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I recommend an armchair, tea and some biscuits at 3PM https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/brand/b006qp2f

So, PaulHeat have calculated as below, I think that means we need a unit(s) to do 438 m3/hr max. They suggest either 2 x zehender 450 or 1 x 600 - I'm not sure why if we need 438m3/hr, we can't have 1 x 450, is it to do with the l/s do you think? Anyway, if we need one or other of those options any opinions on 1 or 2 units? (We may go for the Ventaxia units but undecided, same Q re 1 or 2 units though) Initially I thought is it easier to have 2 units so that we have less logistical issues ducting from 2nd floor plant room to gf (we could put the 2nd unit in the utility room on the gf) but, I'm not sure if that's reason enough to buy 2 units! Any thoughts?

The BCO might not, but the assessor for any new owners mortgage should. At the very least their solicitors will ask for paperwork during searches to confirm that the EV charger (or boiler or solar) has an installation certificate and up to date servicing record.

Calm down dear 🙂 Solar panels are already Mandated by the Future Homes Standard - PV panels are now cheaper than roof tiles so it isa win-win for the builder as well. Would a swimming pool help reduce the load on the national grid, or provide a habitat for wildlife? Of course not. Another strawman argument. All of the rules that go into building regulations are assessed against safety and societel needs. And apply to NEW BUILD not retrospectively unless a particular modification of your existing building brings it within scope (as with insulation or electrical upgrades) Having said that, anyone who can afford to install solar panels but chooses not to (somehow paying for a new kitchen is more popular!) are only spiting themselves.

Maybe. When was the last time they fired up the boiler on the way round though

In an ideal world, all insulation upgrades - EWI, and espescially IWI - should require building control submission, approval, and sign off. They should not be permitted until a full report is produced by the installer and submitted to BC for assessment, including; WUFI, Visual assessment of existing building and issues to be resolved before insulation works commence (pointing, broken gutters, existing cold bridges, etc) Method statement outlining how the installation will be handled - particularly highlighting cold bridging issues and weatherproofing This would then be agreed in priciple by BCO (surely A.I. can assist with this stage), pending final inspection (by a trained BCO assessor) and sign-off after completion. This would weed out the bandits and make the whole industry more proffessional - even the good guys sometimes make mistakes and a system of peer review is essential. Unfortunately it will never happen, as Building Control departments for all councils have been defunded in real terms in the last 20 years, and the private BC companies already have more work than they can handle.

I think even the RHS is slowly starting to come around to the idea that destroying soil structure by repeatedly digging over is counter productive. I've wasted far too many hours watching Charles Dowding talk about no-dig methods on YouTube. He has an incredibly relaxing presentation manner.

We’re covering a small area of UFH (which was too shallow to lay the dry screed) with self levelling compound. In searching about SLC I’ve seen mention of a primer - is this always needed? The SLC will be onto a slip membrane which is over the pipes. This is the stuff I’ve been recommended to use.

The other rationale for a DNO limiting inverter size could be customer tampering with G100 settings?? AFAIK G100 settings are supposed to be password protected with an installer/manufacturer password that the customer doesn't know. There's been several posts on here where people have said they'll lift the export limit above the DNOs approved limit as they have the installer password. The battery inverter I've just installed has a single password that protects G100 settings and all "advanced" settings including TOU charge scheduling. Technically I shouldn't have access to the G100 settings but legitimately have access to the TOU settings so this inverter is poorly designed from a G100 compliance perspective.

Thanks Gus. For others note that the summary wanders into other posts and discussions than the original. May I endorse the ' no dig' principle. It really works. Let the worms, cardboard and your vegetable waste do the work and save on fertiliser. They don't get the bricks out though. Youwon't hear much about no-dig on Gardeners' World as they 1. Have staff. 2. like digging for mental health reasons. 3. Are old school. On trees: I've had an apple tree die, I think drowned over the winter. Decorative: l like Rowan and silver birch anyway and so will be planting some in wet areas.

These EV chargers have a display panel. If your BCO was awake ( and cared) they might notice if its not working.

I think mandating a charger is going beyond their remit. Ill be fitting a dummy or spares and repairs to my next place unless we have an EV. If the bco turns up and there's one on the wall id imagine they would be happy. Anyway what happened to the granny charger leads that could be a charging point with an outside socket

The fact that most are poorly installed cant be a surprise, except to the morons signing off said schemes. Everytime free money is on offer, the cowboys arrive. Every, single, time. Of course, with EWI, its compounded because its a job that really does need careful analysis, and fitting. And the potential damage of it not be so, very significant. The visual aspect is valid, but we cant stop people upgrading houses, otherwise noting will ever change. But i certainly wouldnt do it to my house!

Good thing you dont live in wales then. Plaid affiliated quangos are pushing this one hard. Ie, support destroying the countryside with windmills and pylons, and offer token bribes of free money to not complain about them. Under the cover of claiming they will be "community owned". Given that Plaid will likely have more seats after the election than anyone else, there a possibility it might happen. We will gloss over the "interests" that various key figures have in said energy companies. Quite why a small community wants to own or part own a liability like a field of wind turbines is beyond me. The liabilities will be huge. Anything serious goes wrong, said community will be bankrupt. Still, if we elect lunatics, then lunatic ideas get implemented.

