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So would you recommend using 2 x 2” aav’s at the furthest point nearer the bog in the ensuite and not bother with an aav in the family bathroom?

You only need the full capacity, if two WC's are flushed at exactly the same time, but adding AS traps to both basins would help a lot too.

I agree, the gate valve might need some adjustment, the problem I have though is that when the boiler reaches set temp it stops the burner immediately. There is no stabilised period. I will experiment though as I know that having the gate valve open 2 turns from closed doesn’t seem to effect the boiler. As always with the internet advise is confusing. Some say open the gate valve just enough to allow flow and some say open it fully for unrestricted flow.

PS mine is now set up on X plan (DHWP) so can’t do both at sane time but the gate valve still is in use just slowing the flow down to keep the boiler from throwing full power at the re-heat (viessman 16kW boiler with 4kW min output - vented 115 litre HW tank with stupid 0.3 m coil - although I have new unvented 180 litre tank to fit with 2.7m2 coil that will initially be set up as vented)

it would probably be worth a little experiment to optimise the gate valve setting ready for winter mine is set to 1 3/4 turns out from fully closed in all year round. Easy to find the optimum - fire up on HW only let the boiler stabilise at target flow temp then slowly shut the gate valve 1/8 of a turn at a time until the boiler trips out due to temp rising above set point (too little flow) back out again 1/4 turn and thats your setting for summer and winter (open enough for HW heating in summer to keep boiler happy and closed enough that in winter when running both CH and HW together for a period of tome that the route thro the coil isn’t stealing all the flow and starving the CH circuit

Google says 2.86 degs, long way off 12 degs.

Isn't the attraction of glulam , other than the long spans which you don't have, that it looks pretty? Painting and screws kind of lose that. OK I think I'm going to let you get on with it. But good luck.

Except at the ridge. You know not to put anything through it, but lots of people don't, including Architects. I only have horror stories and dire warnings to go on , as I never did one. We had it in our portfolio of options, and no client ever chose it, based on cost and the warnings about function. We also offered it with sliding fixings to allow for movement as otherwise it can ping. Yes do it yourself. Forget degrees and stick to the more useful horizontal length , height difference and slope distance. you can do this yourself with a tape and a long stick. 430mm height difference over 9m ( 1 in 20 or so) would indeed be effectively 'flat' and not a great idea in metal cladding. Come back when it's worked out.

We put standing seam on a roof and the customer had solar added. The were fixed by brackets that clamped onto the standing seams. The roof actually had a slight fall to north but it still worked fine. The standing seam was Kalzip type.

It's probably me getting confused. I took what I was told by roofing bod, but maybe I misunderstood. Back to algebra to work it out properly.

Agree with @Spinny if the rule was not around until 2023 your steel was already in. Point this out to BC. You can't comply with rules that did not exist at the time.

The chamber is fine. The old chambers with the traps often get blocked and are not used now. The rat blockers fitted inside the chamber work well.

It's never been the look for me (though I like the look). The whole appeal of standing seam for me is (assuming it's continuous on a single surface) nowhere that can leak. All the joins overlap and crimp in place. Therefore, once you add junctions and weird shapes the appeal fades.

Jeepers...scream...yes... and shit standing up for evermore... https://www.express.co.uk/news/weird/1948864/woman-screams-rat-stares-up

Was hoping to leave it on show and paint it. Using screws internally to the glulam would allow three faces to have no fixings showing

Having listened to the advice already given, thank you, I have now adjusted the boiler flow temp to 70c and the cylinder stat to 50c. The cycle has improved, the boiler now burns up to the set temp in about 22 mins and then turns the burner off, approx 2-3 mins later the cylinder stat gets to its set temp and ceases to request heat resulting in the boiler completely switching off (normal behaviour). I measured the temp out of the nearest tap and it was approx. 55c.

Still looks a bit short 🤣🤣 Good luck sir.

An s plan has two normally closed motorised valves, one for heating and the other for DHW, they can be operated independently of each other. I also have a gate valve on the HWC return which at present is set to 3 out of 5 full turns.

Sunsets do it for me!. Been working on "real" rainbows. Most engines cheat at this but mine's created correctly (I think!). Now I need the water to freeze over time. GPU burden has been creeping up again as expected. So optimisations required yet again. Lightening thunder storms are extremely impressive and expensive!

Whether mounted over or inset, you will see solar panels, not metal roof. As you imply it is expensive I assume it is standing seam. I would never, ever put any opening into standing seam: it's sole purpose is appearance and its main problem is sealing at joints and interfaces. I avoid openings in any metal roof but SS is an issue. Hang on... 12 degrees is about 20% isn't it, or one in 5. So a 9m span has a rise of 1.8m, not 430mm. Am I getting confused?

That's why I suggested bolts and nail plates. Add glue if you want and the bolts will pull it tight. But even if the glue fails completely it will perform as well. Nailplates: I've used the wrong term. I had in kind these, called plate connectors but meant that they had spikes on both sides to join the touching faces. But these linking the tops and bottoms would work. I'm assuming it's out of sight!

Nice fella at the garage near work extended the stopcock key. Asked how much, don't be daft he said, wonderful that some folk are just so nice

Our lounge is all glass on one wall but to make things worse it comes out to a peak to form a bay window 6m tall. So we get Westerly sun which circumvents the roof overhang. Fine mid afternoon. But on the upside we have only used 144kWh of electric doing cooling this year, getting SCoP of 6+. All of that supplied direct from PV. So missed out on £17 of export.

When we added a second set of PV a few years ago the plan was to have generation all day long by spreading the panels from SE to NW as we didn't have a battery. The NW array does virtually nothing in the winter but does keep the generation going to cook tea for maybe 6 months of the year. Now we have a battery charged off cheap overnight eleccy we let all the PV run to the grid and grab the Octopus export payments. Without a battery you'd need quite a sizeable array correctly orientated to power you through early morning and evening without drawing much from the grid, even in summer. PVGIS gives your hourly generation forecasts so you can have a play and model the panels you could install versus the house load through the day. Or get a battery.

You can buy a one way valve that you can pop in and it stops rats. Amazon sells a good quality Rosshield one. And yes, they can swim.