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Shame they couldn’t use a spirit level when setting the ceiling out….

Thank you Mr Punter It was my architect that put doubt in my mind about using timber, my BC guy had already intimated that timber is acceptable, I will double check though, it will make life a lot bloody easier!

There’s so much velocity with rain / storm water, these things just tend to flush themselves out. Last one had private BCO and warranty by the same company, and they didn’t want / ask for rodding on rainwater. If you choose wisely, the rainwater gulleys can come with a blank access plug, so it maintains a trap but gives rodding access to the pipework. Decent jetters can get around pretty much anything tbh.

Interested to know, because we didnt have any that rodding points on the rainwater pipes that surround the perimeter of the build and nothing was raised when they came out at the time, however, I have heard of some BCO’s wanting rodding points where a run exceeds a certain distance. It might be one of those ‘depends who you get’

Now to the fitting part, So current joist size is 7 by 2 or depth of 175 mm in metric units. Now These loft rolls come in depth of 150mm or 200mm. If I select 150mm depth to go between the joist and fit on the furthermost end away from ceiling level there'll be a 25mm gap between the ceiling plasterboard and start of insulation. Is there potential for condensation in this place? I have the impression that the insulation should be fully fitted to the depth of the joist.

Trying to figure out the regs for rainwater pipes. We have a couple of 90 degree junctions and one at 45 degrees on our rainwater pipe runs as they go around the hpuse perimeter, can we use rodding points on those or do they have to be inspection chambers? Also, is there a minimum depth they have to run at without needing concrete protection- will all be below paving or garden area.

No, you can use timber. You may need 38 x 63 cls to go round the opening between the blockwork and the SIPs. Fit them before the blockwork goes in.

Thanks for the reply. This is the only room where the coving fitter has taken the coving past the joinery line. In other rooms he stopped it short so it can be finished before it hits the wardrobes/joinery. I have no idea why he did this here and it has made it more complicated. Just wondering if he can cut the coving away vertically. You can see the line where the coving would not sit straight on the joinery. What a headache.

Pretty much, unless it’s a cathedral. Temporary tiled displays can go onto decoupling membranes that are floating over the substrate, some I have done exactly like this over floating floors in apartment blocks where the floors are mechanically disconnected by design, for acoustic control. Sounds doomed to fail, but worked perfectly well tbh.

... have I understood this correctly? A decoupling mat removes the need for expansion joints at door thresholds?

Work out the sizes you need, go to a merchant, and cut up an 8x4 in their yard.

Filler panel to match the wardrobe doors, scribed in to the coving. I never have the coving finish to the panel as it’s a pig to install ‘in reverse’ plus then it can be installed /removed easily.

we've spent so long planning the joinery in our home. In two of the rooms the plaster coving was going to run across the top of wardrobes. The wardrobes were designed with this in mind. Plaster coving guy has come to fit the coving above the wardrobes and has discovered the ceiling is out, meaning there will be a large variation and the coving won't be straight. I would appreciate any thoughts on how to finish this. We could add a timber cornice to the top but that would mean cutting back the coving. Absolutely gutted that years of planning have come to this on the day of fitting. Any help appreciated.

My PH certified designer is Ok with 1000mm separation, so ergo, I am also good with that; or anything more as a bonus. I feel your pain. Currently on site retrofitting a whole of house MVHR system into a converted 3 storey, brick built Victorian semi….. Done more carpentry and joinery than MVHR work here tbh!! 🥵

£2k for peace of mind and absolute insurance against failure for 200m2 of floor, is not really a “big” cost, considering the project as a whole? Think of the cost and inconvenience of this having been omitted, but necessary, and you're down to a part of 1%, not even a whole. 49%, eg at ‘50% doubt’ I’d be decoupling.

I’m thinking about putting some flush fitted. floor up lights in my mezzanine floor. I was thinking dimmable LED’s of some type maybe? Was wondering if anyone has got any recommendations on the lights?

Thank you. We can do the test but I just wonder why they ask this type of thing at this late stage when they have visited many times before. Well we are nearly there, glad we have BC completion cert, just the warranty to deal with.

Apologies I hadn't seen this response, for some reason it hadn't notified me!

I've got these in my black book of suppliers have a look to see if what you want is in there https://stairpartsdirect.co.uk/product-category/metal/

It's a long while since I posted on here and got some great advice regarding ASHP etc, well I'm deep into construction mode and now getting into the little details, but very important details all the same. My blockwork sits 22mm below the sips panel frame as per window designer and architects agreement, I need fire rated cavity closer and I'm in the process of about to order which has led me down a rabbit hole, if I use a cavity closer like this attached and recommended by the companies tech department then it wont sit straight in the cavity, is this acceptable or would i then just use a compriband to pack it up which means its not really doing what it should be. I've attached the window drawing and what's been suggested to use, is there something else out there that would fit the remit required. I'm trying to get an answer from my architect but having no luck currently, any pointers much appreciated Cheers Mark Window Sketch KF.pdf

Try FH Brundle, or a local gates and railings place could sort them for you.

Unless it is likely to be very wet there, I'd consider painting in bitumen. Use Blackjack starting with a diluted (water) coat as it will penetrate cracks and crevices. Then a slightly diluted coat over joints and then everywhere, and then a full gunge one. An extra coat over mortar and at the base too. A tar brush is often best.

Well that's a result and goes to show how inconsistent regulation can be. We supplied a statement by the plumber that he had tested the drains upon completing the works to building control and that was accepted. Could you try the same with your warranty provider. Plugging the top end of an installed svp when all the scaffolding has gone is a real pain.

Our daughter is moving into a Edwardian terraced "do'er upper" shortly. It has a kitchen but it's a poorly assembled bunch of cheap units with previously a gas cooker. We want to tidy it up and install an electric hob and oven I acquired 2nd hand locally, hardly used. The electrical inspection revealed that the mains lead water pipe isn't earthed and I can see there are only a few ring main sockets, no oven outlet or the like. The mains incomer is adjacent the front door so I've got to run cables from there right through the house to the back kitchen to feed the new oven and hob plus an earth cable for the lead pipe (it'll be mdpe eventually but I'm older now and these things take time). Now I can run these myself which allows us to get some carpets down on the first floor leaving a sparks to do the work either end. I have enough 4mm earth cable and a cable with twin 6mm + 2.5 conductors, left over from my own house build for this. However are these sufficient? The oven draws a max 2.3kW and the hob 4.8kW - 5.8kW according to the instructions. Thanks

UPDATE COMPLETION CERT SUPPLIED BY BC, NO EV CHARGER REQUESTED. DITTO GULLY FOR BINS. WE HAVE TO SEE WHAT THE WARRANTY PROVIDER'S BC SAY (ALTHOUGH THEY WOULDN'T CARRY OUT THEIR FINAL INSPECTION UNTIL NORMAL BC HAD PROVIDED COMPLETION CERT). WARRANTY PROVIDER AT THIS LATE STAGE IS ASKING FOR A DRAIN TEST 😔