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I'm not an electrician but something I've seen elsewhere is to not install any rings. Make them all radials. Might be a bit more expensive in wiring (4mm vs 2.5mm) or from having 2x20A radials vs 1x32A ring but makes testing and future changes simple.

When did this come in? In my flat the integrated microwave is fed via a fused isolater off the 32A ring. Does the fused isolater count as a dedicated circuit in this case? * The microwave has a normal 13A plug on it

Put the washer & dryer on a dedicated ring and take the outside socket(s) off that. Feed the outside sockets via a 20a DP switch, off that ring, and if there’s any issue (damage or water) to the outside socket you can isolate it; the washer / dryer can carry on being used then without the RCBO tripping. Treat both of those bathroom power circuits as the ‘utility ring’, extending it to the loft. You want anything outside segregated so any issues you may have outdoors won’t take anything indoors with it. Have the basement emergency light fed off the basement light loop, not off a dedicated breaker, just way OTT to segregate that; it’ll have the same functionality that you seek. I’d put another em lgt on the first floor landing close to the stairs to allow someone to come down safely from the upper level in a power out, as I have done here. You can convert almost any generic light fitting to an em lgt with an add-on pack. That will do a hob or large oven. Single ovens and fixed (integrated) microwaves both need dedicated circuits, whereas a ‘loose’ microwave sat on a worktop doesn’t. CAT6 to all TV’s, solar inverter, desktops, network printer, and WAP locations. Include duct grade CAT6’s to the outbuilding (garden wifi) and EV charger location. Consider xmas lights, and a single socket (where a chuffing airwick will live forever) and also which ones would be useful if it’s a USB double socket; buy a tidy high-powered one if charging a tablet is a must at the bedside(s) etc. Saves losing a socket outlet everywhere you need to plug a charger in.

I've had several quotes in Brum all around 120-140 mark.

We chose Omnie TorFloor2 back in 2023 and had the makeup of 22mm routed chipboard, with 12mm routed plywood coverboard. I think we had the plywood cover board because (1) it was 12mm and helped us get the floor up to the level of the concrete which the builder had laid higher than planned and (2) the flooring people normally lay plywood as the basis for laying LVT. We had a debate about the omnie plywood topboard not being SP101 but the flooring company said they could LVT onto it in the end. I see Omnie have now been bought by NuHeat and the Omnie dedicated website has disappeared. https://www.nu-heat.co.uk/underfloor-heating/suspended-timber/torfloor2/

I think maybe I don’t understand the way things are done. I had an application in that was refused for being to big so now I’m attempting to reduce it but maintain a good size internal space. As such I’ve gone up a level, lost the garage and gone back a bit. now I’m trying to get a good floor plan together that works. previous comments in my last post said that making it more “L” shaped works better for the plot so that what I’ve gone back to. This reduced the overall frontage and is less imposing on the perceived corner .

I forgot to add a bit about sewer pipes and water lines etc. Most underground pipes or cables can be identified on-site by looking for the marker posts at the edge of the road. Access to the proper asset plan should always be a part of the conveyancing and health and safety policy for your plot, but if you want to check before you get too carried away and invested in a plot then you can access these maps online for a fee. If you were buying a plot at auction then you would want to do this anyway before you bid. In Scotland these used to be available for free from the Scottish Water website but they seem to have farmed them out to three private companies who now charge a fairly modest fee for this. Here's an example https://www.cornerstoneprojects.co.uk/scottishwaterplans/ This company charge £35.50 +Vat for a same-day service.

Let me know if you want me to do (another) sketch. You’re trying to get the ugly sister’s foot into Cinderella’s shoe!

Circuit 7 We like to have washer dryer in bathroom. I know sockets and appliances need to be positioned in the right zone. This sounds interesting. Can you tell me more please. How does this work exactly? Thanks again for all the comments.

Why plywood and not ‘no more ply’ / other board type?

Back again. Revisit this thread, from December 2025, you had plenty of good advice and even drawings.

Wish we did electric towel rails, so we could warm towels in shoulder seasons when we don't have the heating on. We wired CAT6 everywhere which worked very well. Sockets on walks for wall mounted TV we did which also worked well.