I had one shot at capturing the facebook post.. it goes on for miles but have pasted the raw copy of it at the end. My own view as being a dabbling gardener in the clay soils in the central belt of Scotland, and coupling that with my day job as an SE who designs foundations in clay soils here is what I kind of know to get my garden to grow in clay soils. The drainage is always an issue. But lets look at what clay soils have and how to unlock the benefits. Clays soils in general are full of trace mineral elements that plants need. In some ways all you need to do is to break them up enough to allow the plant roots a fighting chance to access. I tend to use a bit of concrete sand and dig that in. A concrete sand is roughly 5.0mm to fines, readily availble and is maybe the best cost effective thing to use. Often it's left over stuff from a buld. Into that you can dig in your compost, or mulch on top. If you have lots of free draining soil (say a South Downs weak chalk.. my SE hat on here) then any nutrients get washed down quickly before the roots get a chance to capture it. In some ways you need the water to dissolve the minerals in the clay so the roots have enough time to take up the trace minerals. Am I making sense here? Forgotten account? Improving drainage in clay soil gardens in Scotland Summarised by AI from the post below Where Rain Dances and Heather Sings · David Gallacher · Admin · 2d · Ah, the classic "new build" garden struggle. It’s a common tale in Scotland: developers scrape away the good stuff, compact the subsoil with heavy machinery, and then throw a thin "carpet" of topsoil over a heavy clay base. Because clay is composed of tiny, flat particles that pack tightly together, it acts like a literal bowl, holding water right where your grass roots are trying to breathe. Here is the breakdown of what you’re dealing with and how to fix it. The "Clay Sandwich" Breakdown Description In this setup, you have a layer of porous topsoil sitting directly on top of an impermeable clay layer. In the Scottish climate—where "liquid sunshine" is frequent—the topsoil saturates quickly because the water has nowhere to go once it hits the clay "shelf" beneath. Pros & Cons Feature Pros Cons Nutrients Clay is actually incredibly rich in minerals and holds onto nutrients well. It’s hard for roots to penetrate, meaning plants can't access those nutrients. Moisture Excellent water retention; plants won't dry out quickly in a heatwave. Prone to waterlogging, "puddling," and root rot during winter. Workability The topsoil layer is easy to plant in initially. Dries into "concrete" in summer and turns into a "muck heap" in winter. How to Deal with Poor Drainage If your garden feels like a sponge, you need to break the "bowl" effect. Vertical Drainage (The "Airlock" Fix): Use a hollow-tine aerator or even a garden fork to punch deep holes through the topsoil and into the clay. Fill these holes with horticultural grit or sharp sand. This creates "chimneys" that allow water to bypass the surface and move deeper. French Drains: If the waterlogging is severe, you may need to dig a trench (sloping downhill) filled with perforated pipe and gravel. This redirects the water to a soakaway or a lower part of the garden. The "Rain Garden" Approach: Instead of fighting the water, embrace it. Dig a shallow depression in the wettest area and plant moisture-loving Scottish natives like Filipendula ulmaria (Meadowsweet) or certain Iris species. What to do with Topsoil over Clay The biggest mistake is leaving the two layers separate. You need to incorporate them to create a transition zone. 1. The "Dig-In" Method If the garden isn't turfed yet, do not just lay more soil on top. You need to mix organic matter (well-rotted manure, compost, or bark fines) into the clay layer. This is called "improving the structure." The organic matter acts like a wedge, keeping the clay particles apart. 2. Boost the Biology Apply a liquid seaweed fertilizer or a "soil conditioner." These encourage earthworms to do the heavy lifting for you. As worms move between the topsoil and clay, they create natural drainage channels (macropores). 3. Build Up, Not Down If the clay is truly impenetrable, stop fighting it. Build raised beds. By adding 20-30cm of high-quality loam on top of your existing soil, you give plant roots enough "dry" space to thrive above the water table of the clay. 4. Choose the Right "Thirsty" Plants In Scotland, you want plants that can handle "wet feet" in winter but don't mind the clay. Shrubs: Cornus (Dogwood) or Sambucus (Elder). Trees: Betula pendula (Silver Birch) or Sorbus aucuparia (Rowan) are hardy and help suck up excess moisture. More shrubs To thrive in the "clay sandwich" of a Scottish new build, you need plants that are "plastic"—meaning they can tolerate being waterlogged in a soggy January but won't give up when the clay bakes hard in July. Here is a list of plants that are hardy enough for the Scottish climate and the structural challenges of clay. 1. Trees (The "Hydraulic Pumps") These trees are excellent at drawing moisture out of the ground. In a small new build garden, look for "Columnar" or "Erecta" varieties to avoid overhanging the neighbours. Sorbus aucuparia (Rowan/Mountain Ash): A Scottish staple. It’s incredibly tough, handles heavy soil, and provides berries for birds. Betula pendula (Silver Birch): Naturally grows in damp areas. Its roots are great at navigating compacted soils. Amelanchier lamarckii (Juneberry): A "serviceberry" that offers white spring flowers and great autumn color. It is very tolerant of damp clay. Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn): Practically bulletproof. It will grow almost anywhere and provides excellent nesting sites. 