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How are you supposed to get upstairs? Might be re-defining the term 'botched'!

Here you go - Starlink Gen 3 Mount, Ybervont Starlink Mounting Kit Gen 3, Heavy Duty Starlink Long Wall Mount for Starlink Internet Kit Satellite, Starlink Pole Mount with Starlink Gen 3 Pipe Adapter. Copy and paste the above into Google and it will show up in AMAZON for just under £70. 👍

AFAIK everything to do with battery location and fire protection are all recommendations and there's nothing mandatory. One thing you want to understand is if your insurer stipulates anything??

Here it is: https://www.facit-homes.com/

I remember that @SteamyTea, think they made osb boxes on site that slotted together, then filled with blown cellulose.

Just chatting through with building control and the subject of batteries came up. He suggested I need 120 minute fire ratings for the plant room if I have my solar batteries installed inside but I can't find out if this is his recommendation or if there is something written down stipulating this. Anybody have any thoughts? I don't have an outside option.

Difficult to guess from the pics really. I've had a quick look at the brochure, and I'd guess it's older than Victorian, at least in part. There's a lot going on with different levels, brick arches, basement etc and a bit of historical movement wouldn't be unusual. It wouldn't put me off, but I'd definitely be taking professional advice and budgeting for worst case.

Thank you, perfect 👌

I'm not that surprised. Sometimes it's better to have a system that is not too reactive and reactivity can significantly reduce efficiency. I think the figures in test A are okay. But I also caution against focusing too much on just the boiler temperatures and consider radiator temperatures and room temperature changes in relation to room volume. That way you'll properly know if the whole system you've got is in the right ball park. What are your expectations of what your heating system should be doing - specifically in regard to heating the space? I'm still of the belief that to get this thing running properly, you need to add some decent modulating controls, like weather compensation - but that, I know, is not what you want.

Was there not a couple of Hipsters doing that on Grand Design over a decade ago?

I read it as he already has a building regs completion certificate. If you don't have that I would not have mentioned it. Some of us get confused.

The Iranian Navy isn't/wasn't a key player. IRGC fast attack craft and mining are. Some estimates have up to 3000 FACs/Speedboats in the Iranian orbat. Just takes a lucky RPG and a tanker is in a world of hurt (and Lloyds make others uninsurable). And I would be very surprised if Iran hasn't been building up mine stocks as that is, potentially, their key weapon in the shipping war. Dhows, fishing boats, FACs can all be used to lay nuisance minefields and the US can do little to stop it. Interestingly, heard on the news this morning that the majority of the very few ships still transiting the Straits are Chinese-owned. Clearly sailing without Lloyds insurance. Soon, the world could be buying our oil stocks from China...

Yes indeed, but for the really geeky ones of us, you've got to use Reynolds and relative roughness depending on material and even better the fluid temperature, and then using the Reynolds number you can even geek out over whether the flow is laminar, transient or turbulent 😊 This free calculator is pretty good: https://www.h2xengineering.com/pressure-drop-calculator/

So, as an update, after conferring with the installer and the Mitsubishi Ecodan helpline, it seems I can't set the system to do what I want it to do. If the hot water is scheduled to come on it will always come on, even if only half a degree below the target temp. Seems like an expensive way to heat the water by half a degree. If I take it off the schedule, it will purely be controlled by the thermostat, so switch itself on when it has dropped 10 degrees. Oh well, first world problems I guess.

Dave .... be kind ... @Lincolnshire Ian wrote ' ... Our council will start charging us council tax ...' Ian: the answer is No.

Why / how do you have a building completion certificate if the plasterboard is not yet on?

Simple diagram to use, join the dots as demonstrated with the red line

I set up our new starlink at the weekend, just resting on a workbench in the garden at the moment. I’m now mulling on how to fix it permanently. Can I ask what brackets you bought for attaching it to your house?

http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/category/the-build/ @tonyshouse detail and blog. Similar to my windows but put a sheet of OSB behind the plasterboard as my airtight layer and taped this to the windows. I didn't use any cavity closer or PIR board but rather just filled the whole thing with EPS blown beads. Another very good video. They changed the design for the next passivhaus they did. https://www.21degrees.com/guides/golcar-passivhaus:-windows-doors/ The main thing is they pushed the windows towards the outer leaf and primed the plywood boxes.

Yes they're crazily low. By my calculation the pressure drop in your longest ufh loop, 95m and flow rate of 2l/m is something like 12.8kPa. And then we have 10m on the 28mm pipework, assuming up to 7kW is just under 3.5kPa. So you are fine.

I couldn't figure out what the vertical DPC does so I cut ours off with a Stanley before the windows went in. 5 years and no issues so far.

I'm not a user, but https://www.sunsave.energy/solar-panels-advice/exporting-to-the-grid/best-heat-pump-tariffs

@DavidO I would be wary with this one, fresh cracking on an internal repair means recent movement and as you say, external pointing could mask anything. My feeling is the pretty recent works around the Brunton Residential building has caused movement or settling of the adjacent wall and could require underpinning in a pretty tight site.

This is the best I can do for the time being…

Yes the second picture of the 3 I attached shows the window which has the cracks below it, but that is as close as I can get. I also think that what might have been visible from the exterior has been masked by repointing?