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Plus, it’s just dogshit (pretty pictures).

Thanks gents, Screwfix beckons.

Trouble is they are just making pretty pictures. There is zero balancing of room output. All designed around a thermostat controlling the room temperature.

There must be, as it would need to take a modular access cover. Ring them on Tuesday and ask for a solution.

A few differences, mainly they are designed not to produce condensation, a normal fan coil is designed to run below dew point. So these units will have no condescension tray etc.

This is one masonry project, an EnerPHit type of standard. 20mm boards used, and still retained the 10mm that Norrsken asked for. Done with tile adhesive, and stuck on there like shit to a blanket. I flew these through prior to the windows going in, so they created frames for the EWI to be dressed into. These projected out around 160mm, for 150mm EWI + render etc, as you can see in the next pic with windows in. You can use tile adhesive with complete confidence, it’s remarkably good for this application, and way better at staving off damp bridging.

Yes, it seems to grab and hold, and never let go. Dry line adhesive seems to just go off and then you can knock the board off without any real effort. Extended or standard set adhesive will give you 2 hours of open time, so whatever you do, do NOT use rapid set!!

I've seen some odd designs in my time, but this one is way out there..... The red and green loops that head off to the utility, just outright barmy. This is 1st year apprentice stuff, sorry, not great.

They aren’t alone, other fancoil companies are starting to publish above dew point cooling figures, but it’s a tiny market at the mo. Remember, the second mouse gets the cheese.

No, we didn’t. We wanted a single zone with the UFH and we don’t want misty floor tiles. We planned around the Myson iVector 2, but that is not available and they don’t know if or when stocks will come into Blighty. We then spent literally months trying to get info out of the distributor for Maxa fancoils, as one of theirs looked good. But if it’s just too hard to source then what chance future support? Since I have been talking to Clivet and in fairness a member of staff leaving and holidays (Italy shuts for August, apparently) have slowed things down but if the monoblock aircon idea hadn’t landed we’d soon be placing an order, but now we are rethinking. The fancoil market in the UK doesn’t really exist for domestic. The industry is geared up to compete for whole travel lodges and the like. Sometimes the Pooliverse really is trying to tell us something…

I see. I have both these products already. Just have a habit of still calling them “silicone”. Thanks for clarity. And bonding compound for drywall not suitable? Tile adhesives is preferred?

Yeah, seen those, but it seems there is no ability to then add 320mm or 350mm riser on top of it. Something like this: https://www.tradepipes.co.uk/320mm-diameter-chamber-riser-135mm-high?source=googlebase&msclkid=d5cfa3ce6b6b1d0776b3c94ae6007d73&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping Campaign&utm_term=4577816667752085&utm_content=Underground Drainage

I'm sure he must just be talking about the bunch of pipes as it enters the living room. That's all that really changed between the earlier design. I wish I could jiggle with this myself, but I just can't get the software set up satisfactorily.

Wtf?!

Price is horrific, but shop around. https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/axedo-600mm-to-350mm-inspection-chamber-restrictor-ring.html?clickref=1100lDp3y34Q&reqid=73079187&affid=1694&app_clickref=1100lDp3y34Q

Here's a re-jig of the design. The supplier said the following - "I have opened the pipe spacing to 150mm in the Kitchen. This will be fine if you are going to run the Kitchen and Living Room as 1 zone. If the Living Room is to be zoned on its own thermostat then I would keep the pipes at 50mm. I have put just 1 manifold in the Kitchen. This will give you uncontrolled heat in the Study, where the pipes route to and from the manifold from other rooms. Also, the Shower Room is quite a long run to and from the manifold. The hall and Utility are now controlled on 1 thermostat.. might be good to keep them separate, so that you always have the option to control separately in the future if needed?" The Living Room is only separated from the Kitchen by a partition, so it's somewhat open plan. I'm not sure if the uncontrolled heat in the study is an issue? Also, I don't see the issue with the Hall and Utility being on 1 thermostat as an issue, there is now to be no door between them anyway. Any thoughts on this? @JohnMo?

Yup. Hep2o do a pushfit 15mm x 1/2” male BSP, or you can get the same in compression.

Silicone has a very short service life, and tapes & foams are for airtightness, mastics etc are for sealing and weather-tightening etc. Mastic sealant such as CT1 or (cheaper option) Stixall for fundamental frame sealing, then you tape / foam to get airtight. As you’ve boxed yourself in very, very tightly with the windows etc completely filling the spaces I would mask the windows up with about 8-10mm on show, and mastic seal to get your AT in check, smoothing this to nearly nothing. Remove masking and leave to dry for 24hrs minimum. Then when using the tile adhesive you apply a full bed, up to and over the mastic, and whilst that is still wet you dab the reveal boards on, pushing them tight up to the frames. Use stop beads to ‘picture frame’ the reveals to the frames, and skim to those to get sharp, straight, consistent lines.

Standard 1/2" BSP, parallel threads.

This maybe a bit harsh but they look like a guy in his bedroom has cobbled together some pc water cooling parts and fans and 3d printed a case for them and has now set up a company to sell them. (I've not looked hard at them and they are probably doing it properly but they have a very 3d printed look). Pretty much any unit other sold as an FCU will support going below dew point. That's the primary market after all (proper air con performance). It's only a relatively small market of eco warriors and retro fit installations where below dew point is a problem so that will be an afterthought. So trimley have identified a market opportunity. Shame about the design.

I'm guessing you didn't insulate your pipes (and a condensate drain) to give you the option of running a little below dew point if the need arose? What is the FCU you are looking at? Guessing supplier didn't want to sell to non-installer.

Apart from aesthetics I don’t think there is a difference. Many, maybe most FCUs are specced for running below dew point. I am guessing that cooling levels will be about a third at 15°C compared with 7°C flow temp for a room temp of 23°C. Some FCU companies are now publishing 16°C flow temp cooling data, which is kinda handy. I wouldn’t call it fake air con, all these systems have the same components, but it is limited by the desire to avoid condensation. Perhaps we should call it airconlite. But your point about capacity is well made. The best FCU I can find will deliver circa 800W of cooling at 15°C flow temp. These unit’s are about 1.3 x the size of the 1.7kW Panasonic monoblock a2a. So the base plan was to have two FCUs upstairs, and they’d be installed already I’d we hadn’t hit the rocks when trying to buy them. But the more I look at it the better the Panasonic thingy looks. But can I install it myself and still have a warranty…..

Whats the difference between those trimley and a standard fcu? I know nothing. Those trimley don't appear to be the nicest looking things. I looked at the cooling performance I can just imagine my missus moaning that the fake aircon isn’t doing the job properly. I presume similar to other fcu? I suppose the limiting factor is the dew point of water.

Yes, this is the way. And airtight with silicone/sealant?

I have two installed inspection chambers of 600mm diameter both of which are to be reduced in height following a landscaping design change. As part of that change we're also looking to reduce the drain cover size to 320 or 350mm still allowing access for any required clearing. I can find plenty of access restriction or shaft reducing caps, but none of these look like they are designed to allow a change from one riser diameter to another e.g 600mm to 320/350mm (hope the next diagram explains it a bit more) | | ___| |___ | | | | Anyone know of a suitable "riser diameter changer" product?