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I see. I have both these products already. Just have a habit of still calling them “silicone”. Thanks for clarity. And bonding compound for drywall not suitable? Tile adhesives is preferred?

Yeah, seen those, but it seems there is no ability to then add 320mm or 350mm riser on top of it. Something like this: https://www.tradepipes.co.uk/320mm-diameter-chamber-riser-135mm-high?source=googlebase&msclkid=d5cfa3ce6b6b1d0776b3c94ae6007d73&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping Campaign&utm_term=4577816667752085&utm_content=Underground Drainage

I'm sure he must just be talking about the bunch of pipes as it enters the living room. That's all that really changed between the earlier design. I wish I could jiggle with this myself, but I just can't get the software set up satisfactorily.

Wtf?!

Price is horrific, but shop around. https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/axedo-600mm-to-350mm-inspection-chamber-restrictor-ring.html?clickref=1100lDp3y34Q&reqid=73079187&affid=1694&app_clickref=1100lDp3y34Q

Here's a re-jig of the design. The supplier said the following - "I have opened the pipe spacing to 150mm in the Kitchen. This will be fine if you are going to run the Kitchen and Living Room as 1 zone. If the Living Room is to be zoned on its own thermostat then I would keep the pipes at 50mm. I have put just 1 manifold in the Kitchen. This will give you uncontrolled heat in the Study, where the pipes route to and from the manifold from other rooms. Also, the Shower Room is quite a long run to and from the manifold. The hall and Utility are now controlled on 1 thermostat.. might be good to keep them separate, so that you always have the option to control separately in the future if needed?" The Living Room is only separated from the Kitchen by a partition, so it's somewhat open plan. I'm not sure if the uncontrolled heat in the study is an issue? Also, I don't see the issue with the Hall and Utility being on 1 thermostat as an issue, there is now to be no door between them anyway. Any thoughts on this? @JohnMo?

Yup. Hep2o do a pushfit 15mm x 1/2” male BSP, or you can get the same in compression.

Silicone has a very short service life, and tapes & foams are for airtightness, mastics etc are for sealing and weather-tightening etc. Mastic sealant such as CT1 or (cheaper option) Stixall for fundamental frame sealing, then you tape / foam to get airtight. As you’ve boxed yourself in very, very tightly with the windows etc completely filling the spaces I would mask the windows up with about 8-10mm on show, and mastic seal to get your AT in check, smoothing this to nearly nothing. Remove masking and leave to dry for 24hrs minimum. Then when using the tile adhesive you apply a full bed, up to and over the mastic, and whilst that is still wet you dab the reveal boards on, pushing them tight up to the frames. Use stop beads to ‘picture frame’ the reveals to the frames, and skim to those to get sharp, straight, consistent lines.

Standard 1/2" BSP, parallel threads.

This maybe a bit harsh but they look like a guy in his bedroom has cobbled together some pc water cooling parts and fans and 3d printed a case for them and has now set up a company to sell them. (I've not looked hard at them and they are probably doing it properly but they have a very 3d printed look). Pretty much any unit other sold as an FCU will support going below dew point. That's the primary market after all (proper air con performance). It's only a relatively small market of eco warriors and retro fit installations where below dew point is a problem so that will be an afterthought. So trimley have identified a market opportunity. Shame about the design.

I'm guessing you didn't insulate your pipes (and a condensate drain) to give you the option of running a little below dew point if the need arose? What is the FCU you are looking at? Guessing supplier didn't want to sell to non-installer.

Apart from aesthetics I don’t think there is a difference. Many, maybe most FCUs are specced for running below dew point. I am guessing that cooling levels will be about a third at 15°C compared with 7°C flow temp for a room temp of 23°C. Some FCU companies are now publishing 16°C flow temp cooling data, which is kinda handy. I wouldn’t call it fake air con, all these systems have the same components, but it is limited by the desire to avoid condensation. Perhaps we should call it airconlite. But your point about capacity is well made. The best FCU I can find will deliver circa 800W of cooling at 15°C flow temp. These unit’s are about 1.3 x the size of the 1.7kW Panasonic monoblock a2a. So the base plan was to have two FCUs upstairs, and they’d be installed already I’d we hadn’t hit the rocks when trying to buy them. But the more I look at it the better the Panasonic thingy looks. But can I install it myself and still have a warranty…..

Whats the difference between those trimley and a standard fcu? I know nothing. Those trimley don't appear to be the nicest looking things. I looked at the cooling performance I can just imagine my missus moaning that the fake aircon isn’t doing the job properly. I presume similar to other fcu? I suppose the limiting factor is the dew point of water.

Yes, this is the way. And airtight with silicone/sealant?

I have two installed inspection chambers of 600mm diameter both of which are to be reduced in height following a landscaping design change. As part of that change we're also looking to reduce the drain cover size to 320 or 350mm still allowing access for any required clearing. I can find plenty of access restriction or shaft reducing caps, but none of these look like they are designed to allow a change from one riser diameter to another e.g 600mm to 320/350mm (hope the next diagram explains it a bit more) | | ___| |___ | | | | Anyone know of a suitable "riser diameter changer" product?

LOL! I nominated a claude session as "boss" and to coordinate the others. I don't think this is proper sub agent stuff but seems to work. I asked it if they were behaving!. Working my way towards that YouTube video I've been threatening, then the phone call from Mr'X' with the million quid. Bound to happen. Probably be someone on here...:-)

I wouldn't recommend space heating except for any enclosed workshop. Infra red heating pointing at work- forces, or even on a trolley for very local benefit. It's standard in the vehicle industry buildings I've done and I think pretty well everywhere... to the extent of doors being left open. Eg in big shed retailers and esp garden centre checkouts you may see heating directed at the person. In garages it may point down on the bonnet or under the raised vehicle. Presumably you'd use electricity but there are gas methods too.

Unlikely to keep going overnight, and the other consideration as also dries the air (which has an impact on comfort) likely not to need it working so hard as fan coil which helps balance out noise

IMV the A/C unit would be much more unpleasant due to compressor noise. Would likely keep me up at night (light sleeper). Quiet fancoil will be much nicer.

The Panasonic one you referenced is a wall mounted also Good spot......we piped for ceiling mounted on internal wall. Can't (or possibly more accurately don't want to) sensibly get pipes anywhere else for wall mounting. This unit would go discretely in a different place.

The Panasonic one you referenced is a wall mounted also

More info here https://community.openenergymonitor.org/t/is-is-still-possible-to-recommend-a2w-for-none-detached-properties/30194/19 That is where I first saw them

Literally down the road. Limited info but look to be wall mounted (we're looking for ceiling) and again size vs output for cooling isn't as 'good'. We would really have prefered the fan coil route (our ufh cooling has been great), but there is also a question of future proofing...we don't want to cool below dew point, but in balmy Suffolk are the fan coils going to be enough? Also 'investing' in appropriate blind for large west (ish) window, which will be great in the shoulder seasons, but in a heatwave not so great. The things that you only find out when you move in, despite meticulous planning!

Looking at website now!

Getting specs to make sure they are going to work in the way we want....size of units vs effectiveness....ability to locate where we want them. Spilt system is not an option we want to take, mostly due to the limitation of our plot and also for harmonious relations with our neighbours. Downsides all relevant and need to be factored in, but sleep deprivation is real!