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Your second photo shows the top hinge set high. This would encourage me to inspect to see if the vertical part of the door frame (the jamb) is twisting. I can't see how wide a cavity you have but the chances are that the vertical part of the door frame is not properly fixed to the inner leaf of the wall above the hinge. Commonly folk think that the head of the frame stops the jambs from twisting.. the load from the hinge is eccentric to the jamb section. If you see how these are fixed together (the head to the jamb) by few screws this is not the case that the head of the frame prevents twisting via the joint. When you open the door look to see if the door jamb is twisting relative to the head. It's going to be hard to see. First thing to do is to keep the door shut. Get up on a ladder and put your finger over the joint. Get someone else to open the door and see if you can feel / see any movement in the joint between the jamb and the head. Use the previous principle to verify what you feel as you crack open the door.

Hi all I set my UFH temperature to 15 deg for cooling last heat wave and I monitored dew on the manifold and there was nothing. However when I turned it on Sunday for this hot period, I saw dew on my manifolds and the tiled floor felt very very slightly damp ish yesterday so I have upped the temp to 17 deg. This seemed ok until this evening when the manifolds had dew on them again albeit only very slightly. how/what is the best way to monitor my dew point within the house? is there anything I can integrate into my system retrospectively? any advice/information greatly appreciated!

I helped a mate out in his chip shop tonight. Careful placement of 3 fans kept the temperature down. Have known it to be 50°C for 4 hours. So not too bad.

Vent axia sending me a new pcb foc 😊 very kind of them

You’re right to be cautious, but bear in mind that not all polyurethane systems are equal. The one we’re using in this instance is water based, zero-VOC, no isocyanates… It’s very different to the polyurethane foams used in furniture or in 2k construction adhesives/foams. There are many resin systems I would never use in my house but this isn’t one of them I have zero concerns. I believe the VOCs given off by natural wood are typically those that give wood its distinctive smell, like the terpenes (I think!?) released by cedar. Not the same as isocyanates, toluene, acetaldehyde and the other crap that gases off from all manner of man-made materials. It’s weird though, how some dreadful VOCs are overlooked or even kind of desirable…. New car smell? Toluene, benzene, styrene, acetaldehyde… just part of a long list, all slowing killing you 🤷🏻‍♂️

Is it insulated? If so it should straddle the insulation where we that is, other than a set distance. If not insulated then any distance to suit how things look

How is everyone doing out there? SO hot today, managed to be on site 10 until about 5:30 but it was a very, very hot one. Working inside, no way we could have been doing anything outside.

Trying to decide how far to set the windows back in on our Pod build. Vertical timber cladding and I was contemplating about 80mm or so from external cladding. Not sure if there is a standard for this hence wondering what others did!

Usually hardboard on the inside of a caravan, or something similar perhaps thin ply etc. My thought is still leaning to a very slight leak or condensation within the structure that has led to a gradual build up. That's why I would be trying a dehumidifier and I mean a proper mains powered one not a tray or magic crystals. This weather is perfect for it, heat to drive the moisture out and the dehumidifier to remove it. Repeat you damp readings after a week of that running.

Some insects will get through any of these.

That's entirely personal taste. An ancient lead or zinc roof looks much the same.

If you can stop the liquid water coming in at metal laps, wndow joints etc then you are winning. The next stage is the dampness inside drying out. With windows open snd the summer temperatures it might be slow but will happen. That's unless any water is between 2 impermeable layers. Only then might some holes or stripping back be worthwhile. But it's mostly plasterboard or hardboard isn't it?

Rear elevation on our new place is planned with 2 modest sliding patio doors and a single standard door on the utility. Is there a way to have the sliding doors slightly open but secure? I know back in the day we used to put a stick in the bottom rail as a sort of dead lock. I know in oz they have secure fly screen doors in front of the glass sliders. I am just wondering how I can leave the doors slightly open to get some air in for night purging etc while still having it secure.

Our Starlink gen 2 died about 7am this morning we think. The LED on the router no longer lights up. It had been working since the thunder / lightning storm Monday night. Lad contacted them. "Yes, we can see a problem with your set up, we'll send you out a gen 3 kit, foc, under warranty, asap. Do whatever you want with the old kit". Can't fault the service.

Presumably the position of the water supply/stop tap is defined in the drawings and the builder's contract includes it in the work scope.

I am glad to hear of your recovery, and well done with picking up your build again. I think the state of the NHS is a worry to us all, and ever more so as we get older. Where it is all going awry seems impossible for anyone to understand or fix. I will say that the very elderly do seem to get a huge attention from the NHS. We find ourselves ferrying nearly 90's relatives to multiple appointments every single week. A neighbour is 102 now. I presume they did explain what the problem was and explain their decisions to keep sending you away again. I am interested to see how you cover your cavities as you go. Our builders had zero interest in ever covering anything that was built. Oh the happy times (not) we spent going up scaffolding to protect things. Tarpaulins, DPM rolls, buckets, mops, water pump, sand bags at 6am was bloody miserable.

I will do if the technical guys don’t sort it. We’ll live with a bit of condensation on our manifold for now, and I’ll find time sometime to store the manual.

