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10mm should be fine for everything other than baths and showers. 15mm to the kitchen sink if you want to recreate a waterpark. 10mm is fine otherwise in my experience

Botus thanks for your comments, it is possible that the height of the storm drain connection could be made low enough at the property boundary to facilitate a connection to the gulley but it would involve trenching 20+ metres to a depth of more than 2M by the time I reached the property boundary, which is doable but would be a huge amount of work as it would need to avoid all of the other services running in that area, hence my idea to use a pump to simply lift the water that meter so it can use the existing storm drain connection. Regarding the DPM, that is exactly what I am doing, there shouldn’t be any ground water from the surrounding soil moving into the sunken area, so the only water I need to worry about in my mind is that which falls directly in the area I am concerned with.

Alan thanks for your comments, the rainfall data I referenced above is the same as was used when the rain water harvesting tank was sized so I am relatively happy that the amount of water is in the right ball park, SUDS is being taken care of via the attenuation pond that the storm drain feeds in to. My challenge so far has been finding a larger sump that has an in built water capture lid like the one I linked - all of the others seem to require either a separate gulley or channel drain. The vertical lift for the pump is going to be sub 1M in reality. The Tsurumi pumps were my first option as I have used one of them with a chamber to clear water from a patio outside the entrance to a basement flat but they just seem overkill when even the smallest ones can do 12,000 litres per hour at zero lift and are capable of 12M lift. the pump I am looking at using is rated at 3,000 L/hr at 1M and 5,000 L/hr on the flat and is suitable for a max head of 3M so seems like a good compromise whilst only using a 1inch pipe.

Count to 2, have a cuppa or go to pub while other person continues drilling the other 19 holes. Then if surface mounted the plasterer say what numbty put all this pipes here

Then I’ve been very successfully “stretching” myself for the last couple of decades. 1). Drill hole. 2). Insert pipe through hole. 3). See 1. 4). Count to 21 and stop. 🤷‍♂️🙃

Still have the same amount of manifold outlets, without the faff of punching loads of holes through between floors. Two holes job done. If you 21 pipes between the upper and lower floor you already have way too much complexity. So saying 21 pipes between floors is not complex, seems a stretch

I’m on my way. I can do it for £5999, on mates rates. Can’t you just find a decent local plumber (“heating engineer……”) to put pipes from A-B with you supplying? It’s ridiculously simple work, easier than putting a combi boiler in.

No. That's my point - there really isn't much extra oil/gas left to get out. To a fair degree the argument whether or not to extract the last few % of the Uk's oil and gas is moot from a energy security standpoint. It will make no difference to our energy security if we continue on the projected path (green) or issue new licences (red and orange) What will make a huge difference to our energy security will be how much energy we can produce and use in the UK. So to that end we need to Reduce demand (insulation and public transport) electrifiy heating (heat pumps) Electrify transport (EVs) Increace local electricity production (winds, solar, nuclear, storage etc) All of those are "Net Zero" policies.

There are times when folk cant see the woods for the trees. Just use copper off the manifolds, then a hep2o connector to concert back to plastic once through the fire wall. ”Simples!”

Too much kit spread all over the house. Radial methodology is supposed to do away with such complication.

It’s a reasonable argument to make, but as above it’s not the government’s decision as whether we can or can’t. There’s still oil there, we don’t know how much or little although we can have a pretty good guess. Let them try and extract it if they want. It’s greener than importing it from abroad. To ban any new issuing of licenses is woke BS!!! Makes no sense.

Just choose a wireless thermostat that switches between cool and heat easily - I say wireless then you can move it to where it gives the best representative house temperature. But the Panasonic controller has one built-in (pretty sure), just use this. It should do cool and heat out the box.

Indeed, mad. Still males makes me laugh. We will continue to consume fossil fuels for a while yet. The point is not that we shouldn't produce it in this country it's that we can't. Again, looking at the graphs in the previous post, our production is falling and the difference between our current course and drilling like lunatics is basically sod all.

Fully agree Yes, but I would caveat that with the point it cuts both ways. Certain political parties have made statements to the effect that they "will end net zero madness" and basically halt all renewable projects. We see this with trump who is literally paying companies not to install renewable projects despite causing a surge in fossil fuel prices! In the UK those same parties tend to follow up their "no to renewables" stance with the assurance that the UK will make up for that loss in generation by extracting more oil. In effect saying "we don't need renewables we can become a fully fossil fueled economy *by drilling for more oil*". This is often followed up with the promise that the UK can have lower bills and greater energy security by going this route. This is ideological BS. Yes, there are many ways to skin a cat, but the key point is that UK fossil fuel production is fast declining from only 50% of consumption and there is very little we can do about it. The difference between folloing our current "Net zero" and "drill baby drill" is so tiny as to be irrelevant. It's the difference between the green but and the orange&red bits. For gas in particular it's pretty much a rounding error.