2. Shrubs (Structural & Hardy) Shrubs for clay need to be able to handle "wet feet" without their roots rotting. Cornus alba (Red-barked Dogwood): Loves damp soil. The bright red stems look stunning against a grey Scottish winter sky. Viburnum opulus (Guelder Rose): A native shrub that thrives in heavy, moisture-retentive soils. Sambucus nigra (Elder): Extremely vigorous. Varieties like ‘Black Lace’ offer dark, fern-like foliage that looks high-end but is very "clay-hardy." Hydrangea macrophylla: These love the moisture that clay provides. In acidic Scottish soils, your pink hydrangeas will likely turn a vibrant blue. Rosa rugosa: If you want a hedge, this rose is incredibly tough and won't mind the heavy soil. 3. Herbaceous Perennials (The "Fillers") These plants will return year after year, spreading their roots to help break up that topsoil-clay interface. Geranium (Hardy Cranesbill): Specifically Geranium rozanne. It’s a workhorse that covers the ground and masks the cracks that appear in clay during summer. Persicaria affinis: A fantastic groundcover that forms a dense mat, preventing the topsoil from washing away in heavy rain. Iris sibirica (Siberian Iris): Unlike Mediterranean irises, these love damp, heavy soil and have structural, sword-like foliage. Astrantia major (Masterwort): Very trendy and very tough. They thrive in the cool, moist conditions common in Scottish gardens. Alchemilla mollis (Lady’s Mantle): It’s nearly impossible to kill. It catches raindrops on its leaves and self-seeds happily in clay. Helleborus (Lenten Rose): Great for winter interest; they have deep roots that can penetrate into the clay layer once established. Pro-Tip for Planting in Clay When you dig your planting hole, avoid making a "sump." The Bucket Effect: If you dig a hole in clay and fill it with lovely compost, you’ve essentially created a waterproof bucket. When it rains, the water will sit in that hole and drown the plant. The Fix: Always "rough up" the sides and bottom of your planting hole with a fork to create cracks for roots to enter, and try to plant "slightly proud"—meaning the top of the root ball is about 2-3cm above the soil line, mounded over with topsoil. Improving the soil Improving soil that consists of a "clay shelf" requires a change in perspective: stop thinking about digging deep and start thinking about building up. In Scotland, where the rain can be relentless, the "No-Dig" method combined with heavy mulching is actually superior to traditional digging. Digging often damages the delicate soil structure and can turn wet clay into a compacted, anaerobic mess. 1. Improving Soil with Compost & Mulch Mulching is the act of placing a thick layer of organic material on top of the soil. You aren't mixing it in manually; you are feeding the organisms that will mix it for you. The "Ooze" Factor: In a new build, the topsoil is often "dead" (low in microbial life). Adding compost introduces bacteria, fungi, and worms. How to do it: Apply a layer of well-rotted garden compost or manure at least 5–10cm thick across your beds. The Timing: The best time in Scotland is late autumn or early spring. In autumn, the worms work through the winter. In spring, it helps retain moisture before the clay bakes hard in July. Don't Skimp: A thin dusting won't work. You need enough mass to suppress weeds and keep the soil surface from "crusting" over. 2. The "No-Dig" Method The No-Dig method is perfect for clay because it uses gravity and biology to do the hard work. Instead of breaking your back with a spade, you create a "lasagna" of organic matter. Step-by-Step for New Build Clay: Mow/Flatten: Cut any existing weeds or scruffy grass as short as possible. Don't worry about digging out the roots. The Cardboard Base: Cover the area with large sheets of brown corrugated cardboard (remove any plastic tape). Overlap the edges by 15cm so weeds can’t peek through. Why? This smothers weeds and creates a damp, dark environment that attracts earthworms. The worms will travel up from the clay to eat the cardboard, creating drainage tunnels as they go. The Compost Layer: Spread 10–15cm of compost (green waste compost or well-rotted manure) directly on top of the cardboard. Plant Directly: You can plant your shrubs and perennials immediately by cutting a small "X" through the cardboard and tucking the root ball in. Annual Top-Up: Every year, add another 2–5cm of compost on top. Never dig it in. Why No-Dig is Better for Your Garden Feature Traditional Digging No-Dig Method Soil Structure Destroys natural drainage channels. Preserves worm tunnels and fungal networks (mycelium). Weed Control Brings buried weed seeds to the surface. Smothers weeds and prevents new seeds from germinating. Effort Back-breaking and messy in wet clay. Easy to set up; requires only a wheelbarrow and rake. Drainage Can create a "hard pan" (compacted layer) at the base. Gradually improves vertical drainage as biology improves. A Note on "Scottish" Mulches If you are in a coastal or rural area of Scotland, you might have access to unique mulches: Seaweed: Excellent for clay. It breaks down quickly and adds a massive boost of trace minerals. Wash it briefly to remove excess salt if you gather it yourself. Bark Fines: Good for aesthetics, but ensure they are "fines" (small pieces). Large bark chunks can temporarily "lock up" nitrogen as they decompose. The Golden Rule: Never walk on your soil, especially when it's wet. In a new build, compaction is your #1 enemy. Use "stepping stones" or temporary wooden planks to spread your weight when mulching. All reactions: 28 Sheila Sanderson As a young woman I attacked the clay pan in my garden with a pick axe. Broke the handle too. But the flowers loved the soil afterwards. 1d Emma Best Sophie Maria an article on Scottish clay soil 1d Other posts What is a good number of plastic pots to keep and are they recyclable? Summarised by AI from the post below Where Rain Dances and Heather Sings · Sue Scott · 1h · I know there's no real answer to this, but am clearing out my shed and I have hundreds of plastic pots does anyone have a rule of thumb number of pots that's worth keeping? And also are there particular sizes that are worth hanging on to? I'm thinking probably the small ones for potting on.... Also, are they recyclable?? All reactions: 3 Lynn Asher My local B&Q take them for recycling too 58m Jay Webster Put them on a freebies page as I'm sure they'll be snapped up. 58m Liz McManus I keep all my pots. I have reused them frequently and sometimes run out of pots even so! 1h 3 of 7 Building raised beds for vegetables in Scotland Summarised by AI from the post below Where Rain Dances and Heather Sings · David Gallacher · Admin · 2d · Raised beds ( vegetables ) In Scotland, raised beds are often the "secret weapon" for a successful harvest. They solve the common Scottish gardening issues of heavy clay soil, high rainfall (improving drainage), and a shorter growing season (warming up faster in the spring). Here is a brief guide to building and using raised beds tailored for the North. 