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Does aerobarrier negate need for airtightness detailing?
Post and beam replied to SBMS's topic in Ventilation
The chimney was taped. To be fair the inglenook brickwork, while very good was a potential candidate. But if it were at fault i would see the tiny wispy white traces of the goop. There is none of that on any of the inglenook. -
Competitive Aluminium Clad Timber Window Suppliers
craig replied to iSelfBuild's topic in Windows & Glazing
If you're going direct, you'll find it hard to beat a price from going direct. Do you mind me asking who the Polish supplier is? If you want, drop me a message and I'll see if I can help. -
More like this sort of thing with the short bit nailed to the stud in the gable at mid-point in gable and the long section nailed to the adjacent rafters and a noggin set between them (overall length of strap is 1 or 1.2m) to suit. I guess that the strap will be to the underside of the rafter/noggin rather than the top as shown, since the stud will have stopped short of the top edge of the rafter.
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We have a petrol leaf blower. It can also suck and act like a big vacuum cleaner sucking leaves up into a bag. That function is handy for clearing out gutters and drains, but not of much use for general leaf clearing as it would be soon overwhelmed.
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Price isn't necessarily (within reason) a major consideration. Could you point me towards a brand please?
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Around 65mm. Picture for context.
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For a little comparison, my place is deep retrofit with EWI and new timberframe 1st floor with 3g glazing. We had a heat loss of 3.8kW at -6 with a floor area of 176sqm. We have natural ventilation. If yours is really going to be 12kW, you could also consider 2 smaller units in cascade to provide the modulation you need for the shoulder months, in particular when you have a great deal of solar gain. -
That may be too much expectation. Usually assume a few degrees - but usually enough to take the edge off excess heat to provide more comfort.
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I'm guessing it's these kinds of straps? Best to go back to the SE and confirm locations as it doesn't seem entirely clear.
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Front downpipes tend to be a pain as often there's insufficient depth of garden to get a soakaway far enough from the building. I am anti putting any more rainwater through an existing combined sewer but sometimes there simply isn't another solution. However, before that, as mentioned above can't you utilise the soft dig through the flower bed to a traditional soakaway or agree a filtration solution using perforated pipe within that bed if the area of roof isn't too big?
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I don't think that's a good suggestion as all that does is end up increasing the load on the other rooms that are heated (as internal heat losses increase and can do so significantly) and can result in higher flow temps from the heatpump as well as reduction of system volume which can also cause cycling and defrost problems. When you're designing a system for a deep retrofit like this one, there's no excuse not to design and install a system that can supply 100% of heat requirements, which is also required by MCS.
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Thank you. Yeah that’s my view. It’s the restraint straps I was unsure of. The uplift/hurricane ties I’d go with as it’s a bit windy here and why not. The he’s mentioned twisted restraint straps - I’m assuming from gable end to joists… at 3/4 points along joists and mid height of verge. My head just thinks about the rafters spreading and pushing out. They’re birdsmouthed and nailed to purlin and to wall plate. Nailed to joists. And I’ve got 400c so plenty of them. Apart from the rafter and CJ spec everything else has been overkill and that’s what the BCO said. I really wasn’t sure on where exactly the twisted restraint straps would go.
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Wooden subfloor with 4 inch joists and rockwool
Super_Paulie replied to Rocket Ron's topic in Heat Insulation
a few clout nails underneath will stop that happening. Maybe Gapotape? big money for the quantity involved though. Whole thing seems like a big challenge whatever way you look at it. -
I have a similar but worse situation where the grille is set 100mm below concrete so fills with leaves. It is an unpleasant chore to remove them. So I have made a chicken wire cage to hold the leaves back a bit more. It's not pretty. But I have also bought a small, battery powered leaf blower and am pleased with it. It makes it quick, and not unpleasant, to shift these leaves and others nearby. It is very battery hungry but OK for a 10 minute job even with wet leaves.
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What width is exposed?
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I would suggest that headroom is less important for such a large house. Say we have a very cold snap and your 12kw heatpump isn't able to keep the entire house at 21C (or whatever the design conditions are) Just turn down a few of the unused rooms to 15C for that period. If you have a 2 bed flat and all rooms in use all the time you don't have that ability. But for such a big house the spare rooms can be hibernated for a bit.- 12 replies
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- mvhr
- ashp and dhw
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The South facing rooms are where we will spend most of our time, this is the one plan area, I work from home so the Study is also important to me and bedrooms for night comfort, which also includes 2 loft rooms. I'm not expecting AC level cooling, but enough to keep the house comfortable in the peak summer months, so if it can deliver a delta of say 10c -15c I would be exceptionally happy. -
Personally, I would go with what the SE suggests, even if it seems over kill. We have uplift restraint straps throughout the house and they take a few seconds to fit with a metal connector nailer and the traps themselves are cheap as chips by the box full.
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Wood Bark, and just a little nominative determinism
SteamyTea replied to SteamyTea's topic in Boffin's Corner
Huh? Down here in the rocky far west. -
Wow. 3.5kW at -9, could you share your build fabric details and what you did to achieve this, this sounds extremely high performance.
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+1 for the comments so far. Just a couple of questions for you: - what is your rationale for using fan coils in the locations you're proposing? - how much cooling are you expecting the ASHP system to deliver? A lot of people over estimate this.
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Hot dip galvanised? If installed maybe not. Best coating by far is Epoxy, not cheap, but great.
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This sort of lintel. With hindsight we should have raised the lintel course enough to make room for render boards - we didn't, so we want to make the best possible job of painting the lintel.
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That isn't good enough for a heat pump, you need an accurate assessment. My house is 192m² all vaulted ceilings (225m² including plant room) my heat loss is 3.5kW at -9. Just about to remove a 6kW heat pump and install a 4kW one. Not the correct way to go about heat pumps. Not really correct for has boilers either. -
Rather than metal straps we use to use (for a range of timber buildings) 50 x 50 sticks fixed to the face of the bottom beam and purlins and then screwed sideways into the rafters. Don't have a pic to hand.
