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https://www.simplesurvey.co.uk/article/the-beginners-guide-to-section-6-party-wall-notices/ "Within 6 metres where your excavation will intersect a line drawn at 45° from the bottom of your neighbour’s foundations." How deep are the neighbours foundations?

I found Pocster's play list.

I warned you all back in August 2023 with the below statement.

Try this before cerium oxide: https://www.ungerglobal.com/uk/products/rub-out

Jewellers rouge aka cerium oxide works a treat to bring up scaled glass. We used to use it to get cement stains off glass. It comes in different grit sizes. We once used coarse to fine getting burn marks out of glass that some lad had caused with angle grinder sparks.

Will the absorption of all these natural energies not have some eventual knock-on effect?

A PITA, but if the glass IS actually etched, then maybe try mopping it with some G3 or G10 compound LINK as this is what I used to polish with cars back in the day when I worked for a high-end car sales as a detailer (when I had more hair and less creaky joints).

Why do you keep disrespecting people on here with this statement??????????????????????????????????????????????? Absolute and complete fecking garbage of a statement. Just untrue, non-factual, and is now wearing people down. Stop regurgitating this nonsense as it's utterly defeatist and backed up with zero facts; by your own admission here you've not once actually heated this house, so YOU DO NOT KNOW. End of. I LIVE IN THE EXACT SAME HOUSE AS YOU DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You don't own the only shit house in the UK OK!!!!! Get over it!!!!! Read that 500 times, then go away, read it another 500 times, and then LISTEN ffs. Before replying, read it all over again. And then one more time. If you can't listen, and you refuse to accept these facts (not fiction or conjecture) and continue to refuse to accept said FACTS, then you are simply beyond help (and believe me, we've been trying). 10oC is 5oC warmer than a fridge you can keep meat in. Having the house at this stupidly low temp at night is just ridiculous. Have a think if you actually came here for advice and help, or just for sympathy, as I am at the end of my tether with you ignoring what I have written, and all of what the multiples of others have written (in their spare time, for free, with only the very best of intentions). You are a horse we are trying to lead to water..............

@-rick-I don't want the controller in the sittingroom only cos it's such a cold room. Surely too, you don't want to fix one to a silly-cold surface -ie put your hand on any old wall & it's super cold all year round. IE surely this will give an excessively low reading if sensor is inside the placcy controller box. I do have orig vertical timber beams in sittingroom, but I'll not ruin any running a white cable & placcy box on. The black 720, with a black cable, might have been possible (black beams you see). What I might consider doing as a trial though, being March now, & in theory only 2 cold months left.. is set it up (if I can) more or less how you suggest, bite the bullet re.bills. But not 21*C & 18*C setback. 'My trial' would be to show you, how the 3 primary rooms here cannot possibly be warmed up by anything less than 2 jet engines; even the 'get the structure up to temp over time' idea I know isn't possible in this slate stone shell sat on clay, with uninsulated crap brick extension tagged on it's North end with 2 small rads in. 'Your trial' would be to show me that it can! Thanks, Zoot

Yes. They're called M&E consultants. These will take everything into account, and look at your heating demands holistically, including fabric and ventilation heat loss, heating emitter types, insulation and fabric standards, airtightness, oh...........and the other X factor........the good folk who actually have to live in it comfortably, afterwards .

You have still misunderstood. AFAICS with the VRC 700 you cannot have 3 different temps (though you can with the 720). See the pic from the manual I posted upthread. I have a barn conversion with thick stone uninsulated walls like yours. It is bigger than we need (except when we have guests) so we don't try and heat all of it all the time. The kitchen diner is heated by the AGA. The bedroom is heated first thing and last thing by the two rads, but the walls stay cold. The living room is heated by the two rads only from lunchtime until we go to bed. This is not conventional but works for us so I suggest you try it.

I'm not the OP and I won't be in this position for maybe 18 months, but my initial answer is no. There are so many companies offering to do, sometimes very simple things, for you for a fee, that I find it a minefield of who I should pay, who I should accept industry standard figures from and where I should lick my thumb and go by what I think sounds about right. I think all we all want is a nice warm house, that doesn't cost a fortune to heat. I drop into the category of wanting to do as much as I can myself. Are there individuals or companies recommended for heating design who don't then want to sell me anything or install themselves?

