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Stupid of me to assume the air inside the house was damp when you mentioned rusting stoves and wok. I should have realised that you might keep your stoves and wok in the garden......no wonder the stoves don't heat the house if they aren't in it. I'm done here. Adios

No, I have his website in my bookmarks. I don't know him personally, but he is known in the industry, and I'm in the industry - IYKWIM? He was actually interviewed by HVAC Education hub recently, so you can listen to him talk - he very much talks the language of buildhub in his design philosophy.

They knew exactly what we planned to do and we gave a very clear requirement. I'm getting very used to this 'quality' of output from the suppliers / distributors etc. now though. Speaking to my builder, it's entirely 'normal' and he spends a large amount of time fixing design issues on site. Unfortunately it also only works on windows and I'm loathed to by a PC or try and set up a virtual machine on my Mac just for this; this was why I went with a supplier who would be paid to do the design (having provided them with all the necessary information). #sigh... Is this a personal recommendation of this one, or has it turned up on a search (just wanting to make sure I understand before I look around). Thanks for the nudge. This is a good enough reason for me I think

Best of luck @-rick-.You have a good heart, and a good heart these days is hard to find. (quote F S) I just can't see you winning this One. However, well done for trying. Most of the above has been tried before, by other well meaning people.

I can't even imagine relying on the self adhesive to stay put during the pour. In the pic above, I gas nailed the feck out of each and every rail, and then went around with some P-clips where the pipe still refused to stay put.

£70 a month (£840 per year) no, as I've said before I think there is a decent improvement to be had for not ridiculous money. As I've said my mums uninsulated house with an inefficient gas setup and various other problems costs about £2000 per year to keep at around 20 during the day but they let it get cold overnight). I do think it's possible for zoot to be much more comfortable for an affordable amount extra per year, at least as a trial. If zoot has money to consider ripping up his concrete floor and replacing it he has the money to try this. Maybe he doesn't have it to run long term but having the information about what it takes to warm the house can direct him to the most cost effective improvements to lower those bills. Right now it's finger in the air guesswork. I've not given up yet but I do understand where you are coming from. I hope zoot will agree to try it for a period of time. If it works then we can have a conversation about whats next. But fundamentally zoot doesn't believe this stuff and words on a screen aren't going to change his mind. Being warm in his house might.

Ok, so you may want to go for 12mm plywood everywhere else upstairs, and drop back to 6mm at the threshold of the bathroom doorway. That'll allow you the 'good job of it' plywood layer, and then a 6mm deficit for you to install a mat and some electric heating mat, submerged in SLC (use Mapei LINK as it has fibres), and then your LVT will be flush from the hallways to the bathroom floor. Everything needs priming, expect @Pocster, he's already primed to the hilt. Brush some primer / water solution over the floor and UFH immediately before mixing the SLC, as you need to lay 'wet on wet' here for success. Add 1/4 pint of water to the SLC right before you throw it onto the floor, after you mix it to their instructions.

He's a man of many words, mostly curious ones...............perhaps he should lay off the Stella's a bit

It's a lot of money to do that. Zoot hasn't been hugely clear on his financial constraints but given he got his heatpump installed through a low income support scheme I think it's reasonable to assume an AGA is off the table. Zoot did have a woodburner, that has also failed to heat his place. I tend to think the heatpump can work and would be cheaper to run than an aga but only if used in a very specific way and one that zoot is very resistant to doing.

It's been asked for repeatedly. There should be two of them. One from the original install and one from the monobloc replacement. Unfortunately a lot of things get missed in this thread. There is so much going on I can understand why.

Phew, far too much technical jargon there. I'm struggling to keep up! 😜

Thank you Nick. Upstairs is Kronospan Fast Clean chipboard. The majority of upstairs will have 6mm ply with posh lino bits glued on. In the main bathroom we will instead have an electric UFH mat thingy with a layer of levelling goo, then the posh lino bits. The UFH mat will not extend under the shower tray, I had assumed it would just sit with the lino butting up against it, but there’s no reason I can’t screw down a layer of 6mm ply if it’s a good idea. I assume the ply still needs priming.

