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Thanks all. Yes, will be using pea gravel and T1000: Wavin or similar Perforated coil drain 100 Ø mm surrounded by geotextile Terram 1000 or similar and 10mm single sized pea gravel, connected to outlets at 15.0m max centres. Baskets will be on a 300mm SHW Type 1 sub-base. And below that sub-base we need to put in drilled piles that are tied into the foundations (also on piles) via ground beams. Quite a bit for a single storey 2-bed timber frame. On top of that we have tonnes of natural stone on site, but our gabion designer is insistent we use Class 6G gabion stone only, so having to bring that in.

Hi. I have just put a new pvc door into old stone wall, i was hoping to insulate the inside revesls but there isnt enough room as id like, so i was thinking marmox board, my question is how ridgid is the board at small thickness ie 6 or 10mm? Because the stone work beneath is uneven iam wondering can i get away with not renderjng it flat behind the board? Thanks carl

You asked about replacing and then talk about repairing and covering. They are different things. If you replace your tarmac drive, then you need to do so with permeable material or meet the other criteria. If you repair your tarmac drive, it is not new or being replaced. If you cover it with something else, it is not new or being replaced. You don't have to do anything with existing drives, otherwise the whole country would have needed to rip their drives up and replace them.

Its worth getting the design earlier rather than close to when you think you need it, in order to ensure that the various parts will fit where expected. You may be able to make adjustments to other works to make the MVHR ducting fit better

I think there limits Mike. Not sure what they are. There are various connectors that you can buy to link the outlet of the pan to the soil pipe.

Have had similar and I'm pretty sure that the caps on each side slide off sideways to reveal a screw below. You'll probably need to insert a thin flat screwdriver or blade to prise the joint open as they click into place when fitting.

Thanks, I'll look them up. I'm in the process of doing a whole house renovation and I suspect I won't be ready for everything for a very good while. I might split the the basement and ground floor to get something on the go but that will still be a year in the making.

Thanks guys, I’m doing ok with bagged, not worried about it going ‘off’ really, it’s just I’ve a small amount of tiles to fit to finish off so I guess I need to master the art of a small batch mix.

I guess all this means that the height of the seat can be anything or are there limits? I have an issue in that although the pipe is low enough I cannot get the pan back far enough with the pipe running onwards to the ensuite shower so I am looking to lift it up.

I believe the gutter regs are inadequate for our changing climate. I based my design on living in oz where you have to have an outlet every 6m of gutter.

Good point, and I;m glad you reminded me about this. If I knew back then what I know now I would have insisted on 150 guttering instead of our builder ordering standard stock items from his regular merchant. We have a large roof but there should have been only one downpipe on the front of the house. It turns out that one downpipe needs 150 gutter to accomodate the flow. There's a set of regulations somewhere of gutter sizes required for roof sizes. It also specifies a fall towards the downpipe. Nobody on our site read it except me, and then too late. Fall, what fall?

the acorn thing would be an old wasp nest--some types do not make big nests -but lookd like they keep coming back they chew up wood or similar to make the nests

that will be because over time the back of the gabion could get cloggedwith silt -so he wants a drain at bottom to carry it away Isusepect any make of perforated land drai nwill do - make sure you surround it with pea gravel so it odes not clog a 3m retaing wall could hold a lot of water andturn into slurry which would take your wall away --that why he wants a seperate drain to stop this happening could also be the type of ground you are in do you have a concrete found for the gabion ? when i did mine ihad about 12" of rock rubble behind the gabion for the first m from the base to stop this happening Ialos have mine filledwith granite wste from the quarry -my ground is very free draining

Spare bucket full of water is how you clean the whisk. 30 seconds spin each way, like new. Use standard set and you’ll have 2 hours of open time to toddle along with. 🤝

FYI, this is the gutter that Tata supply with their Catnic roof. I can’t make out from your drawing what is cladding, cavity etc. But my understanding is that they want to fix the gutter to the outside face of the cladding (or equivalent timber). I was told by our steel roof installers to bring the top deck of OSB3 out to the same projection as the external face of the cladding. They then make the overhang and drip edge with their metal eaves trim, and the gutter is fixed through the outside face of the cladding to the timber.

