All Activity

China too - in the second quarter of 2026, EVs are up by 1/3, EV charging is up by 60%, and oil consumption is down by 9% (year-on-year). At the end of 2025 54% of their new passenger cars were EVs or hybrids; by 2030 that should reach 70%, with new electric commercial vehicles expected to be at 40%.

Perhaps cut a proper tilting fillet and mount the gutter to that where it overlaps the vertical battens?

Maybe go back and read my post on the previous page. Most of this ^^^^ is just another one of your rants and is not relevant to what i said.

Evening all, I would be grateful for a bit of help if anyone has any knowledge in this area! The structural engineer has specified a 12mm plywood skin on our single storey rear extension with mono-pitch roof. I'm planning to use BMI Redland Mini-mockbond tiles, as they're closest to the tiles on the main house and can handle the low pitch (17.5°). I'm at the point of building up the facia / soffit, but with the vertical battens necessary over the ply skin, I'm struggling to visualise the facia / guttering arrangement. My CAD mockup shows the water is going to overshoot the gutter, but if I use a taller facia board I'll be blocking the breathable membrane, which needs to sit either on top of the ply or on top of the vertical battens (it will probably be Tyvek Supro if BC are happy with it, as the data sheet shows it's used for this sort of build up). Any of you knowledgeable folk know what to do here?

Again, not so pessimistic. CO2 emissions are still growing but by ever smaller amounts. 2025 was only 0.8% higher than 2024. 2024 was 1% huger than 2023. Between 2019 and 2024 emissions gre from 33.5Gt to 34.9Gt - about 3.8% But they would have grown by over 11.5% if solar, wind, a tiny bit of nuclear plus electric car adoption hadn't curbed 2/3 of the growth. Almost all of the growth in electricity generation worldwide in 2025 came from renewables. 2026 is likely to be a big year for emissions reduction and renewable adoption. We will probably see emissions start to fall worldwide by the end of this decade. Which was unthinkable a decade or two ago. But all of this is focussing on emissions, carbon etc The whole point of this thread is that *even if you don't believe in any of that* we still should pursue policies like electrification of heating and transport plus a massive increase in domestically produced energy simply for national security and economic reasons. And the *only* way to increase domestic energy production is via renewables and nuclear.

Indeed, but on this id want to put some kiln dried sand or similar on it too whilst sticky to prevent UV degradation. (whatever the manufacturers say about it)

As above. Make sure its as airtight as possible, and get a dessicant dehumidifier. Problem solved, though with some running costs. Insulating will help a lot, but thats not going to be so easy. You absolutely do not want more ventilation. If its 95% RH outside, it will be 95% inside. If its ventilated you cannot possibly get any other outcome. Steel wont rust below 65%, and nor will mould grow on wood at that either. I keep my workshop at 50%. Nothing degrades in any way. It does, however form part of my largest expense, electricity. But its a big workshop.

Globally no, we are not "ahead". The UK being miles ahead wont stop anything. My point was globally. Not UK.

https://ember-energy.org/latest-insights/the-solarisation-of-pakistans-energy-economy/ Estimated USD12bn saving in imported fossil fuels due to huge solar uptake Saw an estimate that they had imported 13GW of solar panels in 2025 alone - against a backdrop of 45GW total grid capacity. Ethiopia has gone big on electric vehicles because the cost of oil (in USD) was dragging the economy. One interesting nugget mentioned was that with solar becoming the cheapest power - places where solar panels work well eg near the equator are poised to have a huge advantage of their northern competitors in the coming years

It's when the laser interferometer comes out you really have to worry. Microns? Pah! we want nanometers here! Remember seeing someone proudly show off 4 or 5ft Mitutoyo calipers he got from somewhere 'Not sure I know what I'll use them for but I couldn't pass up them for the price - they are worth 5 figures!'

