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Sadly that would require a complete redesign and there are loads of other pipes - mains water, water softener etc, running in those areas I have not installed yet so two filters is easier. I have the connections for that coming Monday to the far left of the straight run from the return manifold That's already in the return line from the tank out of shot to the left. Its not 25l though it 8l which should more than cover the 70l of the system I worked out.

The advantage of moisture permeability is that, should any moisture get into the structure, it has an easy escape route - for example to reduce the risk of rot in timber windows. That's why I chose to use it on my current project - though I had to rip the cheap stuff out of the installers hands and give them the genuine product!

You may have an issue with the UFH manifold return leg collecting air? You will need a method to bleed the lower manifold and the piping run going to it. Also the return line you need an expansion vessel and safety group, something like this, after the filter isolation valves https://www.unventedcomponentseurope.com/expansion-vessel-25-litre-heating-fixing-t-bar-system-kit.html/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy Unvented Components Europe&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=879559&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17178278874&gbraid=0AAAAADCTOYDo74Yo9HePQuEMKnbFqfg6s&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9JuybXCf4Z5_Ln7s1jNmeqsPnHSW3goCc-0aIt_EChTwzn0-N3iEqenxoC5xkQAvD_BwE

Can't you get a filter in the vertical on the return after the tee? Then you only need one filter/strainer. I would redo the tee before you go through the wall, to make space. Rotate tee horizontal, add filter, then loop up and out off wall or something like that. Your pipe is huge so no issue with pressure drops feeding 3 loops

Compriband is a trade name but in a search brings up lots of copycat or simply squishy foam products. I didn't realise Compriband, capital C, could breathe so there must be more products than I know of. Why does it need to breathe if it is non absorbent?

Called out by my mother in law this weekend to no heat in her system. Discovered system was emptying as fast (faster) as the header tank could fill. After an awkward wriggle under the floor, I discovered the original "plumber" has made no attempt to crimp the connection on this elbow onto the pipe to the external drain down valve (at basically the lowest point in the system 😱) and it has evidently decided this weekend to move a bit and turn from a slow leak to a fast one. By my calc I think we've lost at least 200L of water under the floor since yesterday. God knows how much since this was done a few years ago. I do not own/have access to a press tool for this connector. I am not at all convinced I'll find a plumber willing to wriggle the extremely tight subfloor route to get to it. Any ideas? If I cut the pipe immediately above the elbow is there a compression elbow I could use instead? Pipe has no manufacturer listed afaics, printing says "005m UFH MULTILAYER PE-RT/AL/PE-RT butt-welded PIPE TYPE I 16x2.0mm T=85°C P=10bar ISO 21003 CLASS 2/10bar,5/10bar 04:31:43 10/09/2019". Argh!!! No wonder my own project is years behind schedule constantly having to fix up after "pros" elsewhere 🤬

Here is the plant room mockup plumbing (used 28mm plastic segments to get lengths right and check scheme). I think I can get the filters into the utility room as indicated, I either do away with the fill flush or put it outside by the HP and work hard to insulate it.

Yep. You certainly have nothing to complain about if you don't vote, you are obviously happy with everything, anyone throws at you.

It's fine for sealing membranes to each other or to adjacent surfaces - I've used it myself - but I wouldn't use it to seal plywood joints. If you're sealing ply for airtightness then I'd use an airtightness tape. BTW it does set, but it will remain flexible - to a point - and tacky.

I'd go further and suggest that everyone should be required to vote. Reports of the benefits of doing so in Australia - such as this one from the BBC - seem, on balance, to be be positive. In particular, it means that any party that wants to get elected / stay in office has to address the concerns of all segments the population, rather than just the demographic that habitually votes.

+1. There are a lot of inferior competitors that perform much worse - it sounds like you may have one. No; it's very good but, as mentioned by @SimonD, even genuine Compriband has limits. I recall calculating that their window strip is good for wind up to around 70mph. In an exposed position, it would therefore be a good idea to have a second line of protection. Either something to shelter it from the wind - your timber cladding might be enough do that - or vertical & horizontal 'cavity trays' behind it. For airtightness, add Ilbruck FM330 form (or similar) and/or an airtightness tape internally. Sealant would block Compriband's moisture vapour permeability, so if that property was one reason for choosing Compriband you'd loose it. If that's not a concern, then a suitable mastic is OK.