1. Materials: Pros & Cons Choosing the right material depends on your budget and how permanent you want the beds to be. Material Good Points (Pros) Bad Points (Cons) Pressure-Treated Timber Good..Affordable, widely available, easy to work with. Bad...Will eventually rot (lasts 8–12 years); chemicals in modern treatment are safe but some prefer untreated. New Sleepers Good...Heavy-duty, long-lasting, provides a wide "seat" for sitting on while weeding. Bad...Very heavy to move; can be expensive; require long timber screws. Galvanised Metal Good....Modern look, won't rot, excellent heat retention in spring. Bad....Can get very hot in direct sun (drying out soil); expensive to buy as kits. Brick / Stone Good....Extremely durable (lasts decades), looks traditional in Scottish gardens. Bad....Hardest to build (requires mortar); permanent (impossible to move later). 2. Height, Depth, and What to Grow The height of your bed dictates what will thrive. In Scotland, a minimum of 15–20cm is recommended to clear the often cold, wet ground. Shallow (15–20cm): * Best for: Salad leaves, spinach, radishes, spring onions, and herbs (chives, parsley). * Scottish Tip: Good for early-season salads that you want to harvest quickly before the weather turns. Medium (30–45cm): * Best for: Carrots, onions, beetroot, garlic, and leeks. * Scottish Tip: This depth is ideal for carrots, as it raises them above the "flight path" of the carrot root fly (which usually flies low to the ground). Deep (60cm+): * Best for: Potatoes, parsnips, brassicas (Kale, Cabbage, Broccoli), and runner beans. * Scottish Tip: Tall beds are easier on the back and help hardy crops like Kale stay out of the reach of rabbits. 3. Step-by-Step: Building a Wooden Raised Bed For a standard 2.4m x 1.2m bed (the "golden ratio" for reaching the middle from both sides). * Preparation: Level the ground. You don't need to dig up grass, but it helps to scalp it short. * Cut Timber: Use four lengths of treated timber (e.g., 2 lengths at 2.4m and 2 at 1.2m). * Fixing: Use stainless steel or galvanised wood screws to prevent rusting in the damp Scottish climate. Butt the short ends against the long ends. * Support: Drive a small wooden stake (45cm long) into the inside of each corner. Screw the planks into these stakes for extra stability. * Fill: Use a mix of 60% topsoil and 40% organic compost. * Pro Tip: For deep beds, use the "Hugelkultur" method: fill the bottom 1/3 with old logs and twigs to save on expensive compost and improve drainage.( See below) 4. Lining the Bed Should you line it? In Scotland, the answer depends on your goal: Sides: Line the inside walls with heavy-duty black plastic or pond liner. This prevents the damp soil from being in direct contact with the wood, significantly extending the life of the timber. Note: Do not cover the bottom with plastic. Bottom: If building on grass, line the bottom with thick cardboard (remove any tape). This smothers weeds and grass but eventually rots away, allowing worms to move up into your bed. Pest Control: If you have moles or voles, staple galvanised wire mesh (chicken wire) to the bottom before filling with soil. Filling To fill a 1m x 1m raised bed, the volume is easy to calculate because the area is exactly 1 square metre. The amount of soil you need depends entirely on the height of your timber. Because soil and compost settle by about 10–15% after the first few waterings, I have included a "settlement factor" in the bag counts below to ensure you don't end up with a bed that looks half-empty. Soil Volume Requirements (1m x 1m Bed) Bed Height Total Volume (Litres) Number of 50L Bags Best For... 15cm (Low) 150 Litres 3–4 Bags Salads, herbs, radishes 30cm (Standard) 300 Litres 6–7 Bags Carrots, onions, beetroot 45cm (Deep) 450 Litres 9–10 Bags Potatoes, brassicas, beans 60cm (High) 600 Litres 12–13 Bags Deep roots & "No-bend" gardening Cost-Saving Tips for Scottish Gardeners Buying individual 50L bags can get expensive for deeper beds. In Scotland, many local "Landscape Supplies" or "Topsoil Merchants" sell Bulk Bags (often called "Dumpy Bags"). A standard Bulk Bag is usually 800 to 1,000 Litres (1m^3). * For a 45cm or 60cm bed, a single bulk bag is often cheaper than buying 10+ individual bags from a garden centre. The "Hugel" Base: If you are building a 60cm bed, don't fill the whole thing with expensive compost. Fill the bottom 20cm with fallen branches, old logs, and upturned turf (grass side down). This provides long-term drainage and saves you about 4–5 bags of soil. The Ideal Fill Mix For the best results in a raised bed, don't use 100% garden soil (which can compact) or 100% compost (which can dry out). Aim for a "Scottish Blend": * 60% Topsoil: For structure and mineral content. * 30% Multi-purpose Compost: For nutrients and moisture retention. * 10% Well-rotted Manure or Leaf Mould: To feed the soil biology. Hügelkultur (mound culture) or Lasagna method In a deep raised bed, filling the entire volume with high-quality compost or topsoil is not only expensive but actually unnecessary for the health of most plants. Instead, you can use the Hügelkultur (mound culture) or Lasagna method to fill the bottom layers with organic "waste" that will break down over time. 1. What to Use as "Filler" You can use various materials you likely already have in your garden or home. Layer these from coarsest (bottom) to finest (top). * Logs and Thick Branches: Ideal for the very bottom of beds deeper than 45cm. They act like a sponge, holding moisture during dry spells. * Twigs and Prunings: Great for filling gaps between larger logs. * Cardboard and Newspaper: A thick layer of brown cardboard (tape removed) at the base smothers grass and weeds perfectly. * Grass Clippings & Green Waste: These are "Greens" (nitrogen-rich) and help speed up the decomposition of the woody "Browns" below. * Inert Fillers (For non-organic drainage): If you just need height and don't care about the organic benefits, you can use upturned turf (grass side down), stones, or broken bricks at the very bottom (though organic materials are better for soil health). 2. The Layering Strategy Think of your raised bed like a "soil lasagna." Here is the ideal breakdown for a 60cm deep bed: * Bottom Layer (20-30cm): Large logs, heavy branches, or rocks. * Middle Layer (10-15cm): Twigs, dry leaves, grass clippings, or semi-rotted manure. * Top Layer (20-30cm): Your "Growing Medium" (The high-quality soil mix). 