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The drawings are impressive, but how well do they match the reality of the installation? Were you able to follow the routes shown in the drawings?

Well on the one hand the custom schematic for my system shows a strainer, but then all V schematics I have seen do. OTOH my installers are V approved ppl so I could reasonably assume they knew what to fit, and I preferred the idea of a big mag filter at waist height in the plant room to a smaller inline strainer outside nr ground level. Also as less likely to clog on account of the much larger surface area. And I reasonably assumed that an Adey HP filter would be suitable for commonly used HPs if not expressly approved by V themselves - though to me it does look on the coarse side. Lastly it seems to be a personal view this year's man has expressed. Since in the two years since installation there has been next to nothing in the strainer and the flow rate is still a high as when it was first installed I am inclined to the view that if it is not broke don't attempt to fix it, there is plenty of other house maintenance I can be doing weather permitting. FWIW I would still be interested to know how to test the concentration of the Adey inhibitor without buying their dedicated kit for £64.09, I am not impressed by just having had to pay £20 for their two spare O-rings which the man also suggested having to hand.

FYI, I have used CVC Systems exclusively for nearly a decade and the service and support (both pre and post sales alike) has been absolutely outstanding.

Only the open plan area got the skim coat of plaster, that was due to its height and it would have taken me forever to tape and joint all on my own. All other rooms are getting tape and joint by me then painted. When I have taped and properly completed all the jointing and sanding stages I think it’s as good a finish as the skim plaster. Not every one will agree with that but I believe in Scotland it’s mostly tape and joint and in other countries particularly Canada that’s pretty much all they do. It’s definitely won’t change the airtightness as we are ICF so our biggest airtight challenges are the eves, service penetrations, doors and windows.

Ask your BCO? Ask your PD?

Noted, but I think the exact content is a bit tricky to find. Bear with us! What are the exact difficulties after getting from inside to out? This is where the PH ideology is a bit 'over-sold' imho..... You are where 'you are', so let's get this moving We need to know how much heat (energy) you need to move from indoors to out, and in particular which areas are worst affected so you get the balance of problem vs solution as close to perfect as is practicable. On my current (400m2), and next 2 projects (prob 3 now), I have recommended AC to the entirety of the FF, with no wet heating or cooling, for the little bits of space heating but non-insignificant cooling requirements that are anticipated. Solar control via glazing has been observed from concept, but ultimate comfort for the occupants is the goal; excess PV generation will delete any running cost of AC cooling, and any thimble of heating will just get paid for on demand. UFH/UFC to ground floor and DHW is via heat pump #1, AC via heat pump #2 (external units).

Most manufacturers have statements saying you must fit a given strainer size to keep your warranty.

Why do you need to lower humidity? Isn't that what your MVHR does anyway? On UFH in cooling mode keep flow temps at a reasonable level, as once you go below around 14 you can start to make condensation. Start at 16 and keep an eye on your manifold for any misting up. Slowly work down, but wouldn't go below 14.

SWMBO has chosen one with a small frame at the edge with the specific opinion that this will help keep spills on the hob. I think the flush mounted can look very cool (saw a white one in a white worktop somewhere) but do we actually want hobs where the boiling over and the spills and spits etc are free to run over the worktop ?

Had a service visit from Vaillant two weeks ago. He didn't find much in the filter (Adey Magnaclean HP) but didn't like the mesh size and said we ought to have inline strainers as well, as per Vaillant schematic. Last year's man didn't make any comment on this. I agreed it is a bit coarse (like a giant kettle fur collector but coarser) but said I didn't want to cut into pipe to add more fittings. He muttered about replacing blocked HX could cost >£1k and not covered by warranty. Previous oil boiler system had been cleaned with Fernox citric acid cleaner and their inhibitor used, always stayed nice and clean. HP installers used Adey inhibitor and biocide. IMO making sure the pH and inhibitor concentration are correct is best way of ensuring trouble-free operation, I have pH testing drops, man claims to have checked Adey inhibitor but I don't know what he used, what do other ppl do?

Looks like it may have been around a while but not catching on. So now you have to guess whereabouts to put your pans. So now you just destroyed that mobile phone someone left on the invisible induction area. So now it is invisible, except for the kitchen extractor positioned prominently above it. So now you have to choose a compatible worktop only.

Possibly the ugliest thing I have ever seen TBH !

We’ve done exactly the same (I think we followed Dreadnought’s recommendation) and it’s fine and dandy and a good price too. We’ve also got a Qooker tap. We fitted the Qooker Scale control, it’s another cylinder to go next to the main cylinder, or in your case a cube. We’ve got 33 whatevers hard water (yes, 33 individual little droplets from the test kit till it changed, sigh), and I think it’s a condition of the Qooker warranty that if you have hard water you have to have a scale control doberry. As an aside, why an unsoftened tap in the room of utils?

If thats a solid wood worktop what happens if it shrinks?

Thanks for this, but I am not sure it covers the retrofit of the A2A system.

Don’t use a sprayer with the tubular filters in the gun, they last 5 minutes and block up. shultz gun as mentioned above.

gas, glass hob, a bit different. Crappy photo I’m afraid.

I have managed to activate the cooling mode option, a hidden setting. It did not work initially, because there is a thermostat wired, for heating only. So I temporarily "disconnected" via the controller (turned off the thermostat setting) and it worked! The UFH is a single zone, which makes it a whole lot easier. Although this works in principle I believe this will not lower the humidity, which a A2A would. So I am minded to pursue the A2A (probably single multi port unit) option to give me greater flexibility and it would also solve the top floor cooling.

FWIW, we plumped for a Wash Water as they offered a longish warranty (AFIK without the need for annual servicing) and the option to buy with 28mm flexi hoses to give good flow for the whole house.

No you buy thru merchant but they still do takeoff

Will Keystone and IG supply directly as I've currently had a quote from Strukta who gave 84% off list.

This is what I have done.

This one looks easy to clean https://pin.it/3J9HYaHe7

^^^^^ +1

@gaz_moose thanks!