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Of the modern r290 ones are there any that don't support cooling?

Midea M Thermal. Pretty trivial to switch between heat/cool/both using the built in controller

Interesting to see peoples ideas on the sequence of rooms. I'd say a lot depends on just what things are currently like in different rooms. When we moved in over 30 years ago we started with the living room because it was just too depressing to sit in there. The rest of the house needed doing BUT we lived with it and bathed the kids in the existing bathroom's yellow plastic bath with a cracked side panel. It was 8 years before we did the bathroom. But we didn't have any capital as you do - however although you have capital to spend the work will be paced by your labour availability. Fabric of the building is definitely good to do, but there is a balance and phasing to think about there too. You can probably spend a lot of money - all new windows and external doors, new roof, insulation, rewire and plumb whole house, new floors and u/floor heating everywhere, new ceilings and replaster everywhere etc. But then it could be an awful long time before you even have one finished room to relax in. Some of these things can be done piecemeal - e.g. rewiring can be done room by room, circuit by circuit, or floor by floor etc. We have one consumer unit for most of the house, and another for the new extension and adjacent areas. Or you can do first fix but leave 2nd fix. If you know what the overall plan is, it can be built out in stages. And the ladies like to have somewhere nice to sit in and to do their interior design thing with. Yes you can say it is inefficient because a professional refurb would never be done that way - they would strip the whole house, trades come in and do the whole house, everywhere is a filthy dusty building site for many months on end, eventually the finishing trades come in and suddenly you get the whole swan at once. But try living in that while it is happening ! The spending choices are going to be really tough - do you spend up on a nice sofa for the sitting room - or go ikea and spend up on high density plasterboard - bog standard rads - or designer ones etc etc. Exciting though.

In fact thinking about it, the electrician asked about the aerial and said fit it and told him where to fit it, he got the got the guy out and added the cost to his bill - I did nothing except point at where to install the aerial

Haier R290 4kW, comes out the box setup for heating and cooling, wouldn't bother with R32 as R290 in the real world performs better as they are generally the next generation design.

Are there any other reversible monobloc ASHPs in the 4-5kW max output range... Daikin EBLA04 (R32 based) Vaillant aroTHERM Plus v2 3.5kW Samsung 5kW Gen 7 R290 Grant Aerona 290 4kW HPR2904 TIA

I-joist packs should always be stored covered (original wrappings, and on edge (flanges) until use. They should never be laid on flat as shown above. It doesn't matter which manufacturer, their handling and storage instructions will always say the same and incorrect storage may void any warranty claims This is especially important for finger jointed softwood flanges as lateral deflection under pressure can cause the joints to open and reduce the structural integrity; since these are likely to have been forklifted into place the risk is greater. Setting on edge not only helps to prevents physical damage to the flanges and web glues, but it also reduces the risk of structural compromise of the web from water sitting inside. (More of an issue for OSB than Fibreboard, but frowned on for both) https://www.jamesjones.co.uk/assets/uploads/files/technical-info/jji-joist-and-glulam-site-storage.pdf https://www.steico.com/uk/products/construction/i-joists/steicojoist https://forestproductsgroup.com/wp-content/uploads/Nordic-Installation-Guide.pdf Ditto for metal web joists.

Rodents chewing on them and freezing in the winter would be my worries. An alternative might be to resort to a ground bearing slab and services through the insulation. You could do UFH then too if that's what you fancied. Lots to read but the basics are incredibly simple. You just need something shoving air into the house 24/7 or sucking out 24/7. Intermittent fans don't work in practice . Whole house MVHR does both and recovers some of the heat but you'll get most of the benefit of fresh dry air by just sticking in a PIV or central extract. The price has been jacked on these recently but they're just a fan and a pipe l. https://amzn.eu/d/09i5gdyD Stick that somewhere sucking out of the hallway to outside at a low speed running all the time and the house will dry out much cheaper than running a dehumidifier. "Breathable" means about as much as "eco" or "green". Its typically used to sell stuff of higher vapour permability like lime and woodfiber. Meanwhile other stuff like gypsum and mineral wool also has reasonably high vapour permability. What you want to avoid in your situation is any foils, plastic membranes, vinyl paints etc and layering them in such a way to trap moisture. I wouldn't worry too much about cement based pointing. Make it fairly sandy and it won't trap any moisture. Cheap trade contract paint would work fine but you'll need a few layers.

