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Mine is based on the decidedly old school economy 7 tariff that's been around forever and will prob still be around for some time to come given the number of people on all electric heating with no heatpump eg all electric flats. My batteries were sized to cover 90% of my days. As the export rate falls I'll have to get smarter about only filling the battery as much as I need but for now (this winter) fill up at night on 14p electric seems to be the best strategy.

We a have an almost complete new airtight house (0.59ACH) complete with MVHR. We will have an an induction hob with built in ventilation. The hob will be set to recirculate with most of the grease being absorbed by the carbon filter. The kitchen fitter and a diagram within installation instruction seem to suggest that the exhaust air should be allowed to find its own way into the kitchen from the hobs exhaust. Per AEG.pdf I feel the slightly greasy warm moist air will do no good to the insides of the island and suggested to the kitchen fitter that it would be better if we used a 220x90mm PVC duct to connect to the hob (AEG provided the appropriate adapter with the hob) directly to a hole through the plinth into the kitchen. I will find a grill to cover over this. The 2m of duct plus a 90degree bend will only cost £30 so to me it seems to be a no brainer. Any thoughts? The diagram below shows the proposed path of the duct. With duct.pdf

I thought you had previously told us the flow temperature was set to 46. I'm not suggesting you change it. If it's something else tell us what it is. In reality the best flow temp is one that varies depending on the outside temperature. It's higher when its colder and lower when its warmer outside. But that's all to complicated to worry about right now. I'm trying to get you to focus on just the most important things. Everything else can be looked at in future.

@-rick- I have known my HW temp is 46*C. Because I set this (so have some competency using the controller-thermostat). Now you are suggesting in the prior post here, that 46 is also good for my Flow Temperature. But by the same token (& I believe this to be true), you've told me that my HW setting isn't directly linked-in with my Flow temp. So. Is it simply a coincidence that you now also suggest 46 as a 'decent medium setting' for my Flow temp? -- (Matshian says it's "hard for him": chaps please bear in mind that that may well be so, but it's 10x as hard for me: I do sense Rick here understands this. Thx). Zoot

To which you replied “go feck yourself”?

Yup hard work for me too mr.marshian.. As I -did- get why you used your alien there.. but even so... you still haven't answered my Q. After trying three times in 3 successive posts. Look, you're getting fed up. That is understandable, I profess full idiocy with regard to this HP. But look, do yourself a favour, leave it to these other kind folks? I am honestly not wanting you to get angry, & really appreaciate trying to help me. But it is perhaps complicating things just a bit further for me, yourself having gas CH. Using gas CH numbers perhaps that I cannot relate to. With thanks, Zoot

@zoothorn Don't go changing settings you don't need to. 46 is fine. @marshian and I may debate what is best, but what you have is plenty to get your place warm. 46 is a perfectly normal temperature for someone with radiators. 'Medium' if you like. If it was over 50 it might be an issue. Long term lower may be better but it really doesn't matter right now when you are cold. Just focus on adjusting the timer. Maybe as a learning exercise set yourself the task of changing the evening heat period from 2 hours to 3 hours. Change nothing else. Just extend that time from 2 to 3 hours. Once you've done that we can talk about other changes. I've been busy today so will reply to the other stuff tomorrow.

I think mine is set to 2 degrees hysteresis. It is more about where the cylinder thermostat probe is placed. Initially mine was in the upper pocket (I only have one probe) and that meant the ASHP did not come on for a long time, as with normal HW usage the water does not mix and remains in layers and with the probe near the top it was a long time and a lot of water usage until the hot cold transition reached the probe and the ASHP started heating. For certain members of the family that like long showers that could mean the shower ran out before time. Moving the probe to the lower pocket meant the probe sensed the cold water much earlier on in the usage and started re heating sooner.

Christ this is hard work - my BH user id is Marshian - You know like from another planet - oh maybe the planet Mars - my better half - Mrs "Alien" (You know like from another planet) I know it's not spelt like that!!!!

