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Brown envelope city.

Yes, but the fleas come with the dog, lol.

I have a suspended wood floor on ground floor - 1980's house It is insulated now but UFH was never an option so rads was the choice I had Low flow temps (max 35 deg C at -2.5 Deg C OAT) T22 and T33 rads - heat 24/7 and the house is really nice and comfortable all the time I think your best option is decent size rads, heat pump cylinder and a boiler that can do DHWP for fast recharge of HW cyl and WC for the CH

I went to see a friend in Essex a couple of weekend back - passed a new development just outside a village - all 4/5 bed detached houses - all the houses had different aspects north, south, east and west facing - normal for a small dense estate except all the PV was on the front facing roofs so some of the north facing houses it was pretty much window dressing

It's been an interesting detour. But back to the early responses. My hunch is still that 3 phase would be the less complex "go to", rather than very clever, but complex, inverters from single ph to dc then to 3 ph which must carry some cost and increased fault risk.

You may be ok, just giving a precaution.

@BenB all the above is right and sensible. If you have gas, stick with gas. Ufh on an uninsulated floor is throwing heat away. Modern rads will be much better than what you are taking out.

Adding more images

So we have bought a new house which is 100 years old and we have a plasterer booked for the 2 March to skim and plaster the old walls. I’ve been prepping by removing old plaster and discovered what I consider to be a bodged upvc window installl in the top floor. they have used MDF liner's to fix the UPVC to and the gap between the liner and brick is 2.5 odd cm filled with expanding foam. the external sill sits on another old wooden sill too. what do I need to do to correct this ? Should I pull the window and use 18mm ply liners ?

It looks as if we have a club of three at present, and some others dithering or not committing.

Noted. The gurgle we experience currently with our existing set up in the kitchen which is using the same paperwork as was here before we bought the house. this is a sealed spigot under the sink attached to the sink waste and the noise comes through the strainer. i was hoping the air break in the top of these spigots would prevent that along with using a seperate standpipe. thanks for your help on this!

Yes, but you may get a gurgle from the opposite appliance when the other is discharging as these create a seal vs the open pipe I suggest.

that black connector is for the toilet waste as well. From the ground is the 110mm pipe to the sewer. The black connector is 110mm to 90mm. The geberit pipe out of the toilet is 90mm as standard. I've already had on order a reducer to 40mm, elbow and tee piece and this is being delivered on Monday, to come off from the yellow bung. if 300mm is enough then I have a dual appliance spigot already here? https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-twin-hose-connector-40mm/206hr use this instead of tbh y branch?

That's how @Pocster got parole.

Invert is around 600mm below ground level. Excavation starts this week, so we will see how things stand once our groundworks contractor gets to grip with the levels. Thanks all.

We pity the fools....... I'd not waste much more time on her tbf, and ask if she's going for diamond leadwork in the windows.

Yes, you should have TRAP Y branch (130 degree) One of these in the side of the Y branch 300mm vertical drop is plenty, as the overall drop is to the invert of the 40mm meeting the black connector. Can you not take the black connector out and put a reducer where that goes into the floor?

Thanks. i should have mentioned I need a sink waste here as well. so where the I tee'd off for the running trap, I was going to run the sink waste to there. i'll measure up where you've drawn but off the top of my head that's probably about 300mm from the appliance spigot to the p trap. would that be enough overall length of pipe?

Green line path of 40mm pipe. red line possibly a running trap. blue lines the drain hose from WM & TD. everything unfortunately a lot tighter then I'd hope for due to the change from stacking to side by side.

Can we have even a crap drawing of what you propose please? 2 beers in atm, which is good for me, and I'm still lost.

While I agree that it is cheap, it has for the last 40 years or so been about 5% of household income, which is where it is at the moment. Back in 1990, I was paying 10p/kWh for electricity. So only doubled in last 35 years. My wage has gone up more.

Nope, it would just throw the breaker that the manufacturer installed to stop you from doing that. Then you reset stuff, after turning off the George Foreman Soufflé maker.

Originally intended to stack washing machine and dryer so had plenty of on wall to tee off to sink and a standpipe for WM & TD. This would have allowed a 700-800mm pipe including trap. However now the time has come to install, decision has been made to fit the appliances side by side. This has reduced the available space and now a seperate standpipe cannot be fitted. I've read the reason standpipe are around 700-800mm, is due to discharge rate and allow drainage should the rate be slowed down for whatever reason. If this is the case would it be ok to get that overall length of pipe, however have it at a 90° bend? Maybe use a swept bend rather then a tight 90°?