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Do you mean like this? Looks like they grip on the vertical seam section and then provide a mounting point for the solar panel, though not sure how you size roof seam width to solar panel width without ending up with a Meccano set's worth of scaffolding. Has anyone got any experience of using these?

MI’s show wiring / plumbing options for most common setups, and I’m a big fan of 2 x 2-port S plan, which can be wired up to do whatever end functionality; they are connected to the HP PCB and the CPU does the thinking.

Loads of installs still use an s-plan setup and manufacturers still provide schematics for this with a bypass for over-run with both valves closed. 🤷‍♂️

I actually never did it, but I do have the bearings. My unit wasn't quite level, and when I sorted that the issue went away! 5 months and it hasn't become an issue again yet.

Two normally closed valves or X plan one normally open the other normally closed for PDHW?

You can if you want, you can get smal.coul units for small ducts so you can get individual room control if you want it. But with an air change every 3 hrs suspect it's feast and famine for heat if the additional thermostat to each room, it's not really a big issue anyway as room temp equalise whether you want them to or not. If heating via UFH and at no more than 10W/m2 your floor temp is about 1 to 2 degs higher on the coldest day than the room, so floor pretty much regulated itself without thermostats getting in the way. Your real issue is getting a heat source that modulates well enough to drip feed energy into the floor. My heat load is about 15W/m² at -9 so average days even our 4kW ASHP has to batch heat, so runs a few hours then off the rest of the day. Cooling via MVHR is pretty rubbish, your flow rates need to about 5-6x higher than your ventilation rates, so pointless.

Perfect, thank you!

Assuming passive levels of heat demand without doing phpp is foolish. You have no idea how close you are to passive, NO IDEA! People think passive is just a little better than the building regs, it's not. It's a different philosophy, you have to consider every element and check its performance. MHRV units are a great example. Compare the claimed heat recovery efficiency against the actual tested results by the passive house institute. There is often double digit percent difference. The passive house institute also check air leakage. We are in the final design stages of a passive-certified build, and also thought heating and cooling through the ventillation system was the answer. The more we looked into it, the less appealing it got: You dont have individual room control. This is a big deal in a well-insulated building. A sunny winters day will give significant solar gain to south facing rooms. How do you deal with this? Overheat your south facing rooms or underheat the other rooms. This could be solved with dampers etc, but it is not a simple off the shelf solution that your local tradesman will be familiar with. And lets say you have the system well balanced for heating, chances are those room airflows are not optimal when you need cooling. Air has poor heat capacity, so to deliver any meaningfull heating/cooling, you have to move a lot of air, many times more air than normal MHRV requires. So you need bigger/more ducts, where will these go? You might have to lower your ceiling to make space for them. This is not an issue in North America as they often have large crawl spaces under the houses to run the ducting. Condensation on the outside of ducts. If you want to cool by forced air, you will have to cool the air below the dew point. This will cause condensation on the outside of your ducting, unless you use insulated ducting. This is expensive and increases the outer dimensions of the ducting even further. It's pretty easy to humidify air. Some MHRV companies make inline humidifiers, Brink make one. Just be careful with ducting outside the thermal envelope.

I'll try! from memory!. Yes its the same for both fans. Get cover off remove reactor core thing unscrew panel around screen. there's a few screws Assuming thats off. each fan has 3 screws I think mounting it to the chassis remove them you then have to unclip the slide out pcb - it was fiddly (probably need to unplug all connection (I labelled mine so I didnt mess up) As it slides forward the fan connectors are typically at the back. Unplug them Then the stupid bit is once you've taken the connector off the end you have to feed it back so that the fan can come out. i.e. the cables are so tight fan as zero play until it gets some cable slack Thats from memory!. if you get stuck please put photo's up to refresh my brain. It's clearly designed so non Axia engineers dont do this!

Would you be able to post a quick description of how to remove the fan please? Is the precedure the same for both fans? I have exact same unit, thinking of replacing bearings, can't see how to get at the wiring (to disconnect) to allow taking the fan out entirely.

