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OP said they already had 30kwh battery. There is a cycle life and therefore a cost per cycle and of course cycle efficiency to update my first order approximation.....

Thanks. All the blurb i can fins suggests there needs to be a fan somewhere, you a PIV for them to work. But it seems they are a mystery product, theres just no info beyond the basic website description. Im attracted to the concept as, essentially theres nothing to go wrong, and doesnt use any power. Which seems to good to be true. And we all know what normally means!

Just be aware post october 23, much has been tightened up in BCO land. They do now bear at least a small amount of responsibility for what they sign off, where, previously, they didnt. You may find they now want "evidence" from a qualified professional to support your assertions, even though your proposals are pretty conventional. That means paying for reports, such as WUFI, for example. But they might not. No way of knowing until they are involved. I know what id do, but thats very different to Redbeard. Clearly he has encounterd sensible BCO's to date. Do let us know how you get on though. Ill be doing similar in another year or so.

Lap, rhymes with cr.. Probably the worst, least reliable accessories I've ever come across. You won't have any problems with Click Mode

I taped mine up the walls and the studs. two layers of insulation with staggered overlaps then a thin slip sheet before the UFH. the slip sheet is also taped up the walls my dpm is taped up more so the slip sheet is also taped to this. can you get any insulation in the studs below screed level? Easier to put in first and gives something to tape onto. Then maybe some noggins for the plasterboard later. I presume you’re having UFH, all the layers you tape up the walls and studs should be neat and tight. This gives something for the expansion foam something to stick to in the studs where there would otherwise be nothing.

On my phone but quickly. He went to Strathallan so his weight may be under estimated.. Yes technically the screed will crack further. The screed had no residual tensile strength due to the UFH pipes. So it really works in direct beating only. On balance the packaging is likely not suitable. The screed has a small aggregate and thus aggregate interlock is less reliable. But the shrinkage still remains.

Still ongoing. Hope to put my last insulation order in soon. The points you get can be used across all the group sites but I haven’t purchased much more on the other sites.

Do you use the fancoils much?

My advice (for reasons I have stated, particularly on subsequent sale) would be to do it under BC. Re floor insulation you need your exposed perimeter/area ratio to work out the 'base case U value, from which you can work out the base-case R, then add that to the R value of your to get the combined R, then 1/R = U. I'm a bit concerned about the VCL cradle, which puts your VCL on the wrong side of the insulation, but maybe I have misunderstood.

Yes, but does the floor screed move or crack under the foot of Xander Fagerson? And will the tv packaging be strong enough?

I think Aereco had the original design. As I understood it it's just a strip of nylon that expands and contracts with humidity. 20Pa really isn't that much. 100000Pa is 1 Bar or about 14psi.

Thanks again to you good folks, @Redbeard & @Roger440 etc for your most helpful but cautionary words. Its now thrown me into a quandary whether to inform them (BC) or not! I'd indeed prefer all were 'recorded' & certified, given the effort & £'s involved. Referring back to the initial/2020 application, an officer inspected the bare room (old plaster already hacked off) & I definitely outlined my intention of continuing with vapour open materials (with existing 9" old brick in lime mortar+repointed in lime) + I outlined the IWI to be WF + hemp lime; I maybe did or didn't specify exact inches of that insulation. U-values not mentioned. I did refer to 'not having excessive depths of build up' to avoid 'the interstitial'. Visiting officer didn't especially specify or emphasise any requirements yet seemed 'pleased' with all my referencing details of my methodology. (This project still unfinished so we can never be sure if it'd be signed off, but who knows). Furthermore, I renovated a suspended floor 2yrs ago, under a BN, insulating 'under' using a VCL as cradle to hold 140-150mm Rockwool, +membrane 'atop'. The officer signed it off even with my honestly declaring the amount of rockwool (surely inadequate to meet Regs @ U=0.25). I get the 'feeling' BC flexible if one pains to strive to honestly do ones best to comply . . . or am I just becoming too self assured & a rude awakening awaits me!? I'll post further developments from time to time.

