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Yeh don't worry I've never seen it done either. Its one of those textbook things which should be done but never is in practice.

I would not use LHZS cable, I find it horrible stuff to strip and use. Standard PVC for me.

I'll go first... Mains cables - Doncaster Cables are really good. Earthsure? Ask your electrician. Some love it, some hate it! You might find LZSH versions of T&E with a sheathed CPC, but they may not be accredited for use in the UK. Plenty of LZSH without a sheathed CPC. Prysmian cable is really good too. I'd be happy with either. For a single residential, low-rise property, the price uplift for LSZH is difficult for some to justify, but it may be important to you. I'd rather invest the difference in much better, interlinked smoke and heat alarms... From an interference perspective, this separation of data and mains cabling comes mainly from commercial installations. Unless you run your CAT6 UTP parallel to the cable for your induction hob for tens of metres, you're very unlikely to have an issue. Now, from an electrical safety perspective, don't run low-voltage and mains cabling in the same conduit, and don't have them feed into the same accessory box. Any damage to the mains cabling could end up with mains voltage on your low-voltage cable runs, so keep them separate. Where it is possible, in a parallel run, keep them at least 50mm apart. But other than that, just don't worry about it. Crossing at 90 degrees is perfectly fine. Whilst you could therefore use something like your image (assuming they are physically separated boxes) I've never really liked the aesthetic and lack of control over the gap between the data plate and the 230v mains socket. I'd always use separate back boxes. My back boxes of choice are Appleby metal back boxes and plastic cavity / dry-lining boxes, or Selectric or Niglon if looking for fire-rated metal cavity boxes.

You're wrong. Cooler feet has a huge impact on how you feel overall. I don't have UFH but do live in a building that suffers from cold floors/cold air layer at floor level in winter. The thermometer can read 23/24 at table level but 16C at feet level. In that situation I feel fairly cold. Nothing to say you need to be barefoot. Wear socks if you want, even open light slippers. You'll still feel much cooler in a space with a floor that is noticeably cooler than the air temp. Edit: Frankly, given my experience I suspect even if you wore whatever outside clothes you were comfortable with I suspect you'd still feel the cooling effect from a cool floor, just maybe not as pronounced.

Clarifying. The "wall" was dryer than standard. Then he upped the water to get to right mix. Levelling the "wall" was hard work in the heat, but it has all set off well and no cracks (that i can see throught the current muddy puddle!!) See above about my want for level. Its not got to be billiard table, but better than it is.

A bad thing to do. Explained elsewhere many a time. The driver is not allowed to do that without your signature. So when it cracks it is not their liability. How flat and level do you want it? The standard test is that you don't see any 3mm gaps under as 3m straightedge whatever the position and direction, even pressing down one end. A slight slope might not matter to you. 30mm is a lot of screed.

That's my usp. I get that. My feet are at 36°C so even the recent heatwave has been lower. Cooled floor at what? 16? So it's a feel-good for the feet, if choosing to go barefoot, but it hardly cools the body. And it's the air temperature that we need cooler. Don't we want to be at 18°C max for deep sleep? It's a luxury to have cool feet and go barefooted ( I find that unpleasant on hard surfaces) and that's an individual choice.

It's just occurred to me that another 'use case' for a shorter time constant would be a relatively rapid change in internal air temperature caused by say strong sunshine through windows or a sudden heatwave.

A couple of misc 1st fix questions if I may... Are there better mains cables than Doncaster Cables earthsure e.g. a LSZH version? Who makes the best quality ~45mm metal back boxes? I know that in a cable tray scenario data & mains should be separated. What about within walls - we're planning to separate with dividers, but will undoubtably need to cross mains cables at right angles with data/ELV at some point? Can I use something like this for mains + data? From the pic, I think the two compartments are separate. Yes, I know ... ask your proper electrician - but I'm an EE and feel happy making these choices. Also, our 1st recommended & qualified electrician on site did this, and won't be back again: Yes, that's gaffer tape as blanking plus wood screws holding the new CU front plate on FFS ... seems to me that's qualified but not competent.

I'd love to go the borehole route but the only people I have spoken to suggest it will cost something like £15k which seems crazy. £5k and I'd go for it

It's a shame, I cannot say that to building control.

Thanks John. Our Heat Pump does both heating and hot water but I'm not sure what immersion mode is trying to do when it kicks in. Maybe just supply the domestic hot water. Either way, it doesn't work as it never gets above 20° I'll have a proper look through the settings and report back.

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Really. May work if you suspend yourself naked a few mill above the floor.

Suppose the question is what are using the floor for, just parking car or stuff does some run off matter. If your building cars from it needs to be level, then use self leveling compound, dress it once set and paint with floor paint of your choice or just dust seal. Sorry not read the thread just your last question.

Thought seriously about screed but quiet costly messy and drying time etc. Also no experience etc Thought easiest option using timber route

I think the Millboard that I used is a mix of resin and fibreglass strands, with some kind of chemically bonded surface finish. I've seen cheap, more plastic like decking sag, warp and discolour in the heat. I can't imagine the Millboard would do this.

This was certainly our experience as 'newbies' ...very pleased with it, and certainly much, much better than we had expected. This is very similar to our numbers, and certainly we kept the temps below those that others were experiencing, but still way too hot to sleep comfortably which is what we're hoping for. Also worth saying that although it doesn't really cool, by reducing the humidity any given temp doesn't feel as hot as it would have done in our previous house.

Why not screed it or better still insulation and screed?

Pretty sure that's not the case....desirable maybe but far from essential. I sold my late parents house a few years ago and the buyer(likely buyers solicitor) asked for gas cert, elec cert, this cert,that cert and all manner of things. I just said none were available and the sale went through.

Bump - anyone provide an insight? TIA

Our incoming main from a borehole pump has a PVR downstream of outside tap take off. This is set to around 2.5 bar. Now the whole house including the UVC is at that pressure - you can then do what ever want with mixer taps as everything is at the same pressure. The UVC has the normal pressure regulator but it effectively doesn't need to do anything.

It has to be a basic setting messed up. Let's go back to basics Why is the immersion there - to provide additional heat when the heat pump isn't working or cannot provide enough energy heat the house. It is activated based on timers based on getting temperature water flow temperature up to an expected level. You can have the immersion heater modes set various ways and for various times. I would get the manual out and have a good read, understand what is happening. Post your settings on here - possibly your manual also. Unless you have health reasons to use it, I wouldn't bother with mode - do a risk assessment - many available online. Also are you talking about your heating or domestic hot water?

Looks like Astra has made 3d artists redundant now ! . Staggering examples . No programmers , no artists - Chuck in seedance no movie makers . Can’t imagine what will get just 6 months from now !

Mine is plastic and bamboo composite.