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Sorry, did not spot this till now. I kept the OSB - it was anti-racking, too, and stapled the Intello directly to it. A/T tape over each staple...

Hi Mr Punter, thank you for your reply. I did mention that there wasn't a great deal of information online regarding dry verge installation. I was hoping to get a perspective from a professional or experienced DIYer regarding how much dry verge overlap would be advisable, particularly in sometimes extremely wet and windy conditions, besides the obvious, that it just looks wrong to me. Hoping for an experienced person to say whether the preference would be a small gap between slates or trimming a slice of both end slates (or both) so the dry verge would butt right up to the barge board. Thank you.

How do you do your schedule?

So no technical justification for the numbers just one manufacturer’s sales line - I’ve never seen those definitions or limiting values used elsewhere. I’ll stick with the info in relevant British Standards.

Even with a 10kWh battery we find Fast and Furious ashp program is still a cost saving in winter, because the battery is fully used time shifting the rest of our demand. (2 people working from home, with compute heavy work). For sure a larger battery would change that, but it's not a good capital investment for just a couple months a year. YMMV, but designing to work low and slow is surely the sensible starting point

Hello @frslam. This seems to cover most of the ground already explored in your thread earlier this week. A small gap between slates is good as it reduces capillary action letting in water. I understand that you considered that your roofer has not done the roof to your satisfaction and you have parted company, finishing the roof yourself or by others and you are now looking at who may owe money to whom? I am not sure how this new topic will progress things.

True @joth I forget we have PV and radiators (not a thick concrete slab for massing) which makes it a different calculation! I think that, just as with EPC's, there is no one-design fits all and that specific property equals specific design.

Low and slow for me. Minimum amount of electricity consumed for maximum comfort. What comfort actually means will only be established once I move in but "efficient" for me is highest cop.

Dear Santa. The grand-children say that this year I have been very well behaved. I haven't made them pick up spilled screws, - (I let them use a magnet) or sweep the sawdust off the floor. (I let them use the blower instead) : that was fun because they learned the value of safety goggles and a face mask. And learned the difference between steel and stainless steel. And every time they have wanted to play on the digger, I let them. I even allowed them to dig a hole so deep they couldn't get out without a ladder. I had my first glimpse of the extent of their brotherly love - one chose to take the ladder away and leave his bro stuck in the hole. I also let them use the digger to fill their Tonka lorry with sand. Ahhhh.... Since I've been a thoroughly good grandad , I'm submitting the following list for family perusal and retention A BM which automatically applies decent discounts to genuine self-builders An automated lost tool finder A digger which cannot throw a track (even when it's cross with the way I drive it) Delivery drivers who read the delivery instructions A self-propelled self-cleaning cement mixer that doesn't let mortar set in the drum Pain killers that work instantly A parrot that sits on my shoulder that warns me just before I make a mistake Tool batteries that recharge themselves A laser level that remains visible in bright sunlight Better stop there, don't want to appear greedy ....😑

Unless you couple that with a battery. Then low and slow wins.

Not to contradict this, but this is specifically true for energy efficiency. Some folks talking about efficiency actually want running cost efficiency. With TOU tariffs, in a low energy home, running the heat pump fast and furious for 5 hours of overnight cheap rate electricity can be much lower cost than the low and slow mantra has you believe. So some consideration for higher flow temperature and potentially controls to avoid specific room overshoot can be helpful if chasing low running costs. All that said, to the OP this doesn't really impact the choice of a buffer tank or volumizer, such items are less necessary for short cycling reduction if running the ashp hard, and don't help at all in effective TOU shifting of demand. (An oversized UVC however can be useful if chasing low cost tariffs)

The threat keeps them quiet. I expect the older one is a bit chewy.

We have a slam shut as well. Was advisd to keep a small keysafe with a spare in an outbuilding 🙂 Interested to see you using Tece cisterns. We've used Tece frameless, really nice product but be aware where you purchase as there are non WRAS approved units out there which can catch out the unwary, I know!

