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Inevitable, but a bit annoying as thr current (15p outgoing) rate almost exactly matches the E7 rate (13.8p) effectively making charging and exporting the same which makes organising charging times easy. I just charged at night and exported in the day. I'll probaly stay on outgoing but go back to fixed rate.

. Manage? You mean you get some labourers and control them? But they're telling you to get this magic concrete? For diy you could deliberately lay the concrete 25mm or so low. Then get a professional to screed later. but beware, level control is a skill in itself. Is there reinforcement?

From my understanding the applied fools don't last as long. Ligter colours suffer less thermal exoasuand contraction too.

Different profiles and hard ware and quality of assembly make a big difference.

Twist the knife, why don't you 😀. I videoed the pour, and saw the concrete was going off before it was laid and there were voids forming. We had the slab tested for voids and several were found, so they took core samples and condemed it. All because they wanted to save money by not having to use a pump. So much easier the second time. Fortunately it didn't cost us a penny, but we did lose a couple of weeks.

Thanks @Mrog, much appreciated. In the end, MyEnergi accepted that the issue was almost certainly a relay failure, and that it had been causing an intermittent fault for some while (probably since before tge warrant expired). As a 'goodwill gesture' they replaced it FOC, albeit with a refurbished unit, and our original installer agreed to install it for a modest fee. Happy days! To my surprise, MyEnergi did not ask for the old one to be sent back. I have a sparky mate who's going to have a look at it when he has a spare moment, and if it proves to be a cheap fix then I'll probably keep it as a spare.

I've (tried) to sleep in a 6 man tent with one of these: Outbacker® Pioneer Portable Tent Stove & Complete 2.41m Flue Kit | 2.5 Too hot even when there was only a flysheet as insulation. I vaguely remember that the first 'eco' house built at the Centre For Alternative Technology was massivly over insulated (and poorly ventilated) back in the 90's (?) and inhabitants had to strip down to their underwear until the place was rebuilt.

From this thread https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/41910-balancing-rads-help/page/3/

1st March export rates reduce to 12p/kWh, from 15p. So may need to flip to a different tariff for summer, such as Intelligent Octopus Flux

Yes, very. Clients architect spec’d it to go around the subterranean parts of a walk out basement, and I remember them raising an eyebrow or three when the builder quoted for the quantity needed. I still think two layers of EPS would have done the job perfectly well, but their architect and SE were setting fire to money at an extraordinary rate of knots, and what they came up with was usually a pile of shite. Foamglass wouldn’t take kindly to being compacted either.

There's no way a 6.0M or even the "normal" 8M pump will give you 30LPM even with a LLH based on our tests. The Hex loss was 1.54M @ 20.89LPM, this = 3.5M @ 30LPM, The rads loss was 3.9M @ 20.89LPM which will require 8.04M @ 30LPM. Any of the conventional 8M pumps will only give a head of 5.5M ish at 30LPM but the 8M UPS2 which is a giant of a pump at 140W will certainly supply 30LPM and far more at a 8M head, its actually a ~ 10M pump but the "fixed" "CC" speed curves are almost fully CP (constant pressure) curves, no other pump that I'm familiar with will match that performance. If you do think of going for that pump then it might be worth just installing it as a booster pump at minimal installation costs as the boiler circ pump will still have a residual head of ~ 0.66M at 30LPM, enough to avoid cavitation in the UPS2 which requires a minimum inlet head of 0.5M at 75C. The UPS2 other "CC" curves of 7M & 6M can also be useful if the need arises, the LLH can be installed if the above doesn't work out, it's your choice. I will post a few screenshots later of a LLH based on one of your tests to show the effect of balanced & unbalanced flowrates.

Thanks for this Will be very helpful to anyone who is stuck with the same issue. Any chance of an RS part number please?

New build, high insulation levels, 3G, mains electricity only. Could have done GSHP but couldn't be ar5ed with digging lots of trenches and more manifolds. Then of course, the BUS Grant, although I could have DIY'd it but it was one of those things that I wanted some professional backup on

Option 1 may need a DPM. You normally put a thin sand layer over hardcore to cover the sharp bits before you lay the DPM. Is foam glass expensive?

Fireback is looking very fragile. Used as open fire most days but is it difficult to replace DIY? How do I measure for a new one. Concrete or clay. Fire cavity is 1950s Are there any fire regs to follow. All advice grateful for

Of all the places to have a go, this isn’t one imho. If this goes wrong, it’ll be spectacular. Having any pour is manageable, but if you take charge then you accept full responsibility and liability, and can’t look to someone else to redo it at their cost if they feck it up. I doubt the cost saving vs risk makes any sense here whatsoever.

Concreting is one of the least forgiving trades on site. For a house slab it is not worth the risk if you are a novice. Spend some time finding a decent gang to do this.

Finally finally balanced the system...thanks to Chatgpt! I know I know but it's true. Had a very long 'conversation' about the history, boiler, system, issues....walked me through everything....took days of tweaking but the killer move???? Dialing down the ABV from 5 to 2 and voila! all 19 rads boiling, every room warm, able to turn off rads in unused rooms without issue. 3..2...1

👆. Airtightness is of paramount importance, eg more than just draught-proofing it. I’ll not fret about the planning etc, thats another subject but i assume it’s in hand. A demountable building escapes these constraints as per @Crofter’s cabin / hut build. @Waterworks, have you read that thread yet? This will need a portable genny and some solar PV, and probably a leisure battery as anyone staying there all year will need even basic cooking facilities and hot water / fridge etc?? Fridge and hot water can be done via propane, a-la a camper van, and ao could the heating. Gas is defo a major help here if it’s off grid and you need to be as least reliant on electricity as possible. Going to need some power from somewhere unless you’re going full on Neanderthal.

How it normally would be is over fascia vent nailed to the top of the fascia, plastic eaves protection tray on top, supporting the felt and taking water into the gutter. Like this: I don't think wind driven rain would go up the fascia and through the vent, but I guess it could happen in a storm.

No mains electricity

Anything’s possible / doable with the right people and mindsets. You may have to pay them for dead time, and latex in 2 sittings. Latex the whole area up to about 300mm away from the fridge, and then lay 60% of the LVT. Cover an area with 4mm hardboard, then sit the fridge on it. Then latex the remaining area, block the joint and smooth it out, and then lay the rest of the LVT.

I'm refurbishing the floors on my Edwardian house. I've removed the old timber suspended floor and looking to put in an insulated floor with UFH. I have about a 350mm-400mm void and ideally don't want to dig to far below this. The original slate DPC is about 150mm below floor level. I have two options and wanted to validate what works: Option 1: Foam glass aggregate (bottom up): 250mm Foam Glass aggregate compacted 75mm Sand Cement Screed (with UFH) Total build up 325mm I'm considering option 1 because of the level of the DPC being below floor level and bridging it with any other options - but maybe i'm overthinking it? Option 2: 100mm Compacted Hardcore DPM lapped to wall and above screed 200mm EPS 75mm Sand Cement Screed (with UFH) Total build up 375mm Option 2 does it work without a concrete layer and is the hardcore enough? There are some posts on here that suggest concrete isn't required and the hardcore might be enough? Also what about the fact that the DPC might be bridged in this setup? Any advice and thoughts on these options will be appreciated!

One day grants will go, they then become slightly better trained (or some will become) plumbers, looking for work like everyone else.

Ive had kommerling before. It didn't seem any better or worse than other upvc profiles. Does it depend on the supplier? Do the foils last as long as the frames or do they deteriorate faster?