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Indeed. FWIW, to the OP, this has been thrashed out here previously, and yielded much the same results.

When compared to lower performing insulation such as newspaper or plastic sheet pinned to timber.

Well I don't think you will ever be able to get a full length into the space with enough bearing on both plates. So looks to be leaving you with option 2. I'd be looking to strip the bottom row of felt and replace.

The nation is on the edge of their seats.

If he ignores this, then there is no hope.

So do you have suitable air gaps either side of the super foil? You need these sizes of battens either side to get the performance advertised. If you haven't bought or started doing insulation yet, I would use Mineral wool between studs (Rockwool Flexi or Frametherm 32) then full sheets of PIR on top of studs and a small service void batten.

We've got a trusted joiner who has done a brilliant job so far with cladding, plasterboarding etc who is going to fit the stairs. Having tried the online staircase builders (TK and Stairbox), I've found that I really want to talk to someone face-to-face to discuss tolerances, the spacing between the stringers for a staircase with a half-landing, attachment details for the balustrade to the stringer, etc. The best option I have found so far is Stairbox - they have a showroom attached to their factory and someone available to help with the design.

Not without damage as the felt is properly fixed. I have to say that compared the the old bungalow, this garage was well built with attention to detail.

Can you lift the bottom row of tiles and felt and slide the new joists in from outside

It's just like this but with ties every other rafter.

No it won't, a 30kw oil boiler would cook you alive in there. Accept this as a fact because I have installed gas and oil all my life. It's not a hobby, it's fed and clothed us, and if nothing worked I wouldn't have a career out of it would I? Part 1. Please stop ignoring the fact that I live in a near identical house to yours, it's a little frustrating for you to keep dismissing direct and factual information. My gas boiler doesn't ever output more than 12-14kw, because my house is never allowed to go "stone cold" each day (in winter) and only ever runs at its max output when producing instant hot water (it's a combi boiler). To shut down what the buffoons who fitted this have stupidly said to you, because it is absolute and total fecking nonsense, you can listen to and rely upon what I am saying to you, because I happily consider myself to be an 'expert' in making homes comfortable. I've been fitting oil boilers / gas boilers / electric 1 and 3 phase boilers / ASHP's and GSHP's for around 30 years. Installing MVHR etc for over 10 years. Wiring things for over 36 years, including the QMII before it's maiden voyage out of Southampton. Listen to me, and all the other people on here, most of whom know more than I do and have all got ASHP's or gas boilers, and they all work. **************** Part 2. I have already offered a solution which was to run the heating at night on the setback temp, the one you said you'd ask the engineer to implement for you so we can run at least one months TRIAL of the heating. I suggested times for the heating to go between comfort and setback, I said go for 15oC setback (this would not overheat you, but it would also allow the rest of the house to not go "stone cold"), and you can define these to suit your wishes; I suggested 22:00 - "setback" 07:00 - "comfort". This is how I use mine, but with a very small difference in temp between night and day. I do this because it is cheaper to not let the house go "stone cold" every night. FACT. The above methodology of going from setback > comfort > setback > comfort and so on, is done by you having the heating "ON CONSTANT" vs it going "ON/OFF", but it will cycle the heat in only to replace what is lost to the clouds eg it won't be overheating you at all, just keeping you at the lowest temperature that you will accept (the one where you cant see your breath at night). ************* Part 3. The extra room stat would take command of the times and temp, and would avoid you needing to learn how to make these changes on the fixed controller that came with the ASHP. I suggested this as: a) it needs to be moved b) moving it requires cable / time / labour / higher cost (even though I'd insist your "expert" should move it for free as it's their laziness that has resulted in it being in the wrong place) so you'd be spending money moving a thing you still fear or cannot manipulate. c) the units like mine are very easy to use and to program / make changes on. These have simple timeclocks which are no more difficult to set than a digital alarm clock. This means as you trial and error different temps at different times, you can make these changes without any "experts" needing be in attendance. The one that you have now just becomes an installer interface for making fundamental changes (such as the 40-45 flow temp settings and hot water temp setting) Lets get heating cracked, and then the installer tomorrow can better time the hot water to suit you. Think today what times each day you need the tank hot and ask him to set these times.

