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How many rows of slates would you need to take back? Other bodges?!! None of my work hopefully lol. Thanks carl

I guess its a bit late for dropping soffits, roof is tiled and walls are bricked up. Outside is essentially finished.

I’ll get some pictures tomorrow in the daylight and post them here.

Strip the roof and re-lay. You need MINIMUM 50mm into the gutter. They are fibre cement slates fixed with nails and disk rivets. You could sort out the rest of the woeful bodges while you are at it.

A compilation of serious issues that 'New Home Quality Control' found during snagging inspections at new build homes.... https://newhomequalitycontrol.co.uk/

i got some genuine batteries at screwfix here in ireland, they where about the cheapest i could find when i bought 2.

I have done similar using resin anchors to face fix a timber ledger to the wall, then timber to timber joist hangers for the joists. It means you have more freedom in floor height and better airtightness. Your blocks should be fine for this as the ledger will have fixings every 400mm. Cleaning the drilled holes with brush and blower is key to a very strong fixing.

Hi, I'm trying to replace the fascia n gutter on this old stone building. But there isn't enough of a slate overhang to allow the water to drip into the gutter. The existing fascia has been put on out of plumb to try and overcome this but i dont want to fo this. I also want to render a bit higher up the top of the wall as the top edge of the wall is showing beneath the fascia. So do I bodge it with an extension of some sort, peice of pvc or the like or do I redo the bottom slate section, I don't have much experience with slating? I don't really want to push the fascia out so that I end up with a soffit. underneath. Any other thoughts, or ideas?

@Allthegearnoidea Worlds shittest drawing, free-styling off my iPhone atm, but should explain what I mean.

Where the new 110mm pipe travels horizontally to meet the new stack, just lower that so you can come out of the house, and drop down into a branch, and then the 50mm waste goes into the back of the branch. Saves the long 50mm waste run to the stack.

There was a pot hole here at the edge of a road that every day someone put a traffic cone in it. As soon as the council removed the cone, another one appeared, until they took the hint and filled it.

I thought it was the 400 micron for tiling etc directly on to? I’d want that spec anyways, if using this system, as it’ll be a much more efficient emitter / diffuser of heat. As above, get at least 3-5mm of SLC down, but who cares if it cracks? In actuality, it’ll be hidden under the flooring and the glued joints (and the fact it’s all glued down robustly) will keep it controlled. Shouldn’t affect the parquet at all imho. Have you checked that the parquet is suitable for 27° or above? You’ll need to run this at quite high temp to be effective at heating the room. The SLC would help a lot here, so don’t omit it!! If you can do 5-8mm or 10mm then do so. Consider mesh matting as a binder, if you’re really panicking about cracking / degradation of the SLC.

I was typing while @JohnMo was posting. His points are very valid. Why rip out if you cannot afford to re-do? If the potential cost is completely unaffordable why not ask for a staged plan?

We have similar floor buildup in our summer house, not parquet but is and laminate flooring, the performance is pathetic even at 40 degs. In the end I decommissioned it. You need the pipes in close contact with something that fully envelopes the pipe so you have zero air gaps. So a screed or self levelling compound will improve things. Your thickness needs to thick enough to stop cracking from small movements. So will depend on make and exact product you use. I would looked to a self levelling but flexible compound.

Welcome. What's the orientation? Is it conducive to solar? Do you have plans for PV? I assume the house is of cavity construction. is the cavity insulated? If money is tight I am not sure how keen you'll be to completely remove the bays and 'plant' new bays on top of EWI. EWI also needs care to avoid the risk of thermal by-pass via the cavities. If you were to go for internal insulation (IWI) you'd be limited as to what U value you could achieve, due to the risk of interstitial condensation. Detailing can also be tricky depending on the internal layout. On the other hand, assuming you do not own the land to the right, I'm not sure how practical EWI would be, either. Ideally you need to find a way to use one or the other, or a mixture of both. If perchance, there are 'viable' (50mm+ and 'clean') cavities and they are uninsulated, start with that, with EPS beads (not mineral wool, in my view).