I asked for that back on page 16...maybe it was missed. Important information particularly since the surveyor said no.

So the company selling it could get the grant money, and pocket a few bob.

Pull the heat pump out, you didn’t pay for it so who cares. fit an oil fired aga in the kitchen run the rads from this at high temperature. this is the sort of thing this building needs, woodburner in the evening. I don’t understand how this system was even fitted.

They will float if mixed with a fluid that has a greater density. I have recently, out of curiosity, been reading up on foaming concrete. With suitable reinforcement and on site quality control, it seems to me that this could be a very useful product.

I don't believe that anybody on here is trying to bully Zoot the hoot. However, it is easy to see the frustration. Zoot appears to be very good at avoidance. He had very fixed ideas as to why he is correct in his assumptions, and that nobody else can possible understand. He has a belief that no matter what he sets his ASHP controls to, it will not work. We all know that the phisics say it will work, but i bring you back to the following points. Who thinks that Zoot can get his "Special. One of a kind cottage" in the "Special. Micro climate" to be nice and comfortably warm during the depths of winter for £70 per month. I for One don't. Can all the tinkering being suggested on here make a huge difference ? It's possible, but i believe that to make any substantial difference, it is going to cost more money to run. Will Zoot spend more money. NO, he had said so himself. Then there is the fundamental point that Zoot is not going to run, his ASHP at 16, 0r 18 degrees during the night. I believe he said that, that would be madness. He has said over, and over, that the max he will consider is 10 degrees. I can honestly say that despite, what i believe is all the good intentions, nothing is going to change his mind about the three main points. Special house. Micro climate, and that running heating during the night is not madness. I don't think i am trying to bully Zoot when i suggest, a damn good ski suit might, be an easier way to stay warm. If you all manage to change his way of thinking, then hats off to you. The thread does make entertaining reading. The mods are free to delete this post, if they think i am being out of order.

As above, the self adhesive clip rails are great. Lay them out, stick them down, then start laying your pipe, dead easy to get spacing set. You need a few staples on the bends.

Could I respectfully ask @zoothorn , have you done a Heat Loss Calculation for your house? Perhaps you have and I've overlooked your reply. If you have, would you mind sharing it with us please.

With the exception of Zoot, I do wonder sometimes if you’re all being trolled? (An observation, not bullying)

Neither is landscaping but if it is on the approved plans it is recoverable.

NOOOOOOOOOO!! I'm not having this. I didn't expect anyone to understand. It's so much easier isn't it, to just say 'oh yes, it's the house'. Utterly, completely lazy. Which is the opposite of the effort you've put in trying to help. So completely at odds. Since those two months, Ive not had one second of any breathing problem, lung problem, ache/ pain, no more colds or sinus anything what so fkn ever. I've been more healthy overall, here, than anywhere I've lived too.. most likely the sea air & general cleanliness of it (particulates etc). Sea air. It was a physiological thing- my body pretty bloody obviously & simply attuned to the conditions in this local vicinity here. Topography wise, it was chalk & cheese to the cotswolds I was in before. Near the sea, inland west of the sea, 600m high up in a wooded steep-side valley, tucked down between. This topography has some bearing on the climate I speak of. The unusual climate which WAS the cause & the only fkn cause, of the 2-month 'condition' my body attuned to. Facts. I don't give a hoot for numbers. These are plain facts. The LOCALE, not the cottage. The AREA, not the dwelling. The VICINITY, not this house. I cannot be any clearer. This is not up for argument either. I will not rise to it anymore. This stacking up is grating now, so I shall take a break. I will do as you suggest, bar the overnight rads on at 16*C, & report back in 2 months. Carry on sniping everyone, gathering your 'likes' together at my expense. I will have nothing to do with reading it/ ignored (Yourself Rick not included/ this is not aimed at you). Thanks, Zoot

We have been running a recirculating Bora hob with built in grease trap and carbon filter for around seven years with no issues. The filtered air is vented into the room at plinth level.

As the protective fencing is NOT a part of your building, you can't claim for that anyway. I would say something like excavations for foundations, or in our case, fitting of sewage treatment plant (STP) would be the start of building work.