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"more North Sea drilling will lower UK fuel prices and ensure energy security...." So a country that is the world's largest oil producer and 2nd largest exporters should be fine..... Right.... Right?....

Cor! Looks very much like it is indeed Eurocell. Thanks very much @BotusBuild I’ll pass that on 👍🏻

Ive got nothing useful to add other than yoo must really like swimming! The work and considerations required to stop a sewage treatment plant popping out of the ground caused me enough stess, but this is a whole other level.

Thanks all, so I either want more or less ventilation, a larger or smaller temperature differential, but we all agree on more insulation To get me through the winter, I think the starting point is sticking PIR on the garage door, and trying to improve how the door seals without jamming it (any ideas?). Then to figure out a longer term solution (conversion or replacement door). The garage has heated spaces above, to the side and back, and the remaining wall is double skin with partial fill insulation, so this may even reduce heat loss from the rest of the house. We run a dehumidifier in the house from autumn to spring, so if I get the garage airtight enough I'll run another in there. The two positions on ventilation both make sense because I could see how sealed + moisture control would work, but so could e.g. an extractor fan installed and higher airflow through the garage. Though the wind pressure from the 40mph gusts now having a path through the enclosed garage might bring in more moisture. Like @SteamyTea everything in our dry-and-well-ventilated shed rusted and some went mouldy, and that's why I'll try less ventilation first as high ventilation there didn't seem to work.

Insulating properly is expensive. You can run a dehumidifier for many years before you get close to the cost on insulating effectively. Its also quick and easy.

Techincally correct. But my barn was, before i made it somewhat airtight, rarely more than a couple of degrees adrift from outside. Because it was well ventilated. A couple of degrees difference isnt not that critical, a building full of damp air is.

Which is why you use a dessicant one in low temp environments. They also generate significantly more heat, which is useful in the OP's situation. And mine.

Have you guys finished taking the piss yet ? (and good luck getting your turbine tip speed close enough to the speed of light for relativistic length contraction to be in any way relevant to it)

Thanks for the tag @lookseehear, it’s been a great week on site with a bunch of cracking lads. Always makes the day go easier.

I started to understand it then got lost. I must be as hbar as 2 reduced plancks.

Eurocell? [Called Bill and Ted 🙂 ]

Really easy. Imagine you are taking a picture of spinning turbine. At a slow shutter speed, you get blurring of the blades. From the arc a blurred blade covers, and it's length, you can work out the angular speed, radians per second. Increase the shutter speed and you get less of a blurred arc, but a better idea of where the blade actually is. But if you keep reducing the shutter speed, you get to a point where you get a clear picture of the blade, but no idea how fast it is rotating. You also get 1/∞ which is a nonsense fraction, to a Plank Length is substituted, 1.8 x 10-35m, this is considered the smallest length that can still show information, and where quantum affects start to dominate. But to make matters worse, because the turbine is spinning, and the camera isn't, relativistic effects start to happen, changing the length of the turbine blade's arc, this is known as Lorentz–FitzGerald contraction. At this point, Newtonian Physics and traditional modern mathematics breaks down and witchcraft takes over. As for where to place a hob, the answer is quite simple, but can't be bothered to explain it.

An interesting risk assessment. As would be Mr Dibner's. Shouldnt the knot be a metre or so before the end?

Ask your builder to check with his insurer, what cover he has for designing a swimming pool. None obviously. And a warranty? Yes it could collapse or float when empty, or crack when full, unless designed as a water tank. 2 layers of mesh and careful detailing AND careful construction. The issue with stiff (which sounds good) ground is that any clay expands and contracts a lot seasonally, and with considerable force.

When I was a lad at Uni I met a Mr Dibner at my local pub - he used to live not far from my digs. At that time I'd not heard of him - and he wasn't the sort to point out his fame. After getting on well a few times, he offered to take me on one of his jobs - a quick inspection of a local chimney... just a small one. Lets just say it didn't go well for either of us. I was OK going up, but it took him nearly 3 hours to get me back down. All was well until we got to the bit where you had to go around the Corbeling near the top. The memory of clinging upside down off an ancient wooden ladder miles in the air is something that still gives me nightmares. It wasn't the height that frightened me, it was gravity and the woodworm holes. And the ground - the ground always wins! After that experience, jumping off a building with two decent ropes attached was a doddle... Even HSBC tower where you had to tie a bloody great knot in the end as the ropes as they ended 580 odd feet above the ground and it would be too easy to absentmindedly abseil of the end! I do get vertigo on tube escalators though...

That's a load of .... dirty water. 450 is a very big pipe indeed. Bad luck but that's a fair decision.

Loved the crossed h which was new to me, so looked it up. I thought this was all a terribly clever joke but see it's a real thing . The explanation is beyond me but I assume can be summarised as the thickness of a shortened length of scaffold board.

Sorry to hear this but at least you got a definitive answer. I would not go anywhere near a 450mm foul sewer with a high velocity flow.

Well yea, loads of bits I missed out, but it should get him going in the right direction.

They are for pansies. Apply the below and you will still be 'out' a bit. ΔxΔp≥ℏ/2ΔxΔp≥ℏ/2 where Δx is the uncertainty in position, Δp is the uncertainty in momentum, and ℏ is the reduced Planck's constant.

Seven Trent are a nightmare, it was a straight refusal, quote "we don't allow anything over the pipe, no matter what it is" so even if I forget the idea of a garage and have a shed, they still say that isn't allowed as its a build over, so basically we can't have any structure in the garden. Where is the justice in that? When I asked about having protection around the pipe, same answer 'NO'. Need to have a 7m space around the pipe, thats the whole garden. Frustrated is an understatement And to top it all, had drain cctv yesterday who stated the pipe is 450mm and they couldn't put the camera up as the water flow is too great

You will need a SE design for this. If your preferred builder does not like the SE proposal he would need to come up with a counter proposal with reasoning, that can be put to your SE for consideration. You could get a price for both.

A friend of mine is extending his property and is trying to get matching facia and soffits. Does anyone know what this type is called or where it can be purchased? TIA.

The calculations are pretty simple to work out the thermal losses to the ground. If we assume that ground is at 10°C and the room at 20°C and the insulation has a k-value of 0.04 W.m-1.K-1, then: U-Value = 1 / (l.k) where: l= insulation thickness U-Value = 0.7 W.m-2.K-1 So losses with a 10K temperature difference is 7 W.m-2, so an extra 35 W for the full 5m2 So very little is lost to the ground. Now the problem is really how hot will the floor actually need to be to heat the kitchen.

Any insulation better than none at all, but 60mm for the 'whole sandwich' just seems far too minimal to me. Others may disagree...