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Brilliant. Thank you. I have googled and googled fan coils, fan convectors, hydronic terminals, heat pump convectors, and many other combinations and not seen them. I've had a look at their website, and it appears exactly what we need. I’ve had the same conversation repeatedly, and been met with confusion when I’ve tried to explain what we are trying to do. These guys appear to have already got it. @nikotime who are you getting a quote from?

If you think Welsh Nick is going to replace me as tea boy and cleaner you’ve got another thing coming. I’ve got a talent and I’m going to use it! One lump or two?

That's no way to talk about @Nickfromwales

I know who is to blame. Little, round, bald guy with a dodgy sense of humour. He got lumbered with the labels of Principal Designer and Principal Contractor but his real talent was as Head of Global Operations for On Site Catering and Sweeping. Humph. One tries….

Jaga Briza do ceiling mounted fan coils. Currently getting a quote for my build.

If your adding airtightness think about a ventilation strategy now. That's fixed with ventilation. You need a flow path from dry room to wet rooms. I would do Greenwood CV2 or CV3 dMEV fans in all wet rooms and humidity controlled trickle vents in dry rooms only and undercut the internal doors for a ventilation path. Least amount of ventilation, but ventilation when you need it, and where you need it. Then make the rest of the building as airtight as you want and know it's ventilation is taken care off and all ventilation is controlled not uncontrolled.

Doing up a 1925 end terraced house. Brick dual block with cavity. External wall covered with pebble dash render. It’s had no heating in for two years. Not a cold or damp house and is well ventilated. Ceiling/floor timbers in good nick. Only point of rot on a couple of timbers including wood lintel on external (non adjoining wall). We’ve batoned over the old plaster/lathe walls with 25mm batons to be lined with a mix of standard and soundbloc plasterboard. For the outer walls we have conflicting advice: - As it’s a ‘dry’ and not damp house, and there’s render on external wall faces, we don’t need insulation behind the batons. Don’t need to worry about condensation as dew point will remain in the well ventilated cavity. - Rockwool or similar behind the batons. Provides a some extra warmth. It’s breathable and permeable so condensation shouldn’t be a problem and will be in the cavity wall anyway. - Rockwool with something like intello plus behind plasterboard. Expensive option for a 1920s house but negates and concerns of dew points ingressing closer to inner wall. I’m aware of overkill and don’t want to be living in a sweat box or feel like we’ve created a home in a polythene bag! We’re after some middle ground. The internal walls are much easier. Would appreciate any words of wisdom or advice as we havent dry lined outer walls before.

Respectfully, you need to include a contingent, when planning a home for life. Filed under “shit keeps happening”. Explore early, discuss in advance, resolve, progress. Zero reason to fail if you prepare afaic.

It was, and I identified the unit I intended to buy. Just not available. Sigh. I’ll get there.

This unit would need to be able to run independently, so plan the controls well, and manage your expectations of efficiency and ‘short-cycling’ even better. These things should have been ‘on the M&E menu’ at day dot tbh.

Now you need the will to live these days. I don't do this regularly (primarily as an SE) but for one reason or another I end up representing Clients that are making a claim on their warranty. I've done this for the last 15 years or so. I spent some 20 years as a building Contractor before that, cutting my teeth and learning how devious folk can be at times. In some ways I'm a poacher come game keeper. It's not part of my core business, I do it as it's good for my soul and I don't like to see domestic Clients getting taken advantage of. That said, over the last 15 years I've recovered on behalf of Clients a few million quid. The amount of money is less important, for me it's about justice and holding folk to account. What I've noticed in the last few years is that some of the warranty providers are more and more sub contracting out to Claims handling services. 25 years ago lots of the warranty providers withdrew from the market. At one point there was the NHBC and Zurich pretty much. Now we have lots of new entrants.. and it seems to me that there is a bit of a race to the bottom. The terms and conditions are a bit of a minefield for the unwary. There is a common case where they initially come over all friendly but then tell the Client they need to employ an SE like me at their own expense to provide a report. This happens even if the Client has provided photographs that clearly show there is a problem. It has come to my attention that they (Claims handling services) are ramping up the; deny, defend and delay tactics.. always been the case but recently I've noticed that they are cherry picking part of my SE reports and trying to fob the Client off. Even to the extent that they will quote part of a paragraph of my report.. which totally changes the context. Often young folk just can't afford this so they throw in the towel. It's a disgrace. Now this may be a genuine lack of understanding .. or a deliberate intent to defraud the Client. I'm happy for them to dig themselves a hole as often when doing a warranty Claim I'll turn it into an HSE (safety) issue. This makes folk personally liable and risks the HSE getting involved.. a big black mark if you are a warranty provider. My question is. Are folk finding Claims handling services helpful or not when you think you have a case for making a Claim.

Whoever told you that had more than 2 legs lol.

Now is the time to really look after the materials you are using to build. In this weather if you press ahead you may be making a rod for your own back later.

All good points. Burying any gas pipe in an inaccessible position is fraught with danger. Track pipe is a welcome solution, but we cannot possibly see the multiples of facets the OP needs to consider.

All good points. Burying any gas pipe in an inaccessible position is fraught with danger. You need to consult a Gas Engineer. Now with much more air tight houses and the potential for negative air pressure we need to be extra careful.

