All Activity

https://www.themetalstore.co.uk/products/tube-clamp-uk-suppliers used to be better than metals4u for this sort of stuff. Might have changed recently have not checked. * Not a recommendation never used either, just spent way too long browsing these sorts of companies working out how much it would cost to build ideas.

Sometimes, though I doubt this counts. There are plenty of places that do things like this and have done for decades. See stories about them from time to time. Not necessarily in this country though. An installer wanting a simple life can think of a myriad of reasons not to do something I'm sure. Takes a client/specifier who wants an holistic approach and is will to push for it/pay a premium for it to get there. In a situation where there was scope to experiment with low risk/cost, maybe this farm example is a good one, you could do the following. Get a couple of scrapped but good car radiators. Connect them via pipe + circulating pump. Put one in front of the warm exhaust and the other in front of the cold intake and measure the energy of both systems. Assuming the exhaust is 20+C warmer than ambient expect that would lead to a decent efficiency gain. Likely cost of a couple of hundred quid and some time. If it works, wire the pump to only run when there is heat demand.

Hi folks Any advice on where to get 15mm plastic corner bead in Norther Ireland, at a good price? Seems that it can be got online for around £1 per m, but of course no one delivers to NI. The best price I have so far locally is £1.55 per m. I've quite a bit to buy so it makes a difference. Thanks

I've just come across suppliers of tube and plate and fixings at very good prices. metals4U sort of names. Google it. Better than going through ebay I'd think. eg I wanted a pair of steel plates cut to length 4.6m long. They arrived in 2 days for about £15 delivery ( obv not by Evri). So your poles could all be precut to length by them and you know the fixings will be compatible.

I wouldn't bother with the MVHR unit you propose but install one of these in you kitchen, utility and bathrooms https://ebay.us/m/ROuJpj If your dry room windows have trickle vents replace with these https://www.shop24glasgow.co.uk/en/search?controller=search&s=AERECO If they don't have install something like this https://www.heatrecoverydirect.com/products/s-p-em-hy-humidity-controlled-air-inlet-install-100mm?variant=49866952540487&country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22034401125&gbraid=0AAAAApOCirjcUNbeNqKiRFAf35BF6ArLV&gclid=CjwKCAjw687NBhB4EiwAQ645dsrORFKnBkTQ2Q9IRY8v-_DuJgE6HbJuPLAFz-T3LlMUipNQsgvICRoCNUwQAvD_BwE Then you will a humidity sensing ventilation system

I think a back draft damper/non return valve is quite normal for extractors as it will open when the air is pulled down and close when off? from what our architect explained the MVHR venti fluxo stops heat loss, again its quite technical to me but have a look at the venti fluxo website. its expensive but apparently a very good piece of kit, i still dont quite understand it!

In most new buildings too. It's just worth the exercise to see if the numbers feel compatible with your issue. I've got a pair of 100m tapes for this purpose. Where the right numbers cross, I drop a brick on the ground. I can use hitech stuff but this works better and doesn't need calibrating. Later in the construction the same tapes remain ideal but the brick becomes too approximate and is surplus.

sometimes the non-expert ( you and me in this case) have ground-breaking ideas... BH is very good for getting these ideas tested / debunked. The issue perhaps is that they want the coolant air, which is quite warm, to disappear asap, whereas you want it to be enclosed somewhat so you can draw on it.

I'm converting an old brick barn. The original walls are all over the place. I have built a new inner leaf following the best line I could. Everything is a work around By the time i've stuck insulation under the rafters I won't see any evidence of rafter adjustments. Would a shim cut from the C16 wall plate offcuts be sufficient? Just cut them to the width of the rafter and glue & nail underneath the seat? I'll check, but the odds are against square.

Hadn't thought of that. yes we should do that. It will restrict flow to some extent but we must try. But it would be best if the appliance has an automatic shutter, which is what I meant in your second query. No, in terms of having a draughty hole in the room. Wow. You won't get much kit for that. Is that simply a fan unit with heat exchanger and no ducting? Ive seen them and expect that the expelled air is drawn straight back in and the intake air is sucked straight back out.

This seems like such an easy win, at least if the things are relatively close in the first place.

