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Sorry but I don't understand the question? Are you telling me it has to be SS? The reason I have looked at the one pictured was that I don't see how to use those ties when the brick wall is already in place. But maybe they can be bent and drilled out to work? BCO didn't seem to like the idea of any timber touching the external wall (on the "external" side of the VCL), but yea it looks like the window board is going to have to be part of the stud wall structure/fixture.

Depends how you do it. The first study (paid for by the tax payer) was with Peterhead power station. The whole flue gas was captured. It was compressed and catalytic broken down, to hydrogen and few other products, the waste product re-compressed and injected subsea offshore.

Agreed. Reduction is the first step. But when we can't reduce much more, offset and capture will help stabilise.

That was what I was toying with.

The res bars are good call. Easy to fit as well.

Happy Days. Made2Measure (link in JohnMo's message above) has wood connection certification with M8/80mm long at 200mm spacing (400mm with no wind loading) using Fisher FPF-WT YZP (https://www.fischer.co.uk/en-gb/products/screws/wood-construction-screw-powerfast/powerfast-fpf-wt-zpp)

I have no experience of them but if they are a decent fabricator and you have seen their installations then why not?

Certification/Accreditation only mentions concrete and steel. I have messaged them about fixing to the glulam beam.

Thanks all for these replies. I will check how level the joists are to decide whether I need to batten or use resilient bars, and I will give bashing one of them a go to see whether I can reduce the difference enough to just PB straight onto them.

In a low temp system I'd guess not. My planning around this is to aim to not worry about kitchen cabinets etc. Seems like extra effort to try and route around things and in the event the layout is changed in future might you end up with an area of floor that is a touch cooler than others (I can't see it affecting room temp but might be noticable with feet on the floor).

I'm thinking idiot resistant ( not idiot proof, that's impossible). Simple pattern to lay. Single zone. Run at a low flow temp. Would it actually make any difference to the feel of the house avoiding walls beds, kitchen cabinets etc etc.

I did similar but at 300mm centres, just didn't pipe under internal walls, kitchen units or beds and only did 100mm concrete.

Ok..... Having a brainwave here .......it's hurting......there's blood coming out my ears.............. Take a well insulated house with an ASHP. Lay UFH at 200mm centres Don't bother with room by room patterns. Just slap it down in a big up and down pattern or whatever. Pour 150mm of concrete over the top and then ensure no one drills more than 75mm into the concrete. And after than go to town with room layout etc. "Trim" heat the bathrooms with direct electric to make warmer if needed. Any reason this wouldn't work?

This manufacturer has guidance for fixing their channels in various conditions https://posiglaze.co.uk/

Yup, I had 26mm mlcp coming from the UVC inexplicably via a manifold to the kitchen tap. It took about a minute and 9-10 litres of water to get warm at the tap. Solved (9-10secs) and about 1l of water to do the same thing with 10mm Hep2O. I should really have put the UVC closer to the kitchen.

Thanks, I shall take a look

Acoustic rail / resilient bar is useful in stopping vibrations carrying through I once had a roll of a bitumen sort of sheet with lead trapped within. It was made for medical aprons to stop x-rays. Very heavy but also flexible, and I used it on a party wall , hung loose behind the plasterboard, to great effect. It isn't available and would be crazily expensive, but some other heavyish loose material could be used. thick polyethene etc.

37 gigatonnes of CO2 produced in 2022. Relying on plant growth is not going to cut it.

The concept was effective because it did not rely on transport, something that makes a large amount of 'green' systems, not very. Carbon was deposited on site, whole system was floating (inflated so sections were easily transported and assembled) and powered by solar. Out of sight of anyone who would complain too. Couldn't see a downside other than the cost of setup and occasional maintenance (if I remember right, a sweeping arm collected the algae and scraped it onto the edge where it was dried using sunlight and then sent to the deep blue.) I wish I knew when and where id seen it so I could find it the actual numbers of tonnes collected per year.

Thanks @Oz07, there wont be a skirting board along this side, and the joists run perpendicular to the gap. I could run a circular saw down the gap and cut off the "tongue" of the chipboard flooring, then use a 35mmx22mm strip of wood to fill I guess.

Why not make something self supporting and not touch the walls at all, something like this, but make it nice and solid

Carbon capture via trees only works if we don't burn the trees afterwards. Locking the timber up in building materials is good but ultimately the destiny of most wood is to burn or rot. Think of how many tons of trees used to cover the UK 300 years ago, and how much of that timber is still around in buildings, ships and furniture.... Not much.

Regarding your large dT What is your room temp and what is your floor surface temp. Depending on your levels of insulation /Air exchange the difference between your room temp and floor surface temp will vary. For example my old place was well insulated. For a 22C inside air temp I only needed my slab to be 24C or so when it was 5C outside. Of it was below zero I might need a floor temperature of 25C. The floor temp is usually fairly close to your return temp, as long as you have a decent floor surface. If you habe carpet, thick wood, rugs it may be lower. The goal is to get your floor slab to the correct temperature to keep your house comfortable in the current conditions. Once that is reached you heating system only needs to put in the heat you are losing. It looks like you were getting to the right return temp when you stopped. The second thing is your long loop will probably need a higher flow rate to achive the power output at a smaller dT. If it is most of the ground floor you might need to put out a kw or two of heat. That requires a fairly substantial flown rate at dt5. It may be you are hitting the flow rate limit of a 15mm pipe (which is roughly what an ufh pipe is) so thr dT needs to be larger to put the power out.

The trouble with that, is the long delay in room temp dropping and floor warming enough to recover room temperature - especially on a low temp thick screed system. But it is strange that a self learning linear actuator doesn't exist for UFH. Self balancing exist, but they don't do what you describe, they just change flow rate to maintain dT, not room temperature.

maybe sell credits? It could be deposited in empty coal mines which would be a bit like full circle. It is remarkable how little substance is in the branches and foliage. When I cut the hedge or prune the shrubs I put sticks through a grinder and smaller stuff piled on the ground and put the mower over it. What would have been 5 or 6 brown bins become half of one, even though it is still uncompressed, goes on the compost heap and is compost in 6 months...which rots and we are full circle ..again.