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Absolutely. Galling is a thing to be very wary of. Use copper slip or aluminium anti seize. A bitch if they gall. Another trick is to use A4 nuts on A2 studs as well as an anti seize medium.

Hi again folks. I've been away but about to get tools out now & carry-out this hemp plastering come insulation job on 2 (internal but exterior facing) walls - & I now have some help. Tweaking the inputs on Ubakus it still shows a v.small condensation risk even with my fitting a Proc-lima VCL, see pic. -( & I've had to slightly approximate buildup using only materials in their lists). Thanks @Iceverge your cautionary words & suggestions (above), indeed the dynamics of what's happening in these build-up layers is only shown as one moment in time on Ubakus. But I definitely think I've got to include this VCL as a precaution; £300 per 50M roll but currently £268(inc VAT) on Ins.Merchant. And, I'm inclined to 'use-up' the roll applying it across the ceiling . . .What do people think about if I lay Proclima on/under the existing 9mm plasterboard then over-board with further 9mm of p'board. (current ceiling board never been skimmed, is tatty with a few holes etc from various work in attic above, of this spare bedroom. Would such a job be worthwhile? / offer useful improved vapour control? - I know this is not exactly the correct place for a VCL, between 2 layers of p'board, but I can't contemplate removing current 9mm layer - mess etc. This bedroom ceiling is under a cold roof (& a little draughty) with 150mm Rockwool laying on top of that ceiling. Of course I ought add a further 120mm of wool to existing. Would cost /effort of adding such a VCL then boarding over be worth it. Would appreciate any-ones thoughts. Many thanks

Great to hear. We've had our Internorm door fitted and LOVE it. Definitely felt like a luxury spend, but we went by a similar logic - few bits of the house will have such a guaranteed impact. No fingerprint scanner though... 👏

Thanks, I see the point now! I'll give it a go Friday when in next free

You just pressurised the house pipework most likely. You need to follow the last instructions and do this again to find out if the vessel is RIP.

Very helpful replies thanks and think I know what I'm doing now. One more question however. An engineer pal has said to watch out for galling between stainless steel threads and nuts. For this static application can I use standard grease for this or something more specialist?

Hmm, so the tap was left open for 60 seconds or so with cold shut off. I was pumping and pressure falling per previous message. However, when I shut the tap I was able to pump it up to 3 bar very slowly, but it seemed to be steady and touch wood was left at bang on 3 bar. Opening the hot taps and cold water back on, all seems to flow normally. Do you think I need to do anything now? Or redo the whole excersise with hot tap open fully for the entire duration?

Yeah I meant about the bar keepers friend 😉

@Onoff It is such a great recipe, no need to purchase Evaporust.

@SimonD I'm interested in doing my own calculations on this. Whilst I head off and do some searching, can you help me expedite this by directing me to any resources / reference material that takes me through the process specific to sizing UFH to a room / heat loss etc? It sounds like this should be a lot easier than trying to dig out my thermodynamics notes from 20+yrs ago (I hope... never was my favourite, but now I'm more motivated 🤣). In an earlier post which evolve into a focus on the UFH layout / sizing I had actually asked about this - I was wanting to understand if I should be looking to tailor the UFH pipe spacing and design to each room, which largely received the response "it'll all end up at the same temperature, so don't bother" (I'm heavily para-phrasing). However, I do like to learn a new aspect of engineering and although I have no available time, I'll happily sacrifice some of my sleep to work this through myself. Would be grateful for a steer... (btw I did look up Rob Berridge and in the YouTube interview he mentioned that he provided training material but I can't find it; I've reached out to him, but no response yet). I'm still waiting myself. This sums up so many of my frustrations. How are the general public (i.e. me) meant to know enough to challenge the information we're provided. I've surprised myself at how much I've spotted, been brave enough to question and then, disappointingly actually, found out I'm right and something needs to be changed or corrected! (from architect designs, timber frame structural elements, roofing construction and roof light installation). Micro rant over. Thanks for this - I will be re-visiting the ASHP / heat loss calcs (though I know it's 'just numbers plugged into a software tool' - hence my interest in learning the calcs).

