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I didn't know it was a thing that wasn't done. Considering most of the wholesalers listed it as an adapter on their websites I assumed it would be a common connection and not an issue. The 32mm trap in the downstairs bathroom gets clogged up regularly, I figured keeping it 40 would be better Mcalpine is a brand leader, standard. It's their product It wasn't until I visited local places and just got shrugs that I looked online and nobody had it in stock. And those that said they did screwed me around. The mcalpine store on amazon doesn't even stock it.. Yet nowhere does it say its been discontinued.

Unfinished? Worth checking.

I'm using this stuf to bond wooden battens onto PIR and concrete. Seems to work really well. Possibly cheaper from elsewhere.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NK8CHJV?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

No not normally that much movement. I suspect they have not been fitted properly. Take them off and re fit.

This is an interesting approach. Given BC have signed off level thresholds around the perimeter of the house, I am keen to understand this detailing further. It's the detailing with regards to the level threshold that's confusing me. I did find the below, diagram, but it's for a conventional 150mm lower outside floor level.

That's the avoided answer - it's cycling because it's too big. If I'm reading the numbers correctly the 10kW at 7 degs and 35 flow a min output of 5.8kW. When running cop will be 5.8, but then the impact of cycling will bring this down. The 7kW min output at 7 degs is 3.2kW, so will still cycle but only a couple timescale day, the chart indicates a cop of 4.9. which is pretty rubbish. By way of comparison a Haier R290 35 flow, for a max 6kW demand at -2 and at 3kW at 7 degs A 6kW is suitable putting out 6.4kW at -2, at a CoP of 4.17, at 7 degs CoP is 5.4 and is mid range of it's output, it's min modulation at 15 degs is 1.8kW at a cop of 7.24. So should run none stop from start of heating season to the end for almost any house.

It really is, plus you get to learn a lot about yourself in the process too! Thanks for the encouragement 👍🏼

@Alan Ambrose We had ours installed over 3 years ago, so probably not worth comparing costs. We did look around for other suppliers but they either didn't do what we were looking for or were much more expensive. We didn't plan for maintenance.... But they've been in for a while now with no problems. I say no problems.... someone.... left one of the chairs on the patio under one of them and it wouldn't straighten by itself, so we got Hallmark out to fix it. They did explain how to rejig the tapes that do the up and downing by pushing buttons on the motors - although of course we've no idea now how to do that!! You can see the motors when the blinds are down by looking up into the housing. We didn't use cassettes but I did find some interesting lintels with cassettes built into them. Could probably still find these if you are interested. Ours are built into a slot above behind the timberwork for the cladding. You can see this from the photos on our architects web page -> https://lhc.net/projects/ashcroft-creating-a-low-energy-family-home/ If you zoom in to the photo with the chairs outside, you can see that the side channels were attached to stands that were screwed into the frame of the sliding doors. So they are proud of the sides of the opening. We are very pleased with them - they're great in the summer for reducing solar gain and from autumn to spring good at letting the solar gain in. Hallmark are only a small outfit but apart from a few niggles we were pleased with them. PS We used wired switches but in hindsight it might have been better to have a wireless system.

Screwfix are showing the same stuff for collection only but appear to still do it. It was my goto for round doors and windows but Illbrück FM330 is far superior. It skins up so much more rubbery and flexible I just feel more confident of it than the Soudal stuff.

There’s also Metal Gutta stainless e.g. https://www.roofingsuppliesuk.co.uk/products/stainless-steel-125mm-gutter-2-4m-length Anyone used that?

Someone smarter than me will have to answer that precisely. I haven’t researched the install that far yet. I’ll have a stab though and someone can correct me My logic says no. The cylinder is topped up with mains water via mains inlet (top if I recall last time a was meddling with one) and then the flow which becomes the pump feed exits bottom and the return would be another top entry. So as long as the cold water supply keeps up with the usage (there would be no interference with flow) only the usual dilution of heat caused by the cold water top-up this is roughly based on my current immersion set-up so it may differ with ASHP but again my logic says no.