You have what you have, you seem to want run an on off system and have loads of modulation immediately. It isn't going to happen, the boiler has plenty of work to do playing catch up. Then you switch it off again. Thick stuff - 25mm wall thickness, cover in aluminium tape to stop mice eating it.

It does to the lay person.. but to the electronically and folk minded to treat their heating system as a hobby it's not.

As I said, you have made a simple system very complex. I think you are trying to reinvent the wheel. For systems that have already been designed tested and approved, overlaying a 24v system, just seems OTT.

This is the key safety control. That needs to be coupled with a safety device that stops the cold feed exceeding the safe working load of the cylinder and an expansion vessel if need be. Ideally the flow pressure regulator should be set to say 2/3 of the safe working load top to prevent over stress in the rest of the system. In my view you can play with your electronic controls as much as you like, as they are not safety critical. As always,I mention that at some point you may not be able to maintain this, say you go senile! At some point you may wish to sell the house and if you want to maintain the asset value you'll have to make a case for that. Remember to earth everything electronically.

I cannot imagine that the heat pump can overheat the cylinder so I have discounted that issue. My motivation for wiring as it is was just protection for the immersion but also so I could add the PV control later. I looked at the details of your system and thought I might give it a try at some point. There are several other probes in the tank pockets - one for the heat meter, one for the heat pump and one for the BMS monitoring. There are so many safety systems in this system my failure mode analysis (FMA) figured all would be OK. Here are the bare facts: The immersion has a stat of its own that limits the water temperature it can achieve. The immersion has a over temperature cutout should it get that far. The tank has a temperature and pressure safety device. The BMS probe has an upper limit setting that can raise an alarm at a chosen set point (85oC variable) The 24V system has the over temp cutout and the temperature control cutout I could put them in line with the immersion - one or both, but doing so would limit the ability to use all the PV up to 80oC when you wanted only 50oC from the standard cycle. I did consider taking a feed from the immersion live connection, at the immersion and using the BMS logic to tell me if it is powered up when it should be off but have discounted the need for this as the protections above mean it is not really needed. I did figure the Heat Pump would do the whole job but having an immersion as a standby makes sense to me.

I can understand why if it avoid design stupidity (or (expletive deleted)uppery, whichever you prefer)

Where are the battery costs in your numbers?

So based on the flow rates, it's around 400m² property - that's a big retirement pad. If it isn't that big you are going to massively over ventilate and maybe suffer a very dry indoor environment in winter to get 6kW.

Its far from clear how these work. Google not much help either. What causes the air to move when they are open, as it says you need 20ps air pressure difference?

It was actually New Years Eve day, but I do wish I was more brazen about getting cracking on and not worrying about the neighbours.

House is 1/3 of yours 113m2 however it is a stupid T shape with many rooms having 3 external walls which in a 1980’s house hurts. what I would say however is heating 24/7 with or without setbacks for me is actually not much of an increase on heating via a schedule with much higher flow temps for shorter periods morning and night - house temp swings were dramatic - far too easy to overheat the house and it never felt as comfortable as it does now. (Less than £50 a year from memory) what really triggered the move to 24/7 was that I would run the CH at the weekend all day and Monday would always be really low usage compared to the rest of the week - simple when I thought about it - I’d warmed up the internal fabric of the house over the weekend and on Mondays it gave it up again…..

Lewis decking is a good idea, but it won't need UFH. I wouldn't use air to heat the house, it's a poor way to put heat into the slab. You want a uniform and constant temperature that only UFH can provide. I have visited a certified passive house that didn't have UFH, it's was a disaster.

That makes 2 of us and we have built it and have been living in a very airtight build with MVHR now for 5 months now. The costs to run the ASHP have been similar to the 2 bedroom cottage we were living in on site whilst building and what is immeasurable is the lack of a need to open a window. We always said that we probably would open windows, as I did not truly believe that MVHR could take the fresh external air and make it 'fresh' but we just haven't needed or wanted to. Living in a well sealed box with air fed from a system might sound crazy, but it is a complete gamec hanger. We have a large footprint with only 2 upstairs bedrooms we have UFH on the ground floor with FCU's in the bedrooms and we have not felt too cold or too hot. It all just works and we barely think about it.