When you find out, come to Penzance and sort mine out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8tEXMqkJ3qaRirKX8

Hi all, When choosing dimmable LED lighting for a bathroom, what do you normally check to avoid flickering or an inconsistent dimming range? Is it mainly a matter of matching the dimmer to the LED driver, checking the minimum load, or choosing fittings that are specifically designed to work together? I'm also interested in whether you've found any particular compatibility issues with bathroom downlights or mirror lighting, especially when dimming at lower levels. Would be useful to hear what checks have worked well in practice and what you'd recommend checking before installation.

The advice about planning the driver and cable routes before fitting the cabinets is a good point, as that could easily be overlooked until it’s too late. The opal diffuser also seems worthwhile for keeping the light looking smooth on reflective worktops. Getting the position right from the start sounds much easier than trying to correct shadows afterwards.

The photos help show how the lighting has been integrated into the kitchen. The routed channel looks like a tidy solution, and matching the colour temperature with the rooflights is a nice touch for keeping the lighting consistent. Interesting to hear how your earlier installations helped you work out what placement works best.

I was happy with the Quality of I-Joists from JJI. But laterally, they do flex, so to some extent will take the shape of what you have them stacked on, especially the 13m blanks.

Sounds like a wave function, ψ. Could do a Fourier Transformation on it.

that sounds more like Marquetry than flooring at that thickness LOL sorry mis read thought it was 2mm in total --LOL

It is measured as number of wobbles exceeding 3mm/m per 6m length. Or disturbing wobbles per length. Called a Steamy or ST. That's convincing. I must say I've never heard of such sources so that's worth knowing, and avoiding. There's a video of the production of James Jones joists. It's an endless joist which is then cut to the lengths ordered. Zero waste. The timber will be delivered daily, totally wrapped, from Scandinavia so high quality and dry.

Just whack some noggins in and get on with the next bit of the project Wood ain’t straight, but it gets pulled straight during the install. As above, have the cup of the beam facing upwards, and when you load them they'll lat flat. Just another day in the office, and nothing to worry about 🤝

Well i certainly have this as well in North Hertfordshire. But i dont have any planning conditions about water harvesting. I dont understand how they can enforce this usage limit, not in practical terms anyway. Frankly, now that i have to pay a pretty penny for every measured litre i will use whatever i like.

Hi all, for a little while now there has been a noise coming from the plant room that lasts for a few seconds when the bath filler is opened. It sort of sounds like a grinding/vibrating/fart. I managed to track the source down, and I think it's coming from the PRV. Is this a known issue with PRVs? Seems like you can replace the cartridge, or perhaps take it out and give it a clean. I have a video of the thing making the noise but the file is too large to upload, even after resizing. Any ways around this? Cheers

Agree with JpManning on the junctions. In my leak work the bathroom callouts are almost never the board or membrane failing, it is water getting behind at the tray edge, the corners or through a cracked grout line and then sitting there soaking the frame. Whichever system you pick, tanking down to the tray and over the board to tray joint is the bit worth doing properly.

Always used plasterboard plus tanking, on my many, many clients wetroom / bathroom projects. Never had a single issue or failure. I’m not a fan of the XPS boards on the walls as it doesn’t take point pressure as well, for one, but also because it’s reliant on the mechanical fixes which pull into and crush the XPS. If it ain’t broke……carry on as is. Plus, you have to tank both anyways so 🤷‍♂️

Google earth will also guide you to the transmitter. However, I found that a tweak to miss a line-of -sight tree helped a lot at the time. Presumably a professional has a machine detecting the strongest signal. Yet now it points about 45° away and works fine.

Yes and ours comes into its own about 8 days a year when the interweb fails. It has rotated in the wind to be well off pointing at the transmitter but continues to be good reception: that used to be an issue so either they have turned up the transmitter power or modern tvs can use a poorer signal.

Depends if you want to watch adverts, we record a lot and click forward through the ads. Online , ITV, C4 and C5 are full of ads, Netflix and Prime aren't much better now

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