Hi all, Seasons Greetings. I have a question regarding Dry Verge (Scott Verge) on a slated roof. I received a rip snorter kick back injury so couldn't slate the roof myself, my fingers are still there but the nerve pain is ridiculous in the cold. Anyway, I employed a roofer to install membrane, Dry Verge and slate. The roof is 13400 wide x 5400 high (@ 250 wide slates, 53.6 slates - the roofer obviously didn't want to trim any and laid out 54 slates, 53 slates with a tiny gap between them would have been just about perfect imho). The slates are CUPA Heavy 3's @ 400x250. When the roofer installed the membrane and Dry Verge, he obviously just laid out the slates until they at least covered the roof and wherever the last slate landed, installed the Dry Verge. The slates were butted up tight to each other (I know in some places there should be a 2 - 3mm gap, not usual up here in the Highlands). I told the roofer that the gap between the Fascia and the inner edge of the Dry Verge was far too big, approximately 50mm too much at each end. I have another house opposite which has the same Dry Verge on a slated roof but fitted tightly to the Barge. The Dry Verge should run into the rain gutter, one of my concerns is that the way the roofer installed the Dry Verge, the rain gutter would protrude the gables excessively. There isn't a great deal of detail online regarding the placement of Dry Verge when installed with a slate roof. Personally, if it was me who was installing it, each end slate would have been trimmed by a couple of inches, or use 1 less slate per course and leave a small gap between each slate. The slater was wanting £11k for a couple of weeks (labour only), maybe it's my fault for expecting a more detailed finish. The membrane fitment in regards to the Dry Verge was terrible as well. The membrane should just 'lap' into the channel of the Dry Verge, but in fact it barely reached it. I mentioned to the roofer that I could actually see roof timbers between the membrane and the Dry verge. This caused the roofer to quit. In relation to the location of the Dry Verge (overhang), when I mentioned it to the roofer, he pointed out a line on the Verge, telling me he installed it correctly, according to that line. I thought he was just making excuses because the line he pointed to was a moulding which diverts any rainwater that gets through between any slates, into the Dry verge channel - similar to how lead can have a slight fold to divert water. He also told me that up here, we don't install membrane into the Channel because it 'wickes' water. I disagreed, membrane is designed to not wick water. The amount of slating that was done before the roofer quit was certainly nothing worth writing home about and to be honest, as peeved as I am that the roof isn't anywhere near finished, I feel that I've dodged a bullet, now that he's quit. Does anyone have the definitive answer, should the Dry Verge be fitted as near as possible to the Fascia, regardless of how many slates are used in a course? Should the slates have been trimmed by a couple of inches at each end or use 1 slate less per course and add a tiny gap between each slate? I live in the North West Highlands and exposure to sometimes severe weather extremes can add another dimension to overhangs that are excessive. The old roof was lightweight fibre cement slates and they had a slightly less overhang, although there was no dry verge fitted back then, the tiles would still sometimes get ripped off in a storm. Am I being too fussy or expecting too much? Any advice would be so appreciated. Thanks

Most efficient way to run an ASHP is low and slow: low temperature, which will mean longer to heat up. For a simple understanding: the less difference between the out side air temperature and the temperature of the heated water leaving the ASHP the more energy efficient the ASHP is running. We have ours running using weather compensation mode. At this point the outside temp is 4.6C and the ASHP is running at 40.1C. However, we are using all radiators with buffer tank and secondary pump with home temp ranging from 22 to 23 C.

That's a strange lunch your cooking up.

Happy Christmas to all. I have a 20kW oil fired boiler that fires either flat out or not at all, with ~ 15kw of rads & ~ 85L system contents, and a circ pump flowrate of a measured (smart pump) of 14.5LPM. the flow/return dT is just under 20C, (19.8C) If I fire that up from a cold water system contents of 15C, it takes 25/35 minutes to reach its target temp of 65C and burner cut out, this means the return temp is 45C when this happens so a return temp rise of 45-15, 30C, in 30 minutes or 1 degC/minute return temperature rise, so depending on the rad output to boiler output ratio, 75% in my case, probably fairly typical of most oil fired systems, gas boilers, especially the WB ith its slow ramp up might have a typical return temp rise of a bit less than this.

