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Here too. We're only a mile from the Solent, so external humidity is generally higher.

Possibly, but it's a case of six or two threes. Temp at 8pm yesterday when it would normally switch to night mode was still 30c, and was 27c when I went to bed at 11.30pm. I decided there was no point pulling in air that was going to need cooling.

Generally yes, but only if humidity is lower outside than in. Where I am, humidity is still high, and is forecast to rise through the night into the high 80s. Thankfully it should drop a fair bit through tomorrow.

One of my current projects today

As @Russell griffiths above. Gaulhofer 4.5 meter window -open 10mm for the last few days and locked in place, right next to the dog's cage. Why 10mm? So the bloody cats can't drop blood-soaked presents off for the dog, just outside her cage . little sods.

Aren't you better to run the MVHR at the normal speed. Then the MVHR actively pulls the humidity out the house, moving dew point upwards.

Ditto Jack, we've never had this before, but we've also had the MVHR running slower than normal (speed 1 rather than lifting to speed 3 overnight).

I lowered the flow temp on our underfloor cooling from 16 deg to 14 deg a few days ago, in anticipation of the several day heat wave. The surface of the door (polished concrete) slowly fell to a minimum of 18.7 deg a couple of days ago. It's slowly drifted up to 18.9 deg since. In the middle of the afternoon today, I noticed some darker spots on the surface of the concrete. Within three hours of noticing that, entire sections of the floor in the kitchen were slightly damp. We've never seen so much as a whiff of moisture in 7 or 8 years of using underfloor cooling. It's amazing what a two degree flow temperature difference coupled with high humidity (~80 inside at the moment!) can do. I've turned the flow temp back up and will monitor.

The handle on our lift n slide from norrsken lifts the door up from the lower track, you can slide it open any amount you want 50mm- 1200mm or whatever, then turn the handle and drop the door back down, that’s it, it’s not moving not 1mm unless you pulled it with a truck.

Perfect solution - glad I could help

This was at 13.35 today. We have hard (Karndean) flooring throughout. Had a few areas where the surface has got a little damp this afternoon, but I can live with that.

Here's ours being installed. @Russdl's look way smarter and low profile, perhaps because of the distance from the ground. You can see the clamps being installed, they have a disk that sits 15mm above the seam. We've had no issue with birds trying to go underneath. I wish I could have fitted three rows of panels on that South facing elevation 😕

Wet as in slopping around the barrow. Left it about two years I think before tiling just to make sure!

I have found that if there is an existing driveway and dwelling, unless your proposal makes the arrangement worse, highways, planning and the fire service don't get too busy with it.

Yeah, maybe "watering it" was the wrong terminology

and then I want more.

Absoluely awesome tbf! Adil.Sharif@vent-axia.com say Pocster sent you (mention my massive cock - he'll know who you mean) - actually don't mention that.....

How are comms with them best done? Is there an email ? My unit is just outside 5yr warranty (going by the purchase date but not if you count the actual switch-on comissioning date which was months later) but it'd be worth a punt.

Will do.

No, the damp is within the walls, its not damp inside the interior. That's why we didn't realise that it was so bad. Its fine inside. So we will need to remove the interior wall and see whats happening behind. But we plan to enjoy it for the summer then when we aren't likely to want to use it for a while, we'll take a look. But i agree, the number one priority is to stop the water getting in.. Unfortunely there are lots of seams! and all will need to be re-sealed as we dont know exactly which bits are letting the water in. as it is 17 yrs old, I am assuming it all needs doing anyway. I'm going to be busy😄

How wet was the mix and how long before you could tile it?

About 5.3m wide & 6.4m deep (external measurement for the slab). I'm planning a ring beam, hung off screw piles then I'll build up the middle with hardcore & 70mm crushed concrete, non-woven membrane then sand blind the middle, get my DPM in, tape it up to prevent leaks around the screw piles & joins (self compacting concrete leaks almost like water, I have learned), rebar mesh on some castles & tied to the screw piles so it doesn't float, then I'll have some ready mix SCC delivered. I'm thinking a chute will do - I don't want to pay for a pump. I'm expecting the SCC will just flow to where it needs to go & won't require too much work to push it around. I could tamp using the top of the shuttering, which I will set with a laser, but I don't think tamping will be required. For SCC, I know I definitely shouldn't work it with a poker, as this would ruin the homogenous nature of the mix, & weaken it considerably. I've decided to forgo a layer of insulation in the slab, so I only have to pay for one concrete delivery. A while ago, I worked out that mixing this volume of concrete myself would not be any cheaper than ready mix (for ordinary concrete), & I'm expecting the SCC to be around £300 more than ordinary concrete, whilst saving a lot of bother. I have very little practical building experience, although I have succeeded in making two concrete garage bases, most recently 20 years ago, & not with SCC, so any critique of my plan will be most welcome, please.

Give me strength!. Discussions about an efficient looking tree.... and then it cant render a (expletive deleted)ing cube!

😃. yeah I think those marks were left by blocks that might have been there a bit of time.... Like 1 month ..... or 6...... or perhaps it was a yr or 2 🫠 BUT! As a long term experiment which therefore stops me fixing it now its a very plausible test!

Put another concrete block in a non visible area so you can test it there?