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Aka polarisation.

Ah! We can see you want to get this right, not cut corners, well done you! The first thing is to recognise that building is not an exact science. We almost always need to combine different materials, that behave in a different way. What we often seek is the best compromise in a non ideal world, that is often driven by buildability. If you take the KFK bracket. It's powder coated on galvanised steel. Now stainless steel screws are not completely compatible with galvanised steel, if the powder coating does not act as an electrical barrier. Inevitably the screw will breach the powder coating, making an electrical circuit. But as the screws are small and the galvanised gutter is large in comparison the galv gutter acts as the sacrificial anode. On this note although technically a stainless screw is a bit incompatible with the gutter we need to look at what the screw is going into, say timber wise. Now if it's into acidic types of timber, say oak then you would be best with a stainless steel screw. It's all about seeking the best compromise! The photo posted. I note the bottom screws looks like a roofing screw, the head is too large, washer under. Hence the possible clash. Check again the Lindab info about countersunk screws and watch Robin Clevett video again. Pan head screws make sense to me as the hole tolerance difference is negligible. Remember your building is going to settle / shrink expand deferentially! Probably a lot more than a mm on you gutter fall! To provide some context.. over 50 years we often, as a starting point expect 25mm settlement! Bear this in mind at all times when setting your gutter falls and take a pragmatic view! If you think about the loads on the gutter. The middle of the gutter applies not just downwards load to the bracket but also what we call an eccentric load. This causes a rotational / prying force which puts the top fixing in tension. Now a pan head screw, when you analyse it, is not generally going to pull through the bracket. Rather, the key point of failure is going to be the top screw pulling out the timber fascia. In summary make sure your fascia is thick enough and use stainless steel pan head screws compatible with the hole in the gutter bracket. Make sure your fascia is well fixed back to the main structure.

There has got to be more to this story? Do you fancy furnishing us with more detail? How did Environmental Health get involved, or had your BC gone on a course, but not understood what they were getting taught?

Hello again, The Lindab manual, page 3, advises stainless steel screws to fasten brackets. https://europeangutters.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Lindab_assembly_rainwatersystem_EN.pdf The KFK fascia brackets are on page 15 and the instruction is "countersunk wood screws". Nevertheless the Lindab supplier sent roofing screws. =8~/ The attached photo shows the two forms of screw. The back of the gutter needs to shift up to contact the top of the bracket whereas the head of the roofing screw catches the edge of the gutter. So I want to order appropriate screws. Countersunk flat heads. Eg. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012148922787.html Pan head is also available and more appropriate to seat on a flat surface. Eg. https://aliexpress.com/item/1005011877169921.html For the st4.8 the head is ~9.5 mm diameter & ~3.7 mm high. The perimeter of the hole in the bracket is flat rather than countersunk. Any ideas why Lindab recommends a countersunk head to seat on a flat surface? If specific to the instructions for Canada, I'd wonder whether it's just an idea from a non-technical document editor. Thanks, ... P.

We have a 6kW R290 Maxa. Slightly higher power than you ask for but seems to be ok. Comes in a pleasant colour too (for it’s position in our garden). Is there any difference in sound level in general between R32 and R290?

Sorry everyone. My terminology was wrong. I mean posi joists.

This is exactly what I've noticed. They resemble a piece of spaghetti along the length. The strong backs that you need to fit apparently flatten it all out, but there is a slight problem. Strong backs are solid sections of timber running perpendicular to the open posi joists. DOH! Homer Simpson would be proud.

This is for a shepherd hut I'm building with the aim of renting out to tourists. Sounds like my local planning authority prefer septic tanks to cesspools which surprised me a little. (I was going to go for an underslung tank attached to the shepherd hut chassis) Also can anyone explain how the system works? Does all the waste water from showers and sinks get combined with sewage waste and go to the tank? And from there a soakaway means treated waste will soak into the soil? I'm looking at this tank but it seems some what small septic tank soakaway kits - Septic Tank Kits & Septic Tanks UK | SepticTank.co.uk but I guess if its self emptying that doesn't matter.

Ours is in the roof space/ attic and works just fine. Set it up by looking at neighbours and the using signal strength gauge in the TV menu.

Quite!

That will be right - not

Well I raised potential cooling with the service engineer who came today. Mines a Vaillant and whilst it apparently can do it he didn't recommend it as the "underfloor pipes can contract and crack the concrete". I wasn't going for the sub-zero approach, merely say 16 degrees.......

Best get you finger out, before it's all cancelled (see latest news) - £9k is only applicable if you don't have a gas connection.

FWIW one of Valliant guys on their stand at the NEC a couple of weeks told me they included the resistor for cooling with the plus model.

Wow, ok. That's a lot more than I thought.

Octopus, Ebac, a lot of Mitsubishi and Daikin ones, don't support cooling at all and others. Valiant needs a widget to make it work, Grant only enables cooling if you do not select radiators within your heating system. Not sure about Viessmann. Panasonic does support cooling also out the box.

Any follow up on this - I want my 9 grand

Oh, and tells you which way your aerial fins should point depending on whether it is a main or repeater transmitter (horizontal or vertical).

If you are installing it yourself, Antenna Finder on iOS is excellent, and the developer is very helpful too. You pop your postcode in or let it find your GPS coordinates, and it lists all the transmitters, distance, power, and locations (degrees) and suggests the best one for you.

Of the modern r290 ones are there any that don't support cooling?

Midea M Thermal. Pretty trivial to switch between heat/cool/both using the built in controller

Interesting to see peoples ideas on the sequence of rooms. I'd say a lot depends on just what things are currently like in different rooms. When we moved in over 30 years ago we started with the living room because it was just too depressing to sit in there. The rest of the house needed doing BUT we lived with it and bathed the kids in the existing bathroom's yellow plastic bath with a cracked side panel. It was 8 years before we did the bathroom. But we didn't have any capital as you do - however although you have capital to spend the work will be paced by your labour availability. Fabric of the building is definitely good to do, but there is a balance and phasing to think about there too. You can probably spend a lot of money - all new windows and external doors, new roof, insulation, rewire and plumb whole house, new floors and u/floor heating everywhere, new ceilings and replaster everywhere etc. But then it could be an awful long time before you even have one finished room to relax in. Some of these things can be done piecemeal - e.g. rewiring can be done room by room, circuit by circuit, or floor by floor etc. We have one consumer unit for most of the house, and another for the new extension and adjacent areas. Or you can do first fix but leave 2nd fix. If you know what the overall plan is, it can be built out in stages. And the ladies like to have somewhere nice to sit in and to do their interior design thing with. Yes you can say it is inefficient because a professional refurb would never be done that way - they would strip the whole house, trades come in and do the whole house, everywhere is a filthy dusty building site for many months on end, eventually the finishing trades come in and suddenly you get the whole swan at once. But try living in that while it is happening ! The spending choices are going to be really tough - do you spend up on a nice sofa for the sitting room - or go ikea and spend up on high density plasterboard - bog standard rads - or designer ones etc etc. Exciting though.

In fact thinking about it, the electrician asked about the aerial and said fit it and told him where to fit it, he got the got the guy out and added the cost to his bill - I did nothing except point at where to install the aerial

Haier R290 4kW, comes out the box setup for heating and cooling, wouldn't bother with R32 as R290 in the real world performs better as they are generally the next generation design.

Are there any other reversible monobloc ASHPs in the 4-5kW max output range... Daikin EBLA04 (R32 based) Vaillant aroTHERM Plus v2 3.5kW Samsung 5kW Gen 7 R290 Grant Aerona 290 4kW HPR2904 TIA