All Activity

Something like that it seems, but the labels don't indicate 1 and 0. You and me both! I suspect it's 127.5 at least then 255 makes some sense as it's 2 x 127.5 but apart from that who knows whats going on? Good question. Well phrased. Deserves an answer! As you seem to be located in the land of Brink manufacture, could you go and knock on their door and ask them to explain themselves. As far as I'm concerned the frequent flipping from 0 to 128 to 255 and back again is completely abnormal behaviour and must be some kind of software glitch. At this time of year I wouldn't expect to see the bypass move at all so even the early trace of 1 to 0 and back again strikes me as odd.

From the facebook group, 90% of people with issues with this have a sigenergy inverter/battery. But it seems (well) less than 50% of sigenergy users actually hit that problem. I'm on SolatEdge and it's been rock solid. (Wish i could say the same for my attempts to take control of the inverter battery management locally via modbus. On paper that's a more robust setup, in practice SolarEdge just don't support it well - and seem likely to further cripple this in future)

Yes, on one occasion, but with the evidence of future events it may well have been that I just wasn't giving the inverter sufficient time to revert, for some reason the settings don't revert straight away when the Axle event is finished - at least for me. I now set a reminder for 15 mins after the event has finished and check the inverter settings then, all's been fine since.

That's really strange, what's being reported in those graphs! It seems that bypass open is zero, closed is 1, and I've no idea what 128 or 255 could mean -- why would it even have a numerical Y-axis?!

We're almost there......good things come to those who wait Anyone had any problems with Axle restoring original inverter settings after them taking control to force discharge?

👋Calling any Brink Flair MVHR owners 👋 Could someone send me an image of the ‘Status Bypass Valve’ (like the ones I posted above) from a working unit so I can compare and contrast? Thanks in advance. ~~~ Advice from the original supplier “just replace the bypass, they’re cheap as chips”. Which is all well and good, but why it failed in the first place seemed to be of little interest to them. To my mind I fit the brand new, cheap as chips replacement and it fails in exactly the same way in a few months/years time so what’s the point. I’ve got a fair few months to mull this over as I don’t think summer will need bypassing for a while, the unit is reassembled with the bypass closed and the bypass motor disconnected. So all’s good at the moment. I think.

That would be cash, I would cram as much KWh capacity in you can afford/have space for, then play with tariff import (and PV generation) I'll and export rates, got a 23p export slot coming up which runs for a couple of hours, so good to have plenty of capacity then you can export and run your heat pump also. So no point having a small inverter either.

Are talking cash or capacity?

A change of light and it's looking better already... 😂 And I am already thinking that if they'd done this in the first place I would probably have thought 'nice one guys' that they'd actually addressed the inevitable consequence of their bottom row of tiles now sitting slightly higher than ours.

Digester. An efficient 2 days got this done. The groundworker is very good as well as experienced. He said it would take 3 days but I insisted that with our complementary skills it would be easy in 2. And so it was. Wouldn't it be good if we could save 1/3 cost all the time. We disagreed on hole size and concrete mix but I insisted on mean -ness / efficiency. Only 200mm ish extra all round, 1:8 mix, using 2 bags of ballast and 12 bags cement, mixed by the digger bucket. Strapped down using 2 x retired ratchet straps. All is good. See pic. Other good news was coming across ancient land drains at 4m or so centres: as we had anticipated but not yet seen. They've collapsed but will still help tge drainage. 1.7 days for this, allowed some other work about site too.

Quite! One way is to have a drive around a likely location, you often get private signs put up with a phone number. Usually on the urban/countryside edge. Units on farms? Ask on a local facebook page? You need to get creative to find this sort of space, local commercial agents just don't handle it.

Finally got some closure on this, literally! The roofers eventually turned up (couple of no-notice no-shows; I get that things happen but can't they just message so I'm not left hanging? Grrr....) and we had a good chat about it. They were actually far more accepting of my concerns than I expected and I didn't feel that I had to put much effort at all into convincing them corrective action was warranted. I emphasised that it was less about concerns over weathertightness but more the principle that I had somehow ended up with an issue, however minor, on our roof as a result of work they'd done to the neighbours. We agreed they'd remove some of the vent strip so as to shifting the transition back over the neighbour's side and they'd then deal with the resulting gap with lead flashing as per the tile manufacturer had suggested (although to be fair they mentioned this before I did). They used a bigger piece than I was expecting but it's not really visible from ground level and so assuming I'm not going to be making a habit of leaning out of the dormer window to look across (I think last week was the first time I've done that in 15 years!) I am sure I can live with it. I expect it'll darken over time anyway. Furthermore, they were up there for a good half hour and I never felt that they were rushing to get away so I think this is as good as I can expect from them even if there were other remedies available. Thanks everyone for all the input, it really helped keep me going as I was tempted to just let it roll because I'd be the first to admit I can be very fussy about even the slightest aspect of finishing detail and I know from the grief I give myself over such things that I must be a right pain for tradesmen.

The rent is so low that it's not worth spending money on advertising.

I haven't seen any cheap rent industrial space.

Or a loss. It isn't always a profit, and grotty industrial space is very cheap. Rent the space and get on with the boat.

Makes sense. What would you do at this point though?

im still not sure what i really need, do i need it to be that flexible? The SPES seems to have the best of both worlds.

Metals fair better when fully immersed. Standing water left behind that cannot vent off often promotes corrosion or oxidisation forming, so always best to fill the whole pipe run, purge it clear, and cap it off and leave it under pressure (eg fit the cap, and then open the valve and close it again to keep it full and under pressure).

Have you got a name for her then? I went sailing recently and hit a local reef, No Sense Atoll.

The boat i have planned doesnt exist.

That would be a total loss in rent payments, where as buying land , working with no time pressure ( which is priceless ) then selling it again could be no cost or even a profit .

The pipework leading to a level ball valve, Caleffi 533201 PRV with integrated check valve and on to my unvented cylinder and rest of plumbing was installed ~3 years ago. It was filled with water and the first isolator closed. The pipe leading to that first isolator mostly drained though when the temporary feed was disconnected. The pipe was then capped and it has sat since with some water in. Below is a diagram of the pipework up to that closed level valve. The bottom most section of pipe (approx 3ft long) was probably half full of water. Below the diagram are some photos of the inside of the pipe. It looks like that fist horizontal section has some crystals on the top of the inside and black. I got the endoscope up to the first elbow and looking up the first vertical section it looks like is is probably just a bit of blackening. Questions: Is the pipe OK? That first horizontal section looks a little pitted, but is it nothing to worry about? Ideally I'd have a tee at the upper most 1ft horizontal to allow flushing the pipe back towards the brass inlet fitting. There's no movement in any of the pipework so cutting one in now would be tricky. A self cutting drain doesn't feel like a permanent fixture to me. Is there a cleaner I could use for 'static' flushing. I plan to pressure test the pipe with water at 10bar. That will force water 90% of the way up towards the Closed Valve. That would allow a near zero flow rate flush which is what I mean by a 'static' flush. Note: No drinking water will be consumed through any of this pipe. Note2: I couldn't be bothered to set the date on the endoscope but the images were today. Note3: it's all 22mm pipe

i was planning on using tile adhesive for the tray, as the welsh plumber @Nickfromwales recommends, with CT1 around the sides. So should i be going for the SPES gear all round?

Cheers 🤝👍🫡