@sharpener That post was very kind, thanks. Some things actually became slightly into focus, reading that. The Mick Wall 'easy steps' link.. is still far from easy for me though. I honestly think with everyone having smartphones, I've just not gained the ability to do these complicated menu things. Plus the terminology ontop. So I'm still plodding away trying to understand the timer setting. Onward from that, the Mick Wall link is all too advanced for me. @-rick- The thing that still isn't sitting well to me, or sitting at all, is the bare fact that my cottage basically has no insulation. All this Mick Wall link, the recommendations of this way/ that way, all aren't aligned, to a house with my structural inadequacies. They all basically assume & are tethered to a house with a basic ammount of insulation. No-one comes across a house like mine. The few people who've been in the house in the colder months, simply cannot believe how cold it is here (how I live like this). This huge discrepancy between here, & your house/ any other forum member's houses/ tbh any other house, means a great deal. It means my house if it does get up to a room temp within a timed heating period, will extremely quickly lose it/ drop back to setback, & fire up again. Ad nauseum, all day. And all night too by all accounts (it'll be doing the same thing, dropping below setback pronto, & firong up to try & achieve setback level). So it'll be on almost constantly as a result. Day & night. Completely differently to your house, a normal house insulation ammount, whereby it'll be running almost the opposite way: it'll retain heat well, so won't be losing heat/ won't be firing up again very many times. Day & night. This will inevitably lead to massive increace in my bills. Which I cannot afford. So I must make a considerable compromise, in operating it, compared to the way you would use it. To the way anyone else would. You don't have this mountain of cold your system has to battle against. I simply -have- to have my max room temp, no more than 18*C. And my setback at maximum, 14*C. And my overnight setting 10*C. If it goes off sooner becuase the thermostat is in 'the warmest, box room' (that isn't a warm room tbough, to you, to any normal house's small room).. so be it. I cannot afford to run it like Mick Wall suggests. Purely due to my massive lack of insulation. So it's now just a case of trying to input these preferences, into the controller-thermostat Vrc700 box. Noise: no, you are right that in my bedroom & generally it's blissfully less noisy than before. But the small box bedroom, with all the pipes, 2 boxes, & cylinder in.. you hear the system working in there still alright. The compressor pipes emitting sound into the room when it's on. Meaning it's unuseable as a bedroom, unless you wear earplugs, if the bloody house heating is set to go dipping on-off-on-off all through overnight that is. I still just hear it in my main bedroom too: a primary reason I don't want the damn system, to be active, at night. Not a gas CH system, not a HP system. Not any CH system. Thanks, Zoot

I worked on the demob of Strangford.

I have numerous friends in Portugal, a few of whom are planning a new build, I shall pass this on to them 👍🏻

Our utility that has a fair bit of plant in it which adds a bit of heat. To dry washing, with the door closed, the MVHR does the trick overnight with ease. The good lady and I have been working outside a lot these last few months, frequently come in with drenched outer layers, on those days we hang the wet stuff in the utility room and run a small dehumidifier for a few hours to aid the drying. Works like a charm.

There me thinking people that needed dehumidifiers, really needed to sort out the ventilation - maybe they do? If we dry clothes on an air dryer in the utility, they dry fine, humidity levels bearly change in the house, certainly nothing noticeable.

Our portable heat-pump dehumidifier draws ~180W: https://www.earth.org.uk/measuring-appliance-consumption.html#dehumidifier-425/0777

I can recommend the lamb on heating grid @torre mentions it also acts as the slip membrane between insulation and screed. I also have the build hub UFH stapler if you want to borrow it. The stapler is passed member to member, I would pay for postage to you and you keep for the next user and post to them.

What are you doing about cooling? 4" Extraction pipe direct to external wall? Or are you going for a split unit ac?

Yep, we found the whole system really good! Excel sheet list, evidence with matched titles to line item. Item, source, price, vat etc etc matched them over to their online system and uploaded, and submitted. Have to say, it worked really well.

Reason I ask about ufh manifold is because gf cloaks is a bit long. If I squeeze the length 3 or 400mm I could gain a good central cupboard accessed off halfway behind shower. Basically ensuite and gf cloaks is carbon copy then can just order 2 of everything.

I'm totally in agreement but fwiw a friend who swore by raspberry pis for everything had a good solution of making them all netboot and use tempfs+overlayfs to customise their images so no SD card required. (Maybe each node had one in write protect mode i don't recall). That was 6 or so years back, I'd assume cluster management of the things has become more common since but i can't see any references for a clear how-to I like your new approach more. First thing I do with every NUC is install proxmox

Ideally UVC should be optimally placed for short pipe runs to the bathrooms/kitchen. Wherever that is (up or downstairs doesn't matter). I'm sure others will disagree with me but UFH manifold should be central and if that's not where the plant room is so be it. Can be built into a cupboard/bump-out/etc. Does need to be accessible but can be remote from other plant (unless you want to do lots of zoning or other complexity which this forum advocates against).

Yeh it's not perfect but my thought was not to steal space from the room, just reorient the space. I'm not doing this with a ruler so very handwavy. There is likely room to optimise space use between the two bathrooms if they back onto each other, etc.