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hung from a ceiling- are you doing cooling and have you got a condensate drain?

Chat being a shit today. I told it multiple times to (expletive deleted) off. As it would "this isn't proceed able ", or "it's too many bodged patches". You can imagine my responses! I told it to man the (expletive deleted) up, stop bitching and being shit because you've been down graded as 5.6 is coming out and to make a sentence from these letters 'FCUK OFF". 10 minutes later we progressed! Doesn't look much I know. But its a procedural landscape chunk based i.e. it's deterministic and infinite. Colours etc wrong; terrain variation limited at the moment. But this will be beauty! then I can cover it in tress and (expletive deleted) the frame rate! (I wont of course (expletive deleted) the frame rate). I've noticed it's shit at efficient techniques. We were doing complex things and it worked; I asked for a full breakdown of the render pipeline . 90% was on the cpu!!!. I said "you (expletive deleted)ing prick!". few hours later 90% on the gpu. It wants to "keep" the cpu code in!. I guess it's designed not to remove legacy stuff. Took a few attempts to get it all out not just set a flag to FASLE to avoid it. I call it bodger most the time. Again it's very human like!

Pictures of some of the sealant. The worst areas are on the roof, but as it was 35oC today, I was not going to get the ladder out and climb up to get the photo's😄 I'm quite embarrassed to show these as it shows obvious cracks which we should have sorted before now.🤔

Cool Energy do them. Panasonic and Daikin maybe, pretty similar to the Myson iVector 2. Have a look at Orion Air sales also they do a range of them.

We need a fan coil, in our bedroom. It was always part of the plan, so we have ‘lecky and pipes laid ready, but I can’t find one. I know that sounds dumb and maybe I am missing something obvious. But I can’t find one. So I need help. The brief: a 2 pipe fan coil which can be hung from a ceiling. Needs to be less than a meter wide. I identified the Myson iVector 2, which may have been perfect, but that’s not available, and they can’t even predict when it will be. And I simply can’t find an alternative. Help!

Contacted Starlink Weds evening. New gen 3 router turned up today. The only downside is that the new cable is different to the old. I now have to crawl through the loft space in this heat to fit the new cable and unclip the old one.

Funny that my Tesla Powerwalls died recently out of the blue. Tesla took a month but replaced them with PW3s FOC through warranty. It seems to be their modus operandi.

There is at least 1 structural wall to the WC and it will be supporting floors and / or walls above. Not a big deal but needs a structural engineer to look at. The second kitchen looks like an add-on. If it is not a properly built extension it may be better to remove and start again. It is a bit of a hotchpotch at the back and £10-15k does not buy you much nowadays unless you are keen on DIY and / or have family in the building trade. There are some architect / designers on here who may chip in.

I bought a generator for that, way easier to install. Then replaced that with a 13.5kWh battery with gateway for full power and never needed generator since

Think we are in the same ball park. Its just playing with dew points at different places in the system. The additional cooling adds an few extra degree of dew point movement. The additional HE can be anywhere in the system really, the outcome pretty similar. The energy in/out equation and dew point effect still gives the same answer. Adding the additional HE can work in summer and winter. Cooling and heating effect pretty small a few watts per m² but steps in the correct direction.

The thickness varies from 40mm to 90mm over diagonally opposite corners, over existing concrete slab. To be tiled with porcelain tiles.

You don't need LPG for that - you just need an EV. One of the best features of EVs is their V2L capability that allow you to run a 13A socket off the battery. You can power a lot of your house that way. Just make sure you check that it has V2L before you buy it as some of the older EVs don't. We are all going to be driving EV at some point anyway, so if you are self-building you might as well make the most of solar, home charging etc and get ahead of the curve.

With rainscreen cladding and a strongly ventilated cavity I have heard that insects don't like to live in there.

To be absolutely honest, a part of this is to have a contingency for cooking during a power outage. But that's a neat little portable alternative. Thanks.

Do they show a black beard? Or Seaman Stanes.

Shifting spoil at 7pm last night I cut down the cheap cotton work trousers they sometimes sell in Liddl / Aldi just below the knee pad pockets. They work quite well as pirate pants; all the extra rips and tears just add to the ventilation potential and I still have all my pockets and a hammer loop and knee pads. Cut upwards behind the knee for extra relief. Drives the girls mad... Straw hat with built in solar power fan Work boots was the worst bit. Last time I was in Hungary I found a shop selling steel toe sandals but didn't have enough pocket money. I'm deffo buying them the next time I visit!

good idea. Cheap enough that you could buy now to trial before you spend money on plumbing the house.

I agree that induction hobs are terrible for woks, but I've seen one of these in action in a restaurant and they are fantastic. Worth considering to save you a lot of hassle. https://www.nisbets.co.uk/buffalo-induction-wok/ja372

hopefully someone has the time to do the maths or get Ai to do it. But my guess is that water at 15-16C has nowhere near enough potential cooling in it to strip the humidity out of incoming humid air before the MHVR. (Dehumidifying humid air uses a similar amount of energy to cooling it). The MHVR can do effective bulk dehumidification but only to a limit. So my thought is let it do that for free then use the coils to take a bit more off the top once the MHVR has done as much as it can.

Yes. MVHR and actual cooling ability is pretty rubbish as flow rates are small. I was talking about management of humidity margin in cooling, so the RH is actually lowered by the MVHR. Having the unit upstream of heat exchanger cools the air and causes it condense, then it's reheated by the outgoing house air via the heat exchanger changing the RH. Net effect is lower RH when compared to outside air. One of the issues in winter with MVHR is it lowers the humidity levels too much with prolonged cold outside temperatures, you are just duplicating those effects to your advantage.

I'm now planning for Insulation, UFH and screed. We have no mains gas on site, but I'd like to run an LPG Wok Burner on our Kitchen island. Ideally, I'll have an bottle/tank positioned in an outdoor location that I can pipe to a built-in BBQ and to the LPG Wok Burner. But how to run the pipe? I know I'll need a Gas Safe guy to commission this work, but what would be a usual way to run a gas pipe across my Kitchen to an island? Should it be sleeved copper, with no connections, in the screed? It's a Beam & Block subfloor by the way. It's about 5.5m from the planned entry point to the Island. Has anyone done something similar?

You have read this haven't you.

Especially the pesent isnt dead enough, and has just enough energy to make a run for it. I never wanted the ruddy cats in the first place.

Agree with that thought. let the mhvr do the bulk to the dehumidification for free. The coil just does the top off. It means the temp difference between the water and air will be lower so less effective. But there’s no way near dew point water will be able to suck much out of the air but even a small amount might be enough.

I see you have shiny ridge clamps. We had this also, the roofer had ordered cheaper ridge kit than vmzinc that came in ral 7016 but the coating came off. The roofer agreed to go up on the ridge and shape a peice of roof material to cover the brackets and looks well.