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Id reach out to a local metal fabricator who deals in this sort of thing, i know it will be adding another opinion, but they will most likley be fabricating and fitting these kind of details on a weekly basis. Onsite welding can tricky to acheive consistent results, bolted connections are often easier to retrofit.

Not "chartered"? I'm one of them. MICE or FICE. And CEng comes with it. 4 years uni and 4 years min real world training. I'd never use the word 'registered'. A huge element of gaining that professional status is communication and collaboration. That's why it seems strange to me that you say that is lacking. It's possible they are a technician rather than Chartered. Nothing wrong with that, but their experience may be limited, as may be their insurance. Unfortunately the term civil engineer is not protected, as witness the white vans. But would you? Probably 3 or 4 x the cost at minimum brief. It's all learning. Glad to hear it's moving along.

This is tonights event covers a pretty big area

I would not object if my neighbour built that, but it appears to fail permitted development on so many levels (pun intended). Of course he may have got PP for it, but if not, I would not be making it "public" by putting it on television. It appears to overhang a fence. Either it overhangs someone else's land, or his fence is not on the boundary.

Check the area of the event, it could be very local. Not sure if octopus prices are nationwide for agile or whether they too are local. The VPP is designed to alleviate local grid stress rather than national

Right, it's supposed to be a dry day today, so I'll just chip the peeling stuff, clean and paint over.

Replacing current top entirely with corian-type would be by far the best choice here, imho. Aesthetically too, by a mile. If you want cheap & cheerful, then good quality bathroom paint on all surfaces (inside & outside). Wonderful stuff. Why glass? If you had natural wood grain under it, that would be understandable, but your top is already covered with a thick layer of paint - might as well be upvc underneath it, nobody will ever tell the difference. Same comment holds for yacht varnish - you want to put it over the paint? 🫣 If this a toilet or a bath/shower room? The latter will have high humidity - a piece of splash glass won't be much help.

Does seem strange, just looked at ours, peak runs from 4pm to 7pm and drops 3p at the Axle event. No idea why

Hmmm...🤔 As lovely as it is did they get planning permission? Surrey...guessing they've a few quid. Surely it's too high? Sleeping and eating in there? Pics of the girl in her dressing gown and sipping a cuppa??? https://www.borntoengineer.com/mushroom-shed-of-the-year-2017

Just had a look at the local Octopus agile outgoing rates and their evening peak seems to be an hour earlier than Axles event. Anyone know why the Axle event and Octopuses outgoing peak don't align??

1 to 1.2m seems to be the rule of thumb for valleys. My valley had been done in a 3.5 m single length. It had crinkled up and split on the south west elevation

Will try and post up more pics when I find a way to shrink them below 2mb!

For us ice blasting was perfect. Aside from minimal mess, the beams had multiple layers of paint, a lot of it very soft. Ice blasting is perfect for this as it freezes and shatters it. Sand blasting or bead blasting works really well on hard paint on a hard surface. Traditional blasting on a soft paint means slower progress and so likely more damage to the substrate. Especially on softer woods that are not oak for example. Though bead is clearly better than sand. Ice blasting is a fantastic way of cleaning, but a lot of "gear" and expensive dry ice. The lack of mess was certainly a bonus.

After a career setback over the summer, I needed a project so built myself an outdoor shower. it works really well. Id like to still be able to use it over the winter when I truly hate myself, but I'm trying to think of ways of winter proofing it. The hot and cold feed are in 25mm walk thick insulation outside, and 10mm thick through the unheated single garage. My concern is around the valve mechanism and how insulate it, per pictures below? I have isolation valves inside the house, and intend to fit drain valves on the hot and cold pipes below shower AND at the lowest pipe exiting the shower valve at the bottom. Just welcome any other suggestions!

What is the maximum length of lead flashing in a single length I should use? I have some long windows and have read about allowing for expansion/contraction of lead, but want to hear from experience in this group as to what you would do? window lengths: 1900mm 2500mm 4700mm TIA

She is a registered Civil Engineer and her details are on the register. I was very clear in the brief as to what I wanted. All of my woes stem from using a cheap Architectural Designer, who was solely focussed on building reg drawings. If doing this again, I'd pay a good architect who handles the liaison with the SE and ensures that all of this is done up front.

I'll see what the boss thinks but if I use 10mm thick glass with a 10mm dubbed overhang hopefully water won't track back. I could try to treat the underside with something hydrophobic to help. At the corners, the glass could go of the silicone bumpers below [link]and under the sink itself I can happily use some sealant. The glass (1150mm x 450mm) needs a big hole (190mm) cut it in to allow the waste and tap tails, but that will hopefully be alright given the 10mm thickness. The bumpers are 2mm thick, so that would leave a gap between the glass and top which is probably good for water but could allow insects to crawl in there and die which would be a major nuisance. Maybe a routed trench and silicone tubing would be a better option.

If it is listed then that is the case. Even if not lusted, it is heritage, and you are the current custodian. I have seen this disputed vehemently "my house, my decision", but it is the case. Or an axe.

There are a bunch of blasting options - bead blasting is another. Can’t imagine that this is really ‘illegal’ - after all you could also use your sander… There’s also oxalic acid - often used to remove stains and bleach the wood a little bit. We need to do ours. Have heard that ice blasting is a bit lightweight.

Just rolled in to an email from Axle saying our first event is on tomorrow 7-8 pm. Just upped the max SOC to 100% so hopefully there'll be enough juice for them to take the max they can

That depends what you've asked for and they have offered. E.g there is a big difference if you ask simply what size of lintel or please visit site and design the lintel and draw up all working details with specification, as this may well be carried out by a highly competent contractor. Did you find out their stated qualifications. I'm not especially doubting it but interested.

Go down to 2 bottles, retaining the automatic changeover. Just for the hob, it will be a year or more before one needs refilling.

I will post some images tomorrow. But thanks for showing an interest. Ideally, I expect SE to be totally responsible for all calcs and drawings. I'm just the end client who knows nothing about that discipline.

This may well be the case. The English BC system can be much less rigorous then the Scottish system for example. But in all cases BC are not their to check or take liability for calculations for example. Their role is to exercise reasonable skill and care to determine if your submissions generally appear to be sufficient to meet the regs in the round. If you read the fine print of BC approval you'll find that the real liability rests with you and your appointed designers. If you miss something then BC are pretty much off the hook. @saveasteading has written at length about this in the past. I've suggested you post some info, photographs etc. It's up to your how much you want to explore. I'm curious as to how the box section is going to be buildable, the orientation for example and how it works.