This is the "intention" behind the requirement for broadband connections: Intention 1.1 In the Secretary of State’s view, requirement RA1 for gigabit-ready physical infrastructure will be met by installing physical infrastructure or installations, including elements under joint ownership, to host wired or fixed wireless access networks that can do all of the following. a. Facilitate a functioning connection to a gigabit capable public electronic communications network to each new dwelling. b. Connect the building access point or common access point (where a building contains more than one dwelling) with a network termination point at each individual dwelling. c. Connect the network termination point with the physical point at which the network operator’s spine or core network ends (the network distribution point), or as close as is reasonably practicable where the developer has no right to install such infrastructure in land required to reach the distribution point. NOTE: The network distribution point could be in a cabinet, a box mounted on a wall or on a telegraph pole. It may or may not be on the development site. If your existing arrangement on site satisfies the above then BC should not have a problem with it. As said above just explain that this is a replacement dwelling with existing connections retained that meet requirements.

I’ve done a few S plan, and prefer the redundancy tbh.

So when you say all the openings are the same, do they all have a crack running down from the bottom left / right edge to the floor? Nothing at the top? Ground and first floor?

Mine is/will be about 10% (or second hand Aston Martin sized) 🤣

Won't they deliver to you?

As you know I got the GROHE frame and pan installed, but it seems the flush does not want to work. You have to keep the buttons pressed in for the water to flow. Basically the release valve (correct term?) was not engaging. First picture shows the top of the release valve on the left, and a part of the refill/float mechanism to the right. The second picture shows where the top of the release valve should get to when a flush button is pressed. But, it is catching as per the next photo I've tried "twisting" these two apart but hard plastic don't give. Question - cut the top of the release valve (enough to allow it to rise properly), or cut the alternative installation slot and that "flange"? Othe photos

I have Vent Axia Kinetic Advance S - installed myself 4-5 years ago - starting to make a new little noise, of the resonance kind. It's at it's worst at around 30% but still present at other speeds. Have inspected both fans and neither needed cleaning. @phatboy@Cooeyswell@Savage87 Was bearing replacement a success and did it cure the issue?

Just when I was about to need them most! Both the options they mention are an hour and a half away. Their delivery service is very good, but not as good as 20 minutes from site. I'm gutted. I use them all the time. Their 5% discount is a massive help.

I'm also planning to build a passive-level house and had the same questions re A2A. Last night I costed up the pipes, clips, manifold and connectors for UFH and if I've done it correctly it seems to be less than £1k all-in. So I will be putting it into mine I think as it seems worthwhile running the pipes at least. That doesn't help with your earth floor issue though.

I love the way I can optimise by making suggestions to chat. It doesn't "get it" until you suggest it. It was doing real time shadows on every object (even grass) which kills the cpu and gpu. I want shadows on everything but there are lots of 'cheats' that can be done if you know what to ask! Briefly tried this voxel demo on a nuc (this will be the avalon face/voxel screen). Was around 20fps. Go back to chat tell it to inspect and explain how everything is rendered in the main loop. What's cpu bound what's gpu bound. 10 mins later on nuc 60fps with plenty of cpu/gpu to spare.

Why no underfloor heating with an earth clay floor? It seems to be the ideal time to install it: Earthen Floor Applications — The Earthen Floor Company

No, dense block. Approx 10 mm mortar under the skim coat. Plastered over the winter, internal temps never went below 10 degrees. Dried out very slowly, no excess heat or dehumidifiers. Took a few months for the cracks to develop, but are not along mortar lines, and given the house is on a Kore slab on hard rock underneath then I don't think this is any subsidence issue.

DO IT DO IT DO IT!

We won't have much direct slab-heating solar gain as most of our large windows are NE facing. The larger SW & NW facing windows are on the first floor with no line-of-sight to the ground floor slab. At first, we were looking at just keeping the house at a relatively constant temperature year-round, but we're now think more of actual air-con. Our neighbour has a portable unit that they were running in their kitchen/living area a few weeks ago. The outside temperature was bordering on uncomfortable, but inside it was lovely. We need to verify our heat loss calcs, but it would appear our space heating requirements will be low and some rooms could actually be heated by the equipment running in them, which is pretty mad Dry air is perhaps a concern as we'll have a lot of house plants...

Like all things it depends on the numbers and what you actually mean by cooling - are you looking for air conditioning type cooling, or just tempering the excess heat during heat waves? A slab, for example, has a very slow response time, but a cool slab is very good at soaking up direct solar gains due to thermal mass. But also, using slab cooling will increase room humidity and over a longer period can cause discomfort as a result, so sufficient ventilation is essential. Running your heat pump at say 7-8C through fan coils is also much less efficient than running at 16-18C through a slab at which temperatures you'll see efficiencies on a par with low flow temp heating on the same unit. It's all a question of balance and what makes most sense for your architecture and needs.