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Ideal Xmas gift people!!! 1.5 pages of illiterate joy Order now to avoid disappointment. Albeit inevitable.

The inner leaf always does the heavy lifting. Outer is just for a rain screen.

So do you notice the mismatched colour? Would you mind sharing a photo or two? You are clearly happy with things, but I've never got on with mixed colour temps in the same space though because I've always been careful I've never lived with it, just noticed in other places so I'm really curious to see if it can be made to work with careful application.

Keep seeing these threads, and still see zero point with most of what people do with automation. Waste of time and money. But fill your boots. My current lighting scheme, is side lights in the lounge from a normal light switch and 3A wall sockets. Don't need home assistant or shelly or any other smart relay. Got a box of them, all removed, in my cr@p I bought box and was waste of money. 4 years in house, no smoke or heat alarms have ever gone off. They will all be binned at year 10 and replaced with new. If they go there's an issue. Heat alarms in kitchen don't react to you burning your toast.

This surprised me. I assume you are thinking you want to avoid the need to get steps/ladder to silence the alarm after accidentally setting it off? Can't say I've ever set off my fire alarms since I've been living here >10 years and that involves some occasionally smokey cooking. If it's been a problem for you, maybe consider if your alarms are set right (heat alarms in cooking areas, etc)?

So we can build more houses. I think it’s a con and it’s punishing the wrong people and not solving the problems.

This boiler doesn't measure the dT because it doesn't have a return temperature sensor, also the pump is (customer) clamped to virtually constant speed.

I top chord hung the Posis in the main house scheme, so I'm no stranger to the longer top chords, it's normal building practice I'm less clear on! So, I can sit the Posis directly on the masonry of the inner leaf blockwork and just oversail the top cord across the cavity to the inside face of the outer leaf? I'll try and sketch something soon.

However what you also want is the ability to silence the alarm remotely.

Erm… wouldn’t this still be a block inner-block outer cavity wall to sit atop the cavity of brickwork? If so, the joists would be toothed into the inner leaf? The ends of the posis would be designed to have timber stock set into the ends of them, to sit on masonry robustly, and the top chord would just be ordered long, to fly over, and be cut as desired.

I’ve just re read your original post, I thought you were proposing to build a beam 178mm high, which I based my answer on, but looking again your saying plate both sides in ply 600mm high. Now that would work. I would want to extend the plywood onto both side walls, not finish the ends level with the sides of the opening.

Crack on.

Doesn’t sound terrible tbh, but I’m just not a fan of SIP’s vs a proper timber frame blown full of cellulose. Have you read the small print twenty times? Usually you’ll be responsible for a lot of stuff and you need that costed out before you take one more step forward, so you have a high level project cost. I was going to ask about the promised AT score, but I’m assuming 1.0ach or close to?

Yes mate, this stuff has crossed my mind. Maybe lets even get the thing bloody ordered first lol

Welcome aboard. Doing one such project down your way soon, I’ll drop you a copy of my latest hardback… ”Nicks pearls of wisdom”. A bargain at £399.99. 👌🤝

Whoa!!!!!! We could be sued for defamation if you abuse a member in such a derogatory way, and I think you should……… ………oh, hang on. Did you say @Pocster? Sorry, yes, he’s fair game. Fill your boots My apologies. 😂

Tell him to get (expletive deleted)ed.

WB certainly confirmed that the external flow sensor was reading the same as their one and presumably the return, but not sure about this one. I might have missed it but what did or do the external sensors read after a extended boiler run?. if both known, then very easy to calculate the flowrate as the constant boiler output will also be known, 40%??.

Ok 👍. I’d look at a spares kit ordered in now, o-rings / seals mostly, and possibly a spare thermostatic cartridge depending on £££. Should be 20yrs trouble-free motoring then regardless of what happens with the company / support downstream.

This is a cross water valve, parts are likely to be available. I did stay in a hotel and did like the grohe value. This valve needs 80MM though so knackers me even more!

That's my point though. Definitely? It is definitely very easy to use a steel without further thought. I'm looking at it as one of these but with ply screwed to both faces to avoid twisting. These will span up to 8m as house load joists, at 450 deep (I have done that on a commercial project where depth was not an obstacle) . I'm looking at at least that depth but double the flange timber so very strong. Plus the ply can continue past the supports for extra stiffness. AND a sliding or bifold door slides away from the centre where stress is most significant and towards the supports where it is much less. It might save me £500, and then the rest of the world can follow suit. Once upon a time I used to work these out from first principles but it would take me 3 days to get my head round the principles again. I'm not expecting one of the SEs on here to do this sum for nothing... I was seeking, and have received useful experience that nobody's has deflected and got stuck, and that everyone has a steel.. Overdesigned or just right, is another matter. Thanks for listening.

You won’t be spanning four metres with timber alone. with that wall above it will definitely deflect too much. steel flitch beams or some sort of steel beam with insulation and timber all sandwiched together.

What am I missing here. I see no need to fireproof the framing, you wouldn’t fire proof the frame of a house, so why a garage. timberframe as the structural part, steel sheets on the outside as non flammable exterior, then if you wanted you could put cement sheets on the the inside. but being as it’s in jock land what do they want.

Amen! There is Loxone and KNX at the 'low-end' and moving up there are companies like Lutron and Control4 that do stuff (been a while since I looked so might be out of date). Nothing really accessible unless you want to spend fortune on it along with specialist installers and maintenance contracts. I'm seeing a lot more commercial building solutions so maybe these filter down at some point but not getting my hopes up. The market will be dominated by Matter/Thread I've seen people plaster in mm-Wave sensors to the ceiling though can't find it right now. Some smart light switches have presence sensors behind the switch (again dont have a link). Saw this most recently whose features seem attractive, but it's not hidden (ceiling mountable though and the visible PIR sensor is removable). https://shop.everythingsmart.io/products/everything-presence-pro I wouldn't trust these sort of things to HA anyway. Best bet in my book is add monitoring to the alarm signal wire in traditional wired alarms. That way your HA system can get notification of an issue (to send alerts if you are out of the house or whatever). Not currently building but I certainly plan to have water leak detection and automatic shut off would be good.

Don't forget that when the doors are stacked you have the full weight of all doors in one place. We gave the door weights to our SE to confirm all would be ok.