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I started a DIY MVHR build as I wanted to make my house a bit more insulated, but already have condensation on windows and smells that linger for says, so it seemed like a sensible next step. My attic is cold, but the only place I really have space for a unit, and figured I could insulate the chimneys at the same time as passing MVHR pipes down them (after putting in a lintel) - 3 chimneys front and 3 at the back for a 3 story mid-terrace house of ~140sqm. The chimneys are pretty warm now I have insulated them at the attic (no external walls), and added small breather vents into the house. I have mostly insulated the ducting in the chimney and will of course do the same in the attic once I have finalised manifold locations, and probably the MVHR itself given it's a cold attic. There are some rooms I still need to work out the semi-rigid duct path (no chimney to use for several rooms), but Im starting to think about next steps and would love to hear your thoughts/concerns please? Im planning to put the MVHR in the middle of the chimneys, and the semi-rigid ducting can all meet at some manifolds there quite easily. Do you think it would be best to wall mount with some brackets, or just put some wooden joists to support its base? If I put the external vents through the chimney then there will be a lot of bends to deal with (around the roof supports and going down to the opening for the chimney before going up the chimney to some form of cowl). Would I need a drain point at the bottom of this ductwork, or is it generally ok so long as the ductwork is insulated? My alternative is to ask a roofer to cut a hole in my roof and put the external vents directly above the MVHR (and could then totally remove chimney at some point - given I think I can see water marks on the chimney above the lintel it presumably needs some work anyway). Is this worthwhile do you think? (shorter pipework but more invasive and risky to interfere with the roof, given somebody in the past made the strange decision to add planks added on the back of the roof) A Zehnder Q350 is an impossible squeeze through my roof hatch at present, but I may cut the hatch just to allow entry and then re-seal... Though definite effort! Alternative options with a width <510mm seem to sacrifice a fair bit. The Zehnder needs 160mm vents, but if I used 200mm vents could I use flexi pipework to make the routing easier (due to the above), or would I need more like 250mm to compensate for all the ridges....? (the chimneys are about 240mm wide, but quite sooty, so definitely needs lining) Any thoughts or feedback very much welcome, thanks in advance!

SAP (part L) is to do with energy efficiency. Part Q / Secure by Design is security. Part O is overheating.

It is always worth phoning if you need a decent amount. Bear in mind delivery costs can be high on insulation.

I'm just double checking my drawings and SAP calc prior to ordering my doors/windows. As expected the SAP calc provides information on the U and G values for the windows, doors and patio doors. However it also states the following:- Windows - Part O, M & Q Compliant) & Secure by Design Compliant Solid Doors - (Part Q & Secure by Design Compliant) Fully Glazed Patio Doors (Part Q & Secure by Design Compliant) My supplier has questioned some of the specification, that's only being driven by the SAP Assessor, for example 'Secure by Design'. Does this have any affect on the SAP calculation at all? I assume the Part O, M & Q are to keep me compliant with build regulations but happy to stand corrected. Kind regards, Jamie

Shouldn't be an issue regarding approval. All bungalows have been demolished and rebuilt. No grand design over sized mansion just a normal family home. The only difference is the additional local framework and criteria but looking at this and previous planning applications seems pretty straight forward. Had lots of recommendations for this architect just something doesn't feel quite right!

How do you gauge whether a light fitting needs extra support above the ceiling/between joists? Are there any online links regarding how to give extra support to weighted fittings?

Mostly a long run of piping, although getting what looks a good CoP, generally 3+ it wasn't really that good, as we got a big slug of cold water hit the cylinder coil and it cooled the vessel. So small recharge needed to add a disproportionate of energy. So will just leave heat pump to tick away, doing heating and cooling.

Plenty of companies do MEV. You want one that automatically adjusts fan speed for humidity levels with extract vents that open and close automatically also. Then couple that with humidity activated inlet vents either in window or through wall. Do some reading via Google Passivent, Deco, to name a couple. You need to have air movement with cross ventilation dry areas to wet and out the house. To allow this you also need door under cuts or through wall vent grills. I would keep it simple and do dMEV, with all the features mentioned above.

Has anyone had experience with waterproof or heavy-duty outdoor curtains for a garage setup? I would greatly appreciate any recommendations for companies that provide such products, particularly those that are easy to install and maintain.

I think it will make a difference, we have a lot of surrounding properties so need all the light we can get!

Do you need those? It’ll be plenty light enough in there with the windows you have planned, those roof lights will just add complexity and cost (and maybe leaks) and be noisy when it rains. Wracking my brain for a ‘positive’ but can’t come up with anything.

Hello everyone! I'm looking to enhance my space and protect it from mosquitoes and other insects. I would love your suggestions. Do you know any companies that specialize in mosquito mesh curtains? I would greatly appreciate your recommendations—thank you in advance!

Anybody?

Fingers crossed! Let us k ow how you get on

That is a bold statement to make! The design of the links can be complex, depends on the level of shear stress, usually in and around the pile heads. I won't comment further as I don't know what loads are on the beams / piles. Plus one to that, good advice. This is what often happens, sometimes a quick phone call between the engineers can sort it all out. Oh, it's ok to design to BS 8110, so long as you are aware of any parts of the more modern Eurocode that superceed the older BS 8110 code.

Hi Gus, no I have a solid concrete floor so no ground floor joists to worry about!

Hopefully, there will be a few more updates coming more regularly now that permissions have been granted

Great, I have a plan now - thanks again 👍

What centres are your links?

Well, in hindsight and all that... If I'd known getting this part right would have been such an issue I might have done things differently. BC have signed off the drawings now and the walls are up, so pitched roof it is. I love EPDM, I've used it quite a bit before - but when it comes to the details such as sealing round rooflights, I can see that getting very fiddly. Once the roof is framed I think I'll be enlisting a roofer for the tiles.

Current winter daily average HW heating is 4.5 kWh at £0.052 per kWh No solar, no battery and std fixed electricity rate at £0.26 per kWh - be a big increase in cost to heat direct via immersion only We only ever heat direct in summer during heating system improvements (have some more planned for 2026)

Your drawings should have been clear enough to determine if it’s a two or three-storey house. Building Control will have determined this from your drawings and would have asked for a protected staircase if they deemed it a three-storey house. I can’t believe that your drawings were that unclear.

I assume you have a suspended timber ground floor with timber joists. Take a step back and check that what you are doing will not compromise these joist ends or any joist running parallel to the external wall. If so by how much and what are the risks. The basics of timber preservation are; keep it in the dark, cold and with plenty air circulation (drafty!). Once you get a handle on this then the rest of the insulation strategy / air tightness is based around that.

Sounds like your job has become a bit of a battle for the bco. It's a tough one. Maybe in the first instance copy your piling engineer in on their concerns and get him and them to sort it between them. You want to try to de escalate if you want to get the job moving might need some skillful diplomacy when talking to both sides.

Why not go for a flat roof, wouldn’t doing that solve your problem? EPDM is very DIYable.