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I tried removing my toilet seat to clean it and I dropped the nut inside the hole. It’s one of these close to the wall toilet. What are my options do I need to remove toilet to fix the seat

In terms of insulation they're certainly viable - there are 42 Passive House buildings using Porotherm in the PassiveHaus database, 13 of them certified. The PH database includes 1,784 new-build masonry buildings in total and - since cavity walls are unknown in most of Europe and there are only 83 UK buildings in the database - the vast majority will be solid wall construction + insulation of various types; you can view a summary of what was used.

Why MEV instead of dMEV if venting via roof. But that's another topic. Hybrid is fine as long as all the details are worked out and followed. Warm roof also fine as long as all details are worked out etc. Doesn't make either easy to do well You can do that, but you still need to fill between rafters at the wall to roof insulation gap and stop air movement and give continuous insulation layer.

We have nearly finished our office/store which we will live in whilst building the house. Around 24 sq. m. of space will be plenty for 12 months or so of living. Will save us 12k of rent plus other bills. we also have 2 containers on site, one for tools etc, the other will be for storage of furniture, clothing etc. It has also been a great way of checking out build process on main house as we will be using the same materials.

the cables here are a good 2 m.

This is a standard procedure in Australia build the steel framed garage first, fit a shower and toilet, divide off a bedroom area. move in say nothing and save £12,000 a year in rent. far more usable space than a skinny caravan. I lived in a 6x7 m cabin for 2 years with the wife and 2 dogs. The only thing we needed was more storage space, a shipping container would soon sort that out.

Interesting. I’ve seen them used in a few projects in UK, one is an award winner. The block type would be the ones with mineral wool infilled. They give good u-values off the pallet so to speak albeit you need a wall that’s like 400mm thick. No warranty here. I’ve read the opposite. Airtightness is easier as blocks are continuous with thin profile joints and have an ecoparge coat on them. As for expense, I’m thinking this could be counteracted with no need for wall ties, lots of mortar, no insulation boards to cut shimmy fill, and speed or build. Hoping the 3 members tagged can chime in, can see from searches they’ve attempted this method.

Theres no EWI. Anticipating a concrete block cavity wall with cavity fully filled 100-150-100mm. So is it possible to avoid the filling between rafters and just place boards above them?

Maybe they thought the same as I would, like “maybe I’ll say feck all and hide in there out of sight / mind”…. 🤐

A back-elbow sent my £400 Bosch down a flight of metal stairs. That provoked the purchase of my Milwaukee unit. Went from red to green line, green being MUCH better imho. I said the word (expletive deleted) a few times as I watched the Bosch going down the stairs and bouncing off a concrete floor like someone playing pinball….

Plus 1 for the Huepar, certainly good value for money.

That's how the Huepar works for self-levelling. As @Nickfromwales says they're very sensitive to any vibrations and can wobble around like anything.

That's not happening I'm afraid. When I followed your link I saw that Toupret do a big range of external products, I will look into this powder one for the smaller work and maybe a resin one for big gaps. https://www.toupret.co.uk/professional-filler/product/wood-surfaces/wood-repair-filler-white https://www.screwfix.com/p/toupret-wood-repair-filler-natural-wood-1kg/224HE?tc=JS7&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=895557794&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPyUeZdKJb4fWJQyzVOYn2BPQ&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkMjOBhC5ARIsADIdb3eeVmP0gJAcT6hADzZZVxvyI8Zn5Qvb7FE9IJQidD9BaJTrhiBXTDsaAhMGEALw_wcB

If you have external insulation you will need to work out how to fix battens / counterbattens. You will need a lot of very long fixings. I think the helical type work well. Expect to spend about £7/m2 in fixings for counterbattens.

I've never used a laser level so am not able to recommend. However 2 things to say. The big names such as Leica , when I used them every day by sight to a staff, were much more accurate than the others and were adjustable and repairable. No electronics, just lenses , prisms and a pendulum. The latter is what needed adjustment. Is that still how lasers function, gravity on a pendulum? No matter how good they are, there is a lot of skill in using them properly, especially in challenging conditions.... I know this from picking up the mess from workers who thought having a laser level was the whole answer. And 3rd of the 2!. Learn the principle of equal back-sight and fore-sight for anything more than a room distance. 4th, treat them very carefully.

We used these just over 2m drop https://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-baldwin-pendant-ceiling-cord/aged-pewter/p4031404?s_ppc=2dx_mixed_home_BAU&tmad=c&tmcampid=2&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20151162426&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkMjOBhC5ARIsADIdb3e018nJStjsUEt-ErNA1IrlolkQN4ZtWLq-x2XY89o9wJtRERm3ZEwaAtWCEALw_wcB

Another with a huepar and would also recommend. Mine went out of level through an accident on my part, a video of me running the calibration test and they sent me a new unit.

Yes, Huepar are great as is their warranty support. I had a lazer go on one of my units, they asked for a video, and then immediately shipped out a replacement for me. I've now had three! But I will warn you that although they're robust, don't kick them off the top of a roof so they bounce all the way down the ladder - they're not designed for that I found out, but the unit still worked for a couple of years without the protective screen over a lazer!

I'm sure I saw at one point the gas contribution was less than the amount we were exporting ie the only reason we were burning gas was for export.

We have a sloping ceiling in our open plan living area. Over the kitchen island we have 3 pendant lights that hang down. Each cable is about 1m. At each end of the cable there is a "grommet" on the fitting (i.e. at the ceiling rose, and the light "socket") that has a plastic grommet screw that holds the cable - these take the strain of the weight than the cable screws inside the fittings.

Yes, for concrete blocks.

Yeah so you’re actually right. I asked and got answers. You run cables through a flexible metal ducting behind the cavity walls or any walls for that matter. Then pull through, cut brick, always at joints for easier installation of back boxes.

Would that mean I’d be looking at a between and above solution then, like hybrid roof? Forgive my lack of understanding, I was under impression you could just plonk a ton of board on top of the rafters reducing the need to cut and fill? Aesthetic reasons, the soil stacks are also venting via same method so no visible pipes externally.

Currently exploring this by use of them clay blocks which don’t require EWI either. What would a proposed build up be for single skin concrete blocks wall with EWI, lay flat on belly?

I'd guess that they've run round plastic conduit with 90° bends, either in the cavity, or chased into the cavity face of the brick. They may have used singles (single wires, rather than twin-and-earth cable) to make it easier to pull the wires through. If you look at the photos, they've only done this in a few places, not throughout, which would make it less of a pain.