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Mine actually run outside to a summer house and are all boxed in. They pop through the summer house wall.

Solar panels are 21-24% efficient depending on model. Sun outputs 1000w/m2. So you can work it out. 2x1m panel is generally around 400-450w. There are a number of 'portable' solutions that use less efficient panels so you could have more of those but they are more expensive and less durable (as a tradeoff for weight/portability).

How big is an 800w kit? Presumably you can only have 1 kit per house or per ring main or whatever? I am thinking of a pergola with solar on top in summer and put away for the winter to let more light in

Do you have any pics of your pipes pre boarding the walls/ceiling? Also any of the finished units?

Exactly.

I would just do Hep2O and then slip on insulation. Depends on flow rates you need, but ours is done with 15mm.

Shows decisions can be made and quickly

Straight in to nearest plug socket - done. But only 800W max, most the time it will be a quarter of that. All without MCS, so nothing is paid for any exports.

Done it loads of times. You’ll likely need 2x 50mm to be effective, each teed separateky into the 110mm pipe vs teeing 2 off 1 x 50mm pipe. Needs the free volume of pipe CSA to function. You can also add an anti-syphon trap to the basin for a bit more AA. Does this drop a full 8-10’ down, eg first floor?

Nope. Just plug in and go AFAIK. It's all based on 800W being low enough and the safety systems within the system strong enough that no additional steps are necessary.

Possibly, other similar options are available and you can get continuous lengths of insulation to put over separately bought piping. In previous discussions Nick has suggested the insulation on those is not thick enough for proper insulation against cold flow temps (different thicknesses are available but somewhat hard to find). I suspect it's enough though if you are only thinking about moderate temps but not if you want to do proper chilled water (5-10C). In a new build I'd certainly hope to plan things to avoid fittings yes. Less to go wrong, less cost, less flow restriction (an issue with MLCP pipe), etc. If forced to have fittings I would do it using the same techniques plumbers usually use. If the fittings are particularly difficult to insulation you can get flat sheets of foam and cut/manipulate that to fit. Yes. Taping joints. Use closed cell insulation not open cell if possible or failing that have it pre-wrapped with a plastic layer (as I think your link shows).

That all seems sudden. I know we discussed it on here a few months ago, but I've not seen anything in mainsream media. So perhaps HMG follow BH for balanced and knowledgable advice.

I have had 2 topo surveys - one was 2D done 5 years ago at the request of the architect. The other was 3D with the express intention of .recording the existing boundary features prior to my neighbour carrying out work adjacent to the boundary. Obviously the first thing that happens when such work is done is that the boundary features/fences/posts/kerbs etc get removed so accurate data is necessary with the ability to gain measurements of the previous features from fixed points on the properties. Without such data disputes can be unresolvable. Neither survey included invert levels and I wish it had - very useful data - but I had no idea what an invert level was and nobody ever asked. You may wish to consider what information/data you might like regarding the boundaries of your plot while you are having the survey done. Depending on circumstances boundary disputes can arise as a result of building work, and equally diggers etc may trample out existing features. Are there old posts sticking up at a jaunty angle, perhaps buried in the centre of a hedge or other vegetation, a retaining wall, a fence you may want to replace, a neighbours garden at a different level etc etc. Some measurements like distance of a build from a boundary can be significant for fire regulations compliance, or for roof overhangs. It is IMO completely inadequate that domestic planning applications have absolutely no requirement to show the height or position of other houses - only the boundary/junction line. Planning officers are often young, ignorant, poorly paid, and put under pressure to approve plans in haste. How you can approve something when ignorant of its size relative to surrounding property is beyond me. You might also want to consider taking lots of photographs of your plot yourself and it's features and setting - possibly some with a tape measure in. (PS When my 3D survey was done they inserted some reference markers in some places into the ground/concrete - small studs. These allow someone returning to do another survey to take new measurments (e.g. of your completed house) and exactly relate them to the original survey measurements. (PPS You might also want to clarify ownership and rights regarding the digital topographic files - will they be retained by the surveyor ? Will you be sent a copy ? And will it be a RICS standard survey/ accepted at court ?)