I did plenty of testing. On a light use day a big hysterisis may mean your whole cylinder drops well below a usable temp. A normal use day it may be fine, but suspect you will have difficulty conversations with the other half, when the shower is like warm at best. So be ready for your head on a plate

@marshian Respectfully as you are trying to help using simple analogies like Aliens, but even so, I am still lost. I am confused here, about whether you are referring to a -room temp- of 19*C to 25*C (19-25 figures tally with a room temp figure that I set my old folks storage heater to), or, whether you're a answering my question of.. Can someone tell me what an average Flow Temperature setting, for this HP is? I just want to make sure the basics are in place, before I start changing settings to this Auto/ Timer thing. Anything 'medium' is ok. I'll just whack that in. You see if I were to find the recent installer has dialed in an excessively high figure, then this isn't put in with efficiency in mind, so I need to lower it (& vice-versa, but as the rads seem fairly hot, then I don't suppose he's dialed in too low a figure- may have though, for all I know). It might well be 19-25*C!! I don't know. I suspect the Flow Temp is a different ballpark to this typical room temp though. Like 46 or something.. although 46 as a figure I know is my HW temp. Which I now know is -separate- to the Flow Temp, from the most recent replies. Thanks Zoot

If you use thin battens they will split, but there are screws and screws. Using self drilling screws makes a big difference, 50mm battens makes things better also

I might be looking as some battery storage in the future but if I do it must be cheap and will ONLY be to store surplus solar PV for later, I am not interested in importing / exporting at different rates hoping to turn a profit.

I've also used PassivHaus Systems own branded tape and found it very good.

So much of the case for buying all these expensive batteries has always seemed based on gimmicky tariffs to me.

https://airtightnesstapes.co.uk/products/3100-black-airtight-tape?variant=48379082309911 This stuff looks identical to the stuff I used but a different brand. It doesn't look fancy but i was very impressed with it in person. Better than the Belgatape and Tyvek tape. I've used it externally on the garage too and it survived the weather for 6 months before I clad it.

Our shower glass has been etched by descaler over the years. Has anyone tried polishing/mopping out the frosting it produces? Have slow speed angle grinder/mop.

That's pretty normal Maybe not the best tariff for winter, Cosy may be better. Fill up at 15p/kWh You may actually make a loss in real terms if you are paying to charge and then discharging with round trip losses. Not sure about that, its more about being on the correct tariff. My electric cost to buy is currently 15p, excess PV I get 15p. I never charge battery to get paid for discharging only, only export excess energy from PV.

It's so frustrating. Parcel force deliver to here at a decent price, and obviously anything royal mail is a fixed rate. But so many companies ignore these options. I swear that when I was doing the build, I spent more time trying not to get shafted on delivery than I did actually building! One little good news story though- yesterday I phoned a supplier for something and they agreed to cut their stock 2m length down to the 1.8m I needed, which dropped it down a price bracket on delivery. Order went from £93 to £52 with a single phone call. Very decent of them.

Already bought but thanks for the offer 😊

Are you meaning like a tray that sits under the door to prevent water going further back under the threshold of the door, or standard threshold/extended threshold that projects further out? Is it an entrance/side door, lift and slide, French door (inward/outward)?

Thanks for this. We have just ordered. We are hoping we’ve got everything right with the window sill choices. I will check using your advice! I just have an issue with not seeing the door sills. Norrsken seem thorough re end caps,widths etc for windows depending on finishes. We have render with some walls. Cladding on others. I feel comfortable with that. I just would love to see a photo of a slide under sill on a door. I think it may look ugly or flimsy 😏

We're using thermowood battens for our cladding (russwood). Our roof battens were "gold" SIG roofing, which we also plan to use on the man cave cladding

Needs to be highlighted I think. It is why 'scientists, get a bit despondent when talking to lay people. No matter how often limitations are stated, these will be ignored and the 'in the real world' 'facts', based on a sample of 1, for a very different scenario, will be quoted as the truth, loudly.

That needs to be in the small print of... everything really.