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Has he actually measured that temperature. It a stupidly high temperature, as it strips all the oils from you skin. So are trying to set up something to deliberately scold people? Why would you want a shower at 50 degs output?

Or find a barn. I've fallen down the rabbit hole of watching people build boats on Youtube recently and while you can build a boat in little more than a makeshift tent, it would be a much easier experience if you have a inside space to do it in. Better still if you can maintain a level of environmental control (especially if working with resins). Having said all that, building a boat, even a smallish one, is a very long term commitment in both time and money and you'd likely be a lot better off if you just bought a second hand boat that suites your needs (I'm sure you know this but worth saying anyway).

My sister in law is the same. Complains heating is too expensive to use. It comes on 1 hour each morning and one hour in the evening. Radiators too hot to touch. The rooms heat up quickly, and then cool down again quickly when it goes off and most of the day the house is cold. I tried suggesting we turn down the boiler flow temperature to something much lower and run the heating for longer. She could check on her in in home display and see how much gas was used and see if it used more or less gas than the present scheme. But she would not even let us try it. "That is the way the plumber set it, so it must be right"

It’s gravity fed with a booster pump. I used one of those basin wrenches but I think I may have caught the pipe a few times with it? Not really sure how it happened to be honest. should I replace it straight away? Could it burst while out of the house job? Thanks Nick

Friend of mine is replacing a ancient Triton T80Z shower, he likes his showering temp at up around 43C, this is no problem with a standard T80Z Fast (or Easi) Fit as the Temperature control (actually a flow control) can be turned clockwise right up to the point where the TCO (thermal cut out) will shut off the heating elements at 48/50C, he would like to install the thermostatic version but if this limits the max showering temperature to 40/41C then will just install the standard version. There is no info in the MIs about this. If someone has one of these (thermostatic) showers they might, while outside the shower, with both elements energized, slowly keep turning the temperature control clockwise to its stop at around 5 oclock and, then ideally, measure this temperature, or estimate it, if the water runs cold before the control reaches its stop then this will be easily felt as the TCO doesn't kill the power until 48/50C.

Is it mains pressure or gravity fed? I had to squint to see the damage, but unfortunately it is there. The hose needs to be replaced imo as the braiding has very little mechanical purchase on that compressed ring and it’ll be very reliant on that to stop any further unravelling. These are cheap, go get a new one Out of curiosity, are you using the wrong tools for this job?

Or love us for preventing a flood

Yes that's well spotted too, I did see but ignored them. People will hate posting pics in case we find more problems in the back ground.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Xcel-Home-Kitchen-Monobloc-Connector/dp/B084VRQDLR?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A12J0USM5ZYMIK

Well spotted. I guess we should consider mention the leaking, rotten flexi's feeding hot and cold into the mono-block mixer tap.

Is this a long term project? Do you really need to buy and get PP? Have you looked at renting an industrial unit instead?

The washer is cross threaded, either a new washer or what they said above.

Pack on top and under the washer with say Sikaflex, BT1 etc. Push the trap down into it until it squidges out but DO NOT let it turn as you tighten the black nut. Wipe the excess off with the cheapest, unscented baby wipes and leave to set.

it’s damaged at the top of the hose right at the connection point. anyone help would save me a lot of worry

Perhaps there is time? I will add this. Some egg sucking info to be sure, as other people may be reading.. Trees drink water from the ground. if that ground is sand you just get dry sand and it is still strong. But clay is thousands of horizontal layers of silt from ancient lake beds, and there is water between the layers. So when it dries the volume reduces and the layers draw closer together, usually causing vertical shrinkage. A building with foundations on it will settle. If it is uniform then nobody really notices. Then come winter it gets wet and rises again. No harm done. The surface dries first of course because of direct heat from the sun, and because trees have tiny roots there. The hole we dug in clay last week is 1.5m deep and utterly dry. Last winter it was like plasticine. But if there is a thirsty tree or a pond on one side then it will affect the nearby wall more than others. Again it will probably recover to level but it may take longer. If someone has meantime filled any cracks or underpinned, it can cause stress elsewhere. I think the insurance industry has come to realise that they shouldn't rush the decision and it needs a proper SE to advise.

Talking through setting up heating with wife's friend earlier in the week. 4 bedroom 70s house, only have the lounge radiator on flow 75 degs. Set for a couple hours or in the morning and same at night, they are there all day. Boiler just short cycles as it can't get the heat away. Only two radiators engaged. Got them to open most the TRVs to give boiler something to work against, heating on all day and said to keep reducing flow once per day until house doesn't heat up - then add a bit of heat they have a combi. They had typical cold feet syndrome typical of radiators running stupidly high temperatures. Most stupid thing, room sealed modern boiler and their plumbers said they need a vent through the wall because they had a boiler.

Washer is shot? New washer and or plumber's gunk (thread compound that does not harden) on it and the thread.

by the great administrator.

Generally storing a chattel on land that is movable does not require planning permission ( this is a basic response 'cos planning is a complex subject - national parks, AONB etc) so you could argue that your boat is a personal possession will be movable in due course, is not permanent and thus should not be liable to PP. It all comes down to the attitude of the LPA and how much fuss neighbouring owners make. On a piece of industrial land there are likely to be fewer complaints and thus little LPA interest compared to doing this on the verge in a Cotswold village. In the latter situation the LPA can be very creative in order to pacify the public and so the aggravation factor is going to be larger. Stick to somewhere where you will blend in more. My biggest concern is whether you have been instructed to build this boat and collect animals two by two in the anticipation of .................

Do I need to replace this flexi I think I damaged it a bit changing the tap at the very start near connector it’s hose is exposed more

Is it a boat you want to build, or a pond to float it in? One thing that has always crossed my mind is what costs are involved in owning a small bit of land i.e. land taxes, insurances, access permissions.

What PP would I need to buy a small plot of land to build a boat on for my own use ? Most likley an ex industry use yard or other brownfield site but could be agricultural land or a barn.

Managed to get the plug clicker out. Reinstalled but getting very slight dripping from the black bit, just seeping out. Any ideas why? It’s super tight

Made me laugh - it was a sad laugh tho How many people would consider setting up their heating system to be more efficient or even getting a heating engineer in to do it Rads not balanced or correctly sized to the room, flow temps not adjusted with the season just set to a fixed temp and left there all winter - I've said it before but the move from non condensing boilers to condensing boilers was mostly wasted in terms of efficiency improvements for many houses in the UK because the rads stayed the same and so did the flow temps.

In the oil industry, there is a distinction between Produce and Refine. I lived on a West Indian island that produced no petroleum products at all, but refined 335,000 barrel/day. In the past the USA used a lot of heating oil for domestic heating. This is not the case so much these days. https://www.costinspector.com/research/home-heating-fuel