3. How Much Growing Medium on Top? The "Growing Medium" is the clean, weed-free soil/compost mix where the seeds actually germinate. The depth you need depends on what you are planting: Plant Type Minimum "Clean Soil" Depth Why? Salads & Herbs 15cm They have very shallow roots and won't reach the "rough" filler below. General Veg (Onions, Peas) 20cm Provides enough stability for the plant to anchor its roots. Root Veg (Carrots, Parsnips) 30cm+ Crucial so the roots don't hit a log and "fork" (split into two). Potatoes 30cm You need space to "earth them up" (add soil as they grow). Pro Tip: Because the organic filler (logs/leaves) will rot and shrink over the first year, your soil level will drop by about 5–10cm. Always fill the bed to the very brim at the start; by the time you plant, it will have settled to the perfect height. Varaties In Scotland, the key to success is choosing varieties that are "bolt-resistant" (to handle the long daylight hours in June) and "winter-hardy" (to survive the damp cold). Raised beds are perfect here because they keep roots out of the "cold-sump" of the sodden ground. Here are the best varieties for different regions of Scotland: 1. Top 5 Varieties for the Whole of Scotland These are "tried and tested" classics that thrive from the Borders to the Highlands. Leeks: Musselburgh – An iconic Scottish heritage variety. It is incredibly hardy and can stay in the ground through the harshest frosts. Kale: Pentland Brig – Developed at the Scottish Plant Breeding Station. It provides "hungry gap" greens in early spring when nothing else is growing. Potatoes: Pentland Javelin (First Early) – Great for raised beds. First early varieties are harvested before the "blight" season usually hits in the humid Scottish summer. Carrots: Autumn King – A robust variety that handles heavier soils well and is less prone to splitting in wet weather. Broad Beans: Aquadulce Claudia – Can be sown in late autumn to overwinter, giving you a harvest weeks before spring-sown crops. 2. Regional Considerations West Coast & Islands (Wet & Windy) The challenge: High rainfall and Atlantic gales. Vegetables: Stick to low-growing crops that won't be snapped by the wind. Varieties: * Chard (Bright Lights): Adds colour and stands up well to rain. Spinach (Emilia F1): Very mildew-resistant (essential for the humid West). Cabbage (Durham Early): Pointed heads that shed water effectively, preventing rot. East Coast (Cold & Dry) The challenge: "Haars" (sea mists) and biting North Sea winds. Vegetables: Crops that can handle a slower start in the spring. Varieties: * Broccoli (Purple Sprouting): Needs the winter chill to produce its spears. Onions (Sturon): Very reliable and rarely "bolts" even if the spring is erratic. Beetroot (Boltardy): As the name suggests, it won't go to seed if a late East Coast frost hits. Central Belt & Borders (Milder but Frosty) The challenge: Unpredictable late frosts in May. Vegetables: A wider range including some "tender-ish" crops if sheltered. Varieties: * Peas (Hurts Greenshaft): High yielding and sweet even in cooler summers. Radish (French Breakfast): Grows so fast (3-4 weeks) that you can squeeze a harvest in between frost snaps. 3. The "Highland" Strategy In the North, your growing season is significantly shorter. Speed is everything: Look for varieties labelled "First Early" or "Quick-Maturing." The "Poly-Crub" or Tunnel: If you are in the far North (Shetland/Orkney), use your raised beds inside a tunnel or cover them with heavy-duty horticultural fleece from March to May to "cheat" the climate by about 3–4 degrees. Location to build raised beds In Scotland, the "best" location is a balance between chasing the sun and hiding from the wind. Because the sun sits lower in the sky here than in the south, shadows are longer and the "Beast from the East" or south-westerly gales can do more damage than the cold itself. Here is how to scout the perfect spot in your garden: 1. The "Golden Rule": South-Facing In northern latitudes, light is your most precious resource. Target: Aim for a spot that gets at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight in the height of summer. The South Wall: If you have a south-facing brick or stone wall, place your beds against or near it. The wall acts as a "heat sink," absorbing warmth during the day and radiating it back at night, which can extend your growing season by several weeks. 2. Strategic Shelter (The Wind Factor) In Scotland, a "sunny but exposed" spot is often worse than a "partially shaded but sheltered" one. Wind physically chills the soil and "sandblasts" young seedlings. Prevailing Winds: In most of Scotland, the strongest winds come from the South-West. Use a hedge, fence, or the house itself to break this wind. Permeable Barriers: A solid fence can cause "turbulence" (the wind jumps over and dumps down on the other side). A trellis or a "hit-and-miss" fence is better as it filters the wind rather than blocking it. Avoid Frost Pockets: Don't put beds at the very bottom of a slope. Cold air is heavy and sinks; it will pool at the lowest point, creating a "frost pocket" that lingers long after the rest of the garden has thawed. 3. Bed Orientation: North-South vs. East-West This is a common debate, but for Scottish raised beds, there is a clear winner: North-South Orientation: Run the long side of your bed from North to South. The Benefit: As the sun moves from East to West, it hits one side of the bed in the morning and the other in the afternoon. This ensures that tall plants (like Peas or Beans) don't cast a permanent shadow over their smaller neighbours (like Lettuce). 4. Practical Logistics Proximity to the Kitchen: You are much more likely to use your herbs and salads if the bed is within "slippers distance" of the back door. Water Access: Raised beds dry out faster than the ground. Ensure you are within reach of a hose or a water butt. Carrying heavy watering cans across a boggy lawn in May is a chore you'll want to avoid. Level Ground: While the bed solves the issue of a slope for the plants, the timber frame needs to be level. It’s much easier to build on a flat area than to "step" the timber down a hill. Summary Checklist for your Scottish Spot: [ ] Is it away from overhanging trees? (Trees steal light and rain). [ ] Does it avoid the shadow of the house? (Watch where the shadow falls at 3 PM). [ ] Is it protected from the South-West wind? [ ] Can you walk all the way around it? (Leave at least 60cm for a path/lawnmower). Paths In Scotland, the space between your beds is just as important as the beds themselves. If you don't plan your paths, they will quickly turn into a "glaur" (a muddy mess) during the long, wet months between October and April. Here are the best materials for Scottish garden paths, ranked from easiest to most durable. 