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Failing that, can you temporarily store it over winter and get rid of it after it drys out (potentially leaving time to co-ordinate removal to happen on a lorry that was coming to site to deliver something)? Double handling might make this a non-starter. But if you are doing the moving with your own equipment then maybe makes sense.

I can't help with your question, but I've moved it to the ASHP sub-forum and mentioned that it's an ASHP in the title (I would generally assume a "boiler" is gas or oil fired).

This batman is marketing to your architect, so the comments are unofficial and without merit. The Architect should have realised this. I've a lot of time for good and pragmatic specialists but am very suspicious always. The number of times I have been required at planning to do an archaeological or nature or landscaping report and works as a requirement by the same party who would make money from it. They often back down when challenged on the conflict of interest and shown why their requirement is disproportionate or plain wrong.

with 2 or 3 lesser bends and perhaps a slight tweak to pipe direction, almost any angle is feasible, and the bend ends up being gradual which is good for flow. The adjustable bend must normally be airtight surely? I'd buy Osma for once because at that price they are surely better researched and made. Build and test before backfilling to be sure.

Not sure if the heat pump installers did the purge, from the answer? Last person needs to purge air and then inhibit.

Your system looks manky. Delete the strainer and install a proper filter is step one. Is system correctly inhibited? Not a fan of glycol if your system is filled with that. If not needs a suitable inhibitor and if a low temp system biocide.

Two year old system, serviced annually has repeatedly shutdown with E911 error code. ASHP filter has been cleaned of debris 3 times (non ferrous). any ideas why this keeps happening every 3-4 days. thanks in advance. Paul photo attached

you sure you cannot change the design to reuse the muck on your site for landscaping etc ?

I had same problem and Ihave it claim it back for hmrc -with vat reclaim same as all the other stuff you will be buying zero rate will only apply if work being done by main contractor vat reclaim

They do leak they are the work of the devil, try not to use them, trying to tighten the ring with wet dirty hands is hard work.

They did. A different company installed the heat pump, UVC and most associated pipework and wiring. There was a 3 month gap between the 2 installations. Unfortunately i fell out with the original installers over their attitude to an underestimate of the amount of screed required. They were due to do everything related to the heating install.

Need some pictures and a diagram really. do you have a flat ceiling or is it all vaulted.

This case appears to me to be simple. IF the work is Permitted development - IF- and nobody in authority (other than those working on your behalf) has written to you formally to require a bat survey then one is not required. Without that formal requirement, all discussion about the issue is mere chit chat - including the hearsay related by your architect. For all you know he (she) misunderstood the context in which the ecologist referred to 'requirements' If it's not on an official piece of paper in your hands, it isn't an issue.

Hi, I currently have a single storey wrap around section to my house containing utility and toilet that is part of the original early 80's construction, as shown. It has a double pitched roof over the utility, becoming mono pitched over the WC area. Currently doing some renovation work and have all the ceilings down, this area has no insulation in the roof, which goes some way to explaining why it has always been freezing cold! What is the most practical way to insulate this roof from below, before I put new plasterboard up? I know I can just stuff some mineral wool up there, but how do I maintain ventilation? There were indicators of condensation (damp patches) on the back of the ceiling when I took it down, does that mean I already have poor ventilation and need to look at doing something to the roof construction? If I just stuff 300mm batts up there, I will have to avoid a large area around the edges to ensure I am not just contacting the felt under the tiles. Any advice or pointers greatly appreciated.

Sadly the only ideal world exists on the drawing board. I'm working to eliminate as much as I can.

In an ideal world design them out ?

[couldn't fix the edit] I'm using Osma fittings so it would be their adjustable bend. Theirs and some others don't have anything you can tighten.

Not what the OP is talking about as he's confirmed above. Again an aside to the thread but on the subject of back box earth terminals, where I've come across the odd one that's damaged I've drilled and fitted a Rivnut and ring crimp Broken screw: Rivnut tool: New earth termination vs old: Rivnut shown here on a loose back box just for clarity:

I'm using Osma fittings so it would be their adjustable bend. Theirs and some others don't have anything you can tighten. Aiyden Project had a nightmare with his Floplast ones which can be tightened, though I've seen a video that says they come pre tightened if you believe that. Floplast's adjustable output inspection chambers look cool, but I'd be nervous of leaks if using them.

I am aware that they do need to be done up very tight. That is actually quite hard to do. I have known a couple of instances where they have indeed leaked during air testing.

Decided to put a ladder up to have a look at the lantern yesterday night. Think I've discovered the main cause of the breeze! Fresh air coming straight in, condensation and some mould growth to with it. Going to attempt to weatherproof this over the weekend with a mixture of some low expansion foam for big gaps and then silicone over the top. Quality absolutely shocking!

Just an update on the RAS-B2 TRV bodies I used the Danfoss installer app to get the base line settings but over the first week I tweaked them from the suggested to get the rooms to where I want then to be. Vertical rads need more flow than suggested (no convector fins I think is the main reason). I've not had to adjust them since and room temps are rock solid and the DT on the rads are all between 5 and 7 deg. Pump output is also rock solid at 0.6 m3/hr Absolute game changer I reckon - the Wiser EB4 bodies were good and I've been happy with then for a few years but the adjustment range was too coarse from 1-3 (I ended up using a setting along side a tweak on the lockshield to get the flow rate right and this caused a little system noise and I really dislike system noise - it's me I know but I want a quiet heating system) Next thing on the list is the HW side and options are 1. Replace the tank with another vented tank but with a 2m2 coil 2. Keep the current tank but use a PHEX and reconfigure the pipework to suit that 3. Replace the tank with ASHP compatible tank 3m2 coil (and stay vented) 4. Replace the tank with direct tank but use PHEX and reconfigure pipework to suit (Vented) 5. Replace the tank with ASHP compatible tank (3m2 coil) and convert to unvented (upside is I get to ditch 2 shower pumps - downside is risk of leaks in old circuit)

I wasn't aware of any problems.

Did the installers purge all the UFH loops, or did they do the usual ‘lazy bollocks’ method of telling you to run it and the system will (eventually) “purge itself”?

Because of the word ‘commercial’. You are a domestic client, so are wires apart here afaic. Keep them on a tight leash is my 2 cents. 😌😉