All Activity

Exactly. We'll never have a Norway model or a National Wealth Fund as the capitalist mindset is too deeply ingrained in British politics, even amongst allegedly socialist parties. Paying the bills today, is far more important to politicians than squirreling away a fund for the future prosperity of the nation. Just wait until a certain 'Ltd company' oversees UK politics - money and oil will flow, but not towards any sovereign fund. Any thoughts of ringfencing this for the carbon win - let alone any percieved taxpayer benefit - is just pie in the sky.

Have you considered a mist system instead? I’m in the middle of a clients build, and suggested “automatic fire suppression” was considered, even though it wasn’t mandated. A mist system is far less impactful, doesn’t need a huge water mains pipe, and causes WAY less property damage than a sprinkler system does. Price is either comparable or way cheaper, depending on a crazy amount of extra kit being required for sprinklers.

Its not easy, if the outside temperature trending has shown to be utter rubbish - weather station being 40 miles away doesn't help, so getting AI to build a compensation system look forward and backwards on an hourly basis. But its all fun for the mind

It would be unusual to have a fireplace in an external wall? is that the case here? If not why the insulation?

Although the design isn't done yet, in my case, the consultant has talked about 3 manifolds, none of which will be adjacent to the ASHP and each one is on a different GF height level, so routing is on my mind. it might be common sense, but it seems as though he's going to include this in his design.

I just meant supply and fit of the supply and returns not the ufh loop. I didnt realise a plan or drawing was needed to route these 2 pipes thinking you'd just take them straight to where they need to go but sounds like @Mulberry View has to run through the floor?

The collective knowledge is vast and varied, to which add the collective centuries of experience. The more you share, the better the advice. "A problem with the title". Can you share more?

For all duch questions we need more info. So for this one. What is the construction? Timber buards on joists? What distance to the ground? Have you a hatch or have you taken a board up? What do you see? To tell you where my instinct is heading, I'd be thinking of spreading a polythene sheet over the ground to keep the moisture below it. There will be a severe limit to what you can do and the sensible improvement. You can test the dampness of the concrete floors or for £100 hire a boring machine so you see, snd show us, the construction and if there is a dpm. Or assume there isn't, and apply a liquid dpm.

A mixture of construction styles. The majority of the house is uninsulated cavity walls with so far unknown type of DPC (assuming DPC is present at all). External ground levels might have been raised through the decades. House has been unoccupied for about 8 months and has been neglected for several years prior to that. For the first week we've been waking up to 75% humidity, but I've cleaned & fixed all the gutters, fixed two obvious roof leaks, started clearing overgrown plants from the external walls and have been keeping the windows open every chance I got - we're now waking up to 65% RH. Still very high in my books, but it's moving in the right direction. I only have 2 dehumidifiers and I'm thinking of investing in 2 more (suggestions welcome). Kitchen and 3 bedrooms appear to have solid concrete flooring, while living room, 2 extended bedrooms and utility room seem to be suspended flooring - initial spot inspections suggest that at least part of that flooring is over plain ground without any vapour barrier. Would be interested to hear your thoughts on modern ways to manage suspended flooring in particular. I'm not planning to go for the nuclear option of pouring concrete everywhere & would rather work with what I have & improve it where I can.

+1, but I doubt I’ll ever be this focussed on micro-control of my heating, just too many variables in my household; timing / number of occupants, and more. My stat responds to our needs pretty well tbf, but obvs different build fabrics make a big difference here. Mine is crap.

Title problems can sometimes be fixed with negotiation? By all means get in touch with me, you can find me easily on the internet or DM me. But in the round my preference would be for you to share as much info on BH as you can, to benefit other members. I without doubt don't know everything! I enjoy learning from others on BH. Stick with BH for now.

Accepted

We don't enjoy doing this, trust me, but it's for your own good...... 😉😆

Soz about looking at floor and not the wall. I'll go back to the corner

Shut your face-ya. lol.

Ive been stood there like a naughty boy looking at the floor until the next post came up to gain my attention. Thanks Nick. My legs were starting to ache a bit.

Can you go and stand in the corner, face the wall, and we'll tell you when you can come and join the class again.

Looks like you've bought 'commercial' units. DALI stuff needs external control. https://www.nvcuk.com/technical-support/view/what-is-dali-8

Wiring diagram please!?

Roller twice with trade white, and get your ass to the pub

Not sure which room is which ( take sliding doors to indicate one most used rooms?), nor how old kids are, but how about wide tread, shallow steps down? Not necessarily cheap but would give view downs to grass and double up as extra seats? (Could be done more cheaply to start with, grass treads over sleepers or like with a view to a paved version in future)

Not the point I was making. Cables run in insulation overheat, so in the regs it states you should avoid this; if you cannot then you MUST upsize the cable (considerably) or downsize the circuit protective device accordingly. As a 16yr old apprentice for SWEB, we were asked to connect a 3kw 3bar electric fire up with 20m of 1.0mm twin & earth cable, and run a test on how hot it got. It actually coped OK sat on the concrete floor of the training centre. We were then told to roll out 20m of loft insulation, lay the cable on it, and then to fold it over the cable, and repeat the same test. Then followed molten PVC and a very short but loud bang as the cable went nuclear.

Like an utter moron, i forgot to make clear that the 2g solar glazed v 3g std glazed part of this question relates to the rooflight only. The slider and window are going to be 2g only. They have been leaning towards 2g opening Velux rooflight with solar glass, but i feel a standard triple glazed unit offers more for the same cost. If the room gets hot during summer, and to some extent due to solar gain, they can open the roof window to allow warmer air out. The benefit of 3g during winter is surely a real advantage, as it has better ability to trap any rising warm air generated by UFH within the room. To my thinking, 2g with solar control glass is moot if you can vent the bloody heat out.

Is it correct for the undercloaking board to be angled at the end to sit over the fascia? I've seen quite a few new-ish wet verges where the undercloaking seems to be done with something thinner and more flexible looking than cement board, what might that be? Looking at the main house (and every house on my street), they've used upside down roof tiles...

This wall and drop is where we are stuck. We want to level the lawn so it has only a gentle slope. But we also want to see the lower lawn section but can't have a 1m retaining wall without a fall protection wall at the top. We will either be ditching the wall and just have a bank, or maybe a hybrid 600mm drop and then banking down to a total 1m drop over a 3 metres. We want to try to level off the lawn section as much as possible for kids to play on. Here's a picture from the FF window. It was taken just after midday, with sun from South on right hand side. Its funny how, now the house is built, its obvious that the kitchen window should have been on the back wall facing the garden at the rear, where the plant room is. Plant room should have been at the side of the house where there is no view out. Oh well, too late now. Looking out into the garden was on darling wife's list of priorities but she hasn't noticed this planning blunder yet. I'll not mention it. 😬 Our sewer connection is at the far right corner so we will need to drop a pipe under the lawn, and, I guess, an IC at the patio for a vertical drop, if we have a retaining wall. We have a set aside some budget for landscaping to include a wall if required. What to do 🤔