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Exactly. There are chances and hassles I'll take on for a personal project, whereas for a client I'd accept the norm. I've been challenging the easy norms for decades. It results in better knowledge, the good ideas becoming standard details then improving every project thereafter. The bad ideas rejected and knowing why. Back to the original post. We don't want heat loss from the hot pipe, especially to the cold pipe. I considered the @SimonDproposal for a bit, using the insulated pipes in a duct... if it ever failed they could be pulled out and replaced with uninsulated pipes. But the 2 subbies are now on board my way so it will go alright. I've even found 2 lengths of so-called barrier pipe with the magic layer of coloured plastic... it's just normal pipe. The guidance above is sensible. Building moves and pipe fails? wont happen: each pipe will be continuous so no joints. They can move within the eps. They are 150mm below the screed so won't be screwed into. The ends will be apparent as the pipes will pop up into view. If ever the pipe needed changing, there is tile, screed pir.... not destructive. I know this is ott, but we have this opportunity to exceed expectations. As for the bco... they trust us. We welcome any query. When we adopt novel approaches we explain. If necessary we present it formally for their files. Only my time has been expended and I am foc And your time for which thanks

@SimonD Is this available online somewhere? I've found https://waterregsuk.co.uk but that doesn't seem to have the same content as the photo you posted.

Won’t the eps / compactfoam compress with the load tho? i should say I have a similar detail coming up, so I’m v interested in a robust solution.

Such an important bit of advice. Most bolts are overtightened.

Copper grease is your friend with stainless-on-stainless. I learned this after I managed to completely seize one of the stainless nuts that holds my ASHP stand down, halfway onto the threaded bar. Apparently galling is a thing.

What's 'High Specification ’ ? What she says is....

Current MBC PH TF project is all Norrsken, and they are all going to be completely off the slab and atop the EPS with 20mm of (Compacfoam) CF200 set in situ to take the loads (biggest slider is <4m iirc). Same on last few with raft founds (Rational and Velfac) with zero issues tbh. I just asked the installers to go all-in on the side and head brackets, and made sure the CF or Bosig is set down very robustly. Threshold can be strapped too if needed, but by the time these are set down onto foam and CT1/other, the sheer weight stops these things from moving about at all.

I have forwarded the UFH stapler to @Great_scot_selfbuild

Have you looked at loft legs? They could raise the height to give you more space for ducting, cables and insulation. It will reduce height though. I am not sure why you are proposing membrane.

Are you making the house airtight, throughout? Need to understand where exactly you intend to stop and start any membranes. If you're going belt & braces, then the ducts should lay on the plasterboard between joists, packed with insulation, with more insulation on top open to the cold attic. Any membrane should be underneath the joists, as with all the cables etc above it'll be a pig to detail. Going to need some attention to details here, and a lot of time and patience. Is this part of a major refurb?

I'd use leftover walk-on glazing....

Only ever done DHW in 28mm, but haven't used a cylinder smaller than 300L for a good few years.

Hello! We are preparing to self-install (or contract out) a MVHR retrofit in the cold loft of our bungalow, but we have a few questions for the prep stage! Quite a lot of our electrics are in the loft& attached to the current boards. These will be removed for insulating, so we aim to attach the cables to the floor joist sides instead. Should the order of layers go: 1) membrane > insulation up to joist level > layer of ducting with insulation around it above joists > loft boards 2) insulation up to joist level > membrane across joists > layer of ducting with insulation around it > loft boards 3) ducting with insulation around within and above joists where necessary > membrane above joists and ducting ( > potentially a layer of insulation above joists and ducting so the membrane is on the warm side?) > loft boards 4) something else? We’re open to any alternative ways as we’re not sure which is correct! We are also not sure if we need an intelligent membrane, VCL or just airtight? For reference, the joist depth is appx 8cm and the roof is ventilated at the eaves. The floor was sealed with VCL over the subfloor but under a plywood base, and the house has been replastered/painted (still some new cracks though!). Thank you!

RIP.

Drill a deeper hole and set some threaded 4mm or 5mm threaded bar in with resin. Then a nut and washer to lock it there forever. I'd use stainless, but do not over-tighten it.

You just need a 40mm one under the sink, after the trap. The gurgling is worse when you use a 'combination' aka 'appliance' trap, with the short spigot to push the appliance discharge hose on to. The issue is, these connect before the trapped water and are therefore glugging away directly under the plughole and entirely audible to the room. Combat this by installing dedicated bottle or P traps for the 1 or 1.5 bowl(s), and additional dedicated washing machine upstand type traps for the appliances. The tiny bit of noise stays in the under-sink cupboards then.

Bolt the bottom fixing to a steel plate and screw the plate to the stonework with four screws.

Urgh, so with hot tap open I depressurised it all. No water flowing. Applied electric pumo,which pressured it and hot water flowed from open tap. I kept going for 5mins,and never got a pressure rise in the cylinder. Just stayed at 0.95 bar. Is that a dead tank then?

The fitting at the wall end is fixed to the spring base - so it is just 1 hole .

A plate like the one holding the hinge, so it has more than one fixing and they are spread out.

Brilliant, thanks! I can live with a single 3", much easier to route than 2 x 110mm. I may also get an AAV for the kitchen, we fitted one in our last house to solve a problem with gurgling when the sink was emptied (although that was an island sink and the waste pipes were a bit like spaghetti junction).

That detail for the sliding door sitting on compacfoam over the insulation and partly over the concrete slab isn't substantial enough, I'd be concerned with the point load over time and potential operational issues occurring. Sliding doors need a solid base to sit on over the entire depth and needs to be level. It can sit on structural insulation but it needs to be done right, part of it is sitting on insulation and that's asking for problems. How's the threshold being fixed in place, how is it be packed (if needed)?

This spring gate closer was a tough (expletive deleted) to install . After under a year it’s pulling out the quoin . Assume quoin is quite soft . What fixing do I need so this mofo doesn’t pull out ?

If you’re bringing the front door further out then you’re opening up the heated envelope, so it’ll all need to be insulated, floors and walls, to comply with regs. If you leave the door where it is and make a cold porch then next to nothing to worry about. Re lintel, depends if this is notifiable work and they want a footing or not.

You don’t want the old path fill inside the building, dig out, DPM, whatever insulation you can and pour a slab to suit your floor level.