1. Woodchips (The "Natural" Choice) This is the most common choice for kitchen gardens. * The Build: Lay down a thick layer of heavy-duty weed membrane (not the cheap thin stuff) and cover with 10cm of woodchips. * Pros: Cheap (sometimes free from local arborists), excellent drainage, looks traditional, and soft on the knees. * Cons: Needs topping up every 2 years as it rots down; can become slippery if it gets "slimy" with algae in deep shade. * Scottish Tip: Use bark nuggets rather than fine mulch; they last longer in high rainfall. 2. Gravel or "Shingle" (The "Clean" Choice) * The Build: Use a weed membrane topped with 5–8cm of gravel. Use a 20mm stone rather than 10mm (the smaller ones get stuck in boot treads and end up in your kitchen!). * Pros: Drains instantly, looks very neat, and the "crunch" warns you of approaching pests (or neighbors!). * Cons: Hard to push a wheelbarrow over; can "migrate" into your lawn if you don't have a solid edging. * Scottish Tip: Look for "Scottish Pebbles" or "River Shingle"—the rounded edges make it easier to walk on than crushed granite. 3. Paving Slabs or Flagstones (The "Permanent" Choice) * The Build: Bed them on a layer of sand or fine grit. * Pros: Zero maintenance, easy to wheelbarrow over, and you can walk on them in your slippers to grab herbs without getting wet feet. * Cons: Most expensive; hard work to install; can be slippery when icy or covered in frost. * Scottish Tip: Ensure you buy textured or "riven" slabs. Smooth sandstone looks beautiful but becomes a literal ice rink in a Scottish winter. 4. Grass (The "Budget" Choice) * Pros: Free. * Cons: High maintenance. * Why it usually fails in Scotland: In a narrow gap (60cm), a lawnmower is hard to maneuver. More importantly, the high "foot traffic" in a small area combined with Scottish rain will turn the grass into a mud bath by November. I generally recommend avoiding grass paths between raised beds. Comparison Table for Paths Material Cost Durability Wheelbarrow Friendly? Woodchips Low 2–3 Years Yes (if packed down) Gravel Medium 10+ Years No (it sinks) Paving High Lifetime Yes (the best) Grass Zero Variable No (too muddy) Design Tip: The "Mower Width" Rule If you do decide to keep grass around your beds, make sure the paths are wider than your lawnmower. There is nothing more frustrating than having a 40cm path and a 45cm mower! For a comfortable walking and working space, 60cm to 90cm is the "sweet spot." Maintence In a Scottish raised bed, your approach to maintenance needs to account for two main things: high rainfall (which leaches nutrients out of the soil) and high humidity (which slugs absolutely love). 1. Watering: The "Scottish Paradox" It rains a lot in Scotland, but raised beds drain so efficiently that they can actually suffer from drought during a dry spell in May or June. When to Water: Early morning is best. Avoid late evening watering in a humid Scottish summer, as damp leaves sitting overnight can encourage "Potato Blight" or "Downy Mildew." The Finger Test: Don't trust the surface. Stick your finger 2 inches into the soil. If it's dry at that depth, it’s time to water. Rainwater is King: Use a water butt. Scottish tap water is fine, but rainwater is slightly acidic and contains no chlorine, which is better for the soil biology in your bed. Target the Roots: Always water the soil at the base of the plant, not the leaves. 2. Feeding: Replacing Leached Nutrients Because raised beds are "high-drainage," the rain washes away nitrogen faster than in the open ground. You need to replenish this. The "Slow Release" (Early Spring): Scatter Chicken Manure Pellets or Blood, Fish, and Bone over the surface in March/April. These break down slowly over several months. The "Quick Boost" (Growing Season): For "hungry" plants like tomatoes, courgettes, or kale, use a Liquid Seaweed Feed every 2 weeks. Scottish Tip: Seaweed is an incredible "tonic" that helps plants withstand the stress of cold snaps and high winds. Carrot Caution: Avoid high-nitrogen feeds (like manure) for carrots; it makes them grow "hairy" and split. They prefer the poorer soil left over from a previous crop. 3. Pest Control: The "Scottish Big Three" In Scotland, you aren't fighting locusts; you're fighting the damp-loving locals. Slugs & Snails This is your primary enemy. Raised beds provide a "high-rise" home for them. Barriers: Copper tape around the wooden rim of the bed works well. Alternatively, a 2-inch border of crushed eggshells or sharp horticultural grit around the base of vulnerable seedlings acts like "broken glass" to a slug. Beer Traps: Sink a small yogurt pot of cheap lager into the soil. Slugs are attracted to the yeast, fall in, and drown. Nematodes: This is a biological control you water into the soil in spring. It's highly effective in the damp Scottish climate as the microscopic worms need moist soil to travel and hunt slugs. Carrot Root Fly A tiny fly that lays eggs near carrots; the larvae then tunnel into your veg. The Height Advantage: The fly usually only travels about 60cm above the ground. If your raised bed is tall, you are already winning! Barrier: Use a fine Enviromesh or old net curtains over the top of the bed from May to August. Cabbage White Butterflies They love the cool, damp summers of the East and West coasts. The Netting Rule: If you grow Kale, Cabbage, or Broccoli, you must net them with "Butterfly Mesh" (small holes). If you see a white butterfly in your garden, it is already too late; your plants will be covered in caterpillars within a week. Scottish Raised Bed Sowing Calendar Because the Scottish spring starts roughly 3–4 weeks later than in the South of England, this calendar focuses on soil temperature and daylight. In a raised bed, you can usually start 2 weeks earlier than the open ground because the soil drains and warms up faster. The Scottish Raised Bed Sowing Calendar March: The "Under Cover" Month The soil is still too cold for seeds, but the light is returning. In Pots (Indoors/Windowsill): Start Tomatoes (for greenhouses) and Leeks (Musselburgh). Direct in Bed (under fleece/cloche): Sow Broad Beans and Early Peas. Action: Cover your raised beds with clear plastic or a cloche now to "pre-warm" the soil for