Nice Boomtown Rat Reference

Hi - I plan to remodel our en-suite. New shower tray, new floor tiles and to avoid retiling the whole ensuite I'm planning to make shower (900x1200) area a contrast tile. Shower area has a small tiled stud wall along the 1200 edge which I will remove and the existing wall tiles up to the stud wall will be fine to tile from into shower area some 900mm plus stud wall thickness. On the opposite 900mm wall this runs back to a door. Plan is to cut tiles in line with the door frame so to tile into shower area from that. But....how do I cut tiles in position from top of door frame to celing. I can remove door architrave and use a small rotary cutter with diamond blade and spray water on it but there will be a portion of uncut tile as i cannot cut right up to ceiling. Multitool cutter or Dremel or? Thanks for any advice.

Picture would be helpful of the existing situation. Can you put a plate ontop of existing ties or would it not be above existing due to rafters

I need to create a loft in the existing garage before I build the new one. It's got a traditional pitched roof with rafter tiers every other rafter. The ties aren't of sufficient size to use as rafters across the current span, so I'm considering how to easily add joists across to create my new loft space. Options I'm considering are: 1. Cut ends of new joist on the diagonal and then fix to existing wall plate - but with sufficient bearing on the wall plates I don't know if I can slot them in; 2. Install wall plates to the wall just below the ties and fix new joists to these (garage has sufficient height for this); 3. Sister the ties with the new deeper joists - and add new ones to rafters without existing ties. Walls are ashlar faced breeze block. Any thoughts, ideas and experience to help me decide? Any details I need to be aware of?

No I have PIR between studs then ybs super quilt over the top and battened in place

Getting there. Hopefully fitting it in a bit:

That would be an option but the two culverts are 10 meters left an right from the sides of my plot, when I looked at the stone culverts one was collapsed below the road and the other is really only suitable for septic tank run off, when my site floods it really floods, it never used to happen but now it floods badly two or three times in the winter

I used TK, everything done off their design tool with at least 5 revisions. Phoned them a few times, not visited but they might be open for a chat in their office. Who is fitting it for you, probably more important to check the measurements on site.

Probably more likely to find a firm with a rep who does site visits than a fixed showroom

What if you go the route with the neighbours drain or culvert but fit non return valves to their pipes?

@Nickfromwales's suggestion of just wiring in an external wireless one is the easy solution to that. TBH I think that's likely the better option in anycase. But doesn't seem like something that will be ready for Monday.

Another issue with heat pumps, is the supplied controller often comes with a pre made cable to connect it and that is not always very long. Mine would not reach to where I ultimately would have liked it, so is in my plant room / workshop. That is another reason why I don't use the timer or thermostat built into the ASHP controller and instead configured it to use external controls. So just "move your thermostat" might not be a trivial exercise.

Unfortunately there is no easy solution, I need to ensure no storm water is running through over my site, I cannot put any form of bank or wall at rear of the site as this shall divert storm water through my neighbours garden, this was highlighted with objecections from both neighbours at planning stage, planning was granted as I said I would resolve this issue, no objections from the environmental agency as they said it was not on a flood plain, I need this resolved once and for all so I never have issues in the future, at the rear of plot I am installing a storm channel with flag stones on top with a 2cm gap between them and galvanised storm grating at lowest point, then run an 8”/10” drain through the sight and under the road to the field across the road, I could tie the drain to be installed through my site into two small 4” sewage pipes from both neighbours but during heavy rain this may create issues with sewage backing up, I also do not want to finish my house and landscaping then have to dig things up again due to trying to cut corners at this stage

The important thing is the thermostat is moved into the cold, old, part of the building, not close a raditor or other heat source. It doesn't strictly have to be the coldest room as long as its generally cold in the area. Putting it in the hallway or the bottom of the stairs is common. If you moved it into your warm bedroom/warm workshop that would be bad and might make things worse.