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Can I have the complicated answer? I have the heat loss calculations. I'm really interested in understanding as much of it as I can and this bit is where I need a nudge.

Readings for my Vigor W325 MVHR unit just now … From outside: 8.9º To outside: 11.4º To dwelling: 20.8º Internal temperature is 21.5º.

Looking for a bit of practical advice... When we did our understairs cupboard (where all the plumbing manifolds and water main etc. are) we put in a 28mm pipe to the outside of the house for a D2 discharge pipe. Things have changed and the UVC is now going elsewhere, so we sitll have the 28mm pipe. I want to put a water softener (one of the twintec things), so assumed I can just use the 28mm pipe for the discharge. However, having got the unit, it says I need two separate drains for a discharge, and an overflow.. Given the only location to put it is in this ground floor cupboard which is the middle of the house and there is no soil/waste pipe other than the 28mm one, am I completely snookered, or can I put both of them into the 28mm pipe either directly or indirectly with separation etc.? Really want some soft water

Join a Facebook group called 8 ton and below loads of info on there regarding anything digger related.

This.

Simple answer you ASHP company should do this for you. They need to do a room by heat loss calculation anyway. They will know the UFH design, because you will pass it over to them. They will then be able to state at design temp the flow temp. Flow temp required will also vary with a screed depth and floor make up insulation etc and floor covering. So a little fine tuning may be needed.

First thing to do is put some safety glasses on. they are extremely hard and can shatter. I would look at some YouTube videos I did mine at the bucket end. you can do it a few ways, make up a puller/ pusher tool buy using some threaded rod 16mm you will need some old sockets from a socket set or buy some cheap Chinese rubbish from Amazon, get a socket the exact or just smaller than the bush add on a small extension bar, place on face of bush and whack the f##k out of it. After 3-4 whacks you will see it move. if it’s a two piece bush so one either side with a gap in the middle you can get a foot long cold chisel and put it through one bush and up against the other bush. Again whack the be Jesus out of it. it’s not a delicate operation. all sockets and extension bar will be buggered at the end so don’t borrow your mates best snap on set. 🤣🤣 SO YOU BOUGHT A DIGGER THEN. you kept that quiet. have fun.

@Hastings Great work, love the pulley approach. My parents ,now late octogenarians converted dilapidated flint stone barn late 90's. Tons of work. Only now, due to feeling the cold decided to insulate the walls with Pavatherm and lime plaster. Huge difference in comfort and minimal space lost. They also converted another shed using the approach above, internal timber frame, Pavatherm and lime. Keeps them busy!

I've seen it done with a dremmel. Or very carefully use a reciprocating saw. There's been once or twice in my time on other vehicles I've used a sharp pin to drive in behind a bushing to make it fold, but this obviously risks some damage to the surface and your bushing thickness may just make this impractical. I'm guessing you've got some kind of rig to bear the boom?

Hello all Following on from my other thread about buffer tanks and secondary pumps, I have now fully engaged with the design of my ASHP and UFH design. I am at the stage where the GF UFH is down and screeded. The UFH heating company (Mec-Serv) in Bristol has gone bust and so I can no longer ask questions. However really all I want to know is how to calculate the heat output from each loop for each room. Be gentle because maths makes my brain panic but I do have a functioning brain, it just takes me a little while. I would like to try and calculate this based on what I have, namely 16mm pipe at 150mm spacing with a given total length of loop. I guess we are going to have to assume the performance of the pipe, but how different can plastic pipe be? so presumably I have to come up with a w/m2, based on a flow rate and flow temp. I would like to plug this into a spread sheet so I can start to estimate a suitable flow temp for the given heat loss of the house. Just to note, rightly or wrongly I took the design of the UFH away from the ASHP supplier and I'm not desperate to change suppliers at this stage as I have already signed the contract and I think it would be simpler to go from here. Me, my builder and plumber and I are most likely going to do the FF UFH ourselves. I am trying to get my head around all the aspects of the maths so I know where I am. Like all things in life, it seems if I want it to be done right I have to do it myself.

Deep sand, doesn't give very good grass, as the nutrients and water just bleed away very quickly.

Top soil by the lorry load is around £35 tonne, if you are doing garden just do top soil. Any other purposes recycled concrete etc. or similar to bulk fill then hardcore all compacted.

Or just a bit of grass. it'll be either side of the central drive. I cannot remember if planning require it to be SUDs compliant. So until i get it confirmed i am working on it needing to be. Sand would do the job unless there is a cheaper filler, hence my questions. Then a topping of topsoil.

