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Currently under going a home insurance claim due to impact. A neighbours brand new car was reversed into our front room. The insurance company are saying that the bricks of our house are unusual and hard to source? Can anyone confirm this is the case please?

Is the roof being converted too? If not, insulating the walls is pointless.

@ProDave Can you remember if this has to be fitted to the flue pipe first (I suspect it needs tightening but I can't tell from the image) or can the flue pipe be inserted through it once it is in place in the wall. It makes a difference to me in planing the date for the insulation. Thanks

Henry hoovers are just bombproof.

builders "finished" in 2023. Then i spent a good 6 months working through the snags they left behind. Most joists are in pockets but there were a few like in the photo.

Used these previously, from the same supplier who’s based in Poland iirc. Low loss header for a bit of volume, but primarily for hydraulic separation. https://culmstoreseltermltd.co.uk/en_GB/p/Low-Loss-Header-40kW%2C-1-insulated/221 Another, more compact solution, but the 25L version would give better results methinks. 50L better again if you’ve got room. For just the other £100 or so I’d go for this https://culmstoreseltermltd.co.uk/en_GB/p/Buffer-Cylinder-Volumiser-VOLANO-TERMICO-PDC-25l-/357 These are mild steel so you need to be well dosed with inhibitor.

Volumiser on flow, not return btw.

Makita SP6000 Dewalt D2513 as a good compromise between power and weight You may want to go up the range, but I've got the small Festool CTL SYS + DIY dust separator

The stats probably read at the lower cooler section of the heater, so you’re correct in that you see the output temp being much higher than the displayed set temp. What you need to do is dial these back in live play, to get the output temp that you require, using the stat as a ‘volume control’ vs using the markings denoted on it. I’d still say to add a primary pump and tee off a recirculating loop, maybe via a 25L or 50L volumiser, for the best long term functionality. Should see much fewer on / off switching events and max out longevity of the controls. I’d defo keep the TMV and manifold pump as is, for ultimate floor temp control. You’ve already paid for and installed them anyways.

I have a mixing valve too, but only to prevent high temperature water entering the underfloor pipes in case someone mistakenly sets the Willis thermostat too high. It's therefore set to 50°C, not the target flow temperature. But it will still mix the water temperature down a few °C as mentioned by @JohnMo. IR image below. With the Willis thermostat set to about 30°C the water coming out of the Willis at 45°C-ish and entering the floor is about 35°C. Other temperatures are misleading as some of the pipes are insulated.

Was that really new work done recently? It's a LONG time since I have seen joists fitted without joist hangers. Not since I was a boy playing on building sites at weekends (as you did then before elf and safety) and I remember thinking even then, gosh is 3 nails banged into the end grain all that is supporting that joist. And back then, it was.

Yes that is the thing. Just check it is the right size for your stove flue.

I only ever do a pair of D1 max into one D2 and that goes to one trap on one branch off the stack where practicable. Theres no problem if its a 40mm pipe coming off that picks up more than one trap, and the other traps collect water from appliances. See here where D2 is on a 40mm run that picks up both discharges from the softener that sits in that chair. Nowt wrong with this setup.

Where is that 🤯

He uses his words well lol.

Yes, but you can push back. In my experience, most BCO aren't up to date with current regulations anyway, so going back with a reasoned argument and references to the regulations will mollify them. Our standard responce to BBA questions for our woodfibre insulation: We don’t have a BBA for our wood fibre boards and It is not mandatory to carry this certification for building regulations compliance; regulation 7 (1) states that CE marking and the appropriate Declaration of Performance can be used to establish the suitability of a product for its intended use. Additional national or international technical specifications are referenced in Section 1.14 and Independent certification schemes are in Section 1.15. These are not mandatory and it is stated that they ‘may be in addition to, but not conflict with, CE marking’. Our products are all CE-marked, and the DOP information is available on our website I would suggest to get a WUFI calculation for whichever system BRUCE chooses. This should also help with BCO approval. Back to Earth offer WUFI assessments for their IWI systems - I'm sure they will try to pursuade you away from unnatural insulations to more healthy options though... 🙂

Welcome. For "Utility connection – specifically Drainage/Waste water", we don't have a sub-forum for the utility connection side of waste water, so please post in https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/130-waste-sewerage/

This summer we paid.... £11250 for electricity from UK power networks. maximum of 8 metres from other side of the lane to our green temporary cabinet. £6500 for water for a dig from the near side of the lane. probably 2-3 metres. No gas

I put planings down about five years ago a steep driveway with a tight turn, in an area with high rainfall. It's held up amazingly well. I'm going to patch a few places this winter but all things considered I would certainly recommend. I find it looks pretty much like tar, nothing wrong with the look of it at all, so long as you pull out the chunks of road paint and cats' eyes...

I think I have found it:

Always Terram down first in my book. Temporary surface on top is a discussion depending on the site size and use.

easily sorted, but you know, i shouldnt have had to do it. Crap workmanship.

Pls see @MikeSharp01 comment below which clearly says it better than I ever could. Thankfully he woke up this morning with a clear head, unlike you and me that get into discussions late at night when we should probably be getting some sleep, or at least I know I should've been! 😁

Road planings work well, not the best looking but consolidate to a solid, tough surface allowing water to drain through.

I'm a long time woodworker and my basic rule is - the more detailed/better/bespoke the finish needs to be, the more expensive tool I go for. You could also say the closer the tool's job is to the final product, the better the quality needed. So, I have a couple of Festool tools (Domino, sander and track saw) but, at the other end of the scale I've got belt sanders that I've got free off Facebook marketplace. I suppose my middle of the road sweet spot is Bosch. They seem to have the right balance of quality, price, capability and - importantly for corded tools - long power leads.