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Have a look at the Grundfos Comfort pump folks. "Most", maybe, which means you need to spend more time looking and reading Manifolds at the plant room only. This is how you delete the large bore dead legs at source. If you have "manifolds everywhere" then these will need to be fed from 22mm and will be the opposite to the solution of reducing dead legs.

Slow down..... This. Easy roof are another. Panel sizes change faster than the tray manufacturers can keep up with, and then they have to go for MCS certification which takes even more time. If you want contact details for a very good installer, ping me a PM. He can tell you what fits into what etc, and then you can go decide.

Another one for the free 1hr chat I offered you, lol. You are a tough cookie to crack....aka stubborn. Same here.

This is what pays my bills. So few people get this properly aligned before breaking ground. Grab this with both hands, it's just so much less stress. Watch the in's and out's, as most fill the space with pipe and forget it has to get back to the manifold somewhere.

Hence the question. What matters to you most - a good looking roof or max solar?

Yes although going to be tough to do this with only 250mm or so to the verge..

Are you using one and a half slates?

I think it’s a 500x250

I packed a load of offcuts into the space under and around the bath. Theoretically, the bath water may stay warmer longer. Practically, I've kicked the can along the road for a few years. Win-win!

A degree of care re the effective panel width may be vital. Our panels are spaced on GSE trays so their total width is more than just n times the panel width itself. We went for 8 panels wide as 9 would have made the verges look too mean. How wide are your slates?

I just simplified all this. We have a 15mm pipe from cylinder to a manifold, then one pipe to each wet room, again in 15mm. The 15mm is branched out once in wet room to each hot water outlet. Our ensuite is about 20m from cylinder so it has a hot water return. Run the same size pipe, in our case 15mm, back to the return pump and then to cylinder. Ideally you want the thermostat on the return pump and a timer.

Well, one can always transform PIR off cuts into modern art…. I took ours to the recycling centre, putting it into the non recyclable container. We just worked bloody hard to have as little waste as possible. We’ve got a layer of polystyrene on our slab wherein sits our poo pipes. I did exactly that, I pushed broken up polystyrene beads dry into the air gaps round the pipes after I’d applied the foam to keep them in place. Our DPM then went on top then our PIR, so no danger of the beads floating in screed.

Most of the talk in this forum has been about single pipe runs to each appliance and now you're telling me instant hot water needs a different method 🤯 Plumbing definitely isn't more forte. So, if I have manifolds everywhere to I put 15mm pipes from those to each appliance and the ones where I want instant hot water I run a 10mm return to the cylinder? I really need to start drawing out where I'll be putting all this stuff.

I could do a smaller panel but try 5 in landscape… my roof is 9300mm wide and panels would be 8810 (5x1762). How much clearance is needed each side (slate roof)?

Oh well, if I should have allowed for 12mm ply throughout upstairs then I need to add another line on the “I screwed up” list. Ho humm. But our stairs are in and the levels are set for 9mm total floor covering depth - 6mm ply plus ~3mm of LVT. We’ve no thresholds between rooms as we want a continuous floor treatment throughout. So the electric matting goes onto the chipboard, with the levelling compound. We’ve been recommended a local flooring company who are happy to apply the levelling compound on the UFH mats I install. I’ll be putting the shower trays direct onto the chipboard as I’d rather not see a line of ply under them. Perhaps my next step is to test fit the trays and see how flat, stable and level they are, and then take it from there.

Thanks John I get that. I was wondering if anyone has sourced a tray that fits this panel size. From GSE website I think they do a 1990x1090 tray but cannot source it anywhere so wondered if anyone else had found it. As you say alternative is to step down and use a smaller tray just don’t get as much PV then…

Simple, you find the GSE tray sizes and then choose a PV panel that fits. Doing it the other way around doesn't really work.

I also really like chemical anchors! 🥰 I'm almost disappointed I don't have more stuff to bolt down with it. It's a hard life post-build... When you run out of fun stuff to sink your teeth into...

I have a 9300mm x 3500mm garage roof (slate) and I’m wanting to install in roof system. The roofers are happy to install whatever I supply and I’m just trying to find out the best system to install. I’ve pretty much settled on GSE as this seems most popular. I’ll be putting panels on both sides of the roof. I want max kw for the roof And am looking at JA Solar panels either 500w panel (1134x1953) or 450w panel (1134x1762). Im on 3 phase. I think the most panels I can fit is the 500w panel in 2 rows of 4 on each elevation (4kW per side). In portrait most I can get on with 500w panel is 7. I’m struggling to understand how the landscape system works for GSE And what trays I would need for a 2 row landscape layout (and where to find these from as sourcing is quite tricky. I don’t know if GSE actually supports this panel size?

Keeping everything in folders, electronically ideally, with a systematic naming and numbering system is key I think. We only had 40-50 odd receipts though, all electronic originally.

Ahh I wouldn't mind betting we are of a similar era - Good old Fergal I was gonna say @-rick- bravo for persistence but possible you on a hiding to nothing - good luck

Or mask wearing causing rebreathing of CO2

Stupid of me to assume the air inside the house was damp when you mentioned rusting stoves and wok. I should have realised that you might keep your stoves and wok in the garden......no wonder the stoves don't heat the house if they aren't in it. I'm done here. Adios

No, I have his website in my bookmarks. I don't know him personally, but he is known in the industry, and I'm in the industry - IYKWIM? He was actually interviewed by HVAC Education hub recently, so you can listen to him talk - he very much talks the language of buildhub in his design philosophy.

They knew exactly what we planned to do and we gave a very clear requirement. I'm getting very used to this 'quality' of output from the suppliers / distributors etc. now though. Speaking to my builder, it's entirely 'normal' and he spends a large amount of time fixing design issues on site. Unfortunately it also only works on windows and I'm loathed to by a PC or try and set up a virtual machine on my Mac just for this; this was why I went with a supplier who would be paid to do the design (having provided them with all the necessary information). #sigh... Is this a personal recommendation of this one, or has it turned up on a search (just wanting to make sure I understand before I look around). Thanks for the nudge. This is a good enough reason for me I think