This was my appeal if it helps: 1. Site context and “corner plot” status The appeal site is located at the end of XXX, adjoining XXX and a public recreation ground. While the site is visible from more than one public route, it does not occupy a formal road junction, nor does it perform any defined townscape, visual or spatial function. The Council places significant weight on describing the site as a “prominent corner plot” and treats this characteristic as a determining constraint to development. However, neither the XXX District Planning Framework nor the National Planning Policy Framework identifies corner plots as inherently unsuitable for infill or redevelopment. The term “corner plot” is descriptive only and does not, in itself, attract any policy-based protection. Private residential garden land does not benefit from a presumption of retained openness unless such protection is explicitly identified in policy or designation, which is not the case for the appeal site. Inspectors have repeatedly found that the perception of openness arising from an unusually large residential curtilage does not amount to protected openness in planning terms. The correct test is therefore whether the proposal responds appropriately to its context in terms of scale, massing, layout and appearance, rather than whether it preserves an incidental gap within the built form. 2. Openness and character of the street scene The officer report repeatedly refers to the site as providing a “visual break” and contributing to a “sense of openness”. However, no evidence is presented to demonstrate that this openness is deliberate, planned or subject to policy protection. The site is not designated as open space, does not form part of a planned vista, and is not subject to any policy seeking to retain undeveloped frontage or gaps. The surrounding area exhibits a varied suburban character, including semi-detached, terraced and detached dwellings, with irregular plot sizes typical of cul-de-sac layouts. Corner and end-of-run plots within such estates are frequently larger and are commonly capable of accommodating additional built form without harm to character. The proposal would not introduce development of excessive scale or prominence. The dwelling would maintain a typical two-storey height, domestic proportions and conventional separation distances. Importantly, the Council acknowledges within the officer report that: • separation distances are typical for the suburban context; • there would be no unacceptable harm to residential amenity; and • there are no objections on highway, arboricultural or environmental grounds.In this context, the conclusion that the proposal would nevertheless appear “cramped and visually intrusive” is not robustly substantiated and appears to be driven by a preference for the site to remain underdeveloped rather than by identifiable planning harm. 3. Scale and massing The proposed dwelling would be materially smaller in overall massing than the existing semi- detached pairs that characterise XXX. When assessed as a single built form, the appeal dwelling would be approximately three-quarters of the combined scale and bulk of the adjoining semi-detached properties. As a result, the proposal would read as a modest and subordinate addition within the street scene rather than as a dominant or overbearing form. This reduced massing directly addresses concerns regarding visual impact and reinforces the conclusion that the proposal would not erode the established suburban character of the area. This proportional relationship is a material consideration and weighs significantly against the suggestion that the proposal represents overdevelopment or an unduly intensive use of the site. 4. Design and windows – correction of factual error The officer report refers to the presence and impact of a side-facing window, implying potential overlooking and character impacts. This is factually incorrect. The submitted drawings clearly show that: • the proposed dwelling includes no side-facing habitable room windows; • side windows have been intentionally omitted to minimise overlooking, enclosure and visual intrusion; and • fenestration is primarily confined to the front and rear elevations, consistent with the prevailing pattern of development. This factual error materially undermines the reliability of the Council’s assessment. Conclusions relating to perceived cramping or character harm cannot reasonably be sustained where they are based on an incorrect understanding of the scheme. 5. Policy assessment (HDPF Policies 32 & 33 and the NPPF) Policy 32 (Quality of New Development) and Policy 33 (Development Principles) require development to respect local character, avoid overdevelopment, and achieve appropriate scale, massing and spacing. The proposal complies with these requirements by: • maintaining typical suburban heights and separation distances; • providing adequate private amenity space for both dwellings;• presenting reduced massing relative to surrounding built form; and • avoiding overlooking through careful fenestration design. Paragraphs 135, 136 and 139 of the NPPF (2024) confirm that development should respond positively to local character without imposing unnecessary uniformity or preventing the appropriate optimisation of sites. The appeal proposal represents a proportionate and well-considered form of residential infill consistent with these objectives. 6. Appeal precedent and Inspector reasoning Appeal decisions consistently confirm that: • corner plots are not inherently constrained from development; • perceived openness of private garden land carries limited weight in the absence of policy protection; and • efficient use of land within built-up areas is supported where character and amenity impacts are acceptable. Inspectors have repeatedly found that resistance based solely on the retention of an incidental gap or sense of spaciousness does not justify refusal where scale, massing and amenity impacts are otherwise acceptable. The Council’s approach in this case conflicts with this established reasoning. 7. Planning balance The Council has not demonstrated a five-year supply of deliverable housing sites, engaging the presumption in favour of sustainable development under paragraph 11(d) of the NPPF. The proposal would: • deliver an additional dwelling within the built-up area boundary; • make efficient use of land in a sustainable location; and • do so without giving rise to unacceptable technical or amenity impacts. The alleged character harm relies on an overstated interpretation of openness and is further weakened by a material factual error regarding the scheme’s design. When weighed against the identified benefits, any perceived harm does not significantly and demonstrably outweigh the benefits when assessed against the Framework as a whole. Conclusion The appeal proposal represents a proportionate, well-designed and policy-compliant form of residential infill. The refusal places excessive weight on the incidental openness of private garden land and relies, in part, on an incorrect understanding of the proposal. The development accords with Policies 32 and 33 of the XXX District Planning Framework and the objectives of the National Plan

