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What is, making chlorine or preventing it being made?

Sounds like it needs (or would benefit from) a ‘backdrop’ chamber? As above, get a (good) groundworker in and get a professional opinion. When they suggest a solution, then go to the BCO and ask if that satisfies their expectations.

It is routinely for offshore rig and ships, it uses plastic and titanium components.

Indeed! My only reservation about AB is I think they need to up their game here, in terms of looking more meticulously at what potential damage could be done and to mitigate against it before doing the treatment. For eg, on the job I posted about here recently, the underbelly of the MVHR unit had 2 open ports and I hadn’t yet connected the condensate, so these were ports where air would have flooded in, gone right through the unit internals, and out through the 2 roof vents. That would have been catastrophic imho. I think they need to have a checklist for any time they attend partially completed projects, to seek and identify these types of things. Possibly a pre-visit email stating where these possible leaks / faux pas may exist and asking the client to prepare these accordingly, ahead of their visit. I'm seriously impressed with AeroBarrier, and I will be using them into the future with my new and future self build clientele, as it’s a very, very good system and the results were amazing. However, they do need to button this loose end up as it’s only my diligence (in putting 2 layers of duct tape over these MVHR ports) that stopped that unit from being (potentially) wrecked. I also blocked off every single room vent very robustly too, as obviously you cannot have any open MVHR ceiling terminals during this treatment. That’s my only criticism.

Chlorine can be produced from seawater quite easily with electrolysis.

Plastic inspection chambers are not designed for steep gradients so you may need to build one to suit. Talk to your groundworker and to BC. What depth is the pipe?

But not in a warm chlorine environment, still not good enough.

Top pic in my previous post was after washing the floor ready to prime it for tiling. middle pic was the day after it was laid.

That water is somehow being replaced every day. So it's either a very damp house (and a problem to sort) or fresh air in this very damp weather. I had this worry once. A concrete floor that the flooring contractor said was too wet.* We ran indsustrial dehumidifiers for 2 weeks, collecting several litres a day. Then we got a proper expert with a hhumidity measuring box stuck to the floor. It was fine so that water was simply coming from the air. * I learned then that this is a ruse to get out of the warranty. See also other discussions on BH about 1day per 1mm of slab for drying.

Grade A2 nuts and bolts, by the sea, end up like a Swiss cheese. A4 is what you want.

From what I've seen of heat exchanger construction it might completely block it.

If you’ve got MVHR and you’re going with AB then make sure you seal everything up, so the airborne sealant can’t get into it and exit through the unit internals to outside.

Yep

A bag on the red one should be the kiddy.

You’ll need it installed house wide, if you can’t then don’t. What is your as-built airtightness result?

Here's better pic with 6 pipes... Cicrles the pipes outside, green is central heating drain valve. So the red must be the Trv discharge? What I can do is tie a sandwich bag to this (preferably on a dry 24hours) then if it's wet inside it means?

I’ve given you contact details for one of the best screeders you’ll ever meet. Family run business, with dad having passed the baton to his sons. One of their previous projects was an £80m 8-storey mega house for a wealthy chap in London.

My mate (details have been shared with the op btw) did @Russell griffiths place, and I’ve used him for 25 years. When I say you can paint it green and play snooker on it, I’m not joking.

Youtube has some great resources on it.

This is my concern - by the time I find out they aren’t very good it will be too late. Hence I’m asking for references (some of them have little/no online reviews).

The reference to keying in was on a Cemflood liquid screed. The dry screed quote states that they provide the pump - I hadn’t realised that a dry screed would be pumped. Is this normal? (As you can tell, I’ve never seen it done and the only very small amounts of dry mix used so far have just been mixed in the mixer and then used straight away.

If. I believe it is a skill that is fairly rare.

That sounds OK, then. How about all the other 'potentially weak' areas (junctions, intersections and so on)? If you've been taping and sealing with a vengeance then you may be OK. I am not sure what you mean by: I think of dry-lining as a whole-wall treatment. Can you elaborate? You say the cavity wall is rendered. What is the internal wall 'treatment' - hard plaster, or dot-and-dab plasterboard? If the latter, is it 'true dot-and-dab', or full perimeter beads and cross-hatchings?