Makes sense. So is this the type of pipe you'd use, insulated MLCP? Would it be reasonable to assume you could get this type of pipe all the way to the fan coil without having to use any fittings, e.g. elbows to get round tight corners? Otherwise how would you insulate the fittings? Would you need to make the insulation air tight so you couldn't get moist air behind the insulation?

chasing in a stud wall?

Presumably they come with a remote clamp for the meter box?

Some will be better than none, even if it isn’t in the perfect place. Let’s hope they are never tested.

Other than the fact that my multi tool wouldn’t back to back blades like that ,no, I give up. Do tell.

Remember the first priority of any politician is to get re-elected.

The UK government has officially legalised "plug-in" balcony solar panels, allowing renters and flat owners to generate their own green electricity. The legislation (SI 2026/848) takes effect on 27 August 2026, making the UK market look much more like Germany, where similar plug-and-play kits are highly popular. Key Rules of the New Legislation Plug-and-Play Setup: You can mount the panels on a balcony rail, terrace, or patio and plug them straight into a standard 13A three-prong wall socket without professional electrical installation. 800W Output Cap: Systems are strictly capped at a maximum power output of 800W per household to ensure the safety of domestic wiring.Safety Certifications: Only fully integrated, compliant kits meeting BS 7671 (Amendment 4) standards can be legally sold or used. Location Exception: While the law allowing retailers to sell these kits applies UK-wide, the specific rules legalising direct socket-connection currently only cover Great Britain (England, Scotland, and Wales), with Northern Ireland still awaiting an equivalent regulatory update. What This Means for Renters and Flat Owners No Installation Costs: Because the system uses a regular mains socket and doesn't require complex roof wiring, you avoid expensive professional installation fees. Portability: If you move properties, you can simply unplug the panels, pack them down, and take them with you to your next home. Immediate Bill Savings: The power generated feeds directly into your home circuit, meaning appliances use your free solar energy first before drawing paid power from the National Grid. A Note on Tenant Agreements - While the technology itself is now legally approved for standard electrical use, you may still need permission from your landlord, local council, or building's management company to physically mount equipment on exterior balconies, railings, or communal walls. So 800W PV plug and play kit solutions only. Does not apply to batteries only PV.

While @JohnMo is right that the dew point is often around there and as long as the pipes are above dew point condensation shouldn't be a problem, personally I would plan to insulate anyway for a few reasons: 1. It's not expensive (comparatively) and buys options to lower the flow temp in future especially during heatwaves when the dew point may increase. (people here were reporting dew points over 20C in the recent heatwave, at which point keeping the cooling water above loses a lot of effectiveness) 2. If you insulate pipes then clip/secure them around the insulation, you gain some protection against noisy pipes (either thermal expansion/contraction or noise from flows/restrictions). Ideally these wouldn't happen in the system anyway but it's cheap protection. 3. It keeps the heat/cool where you want it and not where you don't. Again ideally this shouldn't matter but lots of houses have layouts that means pipes have to go through places to get to a destination and especially when the heating is on you may not want that heat in the space.

On 2. I did a survey of levels of my plot Sunday and I did drop the staff into the manhole to check the invert level. I knew I had miles of room but its not a bad thing to record if easy access to the drain. Nice to know you can get your pipe underneath your floor build up if nessecary, or pick your ffl level up a bit if things are really tight for fall.

No, it has to be full planning. Ecology insist on that for the plot mortgage. I'm not expecting it to be knocked back completely as the site qualifies as brownfield I believe, but I might have to compromise on what I want in order to get it through. We shall see.

Yes and no. It's in a small group of houses, (many self-built) on the edge of a village with a hall that hosts community gatherings. It's 6 miles from a small town (4k people) with a co-op, doctors and a few shops. It's 17 miles or half an hour from a much bigger town with 4 supermarkets, 3 builder's merchants and a Screwfix.

18 degs is generally above dew point so most likely not