All Activity

Back up and running, fault code cleared. It’s a real mystery. It does a lot of moving during power up, half open, half closed, fully open, fully closed finally reverting to fully closed (or the other way around, but a lot of moving nonetheless). I’d add a video but it’s too big, is that 2MB limit a new thing? Or have my pictures/videos got bigger??

I’ll keep an eye on that but I’m sure it’s been opening and closing a fair bit over the summer, I generally just leave it to do its thing but if I select ‘night ventilation mode’ I’m pretty sure selects the bypass open, I’ll have to check the manual. Anyway, all glued up so I’ll chuck it back together and hope for the best, if it fails I think I’ll get a flapper thingy 3d printed because I don’t suspect Brink we’ll sell me just that little bit.

Probably a good idea once fixed to operate the bypass from time to time to discourage it from sticking again.

It certainly does and certainly is. I just can’t fathom why there would be any resistance to the flapper moving.

Clearly the motor has rotated, probably during the power up after I’d cleaned the filters, but the flapper was stuck so the motor broke out of the plastic moulding. What ‘stuck’ the flapper is the mystery.

That looks like a weak design, so anything you can do to beef it up a bit would help. I would perhaps be looking at some type of metal sleeve or strapping to go over the repair.

Agreed Dave. Turns out I’ve found the problem. That little bit of plastic has broken off the bypass flapper thingy allowing the motor to rotate without moving the flapper. I shall superglue it back together, actually I’ll probably superglue the flapper to the motor, I don’t think the flapper needs to be removable from the motor. The only good thing is how easy it is to work on this Brink.

I think the video showed the bypass unit being replaced with a new one, not the old one put straight back. There can't be much to it, a motor to move the flap and a switch to show the controller that the flap has moved? My guess is (like my different make mvhr) at power up tt closes then opens the bypass, checking for the feedback from the switch that it has moved, and of not flags an error.

Crikey! That was easier than falling off a log. No obvious signs of impairment though so I guess I’ll just give it a quick clean (it’s not really dirty) bung it back in and hope for the best.

Looks like I may have found the answer to my second question, and I don't even need to brush up on my French

F*ckety f*ck. I've just changed the filters in the MVHR and after switching it back on all seemed normal but I've now got the little spanner symbol and 'Error E103' on the MVHR display. The full message is: Error E103 E1200 Bypass General Error The manual makes no mention of E103 but has the following to say regarding the E1200 code: Does any one know anything else about the E103 code? Does anyone know how I get at the Bypass to see where it is and what it is or isn't doing? Any other pearls of wisdom will be gratefully received as well.

If it is for surface water, a slot drain can look very neat.

After a frustrating time getting damaged deliveries of channels, I scrapped using a recommended supplier from this here hub and found a new supplier closer to home where a perfectionist could collect and transport the good themselves. Also, the top rail came in one piece (5750mm cut to length) which was an interesting 27 mile drive on top of a Volvo V50. But we have started... First piece not quite vertical as two wedges missing from kit. Being posted out to arrive over weekend

There must be a prettier option than having this on my patio?

Fairly clearly if you bought the property without the presence of this large sewer being clearly communicated at the time of purchase - and indeed covered by the solicitor/conveyencer through the questionnaire process with the previous owner - then you may have a good legal claim against the previous owner, your solictor, their solicitor etc etc. Drain search should also be a standard thing - sewer maps readily available from the utility - often free. Also a need to check your house insurance, as if the sewer collapsed damaging your property would you actually be covered ? Also are you upstream of your neighbour that has presumably illegally built over this sewer ? Should his building collpase the sewer your property could be inundated with er... Did you and your neighbour buy your properties new from a builder/developer ? Could be a legal case against them. The street of properties I am on has a shared sewer running under everyone's front garden - a couple of the gardens have access manholes. Nobody could sensibly build in the front garden forward of the existing building line, and no-one has. The sewer is pretty deep. Has absolutely zero effect on the house prices and everyone drives their cars over it on front drives all the time. Ask a lawyer but I might imagine any attempt by ST to claim a simple garden shed or similar had damaged a sewer which should be well deep and well constructed wouldn't stand a cat in hell's chance in court. If ST are claiming any significant inhibition to the use of the land then I would have thought that should perhaps have been entered against the deeds of the house as a covenant/restriction ?

Hi all Thank you for your comments. I have spoken to Andrew, the VATMan, he is really helpful. Some of the errors were purely where some of the invoices had my name on as delivery address but not on the "Invoice to" part of the invoice. They have knocked back the vented induction hob, I know some people on here say they have allowed theirs. It includes a vent so I think there should be some part of the VAT to be reclaimed, but hey ho. With the Ikea PAX wardrobes, its really annoying. The are fitted, I have taken a photo, but hear that you have to be able to see the wall behind? and they should have only one shelf and a rail (god knows what difference that makes). I have taken another photo of the said one shelf and one rail and will re submit, its only £300 being claimed but I think it is principle here, particularly when they say you can claim as long as they are fitted and you provide photographic evidence, which I did! Kind regards to you all.

