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What's your take on this @Nickfromwales? CT1 on the trap rim, add the seal, then a bolt load of CT1 on the seal to fill in all that irregularity. Then bring that up to the tray and screw the top clamp ring in bringing the 2 together? There's a top seal as well, not sure that's necessary. Or use that "all in one" seal which came with it, described as "an alternative seal" that seems to traverse from top to bottom, essentially 2 seals joined together with a middle section, I'm sure you'd have seen them. The trap is McAlpine low profile.

I've not had any issues with the velcro in the heat, and I haven't needed to remove the velcro as I leave it on until the next time we have some warm weather TBH if you're looking for a decent finish, I'd do as @Nickfromwales suggests or get proper split unit put in

You've reminded me that I need to set up a Pi for some sensor logging. Carry on trying though - you'll get the outputs you need eventually and its worth the effort. When I first tried, I nearly gave up coz I thought it was all crap and I got rubbish outputs too. Now I'll get me coat as I'm now starting to hijack @Pocster's thread 😲

Go on, how did you learn? Did you do the child process which is just chuck in what seemed like a prompt, get a load of garbage and then refine, or did you study prompting first (I can probably guess). Personally I read a few articles copied and pasted some example prompts to see what happened, got bored and just went in to play and found my way that way. I'm sure I've still got a whole load to learn but tbh outputs are generally pretty on point most of the time.

Your prompt was the issue . If you don’t know what to ask ….. but that’s how you learn

Slight confession, I have been playing with an ESP32 tonight. Got it to log some text over my network. Something I have been meaning to do your years. I did ask ChatGPT to write the Python scripts. The RPi one was good, almost, the uPython was bollocks, but got it sorted the old fashioned way: traditional web search and 20 fags.

Better off having a level sensor that switches the pump off before it runs dry. And you can have a similar for filling the tank from the mains supply, if desired. I'm sure there's also a way to use a shelly relay in the setup so you can have it timed remotely monitored and activated.

Have tweaked up the mixer a little, but if using my heat gun on the pipes at the manifold is anything to go by I seem to have an input flow at around 25C and a return flow at around 24C. The actual surface temperature of the floor is around 23C (though did open the door for a bit earlier). So I guess not much appears to be happening because that is all close to the same temperature - very gentle heating if anything at all. Meanwhile there is no visible change at the surface. I have some marks/surface colour differences where I had mats down on top of the floor during the kitchen install. Lighter colour at the joins where presumably some moisture could escape between the mats. See photos... Should I actually be expecting the whole floor to turn to the same colour ? It has had pronounced colour variations by pour since it was levelled.

On this, I should probably mention that I acquired a balance dysfunction following a bad infection. The legacy of this is that I can't spend vast amounts of time in front of a computer screen ever since. So being in front of a screen and trying to read and write code has been virtually impossible for me for more than 2 decades. The advent of AI for doing this has just opened back up a world that had been lost to me. I never really loved coding and always preferred the design and specification of systems but I still used to create stuff. And now I can do that again without horrible symptoms. So from an accessibility perspective it's rather marvelous too.

I don’t recognise the top hat seal so pretty sure it was two separate seals

Did you use the alternative seal like in the photo or just the 2 singles can you recall?

Yes, not an issue. Mine was like that, the waste seals on the top but plumbers put loads of silicone on the underside as well.

I was listening to Linus Torvalds speaking about AI during an interview where he was saying how useful AI is and its power to identify bugs and vulnerabilities. But he also said that AI wasn't capable enough to fix them - that needed humans. I kind of agree. The problem is that AI can only look backwards to harvest stuff that already exists and then regurgitate that - it doesn't have any imagination at all and certainly can't see a path or opportunity ahead (I think this is a limitation inherent in the cognitive models used to develop the llms and will probably also seriously limit the function of agi unless they change tack) . To develop this functionality, just imagine the size of the required context window, we'd be building a data centre or 2, if not more, dedicated to each and every user.

Actually it looks like this "alternative" flange that came with the McAlpine might make the underside a non-issue?

