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3D print a cowl?

Agreed. Of 80 lengths of 6 x 2, we took wet in an earlier batch, we sent back 40. I had wrongly assumed that the vacuum treatment would have collapsed and filled open pores with the treatment chemical. BUT someone suggests that was the case with old, oil-based treatment but no longer. The 40 rejected were up to 50mm bend over 6m. They will sell them to less critical builders. Cutting into 3m will make most passable. I once needed some 2 x 2 in a hurry so accepted the dregs from a merchant. One had a complete 90° twist over 4.8m.

So it is a panel rather than a slab that can be routed etc. Eg a profiled or cut edge would lose tha pattern? A panel for a builder rather than needing stone mason skills? So cheaper?

Yes. Depending on the building, plastic can sometimes simply look wrong. I dont know why, but metal gutters don't seem to fail or need maintenance. I suspect plastic twists in heat and cold, and so opens joints and sometimes goes out of line and level. Or maybe plastic is too easy to fit ( bending to suit less than perfect allignment) and isn't done so well. If you want black and it isn't a main feature then use plastic.

I think dekton is what I’d normally call a solid grade laminate - the kind you see toilet cubicles and IPS (integrated panel systems, the things you see behind toilets in commercial buildings) in public buildings which you have high thoroughfare/risk of damage. solid grade as opposed to high pressure laminate which is essentially melamine cited chipboard or MDF. One of the most obvious differences is that there isn’t any stone/quartz and its a „printed” surface meaning the pattern isn’t continuous through the product - cut edges will be collared the same as the core material which may be black, grey, white etc. but because it has no natural material within, it is allegedly more resilient to damage by heat, chemical etc BUT in my view whilst that’s great in some settings, because the pattern is only on the top, any deep gouges or physical damage the impact is more obvious because it exposed the core which is patternless

That's posh with the handle and standing up. That will do it rather quickly as a diamond grinder is OTT for that soft surface. But better that than struggling. Are you just smoothing it or taking a mm or two off? Dust! You'll need masks etc and do you vacuum it up? Whose decision was it to pour despite the rain? Or was it not forecast? It's a very big decision to cancel a pour, so I appreciate the pressure to do it.

In what respects? Better, worse?

No we decided to get a new one, well two new ones, which I fitted yesterday. Yuk job.

You're right there are lots if stone resin manufacturers, they're all probably much the same. Dekton is a very different material though

Yes it was raining when it was poured so the top got too wet. The self levelling concrete doesn't like that, and as a result it cracked on the surface. The tamping marks are because it started to go off because the crew doing it weren't very good. Looks like I will be hiring a grinder and doing the dirty work. Guess I need this for a week? https://www.hsstoolshop.co.uk/diamond-floor-grinders-for-hire-12022-p.asp

Thanks for that. Reporting back after talking to Hallmark re their external ‘Trojan’ Venetians I’m learning that: + the blinds install from below into a 120mm slot so that would also be how you would replace them. Depth of slot is a function of how long the blinds are as the 80mm slats stack inside. + the vertical guide rails could be inset but often are mounted directly to whatever holds the window frame - in our case a ‘window box’ as we’re building a timber frame. + costs are about £0.7K for a 1x1m window to £1K for a 2m W x 2.3m H. + they sit on a 4-core cable. You can route that to their switch or back to your own fancy control system.

Unfortunately not.

I had a flow meter error over night, so it stopped the heat pump, but interestingly the circulation pump continued to run on off every 15 mins. Checked the strainer all clean, reset the controller and it all restarted fine. Maybe some air still kicking about. Checked the control status log and it shows actually flow rate against an internal estimate of flow rate when it thinks it should be doing 20L/min it's actually doing 19L/min. Which also aligns well with the heat meter. So don't think there is an issue with the flow meter. Heat pump now playing catch-up and running flat out flow rate up to just under 20L/min.

Yeah it’s a bit nonsense, but we’re finding the better quality timber doesn’t warp even if it’s wet.

Anyone used the ally stuff formed on site to length?

Defo supposed to be a VCL. Breather would be on the external surfaces. With correct detailing, it could become the AVCL, but a lot of questions would need answering to assure you of this, plus a lot more attention to detailing. Are you having MVHR? I can't recall.

Piss poor planning, which any decent professional should be discussing ahead of the works commencing, and including in the game plan for when works begin. Keep your chin up, as these improvements will pay dividends over time. Defo worth the extra hard work and time that you're putting in.

Thank you both for your answers

I like the canal boat ones.

Good bit of AI generated slop there.😁 Ironically it's the sort of crap that we should be looking to stop as it probably took a good couple of kwh to generate.

Im still filling these areas. I have 9 to go! The area where the extension meets the house is the worst as the roof joists are also in the mix. I need to fill these areas as the warm roof would meet a ventilated attic space if I dont, thus nullifying my warm roof Having spent considerable time doing this horrible job in the evenings, I have been musing over what could have been done to make it better and the conclusion I came up with it the PIR and foam blocking up should have been done before any OSB sheeting went on top of the newly erected timber walls. This could have been made to be level with the pozi-joists and even a bed of foam of silicone added to the perimeter before the OSB was laid

You are "within tolerance".... Go enjoy the beer and sit with the other half.

Hi all, Would just like some reassurance over a building fabric usd in my renovation / extension. I had originally asked that I wanted to fit a breather membrane like Pro Clima Intello fabric into the extension ceiling space between the living area and the warm roof, the builder replied saying he had some material that was expensive, so I felt reassured that this would be suitable. My extension has had a green poly looking material fitted for some weeks now, which doesnt look like the Intello fabric up close, it looks like poly. Can anyone tell from this photo what has been fitted and whether it is suitable to be fitted in the ceiling? I found a similar looking material listed on ebay as a 'vapour control barrier' in the same green colour, but was to be used under wooden flooring. I have given up trying to get the place airtight now as there are so many holes, but I dont want any problems due to the wrong material being used.

Interesting. I like the idea as it reduces power it also reduces flow rate. My LG is set on needing 15L/min otherwise it shuts down with a low flow error. This variable flow seems so much more sensible. I have no plans to change at the moment, but if my present HP fails, this is the sort of thing I will be looking at when choosing a replacement.

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