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Pack on top and under the washer with say Sikaflex, BT1 etc. Push the trap down into it until it squidges out but DO NOT let it turn as you tighten the black nut. Wipe the excess off with the cheapest, unscented baby wipes and leave to set.

it’s damaged at the top of the hose right at the connection point. anyone help would save me a lot of worry

Perhaps there is time? I will add this. Some egg sucking info to be sure, as other people may be reading.. Trees drink water from the ground. if that ground is sand you just get dry sand and it is still strong. But clay is thousands of horizontal layers of silt from ancient lake beds, and there is water between the layers. So when it dries the volume reduces and the layers draw closer together, usually causing vertical shrinkage. A building with foundations on it will settle. If it is uniform then nobody really notices. Then come winter it gets wet and rises again. No harm done. The surface dries first of course because of direct heat from the sun, and because trees have tiny roots there. The hole we dug in clay last week is 1.5m deep and utterly dry. Last winter it was like plasticine. But if there is a thirsty tree or a pond on one side then it will affect the nearby wall more than others. Again it will probably recover to level but it may take longer. If someone has meantime filled any cracks or underpinned, it can cause stress elsewhere. I think the insurance industry has come to realise that they shouldn't rush the decision and it needs a proper SE to advise.

Talking through setting up heating with wife's friend earlier in the week. 4 bedroom 70s house, only have the lounge radiator on flow 75 degs. Set for a couple hours or in the morning and same at night, they are there all day. Boiler just short cycles as it can't get the heat away. Only two radiators engaged. Got them to open most the TRVs to give boiler something to work against, heating on all day and said to keep reducing flow once per day until house doesn't heat up - then add a bit of heat they have a combi. They had typical cold feet syndrome typical of radiators running stupidly high temperatures. Most stupid thing, room sealed modern boiler and their plumbers said they need a vent through the wall because they had a boiler.

Washer is shot? New washer and or plumber's gunk (thread compound that does not harden) on it and the thread.

by the great administrator.

Generally storing a chattel on land that is movable does not require planning permission ( this is a basic response 'cos planning is a complex subject - national parks, AONB etc) so you could argue that your boat is a personal possession will be movable in due course, is not permanent and thus should not be liable to PP. It all comes down to the attitude of the LPA and how much fuss neighbouring owners make. On a piece of industrial land there are likely to be fewer complaints and thus little LPA interest compared to doing this on the verge in a Cotswold village. In the latter situation the LPA can be very creative in order to pacify the public and so the aggravation factor is going to be larger. Stick to somewhere where you will blend in more. My biggest concern is whether you have been instructed to build this boat and collect animals two by two in the anticipation of .................

Do I need to replace this flexi I think I damaged it a bit changing the tap at the very start near connector it’s hose is exposed more

Is it a boat you want to build, or a pond to float it in? One thing that has always crossed my mind is what costs are involved in owning a small bit of land i.e. land taxes, insurances, access permissions.

What PP would I need to buy a small plot of land to build a boat on for my own use ? Most likley an ex industry use yard or other brownfield site but could be agricultural land or a barn.

Managed to get the plug clicker out. Reinstalled but getting very slight dripping from the black bit, just seeping out. Any ideas why? It’s super tight

Made me laugh - it was a sad laugh tho How many people would consider setting up their heating system to be more efficient or even getting a heating engineer in to do it Rads not balanced or correctly sized to the room, flow temps not adjusted with the season just set to a fixed temp and left there all winter - I've said it before but the move from non condensing boilers to condensing boilers was mostly wasted in terms of efficiency improvements for many houses in the UK because the rads stayed the same and so did the flow temps.

In the oil industry, there is a distinction between Produce and Refine. I lived on a West Indian island that produced no petroleum products at all, but refined 335,000 barrel/day. In the past the USA used a lot of heating oil for domestic heating. This is not the case so much these days. https://www.costinspector.com/research/home-heating-fuel

I've been arguing we should be moving away from ICE for transport precisely to avoid having these sorts of events. The larger the proportion of our vehicle fleet that is electric and the better our charging infrastructure the less we can be impacted by an incompetent US adminstration flailing about out of it's depth or a murderous Russian president flailing around out of his depth

"Small fraction" is over egging it. It's about 50% according to that graph. The UK produces more petrol but less diesel than it uses - which is why the petrol price rise has been less than diesel. The difference head been made up by diesel from Russia until they invaded Ukraine and then we switched to importing from the US. But in (literal) crude terms the UK extraction of crude oil is about half the UK consumption of barrel of oil *equivalent* finished products like petrol, diesel, chemicals, plastics etc. The supply chain between the stuff that comes out of the ground and the stuff you put in your tank is much more complex. With crude oil being exported to be refined abroad and then the resulting products reimported and vice-versa. For example I'm fairly certain the imports from the Netherlands are, in large part, originally from the US.

When you look at the numbers, if you aren't getting the wood for free why would you bother. But then again most boiler heating systems are set up so badly, they burn through gas at way higher rate than they should. So instead of learning how to set them up people buy a lot burner

Make your offer to buy conditional on delivery of the unit to your site.

These older houses can be built with lime mortar and a bit of movement is expected, stitch something together ridgid and you move the cracks to another part of the property. im no structural engineer but have been removing trees from properties for the last 40 years when the finger gets pointed at the tree, I’ve been on sites where you could shake hands with the neighbours through the cracks in the walls 😂😂

Now that is interesting. Worst action because.....?

Presumably imported crude oil which is refined here?

Battling a car insurance company atm. Loads of annoyance and slow response's / dodging answering driect questions etc etc. Keep on at them or you drop to the bottom of the heap.

Thanks Dave. I believe they use a Land Rover to wheel the caravan over to the low loader and then it is used as an escort vehicle. It is a point I considered because the road narrows - it's about 800 yards from main roads and starts fine but gets narrower as you go!. There is a water treatment site nearby, so in theory the lorry could go in there, unload and the land rover push it the last 100 feet or so Thanks @flanagaj The dealer said access road needs to be two 6' cars width i.e. 12' for the caravan width. I suspect whilst the road may narrow access "should" be ok, although the trees might encroach. Yes baton is a good idea, but I still think surely they are the experts so, given it is only a few miles from the dealer centre they should offer someone to check it out

We used type 3 MOT, as we require a SUDS driveway afterwards. Just be mindful that you need to wacker the surface down as our caravan got bogged down in the MOT and we had to jack it up and put shuttering ply under the wheels to move it into place. With regards to access. I was told to cut a batten 14ft long and then walk down the road holding it horizontally and then vertically. This was helpful as it showed where I needed to cut branches for the truck to get through. Make sure you have a long reach pole saw to hand as I had to stand on the front of the lorry bed and cut branches as he made his way up the lane.

Whether they can access the site depends on road surface, clear width and height along the lane, number and steepness of bends etc. How long is the lane? A plan B would be unload it at the start of the lane and tow it on it's own wheels down the lane, that reduces height needed for instance, A Landrover or similar will tow it. For ours I levelled the ground with the digger, laid 300mm of MOT1 laid and compacted in layers, and topped with small stones / large gravel. It the lane is narrow stick to buying a 10ft wide static.

You think that is bad! Had a slight contretemps with another car a while back, Ford want nearly £200 for a small bit of plastic to replace the wing mirror back cover. Literally a few pence of plastic and some paint.