Let us know what you find when you open up a trial area. I still have mixed feelings on this, if the damp is not causing a real problem, I would carry on and live with it. If you take what you have been told literally it is scrap now with a repair cost quoted to you of what it is worth. A bit like in the boating world, scrapping a boat with osmosis. While it is warm, get a portable dehumidifier in there to dry it out. Can you post some pictures of the outside, roof to wall joints and wall corner joints.

No, the panels pretty much sit on the standing seams using the S5 clamps that @Mr Blobby mentioned. There is no space underneath for birds.

Yeah, you are right that if it's lower humidity (and temperature) inside then the enthalpy exchanger should help. I was thinking of the case where it's (much) higher humidity inside than out, but that isn't what we have here today Funny you ask - I was literally looking at options immediately after posting here. I'd like you that starts (or resumes) operation after main power is cut and restored, so I could easily put it on a relay switch to control only running it when really needed (and ideally, during cheap energy window), but got bogged down as the cheaper units all seem to need a push-button press to start operation, or have their own smart/cloud/app integration that I really don't want. It's something I may yet do if I find a good option. Good news is connecting continuous drainage is easy in the plant room, so doesn't matter if it only has a small internal condensate pan. In the meantime, I've tweaked around my logic to allow the FCU flow temperature to drop a bit under the dew point if cooling load gets high, and let it drop much below dewpoint if the house starts to overheat. I figure a short(ish) period of condensation on all the pumps and valves is tolerable; it's long term dampness on them all I'm concerned about for causing corrosion and parts to fail. (In all cases the UFH flow is hard-limited to not go below dew point )

No need to do any of this ⬆️ if you have a meter already inplace then everything your side is yours you just look up the correct spec and get it put in to that spec, as said previously double check valve on the new pipework into the house. tbh the builders pipe he put in should have one installed as well to stop any site contamination getting back into the main.

Why not phone up the water utility company and ask them. If a new water pipe is going to be connected to their water meter I'd have thought they would want to be informed. We were not building a new house, but we did replace the lead pipe connection down our drive with a new MDPE pipe. The connection at the pavement was done by the water utility company and effectively connected the new MDPE pipe we had put in by a private contractor to the mains supply and removed the old lead pipe connection. We were increasing the bore of our mains connection, but: The Utility Company had stated requirements for the install of the new pipe. They had an inspector that was required to approve things before the connection/move to the new pipe. Either coming in person while trenches were open, or looking to see photographs showing pipe was at the necessary depth etc. This is also something building regs should be insterested in - for example at least knowing that the utility company inspected your pipe. Now it might be tempting to play dumb, not talk to anyone, and just connect a new pipe. But down the line when someone is buying the house and the connection was not notified, or approved, or passed, you might live to regret it. Also regs and requirements are there for reasons that help to protect you as building occupier and owner. Your builder may be very good, or may not be. Do you want to wait until move in to find the mains freezes in winter, or leaks etc. If builder does everything A1 then a utility inspector will pass it in a flash, if not then you would want to know wouldn't you. Show your builder that you want a straight bat, that you are asking the right people the right questions - good ones will expect that. Also when our new pipe was connected the water utility accidentally broke the connector - had to turn the water off to the whole street to fix it. What is your builder going to do if that happens ? scarper ? Honestly in the context of the costs of building something, then any charge involved in going by the book is worth accepting and paying.

Start a new thread, include model and size. Mine has moved to hot tub heating duty and I replaced with a smaller heat pump. Do you have the full version of the controller manual? Both R290 and R32 are available online.

I don't have UFH, only radiators. That means most rooms aren't cooled, only one where I've jury-rigged a fan coil in place of a radiator. So dehumidification doesn't help elsewhere, and it certainly doesn't help the unconditioned spaces where pipe sweat is a problem. (this is a traditional 1960s build) So the question is really whether dehumidifiers are useful in cooling humans in the absence of other cooling. From this video it seems not - the latent heat of condensation will be released which is roughly like the COP working against you - eg 300W of electrical energy in releasing 1200W of latent heat. Yes the RH will go down, but the temperature will go up much more. I'm not clear how humans feel humidity but sweating is the same evaporation cycle, so if everything is perfectly efficient then I suppose the air is 1200W hotter but the humans' sweat causes 900W of cooling, meaning the net 'felt' heating effect is 'only' 300W, but it's still a positive 300W hotter. The latent heat release is beneficial when you're dehumidifying a damp property in the winter, but here it's unhelpful. The pipes are insulated, but the pipe clamps aren't (the pipes were installed and then insulation put around them; I have upgraded the insulation but not re-clamped them. Some of the clamps are now inaccessible). For heating that's a relatively small heat loss but it's a problem where any amount of sweat is too much. The other thing I'm concerned about is moisture soaking into the (nitrile) insulation, so pondering replacing with rockwool or polyethylene foam. I will likely have to move some portions to a different location to get access, which will mean quite major changes. I was planning those changes anyway so I can run at low temps, but it sounds like they're going to be needed either way.

Thanks, its certainly worth a look. Some areas are showing 30% dampness which is pretty bad. They normally say up to 15% is a level for concern. We'll be taking an area out undr a seat to give ourselves a better idea what is actually happening.