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The heat meter measures the flow rate and flow and return temps and calculates a kwh heat transferred number which normally just increases like an electricity meter. Not sure if the return is warmer than the flow if it will decreases the total kwh transferred counter.

Umm it was actually @BTC Builder who was the OP and had the hold up!

As you’re with MBC I guess you’re going passive-ish? If you are (and you should, especially if you’re using MBC) don't put anything through the roof, even if the soil stack is effectively sealed it’ll be an unnecessary thermal bridge. As @Dunc says: That is the way to do it. That’s the way we did it. MBC will do what you ask, and do it well and the airtightness will be spot on, but if you’re trying to be ‘passive’ don’t have that tube going through the roof. Also, don’t put any ducting through the insulation if you can possibly avoid it (you can). Any large ducts through the insulation will degrade the insulation properties where the ducts are, and that’ll degrade the ‘passive’ aspect, the passive bit is worth fighting for, it pays dividends. There is always a better way so that you can keep everything inside the airtight layer, even if it may compromise a little bit of the interior space.

Have a look here at 4.3.6. Gives the gist. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.6.htm

There is air cooling and air conditioning, they are not the same thing. Air conditioning controls the humidity and the temperature.

I'm not an electrician but my electrician was always reluctant to run cable through insulation like that. Instead all cabling was run in ducting installed through the insulation so there's at least some air gap between the cable and duct.

Obviously give it a cursory once over but I bet it would sail through. It's pretty much a box ticking exercise anyway.

Hi there! Getting ready for roofing and in roof PV panels on our MBC build. PV installer says he'll run cables from the PV panels through laps in the roof felt, through the 400mm blown cellulose void between rafters (going in after) then through the vapour barrier below the rafters. Do you have any thoughts about this as I am a bit worried about cables overheating and causing a fire. Is this an accepted approach to cabling?

Awesomeness! Refined the harness code ( I.e told chat it was shit ) - patches approval really high now . Implemented but not ‘ voice ‘ tested … ” play Coldplay “ ” play head full of dreams “ ” play that Coldplay album I played last Tuesday “ ” what Coldplay albums do I have? “ ” play something by Coldplay “ etc etc nice and broad . Also if you mis say or more likely it mis heard “ foldplay” will ask if you meant “ Coldplay “ Again not linked into the whisper transcript yet - just fuzzy qwen:3b ‘guessing’ based on intent and what’s in my LMS database . Currently adding Postgres database functionality

Buy it ! Prove me wrong ! Said that to a girl a few months ago … didn’t end well !

Another MBC build here. No soil stack through the roof (have a separate branch outside to do the venting bit and an air admittance valve at the top of the stack internally to do the anti-vacuum bit. Is that an option for you?). However, as Nick above, we have MVHR ducts and terminals penetrating the inside membrane in the upstairs ceiling (i.e. the airtight layer). Brendan taped them all up no problem at all and the building achieved 0.3 ACH. On that basis all you would need to worry about is your roofer getting a watertight (rather than airtight) seal on the outisde.

If only it were that simple. The screenshot is from the installation manual for that exact model - the Powrmatic Vision H20. I'm more inclined to believe the manufacturer than the salesman? Think about it. It's a bonkers idea that you just turn a mains tap on and then let it run into a drain? Yes, the through wall ones can be had for about 1/2 that price.

That looks like dogshit. Flashing should be up behind the wood cladding, so that needed cutting back, lifting away, and the lead offered up behind it. Woodwork and ridge tile etc is abysmal. Shocking how anyone can say they can do a job like this for someone, when they clearly have zero clue what to do or how to do. 2/10 at best, more like a 1/10 though.

Uncomplicated, small buildings should be dropped in one continuous sitting. Start on a Monday not a Thursday, and avoid the weekend so nothing is left unsafe. Have a plan and 1 person in charge, not a family day of chipping bricks, to reduce the risk of anyone unaccounted being somewhere they shouldn’t be, when things fall unexpectedly. Obvs absolutely ZERO children or pets on site, and fence off access whilst the works go on.

I disagree. Unless you mean as a template. Lots can go wrong so thinking each stage through is important. Access, tools , workwear. Mostly, what might go wrong once x piece is taken out or over a weekend.

It didn't seem to be a personal issue fortunately. They would want this concluded promptly too, having seen your determination. I've dealt with umbrage. Not prepared to back down and accept they were mistaken / my interpretation was valid. To the extent once of finding a different reason why it was acceptable. Probably a £20k decision Determination is my method. And research. Research and determination And being right. Etc Well done @Mr Punter.Punter. I'd love to hear how the vat goes.

A certain building company, which claims to be professional, has left me with a shoddy porch hood. I paid them one third at the end of the first day of work. I have not paid them the remaining two thirds. Please have a look at the worst examples of their work. (There are a total of 32 similarly serious flaws. I have asked another roofer to look at the porch, and a carpenter is soon to look at the woodwork. PLEASE could I have people's opinions as to how to proceed?

My link is!. water in, electric in, drain out. Cost is upsetting though.... Looking back at cheap mobile units where you jsut sticka vent out the door and seal that gap up....

Here's an offcut from a 6 x 2. As is my wont I rescued this from the waste pile and asked why it wasn't kept for noggins. Because of the big split. So I'll ask for the opinion of anyone who is interested. My decision won't change. @ab12 you first?

Unfortunately I have just had a porch hood added over an external door and there are unbelievable flaws in the construction. I'm not certain which side of the roofing membrane should be facing up and which side should be facing down. The photos below show that the two pieces have been laid differently. Which side is correct? As the porch-hood is open to the atmosphere, how important is it that both pieces are correctly laid? (Another flaw is that there is a visible hole in a tile on the right side of the porch. It may not be the only hole.)

Sorry. I meant, thanks for pointing me to the gap which there seems to be under the ridge!

DPC is in the wrong place!

Not an issue tbh. I taped and foamed these to within an inch of their lives. Airtightness score was 0.1ACH on test, so a safe 0.2ACH which I will take allllllll day long. It’s not what you have to tape, it’s who you’ve got, or knowledge and methodology if DIY’ing.