The proposed development, by reason of its scale, footprint and siting on a constrained corner plot, would result in a cramped and visually intrusive form of development that fails to reflect the established pattern, spacing and character of XXX Avenue. The creation of a reduced and constrained garden for the host dwelling, materially smaller than neighbouring properties, would further emphasise the sense of overdevelopment. The proposal would therefore appear as an incongruous and overly intensive addition to the street scene, harming the character and visual amenities of the area. The development would conflict with Policies 25, 32 and 33 of the XXX Planning Framework (2015), which require high-quality design that respects local character, ensures appropriate townscape integration and safeguards amenity. It would also be contrary to the design and character-based provisions of the National Planning Policy Framework (2024), including paragraphs 135, 136 and 139, which require development to respond positively to local distinctiveness and avoid poor design. So i'm reducing the footprint by around 15%, reducing a third off the front to single storey. It's really the internal layout i'm looking for advice on. thanks

Surely you need to understand the specifics of the refusal. Have you or the architect spoken to the planning people to discuss ? Did neighbours object ? Perhaps modest modifications to your original plans would be approved ? I'd have expected the architect to be proactive with the planners - unless they told you it was unlikely to be approved. As ever, and in my view always a hugely bad thing, planning drawings do not show the wider street scene. What does the surrounding street and other houses look like ? I would have thought going 3 storey is more imposing, and never great for layout. Redesign the roof above the garage ? Flat Roof ? Lowered ridge line with gable end ?

The trouble with lighting is the horrible combination of units used. Luminance Luminance Flux Luminance Energy Luminance intensity Luminance Efficacy Candela Candela/m² Lumen Lumen/m².steridan Lambert Nit Skot Stilb Apostilb Bril Blondel It's a (expletive deleted)ing minefield and after having done a contract for one of the biggest manufacturers of controllers and diffusers, I was non the wiser, except that every 'lighting designer' I met, knew less than me, and my contract was nothing to do with the lighting side of the business. Get a bulb and hang it from a wire dangling from the ceiling.

We have been in our new build for 2 years. Wiring I wish we had done different. External lighting done with the wrong cable for PIR lights ( 2core used should have been 3core ? ) Only got rear external sockets , used a lot but should have had one at front as well, perhaps by EV charger. Wiring for towel rail did not allow for timer. Things I like. 2 consumer units only one supported by battery in event of outage, so heat pump and towel rails do not drain battery. Because of automatic gateway often do not realise we have a power cut. 5 amp lighting sockets for side lights in lounge , hall and kitchen family room, switched by door. We put high level sockets for extra bathroom heat, been here 2 winters and not used them, but who knows when I’m 90 ( a bit too close for comfort) Put small distribution box in Garage, so easy to take an extra feed to greenhouse or summer house etc.

Understood. And you've got the gas pipe there. If that was me I'd just ensure that you can change over in the future without too much disruption.