High ventilation will work in some situations, but will lead to the inside of the garage being near the outside temperature. If you have big swings overnight so its 15C during the day but falls closer to freezing overnight then you will likely find chunky metal objects don't change temperature as fast as the room so as the room warms, higher humidity (warm) air enters and touches still cold metal and condenses. If you live near the sea this will be particularly bad as the sea air will be more humid than average.

Late to the party but I'll add my thoughts Background (to my garage issues) Attached single garage, single skin brick, wooden trusses with concrete tiled roof, no insulation, no loft boarded - only entry point up and over metal door and no window It was horrible in summer as the south facing roof gathered all the heat from the sun and radiated it down into the garage - with only one entry it was impossible to get a airflow thro it It was horrible in winter, pretty much same temp as outside - tools went rusty, wood got mouldy In spring and autumn I saw lots of issues with condensation as a result of temp swings It was too small to store both a car and a motorcycle so sub optimal for my car and motorcycle habit Action I extended it (doubled the length to a tandem garage) added a SUDG'd side door and a SUDG'd window at the back of the extension - same roof type. Fully boarded the ceiling with plasterboard, Added loft insulation between the trusses and then chip-boarded the floor for light storage. Fitted an insulated roller shutter door. According to my temp monitoring It's never been below freezing in the winter - typically it never goes below 5 Deg C It's never been above 26 Deg C in the summer - I can open side door, window at the back and the roller shutter a foot or so and when I'm fabricating in there the thro draft keeps the air clear. I bare metalled a car door that had a big crease in it filled with filler - pulled the crease out welded up the holes and was going to put some paint on it but hung it on the wall awaiting paint - I've never actually got round to that - it's still not rusty!!! I've a complete bare shell from a classic rally car that was shot blasted and etch primed years ago (it's my retirement project if I ever get to retire!!!) So my advice is insulate the heck out of it - make sure you have the option to ventilate when needed and set up some form of monitoring that can give you the heads up when humidity or temp is likely to be a problem I use sonoff TH-100 with a single sensor for temp and humidity and it will log hourly data for both temp and humidity and store it for up to a year - it uses a tiny amount of power and it's connected to the house wifi and with an app on my phone I can view it whenever I want. I think I paid £25 for the unit and sensor (It can be linked to devices and programmed to switch on or off at preset points - ideal if you want to run a dehumidifier or greenhouse tub heater)

The location of such a pipe under your garden is something you should consider at time of purchasing the house. If such a pipe exists, and you really want to build an extension or outbuilding, it would be simpler just to look for a different house that does not have such a "feature"

A modern glass induction hob is less than 5mm thick. I admit that a flush fit may look a tiny bit better but I'm sitting here looking edge-on to my island hob and it isn't exactly unsightly (unlike that glass gas monstrosity above) I would suggest that the astonishingly marginal benefit of easier cleaning is vastly outweighed by the cost and complexity of the install, plus the risk of a replacement not fitting correctly Regards Tet

It's the number of outlets that controls the capacity. The gutter can be infinitely long as long as there are enough outlets. However, a long slope can pour dramatically into or over it if it is small.

It's normal 112mm guttering, this is used on the rest of the house and it seems odd that it can take the water off the main roof which is twice the size but couldn't handle this - also it might look a bit odd?

Thanks folks, I really appreciate the input. Latest still doesn't feel completely right, but I'm getting there perhaps? I actually bought an over-soffit ventilator to get the measurements, I find it quite flimsy for supporting the tiles - they obviously do their job but I'm unimpressed. I don't think there is actually any point to ventilating anything here as far as I understand - the ventilation needs to go on below the ply in the 50mm void between ply and insulation which I will provide with a soffit vent strip at the eaves and a Glidevale Monovent at the top end. In which case might I just as well cut a tilting fillet out of timber? I'm dead set on a wet verge, I can't stand the look of the modern dry verge facias you see, but I'm not sure I've got the cement board right. I've drawn 12mm cement board, which I think exists, simply to match the ply. I had in mind for the ply to stop on the inner leaf an inch or so back from the cavity.

Maybe a shepherd's hut or mobile home? Something moveable, probably limited to being on a compacted stone bed they can be dug easily, not a poured slab. I'm not endorsing anyone but some of these are pretty fancy! https://happynesthomes.co.uk/two-bed-mobile-home/

On our old house the tarmac drive went tight up to the concrete garage floor, just a little lower, I guess to minimise water being driven into the garage. The drive sloped away from the garage. Just poured our garage slab/floor and I went for level, but didn't achieve it. I need to self level a portion to stop liquid collecting at the back of the garage. I guess that is DPC showing? In which case any concrete should end up below that anyway. What is the channel? Sounds like you may need a step at the fire door.