Yup. No grotty silicone to scrub the pee from Beer reduces accuracy…….

Use a paint whisk in a drill not the big mixer, takes 30 seconds to spin it around in a bucket of water to clean it. easier to keep a bag opened than a tub that is shite in the first place and will get crusty bits in it if you open and close it all the time.

- Probably nothing ASHP specific about this question, but I'm specifically asking in relation to an Mitsu ecodan 8.5kW ASHP - This is the next instalment of my ongoing debacle about flow rate errors, link below. I now know this is not a sensor or plumbing error, but the plate heat exchanger is completely blocked and needing clearing. My plan is to get pickup some Fenox DS3, mix it up with hot water and pour into the PHE. Obviously with the whole lot disconnected from the primary circuit, and using appropriate PPE. Then flush it all with mains water. If that doesn't clear it up, then I probably need to get Mitsu in to replace it. Interested if anyone has had similar problem and how they attacked it?? ======= More background: 1/ original post 2 years ago, thinking it was flow sensor error, then thinking it was kinked flexi pipes. 2/ Subsequent update: I bought a cheap submersible pub (Makita LXT powered) and did some simple flow tests into a bucket: - without the PHE inline: 35 l/min - with the PHE inline: 4.5 l/min ---- just a trickle, and critically less than the 5l/min minimum required While flushing it through I initially saw plenty of white-ish sand-like granular dirt come out. Odourless. Presume this is limescale debris: - We're in a very hard water area; originally (2021) the system was filled (by others) with softened water, but since then I heard that's not advised so on subsequent fills I used mains water and Sentinel X100. It originally had glycol but I've never bothered to refill that. It's been emptied and filled numerous times due to FCU and volumizer additions, as recorded elsewhere on here. - It has a Fernox TF1 filter, I've regularly cleared and flushed that but never had significant dirt come out - but perhaps a bit of grains of limescale thinking back. My hypothesis now is that this was always the issue, but every time I messed about replacing flexi-pipes and blowing out the airlocks, I was also dislodging a bunch of limescale each time, but it's still had a constant build up that needs to be properly descaled.

I would add that I would look at wider gutter, I used 125mm rectangle profile. water comes offf these metal roofs far quicker than a tiled roof.

Our metal roof supplier told the joiners what was needed for this. He told our joiners to leave about 20 mm wall plate overhang for the gutter brackets and these were installed prior to the metal roof. ... which is great, but, the roof supplier didn't plan the metal detail for the gable end / gutter correctly. There should be an allowance at the gable end so that the gutter can continue through. Look at the photo below and you can see what the issue is. The metal on the gable end stops the gutter running through to an end cap. We had to butcher it to make it right. Its worth checking with your metal roof installer that they will cater for this properly. Unlike our roof 🙄

How can you remove a trickle vent to give access around it for painting ? - See photo.

Easier to clean around too.

You will need to provide ventilation behind both cladding types, MBC insist on it. I worked through all the details for our MBC house a couple of months ago, and put a case together for both building control and structural warranty inspectors to agree. It’s quite tricky is you want to provide proper ventilation, guard against insects, allow the cavity to drain any moisture that gets in there, conform to BR cavity barrier requirements and of course….look nice. Most examples I see just close off the heads of the window reveals, and moisture then just sit against the building. Do you have any section drawings to share what you have so far?

Have you chosen the supplier for the metal roof yet? There will typically be an eaves trim that gets fixed to the edge of the top deck, with a downturn that sits in the gutter. The metal roof sheets are then swaged to this trim to lock it all together.

Vanity was an Italian import, but imo the hung pans look very exclusive. Plenty of shapes and sizes to choose from.