Sorry to be blunt, but unless anyone replying here holds a current GSR'tion, then you CANNOT use any information given. LPG is a very different beast to NG, totally different playing field. It's gas, it causes death, so needs to be looked at specifically, in isolation; airtightness / adventitious airflow + MVHR needs adding to the question, and more, so PLEASE stop asking questions here and go get a GSR'd installer to visit site and quote current regulations / legislations etc. Yes, I'm hot, it's been a long day, but SERIOUSLY!?????

And over-opinionated Welsh folk Anything is possible, you just need money, imagination, and good people to support and execute the work. The garage is referred to as being 'outside the heated envelope' of the main (habitable) dwelling, AKA a "cold" space. To move the WC out there requires you building a wall at the end of the garage to create a new 'partition'; this would require a full building regs application with a proposal from a general builder, for comment. The garage floor should be stepped down 100mm or so from the residential dwelling, so that would need insulation over, to bring it to an acceptable standard, plus insulation to the ceiling and any external wall you then create (a new wall inside the garage would be considered an 'outside wall' as it abuts the remaining 'cold' area of the garage. I've done plenty of these jobs over the years, and it is very simple tbh. So....to answer your question...."YES!".

As you say it kind of looks like the house has been previously altered. Would need more info to comment further as an SE / try and put a ball park cost on this.

To add a bit to this. it's not just your confidence it's mine also. I need to be confident we have a good, buildable and well thought out design. If not things will go wrong on site, or later latent defects will materialise in the design and that reflects badly on my business.

There are so many different options with this stuff. Much depends on how you want to set up the design from the ground up. For self building I would advocate; identifying your skills and the time you have to learn, cost curve/ cash flow and programme. Also the time you have to do things yourself and if you don't mind "just giving some stuff a go". For me as a designer I love seeing the ideas folk have on BH and many bring specialist knowledge (or just whacky ideas) that they have gained elsewhere to the table. This makes my job great fun as a designer.. working out how you realise folks ideas, turn them into something buildable that won't fall down. But at least you have identified what you may prefer not to do! Nothing lost then as good design is just as much about ruling options out than in. Here we can split hairs.. for a bit of fun, it's really a subjective argument. You can't have a thin slab and less rebar, the two just don't go together. At the extreme you have either one or the other structurally. Putting the UFH in the structural slab can avoid the need for a screed. Later installing the screed requires more wagon journeys and so on. At the end of the day you may want a 65mm average depth screed, which is non structural. But if I make the structural slab 30 - 50mm thicker it goes a long way towards the carbon neutral equation. That said, I often say good design is holistic. If you are proposing large format ceramic tiles on the structural slab then I think the screed option is better as it gives you a better chance of sorting door thresholds for example and avoids the use of self levelling compounds and the frustration that comes with that. In my latest own house I have the UFH in the structural slab. But I have engineered timber floors which are much more forgiving if the levels are a bit off. There is a rough rule of thumb that the "basic structure" comprises 10 - 15% of the over all cost of the project. But what is essential is that the basic structure is set up in such a way so as to avoid later and costly build problems. For example fit up, material tolerances and so on. This is why it so important to design holistically. To do this is not as hard as later trying to sort out problems later in the build. The real up side is that you get to do stuff on paper before spending any real money. Your confidence builds before you start work on site.

The number of similar-looking HMO and student bathrooms I've seen over the years, leaking showers and baths into rooms adjacent or underneath, and 1.5 tubes of clear CT1 later, problem solved (for 10 years). Preparation is EVERYTHING, as if what you need to stick, can't stick, then............................it won't stick. Use CT1 MultiSolve spray for prep and decontamination, and then you'll enjoy a non-leaky vessel in an afternoon.

That's so helpful. I was imagining sections lapping or butting together in a single plane. But with these defined angles could you leave the mastic in place and lay a large bead over? I leave proper experts on this to say yea, no, or maybe.

Give it a go, even if to rule out. Occam's Razor principle and so on. Incidentally I was chatting to one of the go to folk up my neck of the woods and I was looking at some of their new Aluminium products in their show room and having a technical chat. The are accredited installers, Origin, Sunflex and so on, they do some really high end products and installs. Anyway we got chatting about Build Hub and I mentioned your doors were dropping and the masking tape idea given that your doors were dropping 10mm or so. I got the nod that it's worth a try as your are not paying for the time and it's just the cost of a roll of masking tape.

Agreed, but a bath that's not meant to be stood in moves and flexes a LOT, which causes seals / silicones / grouts to perish and the same issues to repeat themselves. Most baths I fit with shower 'over' them are Trojan Cast. Bombproof. Even if only occasional use as a shower bath, it'll still need to not budge. I always fit a batten along the wall, 2mm shy of where the underside of the bath will be, and set the bath into a fat bead of CT1, and use the same to bond the back edge of the bath to a tanked or primered wall, before sealing again, and then tiling.

Aye But its used daily for disabled son, he likes a soak. And very occasionally for his support workers who have the odd shower. Ergo the shower curtain can be out of matey boys way. Its 90% for him 10% for staff team, how it looks is secondary to function.