core with 4 sockets https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Blue-Extension-Lead-Cable/dp/B0FVZH1JQD

If you make your own it also has the possible advantage that it will not be left on a reel. Did anyone mention ensuring the reel is fully unwound? A hefty draw on a part-wound ext'n lead shows what a good resistor it makes... (Egg-sucking and grandmothers not intended!)

I make my own extension cables when I can because commercial manufacturers are under cost pressures to use as skinny a wire as they can get away with.

Really, the ones I picked up are 2.5mm, sorry @saveasteading I just opened the link but didn’t check details. You do need 2.5mm2 minimum on the cable at 25m long

The cable used in those is listed as 1.25mm2 - you should go for something much heavier duty. Minimum 2.5mm2 considering the distance and use.

Conductor area 1.25mm No I would not buy that. My long 250V extension lead is self made using 5 core 2.5mm with 2 cores in parallel for both L and N. I doubt you will find a pre made lead with 2.5mm cable, read the small print. Buy a drum of 3 core 2.5mm flex and make your own lead to the length you want with no joins and a good quality plug and socket each end.

Yes, these are decent quality, couple of those so you are running parallel supplies, transformer on each and you are sorted.

If you feel like it you can always get one done and keep the results to yourself. But I wouldn't. Tell the Architect you will investigate and carry on.

Second (primary) pump. Willis heaters do hot water by convection, when in a hot water cylinder, but for a heating arrangement where there are variables I employ the primary pump. This is to ensure flow across the heater is sufficient to avoid early kettling or any kettling at all.

is it as simple as this, or 2 of these\? https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-ldct2513bq-4-xd-13a-4-gang-25m-cable-reel-240v/54615

Thanks. I didn't know HD 240 existed. I now see them advertised at all sorts of amperages if that's a word. should I be looking for one that will reach the middle of the building? what amps might be a sensible spec? I see so far 13, 16 and 32A. will these be 3 pin or the round socket sort? in the building what will we have? a single 110V transformer or a multi socket one, or as many singles as are wanted? is blue a preferred colour to indicate what the cable is? i see them in blue or black and even orange. if i am understanding. In either the garage or canteen we plug a 240V domestic type plug into a normal socket. perhaps with a conveter from domestic plug to round. We then take that cable to the barn, perhaps well above ground to avoid accidents. Blue or orange would be safer than black. in the barn it is dry now, or soon will be, so we simply have a 240V socket into which we plug a transformer. thereafter the guys just plug in what they want. Perhaps @markc 's idea too. so the 240V for most purposes but retain the trailing separate 110V to a few lights, in case of a local trip.

I shall take some pictures this evening and come back with some extra info as well. It will be a flat ceiling, not vaulted, and there will be no access to the roof space once the ceilings are boarded

That's the issue then. what would be worst case if there was damage at that location? so you get it sorted in that unlikely evet. what could cause damage there? is there heavy traffic? I'd accept the exclusion and if by some tiny chance anyone has a problem in 5 years then you do the concrete thing. same cost much delayed.

+1 keep 110v runs as short as possible. 2.5mm or even 4mm arctic cable for the 240v flexible extension to the transformer or even add another dedicated to the lights … saves going dark when they trip the transformer

You may be far better to get it excluded and get the policy in place.

I wonder does it just let the pressure down to zero, or does it dump a substantial quantity of water beyond that and so need a lot to refill? Might be a clue in how much air you have to let out afterwards. A pressure relief valve when tripped might not re-set and continue to let by. There have been quite a few reports of the PRVs in the outdoor unit being faulty and replaced under warranty, you might not notice that as IIRC the outlet goes into the condensate tray and thence to yr soakaway, that is where I would start looking. Unlikely IMO, in that even if your system is divided into circuits the return pipework will go to a common point so everything will be at the same static pressure irrespective of which valves are open.