Did your engineer come back on Friday?

Yesterday, I bought some Soudal low expansion foam from Toolstation, for sealing around windows and doors. https://www.toolstation.com/soudal-flexible-expanding-foam/p69089

So perhaps an error on my part but upon building the cavity wall and opening for pretty hefty 6m bi fold doors I may have caused an issue. The build details for this opening are completed as per the recognised construction details: https://www.recognisedconstructiondetails.co.uk/library/document/mpf-150-e4-01-window-jamb.pdf I did not put a return on the vertical cavity which I was advised against as "its common practice to return the wall on the external leaf". However for thermal bridging I'm of the belief this is no longer advised with insulation and an insulated cavity closer used (same as the window details). This is where real world meets theoretical though. How does the joiner get the doors secured? they dislike the use of brackets to anchor the door to the inner leaf. I then looked at the recognised construction details and realised the page is titled "windows". Does this mean I could and should have returned the wall. I've added a photo from earlier in the build to explain if I've not been clear. I'm just getting the roof on shortly and about to order windows and doors, just thought I'd ask people's opinions. Many thanks, Jamie

Anyone use these and have any recommendations? Our build is slowish and our LPA is properly difficult. Therefore I’m anticipating we’ll have the external roof and wall membranes on show for some time and therefore liable to UV. I can see stuff like Tyvek UV facade, but it still has only a 4-month UV life?

Our Velux is partially installed - is this amount of movement on the trim around the window (not flashing) normal? Is there any way to tighten it up? thanks IMG_9154.mov

For budgeting and decision making purposes, does anyone have a rough idea of the cost of these? Any other competitors you considered? How did you provide for inevitable maintenance? Dropping them down from their slot or somehow extracting them from the front? Did you bury the side channels in the window surround or leave them proud?

Can I ask - does the recirc pump somehow not interfere with the mains pressure supply from the UVC?

What would those same comparative figures be for a more normal winter time of say 7 degrees with a load on both pumps of 3kw?

Yes, my thoughts were that we are a pretty habitual family and our DHW usage is pretty much confined to two distinct blocks of time 0500-0800 (showers and washing up) and 1700-2000 (baths, showers and washing up) with random intermittent use inbetween. I’m putting the tank right above the main cloakroom which will get the majority of the use during the day. But the longest run is likely to be 55m if I did it radially (one of the kids bedrooms) and when it’s bathtime it’s bathtime if you know what I mean. Reckon I’m pretty convinced that recirc is the most water efficient (we’re on a pumped treatment tank) and could well be the most energy efficient if well lagged AND suitable automation/control is installed.

We have a very large recirculation, probably 100m? We're a bungalow with high ceilings, and fairly spread out layout. I thinks it's a 22mm circulation loop outbound, 15mm inbound, with very thick Armaflex pipe insulation wrapped all around it. 30 to 40mm thick maybe? I wanted high flow as much as possible. The circulation is on for about 14 hours of the day, but is timed to come on in the cheap night tariff when DHW comes on, so the whole loop warms up during cheap period. It drops a 49 degree 300L cylinder 3 degrees from DHW being turned off around 5.45 am, and me walking past it now 90 mins later. Some natural cylinder loss as well. I'd say that's totally worth it for what is otherwise a near 1 minute wait at the kitchen tap for hot water. Two core bathrooms on the circulation loop is within 10 inches if the tap.. Instant... The kitchen/other bathrooms is annoying as it's in the ceiling above it, so takes around 5 seconds (!) to get to the tap, I shoulda got them to loop it into the cupboard. Can't win them all!!

Self building is a mission (pardon the pun) but an absorbing and rewarding one, we are looking on in awe! You blog is wonderful - keep it up and keep on keeping on.

Thanks, slowly but surely things are getting there…

Think this may be a social class issue. Just put room numbers on everything.

I’d just say beware anyone of anyone who is partisan because they’ve used one system. I’ve been fortunate to work with multiples, warts and all, so am giving a balanced and real life overview from hands-on experiences.