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So upstairs hasn't been floored yet, but when it's walked on we are hearing it a bit too much. So wondering what the best acoustic solution would be given we have 12mm approx to work with. Cork? rubber? lvt, laminate? Head is done in so wondered anyone with experience of similar here and the solution. We have a dog that wanders upstairs. Cheers yet again. Daughters room pictured.

Apart from re taping the joints, that would not trouble me.

Sorry, forgot to post this. Exhibit A : one wrinkly membrane…

Fairs fair though, you are building a 3 underground storey defcon 1 bunker system. At least I assume you are at those lengths. And wow, our whole house isn’t as tall as your smallest pile.

Doesn't someone here work for a wood fibre company? Maybe @sgt_woulds?

I (G) did hours and hours of working through options for wall build ups. Drove J, the architect and a lot of buildhub dudes mad with my endless ‘what ifs’. In the end the conclusion surprised me. Getting the most wall insulation is not paramount. Adding insulation underfloor and in the loft is easy. Improving airtightness (don’t get me started) is massively more important than absolute wall u value. Glazing further undermines the benefit of excessive wall insulation. So then decrement delay (ask a nearby grown up to explain that one) and sound attenuation become the driving factor. Had I known what a bugger PIR is to work with I’d have factored that in too, but I didn’t back then. Frame batts (not roll as it falls out) is nicer to work with too. Just don’t push too much in. And don’t ask me why unless you’re wearing ear defenders lol

Why does it need to be more solid? I understood it was just fill of a void and would be covered with plasterboard?

Not so mini - 8m to 12m.

Thanks, but by ‘solid wood’, I mean more stiff sheathing / rendering board than soft flexi fill.

Welcome. First thing will be to get a drawing from Severn Trent showing the location and details of the sewer. If there are any discrepancies, request they come out and survey it to confirm. Check your property deeds for a way leave. There may not be one depending on the age of the sewer Whether you get permission to build over or not, that's a complete lottery I'm afraid. same for planning. Precedence a couple miles away doesn't really apply, it's what's been done on your street. Best of luck. Ask as many questions here as you like.

I don't know whether you mean rigid or flexi. I have used a lot of rigid and never seen 50mm. Up to now I had also never seen 50mm flexi, but this link suggests it exists: https://buildgreener.co.uk/products/naturheld-flex?currency=GBP&variant=49966431469915&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23967636703&gbraid=0AAAAA9vqH-jF7IOSs__UWCmfJE33AFZU-&gclid=CjwKCAjwpefSBhBvEiwAzyEtZ3XCW0_Kjt0zQszRO681RUVvIHowW4VmcRKpm3xXx6ZsqvIe0zhr9hoCkOQQAvD_BwE As @MPH243 says, Mike Wye also seem to do 50 flexi.

Mini piles?

It would need to be 350mm which is our fall back

Here’s a clearer more concise drawing

Quite so, but you can expose the existing pipe on your side and join into it. The levels will probably be fine to use, working backwards to the house.

The arguments against drainage through a building are. 1. if there is ever a problem then it is more difficult to resolve. 2. houses move up and down seasonally and could damage a pipe. 3. in a refurb there might be more work. 1. If built properly thee shouldn't be any problem. If there are rodding points anything is sortable 2, with plastic pipes they bend , not like old clay or iron pipes.

Have you tried Mike Wye, I don't know how much delivery would be as they are in Devon.

Gordon Lewis is tha’ man. If anyone wants his number, ping me a PM.

Posi-joists with blown in cellulose or wood fibre? This is easy to do - insulation installed in a couple of days. The problem is finding a reliable & professional installer. Unfortunately, we didn't .

Just started piling here for our basement and trying to get barn 1 watertight-ish. Just ordered the cladding .

This is for filling the bits of our 50mm service cavity that don't have services in. I can find plenty of 40mm & 60mm offerings...

If you are that tight on fall, could you raise the building by 200mm? Hardly noticeable I would think.

The redesign going under the property actually shorted the runs considerably and allows much more flexible ratios for the falls but I’m not a drainage expert so was just more dubious with having the main fouls drains under the property rather then around it

we want to avoid any drainage works outside the boundary of the property due to it being a private estate and the costs/lenght of time taken to get permissions to dig the road

He isn't a designer and is used to seeing very poor workmanship where 1:80 flattens out in places to a still legitimate (presumably) 1:100. But do check the numbers. You can hold your ground on this, just build it well.