If you can only afford to do the extension why are planning gutting the house as well? Cut your cloth according to budget. I would have an air test done and ask the guy to spend a hour going around the house finding and identifying air leaks first. Then make a plan of action to fix. Understand your current insulation and see how to upgrade cost effectively. Lofts are easy to upgrade, floor? (New floor or insulation to original), walls? (Internal or external) You plans have zero details on build up of walls, roof, flour etc, so are just a pretty picture. To get what you want the builder needs to quote based on exact specs, hoping for the best isn't going to get what you need. If you aren't airtight don't bother with MVHR, a well designed MEV or dMEV system will be more appropriate. And cost many thousands less. I would step back and get everything planned and realistic to your budget.

Hi – I am looking to replace lead valleys as one failed (split) and I did not know until it bowed the bedroom ceiling. Anyhow leak is temporary fixed but now I have decided to replace all 6 valleys. I noticed the wood valley probably needs replacing and am thinking of 9mm OSB….is that ok. Currently it looks like flooring T&G. Also I expect the water got in as there is nothing below the lead on the valley. So I’m after “belts and braces” solution and am thinking of new 9mm OSB valleys, new sarking underneath on top of 1.5mm Classicbond rubber running down the valley OSB and 2ft or so either side, then code 4 lead on top of that. I’d appreciate any comments on this and can anyone recommend a good quality sarking. The house was built in 1989 and the sarking is that bitumen based product that rots as it reaches the gutter. So I plan to fit new sarking under the old as it meets the gutter too. I’m no roofer but I am a serious DIY who has bult a large garden room and I used Classicbond on OSB for that roof as it’s a 7 deg slope. Thanks for any advice.

Looking for advice from anyone who has installed a "wunda" rapid response type UFH system. Currently installing one in a reno property but getting so much conflicting advice from manufacturers and floor installers about fixing the finished surface, which will be 15mm engineered parquet. Wunda, who are the market leader, say that engineered wood (and ceramic tile) can be bonded direct to the xps tiles. However, from googling, speaking to suppliers etc, the Wunda overfit boards and pipes are identical to all every other suppliers. The boards are all exactly the same spec which is essentially 20mm overfit, EPS400 (400KPA compression strength) boards with a 200 micron foiling on top. Whilst the boards are all the same, no one seems to be in agreement when it comes to installing the finished floor. Some say there needs to be a min 5mm SLC screed over the boards, some say min 10mm, some say min 12mm. Flooring installers say min 15-30mm? After numerous searches on installing SLC screed over the boards, I found loads of posts where people have experienced the SLC cracking - despite following instructions. With that said, it's made me a touch uneasy about this system and looking for anyone's experience. (I have since found a few influencers who installed parquet direct to the overfit and so far, they don't have any problems. (See pic))

I have done all sorts of modes of heating, including just heating during E7 period, Cosy periods etc, and by dy far cheapest (with battery and ASHP) is just letting the heat pump run on WC. A 5 degree day today and it's ticking away at a CoP of 5.78 so far today. Any sort of batch charging, can drop CoP to the mid 3s

OK, lets see what's to be done here.... (Its here) My thoughts -- its a single lane track Dry Lean mix Fill Level mark with 'spare' road furniture for a while Wait an hour or so recover the traffic cones Deny I did it Blame @Pocster ( tell them he was waiting for hair to grow on it ???) For / Against / Dunno / Don't be so daft / Steal proper road furniture and block it off good and proper Your vote please.... PS : just drop a spare bag of cement on it?😑 ?

My son drives down to Illfracombe and popped a front tire in what he described as a canyon sized pothole, got a £150 breakdown fee to get him off a bloody dangerous stretch of road, and then popped the replacement brand new tire down there on the way back home. Double ffs, with added (expletive deleted).

Folks ours are not as bad as East German roads in the 80s. Road decks that in a bit of sunshine melted enough for braking vehicles to cause a runnel across the line of traffic: meaning that at every single traffic light you drove over what looked and felt like corrugated iron sheeting. And that's the problem, generally our roads are reliable. Increasingly not so, but the vast majority of our roads is at least OK. Shoulder's aching now 😞

I was thinking this myself over the weekend when we travelled down to Stamford to see friends, there were potholes everywhere on all classes of roads. At least during the day you can weave around them but at night on unlit country roads it's just dangerous as per the OP's experience.