All Activity

I don't think it does - maths is just maths Whenwe bought the house it was 23,000 kWh of gas annually - I got it down to 16,500 kWh of gas a year for CH and HW with typical home improvements before I started my optimisation efforts - I reduced it to 8,500 a year (with scheduled heating) but it's now stable at 10,250 running 24/7 with a DHWP and WC set up (I'm running a gas boiler like a heat pump) Latest change should see me back below 10,000 within a year

Have a read of the FIT guidance for generators so you get your set up correct. Adding an AC coupled battery between the generation meter and your consumer unit/incoming supply is likely acceptable. The guidance will also tell you if the change has to be notified to your FIt payer, which lots of things do have to be notified. If your FIL already has a 4kw system he'll need to get consent from his DNO to add any more potential export such as a battery. Don't be put off by the red tape as its all straight forward once you understand the constraints.......no one want to loose early FIT payments:)

The pump came with the house package so there was no discussion with the installer prior. The didn't know me from Adam. The house functions well but with energy costs so high you have to wonder if the set up is performing at it's most efficient. Seeing other examples of energy usage for comparable homes does help to put it into context.

What the installer feels is appropriate should be based on what you told them you want......did you get what you wanted originally and your lifestyle has changed that you need/want to change things 2 years down the road??

Can you add what the local merchants had quoted you for comparison? Also if both quotes include delivery etc. Cheers

A few years ago I built solar screens using Suntex 80 mesh in aluminium insect screen frames, from Streme. Because my windows were pretty old and due to be replaced in a few years, I fixed the screen brackets directly to the face of the frames. The mesh makes a very noticeable difference to summer temperatures and doesn't make it overly dark indoors - it just gets a bit gloomy towards the end of summer, but removing them is a quick job, rather than the year-round effects from permanent solar films. I'm looking to build replacements once the new windows are fitted, and was looking at suction cups with threaded standoffs and hammer-on eyelets through the mesh. I believe this is what Suneclipse sell ready-made. The Suntex mesh doesn't really fray once cut - so even though it's a bit ugly, it's not the end of the world to leave a cut edge.

Just for the record. I have absolutely no loyalty or association with BuyMaterials, but I thought I would give it a try recently to see whether I could get a better deal than I was getting from the local merchants. Cut a long story short, I have already saved a pretty large chunk of cash. For example 61 sheets of Caberdek P5 Eco - £9.10 / sheet 57 sheets of 18mm OSB3 - £17.24 / sheet The only negative, is that having submitted a quote. they do tend to hassle a bit and ask whether you need anything .... But all in all, I am impressed and if you get tired of trying to haggle with the local merchants, then you might find it useful.

Almost, plenty of videos available on YouTube. Basically 3 wires to the consumer unit and a CT clamp I believe. Add one or add a few they just daisy chain together.

Is it too hot or too cold in the house is the first step? Does it remain so all the time you want it to? If it does maybe not think about it much after that. I like reading technical manuals, do it for fun, but the general UK public doesn't. 5 years ago before building the house I never touched the settings of our boiler, I just forced myself to learn as there was no one to ask.

Looks pretty reasonable. The description makes this sound DIY'able. Is it as easy as plugging it in and away we go?

Just buy a heat pump version, you won't even notice it being used they use little energy.

Just personal choice really, I have lived in England, Sweden, Germany, Malaysia and Singapore but choose to live where I do. Lots of land makes things less expensive compared to limited land, and lots of competition in London. Not sure luck comes into it, just where you want to live and work.

Nice project. I'd go down the SE route, but you can keep the fee sensible by giving them a really clear brief. A small timber frame like this isn't a big job for them if the information is all there. What I'd send: a dimensioned plan and section showing the post positions, the 5.25m opening, the 5.75m depth and the 8.7 degree pitch. The full roof build up (ply deck, membrane or Greencoat, any battens) so they can work out the dead load. Your postcode, rough height above ground and how exposed the site is, because the wind and snow loads come from location and terrain. The slab details: thickness, mesh if you know it, any edge thickening, and how far the posts will sit from the slab edge. And your preferred materials, so oak posts plus glulam or LVL, solid or open web rafters. With a shallow mono pitch and two open sides, uplift is usually the governing case rather than the weight of the roof. The critical bits are the connections all the way down: rafter to beam, beam to post and post to slab. Expect the SE to specify raised post shoes so the oak end grain stays off the concrete, fixed with resin anchors or through bolts sized for the uplift, with proper edge distances. Worth getting them to confirm the slab edge can take those anchor loads, not just that the slab is heavy enough. With two open sides you'll also need racking resistance, so knee braces at the posts or a braced back wall. On the beams, it's worth talking to a glulam or LVL supplier in parallel. Many will size a single member for you, but they normally won't design the whole frame or the connections, which is where the real risk sits. A midspan purlin with shorter solid rafters keeps member sizes down. Full span LVL rafters give a cleaner soffit, but deflection over nearly 6m is what will size them. If you do tie the roof into the workshop, I'd keep the carport structurally independent and use a flexible flashing detail at the junction so any differential movement doesn't crack or tear anything.

Yes it bothers me alright. I have been thinking, but I haven't come up with an effective solution yet. I'm not blind to the issue though.

I was super impressed how much visibility I get, honestly wasn’t expecting so much. The window in this case is inset due to the EWI, and I’ve also brought it away from that by around 4cm, so maybe 24cm between the fabric and the glass as it’s shown there

Oh i see. Lucky for some

Trouble is the installer does presumably do this but then leaves the system set as they feel is appropriate. A short briefing on the the operation, the manuals (mostly installation rather than operation)handed over then off they go. Two years down the line how does one assess whether that set up matches your lifestyle. Finding accessible information that is understandable to tweek the system is hard. Many posters on here have got a very detailed knowledge of the operational side of these units whereas some of us are loathe to fiddle too much; especially just before the heating season........ My last full year was 5210Kwh for all in power (no gas) in a 178m2 house with two people and the occasional guests. The next hi-tech addition I'm working on is clearing more plot for a washing line to reduce tumble dryer use!

Don't underestimate solar gain, it can be painful even in northern Scotland. Consider the less obvious westerly setting sun as much as the southern.

But the installer should be the ones doing this not the home owner. Some are switched on to it (but not many) other would look at you like you two heads, even speaking about it.

I think this just makes my point.......................

One consideration will be some kind of shading. I know you're in Scotland but you will have have massive solar gain for most of the day Also the TV may have glare problems during the afternoon, so it may be mechanical shading required rather than just photo-resistant glazing Regards Tet

https://www.solar-hub.co.uk/products/sunsynk-lifelynk-all-in-one-s-2-5kw-hybrid-inverter-2kwh-battery?srsltid=AU7gw4Wfmv0CQ7E9o5jbAHEG7L0hf7RTpp81SWdFPNikp0QgveW1Guh9 Is about £1k, have a shop about

Thanks for this. There's lots I really like about Neil's own house (and some that I don't 😂). I'm not surprised to hear that they are associated with Mary Arnold Foster as their designs have a similar feel. I really love what they are doing and the new approach to Highland architecture. I'm hoping it will work just as well here in the south of Scotland.

What sort of cost is to be expected for a modest battery installed?

I think they were deemed from the start? No export meter, just a 50% payment for export