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Presumably full fill too? You can buy those cavity sure trays if not now which give you a guaranteed 25mm or something clear cavity.

The ones I did were floating on an underlay. It was just the joints that were glued to create a floating floor

That's why you've got webbed feet mate!

Never did us any harm as kids: https://www.creosotesales.co.uk/product/traditional-creosote-20-ltr/

MEV is a single fan unit with all wet rooms feeding into a single unit and then to a single outlet through the roof. Get an intelligent one that alters fan speed based on demand, and install humidity activated extract terminals. Then add humidity activated trickle vents, for a fully demand operated ventilation system.

I've done some research & I have a good idea of how it will all fit together. I will draw it all up myself, before I begin. Thanks for the website tip. I'll be sure to take a good look at it. Rather than screws, I think I might buy a nail gun. £400. It would save me some time & could be used on the house build too.

Fix something else in place above the doors that disguises, draws the eye away from, or covers the weep holes (heaven forbid) - a canopy or brise soleil, a light or lights, a whispy climbing plant, trellis, a hook(s) for a patio sail, a hanging basket, a rod, an ornamental bird, a plaque etc

Go big or don’t go in 😉

Yeah, can’t use it on that bit but I’d say 2/3 of the area to be done is floorboards so can use it there. Any tips for the concrete base? Just lots of glue to bottom of each plank and in between the tongue and grooves? Insulation presumably quite important on the concrete base?

Of course not ! The m3 ultra 96gb will be the prototype!

Yes. The BBA certificate is for all exposure zones.

Electric cables in a wall must run in a safe zone. Broadly speaking a safe zone is horizontally or vertically from an electrical accessory, e.g. a socket, or within 100mm of the corner of a room or ceiling. If you want to run electric cables around a room then do so at socket height, and ensure each wall has at least one socket to create that safe zone, and that is where all your mains cables can correctly run around a room.

Won't work on concrete though. I've done floating timber with glued joints before now.

I'm quite happy with my decision to spend zero time trying to imagine whats going on in @Pocsters head!

Of course you were! (though I didn't see the buy of the Mac as part of that, just assumed you were impatient/had money to burn). Glastonbury tickets all over again 😛 Amen. Though before you spend money I assume you have a prototype running (at lower model size) on existing hardware?

@jack?

Condensation is often predicted with cavity walls. That’s the problem with taking the calculation at face value as in this instance any condensation risk is probably irrelevant.

Ah. Yeah so with the “035” wool at 150mm thickness it gives a 0.15w/ wall which is good. But it also shows a heavy set of rain drops suggesting huge condensation risk.

Thanks for the responses. I spoke to the BCO and he finally conceded I can have a vent in the bushes. (Surrounded by broken glass to deter rodents apparently). It was a struggle but he eventually referred to the regs and read this bit out loud: "Where there is no open ventilation on a drainage system or through connected drains, alternative arrangements to relieve positive pressures should be considered." Then said "oh, ok, I'll put a note in to say I have agreed it". That is another stressful issue ticked off the list.

p.s. I was thinking re safety standards / British standards / building control etc rather than interference problems. I see a typical summary e.g. here: https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cmdocs/ElectricalDistance.pdf But it has so many cases, it’s really hard to follow.

In the cavity.

Tell me about this, if I’m venting through roof are you saying I should be looking at MEV? Like an MVHR system?

>>> the electric cable tray must be within 100mm of the ceiling Ah, I was assuming some common sense on this - we’re vaulted pretty much everywhere with a slopey ceiling from about 3.5m at the eaves. I was planning on putting the trays above the doors at about 2.4m.

PS I was supposed to sell it once the floor was finished but didn't - was thinking about doing a Buildhub loan on it as a way of giving back but no idea how to go about it.......

I bought a second hand portanailer - to do an oak floor........ I had to rebuild the bloody thing and replace some parts but once "serviced" it was brilliant to use and little or no effort with a perfect result on every nail (only time I had to drill and hand nail was for the last two rows)