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it does but if you look at the two details in comparison, they are different. The detail from MBC is spreading the load between EPS & slab. The above detail is compac foam sitting 60% approx. on slab, 40% on insulation. It needs supported full depth and down, not on 100mm of insulation.

@Ed_ Not read all of the above, apologies but it is Friday night. 🍷 If it’s of any use we used GRP angles to support the sliding doors and negate any thermal bridge. MBC, timber frame.

The entire 2 storey outer leaf of the MBC TF twin wall system sits on it (the EPS upstand), and it's rated to also take the feck knows how many kg/m2 of cement board + adhesive + 30mm thick stone slips that hang of that outer leaf.

Will the EPS that's holding the whole house up compress? Erm, "no". Once the weight of the static (not dynamic) load of the window / door is spread out over the 3/4/5m lengths, and is sat onto ridiculously strong CF200, then you can literally park a car (or a window) on it. Bear in mind it is higher load capacity EPS too, not the stuff that stops your new washing machine getting damaged in the delivery truck. If both Norrsken and MBC are doing this routinely, I think the pill of chill can be taken. As principal consultant I have to go to actual peoples actual builds, and actually do these things. I sleep well, and my phone stays quiet at night, which comes from nearly a decade of working with high-end fenestration and all types of foundations and insulation systems. Nobody's rung me up to say they've had an issue.........yet. I am quite meticulous in the execution and methodology of these installs, (batshit crazy levels of OCD actually), so it is accepted that a crap fitter using the same materials would have a poor outcome with reduced longevity. Do the job right, do it once.

Can't get a labourer for less than £140-£160 in the land of the English. Last time I QS'd a job (very) near London, some were advising to allow £600 a day (landed) for a sparky!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got to pay to sharpen their tools and all sorts

As long as its anti-tear, yes. This is better stuff, and can be delivered. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG10T.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=&placement=&kw=&network=x&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=BG10T&product_partition_id=&campaign=shopping_excluded&version=finalurl_v3&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17412537060&gbraid=0AAAAAD-6GhlJa-VEmBUZA3QiMsZIdbAub&gclid=Cj0KCQiAk6rNBhCxARIsAN5mQLsb5uQjxT58j8lVt6RN3m5ce5vT9k99qOyPwbiZavHMyGxo9IJ4eRsaAiHjEALw_wcB

would diall silver foil tape from screwfix do the job?

£280 wouldn't even get you 2x labourers or apprentices in the south east imo. It seems roughly correct for a groundworker, although I'm not familiar with the rates they can charge.

That's what I had to do. Had to break out a load of concrete to get access though, which is why I was looking for a short cut. Decided to do it properly though

Sensible deviations should be allowed, per case, with the applicant paying the admin fees to review and resolve each case. Wheelie bins in a nice store at the head of the access to a property should be acceptable, vs ugly rows of bins being left permanently on display (to the detriment of the area). Homeowner can then transport refuse to the bin store at their inconvenience. On bin days you pull the bins out of the store to the kerbside. Simples. "Nick for president!!!!" I suggested a used golf buggy to my current client, with a trailer, for doing the 200m 'refuse runs'. Fleas come with the dog, with adverse sites, but the owner can decide if they are happy to accept the compromise and inconvenience (or build somewhere else!).

For a current new build I'm consulting on, 200m driveway, the fire brigade said that they would simply lay down hoses to go up the drive, and reach the nearest hydrant in the lane. They are willing to provide a supporting statement, agreeing that the presence of an "Automatic Fire Suppression System" (Mist or sprinklers, mist in this case) mitigates the majority of their concerns. The client suggested a 45,000L holding pond, or even paying to extend the hydrant feed in the street onto their property (at cost) and the fire brigade remained pragmatic and agreed that simply laying out hoses would be 'the norm'; plus they'd likely dispatch a water bowser to arrive as a failsafe anyways. Start talking to these people and you may be pleasantly surprised.

Go for a mist system. Speak to the council and they're usually amenable, and will provide a solution for the bins.

John, the current setup works. We are comfortable the way the loops are and by adjusting flows to each. I am only interested in whether I can remove or bypass the buffer tank and rely on the heating pump in the outdoor unit to continue to make the water flow through the UFH.

@SimonD, is there anything else you are seeking information about? A bit more below. FYI the heat pump is about 3m from the plant room (LGF where the manifold is), connected by 28mm insulated pipework. The UVC (250l) is in the plant room. Motorised valve switches between heating and DHW. Heating flow goes to the buffer tank (50l), then a pump on the flow to the two manifolds. These have no mixing valves or secondary pumps. All heating pipework is 28mm copper in the plant room, all insulated. About 10m of this on flow and return to furthest (UGF) manifold

£280 per man

I could have asked, but you posted an image that stated 1/2", so would have been a wasted question. But as your using 16mm, all is good. But your loops are really only designed to fit the space, not to match the room heat loss. The loops per room, should be matched to heat loss. Balancing is possible with manipulation of flow rates through each loop, but there is a limited effect, if your circulation pump modulates.

Thanks Nick. Builder thinks we need to put some footings in .

I know you are trying to be helpful on here. There are perhaps better ways of wording some of things you post. e.g. you could have asked what pipe size I used, and sought a better explanation for the pipe layout (which equally I could have provided a better explanation for up front)

Never meant to be aggressive.

Sometimes you comments come across a bit passive aggressive. UGF. Open plan to the left. Large single room to the right. A hall where the small blue loop is shown (but not fitted). A utility and cloakroom where the small read loop is shown (but not fitted). LGF. On the left each loop is a separate room. The 2 large loops to the right are a single room. All pipes are 16mm. No loop longer than 95m as laid.

Might be easiest to suck it and see by bypassing the accumulator with the flow pipe and replacing the scondary pump with a straight section of pipe. Avoid sharp bends/elbows in the accumulator bypass!

All I can say is they are pretty pictures. But unless both spaces are fully open plan, there is zero design work going on. Pipe sizes is questionable. 1/2" pipe isn't really suitable, you should be using 16mm. Your loop length can be around 100m, so the smaller loops can be deleted and incorporated into other loops if you wanted. For info I am doing 7 loops in total for the same heat load.

Lost track of websites visited, videos watched. Glad I asked here

It’d be brighter with windows on 3 aspects wouldn’t it?

As @Mr Punter said