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Currently building one with them , very pleased with the build and the guys doing it we’re water tight now and will be completing the rest ourselves apart from plaster boarding

Warm white for us. I installed CCT strips under the shelves and cabinets to give flexibility but they’re set mostly at warm white. It’s not a professional kitchen and so the requirement for harsh light is negated.

Service cavity with battens for me every time. Would make mechanical fixing of the plasterboard simple. It’s what we did. Can’t imagine avoiding running cables on every external wall. I could guarantee I’d need a plug socket on them.

Or is it a case of lay the insulation and let the felt compress it if needed? No air gap needed? This is purely on the gable blockwork and ladders. The rest of the roof would have PIR between trusses and I'll ensure there is an air gap

ICF companies you approach will be able to give references and will, hopefully, have some in progress sites to visit.

Welcome, can’t help you with ICF but I am sure someone will be along in due course. If you search the forum, there are many who have done it.

With the block work being higher than planned, this stops me laying a 100mm rockwool over the blockwork as it would protrude past the top of the truss. If I'm correct, this would then cause an issue where the insulation touches the underside of the breathable felt and removed any air gap?

Well done OP, thanks for the update!

No, not mean at all because I have no idea what I am looking at and better leave it to the 'experts' although at this point I'm questioning if the 'experts' actually know anything....

Thank you for this, @Mike - decrement delay is an interesting topic and I considered different approaches when insulating. I'm lucky in that my south facing roof has thick stone tiles which absorb summer heat, but winters are very cold so I decided to instead maximise insulation in the space I had and went with 100mm PIR between rafters and 25mm below. One left-field idea: is there anything to stop me using 20mm wood fibre (rather than wood wool) boards as a plasterboard substitute? I could screw it with washers over the 25mm PIR, then clay plaster it. Very light, and I could get the best of both worlds: high insulation from the PIR and room moisture/thermal buffering from the wood fibre. I realise that you have advised not to worry about moisture with the ceiling, but at 15m2 I thought it might help with window condensation and smoothing out heating peaks and troughs if I can get it to act as a moisture/thermal buffer for the room.

That sounds like a great idea, @torre - I bought some stainless steel washers recently so if I could fit those instead then it would solve my problem. Only issue might be getting the built-in plastic disc off, as I haven't seen any plugs where the disc is separate, but I will keep looking. Thanks @Mike - if so then I could maybe countersink the discs into the insulation for a flat surface to stick the plasterboard on to. But would the foil face of the PIR come away under the pull of the plasterboard if using pu adhesive alone?

That might be more plausible were it not around 2⁰C just now.

No chlorine, so not really pool type water. Will monitor pH and drop and top as needed to that in check

Still no response from the council, don't let these M'F's intimidate you!

Good luck with that! I didn't think plate heat exchangers would last long when exposed to pool type water.

Holy sh*t, and what a noise, has he left a spanner in the pump?? I’m sorry I can’t help in any way, but do go in all guns blazing tomorrow.

No, but also not using any chemicals either, so no need for titanium heat exchanger. ASHP not connected yet. But when running, modulation down to 1kW should mean it just runs, so should never see the 14W on its own and should be accounted for in the running CoP.

Which schematic are you referring to. The only one I have is in the manual and looks to refer, as you say to a boiler based system. (Link: https://www.telford-group.com/download.php?file=VG9ybiBUZW1wIEluc3RhbGwgR3VpZGUgMjAyMy0yNDUucGRm) It does say controls provided must be used but I obviously cannot use the above circuits as I don't have; the programmer - that's in the heat pump, the three way valve operation - that's controlled by the heat pump, the pump - that's in the heat pump so I just used the dual stat to limit the immersion. The max output temperature of the heat pump is 75oC so it should not need any boosting as legionella should be gone with 30 minutes at 60oC. I cannot see anything in the manual for the heat pump about an inbuilt booster heater but it does have provision for what is called additional heating (5A@240V) as an external connection. (See image below) So I am using the dual stat to control the immersion (despite it being an intelligent one - which can do all kinds of things on its own. I could take the additional heating signal from the heat pump (terminal 1) and use that to drive, via an appropriate interface, the call for immersion signal discussed in the thread above but as far as I can see the heat pump manual makes no reference to the use of that signal other than as part of the commissioning check list and nothing to say this additional heat source should be controlled by the additional heating signal.

Getting a bit off-topic but what are you using as the heat exchanger between the tub water and the ASHP? Not great, not terrible. Is that with the ASHP plugged into the controls or just the controls?

Not sure it helps you much but we have warm pendants for ambience over the island and cool/cold ceiling and cupboard downlights for working. Somewhere there's a control to switch the warmth of cupboard lighting but we've never used it.

Honestly, there are too many types to say. Sometimes they have levers on, or "butterfly" handles, a slot for a screwdriver or sometimes thry are removable so there isn't much to see. Without wanting to sound mean, if you have to ask, you probably need to wait until tomorrow morning and get the engineer out. It wouldn't be the first time an engineer has left a Friday job forgetting to turn a critical bit of of equipment back on. Good luck.

It's just being repurposed - the 6kW unit will be used to heat 1700 litres of water (hot tub). Just been outside with dog, while I was waiting about I was feeling all the edges of the metal, everything seems nice and rounded off, nothing sharp at all. 90+kg to move about, that will be fun - not. Set up the controller this afternoon, only thing I can't do is load the WC curve, because the unit doesn't see the flow and return temps as no outdoor unit is connected. Had a look at the electrical draw The whole wiring centre and controller pulls a continuous 14W.

Second this. Prefinished premium conservation automated triple Keylite via Huws Gray was less than 1/3 my quoted Velux equivalent…

Unfortunately yes I do

My fear is that a gale would send those tiles to the next parish but I suppose it's not as windy where you are. A vent in the fire would be a good start. Others any rain or damp that finds its way in will never dry out.