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No. Unless there is an inch of render on the boards. A lot of stuff comes off when they are flipped over.

Crimp or solder and then heat shrink insulation.

Hi We are dismantling the scaffolding next week and are a little worried that we will be charged a "cleaning free". This hasn't been mentioned anywhere in our agreement with the scaffolding company, but our renderers have left a residue on many of the boards. We will do our best to clean the boards ourselves, but we don't want to get too vigorous and splash our lovely new render. If I get a fee, fair everything, but just wondering whether anyone else has encountered this. Thanks

Looks like the sparky has left us with a lighting cable for a locally switched wall light which is too short for where we want to site it. How can the cable be extended these days ? Is it acceptable to use some form of in-line connector buried in the wall ? (in the safe zone of course)

Except the other major issues are (1) cost, (2) environmental impact, and (3) intermittancy. 1. There is huge disagreement on the actual costs of renewable energy with people using different calculation methods and huge tax payer subsidies in place now. Subsidies not only being direct but also via paying producers to turn off wind turbines and cut off power feeds - effectively paying for no power. So we then have energy storage costs. We also have the cost of power cabling. 2. Environmental impacts extend from being a blot on the landscape, to killing wildlife, to felling rainforests, to catching fire, to falling over, to child labour in cobalt and lithium extraction, to interfering with radar, to loss of farm land. 3. Intermittancy means no energy security without huge scale energy storage, either centrally, or in a distributed fashion where everyone has to install a battery in their house. Renewables is not a free lunch or without very real issues.

Which is why I thing they would get the public on side more if it was presented an an energy security issue due to our dwindling oil and gas reserves, and without the silly completely stop oil use targets.

Yes it is happening. BUT if not actually man made we will get to net zero eventually at great cost, and find it makes no difference. So it DOES matter how it is caused.

I decided to change this wiring and use zone 1 and zone 2 control via 3rd party thermostat control. This gives a few advantages Heat and cooling is switched manually, so use a simple light switch to trigger seasonal changes, it's connected to ASHP and UFH controller, so both are always in exactly the same mode - this is hardwired. Hydraulically the system runs fully open, zones is purely for different running points and flow temps. Zone 1 terminals are fitted with a jumper wire, so always on pure WC, so runs in heat or cool depending on seasonal switch position. Zone 2, is a wireless switch controlled by UFH controller, in winter it allows me to boost summer house temp (only if needed via manual setpoint change on UFH controller), increased flow temp being buffered in to house slab (been doing this for the past year, works well). In summer it allows two set points for cooling, 19 degs flow background via zone 1 temp, if house goes above 23, it moves the flow temp to 17 via zone 2 setpoint. It also includes control set point for humidity, so if house goes above 60% it removes boost function via zone 2 (this will require tuning). A further advantage is zone two has its own WC curves for heating and cooling. Certainly for heating it allows me to fine tune the boost temp uplift required at different outside temps, for summer house which runs a fan coils and not UFH.

I don't know the product, but would be wary that the rest will continue to fall off. That might get stick behind battens and be worse than having nothing. No money until this is sorted. Make sure you put this in writing. Keep it reasonable but robust. Is it holding your project up? The experts above can advise if it needs to be removed and prepared before redoing.

Don't spend too much time recrunching as summers only just round the corner and PV£ will be slipping through your fingers😁

Back from the pub, quite happy, stinking of woodsmoke. The craic was good. BP undoubtedly down. Go figure.

Thanks. I was being dumb. Had a "special" moment. Worked it out and deleted the post, but you saw it 30kWh for £3k is starting to make some sense. Assuming i can do the install (inc my PV) myself. Although, i still dont really want to have batteries as its all just more stuff to manage and go wrong. Too much electronics for my liking. Need to re-crunch my payback time.

2 ways: 1. Calculate it. P = I x V. They are using the 16 batteries in series so the 314Ah per cell applies to the whole pack. Therefore, P = 314 x 48 = 15072 = 15kwh * 2. They have a very similar model that is assembled for £500 more and also has better batteries so you can directly compare it to that. https://www.fogstar.co.uk/collections/solar-battery-storage/products/fogstar-energy-16kwh-48v-solar-battery * @Dillsue clearly did the maths with 48V as the voltage, but the specs say the nominal voltage per cell is 3.2V so 16x3.2=51.2V. When you plug this into the power formula you get 16072 which is the same as they claim for the other battery above.

Passive class house here. I made every decision based on cost as I'm so tight I lick the drips out of the milk carton. No central heating to begin with. House too cold, 17-18deg. Nicked this from my parents shed and plugged it in (anywhere downstairs was fine) . It broke after 2 years so I went to the dump and pulled another one from the scrap electrical pile. (True story) Then electric prices doubled so I put an A2A unit in the downstairs hallway. It squirts enough calories into the house to keep it all toasty. Haven't tried cooling yet as that would unnecessarily disturb the spiders in my wallet. Bathroom was a bit chilly on my man boobs so I put in one of these in one bathroom. It cost €30. The kids had to make do without sawdust on their gruel for a month. It hit the spot but the tips of my ears were hotter than the tips of my toes and that pisses me off. So then I bought one of these for the downstairs communal bathhouse. €60, Christmas has been cancelled until 2030. It fluffs up my curlys excellently and delivers a beautiful Saharan breeze to my eyeballs. Better than the 2 bar fire above. Best of all I made sure to hang it on a stud wall so it makes a racket and you never forget to turn it off. Total capital ofheating........... ~€1600....... Annual heating usage 2025 for 186m². That is excluding the twiddly bits (~30kWh) for warming my titty bits in the shower. Like @TerryE says do da numbers y'all..🇺🇸