The excavator I recently purchased is a bit slack on some of the bushings and I want to replace them. I don’t have an oxyacetylene torch, welder or means of cutting them out. Does anyone have any experience of doing this. It looks like a job that could be a right xxxxxxcx if you don’t have the right tools or do it via a specific approach. it’s a 1.8T machine and uses 30mm pins.

Surely depends on what you want to do with the land after, parking, patio, flower borders or what. Does it need drainage under before you fill, does the surface water get away OK after fill ? Recycled aggregate of some sort, from crushed brick , to sand?

The (expletive deleted)ety(expletive deleted)ery of TACO, Stephen Miller and their lightweight crew has my whole German family bewitched. We're all here-we-go-yet-again. Miller= Goebbels and TACO is ....phhhh Like you, I've had to switch it off. The last 48 hours have been relative bliss. Put your strategy together with @Pocster's and we're getting somewhere I think. Thanks @Iceverge

Exactly! . You find something else to obsess about !

Now that's interesting. What you're saying is ... don't let the build flood your brain.... In the very early part of the build, I had to run a demanding job as well as the build before Debbie got promoted, allowing me to focus entirely on the build. Come to think of it, that might well have been what allowed me to become obsessed with it. And so lose sleep. Interesting. Recently I've started planning a walk along the Pyrenees (GR10) this summer. I still have to work most days on the build, but merely planning the walk - and training for it - allows me (forces me ? ) to stop fussing about build stuff. Yer a man of hidden depths @Pocster. At least 5mm ... 😑

https://www.plasterers1stopshop.co.uk/product/plasterboard-pvc-edge-bead-12-5mm-x-2-5m/?srsltid=AfmBOorQvJbCIIUOacdScHTyybmkxk6-Reoj9fvgTCU_mV-xb9e_OQqU Buy a length of the above. Dry fit it first. Just to the right of your pencil line, "holy" side nearer the glass. Get some double sided tape and stick it in place exactly. Where you want it. Use some thin self tapping screws to screw the bead onto the frame. In the valley of the bead so to speak. Dry fit some plasterboard for your reveal. Squirt some FM330 foam (NOT TOO MUCH!) on the reveal, enough to ensure a full fill of all voids and a continuous seal all around the window. Not too much that it will expand and crack the plasterboard. Anywhere you fear a leak onto the frame you should mask it off first. Slide the plasterboard into the bead and then screw onto the reveal. You will be left with. 1. A board mechanicaly secured at both ends. 2. A thorough insuation job. 3. Arrow straight reveals following the line of the bead. 4. A good key to stop skim chipping off the board near the window frame. 5. Good air sealing at the reveal to window junction with the FM330. P.S I wouldn't be tempted to use a metal bead. The frame will be colder than the rest of the room and a metal bead will attract condensation and rust over time.

Worry is what gets me, worry and eating a meal too late. ( Supper ideally on a plate no later than 5hrs before sleep, snack later if needed) Self build is often battling to get something to a standard above the humdrum, hence conflict and hence, for me, worry. I would prefer to do it myself and take years and avoid the worry or ideally only work with reliable high standards people. Both are impractical in reality. To curb the worry I have tried to give up the things that trigger me negatively emotionally. The news was the top of the list. I still consume a lot of current affairs podcasts but limit them to ones that tackle the subject dispassionately. The FT does some good ones. Instagram got the chop, Snapchat, Facebook. Not deleted the app but eradicated my accounts. All in all you're not alone. I went to the beach with the family today. It cheered us all up after a very wet January here.

Will try and remember to post one tomorrow night. If only. If I had nothing on the build worrying me I’d worry about what I didn’t know about that I should be worrying about lol

…..made of solid brass…. Are you planning on any WWF slam down matches in the shower? Or just bathing as we do here; 2 adults, 4 very unsympathetic children now teens hammering these things. Still as good and functional as the day I put these in, 7 or 8 years ago now iirc. Cheap as chips shower arm (380mm long for my 800mm wide bath) and the rainfall head was £8.99 on eBay. Died after 6 years of use / abuse, another £8.99 one went on. Looks like a £100 one, so sue me https://ebay.us/m/b0q0qC More money left over for beer. Chill out, it’ll be perfectly fine Can we see a pic of the connections on the shower valve plz?

And?

The annoying thing is that it literally trebles the number of buried joints.

I did.........it's working still ....2 years later...... Or just listen to Nick.