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The battery wouldn't care if the inverter is 5 or 100m away but your wallet would when you buy the connecting cable. Our battery comes with 50mm2 cables for a 1.5m run

Sorry I wasn't clear. They don't normally need to be close though some of the sleek all in one type obviously do! This was in the context of a long DC cable run from panels to inverter (and battery) There was a suggestion about putting the inverter next to the panels and running the underground cable in AC. If we used AC coupled batteries they could then be at the house connected via AC But a hybrid connects to the inverter over a DC line so if the batteries are to be at the house i'd need a DC line from the inverter by the panels to the house alongside the AC line from the inverter to the house! Which defeats the object of putting the inverter by the panels (to avoid a buried DC cable) in the first place 😁

If your proposed future roof needs parallel chords of a posi joist, at lengths like 6m, then you have zero chance of running a 4x2 for that distance, singularly, as nobody stocks them afaik; they’d be too weak also. For my current client I have had to sister 2x 4x2’s to get beyond 3.6m; single 4.8’s are possible, but are weak and useless. For s roof, forget it basically. Posi joists are cheap enough, so wasting time, effort, money the way you propose is a bit ‘non cost-effective’ and methinks wholly impractical.

Your choice is a), over-mitigate with AS basin traps on top, or b), add them later if they’re needed. If you're going to buy a trap anyways, fit an AS one on both first as last; buy good quality ones from the likes of McAlpine.

If this is the case then the aav doesn’t need to be at the furthest point? Is the basin gurgling fear mostly avoided by using the AS traps?

Time for a day off the internet for you.

No magic flap is inedible. It may stop them walking, won’t stop them gnawing through it; they get through concrete for context.

It does? That is info that has passed my by. Im unclear why the battery would know or care if the inverter is 5 or 100m away? Whilst theres no batteries in my immediate future, longer term its likely.

As long as air can get into the pipe that drops vertically, it matters not one single bit where it comes from.

So would you recommend using 2 x 2” aav’s at the furthest point nearer the bog in the ensuite and not bother with an aav in the family bathroom?

You only need the full capacity, if two WC's are flushed at exactly the same time, but adding AS traps to both basins would help a lot too.

I agree, the gate valve might need some adjustment, the problem I have though is that when the boiler reaches set temp it stops the burner immediately. There is no stabilised period. I will experiment though as I know that having the gate valve open 2 turns from closed doesn’t seem to effect the boiler. As always with the internet advise is confusing. Some say open the gate valve just enough to allow flow and some say open it fully for unrestricted flow.

PS mine is now set up on X plan (DHWP) so can’t do both at sane time but the gate valve still is in use just slowing the flow down to keep the boiler from throwing full power at the re-heat (viessman 16kW boiler with 4kW min output - vented 115 litre HW tank with stupid 0.3 m coil - although I have new unvented 180 litre tank to fit with 2.7m2 coil that will initially be set up as vented)

it would probably be worth a little experiment to optimise the gate valve setting ready for winter mine is set to 1 3/4 turns out from fully closed in all year round. Easy to find the optimum - fire up on HW only let the boiler stabilise at target flow temp then slowly shut the gate valve 1/8 of a turn at a time until the boiler trips out due to temp rising above set point (too little flow) back out again 1/4 turn and thats your setting for summer and winter (open enough for HW heating in summer to keep boiler happy and closed enough that in winter when running both CH and HW together for a period of tome that the route thro the coil isn’t stealing all the flow and starving the CH circuit

Google says 2.86 degs, long way off 12 degs.

Isn't the attraction of glulam , other than the long spans which you don't have, that it looks pretty? Painting and screws kind of lose that. OK I think I'm going to let you get on with it. But good luck.

Except at the ridge. You know not to put anything through it, but lots of people don't, including Architects. I only have horror stories and dire warnings to go on , as I never did one. We had it in our portfolio of options, and no client ever chose it, based on cost and the warnings about function. We also offered it with sliding fixings to allow for movement as otherwise it can ping. Yes do it yourself. Forget degrees and stick to the more useful horizontal length , height difference and slope distance. you can do this yourself with a tape and a long stick. 430mm height difference over 9m ( 1 in 20 or so) would indeed be effectively 'flat' and not a great idea in metal cladding. Come back when it's worked out.

We put standing seam on a roof and the customer had solar added. The were fixed by brackets that clamped onto the standing seams. The roof actually had a slight fall to north but it still worked fine. The standing seam was Kalzip type.

It's probably me getting confused. I took what I was told by roofing bod, but maybe I misunderstood. Back to algebra to work it out properly.

Agree with @Spinny if the rule was not around until 2023 your steel was already in. Point this out to BC. You can't comply with rules that did not exist at the time.

The chamber is fine. The old chambers with the traps often get blocked and are not used now. The rat blockers fitted inside the chamber work well.

It's never been the look for me (though I like the look). The whole appeal of standing seam for me is (assuming it's continuous on a single surface) nowhere that can leak. All the joins overlap and crimp in place. Therefore, once you add junctions and weird shapes the appeal fades.

Jeepers...scream...yes... and shit standing up for evermore... https://www.express.co.uk/news/weird/1948864/woman-screams-rat-stares-up

Was hoping to leave it on show and paint it. Using screws internally to the glulam would allow three faces to have no fixings showing

Having listened to the advice already given, thank you, I have now adjusted the boiler flow temp to 70c and the cylinder stat to 50c. The cycle has improved, the boiler now burns up to the set temp in about 22 mins and then turns the burner off, approx 2-3 mins later the cylinder stat gets to its set temp and ceases to request heat resulting in the boiler completely switching off (normal behaviour). I measured the temp out of the nearest tap and it was approx. 55c.