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Can you provide a bit more info for example: 1/ Do you have an "Architect" that is taking the lead on the warrant submission? 2/ What are you building / designing? 3/ What is your time progamme / expectation in terms of getting warrant approval? Borders Council are small, but cover a big area, they don't have a lot of resources compared with South Lanarkshire for example. The key here is to first identify what your issues are.

Agree this is the probable cause. Can of worms here. I've noticed that the adverts say 10 year guarentee.. but in the fine print often now there is a caveat of 7 years on the glass units, both 2g and 3g. For all. I often post about taking a pragmatic and philistine apporach to say underfloor heating, I recollect that I've said similar applies to glazing in the sense that we are looking for the things that "are built into the house" to last the design life of the house. Now it's true glazing units can last a very long time. I've seen some still hanging in there 20 - 25 years or more. But the reality is that a lot of glazing units are going to have to be replaced at some point often before the rest of the building fabric does. This is a hidden cost, you could call it a maintenance cost that comes around every decade or so. In summary, when desinging buildings I make my Clients aware of this "hidden cost"and let them make up their own minds. I have Clients that say.. this is our "forever home". OK, but if it is you have to be aware that if you select really high end / expensive glazing then there is going to be a sting in the tail later on when they fail. One way to reduce the long term cost risk is to use a lower spec glazing system and spend the money on the wall, floor and roof insulation that we know will last the lifetime of the building. I have some Clients that don't have a bean to rub together, others are well funded and happy to take the risk. It's a personal choice, so long as I inform them then it's up to them how they spend their money. You might get lucky as you might be able to slide the new glass in from the casement side? Hang fire taking off the cladding for now!

Numpties.....

I have panels in GSE trays on both side of my garage. Rather than have a row or rows of slates at the bottom of the panels , we used a verge tray and the rain runs off the lower panels direct into the gutter. Makes life simpler.

My timber cladding reveal boards overlap the aluminum of the window which itself ovelaps the glazing unit - they'll have to come off unfortunately. Doable, but irritating given I only finished installing today.

Not yet - Planning app is Pending Consideration.

We have 200sqm total, zone 1 ground floor, zone 2 on the first floor, a controller / temp probe in the hallway on each floor. We’ve switched them to 19, from 21 degrees and it’s comfortably warm to work in. It might need to go back up when we are eventually just sitting around 😊 but while we’re still working away inside it’s nice and warm. We parted company with our original ASHP heating system designer because they refused to do 2 zones, wanted trv in every room and wouldn’t factor MVHR into their calculations. BC were happy with the two zones so that’s what we’ve got.

It is a bit. I see that on the inner leaf just above floor level you are maybe changing the material or masonry unit aspect ratio... be careful here as you may get longitudinal differential shrinkage.. this might result in a very nasty longitudinal crack in your wall just above skirting level with a plaster finish. I can see that you already have much of the substructure in place and it's much like trying to work with what you have. It's going to take a bit more thinking through. Is the insulation EPS boards or beads? My inclination is to have some form of barrier between the zone that could be saturated ( of partly) and the dry bit above.

As per the title - I have been let down by a succession of structural engineers who have turned out to be unwilling or incapable of producing the work needed for the buiding regs. stage of my application. If anybody can recommend one, preferably in and around the Scottish Borders region, I'd be very pleased to hear it. Either reply here, or PM me. Many thanks.

Congratulations. I like the forest shower. What is that?

I would do 10mm to every hot tap except the shower and bath. 6l/min is what we get at the kitchen tap and I think it's plenty. If you want 10l/min I just blend in a bit of cold with the tap mixer. It also limits less economical types than yours truly pouring endless quantities of hot water down the drain too if you're feeling a bit scrooge like.

For all as a cautionary note. Selecting screws / nails can be a bit of a minefield. Screwfix for example say "corrosion resistant".. but how resistant? All fixing have generally some resistance. We often spend lots of time designing fixings and connections so we need to know the right fixings are getting used and we can have some data on their corrision resistance as that gives us confidence. In my specifications I often ask for a screw fixing corrosion resistance of Service Class 2 (SC2). I've copied an explanation from Rothoblass which explains it in lay terms: The reference standard (EN 14592:2022) classifies exposure conditions into service classes and corrosivity classes, helping engineers and builders make informed choices. Service class The service classes (SC1, SC2, SC3, SC4) describe the timber’s moisture content based on the temperature and humidity conditions of the environment: SC1: elements in indoor environments with low and relatively stable humidity levels. Moisture fluctuations are minimal. SC2: elements in partially covered areas or exposed to moderate humidity. This includes porches or semi-protected structures, where timber can occasionally absorb moisture. SC3: elements exposed to the outdoors or high-humidity contexts. Temperature and humidity fluctuations are significant, and the moisture content in the timber reaches high levels. You can find out a bit more here: https://www.rothoblaas.com/blog/timber-screws-corrosion-factors-and-durability

I don’t know how timber windows are fitted with glazing units, but hopefully there will be some kind of beading holding the pane in and that’s all that will need removing.

I had recorded the ventilation rates as measured by the (uncalibrated) forum anemometer. All the BCO noted was the lack of trickle vents and referred to the plans and said "oh mechanical ventilation" and that was it. I never had to show them anything.

Looks like you are your way to a cost effective solution. Watch these masonry bolts as if the expansive anchor type or say Thunder Bolts you can easily disturb / crack the masonry at the top of a wall. If you use the wrap over type hanger then then the wrap (if of say 70mm) does most of the work. Have fun!

Ya. Less material = lower production costs.

Is this built yet?

Pretty sure they're injection moulded.

Wow, well done. I have to say that it has been a pleasure seeing your progress and we are so pleased everything has gone pretty much to plan. All very best wishes to you both for a long and happy life in your new home.

My BCO noticed the lack of trickle vents so I showed him the MVHR, ooh that’ll do the job he said. I self installed and did fill out a commissioning sheet but never submitted it and it wasn’t requested.

Not bl**dy long enough 👿

No, that's a wardrobe and dressing area. Wardrobe yet to be fitted out of course 😂 Behind the dressing area is the master ensuite (separate room).

Watch this, lots of reasons to dump the glycol - plus are you managing it's condition and any acidity build up. https://youtu.be/gHHrQzoX7C0?si=GtEdv9g732mCe_xK

I had a guy come out and commission mine 2 years later as wasn't happy with my job never used anonometer. The guy was reccomended by firm who supplied the gear. Complete chancer. Used a hot wire tester or whatever it is with no hood. The cert he issued me balanced up the sums but was missing a room supply terminal. When I told him this he just added that into the figures and then it didn't balance. He had just made up the numbers I think. Needless to say he wasn't paid.

Most self builders on the forum had no issues with their BCO and MVHR. My BCO rejected my first self certifying report as the Anemometer had no proof of being calibrated, (used the Buildhub anemometer) I hired this :https://www.inlec.com/testo-417-vane-anemometer-with-flow-hoods Wrote a commissioning report with photos and had to be a little creative with the figures as our MVHR is slightly undersize for the volume of the house. Works perfectly though.