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If you've got breeze coming from your sockets, it's very likely they punctured the membrane while installing the electrics - it happens a lot because the contractors simply don't understand airtightness.

The EPC should give the air pressure test result - either ‘as measured’ in this house or based on site average value.

Was there anything in your purchase 'stuff' which states an air-tightness test result. If not, ask the developer what is was. It may cost around £400 to get a basic A/T test which will give you a 'number' (in m3/m2/hr or air-changes per hour), or a fair bit more to get A/T and thermography at the same time. De-pressurise the house with the fan on a day when you can get a +10 degree C diff between inside and outside temp, and you get an IR 'pic' of the leaks. If the discrepancy between the developer's stated no. and yours is significant, ask awkward Qs.

Inside or outside the frame?

A practical option might be a smoke source e.g. incense stick or smoke pen to figure out where the worst leaks are. If they’re small leaks, there’s a system called Aerobarrier that might help. Agree though that a ‘professional’ leak test measurement would be something to go back to the developer with - particularly if the result is outside the building control limits.

Tiled? Can we see a picture? It can probably be fixed in the same spot with the right fixings.

BC and Planning are separate, so if the amendments you made via Planning are 'material' (my use of the word, not 'Material'), and have an effect on the B.Regs elements (The cladding changes from 12.5mm cement board and render to 100mm wood-fibre and render, say) then that would have an effect on the B. Regs side of things (Part L in this case, but feasibly another Part if the cement board acted as an anti-racking board and the WF didn't) then maybe you need a discussion with your BC body, but as you say, that's a private firm, not the council. So, as far as I am aware, No, your chosen BC body will do that. Note my background is all in refurb, not new-build in terms of direct dealings with BC, but I cannot see LA BC being interested in specifics of a build being 'policed' by A.N.Other BC.

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It has a continuous foil membrane. I’m assuming it’s not taped well or it’s punctured somewhere

Just a stud wall with plasterboard It’s just a handset holder they put it right above the taps. If I could refix it and seal it will silicone I’ll just leave it there and install a new riser bar

im hoping to not replace any tiles or plasterboard for a few years

walls tanked behind tiles. would make a right mess

That's brave. Every time I've tried to remove a tile from plasterboard, I ended up replacing the plasterboard as well. Almost impossible to remove cleanly.

If that's the case the normal would be an airtightness of 3-5m³/m², so not really airtight in the grand scheme of things. With MEV you should have trickle vents as well - there are improvements you can make there (new thread) To get a timber frame airtight you need to use a membrane behind the plasterboard. I would find a double socket and unscrew from wall, clip out the pattress box and have a feel and look about. Then report back. Switch of the electric off - if you are messing about near electric.

That's your money though. Demand first. A little local pressure might help too. Such as asking thd selling agent fof "advice" " they won't have any but might pressure (oops can't think of a better word) the developer. Ask them for the specifications. Then social media... without being too disparaging at first... I've got a new house by Bodgit Ltd on "Used to be an orchard" Mews. Does anyone else have this problem of know what I can do?

Use ubbink joints then. Suspect the terminal is designed to go through roof from a cold loft that is outside the airtight envelope. If your doing some different you may have chosen the wrong product.

Swap the two tiles over?? Assumes "Modern house probably tiled straight onto plasterboard"

What material is the wall? If you could refix it in the same place solidly would you prefer that?

>>> Why don't you use ubbink foam duct? I am, this drops into 180mm foam duct. >>> You mean weathertight? I am mainly concerned about the airtightness of the ply box that is the roof (that has the foam duct running within) - there’s a membrane and a metal roof to go on top. The main problem is logistical - I’ll take a few pics when I’m up there. Ubbink (who are not good designers imo and have clearly never installed their own products in anger) seem to assume the whole contraption pokes through into an attic where it can be joined to the duct afterwards. (Although how it would be sealed, I can’t imagine.) I have the duct in place and a hole in the right place in the ply and want to install from above. Unlike some Ubbink roof terminals, this one doesn’t seem to be designed to be installed sequentially from above. If the cowling could be installed last following the 2nd sleeve that would work. But that’s not how it’s designed.

Sorry, I should have been more clear. yes I’m moving the shower head higher up the wall and want to seal the old hole. thanks

MEV and hole in the wall

It’s a timber frame house. 12.5mm plasterboard service Batten foil Vapor barrier PIR rockwool 140mm stud The way it’s leaking i wouldn’t be surprised if they skipped the test

Are you re using the hole to mount the shower head there again, or moving shower head and want to seal the old hole?

So what did they actually promise? Any figures? What ventilation system did they install? MVHR? dMEV? Intermittent running fans?