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If anyone knows of a channel drain that can fit into a 47mm gap under the door I'm all ears. The only thing I can find is somehting that's £210 p/m plus crazy corner prices https://www.aquabocci.co.uk/products/a30-low-profile-drain-120mm-wide-x-35mm-deep Another reason to add to the long list of why I regret buying these overpriced hunks of aluminum.

I have been looking at moving house so I’m doing a fair amount of viewings. Based in the north of Scotland, I keep stumbling upon cold roof houses built between the 60s-80s with no fresh air flow I can see. I have seen a few with cold pitched roofs with insulation at the joist level all the way to the eaves, and no soffit vents or roof tile vents. Then today I viewed a dormer with the eaves accessible with a hatch; where the insulation was between the rafters but the floor of the hatch extended to the eaves with insulation on top. Am I missing something? I thought cold roof construction had to have fresh air flow? Evidently these properties were built like this from the start and haven’t had any mould/smells/damage. I appreciate it might be possible with a strict VCL on the warm side of the insulation but in the roofs I have been in I didn’t see any membrane or the like. Or is it because the roofs have less insulation (50-150mm rolls) so the condensation is happening under the roof tile and not under the sheathing, so it is ok?

That makes a lot more sense, thanks. This is screenshot from the origin windows video that I watched originally. It always seemed a bit suff to just lay onto the cill. Now need to find a cill that fits. Origin vid

How slow? Any accurate method is slow, especially when done twice, and your cuts look very tidy.

https://www.underfloorheating-uk.co.uk/ultra-proprimer-multi-surface-primer-5l?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17338911325&gbraid=0AAAAAoLvRhE8xAMg9zKPv4sDYKebcUBvm&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn8i2xMT4lAMV9pFQBh1_tiSiEAQYAyABEgJ7pvD_BwE

Ya 👍

apologies 🤣 So i have this straight, XPS board, dabs on the board as opposed to the wall, dab about the back but away from the edges. Push that plumb, when its gone off drill through the dabs in various places. Sound about right?

Quite ‘faffy’? It’s a brush….. Or go buy battens, and plasterboard, and cut them, and make mess, and shape that lot to fit the space. Faffy?????? 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Part L seems to want me to submit a commissioning plan before construction: 8.2 A commissioning plan should be produced, identifying both of the following. a. Systems that need to be tested. b. How these systems will be tested. For new dwellings, the commissioning plan should be given to the building control body with the design stage dwelling primary energy rate, dwelling emission rate and dwelling fabric energy efficiency rate calculations. Seems quite sensible but do people actually do this in practice? I want to get my submission in asap and thought I'd work out these details as I go along but maybe that is not possible anymore.

How much closer??

Seems quite faffy, especially with the small size of the individual backer boards... Should I just batten it out with 2x1 and be done with it? No pipes or anything else on that wall, it's back to brick and just needs to be tile-able and not eat into the already tiny room.

Fair enough on the neighbourly point then, sorry. Moving or losing 400mm may still be simplest though.

And remember that it has about 50V flowing though it, so can tingle.

For UKPN you can do it all yourself - we are on single phase, applied for an account, used the web form and off it went we got 7kW peak output set at the inverter with no haggling or anything from UKPN.

Just take photos of how the cable was connected to the socket BEFORE you disconnect it, then you can be sure you can re connect it the same.

Thanks everyone. @Nickfromwales when you say primer - what product do you mean specifically?

@ProDave, our package is called "Part Fibre", which means there's fibre to the village cabinet, and copper up into the surrounding valleys (Welsh valleys). Thanks to @SteamyTea I've now seen on YouTube that moving the socket is simple, and that drilling through the wall would be the most testing part.

I've moved BT copper cable many times over the years in various houses. I've just removed the copper cable from inside my current house and disconnected it from the outside of the house and had Openreach remove it to the pole. I got fed up with slow broadband. I wouldn't know what to do if it was fibre.

I think there's lots of inverters that allow 100% over sizing of the DC input compared to the inverter rating....our Solaredge certainly does. If you're looking to max out year round generation then maybe look for inverters that will allow more than 46% oversizing??

Anyone can put a G99 application in...you, designer, installer.

Are we talking copper wire as in ADSL? Or Fibre? A picture of what's behind the socket might help.

Upstairs. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m0014pgk As for the rest, just do it. Been a long times since the GPO can lock someone up.

Hello. Do I have to ask for a BT engineer to move a BT broadband socket, or an electrician do ti? Our broadband/phone cable comes from a pole on the nearby lane to just below the roof above the 1st floor. Then it travels west about 20 metres along the front of the house before passing through the wall of the room at the extreme west end of the house. As the house is long and narrow, this arrangement isn't helpful. It was probably made like this because the previous owner had an office in that room at the extreme west end, and can't have had a wish for wifi reception at the extreme east end of the house. Wifi throughout the house would surely be much better if the cable entered the house halfway along the frontage. I imagine that "all" that needs to be done is: - drill a hole through the 10" wall of the house (wood-board, Kingspan insulation board, plywood board, internal plaster) - shorten the cable then draw it through the hole - reposition the BT socket on the wall, and attach the cable to it. - seal round the cable on the exterior side of the wall. Is this something a local electrician could easily do? To make wifi reception throughout the house as good as possible, should the new socket be positioned upstairs or downstairs? If the socket were to be upstairs, it would be in the large living-room in the middle of the house and the router attached to it could feed the TV directly via an ethernet cable. If the socket is positioned downstairs, it would be in a small room but still be in the middle of the house. Thank you for advice.

OK reporting back: after trying out lots of options, we cut the angle with a Proxxon Thermocut 650 and a home made jig. It lacks a bit of oomph and was fairly slow, but the flipside was that it didn't burn or smell much. We made the straight-through cuts with a big-assed circ saw - not crazily messy. You can get bigger hotwire cutters than the Proxxon and specifically for insulation, but we wanted to specifically cut 200mm deep. p.s. the wire is very thin and breaks quite easily. Although it comes with 30m of wire on a little spool, you might want some extra.

Hehe, what you've described is room influence, although the best room influence simply sends an additional signal to the heat pump to reduce the flow temps essentially modifying the WC curve. But if you have control from the room, that's room influence as it calls to the heat pump - nothing to do with actuators/open loop in an of themselves. Room influence is just about adding additional system control which uses the room conditions as input. 😁