April. April: The Real Start Wait for the daffodils to be in full bloom—that’s the signal that the soil is waking up. Direct in Bed: Carrots (early varieties), Parsnips, Radishes, and Spinach. Planting out: Onion sets and Shallots. Potatoes: Plant your "First Earlies" (like Pentland Javelin) towards the end of the month. May: The Great Sowing The risk of hard frost is receding, though "The Beltane Frosts" can still happen. Direct in Bed: Beetroot (Boltardy), Maincrop Carrots, Chard, and Lettuce. Planting out: If you started Kale or Cabbage indoors, move them to the beds now. Action: Be ready with horticultural fleece to cover tender shoots if a late frost is forecast. June: The "Long Days" Sowing With nearly 18–20 hours of light in the North, plants grow at a frantic pace. Direct in Bed: Runner Beans and French Beans (wait until mid-June to be safe from frost). Succession Sowing: Sow more Salad leaves and Radishes every 2 weeks to ensure a continuous harvest. Action: Watch for Carrot Root Fly. Use a fine mesh (Enviromesh) over your carrot beds. July & August: Harvesting & Prep Harvest: Enjoy your early potatoes, peas, and salads. Direct in Bed (for Winter): Sow Spring Onions and Winter Spinach. You can also sow Green Manure (like Clover or Mustard) in any empty spaces to protect the soil over winter. September & October: The Overwinterers Direct in Bed: Plant Garlic bulbs and Autumn Onion sets. Sow: Broad Beans (Aquadulce Claudia) to sit through the winter for an extra-early crop next year. Action: Clear away finished plants. Add a 5cm layer of well-rotted manure or compost to the top of the bed to let the worms "dig it in" over the winter. 3 Golden Rules for the Scottish Climate Don't Rush in March: Sowing into cold, grey, sodden soil usually results in the seeds rotting. Waiting two weeks for a warmer spell in April often results in bigger, healthier plants. The "Hand Test": If you can’t comfortably keep your bare hand on the soil for a minute, it’s too cold for seeds. Fleece is Your Best Friend: In Scotland, horticultural fleece isn't just for frost; it acts as a windbreak. Cold winds can "sandblast" young seedlings and stunt their growth. Q&A: Finishing Touches Q: My raised bed soil has sunk after the first year. What do I do? A: This is normal! Every autumn or early spring, simply "top up" the bed with a mix of garden compost and well-rotted manure. You don't need to dig it in; just spread it on top. Q: Can I use seaweed as a fertiliser? A: Yes! If you live near the coast, washed seaweed is a fantastic, traditional Scottish mulch for raised beds (especially for potatoes). Just make sure it’s not from a polluted area and give it a quick rinse if it's very salty. Q&A: Scottish Growing Q: When should I start sowing? A: In the South of England, people start in March. In Scotland, it is often better to wait until mid-April for outdoor sowing. If the soil is too cold, the seeds will just rot in the bed. Q: Do I need to worry about "Clubroot"? A: This is a common soil disease in Scotland that affects brassicas (cabbage, kale). If your garden has it, use Raised Beds with fresh, store-bought topsoil—this completely bypasses the infected ground soil. Q: Can I grow Tomatoes in a Scottish raised bed? A: Outdoors? It’s a gamble. If you have a south-facing wall, try the variety "Latah" (very fast) or "Red Alert." Otherwise, keep them for a greenhouse. Q&A: Common Concerns Q: Will the rotting logs "steal" nitrogen from my plants? A: Only at the point of contact. As long as you have at least 20cm of good soil on top, your plants' roots will get all the nitrogen they need before they ever reach the wood. By the time they do reach it, the wood is usually breaking down and releasing nutrients. Q: Can I use "New" wood like fresh pine clippings? A: Fresh evergreen (conifer/pine) can be very acidic. In Scotland, where soil is often already slightly acidic, it's better to use "brown" (dead/dried) wood or deciduous branches (Oak, Birch, Hazel) if possible. Q: Do I need to treat the wood myself? A: If you buy "tanalised" or pressure-treated wood, you don't need to. However, painting the exterior with a bird-safe wood preserver can add extra years of life. Q: Will the soil freeze faster in a raised bed? A: Yes, because the sides are exposed. For winter crops like Kale or Leeks, you can wrap the outside of the bed in bubble wrap or burlap if a severe "Beast from the East" frost is forecast. Q: Where is the best place to put it? A: In Scotland, light is precious. Place it in the sunniest spot possible, away from overhanging trees, and try to orient the long side facing South to catch the maximum "low" winter sun. Q&A: Troubleshooting Q: My lettuce has "grey fuzz" on it. What is that? A: That's Botrytis (Grey Mould), caused by poor airflow and dampness. In Scotland, don't plant your veg too close together. Give them "elbow room" so the wind can dry the leaves after a rain shower. Q: Can I use "Slug Pellets"? A: Try to avoid them, especially the blue ones (Metaldehyde), as they harm the birds and hedgehogs that eat the slugs. If you must use them, look for "Ferric Phosphate" pellets, which are certified for organic gardening and safer for wildlife. Q: Do I need to feed my soil in the winter? A: No. Just cover the bed with a layer of compost or well-rotted manure in November and leave it. The Scottish winter rain will wash the nutrients down into the soil, ready for your spring planting. Final Q&A Q: How do I stop weeds growing in the path? A: Always use a weed suppressant membrane underneath gravel or woodchips. Do not use cardboard here (like you did inside the bed), as it will rot too quickly and the weeds will come through within months. Q: Which material is best for "slug control"? A: Gravel is the winner here. Slugs and snails find the sharp, dry edges of gravel uncomfortable to cross, whereas damp woodchips are like a "luxury highway" for them. All reactions: 15 Derek Wood "Medium (30–45cm): * Best for: Carrots, onions, beetroot, garlic, and leeks. * Scottish Tip: This depth is ideal for carrots, as it raises them above the "flight path" of the carrot root fly (which usually flies low to the ground). " Didn't work… See more 2d Sophie Rogers We've just received some whisky barrels... are they any good for a raised bed of this type? The plants might get a bit drunk though, there are a lot of fumes! 19m Log in or sign up for Facebook to connect with friends, family and people you know. or

