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I have to ask about the exterior 'screen'? Don't you feel it interferes with the views? Lovely corner windows, great views, and then you look out onto (into) the additional timber screens.

Do you have any mobile phone signal at all? If so you can ask for an T3 External Aerial to be added to a smart meter.

You'll be surprised at just how much you can abuse an 80a connection. You'll not actually be doing as much 'constant, full-wallop' consuming of the juice . These things are a lot worse on paper than in reality. You'd not believe what one previous client was running off a 60a connection previously, when I was approached to refurb and add PV, and that was a large property full of electric showers / all electric cooking / fully occupied, and a self contained annex with the same all-electric setup in there sharing the same supply.

You have a bit of luck, as the base of each handle has those larger 'feet', so I would just drill incrementally up in size until you get to where you need to be. If it's up/down, then maybe use the 5mm bit to just elongate to make a slot, vs making bigger holes, plus you may need to fit washers to the screws so they don't pull into the (real wood) of the door and then move back to where you don't want them to be from the tightening action (rotational movement of the pan head screws). Very slow and very steady wins the race, so don't do this in anger.

UVC doesn't give higher flow rates at the 50o+ temps? Combi's can't usually be compared. 3 showers is very good, at what flow rates?

I think the above anti cycling time is primarily designed to enable the boiler to refire after burner cut out due to the heat load being less than the boiler's minimum output, Systems like Evohome make a virtue of switching the boiler on/off but you can limit the cycles/hour to a max of 6 I think, presume the boiler just does a pump overrun then at the end of each switch off period and the circ pump then stay off until the next Evohome requested On period?

Mostly pics tbh

Just been told by our leccy supplier though they can fit a smart meter it will only act as a dumb meter as the phone signal is so bad down here. Means I can't take advantage of a lower EV charging tariff. Would the kit you use help?

Clicked on the link expecting details about U values and weather compensation curves. Lovely surprise. Best landlord .

Well despite having a number of hedgehogs thro the garden during the evenings we've only had one take up residence the other one is being ignored. I'll leave it where it is over winter and then maybe relocate it next year as it's probably the location that doesn't suit (no kerb appeal probably)

Just for balance , my house is in to middle of fields about a mile from the local village. There was no way to get a land line and tbh I didn’t want to see a line of telephone poles coming all the way down the land :-). Anyhow I have about 1-2 bar mobile reception here. I just got a good passive aerial/dish and pointed it towards the nearest mask (looked up online). It’s just plugged into the back of the router that has the sim. I have about 40mb/s down and same up. 2 kids gaming etc , TV and two of us working from home with no problems. Been 5 years now.

I’m sure you’ve sold out already, I’ve been far too slow to reply. such a shame as I would probably have ordered several copies 😭😭😭🤣

Saturdays usage in graphical form But you can extract it in 30 min slots in excel format - once you have that you can use HDD data to get a very good picture of your heat loss if heating 24/7 - on a schedule it's not going to be as accurate but it'll give you a good guide PS the peak at 06:00 to 06:30 was my water heating slot

I wouldn’t range rate it at all if heating to a schedule to start with but I’d assess the warm up time and consider range rating only if house heat up was very fast - even then I’d probably not bother with scheduled heating and that’s coming from someone who has range rated boilers in the past but only when they’ve been grossly oversized maybe monitor your gas usage over the winter period and look at it again with a bit of data from octopus (where you can get a massive amount of half hourly data)

Not quite the same but have just painted 14 flush plywood internal doors with black Osmo Oil stain. I did 3 coats, first 2 applied with a 4" roller and sanded with 320. Top coat applied very liberally with lint free cloth wrapped around a hand pad holder, Osmo do a fleece, link below. https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-hand-applicator-fleece?sid=1&s=3970027-c23026905f54b60afc435908c3958a1f&r=10&p=1 Have you noticed any white pigment in the 3068?

Octopus is measuring input gas rate, you are measuring/assuming output. There will always be a difference between these as your boiler will not run at 100% efficiency. With zero heating controls, efficiency of a modern boiler is assumed to be 89% in testing and depending on the whole system could be as low as 75% efficient.

Hi All - I have been finishing the oak tops with the 3068 natural version of the Osmo Top Oil however it seems to go on quite different to the normal satin/matt version. I'm applying it with a brush and rubbing the excess off after a few mins. Because this seems to be a very differnet oil it feels like more coats are needed. Just wondering if anyone out there has any experince with these oils. Oak tops. Initially sanded to 150. Applied two coats 12 hrs apart, then rubbed down with 240 before applying a third coat. Forth applied same as third. Cheers, Paul

I've just ordered mine and asked for 25kVA. Spoke to the National Grid surveyor about the load - in our case 2x car chargers, lift motor, induction hob, heat pump, and all of the other normal applicances. His recommendation was that they supply something that he initially called 2 phase - but with both phases matched ... so its really 2x 80a connections ... and to split the load across them, particarly 1 car charger on each. Cost had to include a new pole and new overhead cables (as I need insulated to build within the 3m exclusion for uninsulated), so not cheap, but at under £6k way cheaper than when I asked about 3 phase - and if its needed....the DNO pay for a new transformer - whereas I'd have to pay for a 3ph transformer.

Thanks everyone; most helpful. So, @JohnMo I have re-rated the heat loss as per the scale shown by @marshian; it's Category three, pre-2006 new build. Using this chart gives 30-50w/m2 so between 10.5kw and 17kw plus 10% for on/off. If I take the mid-point then it's 15kw including the 10%, so I am too low at 12.5kw as @JohnMo says; I'm going to range rate it for 17kw and see what we get. Just as an aside, how quickly should the rads heat up to 50C if the boiler is correctly rated? Ours are taking about 45 minutes. (BTW @SteamyTea, there was no call for DHW when the CH was running) I'll post an update, but again many thanks for taking the time to respond to my query. Cheers.

Hi All - So in my mad rush to get everything usable for Christmas I've managed to mess up the handles on the tall cupboards. Not quite sure how I did it, but no matter it's done now. They are about 2mm out. I tried drilling a larger 5mm hole to get some play but its not enough. Before I bite the bullet and drill an even bigged hole is there any other one ways to solve this? Doors are MDF -- no idea how diy-kitchens get to sell it as solid wood when it's all chipboard and mdf, but that's another thing. Cheers, Paul

I shall request if 100a is available, I know they try and only give an 80a supply on standard connections, if I need to I’ll sell my two big old welders and get a smaller machine that can run off 32amps, I’ll see what price the give me for upgrading as it may future proof things…