Once in a certain game if you did a key combo on level 1 my true opinions scrolled up the screen. @SimonD clearly a professional. But when your'e a creative under pressue constantly you aint got time to straighten your tie

Perhaps I should rephrase to considered commenting that is helpful rather than just crap coming out of the numb brain of a programmer who's had enough and bored!

Fabulous insight @sgt_woulds, sounds like you’ve had some interesting times, way too interesting on occasion!

My last self build was all JG with collets, and I had no problems at all with manifolds or anything else. It's all to do with correct installation and then it doesn't matter which system you use. I favour JG for DIY as it's much easier to dismantle joints, especially in tight corners. I used the first Hep system in the early nineties and it was awful, but they've all improved over the last thirty odd years.

And just like that it turned into a PS5 demo...

That nothing to what we would do "turn back , its a (expletive deleted)ing mess" "this wont work" "(expletive deleted) knows" "Jesus this is not going well" "WTF is this?" "Why?" etc etc etc. Sega failed us once because they wanted the obj files for a game. It had comemnts in. That means all the bad lanugauge. Took ages to find all the abuse. The thing was back then when you wrote a game likelyhood of reusing code (unless maybe AI at the time or render engine) was very low. Re invented the wheel each time.

Shower tray from Victoria Plumbing. Under the waste is dog rough, will the seal be ok on this with enough CT1 on the rubber? Trap is McAlpine.

@elite, yes, I now think I will go for the 4mm acrylic sheet which many people use for this purpose, but I won't use the usual velcro strips because I've read quite a number of reviews saying that they come unstuck in the heat, and if you go to renew them you find a nasty lot of glue left on the acrylic which is difficult to remove without using a solvent which wrecks the finish of the acrylic. So I think it had better be acrylic sheet plus window-clips. 24 Pack 3/8 Inch White Window Screen Clips and Storm Window Clips, Offset Retainer Clips for Securing Window Screens and Storm Door Panels with Easy Installation : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools I'm looking for bits to bind the end of the vent tube to the panel. The closest I've got so far is a kit for a tumble dryer but the AC tube vent is 15cms in diameter. Wall Vent PVC Kit Tumble Dryer External Extractor Black Gravity Grille 4" 100mm | eBay UK Surely the fitting exists somewhere? If there isn't a louvre on the end then there needs to be an insect mesh and a guard to stop rain slipping down the tube and into the machine (not that there will be a sudden downpour during a heatwave, but you never know, do you?)

The situation I'm trying to get to grips with is how a water pump controller will work with an irrigation system. Scenario is the garden (Mediterranean island) is irrigated currently by a manually switched pump, fed from an overhead storage tank. The tank is there because the water supply is very inconsistent during summer months, sometimes not being available for a few days at a time. So I'm looking to automate it using a standard pressure regulated and run dry pump controller and timing the irrigation via a suitable timer valve. I know if these controllers detect run dry, (eg tank empty and no mains feed), they switch off the pump to avoid damage which is good. Normally, the pump is in suction mode and in run dry detection, the controller has to be manually reset. (you press a reset button) But with the tank, when the mains water is restored, it'll have water fed to the controller with about 1m head of pressure. So the question is, in this case, would the 1m head of water reset the controller without manual intervention? As I understand it, the presence of water in the controller lifts a small magnetic float that switches in the electronics via a reed switch. Hence this query before spending circa £150 on bits to do this. The ultimate aim being to automate the irrigation to endure the garden gets watered without relying on a gardener to do it. But it needs to be foolproof and it will almost certainly encounter the run dry at some point like last year when the water was off for a week due to the failure of the mains water grid.

@Nickfromwales, the business is to open the window outwards when it's hot and the AC is going to be used, then place a panel or board against the inside of the frame of the window and clip it in place, then to pop the ventilation tube through the round hole in the panel/board. The glazed unit will be untouched. The uPVC frames are sturdy and thick, nevertheless I think you're right in triggering the idea that if the panel is, let's say, a heavy and thick piece of plywood, then there could be some degree of stress placed on the frame. So I think I will go with the 4mm acrylic panel solution, which seems to be commonly used for this purpose.

Which is what I was taught to do in the early 1980s. Does it recognise flow diagrams, assuming they are done correctly? Once saw a comment in a database that said "this is shit code"