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yep, that is the "bucket" that makes the gully a trap.

I would suggest, under steady state running, get the flow/return dT to less than 20C, say 18C, assuming the target & flow temps are equal, take readings, then slowly decrease the pump speed, (you can use your max clamping method to achieve this), the dT will keep rising, see if the flowtemp starts to exceed the target temp as the dT increases, keep reducing the pump speed until the flowtemp exceeds the target temp by 5.5C (trip point?), note all readings. Before doing, (if) I would increase the anti cycle time to 5/6 minutes again.

OP states this is a ‘new block of flats’. If this ‘new build’ then surely all design, method statements, competencies etc, etc should be sorted. Not the sort of question to be thrown out to a load of strangers on the internet.

I dont know if they still do it but when we built our place we used Chelmer Heating who did a design and supply for self installation. 18 years later its still working fine.

Previous late 90's house has had 40MM pipe running along in boxing that I'd quite like to remove in my bathroom refit if it's feasible and do a wall hung basin. Existing mains feed spurs off existing 22mm pipe directly up through the floorboards, I planned on spurring off this 22mm direct into the Stud wall. Waste outlet hole is 40mm to the soil stack. I plan on extending enough 40mm for the bath drainage and then for the sink basin I thought I'd be able to go 32mm from sink to 40mm and run this through the stud but reviewing a few posts it doesn't sound possible to put the pipe through Metal stud (Needing to drill for holes) and also will mean sound issues? (It will be 20/30mm Tileback to front. The fall is another challenge, the wall width is approximately 1500mm. Am I right/wrong on this and does anyone have advice on this ? Boxing would be possible but clutter this room big time so I'd really like to avoid this if I can sensibly and easily.

>>> Ask loads of questions, we will give the same amount of answers Actually, we’ll give six different, sometimes mutually opposing, opinions for each question. 😉

+1 Yeah suggest you must have an SE look at this and do some calcs & designs. A useful check would be the weight of the windows that were being removed plus details of how they’re fixed and how the openings are presently supported. If you’re not modifying the existing apertures, the new supports, if required, may also reduce the window size allowed by a bit.

I would sit them on a precast sill on the outer leaf. Preferably one with no more than a 25mm upstand for thermal bridging. Plenty of flexible sealant for the brickwork to window connection. Strap and tape the window to the inner leaf for security and efficiency purposes

Thus far the count is exactly precisely zero since inredid my new build with Hep2O. 4 years is a drop in the ocean though. I'm still living with both excellent and average decisions from 1950-1960 on the farm from my grandfather. I reckon you could plumb a house for 100 years+ if you were clever. Imagine the satisfaction from the afterlife when your great great grandsprog says under his/her/it's/their breath: "Wasn't great old grand Nick a clever C*nt." Floor drains with U bends that take a basin or shower in the side are more robust than airless traps in my opinion. Merry spannering.

With the two spigots on the inside?

Stick your hand down it and yank out that black thing, I think it comes out.

Or a dry trap? One or the other sounds contradiction, or your client has money to waste🤔

Please mark on the calendar, each year from now until the next house, just how many times you needed the floor drains. Then realise why nobody in the UK fits them. . FWIW I am specifying a plant room with all plumbing in, with a new insulated raft, and I am going to recess the slab by 25mm in there and add a drain (sump), plus I am going to spec Fermacel and then tank it and the slab. In the event of anything 'wet' giving up in the plant room, the water will just disappear 'down the plughole'. The issue is, keeping these drain populated with water so the stink doesn't rise from the sewer, or worse (vermin etc). I'll install a gulley with throughput, so the constant use of the washing machine or utility sink replenishes the body of water in the trap.

Replacement riser rail kits are cheap enough, and if you buy one that's too long, you can cut the pole down to match the screw holes in the tiles. Done this a hundred times or more in rentals etc.

Where is your structural design? Should be zero need for such questions, if your building is designed.

So is your heat pump oversized to allow this?

How much would the same surface area of brickwork weigh? .... At some point a structural engineer would have signed off if the designs? No?

I think they do, you lose flow rate I think! I'm not an expert, but you can't beat seperate hot and cold taps on their own, but then have the faffage of adjusting temperature. Fwiw the aqualiser customer support is outstanding.

To get best energy efficiency you'll want to use weather compensation, so you set a curve of flow temperature for given outdoor temperature. Perhaps 35 or more on vary coldest days tapering down to around 20 when the outdoor temperature approaches 20. The only downside of running a very low flow temperature is risk of the heat pump short cycling, which reduces its efficiency greatly, but a large ufh area makes this very unlikely so long as most looops remain open.

It's controlled by Loxone with load and weather compensation, but during periods of very cheap energy i push right down the turn on threshold, bump up target temperature very slightly, and boost the curve based on the difference between the floor slab temperature and target temperature Means i can squeeze out a day's heating demand in about 4 hours operation. The DHW schedule is a bit more hard coded as I want that to happen last thing during the cheap rate block

Do water pressures differ between what a Waste bath fillers has and normal spouts?

Yes, I am worried for the weight on Brick work after installation of such a heavy windows. thanks

Yes, I am worried for the weight on Brick work after installation of such a heavy windows. thanks

Hire in some dehumidifers for a few days and keep the windows and doors shut while they are running. Not a big expense in the scheme of things.

Henry. With dust bags. Site stalwart. outlasts most “superior” brands. not exactly class M filtration though….