Assuming the heat loss column is in watts then 3320. I think that tallies with the SAPS data, although that is reams of info and hard to decipher. I'm very grateful for you taking the time to explain this. I have not managed to find anything detailed for this unit yet, just a single page data sheet, but I am looking, in between the cooking my nieces and nephew expect of me. And if the regurgitated potato the dog left for us on the floor this morning is anything to go by she needs to go to the beach. (She has since re-eaten the potato).

As you're DIYing for DHW I would recommend using Hep2O push fit. I thought it was excellent. A radial layout from the tank. 10mm pipe for everything except the showers, bath and kitchen/utility taps. Keep the UFC as close as possible to the kitchen tap. I preheated the hot manifold by convection by positioning it directly above the UFC. I'd have liked to have included a floor drain in every room with a pipe joint or a tap just in case of a leak. Next house.......

Sounds like a top spec build. Good luck with it. I think someone here built an MBC twinwall over a basement. The name escapes me. It may be an option for you.

That number I used was from Siga's website. I don't think BS defines it unless you have more insight than me? To @Rick734s question. Something like this would be fine. https://insulation4less.co.uk/products/vc2-air-leakage-vapour-control-layer-1-5m-x-50m-75m2-roll To connect the membrane to the brick I would use an airtightsealant. Orcan F is the one that popped up first. https://www.earthwiseconstruction.co.uk/product/airtightness/adhesives-primers/orcon-f-airtight-sealant-adhesive/?attribute_pa_orcon-f-size=310ml-cartridge&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21761028231&gbraid=0AAAAADqL4zA7HZs48ZWRJyFGMUuzu-U3k&gclid=CjwKCAiAu67KBhAkEiwAY0jAlZBJ-cvv1xqU3kk-2xm2BrsDsiiC-IiArhamJDFKawbitr-HRg56cRoCRbgQAvD_BwE I would always be in favor of a service cavity to avoid puncturing the airtight layer. If you have enough space 50*50mm battens work nicely for 50mm mineral wool to insulate and boost the U value a bit. Maybe Santa will bring some, I think I can hear him rattling around up on the roof.🎅

Thank you Conor, I shall speak to the SIP’s company after the holidays, maybe have to install a double panel or something to accommodate, the meter box shall back onto a storage cupboard, NIE said I could build a block built box that was attached to house but dimensions were nearly 1.8mtrs tall x 1.2mtrs wide

Of course. The index circuit is the part of the heating circuit that has the greatest pressure loss. So each meter of pipework, each fitting, like elbows, and for each valve the water in the heating system flows through there is a loss of pressure due to resistance. If you start at the outlet of the primary circulating pump of the system, often now inside the heat pump itself, you will have an available head pressure (usually specified by the manufacturer where they often provide graphs for how this changes according to flow rates) and this is what is gradually lost as the water travels through the system. The index circuit is just the total length of pipework that has the greatest resistance. Once this is known, you know whether the pump for the main circuit produces enough pressure to supply the heating circuit at the required maximum flow rate. This is what should primarily tell you if you need hydraulic separation and secondary pumps. The total resistance of the circuit is done by calculating the total heat load that is carried though each section of pipe from the heat pump to the end of the circuit along with using pipe diameter and resultance resistance of the pipe together with fittings. This should be done with every heat pump design. Yes, these are useful. There are already some discrepancies here. Earlier you said the design temperature of the system was a flow of 35C but the data re the ufh loops says the design temperature is 45/40. The tables each state the output of each manifold, being 4kW and 4.3K which is obviously more than the 5kW unit. I don't know the Samsung units so don't have the technical specs but you need to know what the heat pump is capable of outputting at your outdoor design temperature, which should be given in your design from the heat pump supplier. The tables suggest, I assume, that each manifold has less than 25kPa pressure drop across the manifold flow and returns whcih equates to about 2.5 meters head, but nothing more specific. However this can be calculated more specifically as the relevant data is there in the tables. What is the estimated heat loss calculated for your house?

Have you considered ICF, if you have a basement?

How much insulation is under the slab?