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Not sure this really addresses your question in any way but given the end result I wonder why you are so focussed on the specific solution? ie, specifying Mitsubishi Given that you are looking for an installer to do this work for you and installers with experienced of mixed radiator/fancoil installations are rare, why not look for an installer with the right experience and then seek their advice for the solution? They will likely have specific solutions they are most familiar with and the best installer that is close enough to you might have different equally suitable solutions. Now, Buildhub is littered with people who come here because they've had naff advice from an installer so it's good to go into a conversation understanding what you want but I can't help feeling there are multiple routes you could go down to get what you want. For example, Panasonic have offered these solutions for a while and multiple people hear have used them and found installers for them. I've not heard of Mitsubishi being used like this before here. I'm not saying Panasonic is better, or that Mitsubishi is the wrong answer, just that it feels too early in the process to narrow the spec down.

I've started talking to a few builders now, and one to-day was initially very keen on moving the sewer. But then when he saw it was shared with the neighbours' houses (it runs along the front of a row of four houses, of which mine is the second, serving all of them) he went right off the idea, saying it wouldn't be possible to move it. Is that the case? Am waiting to see what the other builders say now...

That doesn't matter. In fact it grips the concrete better than non-rusted, and without water it won't change.

and kept secret? There was much more blurb but they missed that one.

I've put a few rows on at the gable. Vent and batten will kickup ~34mm. It doesn't look wrong with a 38mm kickup from the brickwork. I hadn't considered that it might upset the verge. It looks like the verge I am planning to use will accommodate.

@Gus Potter and I have been discussing this in detail. The resolution? Use the appropriate national building reg's and don't mix them. The other documents are guidelines even if better written and used as the basis for the national regs. Without checking, don't the GBRs say to work to the building regs? To my mind, option 1 will work well but not comply. More pipes would make it comply. Option 2, looks like the book says, except one trench may be too near to the bank.

I'm surprised it wasn't developed by NASA

Immediate failure or at a later date? Thanks both, parts ordered.

I'm certain the single rectangular drainage field does not comply with the General Binding Rules or BS 6297. Might it be permitted by the EA? I'm not sure!

Sorry JohnMo below is more info (thanks to Google Gemini) but I need human input too! I am planning a 100% electrified, full gas-decommissioning project for a detached, traditional brick/block home in Nottingham (NG2). The house features filled cavity walls, solid concrete ground floors, and modern gas-filled, heat-reflective uPVC double glazing throughout. I am looking to specify the newly launched Samsung EHS Mono R290 (8kW) / Quint TDM Plus multi-hybrid platform integrated with the 200L ClimateHub floor-standing unit, utilizing the £7,500 BUS grant. The proposed design splits the home into a hybrid air-to-water and air-to-air network from that single outdoor compressor: Ground Floor Space Heating: We are retaining our existing Double-Column and Double-Panel radiators. However, these operate over an existing 8mm micro-bore copper pipe manifold infrastructure. To manage the high flow rate of the heat pump against the resistance of the 8mm pipes, the plan is to install a wall-mounted 50-litre close-coupled buffer vessel (e.g., Samsung MIM-B19N) inside the hot water cylinder cupboard to act as a hydraulic separator, powered by an external secondary variable-speed circulation pump (e.g., Grundfos UPS3). Ground Floor Cooling: We want to mount WindFree™ wall units downstairs in the Lounge, Sun Room, Playroom and Kitchen. First Floor Space Heating/Cooling: We are completely decommissioning and capping off all the existing low-surface-area single bedroom radiators. Instead, we want to run a medium-static ducted fan-coil matrix hidden in the loft, splitting into 4 bedrooms via insulated flex ducts, motorized electronic zoning dampers, and independent room thermostats. The playroom will get a standard wall head on the same side of the house. Grid Infrastructure & Tariff: The entire heating and hot water platform will be wired downstream of a Tesla Powerwall 3 and Gateway, running alongside our 6kWp solar array and the dynamic E.ON Next Optimise tariff.. My questions for the group: Has anyone got early field data or a hands-on review of the modulation floor and part-load efficiency of this new Samsung R290/TDM Quint chassis? Are there any hidden pitfalls when balancing a secondary pump curve across 8mm micro-bore manifolds downstream of a 50L low-loss buffer? How responsive is the SmartThings automation when attempting to interface with dynamic half-hourly grid tariff parameters alongside a home battery? Can anyone recommend an MCS-accredited, heat-pump expert installer covering the Nottingham/East Midlands area who has the hydronic and aerodynamic capabilities to handle a hybrid project like this? I am fully intending to commission an independent Heat Loss Hub / Heat Geek design package before signing a labour contract with any firm, but I would highly value any independent critique or advice on this kit combination before kicking off the formal engineering blueprint. Thanks in advance!

It's not an Aircon unit, but a A2Wso connects to wet heating system. Should do cooling as well, but depends what it's connected too. So may need more information

Does anyone have any knowledge about the above? I'm interested in installing a unit at my home to replace a gas boiler driven system and provide air conditioning. Thanks

I'm not building houses any more Uncle Nick - I'm building worlds!

Wednesday looks hot as hell, so worth avoiding.

Probably not... Application was both gerberit, and grohe cisterns...

Yes. I will report back, even if it goes horribly wrong. Hopefully, it won't. Would be nice if the weather a bit cooler, but I need to get the slabs down as I don't like leaving the membrane and still uncovered as one will degrade with UV and the other will just rust more.

Not sure, but I seem to remember that forced induction engines follow a different cycle. Not that it really matters in the above cases.

All heat engines are still limited by Carnot. I have a bunch of largish Seebeck devices in my shed never fitted. I was going to do solar thermal + Seebeck, but went big on solar PV instead.

OK. So good luck with it, and report back please, as I've never used SCC.

Yes.

I think we would be better off slashing education budgets and reducing the checks on online sales. Let the 'hard working family' loose their money, it is theirs to loose.

I use these regularly, very reliable bits of kit for concealed toilets / showers / wall mounted basic taps etc. Did you swap the square edged rubber seal for the chamfered one? @S2D2, it doesn’t say it, but these come with a second loose rubber seal, and you simply switch to the one that matches the application; square for a traditional tap aka ‘flat-faced’, or chamfered if its a cone fitting (that takes an olive usually). Don’t use anything like lube or paste on these, just whack them in dry and you’ll be right for life.

Almost any engine is an order of magnitude better than the seebeck effect.

Efficiency = 1-Tcold/Thot So like any reciprocating engine, it is going to be pretty poor.

You’ll thank yourself later in honesty. The room should be good for at least 15-20 years, so best to cover yourself. 👍