When the timber is completely dry the mould will die or at least sleep for ever. No water means no rot. However, there are hot and cold pipes in the same space so there will be condensation. The pipes should be insulated. BUT the plasterboard has to be changed and you have this half done already so probably best to replace the timber, using preservative treated, and insulate the pipes.

do you have a backdraft damper/non return valve on the opening on the outside wall? i'm not sure what you mean by this? is this in terms of regs or aesthetic? cost level of MVHR? I think 434.50 plus VAT - https://www.venti-group.com/product/fluxo-mvhr/ I'm not sure on the builder cost as the breakdown doesnt include the install of this separately on its own. i can ask him when we get to that point but it may be a while off, re messages above it seems MVHR isn't suitable, unless your house is a newer build or sealed tight?

I have asked several heating companies over the years why they don't harness the cooling emissions form chill-stores. They say it is a very inefficient process. I'm more inclined to think they'd much rather put in a chilling system for the factory/warehouse and a separate office heating system than do anything complex. Or their suppliers simply don't have the technology. Can't they at least have the heat pumps for the heating system close to those for the cooling systems? Apparently not.

Update. The big outlet pipes for the island hob fan are in, and laid to a gradient on eps. There is a very noticeable draught at the pipe , even though the building is a long way from enclosed. I was surprised at the amount of airflow but assume that the very strong wind is causing this. I have asked the family members who researched the hob, if the appliance is shuttered when not in use, or an always-open duct with a fan in it. We don't know. An 8" hole in the wall would not be acceptable , but that is effectively what this is. I've suggested we put an offcut of plasterboard over the hob when not in use.... apparently that wont be aceptable. OTOH are standard cooker hoods also open to the outdoors? I think so. Re the stove. The Steading (complete) has an ultra modern wbs, with direct air feed. It burns incredibly efficiently and there is no suggestion of smoke ever coming into the room rather than up the flue, or of any air leaks trough the door. I think you don't have to worry about interaction at all. And I doubt that mvhr is appropriate either, based on the info provided. Do you mind saying the cost level? to that add for some builders' work in getting the ducts around the place.

this is another 15mm plastic hep2 o with a brass fitting to go into compression fittings. various reducers are available. it’s all of the shelf stuff. you either have stupid or lazy plumbers.

Something along these lines. Front will be around 500mm high and the back will be around 2000mm high (whatever to give 45-50 deg angle). There will be two diagonals on the rear uprights for bracing.

these fittings are also available so you can go plastic into your brass shower valve.

I'd be very worried about the floor if that's chipboard flooring - soaks up water very well and once it dries out has the strength of a soggy wheatabix or digestive biscuit!!!! I'd be considering claiming on house insurance and getting it done properly

Yes, that's right. Also, I can see there's another mistake made when installing those plastic fittings. It looks to me like the plumber used Speedfit pipe and fittings and there should be a collet in the groove on the fitting. The collet is there to prevent the fitting from unscrewing by vibration and is a good check that the fitting has been installed correctly.

Do you mean attach copper pipe in the bit marked with arrow in picture?

ah this makes sense, again another minefield, i find it highly amusing/frustrating that we have been specified PIR and strong insulation in order to reach a certain U value, yet you walk a couple metres and the existing house doesnt have it, although i suppose its a good practise to move existing houses to being more efficient, but as you say, the MVHR is clearly overkill even with having a log burner and extractor fan. I think I'm reading it right!?

Then try to find some cheap heating oil.

Oh, also, something else I learned on Buildhub from @Dan1983 is Astragal bars which are decorative, surface-mounted strips applied to both the inside and outside of double or triple-glazed window panes to create the authentic, subdivided appearance of traditional small-paned Georgian windows. They might be useful for your situation, given your original images.

Take a look at https://historicengland.org.uk/images-books/publications/adapting-historic-buildings-energy-carbon-efficiency-advice-note-18/ released in February 2026. I also recently learned about vacuum double glazing when I was looking at similar issues on listed buildings. Might be of interest if you can't get approval for standard double glazing. https://www.vacuumglazing.co.uk/landvac-enhance-heritage-vacuum-glazing/