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You seem keen to get a report from a SE. Most will deal with this competently. Let us know what they say.

What suprised me were the channels in the formers were not filled with foam, just air gaps. I understand pvc windows are like this but I expected eps within the closers having used the off the shelf ones before. They have a bba cert so they must be good for their stated performance.

As @torre the premade ones are so much better than the off the shelf jobs. I've used them before wouldnt mess about any other way on 150mm cavity construction. To answer your actual question they are stable enough for the brickies to build in as they go. You may find for doors they will set a profile or straight edge up the reveal also.

Max rating of the pipe. I didn't check before I sent it but I thought generally the plastic pipe makers were ok upto 80/90C. You wouldn't want to run like that* but they need to be able to stand behind the product if someone does. * Older hospitals, hotels, etc, often have very hot loops and mix down near the consumers.

I refer the honourable gentleman to the answer i gave some moments (weeks)ago. Listen to what @Nickfromwales said, There is a much cheaper option than CVC for it.

Is it worth approaching your planning department as, with your new solar panels, it will be most certainly NOT like-for-like. Given that all local councils like to big-up their green credentials then an amendment/new planning application might allow you to consider other, less expensive, material choices Regards Tet

Double glazing at 1.2Ug, isn’t bad at all but expected Ug now for double glazed. I can only suggest getting a system that can handle the weight.

Factory glued but also done on site when required, as sometimes you need to fix through the frame and glass needs to be supplied loose.

Do the installers glue the unit in when window fitted then or do they come factory glued?

You get £1 from them and whatever the utility company pay, so for us £1.12 per kWh

They need to tie in to your meter, they also tie into your battery/inverter so they can automate everything. But also provide an API for home assistant app and a setup guide for home assistant also. If you want a referral code to get £25 https://vpp.axle.energy/landing?ref=R-VYFYIHBL

We have our bedroom window open until heating season, then it's closed. But being in Scotland we have to CO2 monitor in our bedroom, it records and gives peak and average readings. I used it tune flow rate to bedroom with bedroom door closed also. So we kept CO2 level at a low but sensible level. Once set there is no need to continually monitor and react.

I use one of these in one of my MVHR units https://ebay.io/m/evTvz0. Site in a simple junction box and sensor goes in the air distribution box on the return side. My MVHR is all based on zero volt signals. Brink etc all seem to be based around an expensive ecosystem.

I'd suggest using 40mm pir filled double skin. It is a good balance between stiffness and practicabiliry, price, insulation. And it will be much the same height as you have already. Flashings and seals need detailing Easy to source too at about £40/m2. BUT, with waste that's coming to 10k already. Plus vat. So let's say 10k sheeting 2 for sundries Gutter 3 Scaffold towers etc 2 2 workers x 3 or 4 days say 2k Tool hire 1. 20k and rising. Plus vat. Plus the risk that you make mistakes. Are the purlins OK?

Eh? What spec is that?! Hottest I ever recirculate is 55-57°. 80° should never be allowed out of the water cylinder. Ever.

Reading their web site this seems to be in parallel with your utility co? Also not easy to see if you can sign up with a non approved battery system and manage the export through Home Assistant or other automation. If they aren't the utility and you can do it through your own automation, it seems like a no brainer. But I'll ask if they intend to ass Sunsynk to their approved list.

Yeah I'm not 100% sure. Both my AI's reckon fitting a male tapered into to female parallel is commonly done and acceptable practice, below may be nonsense but this is what it spat out when asked: "The R-into-Rp arrangement is genuinely standard — that part is correct. A tapered male (BSPT/R) screwing into a parallel female (BSPP/Rp), sealed with PTFE or a thread sealant, is explicitly permitted under BS 21 / ISO 7-1 and is honestly the most common pressure-tight joint in UK domestic plumbing — most valves, boilers, and radiator tails are connected exactly this way. So mechanically, there's nothing wrong with that combination in general." Admittably the instructions for the valve specifically said not to use tapered threads, however it also made a few contradictory statements. In the end I could thread male tapered fittings entirely into the female parallel ports without any friction or stress; with the addition of Lock tight 55 these joints have passed 5.5 Bar wet pressure test and current not weeping. and will hopefully remain that way. I always have in my head that the leak risk will be less where fewer joints are used, so yes these Hep2o couplers are tapered, but they get made straight onto Hep2o pipework so it's six of one......

I will tell hubby this, but he probably won't agree 🙂 This is what we did on the small roof, the posi joists are in place with temp sheets.

Planning stipulates metal, to be replace like for like, although we won't be using the old tin shed look, but maybe profile steel. I had some quotes and they were scary so we might have to DIY. One company wanted 40k just for the roof, no solar and no batteries!!!!

Down here, there is only 1 24/7 gas station. Most of the rest close at 8PM during the winter. Was not that long ago (in my mind) that the country was brought to a virtual standstill when the fuel depots where blockaded (Year 2000). Was talking to a workmate who was talking about getting a hybrid (a shit 48V one). I asked why not a full BEV. Her reply "I am going to be driving to Camborne 4 days a week". So a total of 120 miles and she can use a Granny lead at home for the 10 kWh a day it will use.

I've been using AI to brainstorm, and this is its plan, does this sound logical, has it missed anything? Im aware AI can make mistakes hence asking the exerts here! 1. Instruct a RICS Level 3 Building Survey first ( RICS-regulated) or (local MRICS team). This one report covers both structural movement and damp, flags repairs before you spend, and typically sits in the low four figures depending on size/age . Take the written report (with photos and prioritised defects) to your builder/architect when you request tenders, so every bidder prices the same known scope rather than inflating contingency for unknowns. If the survey finds structural defects, hand those to a chartered structural engineer (StructSpectrum or Heddon Structures) to produce repair calculations and drawings for Building Control — this turns "something's wrong" into a priced, defined job. Hold a 10–15% contingency on top of tenders for genuinely unforeseen conditions that even a good on-site inspection cannot predict. Fix the fee in writing up front — ask for a fixed-fee quote that says what's included and what would attract extra charges, since structural engineers commonly charge for time plus expenses and unforeseen site conditions often add work .

Hot is only really hot while the water is running. Then it will cool down. Constantly circulating hot loop will always be hot, and given the specs they have to assume the water will be 80C+ continuously.

CVC included the humidity sensor in my quote for the Brink, recognising that you do need one. It’s not integral with the unit though, not that that matters.

Curious - I can't think why it's ok for hot feeds but not for recirculating.

Ah interesting, I hadn't clocked the bit about the humidity sensor - a bit dumb that it wouldn't have. BTW cheapest places I could find were TradeSparky for the Zehnder and CVC for the Brink. This thing? https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/en_GB/p/brink-excellent-rv-humidity-sensor/5791/ Seems expensive. I was planning boost in the bathrooms and kitchen and maybe a co2 sensor in our bedroom as I think my other half is very sensitive to this - she wants the bedroom window open all year round - even in minus degrees.