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I’d just say beware anyone of anyone who is partisan because they’ve used one system. I’ve been fortunate to work with multiples, warts and all, so am giving a balanced and real life overview from hands-on experiences.

Respectfully, nobody puts a 40mm trap on a 32mm sink. Agreed, they should have just said no, but sales always starts with a “yes”, and the let down follows after a lot of laborious provocation.

Could do the sums on it....... 150l of DHW water heaters to say 50 deg is about 7kWh. 30m of 22mm looped pipe and a room temp of 20deg and a water temp of 50deg is a heat loss of 250w. Say you run it 24hrs a day and you get 6kWh. Put it on a timer or a PIR sensor and you'd probably half it. Of course you might have less flushes in the first place. Your mileage will vary. I reckon it's still nothing compared to running a 10mm pipe run radially from the UVC. Will do sums later ...

We used Philips master value throughout. Warm white.

Sure. And I’ve thought about just mixing up some PVA but I wanted to get it finished tomorrow and if I have to paint it on and let it dry then that won’t happen! I’ll sleep on it and see how I feel in the morning.

The stuff made for bonding doesn't expand much like Sudal plasterboard adhesive?

That's what I'll be doing. What's so frustrating is that it shouldn't be a big deal to tell someone they don't have it, or send it the right one. I could have adaptated and fitted this a month ago.

I used loads of this stuff during the build, and I'm going to need some again soon. Neither Screwfix nor Toolstation seem to stock it any more. Checked B&Q and no joy there either. AFAIK the stuff can't be posted (even though ordinary expanding foam can). Any suggestions for where I can get some?

Congrats! I read your blog a while back then lost track, good to see you moving forward!

Makes sense, not sure we will ever need it here in the deep south!

If you’ve any doubt, you’ve got nothing to lose by sizing the wall with a splash of sbr and water, it certainly won’t harm the job. IMO The mix of adhesive is the biggest factor.

M6 Preston area. PM me if you're passing. 2 minutes from the motorway. Ian

Haha, used siniat boards and adhesive 🤣, no problems, had a bag that was slightly out of date, that stuff went off quicker than Usain Bolt and the board didn’t hold, but that was me being a tight git, rather than the materials!

We're really fussy about lighting and are often disappointed with what options are available. For our island we wanted a visible filament, good colour rendition (>90 CRI with decent R9 performance), ideally ST64 shape (but GLS if necessary) and dim-to-warm functionality as it is in a 'family room' that really does needs different lighting at different times of day/use. A lot of boxes to tick and I found a grand total of one option and that was the Philips Master Value series: (shown here at quite a low level hence more towards the 2200K end of the range) They took a bit of effort to drive with a Varilight Pro dimmer as they take a bit of a kick to reliably turn on at very low levels but with some help from Varilight got there in the end. That's a long way of saying 'warm white' in answer to your question, although I would say accurate colour rendition is just as important in a kitchen.

Has anyone used one of the Grundfos recirc pumps with the autoadapt feature??? So it learns the house schedule and records at the tiles you’re most likely to call for hat water. Seems to be a happy compromise for generally having hot water when you want it and not circulating unnecessarily… pipes would need lagging still though.

I wasn’t referring to damp issues, just that during the construction phase there was a lot of rain that made its way indoors, or had soaked into the lower sections of the interior woodcrete leaf. Not an issue with EPS, but it’s less DIY friendly (depending on what block you go for). I'd steer well clear of Velox, had loads of blowouts with that.

Probably still less wasteful than whizzing hot water round a circulation system all day long

Interesting how that I’ve had 3 responses and there’s still no real agreement! 😂

I have used Guttercrest. Very good quality. Lindab is also good but only plated steel.

That is a lot! Double checked my contactors and they seem to be 0.8 to 1.8 W. Mine claim to be good for 100,000 to 150,000 switching cycles so until your post I wasn't too worried about that - but maybe I should be? The only snubber at the moment is for the circulation pump.

The additional heating is either a relay output to fire an immersion in the central heating system, or an additional boiler. These can be needed for extreme weather cases, where the heat pump cannot cope.

I have used this alumasc cast half round on my current project. It was easy to fit and looks great. I’ll take some photos tomorrow.

Nothing in the manual about that, manual is sparse to say the least, but it does have an output called 'additional heating'. As I mentioned above the heat pump can make water at 75oC, so it shouldn't need additional heating.

Just reduce 40>32mm at the point these two meet, and fit a smaller trap? That’s what I do, as I never run long lengths of 32mm pipe for basins any more, always 40mm and then reduce at the bend where it turns from vertical to horizontal. I use a 40mm 90° bend with a 40>32mm reducer glued into the bend, and then a short piece of 32mm to an 1.5” trap. Simples. You can even just buy an anti-siphon 1.5” trap.

As @Nickfromwales is aware my real life view of woodcrete ICF is very different from his. We have never had any water come through the walls, no damp issues period, 5 years and counting since the walls went up. Yes we did parge coat to the inner wall for airtightness, 2 days work. We then attached 50mm battens (service void) and then plasterboard. Out of all the systems (Durisol) was easiest for me, no special props required etc. Just simple had tools.