I had hoped to not have a wiring centre, but as you can tell I don't really know what I'm doing 😕 Exactly this. The heat pump costs £2,599 ex VAT. How much can they charge to install this? My guess is minimum 6k for a days work. Maybe more. Maybe I'm being too cynical. Although I've told the plumber I want WC and no buffer so we may never hear back from the installer 😂 I'll update here after I get the quote....

Thank you, Our builder did the floor, they arent a specialist flooring/tiling team. I spoke with them and they also said they were going to fix it with fix-a-floor. I am worried about the long terms as I think the movement is being caused by dead space around the edges. I was curious to know if anyone had used anything except fix-a-floor. If my builder's doesn't have any good suggestions or fobs me off, I think I want to use a 2 part self levelling screed like Ardex NA through a mortar gun and a thin nozzle to get between the tiles. Is this a really bad idea?

I would simplify. Why not do 2 up and 2 downstairs (1 each hot and cold). Then a single 15mm between each manifold. To make it simple, we do one 15mm to each wet room from each manifold, then branch from there in the wet room.

Woke is pretty much an evolution of the term 'political correctness' imo. It doesn't really mean what it meant 5 or 10 years ago imo. I think we all understand that. An example, a view that some people have is that we should completely stop using oil immediately. Mad if you ask me, but not 'woke'. Other people think we should carry on consuming oil, but we should not produce it in this country. This is PC/woke BS imo. Makes no sense whatsoever to anyone but the ideologically captured.

Ah. I took that first point to refer to a single, isolated pipe (although I realise "isolated" isn't defined). Perhaps I was being distracted by tge "not more than 4" in the second bullet. Just concerned that effectively with the manifolds I'll end up with a slot at least pipe diameter (15mm) x 325mm, plus clearance, which may not be acceptable to BC.

There is so much talked about H&S that defies logic. e.g I was working in my own capacity fixing an outside light on a large property. Because of the height, I had my ladder tied becuase it made me feel safe. At the same time a firm was doing repairs elsewhere on the building. One guy wearing a high viz vest decided he needed to have words with me. He started with asking why I had tied my ladder, like it was any of his business. Then he asked why I was not wearing a hard had. When I pointed out there was no work above me so nothing likely to land on my head, but YOU re not wearing a hard hat and I might drop a screwdriver on you, he walked off in huff.

The Hi Viz is for visibility, obviously. No need to be wearing one if no plant is knocking about

We used an external permissive to start stop the ASHP. So similar to what you propose. For me knowing what's going on is important, so I have used a wiring centre for the UFH, this is equipped with room sensors, not thermostats. The signal from the wiring centre goes directly to ASHP, not to UFH actuators etc. The whole system can also be moved between heat and cool via a volt free signal. So open circuit is heating mode closed is cooling mode. ASHP using the same signal, so use a single switch to move both the UFH wiring centre and ASHP between the two modes. We have in effect two heated areas the house and summer house. After quite a bit of experimentation figured I could run as a single zone and either the summer house or the house could call for heat, and both got heated together. The house floor acting as a buffer. Running for an hour or so to heat up the summer house has zero effect the house. Have run pure WC and if you can do that, I would, but we have found using the wiring centre and it's sensors, giving the heat pump permission to run, meant we ran better and could keep away from min modulation longer and regularly get CoP of 5+. I would try to run as a single zone, decrease the upstairs output with reduced loop flow where needed. You are going to running very low temps, our curve starts at 26 degs at 10 Deg oat and goes to a massive 28 at -5 degs. So likely hood of overheating is zero. I would make sure price wise you are not being screwed over So MCS uplift and plenty with a profit to make

We have to replace some rotten floor joists and floorboards in a downstairs room on a renovation. If I am reading correctly, if you take up all the floorboards you have to install insulation in that room? The joists are 100mm depth on sleeper walls, the distance between the bottom of the joist and the concrete oversite is 120mm. What would be a good option for PIR install and at what thickness, balancing cost and performance? I have read multiple conflicting measurements, some say leave at least 150mm between underside of PIR and concrete, so would be limited to 70mm if correct?

i use Sketchup Pro and Chat GPT to render them as photo realistic. Works really well if your sketchup is decent to start with. There is a learning curve but i do it every day for work so its easy for myself. A few people at work couldnt get into it but its perfectly usable. It is license based though so it would cost ya. Well i gutted the room last night, literally nothing in it. Tried all of the above iterations and ended up back to my original idea. A square shower just doesnt work, its too close to the door when you enter. If the toilet is on the same wall as the sink you are sat literally face to face with a shower panel, so that wont work either. Having the window where it is and the fact it faces out to the street (corner plot) leaves my options very limited. The only thing that felt at least slightly right was the bog on the external wall at the back, a 1000x1000 pentagon shower (as it removes the front corner which is the problem) and the sink down this end.

Me too, but for a future pre built sips product, they talk about using small bricks pillars for the foundations