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  2. £280 wouldn't even get you 2x labourers or apprentices in the south east imo. It seems roughly correct for a groundworker, although I'm not familiar with the rates they can charge.
  3. That's what I had to do. Had to break out a load of concrete to get access though, which is why I was looking for a short cut. Decided to do it properly though
  4. Sensible deviations should be allowed, per case, with the applicant paying the admin fees to review and resolve each case. Wheelie bins in a nice store at the head of the access to a property should be acceptable, vs ugly rows of bins being left permanently on display (to the detriment of the area). Homeowner can then transport refuse to the bin store at their inconvenience. On bin days you pull the bins out of the store to the kerbside. Simples. "Nick for president!!!!" I suggested a used golf buggy to my current client, with a trailer, for doing the 200m 'refuse runs'. Fleas come with the dog, with adverse sites, but the owner can decide if they are happy to accept the compromise and inconvenience (or build somewhere else!).
  5. Today
  6. For a current new build I'm consulting on, 200m driveway, the fire brigade said that they would simply lay down hoses to go up the drive, and reach the nearest hydrant in the lane. They are willing to provide a supporting statement, agreeing that the presence of an "Automatic Fire Suppression System" (Mist or sprinklers, mist in this case) mitigates the majority of their concerns. The client suggested a 45,000L holding pond, or even paying to extend the hydrant feed in the street onto their property (at cost) and the fire brigade remained pragmatic and agreed that simply laying out hoses would be 'the norm'; plus they'd likely dispatch a water bowser to arrive as a failsafe anyways. Start talking to these people and you may be pleasantly surprised.
  7. Go for a mist system. Speak to the council and they're usually amenable, and will provide a solution for the bins.
  8. John, the current setup works. We are comfortable the way the loops are and by adjusting flows to each. I am only interested in whether I can remove or bypass the buffer tank and rely on the heating pump in the outdoor unit to continue to make the water flow through the UFH.
  9. @SimonD, is there anything else you are seeking information about? A bit more below. FYI the heat pump is about 3m from the plant room (LGF where the manifold is), connected by 28mm insulated pipework. The UVC (250l) is in the plant room. Motorised valve switches between heating and DHW. Heating flow goes to the buffer tank (50l), then a pump on the flow to the two manifolds. These have no mixing valves or secondary pumps. All heating pipework is 28mm copper in the plant room, all insulated. About 10m of this on flow and return to furthest (UGF) manifold
  10. I could have asked, but you posted an image that stated 1/2", so would have been a wasted question. But as your using 16mm, all is good. But your loops are really only designed to fit the space, not to match the room heat loss. The loops per room, should be matched to heat loss. Balancing is possible with manipulation of flow rates through each loop, but there is a limited effect, if your circulation pump modulates.
  11. Thanks Nick. Builder thinks we need to put some footings in .
  12. I know you are trying to be helpful on here. There are perhaps better ways of wording some of things you post. e.g. you could have asked what pipe size I used, and sought a better explanation for the pipe layout (which equally I could have provided a better explanation for up front)
  13. Never meant to be aggressive.
  14. Sometimes you comments come across a bit passive aggressive. UGF. Open plan to the left. Large single room to the right. A hall where the small blue loop is shown (but not fitted). A utility and cloakroom where the small read loop is shown (but not fitted). LGF. On the left each loop is a separate room. The 2 large loops to the right are a single room. All pipes are 16mm. No loop longer than 95m as laid.
  15. Might be easiest to suck it and see by bypassing the accumulator with the flow pipe and replacing the scondary pump with a straight section of pipe. Avoid sharp bends/elbows in the accumulator bypass!
  16. All I can say is they are pretty pictures. But unless both spaces are fully open plan, there is zero design work going on. Pipe sizes is questionable. 1/2" pipe isn't really suitable, you should be using 16mm. Your loop length can be around 100m, so the smaller loops can be deleted and incorporated into other loops if you wanted. For info I am doing 7 loops in total for the same heat load.
  17. Lost track of websites visited, videos watched. Glad I asked here
  18. It’d be brighter with windows on 3 aspects wouldn’t it?
  19. I was thinking the (vertical) frame timbers would be fairly snug up to each side of the window but actually they could stand clear. Then my vertical battens would be spaced as you show. Thanks!
  20. Two storey building. Outdoor unit is level with the upper floor. We have UFH on both floors. Lower floor has 7 loops to a manifold. Upper floor has 7 loops to a manifold (in the UGF file attached, the small red loop and the small blue loop to the upper right were left out).
  21. This may help https://johncantor.uk/pressure+flow/simulator.html
  22. I have actually but decided against it. What's the benefit?
  23. Normally you will leave the battens short of the window opening so the air can flow round. Like this:
  24. I used the aluminium vent strip the 25x50 strip with all the holes in, this is finished on top of the cladding with a small gap between this and the overhanging window cill.
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