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Its just a choc block connector l n and earth

Hi all, The entrance to my mum’s block paved driveway has been lifted and made uneven by roots from the neighbour’s tree. The tree is protected, so removal isn’t an option, and we obviously don’t want to damage it. The main issue is lifting caused by roots near the tree. I’m concerned that simply relaying block paving there will lead to the same problem returning as the roots continue to grow. The driveway itself was laid many years ago and is showing its age, with some general undulation elsewhere, so it makes sense to address everything at the same time. What type of driveway surface or construction works best where tree roots are present and likely to keep causing movement? I was thinking of relaying block paving for most of the driveway and using gravel grids over the area near the tree, but I’m a bit concerned about pine needles and weeds building up in the gravel. Open to better ideas. Ideally we’re looking for something that can cope with the movement, stay fairly low maintenance, and not cost more than the car that sits on it 😂 Has anyone dealt with a similar situation? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Did you finish this after topping up system pressure?

Cor that’s weird! Have you got a thermal camera you can point at the door to see if it’s a uniform temperature (thus uniformly filled)?

Post a pic of your new light connections, may just need live and switched live linking, but then that could be on all the time. Post a pic of your new light connections

Can you post an update to let us know what Norrsken propose? They seem very well regarded here and elsewhere. Bear in mind the Marmox type board on the reveals won't help block out noise. I take it that traffic is the issue?

Woke this morning, after thinking I had a stable system, with flow temps bouncing about. The bouncing occur soon after a temp drop overnight. System currently looks like 4kW heat pump at min modulation 1kW, UFH with single fan coils (60L), volumiser (50L). UFH is within 100mm slab. Previously 6kW heat pump and at min modulation 4kW, the rest the same as above. For my previous heat pump volume was king to cycle control. Current setup not sure the volume adds anything positive, it adds to system inertia and leads to slow feedback to heat pump. Think the control system is looking for a more timely feedback to changes to running parameters. The thick screed, big water volume (via the volumiser) adding too much delay to changes, such as return temp staying stable for too long after a controller input, so control throws out a further command, feedback comes back (late), so the controller keeps over compensating. We get a yo-yo as witnessed. Luckily the volumiser is easy to bypass, so this was done earlier. Within 5 mins of the change, the flow/return and power input became very stable. Looking at yesterday and todays day time temps they are almost the same, but CoP has jumped from 5.2 to 5.4 during steady running. Will see overnight as temps swing about outside, if this has calmed the down.

Just doing what i thought was a simple job for family member. Replaced a screwfix dunham light with pir with a new maine pir light. Connected it up the same . (black to neutral and red to live and the earth) didn't work. Being now told that the new light needs neutral, live and earth and it may have live and switched live as its off a switch. Could this be right?

@JohnMo turn both valves and let pressure went up to 1.5 as you can see in pic and reset the system. still showing same error h20.

I've ordered that i the warm version, Very impressed with the TLC website, especially at the end when it lets you move the location pin on Google maps, away from the postcode node to the actual location. Evri need that. I will see what they look like but am thinking I might as well use a cable from the light to the terminal block for ease of fixing.

Don't be too stingy on this, however much I approve of using spare stuff. It needs to be strong plywood and I'm thinking 12mm structural ply. About £30 a big sheet or less if you shop around. . and the ring shanked nails for some reason were deemed better than screws . https://www.wickes.co.uk/Structural-CE2%2B-Plywood-Sheet---12-x-1220-x-2440mm/p/252241

Thanks. I do appreciate that it's very old and am trying to do an honest job in restoring things as best as is reasonable. I'll try the ply approach first. I have a some sheets left over from an over order last year, failing that I'll search out some new boards. I don't think this is an issue, with the exception of the one beam they all seem to be doing pretty well. When I bought the property I did pay a bunch of money for a 'proper' inspection just because I knew it was a lot to take on. None of this was flagged. That said the whole report was a bunch of non-committal mealy mouth weasel words that gave me nothing substantive at all.

Yes, I've got 8 Aurora E8 fire rated dimmable LED down lighters in the hall. They're on for several hours a day and been installed for 5 years with no issue. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AUDE8CW.html At one time I would have agreed with Prodave about replaceable lamps, however decent fittings are very reliable these days and even if you have a failure the holes are generally a standard size and replacements are not that expensive.

Then once all working again, inhibit system with heating system inhibitor and biocide (same brand and type as previously used). Or if you have glycol, add glycol to the correct ratio.

The exact same one I fitted in Leicester. IIRC I used a threaded fitting from hep2o, and PTFE taped it onto the threads of the Frosti. I had to use that to lengthen the tap though. Are you going to need to have an angled fitting immediately on the end of the tap to connect it flush to the wall?

How about taping a polythene dust sheet around the door, then blowing a fan from the other side? Does the door feel heavy or light? Can you remove the door handle, or something, to look inside the door?

That's us lot. Pragmatic, reasonable, logical. We wouldn't get elected because our campaigns would say .....it's not that simple and we need a middle way. That's not what wins elections.

Well, I suspect that the need for several km of timber aids discussion. So I suggest the strategy is thus. Meet the rep. Insist on a walk round the premises. Ask how they keep the timber dry. Then either buy lots, straight from the docks, still wrapped, but you need your own cover. OR the BM has to keep it under cover for you. This means you need to supply a programme of timber requirements including lengths. If it is standard spec in 4.8m lengths this is a fast mover at the BM so they have no risk. Our 10 x 2 in 6m lengths, had been hanging around.

As a country we seem to do A or B, it all too binary. Heat pump or gas, best bang maybe hybrid for a lot of the existing housing stock, 90% of the time running a heat pump, almost zero plumbing changes. Oil & gas, yes or no, we close refineries, export what we produce, then buy it all back at inflated prices. We just import a pretend net zero from somewhere else. The politicians all need a good sacking and be replaced by people with common sense.

I'd really like a make and model if anybody has one to hand. Aurora do indeed look good but there are so many options, some with sub- boxes, some integrated Base unit + bezel + lamp also looks sensible.

With this gently in front of the door. The majorly of the whistle is gone. Even if the door is open it's miles quieter with this random stack of Rockwool

This is the kit I bought from Amazon Germany...Frosti Tap Photo attached. I now notice the box says it is made of gunmetal - which appears to be a type of bronze or 'red brass' which can be used for canons. (Tempting as it might be to hammer dance, I fear it's effect on my joints. And the last time I danced a Conga a 'friend' posted it on tinternet. My spouse was once my dance teacher though.) Hey I'm not in the old people's home yet - pardon.

did the very same. Cut them off and replaced with the in-line Wago light boxes for each spot.

30 years ago on a camping trip the camp site facilities were in a VERY old static caravan that was on the verge of collapse. The floor sloped a great deal so the shower tray was up on bricks at one end to keep it something close to level. This one would have been luxury by comparison.

He probably fitted his own JB's as some of the junction boxes built into light fittings are dire and impossible to connect 2 cables to (loop in and out to next fitting)