So now my flooring people say they can't fit in levelling my suspended floor before my kitchen & utility fit ! They are now proposing to finish levelling only the open plan kitchen room (concrete floor) and stop the top coat of levelling compound a few inches onto the suspended floor with some mesh under across the join. Then return later (after the kitchen fit) to screw and prep the suspended floor and put the levelling compound down the hall and into the utility. Is this sensible or wise ? Should I call off the kitchen fit (again) ? The suspended floor is omnie torfloor2 underfloor heating system with 12mm ply top board. The kitchen company obviously want to fit kitchen and utility together, and obviously don't want to rearrange their kitchen fit. They are telling me it will be fine for them to fit the utility onto the raw omnie ply and then have the flooring people put the levelling compound on afterwards (to be followed by LVT) so that it runs around the bottom of the panels that go down to floor level. It is just a 2m run - washing machine bay, dryer bay, sink cupboard, and wall cupboard. Is this a sensible approach, or just trades wanting to find any botch they can to (1) fail to deliver my levelled floor on time and (b) install the utility onto a floor that isn't fully prepped ? Cons: 1/ Will there be issues where the final levelling compound is done in two pours - one for kitchen - another later for hall and utility. e.g. cracking, step or ridge in levels ? 2/ Is it wise to not have leveller under the utility end/divider panels/legs - possible route to future water spills/leaks reaching the plywood ? Damage to bottom of panels from the wet leveller ? (they tell me bottom of panels are sealed). PITA if the utility cabinetry was changed in the future as there would be strips of missing floor leveller and missing spots under the legs. 3/ Not having the final floor level in the utility when they fit the cabinetry in there. 4/ Delay to floor finishing in hall/utility Pros 1/ making the flooring people do the whole job in a rush could jeopardise a good floor finish 2/ More time and space to screw and fill the suspended floor boards properly Should I make the kitchen people come back to fit the utility later and separately from the kitchen - no doubt at extra cost and with great resistance from them ? Prior linked topic here... https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/46994-membrane-finishing/

True, but my decision to install was flawed I should have installed a heat pump. Currently 10p. Very true, I don't have one, just export what I don't use My 4kW will do 0.9kW, but must admin never seen it go below 2kW. But you pay nearly as much in annual standing charges as you do for gas. So effective cost per kWh is nearly double. That's when I realised the gas pipe meter had to go. So the real cost of gas is actually close to or more expensive than the electricity, to power a heat pump on an annual basis (Cosy 10p) plus you should be getting a CoP of 4.0 to 4.5.maybe better. Even at normal cost rate of 25p you really only need a CoP of around 2.5p to break even. My system is super simple now. Immersion to do DHW, a direct cylinder can be as cheap as chips compared to a heat pump one. Heat pump direct to UFH, no mixer or pump, no zone valves. I have room temperature monitoring via a good UFH controller, but a single on/off signal to heat pump set to where I want house temp. A single switch to move from heat to cool. Cylinder £500 Heat pump £2100 (including vat) UFH controller and room monitors came to a around £200 from eBay. But a Viessmann is a good boiler can make a very simple setup, just get a 4 pipe boiler job done. Either weather compensation or set flow to 30 to 35 and let the controller look after house temperature. But install a heat pump cylinder to get condensation mode through our the DHW heating cycle.

We've not planned to, all our surface water will end up in our large storage pond so, no soakaway blockages etc to worry about.

post the refusal reasons please? Flat roof rear extension reduced size, roof lights not dormers in the loft conversion. House is still too big for the plot though, you don’t have enough garden or parking. Ditch the garage for now.

Are you intending to have a hob - that will need its own feed. What are these for - bathrooms have very specific restrictions?

Can you get a LED type of broad spot bulb (would it be called a flood?) if it is 3m high that would work? Or with LEDs can we be slightly more relaxed about the rating, since they run cool or cold? Years ago I sometimes used bulbs that were half-silvered behind. I have also sometimes used ones that I call "cluster spots" from Screwfix with 2, 3 or 4 fittings, like this (for one example), which are inexpensive. But this may be a return to your previous setup. https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/spotlights/cat840842 Plan X could be a mirror on the ceiling !