Hi thanks for your help. I went to a local shop and she told me I’d have to use sp101 ply, but if you say just normal ply will do I’ll get a good quality ply from local builders merchants, makes it simple. The flooring at the moment is just 22mm chipboard. I have got to make up about 17mm which will be level with shower tray, it can be a little lower. im thinking 12mm ply and 3mm tile glue so shouldn’t to to far off. can you recommend a screw type that would be best as I don’t have a nailer? also you say about the feathering, does it matter if I put it everywhere and sand it or just the joints and screw? Then sand. Regards. James

I don't see what the problem is. We have this and a heated towel rail in an unsuite. The heating mat simply glues to the deck ( a marmox board in our case)and is negligibly thin. Then tiles went on with normal tile adhesive.

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Thank you for all the very helpful input - the cooling comments haven't been lost on me at all. We do like a cool bedroom and prior to having the detailed SAP calcs and part O modelling done, we were looking into AC / ASHP cooling modes and how effective they are/aren't (i.e. as others have said - don't expect anything immediate or particularly noticeable over a short period of time). We nearly got taken in by some of the MVHR / combo-cooling sales pitches but were saved a lot of £££ by some advice from here. I'm happy to say our plans have reverted back to our original basis (simpler than my OP): Wet UFH downstairs, single zone (open circuit, single zone valve control (which we may / could connect into our KNX system - we're starting with a simple KNX implementation but with the wiring and fabric of the design so that we could expand it later when our bank balance has recovered...). Electric UFH pads in the bathrooms (tiled - this is more for comfort & experience rather than as a 'heat the room' source). These could be connected into the KNX system too. Electric towel rails in bathrooms. Question re: UFH pads under tiles: We're looking at these two options; they would be installed on top of 22mm Caberdek floor with tiles on top. Has anyone any advice on using the self-levelling compound (10mm) on top of this sort of wiring? How do you get it level and how do you prime / waterproof the floor and timber edges? (10mm is so shallow - the 75mm wet screed is easy to visualise). UFH pre-wired pads: https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/product/150watts-m²-thermrite-mat-full-self-adhesive-backing-for-easy-install/ https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/ThermRite_Mat_Instructions_150_CR.pdf UFH loose wire - pinned down to a set layout/principles, but allows us to fit neatly around objects like bath, toilet, vanity unit etc.: https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/product/thermrite-dual-core-heating-cable/ Installation manual: https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/ThermRite-In-Screed-Cable-Installation-Manual.pdf I'll dig out some images of the house layout if you're interested.

Thanks. Not the easiest website that one. Unless you are an expert. Seems like a cheap way into batteries.

As you do every 3 months or so, you put a lot of effort into these arguments, for what im not sure. Because it always goes the same way. But half this thread is full of debate about how climate change is caused. Does it matter? Its fairly evident its changing. However, and as ive stated before, the idea that if we buy a heat pump and plant some windmills everything will be ok, is pure fantasy. Us meddling about with such wheezes isnt going to have any effect. At all. We are just going to have to deal with it. Expending resources trying to stop it, will come to be seen as one of the greatest follys ever attempted by man. And leave us with minimal resources to actually deal with the consequences.

Good as that all is, and i agree with most of it, the reality is, having been bullshitted and lied to so many times, no one believes a word of it. This crops up quite often on some of the traditional building/rural living groups on facebook. About 98% simply think its a money making scam for government, restriction of freedoms or some other variant. Consistently that is the view. There is alnost no one, sometimes no one at all saying that it is actually a real issue. Thats the problem with constantly telling lies, eventually people realise you are telling lies, and assume everything is a lie. There was a story we used to tell children about it..............................

If you go Greenwood CV2 or CV3 you just need mains power to the fan, nothing else. Then set to smart humidity control and it sort everything else out. If you don't have existing fans get the electrician to tap in to lighting ring main to powers, they draw a couple of watts. For dMEV to work correctly you NEED vents in dry rooms, AND door under cuts.

Swap straight out for bathroom extractor fans.

I know, hence the wink. No. The bathrooms are fairly stable (internal rooms so keep the heat) but I'd guess it's about 19 in there when I go for a shower at this time of year. It's ok but would prefer warmer. I've recently started running my heating 24hrs with a setpoint of most of the flat at 18 and 22.5 where I use the computer. 18 is cool but ok if I'm moving around. Pretty sure I'd be ok with lower than 22.5 when I'm sedentary if it wasn't for the massive heat suck from my crappy aluminium windows. Before when doing on/off style heating I was still cold with the thermometer at 23.5 because the concrete floor was sucking the heat out of my feet.

Yes, it is!! Some folk need to take a day off lol. However........ 20 degrees C in a passive house (ish) setting is absolutely NOTHING like 20 in my stone survival pod. At 18 degrees and with MVHR / UFH these dwellings just perform so much comfortably then a 'naturally aspirated, box of upset', such as mine. I just pay the gas bill and don't read it for too long. @-rick-, are you in a super-duper, energy efficient and low temp dwelling with MVHR currently?