All Activity

One very important bit of data...what was/is the boiler output % with the above 54C/45C?? My calcs show 38%, 13.6kW (based on the above) and a very healthy flowrate of 21.6LPM/1299LPH. 54C/45C/dT9C. 21.6LPM/1299LPH. (See below) On Monday you might ask this senior engineer to monitor the flowtemperature with a independent sensor attached as close to the actual sensor as possible and compare them

@SimonD replying to an earlier suggestion of yours of running the boiler at a much lower target temp an seeing if the delta between the boiler and flow pipe is consistent vs running it at higher. Im going to try that tomorrow. But something I forgot to mention is... when the boiler has been off for a while, all 3 displays are pretty close. (boiler,flow,return). As in the photo below. But when the CH is demanded, the boiler one rockets up to a delta of 20-25 between that and flow within a couple mins, then maintains that delta thereafter pretty much.

It's max isn't rated down at all currently. It's something im going to give a try to tomorrow to see if that enhances heat up times and stops the kettling. Do you think range rating to 70% would be a good starting point? I think i've mentioned already but when I add up the KW of the rads we have here, its there abouts 27kw. (11x large double panel) + (4 x large vertical triple column)

Thanks again. Good point about PI - though I fear scaring him away ! One final question - If I retain the structure of the sunroom as-is (constructed in 1970s) and essentially treat extension as a separate room and only two new walls to build and add a roof. Devil in details but theoretically does it reduce cost/risk ? Cheers.

They did acknowledge a huge DT between boiler and flow pipe. But tried to tell me that it's normal. Which sounded like BS. Also tried to say it was 100% likely a system issue. Which sounded like I was being palmed off. The boiler is wired up to Hive, and for all these tests ive been running it on boost mode. I dont think that makes any diff to running it normally tbh, but just for clarity.

Ish, it's set to min 80% max 100% on the pump. Though tbh this didn't make a huge amount of difference compared to running it at constant pressure.

If the boiler is set to 68'c target temp, it settles at around 70'c after an hour. At this time, the flow pipe will max out around 54'c and the return 45'c, I appreciate that delta between flow/return is too small for a modern boiler. it does maintain 20'c delta for the most part but really closes down after the boilers been on for a while.

I see an issue, it gets to 70'c on the boiler within 10mins. then modulates down, long before the radiators get hot.

I've WB coming back on Monday, with a new control board. Will show them the issues. I would've liked to go down the sub floor myself between now and then and have a look at where the single 28mm flow and returns each split into dual 22mm ones. If those splitters have valves on em, im wondering if they've been left partially closed. I've mentioned already... but last WB guy, as I stated above very much did try to wash his hands of it and said its normal to have a difference between boiler target temp and flow pipe temp. I challenged that. He didn't really have a good come back. And just said we should raise our boiler target temp to 80. Which has brought the new kettling symptom in now. This is why I've asked for a more senior gentleman to come, this time.

Well beyond that getting upto passive house standards

Hi, The cement board idea could actually be a good one as it is A1 fire rated therefore non-combustible. Firegaurd fire suppression coating would not need to be used on the wooden frame or trusses. The total cost of the cement board is almost the same as Firegaurd coating. If I use the cement board to completely line the internal walls and ceiling of the garage. This would create a box of 6mm cement board that would protect the wooden frame and roof trusses from an internal fire and ensure it’s stability in the event of a fire as well as transfer of fire from the inside of my garage to another. It would also not require an unprotected area calculation as part of the design plan submission. if the metal exterior cladding is A1 rated this also will be enough to pass regs. Anything less that this rating will require unprotected area calculations. I’m waiting on the manufacturer of the proposed metal cladding confirming its fire rating specifications. The double skin could also open up the possibility of non flammable insulation between the layers in the gaps in the stud partition walls and above the ceiling making the garage far more usable in the winter.

Depending on the reason you're getting a warranty it might be worth looking at ones that are widely accepted by the major lenders. For our build I made sure that I got one which was widely accepted so I'd have no problems getting a mortgage (or if we needed to sell, the person who we were buying from wouldn't either). Lenders' Handbook - UK Finance Mortgage Lenders' Handbook https://share.google/jARd4XhwAN9ElprPc

Thanks for replys

It went very successfully for me with a 250mm raft foundation onto 200mm Greenraft XPS insulation. Quite a lot of excavation (750mm O/A) and then compacted Type 1 hardcore. Came in about £40k so below my budget which is almost a first! Certainly a vast improvement on the deep piling that everyone seemed to advise was inevitable.

Do they mean Building Regulation limits, which are pretty poor.

Unfortunately NIE require meter boxes to be outside on side of house or dedicated and approved box

Something like the above would do the trick but if you have a free standing structure like we have - you may wish to consider housing in there. Ours is in the corner of an open fronted Oak Framed structure. see image.

The cables have a DC rating because you can stick DC down any conductor. But the UK regs say that cables that carry DC must meet certain requirements around insulation etc. Specifically the conductors need to be double insulated whilst they can be single insulated for AC. Here is an armoured AC cable. Notice you have: Copper conductors Layer of insulation (the coloured bit) Packing material (beige bit) Armour Outer sheath. Here is an armoured DC cable Copper conductors Layer of insulation (white) Layer of insulation (the red/white bit) Packing material (beige bit) Armour Outer sheath. Notice the two layers of insulation around each conductor You could use the top cable, it would physically work, in the same way you could just bury an extension flex in your garden to power your garage. But it wouldn't meet the regulations. For that you need the specialist cable.

Yeah that’s right. The top guides on my unit can be moved slightly by hand so no load there at all. I was originally told that the bottom track supported units were more robust and also didn’t require any special lintel loading calculations so went with that

I have a warranty from CMLC, was lower cost than most alternatives (think @nod has the same). Can’t vouch for it because I haven’t claimed and until then, who knows if it’s any use!

No, you don’t need to build a structure, just a weather proof kiosk/cabinet to your DNO requirements https://exelgrp.ltd/product/model-d2/

Yes and you can not even phone anyone for advice nowadays or request a site visit to discuss anything

I don't have any answers, but do bear in mind that NIE can be a bit different to all the GB providers so...

I assume you mean 'remove the need for conventional deep strip foundations...'. Even with steels you still need foundations - just fewer of them, insofar as you only need a footing where a post hits the ground (probably - ish). - Installation of new structural beam supports with associated foundations as required There are, at very least, 2 bits you need the SE for, I'd say: 1. To tell you how you make the pool 'stand up' while you almost undermine it with your footings and 2. To tell you what you need to make your extension stand up. Oh, and 3. You need his/her PI insurance....

Thanks for the feedback. I will do a flush through out and have some x100 inhibitor on the way to add and will get some biocide to add as well. I have an bench top ultrasonic cleaner and will try to get the sensor extra clean using that.