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What fixings are you planning to use? This will guide you more in terms of type of nailer. I presume you want full round head stainless steel nails? In that case you'll want either a coil, 21 degree or 34 degree framing nailer with a no mark tip, not a second fix nailer that uses brads.
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Electrical conduit for bringing armoured cable into house?
Nickfromwales replied to flanagaj's topic in Electrics - Other
Ok, so we need cable sizes, eg outside diameter, to comment. What are these cables for? - Today
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I have been putting in foul drainage this week and now need to put the conduit in for the 2 * 23 KVa cables that will come under the lintels and into the plant room. I do have a 54mm diameter hockey stick and was wondering whether to just put two of those in, or am I better off using another type of conduit? Thanks
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Gone back a bit to codex as scout and patch suggester ! . Chat validates if patch is good . Codex tends to wander a bit but when it works it works ! . Saves a bit of time . Still have pi harness and local 120b as fallback . More impressive was minstrel ! Understanding properly implied time “ play Coldplay from yesterday “ , “ play Coldplay album I played last Tuesday “ , “ play album I had on last evening “ . Not linked to Postgres yet nor lms playback ( chat refuses to jump testing first !!! ) . Minstrel also extremely good at “mis hearing “ e.g whisper translate so “ play yeller by foldplay” gets converted correctly !
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Our plans clearly state that our sink waste was via a back inlet bottle gulley. Exactly as the image from Wavin below shows. The builder ignored my plans and instructions and decided to not put lintels in for the soil pipe to exit through the property. I then had a long argument with him regarding this and he said that you don't do this and a bottle gulley is used in the old school way, with the sink waste exiting through the wall. He's talking complete tosh and I have just sucked it up. The one benefit is that it means one less hole in the Radon membrane to have to worry about the detailing for getting it sealed correctly, the downside is an ugly pipe (albeit on the Northern side) which is just a path at the back that you don't really notice. But it's really niggling me and I am wondering whether coring a hole through the wall it going to cause other issues later on?
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ive got a DeWalt and a Makita 2nd fix gun, much prefer the DeWalt. It seems to "wind up" before it punches, where the Makita just comes down like a ton of bricks which makes it difficult to handle. Both are big units like but both work well, the DeWalt uses angled brads which are a bit harder to come by. DeWalt wins for me though, but make sure you wear a belt as it pulls your trousers down if its hanging off a loop. With hilarious consequences.
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Urban wind generator or waste of time/effort?
SteamyTea replied to Bancroft's topic in Wind Generation
I would sell them to the council. Could save them £1000s on each sale. Probably where the myths that renewables are expensive, and don't work, comes from. -
Will need one of these quite soon for the timber cladding. I would prefer De Walt cordless as we have gone down the De Walt route but recommendations for any make are welcome. Thanks in advance
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Urban wind generator or waste of time/effort?
saveasteading replied to Bancroft's topic in Wind Generation
It appears to be on a pole along with a small solar panel. It likely powers a street light which illuminates the adjacent footpath. -
Condensate / tundish / water softener drain?
Alan Ambrose replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in General Plumbing
OK many thanks for those thoughts. I see the Hotun tundish guys re pipework say: "Polypropylene (PP), Modified Plasticized Polyvinyl Chloride (MuPVC) or High-Density Poly Ethylene (HDPE) are all acceptable materials." So, I'm leaning towards one of those, probably in 40 or 50mm as the tank I'm looking at has 1" BSP connections (i.e. ~31mm ID) and a long run so suggests I need to go 2 sizes up. Also a waterless trap. -
Rodding points or inspection chamber for rainwater
john0wingnut replied to lizzieuk1's topic in Rainwater, Guttering & SuDS
Hopefully ok to jump in on this thread. I'm muddling through our rainwater drainage design into our storage pond. Has been no discussion on chambers and rodding points etc, however, B.C have laid down chapter and verse about having a headwall on the pond outlet, as it will erode the bank. I havent found any info / regs citing this as a requirement, except when discharging into main rivers and public water courses, which my pond is not. Wondered whether you have had the same requirement stipulated? -
running cooling mode? noises
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Yep, agree. -
No, not high enough to mitigate wind disturbance Would they have applied?