Premixed lime putty.

The "render onto foam insulation that is screwed to the wall" method has some risks. In theory a well done ewi solution should protect the building from thr elements and preserve the wall by keeping it warmer and drier. The aesthetic will almost certainly change if you start with brick or stone. There ain't really a way to mimic that - and I'm not sure we should try. Lean into the fact our buikdings are changing to adapt to new circumstances. It has always been so. Structures are extended, modified, uses change, windows are added and subtracted, uses change again etc. Many of our houses were never built with electrical wiring or central heating. A good few didn't have plumbing and some didn't even have indoor toilets. These new technologies were added as circumstance changed. The addition of ewi is just another chapter.

Interesting. This is the sort of thing that should happen. (the grant not the historical standing charges being higher)

Exactly, which makes a mockery of the whole idea of g100 certification. Maybe someone could bring out some sort of 2way breaker - 80/100a incoming (as per normal) but 16a outgoing (or whatever the dno says the limit is) that would provide an extra layer of protection.

Looks like they have a showroom in Stockton on Tees (wouldn’t have helped us, way too far oop north).

As mentioned previously I assist Clients in making Claims from time to time. You have to be professional at all times. You do your investigation, record the findings and offer an evidenced based inpartial opinion. Impartiality is the key.. as if it ever goes to court (you hope to avoid this) you have to defend your engineering / design judgement and impartiality. If you can't do that then you have let your Client down. Often my intitial report is written in lay terms as it's for the Client who is often is not familiar with the construction industry. I actually state this in the introduction. This has a number of benefits. One is that it lets the initial claims handler realise that it's serious and needs to be passed up the chain of command. Then they may get more of their own professionals involved and the conversation becomes more technical. Naming and shaming is not something I get involved in, however a Client can chose to wield that stick if they choose to do so. I can recommend of course, that if there is a structural safety issue that is not getting address timely then I may have no recourse as an Engineer (who has a duty to public safety) to get in touch with the HSE, Professional bodies, Trading Standards and so on. Well they would sue someone like me, even if to make an example to deter others. That is why you have to be impartial, stick to the evidence and be able to back up what you are saying with technical arguement. Some claims are not cut and dry.. there is fault on the construction / design side but also at times the home owner has done something a bit daft or has excessive demands. That moves the goal posts. Here we need to seek a compromise. Most times it's quitely settled, the home owner needs to sign an NDA and we all go home.

Hi iam hoping to fit french doors into a new build extension, the wall is concrete block with cavity and pir insulstion. Is the positioning of the door within the wall the same as with windows? Ie mostly inline with the insulation. Are the doors then fixed in place with tie straps? I have found a second hand door which is the right colour etc but is about 200mm narrower in width, and iam wondering the best way to make good on the exterior. If the door is positioned inline with the insulation should i place compqfoam in the cavity for a base. Hope this makes sense, a few photos of the doorway at present. Thanks carl

If a DNO does limit the inverter size then effectively they're saying they dont trust the ENA standards and/or the G100 certification/self certification process

I've got Lusso stuff in my own house. Wife went to town and got all the "extras" but they do look good. A few of my Architect pals are installing / specing it for their own kids houses also. For a while they did not have a show room, don't know if they have one now. Can't comment on the back up service as nothing has gone wrong with their product to date!

Sure. I made a general statement, doesn't mean there aren't exceptions. Most people don't have 7p rates at night, bigger batteries in cars is increasingly common now the price of the batteries has plummeted, charging during the day on some tarriffs can be more than 30p/kwh. I admit that £30 is probably high but £20 is very much realistic for a charge from 20% for someone with a 80kwh vehicle.