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Why not use a thicker board 25mm and carve the back out to match the stone work.

Just to eliminate the obvious when you've encountered this issue have you rebooted both the router and your phone/device?

B&Q Spacepro brand. MIs say 2260 is the frame height, width 3m. So my opening is 2270 at one side 2280 at the other. How do I do this? Was thinking a bit of 19mm planed timber attached to ceiling and plane it to remove the extra 10mm? Will it bend enough? Thoughts welcome... Floor is square, ceiling has been plastered after a leak and I reckon its the ceiling that's off-sloped. Plan A is to cut a timber to 2260 then mark out the gap every 150mm or so across the 3m opening

Thanks for the replies, that photo is pretty much what i need to do, apart from my wall is wonky stone. I will have to try and source some, to be honest i hadnt heard of it before i came on here. Thanks agsin Carl

Final follow up on this L9 error: it was not (really) the flow sensor or the kinked up flexis, but a load of limescale build up in the ASHP heat exchanger. Full write up in new thread:

OK early signs are (very) promising! the "bucket test" delivered 24 l/min, and I've refilled the system (adding a bottle of F1) and it's now doing a DHW cycle at 16 l/min. Still not quite where I'd like it to be, but far better than the 10 l/min or less it's been hobbling by on for the last 24 months .... Interesting... I'd always thought using such occasions as an opportunity to flush out the crap and refill with clean. But yes, or course ... if scale is the problem refilling it is introducing a whole load more calcium carbonate ontop of what's already built up. I guess running the drain off through a fine filter would help sift off the worst of the mess coming out. Challenge is where to put the 100l of water when temporarily draining down the system ... although in most cases I can isolate the volumizing tank and leave the UFH loops untouched, so probably a quite doable. I'll read the heatgeek page and ponder how to attack this next time I do some service on it. Good news is I do now have this nifty wee pump so cycling water through it is much simpler now. 15 quid well spent https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/187759301764

Have you tried changing your DNS service. Can do it either on the devices (WARP) or in the actual router.

Hmmmm . Proving tricky ! After a lot of talking we have a “ Avalon “ wake word with pretty good success . But radio on etc not so great . Trying to access lms streams and use that to filter my speech from radio not producing good enough results . Also depends where I am in the room - we use direction of speech to aid if I said or radio said it . Solution seems be another uma8 placed on the opposite side of the room ….

You can share memory with others Memory godboxes could offer relief from the RAMpocalypse

Thanks, any recommendations? I suppose my main concern is the placement of the room outlets, are there any specific considerations I should be mindful of?

Yes, airtightness is a feature of what I'm planning. Everything to do date has been detailed for a high degree of airtightness. The house is of solid masonry construction and will be externally insulated in future. Hopefully that'll afford me the opportunity to get as airtight as possible.

Re downpipes. Once the water is in the pipe it is well within capacity. But the constraint is in the inlet where a weir effect forms. So a single pipe with a big outlet can carry lots of water where a standard one cannot. The upmarket makes cater for this. Do you know what brand is being used? They should have info in their brochure or online. It sounds a bit as if this hasn't been designed and is just a sequence of events. Bigger gutters, big outlets, more than one pipe (and/or an overflow) and a fall, if possible, all help. Also, a downpipe near an end works less well than if centrally positioned. Bottom line is what happens if it overflows? Does it come clear of the house or run back to the wall?

Another update. Since installing Starlink we have an intermittent problem with WiFi calling. We are out in the sticks with no mobile signal and rely on using broadband for phone calls. I have searched t'internet and it seems to be a known problem to do with IP addresses but without a definite solution. Has anyone else here experienced similar problems or even better, found a solution?

It doesn't look like it in the first picture I posted above because the bracket is this side of the roof, but if I put a straight edge on the roof it runs straight to the inside of the gutter. It doesnt lie over the top of the gutter, so even if the rain ran off at sepped in a straight line, it would still land in the gutter ok. I think the important thing to do is ask your metal roof supplier how they want it.

Thanks @JohnMo that's super useful info Today's project will be just to descale (the second batch of DS3 is currently resting in the PHE), flush, flow rate test, lob in a bottle of Fernox F1 and set the system going for a few days to validate I'll definitely look into the VDI2035 for a follow up project once the basics are back working

Just had an email ad: Dewalt discounts at Toolstation.

Gotcha. No idea how a ball could get down there!

OK I've modified the geometry with your feedback above. I think that'll work, thanks. A useless fact I learnt is that the water falls in a parabola, presumably dependent on the velocity it flows off the roof.

A small kids ball, tennis balls generally go around the bend but something a bit larger may get stuck. Buying a cheapie endoscope camera would be a good idea here, if not you are into jetting (proper jetting or pressure washer) or digging out

The rod got all the way to what I assume is the u bend. So not in the pipe itself. not quite sure what you mean by a ball!

Definitely fat buildup from kitchen waste. Also pipes from washing machine and upstairs bathroom. was looking at this - think I have a karcher pressure washer that works if I hold it in a certain way! https://www.screwfix.com/p/karcher-drain-gutter-cleaning-kit-4-pcs/91778

If you push the hose up from the chamber, how far does it go? Trying to identify if the blockage is in the pipe or the trap (u bend). My gut feeling this is a ball that gone down when the water was low and then pushed round as water flowed in … if it is a ball they can be a pig to get out.. jetting with a good hose or pressure washer back towards the house would be my preferred approach.

thanks Nick, made a few calls - gone with Simplex Health after a very sensible conversation with lab test for the bugs and diy test for metals / Ph etc

Jetting attachment for a pressure washer. Don't be surprised if the blockage is due to a broken pipe. Endoscope camera would be handy. What are those other pipes discharging in? Anything from a kitchen sink or dishwasher? Could be fat build up in that case.

Feel like I need something like this but bigger more industrial. cant seem to find anything yet https://www.toolstation.com/arctic-hayes-waste-pipe-cleaner/pAB199?msclkid=181cbe7939d5164b8006d478feced8ec&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=_PMax_Hand+Tools_Core_Bing&utm_term=2324711180433296&utm_content=Hand+Tools+-+Restructure