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Exactly the same logic. They are generally in compression from the floor above, or just supporting cupboards, but the strength thing is the same: there is plenty if hollowing the regulations.

That one installed panel is the one without the evacuated tubes fitted. It was the one where they were all smashed to hell. Still need to get new ones. So that's both rails fitted, tiles back. Was way too hot to carry on. Even the stainless of the panels were scorching to the touch / bare arm etc! My sense of symmetry is now not offended too much:

I’m not sure if your picture is up to date, and reflects the words, but I can’t see double thickness battens around the windows for fire stopping? You need infill battens between your horizontal ones to act as a cavity barrier. Except for the obvious ventilation requirements, the thing that was always in the back of my mind when doing the detail for ours was any water running down the cavity above a window. I didn’t want a surface where this water would sit on, and potentially start migrating back towards the head of the window (or sit on a batten constantly). Might have been overly cautious, but I’d rather that than the other way around. The water could be condensation, wind driven rain etc. Cladding suppliers I have used previously typically want at least 10mm gap at the top and bottom of the cavity.

That is about 2.9 MWh of primary energy.

I mentioned it before the weekend on another thread. Not far fetched. I used a referral and got £25, then on Friday an export earned £4.85 from Axel plus got paid by Octopus as well at 12p/kWh. They also state you will earn £10 per month. if you would like a referral code, just ask.

It's a bit like saying how much gas will I use. The log usage (cost) really depends on the house heat loss and how hard you need to burn. When we run our 6kW log burner, we run it at very low loads, one log at a time, so about 2 logs has burn time of 3 to 4 hrs, you may have a higher heat loss so run 3 to 4 logs and lots of air, so get through loads more than me. Cost also depends on how you source the logs. We have plenty of wood from cuts down down the build so zero cost, except my time. Way to many variables to give you a cost that is meaningful.

Those are the NICEIC guidelines. The actual regulations, which are the only thing that really matter, do not specify a distance. Ideally follow the guidelines, but if you don't quite meet those distances then no harm done imo.

5 Kw Wood burner running 27/7 from 1st Nov. to Mid April used about 8 cuM of home produced wood. Stove would be shut down on low burn a lot of the time. Now GSHP UFH etc but still light a stove for 1-2 hrs in winter , don’t need it but it’s nice and we have the wood.

I was thinking 100mm from hob, 300 from sink.

Yes, mostly. The Building Regulations went metric in 1972 and the construction industry followed by 1975. However, to add confusion, some products haven't actually change dimensions while others have.

Our air gap is defined by the counter battens - 22mm. I used stainless rodent mesh 8g from Robinson wire cloth - more worried about mice than bugs round here. 150mm x 30m rolls worked well. I did try keep some gap around window head and cills but with the way it went together its probably onlt 5mm at best. Like you, I trust lateral movement of air will be sufficient. https://timberdevelopment.uk/resources/the-timber-cladding-handbook/ Worth a read.

We all use inches on conversation for convenience. But these dims don't exist. The sizes are sold as advertised in mm. I phone the B M and ask for 20 lengths of 4.8m of 6x2. They don't ask if I mean 145 x 45. For heavy structural timber it will come in sawn finish. When dressed to avoid splinters it reduces in size but not a lot. There was a time when most timbers went through a bending machine which translated approximately to strength. Then this was samples, then by sight of grain and knots. Now we just sort of trust it. But C16 and C24 are visibly different. I would think that an average timber selected at random then tested for deflection and to failure, would exceed the rated strength by a distance because of various factors of safety which combine. And then we allow safety factors in the design loading.

Needs to be 300mm minimum from the hob (or sink) from memory...

No, no, no, no, yes, yes, no, no, no. Don't worry hob run is 2.2m long with a socket towards either end, well clear of the hob itself.

It's the seals. Brush and sliding seals just don't work anywhere as well as compression seals.

A laser level head and sole plate and stand them studs between them. Shims behind and concrete screw through the studs to the brick wall intermittently to brace it. A parge coat will dry very quickly. You could do it straight away.

Use a waterless trap then you don’t need to be home. im as crazy as you, see pic.

^ or even better a waterless trap

Looks like we are going to stick with 910 for the alleyway. We don't have the dishwasher problem as have gone for F&P dishdrawers. Moving the table 700 from the wall on the other side is significantly better than 650. Someone sat eating will need 450mm from the table - at 700mm total this leaves 250mm behind their chair - but if they do the usual temporary pull in of chair to let their neighbour out, then you get about 300mm behind the chair and most people can then slip out. In addition at 700mm you can stand against the edge of the table with the chair behind your legs and it is still clear of the wall. So this allows people to side step to the middle chair, cinema seat style and then sit down. Likewise they can get out this way if the person alongside pops out or swings their legs sideways. So we get, 700mm from wall, 900mm table, 150mm chair fully in, leaving 1150mm passage alongside island with no-one eating. With someone eating we get 300mm less alleyway or 850mm - still plenty of room to fetch and serve behind them. For the odd dinner party we might temporarily move the table out to 750mm or even 800mm for fat uncle albert. It is Mr & Mrs Albert O'Nuts and their drunken son pissed-Archie-O-Nuts 🤣😬🤮 When people come and inevitably mill about chatting while the meal is cooking, we hope the 910mm alley will help keep them on the far side of the island rather than getting under the cooks feet on 'the wrong side'. (PS We could I suppose knock it down and build a bigger extension, but I think I said that before when it was 2.2m wide.😉)

Wait a moment. More pictures needed, but you are not planning to put it in the middle of the hob behind it are you?

Shelled out a fiver for a pair of aviation snips for the toolbox which went through like a knife through butter - box out. Just have to get in a new one symmetrical with the other side of the hob, but they won't be templating for the glass splashback for a while.

FWIW, I established with my FiT administrator that it should be OK to add balcony solar to an existing house that has deemed exports: https://www.earth.org.uk/note-on-GB-FiT-and-plug-in-solar.html

We had a completely free choice as left/right wasn't a consideration. We tried 1200mm and felt it was a little too large. In the end the aesthetic and practical choice was to align the worktop in order to have both corridors the same. In practice this has worked extremely well As a comparison I attach the same picture as SuperPaulie's 1200mm example plus the plan view from which we made the decision Regards Tet

Would it still need to be plugged if there is a water seal in the drain trap?

Standard leakage current trip is 30mA so what have you increased it to?