If you are considering background heat, think differently. You can get the same heat output from a dehumidifier of the same wattage and then you effectively get dehumidification for free. (They aren't designed as heaters but the electricity used ends up as heat). Dehumidifier will have a fan to keep the air circulating inside the room and will reduce the need for active ventilation to the outside (less air changes reduces the amount of work it will have to do). It's not an air sealed space so the dehumidifier will likely work hard which is a consideration and they are more expensive than a small bar heater but I'd guess they are going to be much more effective even if not perfect.

Insulate, that helps mitigate temp swings, which helps stop water condensing on thing in your garage. That will never help the situation Get an insulated one, or just add 25mm PIR to your existing door.

And a second, more accurate one to check that one has remained “within acceptable tolerance”. 🫣🤣

Correction, I should have said, actual humidity (g/m3 ) will go up and down, not relative humidity (%)

But wear mask gloves etc to protect yourself - if it is indeed asbestos.

I don't think you need more ventilation. You mentioned that you have large temperature variations. The items in your garage are heating up and cooling down. Because of their thermal mass, if the garage is drafty, that process will lag the temperature of the air coming into your garage. The relative humidity of the air coming in, will go up and down with its temperature. After a cold night when the contents of the garage have had time to cool down, as the day warms, warm moist air getting into your garage will come into contact with items which are still colder than the air, and water will condense out on them. Reduce the temperature fluctuations by insulation and perhaps some background heat. Slow down the rate at which the garage air is replaced by trying to get your garage door less leaky. You don't need much ventilation in a garage; trickle vents etc are there because we introduce moisture into our houses by living in them.

if rads are sized correctly you can run low temps to rads as well as UFH (same temps even) then with DHWP set up can run elevated temps for hot water tank I'm running 55 deg flow temp when doing hot water tank recharge and rest of the time running WC on rads and even at OAT if -2.5 deg C the boiler flow temp doesn't go above 33 deg C house is 80's detached with CWI and SUDG windows and doors, 300mm of loft insulation and 75mm of kingspan PIR under the suspended ground floor - all I did in nearly all of the rooms was change T11 rads to T22

Be interesting to see where places like Pakistan are 1 year after the Iran stuff started. Poor countries dependent on imported energy have been going hell for leather on renewables since then as it's by far the cheapest (and decentralised) way to energy security for them.

School mums... 😉

It's most likely dampness through the floor but you've checked that....so driving through some weakness.. under the door, through the wall. The simplest answer is much more ventilation. But first walk all round it and go into it during heavy rain. You'll often find a drip or dribble.

Really depends on floor buildup and house heat losses. UFH is a low and slow heating system so you want the temperature as low as you can get away with, you want long run times. Boiler flow temp reduced as far as you can while still getting the water temp you need and the boiler doesn't cycle.

Rather than forcing people to buy BEVs, why not fine people £1000 if their cars are loud, say over 75dB. Was tailgated by a nob in a black Merc yesterday. Even though we were in a 20MPH zone, with lots of traffic, he still felt the need to declutch and redline his engine. I am currently sitting, 8n the sun, by the same stretch of road. Lots of traffic as school run is just finishing. Here is the screenshot of my decibelimeter.

Denso tape does work well on Asbestos cement sheets, brush away loose crud and rub it down well to get hold.

It might be that you "can" but do you really want to? If you sell it might put buyers off, especially if it became a long treck to the back garden. Only do it if your kitchen is small and you really really need the extra bit of wall space created by turning a door into a window.

I suspect it's the sea air? I am 3 miles from the sea and garage door faces north. My integral garage is never damp, my tools don't rust, bits of wood stored in the garage remain mould free. My classic car in there stays dry and fresh. The garage is well insulated, the wall make up is pretty much the same as the house, but I did not bother with an air tight membrane. 2G version of the same windows we have in the house (3g). A reasonable but not expensive pedestrian door and an "insulated" roller door. One difference is my garage was under the size that mandated air bricks for ventilation, so I have none. The only ventilation is the trickle vents in the windows and the leaks around the roller door, and the letter box in the pedestrian door.