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In the image below they’ve managed to install sockets without any of the wires on show. The socket back box I assume has been fitted into the bricks by cutting a hole. But what about the wiring. How can you achieve this look. Have they ran the cables behind the wall as in the cavity? Is this allowed with insulation in the cavity, on what looks like an external wall. Thanks.

Yes that it very doable.

The way i see it is there is a risk. Big, small, hard to say. Removing it means that risk is removed. Given the problems and rework required "if" its a problem, personally, i wouldnt take the risk.

This!

Good summary. Theres not a chance in the world i would put a render over woodfibre. Whilst the principle of vapour open is fine of itself, the reality of our climate especially here in wales, means that it will be getting wet, much more than it gets a chance to dry. Water will always find a way in. The idea just doest pass the common sense test. It was earlier this year i watched a brief storm batter my house from the west with horizontal rain, causing a rooster tail of the ridge tiles. Shame i didnt have my phone. But a handy reminder why we invented cavities.

Have you taken I to account the extra 100kg of panels plus the ballast for each one? How much ballast do they take... I guessed at 100kg each 🤷🏻‍♂️ My numbers were for a standard roof plus about 700kg extra.

If they lose the stupid name and make the colours more neutral, that may help.

Mineral wool batts. Absolutely not put boards. They're next to impossible to install properly in the real world

So you mind that Qube house that never sold. https://www.colliersni.com/development/the-qube/CNRDEV145/ I passed it today, scaffold up and rust on windows.

Bear in mind that lots of EWI has been a disaster recently. Lots of mould, damp and ventilation issues, so this needs to be done meticulously, especially mixing EWI and IWI.

Try it on a small section.

Yes. Look up "Leaky Condo" and see the consequences of omitting a drained vented cavity on timber frame.

Dritherm 32 cavity slabs.

Built in mineral wool slabs. 150mm now a standard thickness

Can you space them at 300mm (4 bricks) vertically, staggered each side of the pier, 100mm in? That would give you about 6-8 ties.

Poly beads.

Very good point. All bar one of ours are SE facing, the other is NE but will only get any sunlight in the very early morning. All quite small windows too.

Small 2-bed semi-detached, solid-wall house, uninsulated concrete floor. No heritage value, no features to keep at all. (the beautiful slate roof has already been replaced with a monstrosity). Very sheltered. No damp showing in house at the moment. I can't live with having an uninsulated house. Its what I do- I insulate things! I've only ever done IWI before, but this house is already tiny. I was thinking: The block garage will be nominally 'done up' into a nice workshop, it won't be heated but indirect heat from adjacent room is about right. As the side of the garage is an earth bank I would IWI it- 100mm pir, and a new flat roof (100mm pir) with some kind of sunroof/roof lantern/lightwell. Includes blocking up the front garage door. Solid concrete floor, probably cover in rubber matting for workshop use. EWI on the gable end of the house- 150mm eps- down to the garage roof. I will extend the house roof to overhang the insulation. EWI on the back of the house to dpc level- will need to change the roof to overhang, change the guttering and work around windows (they'll need moving). Would like to go below dpc level, but seems pointless only on the back. The front of the house is awkward, there's electricity cables there, a porch, and EWI would make it be offset from the attached neighbours house. Is it worth sorting all of this, or shall I IWI that bit? 50mm pir would fit, with a turnback on the adjacent wall. The attached side of the house- downstairs is a gennel- so that’s exterior wall. Upstairs is party wall, so I can ignore that. The gennel is very narrow and I can't insulate externally. But internally its mostly a set of stairs, so not much room there either. I shall have to resort to aerogel IWI or something, working around the stairs. Better ideas welcome here. Loft will be drowning in insulation- 300mm (currently 150). I will probably get a professional to model this for me (Recommendations for a thorough job in Derbyshire/Nottinghamshire?). Or might even learn myself (would a retrofit assessor course be any use?). Its an area of interest, though it would never be a job for me. I would like to DIY a large amount of it (As I find it great fun, I am capable, and have family tradesmen that will help). Ideas/experience/comments welcome!

What’s the best way to fill a 150mm cavity with insulation? Should I partially fill it and go with 100mm PIR with 50mm gap as is being suggested? Wall build up intention here; Clayworks plaster or paint Plasterboard dot dab 100mm block not specced yet 150mm cavity 100mm block not specced yet Render by Baumit I think Theres scope for a wider cavity to be honest but architect is saying going wider would increase costs as majority of ties and other ancillaries or all geared for 150mm cavity’s. I’m not keen on blown EPS beads. Editing to add, the roof is a pitched roof, gable end to end. Intention is a cold roof, with loft roll above joists then boarded over for loft storage.

Thanks. I guess I was thinking you were referring to circular/bulb style ones. bulb style with controllable CCT seems pretty difficult to find outside the wireless 'smart' bulbs which I don't think is a good solution.

Insured tree man. Like you say too built up around there. Ideally one with a stump grinder as well. Done and dusted in 1 day then.

That one was LED strip and appropriate driver. IIRC it was from DLD with an LTech driver https://www.darklightdesign.com/architectural-lighting/led-tape/112654/ https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/ltech-professional-24v-dali-constant-voltage-led-driver-36w-ip20

The camera has now been claimed by @TDK so no longer available. Thanks all!

Funny you mention that. A fellow director of the RTM for my building was saying the same thing today about Thames. In other buildings he manages sounds like the pressure has dropped significantly in the recent past. Mrs. Alien 😆 I suppose my priors are that unvented systems usually have much higher pressure/flow than pumped vented systems. Maybe that doesn't apply in your case. Fair enough.

Main drivers Poor Mains Pressure (it used to be way better but I think the local water company has turned the pressure down to the min it can get away with because of leaks) All the showers are currently pumped and are "Mrs Alien Nice" Frequent interruptions to supply (probably while they try to fix the leaks) means I'm unaffected due to CW tank in the loft High level of "sand" in the water which settles in the cold water tank and means my ceramic cartridge taps around the house are unaffected (I had to replace the cartridge on my kitchen tap after only 3 months - it's the only tap fed by mains cold so that gets a normal tap)