Hi all Recently got a new front window fitted. Its a stone sill and is a false bay window with a canopy at the top which was also replaced. Essentially the bottom looks like it sits on the two edges as there is then a drop away in the stone? This gap has then been filled with a piece of plastic trim?

ps - site currently resembles the Somme ...and sadly probably will do until April+ Is there any scope for a rudimentary 'porch' outside the door (even if it's a free-standing 'shed') so you can have a good doormat and change wellies outside?

It’ll also be an acoustically poor solution, so with moderate to hard rain the sound will be notable to the room interior. A blown-in insulation would be the very best solution for weaving around the metal webs and those associated impossible to get to gaps, and give a huge boost to sound deadening. As @ProDave says, this is something you need to stop all wires with and get a solution to, before moving any further forwards. Just had Gordon Lewis on site pumping my current clients roof with Warmcell (blown-in cellulose) and he’s done a fantastic job getting every nook and cranny packed full of the good stuff. 👌 Abandon the rigid insulation in the roof, and preserve that for the vertical walls only. Arcitect will need to rerun the intersitial condensation analysis before pulling any trigger. Airtightness is moot, the original house will underperform most likely, just all about draft proofing at this point; plus obvs managing repeat cold bridging, and maxing out on the (properly installed) insulation.

... or ask agent to contact the would-be buyer and offer a discount that is more than the cost of re-roofing? My roof has no membrane (and, unlike your friend's mother's house, never has had). I won't say it has never leaked, but at 100+ years old it still requires very little routine maintenance. If I came to sell, however, I am sure the survey would point out the lack of sarking as an 'issue'.

Shrinkage will cause air/w.v leakage through cracks in the plaster layer. Do an excellent VCL on top of excellently-fitted insulation.

Now you tell me. Could have done with that advice before I tried to mend the SWA cable I pulled up (and snapped) with the digger. Mind you if I'd taken all the advice so generously offered on this site I'd have finished our build long ago. Instead I break stuff and then - when furious with myself for being so stoopid - I read the instructions. Our electrician came out and mended the SWA for me one freezing Bank Holiday evening 20 minutes after I'd rung him. James at CEPS

Yes it's shocking. Put a well insulated roof on top of a well insulated wall, but detail it so badly that cold air just gets in and negates it. Shocking that so many builders just do not understand that.

Bad eaves detail, with a warm roof. How many times do we see that.

Moisture can migrate through plaster. You’ll need a VCL of some sort.

How crucial is a completely airtight fit when the internals are plastered with no screw holes etc. I gather condensation only becomes an issue when the warm moist air passes from the room into the gaps with the PIR?

Thank you Crofter, unfortunately it looks like they are going to have to remove the roof tiles and place new membrane!

Or we having the cooling requirements. A lot of France has similar weather to us.

Just to clarify, is the roof slates or tiles? Regardless of what the final covering is, there should be some form of waterproof material underneath. The exact type depends on how the roof is built. E.g. in Scotland, a slated roof would typically have a bituminous felt on to timber sarking boards. Slates come in varying sizes and shapes so you need this continuous layer of timber to nail in to. In England, you often will have a waterproof membrane which sags slightly between the rafters, and battens over the top to carry the tiles. You can use battens because the tiles are a uniform size. But in general, yes that membrane needs to be there. The tiles or slates themselves will shed most of the water but not 100%. They can get damaged, or in strong winds rain can get forced in to the gaps. Repeated exposure of the roof structure to water will cause serious damage.

That must have been a difficult post to write @DTL.... Well done for stepping away from a difficult problem - difficult because so much emotion is invested in buying a house and not just money. All may not be lost. You stepping away from purchase might just result in the vendors rethinking their sales strategy.