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Not Roger, but pay-as-bid is one leading proposal. In other words, if providers A, B and C offer their electricity at £60, £80, and £200 per MWh then, if they are chosen, pay them £60, £80, and £200, rather than paying all of them £200.

I think that was @DannyT restricted to 350mm. Maybe OP is too. I would just do a 200mm cavity with stainless ties and 036 batts. Should be able to pick them up for £15/m2 for 2 x 100mm. Or 175mm and EPS bonded beads.

Wishful thinking I’m afraid. Water based ‘gloss’ is very good, apply one coat AM, and another PM, and you’re pretty much done. Are you painting before fitting, or are they all fitted already?

Is it that Panasonic are not being helpful for him or for you? So far my experience of Panasonic tech (I'm a Panasonic pro installer too) has been very good, and when I needed an extra push for some assistance, my rep was amazing and followed through on all promises. So I'm a bit surprised to hear this. The problem is that we really need to know more details about the design issues and what they're referring to as much more power, which will depend on the design parameters too.

It really depends on your budget. Stiebel Eltron, and Nibe both do heating and cooling and are very nice units. Viessmann currently requires an indoor unit, but also very nice and some of the best controls in the business. My Viessmann rep told me there is a monobloc coming, probably in the Autumn. Panasonic also do some nice units with cooling and these can be paired with their fan coils. And as you've listed, Vaillant. I think Vaillant is probably the cheapest on this list, but there may be a Panasonic about the same price. Most people like and choose Vaillant because of the standards of support available. Daikin also do cooling but I don't know much about them as I'm not an installer for Daikin and haven't had their training.

Yeah, seems like a 10p resistor they charge £300 😬

It'll be pumped, will 15mm make much difference?

We have primed white MDF skirting boards and architrave throughout our new build. I don't enjoy painting - has anyone come across paint which will cover primed MDF in just one coat of white paint? Thanks

Be careful as it doesn't do cooling out the box, without a widget being added. Most will take a zero volt switch permissive to ask for heat/cool. If you want to do dew point control, plenty of simple thermostats will do do control for cooling, a Computherm Q20RF has everything built in for £65.

@Pocster How desperate are you?

So, now that lovely discussion is out the way. Anyone got recommendations for a 5kw pump that does heating and cooling? Obvious candidates are Viessman and Valiant but I know nother about HP manufacturers really. Only requirements other than heating and cooling is integrated into Home assistant so I can keep the cooling point above the dew point, and (probably separately) do weather comp for heating. Plan is a simple open system, no zoning, have enough water volume to not need a buffer, and have bug enough pipework for dt5 flow rates.

Why are you trying so hard to make the discussion so unpleasant and personal John? All I've done is quoted what you've said and reasonably replied and questioned it, and asked you for some data. It's just very curious.

You're obviously had a bad day and need to get your own way.

@Roger440 re: They could have completely de-linked it. You have a scheme for that? My understanding is that it's the gas-driven 'peakers' that provide power when everyone else is at max output (or offline) - hence it revolves around the price of gas.

Ive found it great. You can send a sample off and they will match it for you too. If you are exposed, you might want to add some pozzlan, but given you loction, i guess that doesnt apply?

As above, this isnt the great breakthrough that we both know is actually required. Essentially being seen to do "something" whilst allowing business as usual.

Indeed. and if they think its good, you can 100% sure, its not good for the consumer. And it isnt.

In other words, no meaningful change. Just a few %. That not much more than background noise. They could have completely de-linked it. They still choose not to. This is another classic case of the PR and reality being worlds apart. And they choose not to, as too much money is being made.

It's a shame there isn't more granularity, but definitely interesting to look at the behaviour of the system and charts.

This just gets weirder and weirder, as it seems you're trying to prove a pointless point, so probably not even worth engaging in further discussion. However.. Sorry for confirming what I said? So in @jack's case, I can presume that the UFH works well to keep the upstairs warm in winter, but from the charts, shows it has no effect on upstairs for cooling and as he says 'unsurprisingly.' This demonstrates it isn't a whole house cooling strategy, even if it does provide comfort downstairs. Forgive me if I'm wrong @jack? Like I think I've said a couple of times in this thread, cooling is difficult to define, and must be defined and quantified as well as it can be so everyone is on the same page. It's fundamentals like cooling what (how big), by how much, for how long, etc. that need to be determined, understood and agreed at the outset, even in a short conversation like this. And then being explicit about the system parameters used to achieve the aims. In your instance for example, we don't know what kind of heat input your system is dealing with when you make your claims, is outdoor temperature at 21, 23, 29, or even 32C, what are the heat gains such as through windows or elsewhere. What temperature are you seeking indoors? When does your house actually start needing the active cooling input for your comfort? What actual kW heat transfer is your system able to deal with during cooling? What time periods are you running? I think cooling design is just as much of a heat loss & design task as heating. Which is why I asked for data, as on the data, I'm very happy to change my views, which are not based on 'my' theory but standards, calculations, and some knowledge from the wider industry. Views and passive cooling are not mutually exclusive, and my comments about passive cooling are not a criticism of your design decisions. I add in my comments about this as I hope it helps self-builders in the early stages consider heat gain and how to deal with it in the early phase as there have been plenty of threads over the years where this has caught people out, and following completion have struggled with over-heating.

I know. We have decided some BC don't seem to take notice of the major things but nit pick!

Others will be along soon and tell you I don't know what I'm talking about. But having had UFH cooling for a few years plus a fan coil. I do have some actual experience. I would look for simple install, fan coils will compensate for over sizing by varying it's fan speed down (good, less drafts, less noise etc). So size fan coils for heating and then actually install one size bigger ones to allow for cooling. Then operate the system as a single zone on a single flow temp in cooling (16-17 degs) and WC for heating. This may not be perfect, but will give you a comfortable house year round and good performance (CoP and EER).

Hi all, just joined up. I'm about a zillion years into a 19th C Methodist chapel conversion. All the big stuff was done ages ago and I've loaned my mixer out to a bloke up the road. All the old dried up solid bags of OP and lime have been binned for a while. I've just changed a 1st storey window and need to point up round the frame where it meets the old Norfolk red/Suffolk white bricks. Way back in the day I spent weeks doing trial mixes with mortar to get a match on the original lime mortar, but that was when I was laying bricks too. I just need literally a shovel full or so of mortar, if that, so I wondered what the modern premixed stuff was like? I'd be very interested to hear what people might have to say/suggest/recommend/warn about! Thanks in advance - I've attached a couple of snaps to paint the picture. Cheers, Geoff

Sorry for applying real life experience of cooling v your theory. Room temp down 3 degs is huge for comfort, plus the actual house temp feels way cooler than that, as @jack says more like going into a cave. Passive design is best, but I actually prefer the views, so some active cooling is needed, plenty of solar pays the bills.

Have you had room by room heat loss calculations done yet. That is the key part. The reason that you may need a bigger cooling load is because of outside air temperatures. In winter, most of the time, you will need a temperature difference of about 12°C (8°C outside, 20°C inside). Summer it may be 15°C delta (30°C outside, 20°C inside, or lower the n bedrooms). You then have to add on the solar gain, which when the sun is lower in the sky, can still be 600W/m² through the windows. It is possible to set up a UFH/FC system to run as one zone, with just the airflow through the fancoil units being modulated, though this may get noisy in the bedrooms. The heat loss calculation is the important thing to get to grips with first, that will tell you what is needed.