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his problem is poor preparation nothing else it needs to be flat like a slate bed from a snooker table -absolutely dust free before you start laying -- then it easy any imperfections in floor slab will show through using a hand held 9£ grinder will never work --needs to be the unit that looks like the old school floor polisher with extraction --big and heavy

Hmm yes I think you are right, we were going to go for tiles but now my lovely partner has pointed out that vinyl will be easier to clean!

Or we could start building stone houses again but with modern cutting equipment when I looked at I found chineese company that would supply granite building blocks any size with a 1mm + or - tolerance if they can do it so can we and we plenty of granite and other stone in this country use thinset mortar and lay with a digger as i have in my many wall constructions - then just build a TF inside insulted how ever you like no external finishing and there for the next 300 years

AFAIK yes. If it's easy to try before you go down the pump route you could try that first. If you just want a PIR in the one room don't bother with a shelly, just use the PIR to switch the pump. If you want to feed from a PIR outside the bathroom (as an advanced notice with timing restrictions) then wire it to one of the Shelly's switch inputs. If you want to go wireless with the PIR wired to a transmitter and the shelly receiving it gets more complex and I would guess if you are doing pipe work it's not too much hassle to feed a cable along the route as well.

I wonder whether you can grind and then fill the grinding marks. Car body filler comes to mind, although it’s a long time since I used that

Thanks @Spinnyand @-rick- - I think I will put in the secondary loop in 15mm, and then I have options: use a pump (the Wilo SB 30 looks decent) or, if I find that setup problematic, then repurpose it as the actual feed to the shower. It would mean the hot being in 15mm and cold in 22mm, but presumably it would still work. Would you hardwire the PIR to the Shelly? I was imagining some kind of WiFi control but I'm new to home automation.

thats because the door and its frame it fits too are designed with lots of shapes in them to give rigidity and rubber seals --at least 2 sealing rings in effect not exactly burglar proof as you can usually flex the top half enough to get in how many house doors make secondary noise and vibration when you shut them -- cos they only held into the flexible wooden frame by about 6 fixings with packers the best metal door in a building you will see are the modern fire door assemblies --which are meant as much to stop break ins as anything else not pretty or cheap and none have any sort of insulation that would comply with any regs but once you get to van back doors which still are not as big as a house door they often deform in a very short time with use we all know it can be done --but costs will be the problem the ,modern door assembly has its faults but pretty good overall to me the way forward is wall sections made in factories on an assembly line any length you like--one storey high and holes cut in them for frames and all insulation already fitted--"sips" style certainly the house would go up in a day roof sections the same done right it would cut down on need for trusses -just add slates or tiles to taste maybe be channels in walls for services would be good ==but full finished --too inflexible

I could be wrong, but my understanding is that the marmox block simply needs to sit at the same level as the PIR insulation.

That is a clever option, but I would need to protect the membrane whilst the shell is built.

plastering robot --thats a joke no way it would work in real world

loosen and give them a twiddle you will see what they do

I think our low uplift for extensive PV may be down to the Assessor, but maybe a limitation of RDSAP not accepting the uncertified 8.5kw of self installed PV?? Another quirk was that the Assessor reckoned we may have scored slightly better with a modern gas boiler over the ASHP we have. His explanation for this was that as we are heating with radiators the system assumes a 55 degree flow temp which hits the HP efficiency. He reckoned there was no way to alter this to our actual flow temp of 30ish. I think the new HEM would likely give us a way better score than RDSAP but that will have to wait for another day

I think the choice will depend on the floor covering sounds like a good place for old fashioned viynl or armstrong type floor covering

what ever the casue and some more investigation since i posted tells me the cement board that are laid over the piping sheets --to act as heat sink should also be glued together with a special foaming type adhesive which allows for movement so the solution is not one i want to contemplate --ripping it all up and doing it the right way--i cannot see the builder doing it and cost to do would be very high new lvt -- new self levelling and cement boards etc - i think i will have to live with my ghosts

no thats all down to you i,m afraid maybe sander with good dust extractor and alot of PPE

I guess I could but that's not been the approach thus far. The Architect recommended a full plans approval. So the dialogue was between our architect and our (private) building control. All the nonsense was bottomed out in email argument before we started and "approved" so now I just meet our inspector Danny on site and he takes pictures of stuff to show that we've done what's been approved... Annoying that mistakes get made with the rules and even more annoying to me that so much is open to "interpretation". But I just prefer to think of it that those battles are behind me now.

Not a recommendation but there are lots of fridge/freezer monitors out there. Better to monitor the temperature in the unit vs the power supply. Here is one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GoveeLife-Digital-Thermometer-Control-Wireless/dp/B0F9KWHV4S

Are you volunteering to tell this to my wife? :-D

I have a detached garage with its own CU and ring main. The ring recently tripped unknown to me and the inevitable happened to the contents of the second freezer. is it possible to set up an alert system to notify my phone or other of a trip, without home assistant etc or temp sensors. i have good WiFi in the garage which does not rely on the same ring. Ideas gratefully received. The ring is fine and it looks like a one-off incident with the compressor duty cycling.

Ours needed to be stuck down with Rapid Bond, a polystyrene safe spray. I'd be very surprised if any polystyrene boards could be dry laid, they're really weak, just a few mm, where they're routed out. Can you ask the board manufacturer? I'm guessing you only have a few mm of leveling compound over?

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If you were watching the commonwealth games you'd have seen a real downpour. Also flood damage in recent months to a bridge over the Spey. We are in for continental weather patterns.

Good point, can't remember the last grey drizzly February Sunday afternoon, mind you I haven't been to Scotland for a while!

Thanks. We also have a good contact in Nairnshire. Seemed a bit amateur at first but doing the prep and pour himself ensured it was thought through. His oppos were entirely for carrying and cleaning up. But this time, I told them what they needed to know but it was either beyond their understanding or they didn't want to know. I'd have held money back but it's a democracy here.

The green line would be your gas membrane, laid flat with no folds or laps, supported on the slab and external walls. You can add whatever other DPCs you may need, safe in the knowledge that the gas membrane is continuous save for correctly detailed service penetrations.