"A far better mix is to use 100gm citric, 40gm of washing soda (tesco green bags) and a squirt of fairy liquid per 1L of water. It is reusable many times. Doesn't turn the metal black. And doesn't etch the metal so much. It is a similar solution to Evaporust".

Typing in my spare time, so to add that all these finger in the air designs are then backed up accordingly, after I submit what I want installed, and they (chosen commission agents or manufacturers) come back with green lights all the way, hence the SCOP of mid 5’s I mention above. You don’t actually need the numbers as the physics basically overrule in every case, x amount of heat loss requires the same to maintain 21°, so the heat pump will push that out as required. It shall take no more. As long as you’ve not oversized then pipe centres are pretty much as you please, I’ve done 100mm cc and @JohnMo has his sending postcards to each other, one with a buffer and his without, both performing extremely well / efficiently etc.

Bit extreme but If you ever need to make up a large volume of rust remover this recipe works. I needed to clean some steel handrails which were covered in surface rust, in the end any rusty implement went in the bath.

Why not just Hep2o?

Agreed. It looks fine, but not widely stocked.

Why not heating, what will you use? If you have a heat pump use it. 2+kW means you need heat. Not been on buildhub for a few days. Our Haier 4kW will kick out over 6kW, even though the datasheet doesn't state it does. So will easily heat a big cylinder. But we use the immersion.

Aluminium foil and water.

An update. Mrs BB made up a paste of Bicard of Soda and a little water. Applied it to the offending handles with a finger. The washed off with some warm soapy water. Before: After: (dusty at the top due to work I was doing today)

Usually just proper duct tape, much as that may feel to be a bodge it isn't. Some duct will require a female adaptor, so the duct can slide inside, and others vice-versa, so you'll need to get exact sizes and compare the products internal and external dimensions to be sure Jack will fit into Jill.

Than thanks Nick. Do I secure the reducer with screws? Or a glue of some sort?

I'm your man

Makes a change from counting the number of windows.

You won't really have any option tbf, and the EPS is far friendlier to make a trough into. Then you have zero requirement for cutting or faffing with the PIR, which is a PITA to do. This is what happens when you are left in a room on your own with excess time, to start imagining things which are just never going to actually happen....... Snap out of it!!!! Conduit or duct for cables, yes, and I do these with 32mm or 40mm waste pipe, with a pair of 45's each end to soften the bend radii. 10mm T&E will zoom down a 32mm pipe (duct) with ease if it's from the kitchen wall to the island for eg, but don't expect to run this all the way back to the consumer unit!

No, it's only aimed at UFH because that's where we mainly use it in the UK. This stuff is used right across Europe from small domestic installations to huge industrial ones. Here's another articles (obviously with manufacturer input) about it: https://www.installeronline.co.uk/plumbing/multilayer-composite-piping-mlcp-what-installers-need-to-know/ https://www.cibsejournal.com/technical/smooth-operator-multi-layer-composite-pipes/ https://www.bdonline.co.uk/buildings-design-and-specification/lets-be-specific-mlcp-qa-with-james-griffiths-uponor/5126836.article https://www.uponor.com/en-gb/products/drinking-water-systems/innovative-projects-utilising-mlc-and-pex-pipes This product is not a bodge and it's not only for ufh.

My remaining thoughts are that I think I would want a duct, rather than direct bury. I'd want to be able to swap things out if there was a problem. If you are willing to put on top of the 150mm eps, then insulation not so needed. Could run individual pipes in conduit then so you could always pull/replace the pipes (like they do in many european countries). Much lower profile this way too.* I'm sure you've got another duct going in for electric stuff but I would try and put at least one more in for future needs. Probably won't use it but if a future need develops and you haven't got it then you are in a world of pain. * No expert so don't know if there is a flaw in this approach I'm not thinking of.