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Kitchen fitter has done the plinths and completely unexpectedly and never previously communicated, has routed the bottom edge of all the plinths (which had finished board edges anyway) and inserted a sealing strip - see photos. On asking what this is I have been told it is a water seal to stop liquid running under the plinth. Really not sure what I think of this. Don't like it aesthetically, will it get dirty over time ?, is it really necessary at all ?, is it just a crafty way of dealing with uneven floors ? We lived in our old kitchen (fitted by previous owner in late 1980's) for 30 years and never had a problem with the plinths which didn't have anything like this ? Is this normal now ? Can I, should I reject it ? Anyone else got this type of thing ?

As above. 👆. It’s for the covering of one’s arse, vs staring blankly back and saying “what are RAMS?” if or when the shit hits the fan.

You need to cover your arse if you want to pretend to be a PC.

Agree with @Nickfromwales re desirability of RAMS etc., but particularly with @saveasteading re whether they actually mean anything. On one job of mine the EWI sub-contractor provided an impressive, unnecessarily lengthy, RAMS, but I am fairly certain the 'chaps on the tools' had never seen it. On another EWI job the contractor on the tools, their manager *and* the system provider's rep all showed an 'interesting' interpretation of a very obvious thermal by-pass situation. Again, in that case, the 'paper'work was great. In reality, in these cases, a jolly good talk prior to start on site, with clear understanding on both sides, would have achieved much more than the 'paperwork' did in practice.

Thanks, everyone. I've got the info I needed. I've got more questions, but I'll start a new post. Cheers

About time But it a lot of gas not being pumped from elsewhere, so win win. But you can't keep claiming that as a win, most people already have and then down another notch as gas prices increased. And how long it would take also, all this takes time, no magic wand. Or a load of LNG tankers, from who knows where. But this doesn't fit your narrative.

You might have to do it with them and get them to sign. As long as it is logical and sensible they should be OK.

That's the trouble. Many are generic rubbish along the lines of safety being our priority. Also you need to see their insurance... the whole document. Eg I once had a roofer who was highly competent but on checking, his insurance excluded work above 3m. He knew it said that, and it was cheap or all he could get. but nobody had ever checked. I've met HSE inspectors several times. They asked for the paperwork but actually wanted to see competence and safe practices. Hey were genuinely interested and helpful... but tough.I'd hate their job... squashed people, missing digits... look and report. Meanwhile being disliked by the workforce. What they hate is to find nobody in control. On the occasions they told us or our contractors off, they were right. The safety people who like paperwork are safety consultants and company safety officers....

Not many small subbies will have a rams but in the days of AI I suppose its easy enough to knock one up.

If it gets as far as that joint its out the building though isn’t it? In reality I think you will leave the blockwork out at doorways so the radon / dpm will turn up the inside face of the brickwork.

I have searched the internet, but haven't discovered how you terminate a cavity tray at a door opening and get a proper seal. As we have a DPC for Radon directly below the tray which spans the cavity, any water that gets through the tray between the cavity closer and the cavity tray will potentially cause damp. The image below shows how water getting under the cavity tray will have no where to go except towards the inner leaf.

You ask all bonafide contractors for their RAMS too, before they step foot on site, and you also do inductions (regardless of how “busy” you are). And make the site a safe and organised place to be. Allow a lot of time clearing up, sweeping (M-class vacuum needs to be on site as you’re not supposed to kick up dust these days), festoon lighting, don’t have sharp or ‘stabby’ things poking out of ground (rebar protruding needs to be bent back over itself or a mushroom cap put on it), no unmarked or open pits or trenches or barrier around them, list goes on but not rocket science. Take risks with your own life all you like, they can’t jail you for that, but when you invite any 3rd party there then the onus is on you to make them ‘not expire’ ahead of their predetermined departure from this life.

No. Just be safe, use experienced workers and reasonable care and attention. It is to keep people safe not make paperwork. A risk assessment is simple. What are we doing?how? What are the risks? How do we reduce or avoid these? Do it thus and brief those involved. Yes people make money from the paperwork from those who will pay. But HSE basically don't want to report on squashed people.

This in spades for me. One I didn't mention before - all the CDM2015 stuff. Adds cost, adds work, deliberately frightening. My oft repeated line on it was that I seemed to need to sign up for being chief blame taker for everything - but once they had someone in the frame to blame ... many of the difficulties evaporated. I guess when/if something does go wrong now I'll go to prison which is a significant downside risk to just wanting to build a home. But at least it'll be the type of crime with early release built in.

Yup, which means ‘don’t add to the problem’

inside my grohe concealed cisterns the flexi from the twist stop to filler valve is narrow bore, probably 8mm I’d guess so bottleneck there too.

Plus turns, bends, restrictions of joints and inserts, and more The pipe alone isn’t representative of ‘real life’ (in my direct experiences).

As above, what council are you under…they should be a department and more than a single person, although you have a named contact, others there should also be able to come out and advise. May also be worth copying in the entire department email address along with your named contact, could help move things along… and the other thing, they could just be on annual leave

Eg timber, plasterboard and sundry other materials??

That's a good point since the maximum flowrate through a 10mm pipe is probably around 10L/m[1] so a 6L flush would take 36 seconds. That maximum flow rate is even for short sections dropping relatively high pressures. For a larger diameter pipe, I guess it is limited by the filler mechanism itself.

Realised on the first page of this thread I reference a Pegler Equation with no reference. It's below. The ID values are 6.7mm, 11.3mm and 17.7mm for 10mm, 15mm and 22mm Hep2O respectively. Q = 140 * (((PD * di^4.87) / 6.05E6) ^ (1/1.85)) , where PD is pressure drop across 10m. 82498733_Pressure_Loss_Tables.pdf

You are not alone there. If i was being cynical, sounds like nothing much other than extracting some % from otherwise existing businesses and customers via some techy, appy type stuff. Somehow. Or put another away, someone with some techy knowledge trying to answer a question, that nobody is asking.

The flow rate is much lower than 15mm, which is fine for low lpm flow rate outlets, however, I have done this a couple of times and then noticed the cisterns take around twice as long to refill. Not a problem in say a cloak WC, I actually plumbed one like this early on this week, but if you wake up to use an ensuite and flush the loo, you don’t want the torture of waiting an age for the sound of it filling to stop. I stay in a lot of hotels and the one I’m in atm has a gravity CWS that fills the WC’s. Takes bloody ‘forever’ for it to shut up so my brain can tune back out. I’d recommend sticking with 15mm feeds to all WC’s or accept the above bug.

It may be they just don’t like building materials as it could apply to everything. My claim was only slightly more specific ie. plastering materials, electrical components, timber, decorating supplies. Where it was a mixed purchase, I picked the biggest value materials. That was 3 years ago so things might have changed.

You can get Hep2O flexible hoses, but they also do a bewildering array of tap connectors. I've got 10mm Hep2O pipe taking hot to various basins and am also considering the same for cold to cisterns. Is there any reason not to like the HD26A/10W which is plastic hand tighten and includes a rubber washer. It's all white which helps it to blend in. Is a visible Hep2O pip considered naff vs a flexible hose? 10mm Hep2O is more discrete in many ways. Plumbing Superstore have a good price on them (£1.70inc each) but delivery on top pushes it up.