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The work is very rough and it will have gaps too. I too suggest a complete repointing and a paint over. I like Blackjack as it is easy to use and fills the gaps. Although it is a very basic and plain material I've never known anyone dislike it, as they should be noticing the nice structure above.

Yes and no. This would need very detailed consideration and a site survey, just to give this preliminary advice. After you have had it, may be the time to ask on here for other ideas, which a good SE will be happy to discuss. But do be aware that the term 'raft' is used to mean different things to different people. Do you mean a heavily reinforced slab that could span over soft spots and support structural walls, or simply a concrete floor?

indeed. and it is the contractor who would be in very big trouble for not declaring the income. The IR know when annual returns look imbalanced and the VAT computer spots anomalies too. Plus taxes do have a purpose. That customer is probably going through life complaining about government services, and the brown envelope brigade because that is what they would do. 'How much for cash in hand?' Oh just allow a 5% handling charge.

Agreed. Just my hunch, but allowing it to settle may give other, less aerobic, bugs an opportunity to prosper.

So if you use 2 zone control, you may need the volumiser with a 7kW heat pump, but if you just run as a single zone I would just take the buffer out the pipe work and slot a couple of spool pieces in. Why - General rule of thumb, and a specific requirement for some heat pumps is 20L per kW of heat output at min ASHP turn down. The 20L is calculated on the smallest zone that can call for heat. If you have a well zoned house (lots of thermostats), leave the buffer as it is.

Means 'does not fracture'. Usually means it does not get work hardened, which a lot of metals suffer from without treatment, usually thermal. The really hard one to understand it 'toughness'. I was told it was a combination of many of the physical properties, but was never happy with that explanation. Usually used as a volumetric measure to resist fracturing.

We have a WTE Vortex treatment pant using the same Secoh pump, in use last 6 years. Pump runs 24/7. Emptied every 2/3 years as we have an existing septic tank in use from another building. Simple timer operation with no PCB. I would simplify the operation.

“Malleability”. Got this drummed into me as an apprentice electrician.

I’d always put the volumiser on the flow with a heat pump, but if this can be chopped to minimise work and needs to stay on the return I doubt it’s a huge issue.

Is the error code in here, I think it is a multi unit board. 1496_1011026-dtp-control-panel-en-gb---issue-02.pdf

Depending on the exact buffer layout and design, it should be easy to bypass the flow side (the flow from the heatpump and flow to the heating) with 2 T and 2 lever valves. This would leave you with a volumiser on the return. Leave the pump inline but disconnected electrically If the Heatpump pump is man enough great. If not you can run the second pump in series to boost the pressure. If it's all a disaster you can go back to current set up by switching the 2 valves.

People look at me daft when I say “yes I can do a cheaper job for cash, which bits would you like me to omit?”. They say “none!”, and I say here’s my invoice. Cough up.

It’s down to geotechnical surveys and input from an SE. Trying to short cut and ask questions like this here are (sorry) a total waste of your time, and nothing typed here will be of any value or use whatsoever as none relate to your site You can bite the bullet now, and do the geotechnical and grounds conditions surveying, test puts and percolation testing etc done, you’ll need these to decide on what type of foundation is required. Also, this will discount the possibility of having to do a piled foundation, in the worst case. With a good engineer anything’s possible, but more info would be needed about where the 4m deep manhole gets its input, from the new house, as you may need to alter this to become a proper backdrop chamber (with such huge inverts).

There’s a piezo buzzer / sounder on the PCB, the white circular gadget, so it’s defo got alarm indication for some sort of warning when something goes wrong, the manufacturers literature will tell you what this is and then you decide your appetite for risk if you delete it. I doubt if it being on constant makes any sense whatsoever, and personally I think that would decrease longevity. @Russell griffiths, how often does yours go on / off and how long is the pump running each time? Do you know what the alarm indicates?

Thanks that's good to know. I don't think the Bioficient has the moving parts, just the blower.

Thanks Nick, I used to have RA Dalton service it but seemed a bit steep at £300+ a year to have someone basically change the pump filter and diaphragm. The first time they came out they put the blower on constant, they said they had found this gave the best performance. Do you think I could just fit an outside socket with a timer under the cover, plug the blower as a permanent fix? I don't really see what else the control panel is doing if it's on all the time anyway. I don't think it has alarms or anything.

We're currently at the planning stage so don't have a foundation designer / structural engineer on board yet. I appreciate these will be the people that need to give a definitive answer but I was wondering if anyone on the forum and done similar and could share their experience.

Our bricklayer pointed them properly (yours did not) and a coat of masonry paint finished them off.

i think that you would need to ask whoever designed your foundation.

Forever. There are still the 3 chambers separating and breaking down the contents. These aerators were only introduced about 20 years ago and do make it more efficient, but it works regardless. The caveat would be if you are using at capacity, or there is rainwater connecting into it. Most domestic situations have a tank sized for thee maximum occupancy. This ,might not apply to the klargesters with a wheel going round.. that might get quite gungy.

Deffo doing the right thing getting the evidence. The problem is getting all this stuff before you shell out for the plot. In my case vendor wasn't willing to do the graft so I moved on. Plot still for sale

Looks like you’re going to need a new PCB (the main control board). You could try removing it and putting it over a small heater for 24hrs to see if it drives the moisture out. If the pump is 230v you can hook it up to a standard plug in timer for now and just run it manually, whilst trying to dry the PCB out.

It’s about supporting statements, and yes it’s the BCO who decides, but if you approach them with nothing then you’ll just get the knee-jerk FO. Phone calls and emails cost nothing, but hopefully sense will now prevail for the current client with so much positive supporting feedback, from both the council and the fire brigade. Just wondering what the odds are, of the bins catching fire on bin day lol.

Hello, I could really use some help with my Klargester Bioficient 1. During a recent snowstorm the cover over the control panel blew off. When I went to refit it, I noticed that the air pump was not running. I’m not sure if this is related or just a coincidence, it may actually have been off for a few days before I noticed. The system has not tripped the consumer unit and power is still reaching the control box. However, the display is blank. If I press the reset button, the display briefly flashes the number “23” a few times, then goes blank again with just a small red dot showing at the bottom of the display. Things I have already checked: Fuses appear to be fine The unit is still receiving power I replaced the Secoh JDK 80 pump with another pump, but it still doesn’t run and the error remains I had a look in the chamber and there is nothing obvious like it's backed up or anything. Does anyone know what error code 23 indicates or have any suggestions on what else I should check? Also, how long can the system run without the blower before it starts causing problems with the treatment process? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I thought that since they are below dpc there could be damp rise up the blocks and it needs to escape somewhere.