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Nick you are a star that would be great and even more of a bonus if he will undertake the whole job. Thank you!

In addition to my comments above, here is an image of the tree concerned and its proximity to the dish, situated on the chimney.- hope it helps.

Here is an image of a screen shot that I have just ran, using the app -

@Temp I believe trees aren't an issue provided you are not in a woodland environment. The dish itself can be rotated and the installation can be assisted by the use of the App. It actually shows you where to swivel the dish accordingly, to get the correct alignement. We have a large Oak tree 10 metres from the house and the location of the dish. Although a section of this appears to fall within the "obstructions" picked up by the App there is no real impact on performance. I think the main thing to avoid is solid structures.

@Iceverge I did not realise they did cheaper residential packages. Tempting now. Maximum available here is 15.88 Mb/s Download, 1.94 Mb/s Upload.

How important is the amount of sky you can see? Do wet trees cause an issue like they do for satilite TV?

Choose one and use it all over. Far easier and quicker.

So we have chosen a white colour for our walls in an open plan room, and intend to paint the ceiling white too. Can we use a standard brilliant white for the ceiling, and then our chosen softer white for the walls ? Or is it going to be better to paint the ceiling with the same white we use on the walls ? Not sure if using two whites is going to look odd at the junction of ceiling and walls ? Or is going to show up any wobbly bits at the junction of walls and ceilings (we are not using coving) ? Lots of people seem to paint open plan rooms white - so hopefully some can offer their advice/experience.

I would go back to you planning approval notice, it should state exactly what documents they need for sign off. Our didn't ask for and didn't receive anything for windows and doors.

I can PM you Gordon Lewis’s number if you like? He does the majority of MBCs cellulose work. Maybe you can get him to undertake the whole job, as he’s capable of cutting into and reinstating the airtight layers.

No I remember looking at it specifically for mineral wool, not cellulose but I think if you can do it for mineral wool you can do it for cellulose.

Suspect that’s for eps beads rather than wood fibre or cellulose. I hope the same might be true for those two though.

That looks good 👍 A little update on mine..... my mate is sending a team over next week to build it for me!! I'm obviously not trustworthy 😬

I think the biggest installation difference will be sheilded vs unsheilded. Unshielded 6a vs 6 will be similar, but once you add shielding it gets harder both with bed radii and termination. Unshielded 6a seems less common though and given the 500Mhz cat6 listed above maybe the manufacturers have decided that selling slightly underspec 6a as high bandwidth 6 is a better business than making fully to spec 6a unshielded. Whatever is installed, termination matters a lot for high speed. A perfectly terminated cat6 connection will likely outperform a badly terminated 6a. Argument for sheilding is if you are running the data cables close to mains cables (especially if those mains cables are feeding noisy circuits, induction hobs, inverter driven stuff, etc).

Thought the sucking it out and then putting in new was a fairly well developed practice. It's done for cavity walls for sure. * I've no particularly experience here just basing this of things I've read hear and elsewhere in the past.

An interesting problem. ‘Interesting’ for me at least in that we’re about to have insulation blown-in and an answer to what happens if ‘membranes fail and the insulation gets wet’ would be reassuring. I think you need either a proper creative engineer or someone who has fixed this problem before. Sure, call the blown-in importers as they may have exposure to this problem before. You might need their CEO or their top tech person rather than be fobbed off with a lead to their local representative. Alternatively, call a bunch of the local representatives (mostly one-man businesses), describe the problem and see who bites. I’m wondering whether some more creative solutions e.g. just let it dry out or suck out the damp stuff and blow in some dry stuff might work. Do report back to add some info to the hive mind.

Contract warmcell, they are a distributor/ installer company. Also look for THERMOFLOC.

In true Blue Peter fashion - here's one we did earlier... Ours was all done with standard key clamp bits and some solar panel clamps. Can't remember who we used for the poles and clamps but we did work out how many of each length of pole we needed, so they were delivered ready to start construction. The poles in the earth are 1m long, whacked in by our builder for a flat pack of beer... EDIT - should have added that we set the panels at 45 degrees to maximise winter output rather than the 35 degrees that PVGIS suggested. The actual annual total for 45 degrees was only just under the PVGIS 'optimum' but output was shifted away from the summer towards the winter.

>>> Shall we all make a date for say Thurs March 19th? ?

Up and working. The mount I linked above is good as was the bracket. I had to notch and taper the top of the aluminum 50mm bracket to fit into the tapered cast alloy mount for the antenna. So far the service is proving rock solid. I opted for the €35/month 100mbps. It's dropped to €29 since. Sitting in my kitchen that's what I'm getting now.

Good morning. We are coming to the end of our journey, and what a long journey (not in months) but there have been other obstacles along the way which has made it feel much longer! Our windows and doors were installed by a local company (Origin windows and doors). What do building control require for getting over the Approved Doc Q? Is it something from the door/window manufacturer or supplier/installer? Is there a standard form, or do I need to complete something too? Do hope someone has an answer, you all usually do and have been most helpful throughout. Caroline

I'd be asking them to specify what they require. They cannot insist on one supplier, crittall. When these Rationel heritage windows were launched both we and our window contractor saw them and thought ahaa, that's the answer. True enough the listed buildings architect approved them, having previuosly stated "only crittall". About 10 years ago? We also used an off the shelf door with skinny bars, but I made out it was special. It is usually worth the effort of a fancy presentation.

I have literally no idea why I drew the ground mount like that..... so many uprights!! 🤦‍♂️ This is how it's actually going to look with just 6 uprights - 2m between each set should be fine, but I can always ask my mate who owns a large scaffolding co (hence the free poles 😉)

It's worth having a look at installation specs and limitations. Higher spec cables tend to be thicker, stiffer, and have larger minimum bend radiuses. Cat 6a can be more challenging to route and terminate than cat 6, for example. I also think cat 6a needs different terminations compared to cat 5e/6 due to having thicker conductors.

I would shim the wall plate.