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If you double the diameter of a circle, you quadruple the area. I have often wondered, if cooling (or heating) are marginally small most of the year, if enough flow can be passed though larger MVHR pipework. Just a case of doing the sums and seeing if larger pipework can be fitted in.

I posted a while back, outlining the contractor did not build our front canopy to the architectural drawings. Due to scaffolding around the house we missed this too until it was too late. Photos are attached to that post. The contractor says they will come back and add a drip bead around the perimeter. The Architect/CA, who also missed this despite numerous site visits, has outlined that the render addition will not blend and will discolour over time. This does not sound ideal. What is the possible solution here? how do we disguise the ugly flashing they added as an afterthought? and allow water to run away? It could be that we end up with something worse than we have now.

Next Question Flooring area P/A specifically House is a stupid T shape (I have mentioned this in threads before) it was L shaped originally but we added an extension to the rear of the house in 2006 Do I treat the floor area as two rectangles or work out the floor area and enter it as a "square" size that meets the area?

Thank you all for the wonderful replies and lots of interesting information. Some people picked up on the fact that I do want the best of both worlds, which is accurate. I guess what I was looking for is justification to help me pull the trigger on MVHR based on actual experiences. I will be blunt here and everyone I've spoken to including friends and family who've built new, done major renovations and retrofits - none of them have anything good or bad to say about the MVHR apart from the price. But they do at least say that they wouldn't change their decision to put the system in, so I guess it is one of those things that once you experience it - hard to go back to being without it. So on that track, I think I will stick with my original decision and go with the MVHR. And then plumb in for the Aircon system for the actual internal/external units to be added in a couple of years time.

Some councillors don't do any work. So it is deadline time. A lawyer will usually write a letter giving notice for free or cheap, as it is easy. Or you write first... a letter by recorded delivery.... 2 weeks or else. I don't know what is next though.. an ombudsman? It will say in the council website. They will visit immediately.

Have you submitted your completion certificate?

thought around moving bathroom was mainly just more privacy rather than being central with every room around it. but maybe i just need to accept if its already in the best space.

I've exchanged emails with my local councillor several times now but as of yet, nothing has come from it. They said they would raise the issue but I don't know if they have or haven't. If they have, maybe the person whose desk it landed on in building control just pressed the delete button. My emails to building control are now just ignored, nobody responds.

Why do you want to move the bathroom to a corner, will need a corridor and take up window space on the front and rear aspects. Bathrooms are in the best place IMO, create a utility in the back of the garage.

Is the blockwork already built up on the rake? If not you can nail it beforehand. Otherwise tosh one through top and bottom, not ideal. I've never really thought about nail position just do what looks right. A nail wants to be 2/3 into the back 1/3 into the front usually so just work on that principle. Obviously you dont want it near the thin cut edge it won't be doing anything. You want quite a lot of meat.

I would leave bathrooms where they are, keeping living and bedrooms as separate areas. Moving a bathroom sound lots of work for little gain or loss of convenience. Then form a kitchen/diner, robbing some space for utility

The boiler runs at 50, the return temp gets to 40 ish before it hits the cycle. I was planning on using a valve on the bathroom bypass to control the bathroom UF. I have another bypass rad in the hall which is always open.

hi, I'm looking for some advice on our bungalow layout. I am looking to move the bathroom so its not central to the house....moving it to one of the corners of the house is what I am thinking. any thoughts on how to make this happen would be appreciated. additionally, fitting a utility somewhere. any insights/thoughts appreciated

I've never had to nail this type of timber connection. I don't want to make a mess of it. How far from the feathered edge should the nails be? Half way up the length of the cheek cut or more toward the uncut part of the timber? The valley rafter is a doubled up 44x142. It will need a long nail to go from the back 😯

We have Dryvit render to the frames. I have applied Soudaseal 215 LM Premium Hybrid Sealant over the join.

😁

Yes, very weird!! Boiler fires, upstairs rads get hot and we have hot water (vented hwc) Zone valve was one of the first things I suspected, all seems to move as it should (only changed it about a year ago) I've now removed the whole pump set. Pump looks ok internally, no sludge or other evidence of potential blockages. All passageways in the mixing valve block also clear. All waterways have a nice smooth finish. As the only moving part within the valve block I have ordered a replacement valve insert as I cannot see what else it could be.

We’re all guessing ; but there are indicators . You guess that m5 256gb were ordered last year - no evidence of that . There is a ram shortage . m3 ultra/ m4 mini at end of manufacture unified memory is to some extent is built to order wwdc when ultra m5 supposedly released we will see . No ram shortage effecting apple then no issues with delays . Limited large memory bins and delivery slips to months and then “ not available “ - clearly ram shortage having an impact . My guess is that will happen . So I’ll play pessimistic rather than ram shortage doesn’t really affect Apple .

You have a sense of humour, I'll give you that.

Our K Rend is applied on on our block walls up to the window frame. Which is fine. What is best practice for the (in most places hairline) crack at the join between frame and render? Leave it or run a bead of silicone over it?

Can I add, I really appreciate comments & advice here. It's all taken on board and I'm always learning. I realise many of you are specialists in certain areas and some have vastly more experience of new build. However, this isn't our 'first rodeo' we've built 2 before so do have reasonable understanding but, it's our first one using an insulated raft & icf so plenty to learn & understand on that level. Apologies if my questions may come across a bit 'novice like' I'm a bit of a belt and braces person so, when I ask its not necessarily that I've no idea, (though sometimes it is the case!) it's just my way of cross checking my thinking/understanding!

Your house should have been designed to never form mold. F&B is popular for period houses so I imagine that is why they are cautious. Similarly I personnally would not worry about moisture affecting paint in a kitchen, i've just checked my kitchen smart thermostat (current 100+ yr old house, average to poor extractor over hob) and the humidity only changes a few percent during cooking.

Yes, we're installing a new STP so not too fixed with invert level. My original Q was really whether we had any issues with starting depth under the raft - whether there was a minimum we needed to adhere to. From the answers of others (including yourself Nick - many thanks) it looks like there's no set minimum.

Because this is an implementation of the CIBSE reduced method, these are really the only choices for this particular version. However, when I get the full BS EN 12831:2017 method tested and run, there will be full freedom for proper and complete fabric inputs for the calcs. The CIBSE method covers pretty much 90% of projects we see, which is why I went for the quicker win to begin with. The tool will still give you a pretty good result right now as fundamentally this gives you a conservative result as that's what all the methods tend to do. However, to get around this now, you can select the tab to the right of SAP Estimate and select the Measured/Tested air permeability and then add your SAP design figures, that completely gets around the problem and is the better approach right now.

To answer your original question, you need to work from the invert of the sewer back to the house, unless you're on a STP?