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Any recommendations for tanking this plant room?
saveasteading replied to Great_scot_selfbuild's topic in General Flooring
It is called CPD. Learning that some people see the world a different way can be interesting, or concerning. There's only me and thee that are always correct, except thee sometimes. But I appreciate that to learn new stuff I have to clear out some older knowledge...my excuse. -
I noticed this wind turbine the other day (outlined against the solar panels) on the edge of a new development. Surprised for two reasons: First, will it actually achieve anything meaningful? It's quite low and surrounded by houses and some high trees to the south west (where prevailing winds come from). How/why has the local planning department agreed to it? It doesn't seem to fit the criteria required for personal wind turbines, even permitted development rights.
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Texecom home security products
trialuser replied to SilverShadow's topic in Networks, AV, Security & Automation
Perfectly put. In the past Texecom have had loads of trouble with power supplies and batch troubles with various detectors. The app is old fashioned, so are the keypads. You can join their own forum and see what people are moaning about. I have had two texecom system for the past 15 years which I add to and 'upgrade' now and then and it hasn't moved on much at all. I don't love it but it does work as an intruder alarm though but has never been triggered in anger. You can often find their stuff new old stock on ebay. -
UK ‘built for climate that no longer exists’
sgt_woulds replied to SteamyTea's topic in Environmental Building Politics
Ah OK, I re read Part G and you are correct, it is 125 litres of 'wholesome water'. But we should never let the facts get in the way of a good discussion... 🙂 -
As any limit will apply to any one single door with the total width of the opening being irrelevant, and you said 3.5m, I assumed you must be referring to a minimum opening of 7m with two 3.5m wide sliding doors. With a sufficient number of doors, doubtless you could do it in PVC e.g. 7 sliding doors each 0.5m wide. Probably going to look a bit shit though. Are you thinking of two doors each 1.75m wide and 2.7m high ? Or perhaps 3 doors each 1.2m wide, requiring three tracks ? Maybe type ''how wide can a upvc sliding door be'' into google AI ?
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Decoupling Mats AND Expansion Joints on Tiled Floor
Arrenite replied to Arrenite's topic in Floor Tiles & Tiling
Russell, the biggest room is 11 metres long, by 6 metres wide. -
Weather Comp + independent zone valve
Mr Blobby replied to Mr Blobby's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Still not heard back from the supplier/installer with prices. I don't think we will after I challenged his wisdom. In the meantime, I think our planning has been a bit suboptimal, which seems to happen a lot on our build. We have two holes cored for flow and return from plant room to heatpump on other side of wall, so that's ok. The question is what's the best way to run the data and power cables? The HP has 2 power connections so 2 isolators are required on the external wall. We do have two conduits through the slab from the plant room, one for power and one for data, but they exit about 5 metres around the corner from the heatpump, and may end up being more congested than I would like. What's best to do here? Run the cables through the slab and then through conduit on either the wall or underground to the heatpump? Or would it be neater to core out a three more holes for 2 power and one data in the wall to exit at the heatpump? -
Fine tuning my IWI Solid wall (Warm Batten) design
lookseehear replied to Annker's topic in Heat Insulation
I've got very uneven walls and my plan is to build the stud wall on the floor then stand it up and get it plumb and straight, then using a laser and a level go stud by stud packing and screwing to keep it level. You can do it in relatively small sections. -
Fan Coil Units for use with a (cooling) ASHP
JohnMo replied to ProDave's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Good indication you aren't getting much heat transfer. -
Decoupling Mats AND Expansion Joints on Tiled Floor
Russell griffiths replied to Arrenite's topic in Floor Tiles & Tiling
There’s a big difference between expansion joint and a movement joint. what sort of area are you talking about, I have probably 50-60 m in one area with no expansion joints, but I do have 3-4 movement joints where the large area joins thin smaller areas. I was always told that was the place cracks would occur. imagine the shape of a tennis racket, it will always crack where the head joins the handle. I also have movement joints in every doorway. -
Any recommendations for tanking this plant room?
Alan Ambrose replied to Great_scot_selfbuild's topic in General Flooring
>>> you send the neighbours round to isolate the leaking component If I sent my neighbours round, they'd probably set fire to the place .
