All Activity

Green line path of 40mm pipe. red line possibly a running trap. blue lines the drain hose from WM & TD. everything unfortunately a lot tighter then I'd hope for due to the change from stacking to side by side.

Can we have even a crap drawing of what you propose please? 2 beers in atm, which is good for me, and I'm still lost.

While I agree that it is cheap, it has for the last 40 years or so been about 5% of household income, which is where it is at the moment. Back in 1990, I was paying 10p/kWh for electricity. So only doubled in last 35 years. My wage has gone up more.

Nope, it would just throw the breaker that the manufacturer installed to stop you from doing that. Then you reset stuff, after turning off the George Foreman Soufflé maker.

Originally intended to stack washing machine and dryer so had plenty of on wall to tee off to sink and a standpipe for WM & TD. This would have allowed a 700-800mm pipe including trap. However now the time has come to install, decision has been made to fit the appliances side by side. This has reduced the available space and now a seperate standpipe cannot be fitted. I've read the reason standpipe are around 700-800mm, is due to discharge rate and allow drainage should the rate be slowed down for whatever reason. If this is the case would it be ok to get that overall length of pipe, however have it at a 90° bend? Maybe use a swept bend rather then a tight 90°?

It is a natural cycle. Increase the amount of CO2 in the atmosphere and the global temperature will rise, well know science. Eventually all the stored carbon and hydrocarbons will be burnt and, apart from a small contribution from volcanoes and rotting vegetation (if any left), the temperature will start to slowly decrease. We are pretty certain we know how the Earth came out of the last ice age, but not seen too much research on how a planet cools from a CO2e rich atmosphere. Venus is not changing much. Though I doubt that is how your friend views it. Probably sees starving people in developing countries and thinks it is their own fault that crops have failed due to variable weather patterns, and if they were still a colony of ours then everything would be fine for them.

Totally agree, I suppose you can’t really show off low energy bills and great IAQ 😂 the lady I was on about doesn’t believe in climate change, she tells me that it’s a natural cycle, but I suspect a lot of it comes from her favourite TV channel, GB News

I rate the Naim Muso and Muso Qb. They sound exceptional and they play together very nicely. They also cost a bucket load. The Muso Qb is the entry level and quite brilliant to my ears.

Butt welded:

what ones do you rate? thinking about how to get audio into a different part of the house and figured actual cable was a bit out dated and a hassle.

I see what you did there. Good one! 😂

That is a new and very introspective version of range anxiety - I salute you!

Just to expand on this (and give a real life example) I upgraded all my upstairs rads from T11 to T22 in order to run lower flow temps from a gas boiler As soon as we hit the heating season proper I had a nightmare with upstairs overheating and downstairs being not warm enough - so I throttled back the flow thro the upstairs rads - this had a big downside I effectively shrunk the avaliable circuit and had short cycling issues burning lots of energy and ending up with a house that was too damn cold all over unless I wound the flow temps up I learnt a valuable lesson - since then all the rads are now upsized and sized to meet the heat loss of the individual rooms I replaced the boiler with one that could modulate down to 4 kWh and could cope with low flow temps for CH and do DHWP for the cylinder recharge house is super comfortable and I'm running flow temps between 25 and 35 deg C under weather compensation and can re-charge the HW cyl with 70-80 deg flow temps in 30 mins once a day.

Ugh, I've seen this before, disgusting practice. I can recommend you someone who specialises in construction dispute resolution, he's very good (used him myself and had a final settlement with the builder signed inside 2 weeks). Drop me a PM if interested.

Similar tensile, A4 has a lower yield than 8.8. Stainless is also very susceptible to galling. But 8.8 is the minimum standard for anything structural, depending on exact application.

SS is used for traditional metal standing seam roof clips and screws.

So just to conclude this, I finally made a decision. Went with the DHP490 drill and DTD153 impact, both a decent upgrade from the base models. Plus the 186 recip saw. Only added a single 3Ah battery, because once my tools are all reunited I'll have plenty of batteries. Powertoolmate won out in overall cost, there were only a few quid in it. If I'd wanted to, I could have split the order between two or three different places to get the absolute lowest prices, but I'd have lost out any savings in additional delivery charges. Looking forward to my new toys

There are some articles out there that talk about this. If using over-lay, then it must be one that uses an insulated backing such as pir. In effect, this creates a decoupling with the slab and as it increases thermal resistance to the slab, it pushes it upwards instead. However, you need this to be properly calculated by someone who knows what they're doing because floor down losses also depend on the shape of the floor and external sides.. It's probably going to be better than over-lay on a suspended floor, but neither are that ideal into uninsulated floor. The other thing you need to consider is that you'll be raising the finished floor height and this will have an impact across your entire house and will also impact your stairs, which may need modification to still comply with building regs.

Hasn't A4 80 roughly the same tensile strength as Gr8.8 mild steel?

Actually I think it does need human intervention, that is why I am planning it this way. If the grid went down while the immersion, heat pump and cooker were going full tilt it would probably take the inverter out (10kw). That would be annoying. This way I can choose which of the heavier devices I want. The biggest down side to it being manual is that if the oven went out then the soufflé would collapse, but I haven't cooked one in 30 years.

Not necessarily, it depends on the ventilation strategy or mixture of strategy, of which buoyancy, is just one aspect. Mine mainly utilises pressure which is either vapour pressure difference or wind pressure. I do have a stack effect used for when it gets warm, and a limited stack from ground floor to first floor. But one of the things often overlooked is how building a house which uses materials that buffer moisture significantly reduces the ventilation requirements of the space which in turn reduces the energy requirements, whether through heating incoming air, or running mechanical ventilation. The calculated ventilation rate we have is about 0.38ACH and complies with building regulations minimum vent rates. Thermally, we now know that the building outperforms the calculated heat losses too. IAQ is fine. We've on a few occasions had raised CO2 but nothing to worry about at all. All the other measures like particulates etc. are always good, other than immediately after doing a load of dust inducing building work, but that clears pretty quickly.

Very minimum would be 100mm of PIR, then screed. But ideally 150mm+

Oh thanks, if I did insulate what spec would I likely need to put down?

Just check the max power available on the back up output will power the "heavier" loads. The Solis unit I'm thinking of using is a max of 5kw on the back up output so would need a bit of manual load management if we wanted to cook in the winter with the HP running