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iirc there are no statutory limits placed on planning departments, so they can take as long as they want. They might have set themselves a local ambition. Give them a call and ask - there's no harm.

Yes, that's what I was thinking! I should have put 'rather specific applications' in air quotes. I was once given a tour of one of those dodgy 'specific applications' (don't ask🤫) and they applied the most rigerous scientiffic approach I've seen outside of a lab! It was all chemical testing, clipboards and graphs... They had also had the most jerryrigged and terrifying electrical system I ever came accross (and I once worked on a house without a fusebox that was wired by Victorians, so that says something). Lengths of rebar rod wrapped in newspaper...

The space I want to use for running the pipework is small and I was looking for fittings that are slimmer than plastic push-fit. The Geberit FlowFit system looks good on paper but Geberit don't publish the overall diameter of a 20mm fitting. I looked at all their documents and even checked with ChatGPT.

I believe we have the highest industrial prices or thereabouts. As said that is important for the economy and our competitiveness. But not the highest consumer prices. Most of the complaining you hear on line is regarding consumer prices. The UK consumer price of electricity is close to the average of large Western European countries. The recent 3.5p cut in electricity prices was due to the government taking on some subsidies and having them paid by the taxpayer. So what you were paying for electricity you may now be paying in tax. In reality they only did this because these subsidies were close to coming to an end. The price of electricity would have fallen on its own, but they get to take the credit by bringing it a bit forward. Not taking a party political view, that is certainly a smart way to play it. Money Saving Expert explains it well here. About a third of the saving is from the end of the Great British Insulation Scheme which was ending this year anyway. The other 2/3 is from the Renewables Obligation Scheme which was due to end in March 2029. https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/news/2025/11/energy-bill-cut-renewables-eco-martin-lewis/

The local Scote-bags around here are experts with hydroponics and grow lamps

I remember a billion years ago there was a requirement for 5m distance from ground to blade tip (and from any windows) for building mounted units. Not sure about free standing rules. This will only be 3-400 watt max turbine. Noise will be zero unless you stand right under it.

What building regs requirements would apply to a lampost on a public throughfare?

Ah yes—when I finally move from the building works into the garden, the greenhouse will get some special attention. I’m thinking along the lines of compost heating, like the Victorians used for fruit houses—possibly even combining it with an outdoor composting toilet! I’m still not entirely convinced by the whole hydroponics approach. It seems to be most successful in rather specific applications, rather than as a broadly useful growing method. I was actually thinking more about changes on the house side of things. For example, I’ve incorporated more external greenery to create a kind of “cool island” around the house—the fruit and nut production is a nice bonus.

Cavity barriers and firestopping is often left to "others". They often get left out as nobody really knows what to specify or order or fit. Were they specified and detailed on the architects drawings? Rockwool would be a decent choice for non-vented and Envirograf for intumescent, vented rainscreen applications. I would want detailed spec and drawings, so nothing gets missed on your order or on site.

Our QS says he can’t find a supplier for cavity barriers for timber frame! 🤔🤦‍♀️

Interesting, I wonder if the people putting these up have to comply with the same building regs requirements as a home owner would? Or will it be different because it's the Council so normal rules don't apply...

I really like the XPS backer boards. Lots of thicknesses, lightweight, easy to cut and fix, waterproof. Fix with adhesive foam or screws and washers.

https://archive.ph/sYtiH

Thanks, that's much more like it. No way it could have been such a large number.

My 10 pence worth is if the wall has not got EWI I would use XBS bonded and screwed back to the whole wall. It's not going to add a lot of insulation but it will reduce condensate and in turn mould. You can tile and plaster XBS boards

Can anyone recommend a local Civil Engineer they know in the Merseyside area, as well as a groundwork contractor experienced in residential foundations and United Utilities? Look forward to hearing back from fellow self-builders. Paul

Looks like it should have been millions not billions... "Compensation costs for the curtailment of renewable energy fell by around 22 percent to 435 million euros in 2025, compared to the previous year (€554 million in 2024), showed a response from the German economy ministry to a question by Left Party parliamentarian Dietmar Bartsch, seen by CLEW." https://www.cleanenergywire.org/news/renewable-curtailment-compensation-costs-germany-decrease-22-2025 and https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1364032118300091. The second link is interesting as it compares the UK and Germany.

Not easy to reconcile "don't want" and "unable to" with compliance with Part K. I hear what Mr Punter has to say, but BC will want proof that these rooflights will be capable of sustaining the loads imposed by a falling person and how do you do that? A very cautious BCO may say "what if the rooflights are open?". Walk on glass may be an option but can you be sure the rooflight frames and fixings are suitable for foot traffic? I would have thought one of the many available fully glazed modular systems available on line is your only option, but fixing down adequately and ensuring good waterproofing at this late stage are going to be the issues.

Can you clarify if you intend to extend the existing ground floor, also adding a basement under? Without a floor plan there is a limited amount anyone can suggest. I think that having a measured survey of the existing building and plot would be a good start. Have it include a section through the house / plot, neighbouring properties, front and rear elevations. Budget £1,200. Make sure you own the rights to use the plans.

What do you mean by a "single storey extension with basement underneath" Looking at your picture, a single storey extension level with the existing ground floor would already be part underground (semi basement) Are you suggesting a basement below that? That would be really deep. Or some split level design (extension not necessarilly level with existing floors) A separate building well away from the house is what most people do for a drum kit.

Went through the same thing with my own build and here's what I gathered after countless hours of research and AI aid as well. Ajax - is the Apple like new entrant into the market, and has the most stylish keypads, sensors etc. But they don't sell direct and are the priciest - got some quotes and it was easily 2-3x other competitors so I dropped this idea. Texecom - this is the industry standard for a graded system (I think you need Grade 2 for home security). Kit is pretty well known and standardised through the app and keypads are a little dated - works but nothing to look at is the consensus. Apparently there is no charge to use their app if you have the WiFi/Ethernet module. Orisec - relatively new entrant in the market and seems to have been setup by ex Texecom people. App is slightly newer and seems to get more updates. £45 charge to use the app on a yearly basis. Pricing is virtually the same as Texecom - based on the installer so you take your pick based on what you like. Pyronix - seems to be lowest rated of the lot (at least if you look online). This is the one we have in our current house (a wireless one). It works but the app is quite shit and frequently logs me out so I miss the notifications(!) when an alarm is triggered. Also currently £45 for annual access to the app. The other choice you have to make is a wired or wireless system. Wired does add a chunk of cost upfront (wiring and labour cost to do the wiring), but you don't have to change batteries every year which means high Capex low Opex. The advantage with most of the systems is that you can start with a baseline wired system for your key doors/windows and then expand gradually by adding wireless sensors in the future (like if you're adding front gates, rear outbuilding etc). FWIW - I've chosen to go with a wired Orisec system with option to add wireless sensors in the future. It was a toss up between the Orisec and Texecom and I'd be happy with either - went with the installer recommendation.

Apologies, forgot to post reply to this. Do we use the Rockwool type or the flexible pvc wrapped cavity barrier? Thank you

Yes, you can hire the tools. But my honest opinion is that if you're just doing a room, you're better off using push-fit, or copper. I only use MLCP when I have a larger installation to do so if it's whole house, whole heating system, long primaries to a heat pump or something else significant, that's where it will make the difference, plus threading through a house is much easier with a PB push-fit pipe.

really need greenhouse with bifacial roof panels to stop overheating but run your hydroponics recycling system and winter led grow lights

Since that article is behind a paywall, could you provide a summary or link to an alternative source?