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Maybe this will ease your pain... a problem shared and all that. Here is our new kitchen island showing the blank side. You may notice the " feature " knot that repeats and repeats.... and there was no way round this other than rotation. Again it shows that the manufacturer doesn't register this as an issue/ doesn't care. To be fair I don't suppose many kitchens have so many in a row, and at least the pattern is staggered. Would it sell more kitchens if they had several patterns and marketed this virtue? Probably not. I have though noticed some tile manufacturers advertise that their wood effect has 22 or whatever, individual patterns. There will be a table in front of this.

I hate these sort of answers, but it very much depends on the frames you'll be putting in for those doors, to which you would then need to add 2-3mm clearance each side and at the top, and a bottom gap depending on flooring etc. If you've looked at some doors you like, see if the vendor also provides doorsets for them that you would be happy with, and then they should be able to provide you with the structural opening sizes. For example, the link below is JELD-WEN ReadyFIT guidance. https://www.jeld-wen.co.uk/getmedia/03ec61f5-3ec5-4be4-8e78-d5b1abd44743/readyfit-structural-and-clear-opening-sizes.pdf.aspx

We've decided that we are going to fit our own internal doors in our Scottish Danwood build but DW are asking how large we want the structural opening. We haven't started to look at doors yet but I'm working on the basis that we will fit 838mm x 1981mm - we'd like 2040mm high but can't find (m)any in the 838mm width. Could anyone let me know what structural opening size we need please?

Your PS suspicion is correct, as has been observed by @Russell griffiths and @Nickfromwales - the panel should have gone to the floor. Fixing/changing this is by far the best option. Then, when it comes to what to do with the skirting, knowing the type and the profile would help with regard to how best to finish it. Is it a square profile?

We used to have goats when I was youngun and they were buggers to keep in! What worked was electric fencing or tethers. We tried the netting type electric fencing but the horned goat one day appeared in the yard with the fence wrapped around her horns like candyfloss. An electric line along the top of the hedge bank worked well though.

2 and then hopefully find an end panel offcut to fill down to the floor, definitely wouldn't have skirting in front of the end panel

Can't you just try a bit on a less-obvious place?

And it should look symmetrical with the finger gaps both sides too (imo).

Jeremy Clarkson seemed to have some success with geofencing them. And I think he rented them from someone who actually hires them out so a business opportunity there too.

Discussion of virtual fencing here on Farming Forum https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/virtual-fences-on-sucklers.443706/ Not on goats mind.

Looks a lot neater. Did you leave the old mortar and go over it? (I would have)

You are really running your UFH like a radiator system, it's your system your choice, but keep an eye on floor surface temperature. Actual flow temp doesn't mean much, floor surface temp does.

I think I'd do this too. The toekick/plinth bottom will be a good way back (not in line with the drawer fronts) and most of this won't be seen. I would not do any of the options with an angled bit. That looks wrong. A version of 3c might be fine also.

Tax does not have to be complicated. Everything at the same rate, applied to what you want to tax. A friend of mine worked for The Treasury years ago, and became a consultant on their behalf to new and emerging nations (think ex Yugoslav etc.). The main push was to encourage a simple tax regime to minimise bureaucracy, evasion and avoidance. Basically it was "we made these mistakes, learn from ours, don't make your own". I asked why we weren't working towards correcting our own mistakes. "We'd need an autocracy to be able to do that".

Decor end panel should go to the floor.

Personally I would do a combination of 1 and 3a Lateral full-height skirting extends past the edge of the wall overlapping your cabinet and then a reduced-height perpendicular skirting to your plinth Regards Tet

I have jacked my UFH to ~40 degs. We already have a slow-responding UFH system as my pellet boiler takes ~25 mins to ignite and get to operating temp, and whilst it is very clever in maintaining its internal efficiency it means that on cold winter mornings it takes a while to really get going, also it is a little noisier so starting super early in the morning can be disturbing Am I doing any real harm in running my UFH at that temperature? Regards Tet Additional info: UFH Pipes in eggboxes so 100mm centres 80mm screed 100mm PIR (I know, I know)

What sand did you use? I think you are supposed to use a bit of sharp sand in the mix but a lot of roofers ignore this. You can buy a dry readymix just add water product, think it comes with some kind of certificate.

It is a not unreasonable situation and one that would bankrupt someone if income were taxed instead of profits.

What make of kitchen? We've just found that howdens have provided one section as just lots of panels and fittings, and we have to manufacture it. So they are used to providing panels. Maybe your supplier can provide more blanks for that end that should be longer.

You're missing the point. It illustrates why taxing income at a flat rate and not allowing any expenses won't work. There is a reason we tax profits after expenses and not income.

I would take the skirting round the corner with a nice corner joint. You may need to trim the top of the skirt to fit under the unit and would only work if your skirt was no thicker than the end panel of the unit.

For warranty, perhaps. Get the wifi dongle and Panasonic can dial into it remotely and commission it, with some basic info from you. Iirc you’d need the plumber to register for a trade account (just an online registration) on the app to facilitate this.

Indeed. Client had ordered the windows way too soon, so in those pics you can’t quite tell that I had to take a 12” disc cutter to all the outside walls, to enlarge the openings by 25mm to accept those boards. Was a total clusterfeck when I arrived, hence such drastic measures were necessary.

I may need to look for a new job 🤣