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Apologies for the delay and thank you for very quick responses to my questions. @Redbeard thank you for explaining the rule of thumb, I had a small read about it was initially thought it was about the amount of rafter covered not relative to thevR values of insulation used (I'm not fibbing when I say I had a small read on it). I am now looking at woodfibre sarking boards following @SimonD suggestion, they seem to also provided a very good vapour permeable substrate. @Iceverge I was on the understanding I need a nice strong vapour control layer internally and all materials leading up through the roof ideally need to be more permeable than that... until we reach the standing seem roof. @Nickfromwales a quick bit of maths has the rafters working out to be around 3500mm. They will be butted up to an I beam ridge that will be packed out with timber. Roof pitch is 40 degrees. Please have a good nose through the drawings, our architect is good but hasn't provided us with true detailing. Our SE drawings a more accurate and informative. I look forward to any more insights you can provide. 24066-R01 - Structural Calculation Report 240925 (dragged) 5.pdf 01923-HBA-DR-1008_BR02_Proposed Section AA copy.pdf 01923-HBA-DR-1012_BR02_Window Junction Details copy.pdf

I have one in a student HMO. I have also had the undersink type with storage in an office suite. Neither property has gas. I don't think I would want one at home.

If I can ask some more questions. I was thinking sarking is the correct name for the felt fitted under the tiles....but I think I'm wrong...its the OSB forming the valley? I've been in the loft today and can see somehow with this constant rain water has gotten behind the tiles and is staining the roof felt/sarking under the tiles on the larger valleys. So a question.....can I use Classicbond instead of the sarking/felt when the valleys are redone. I realise sarking/felt allows air through and rubber will not so is this an issue? The larger valleys are an extension above the garage which protrudes from the front of the house hence 2 valleys. These valleys meet at the ridge of the house whilse the other 2 pairs of valleys of the original house meet before the ridge. The roof is Marley Bold Roll dry verge installation. Looking at the felt in the loft it looks like water is getting in at the top and also lower down. Lower down could be valley pointing I guess, but at the top? It will last the winter but needs doing this year. Thanks for any advice. Kind Regards.

You’ve got it ! After building for 10 yrs a bit of variety and fun projects are required !

Rain everyday I think . Nothing has come through though since last post . Have mostly built my internal sky light internal gutter -ready to install .

Electric instants are dire at best. The 3ph ones are amazing, but single phase are pretty shit and completely driven by cold water temp; in winter, they get soooo much worse performing.👎 Add the cost of a huge cable to supply it, electrician costs to supply / fit, and the eye-watering amount of electricity it will gulp whilst you are using it. Fit a hot return, and enjoy the benefits.

Remember this is local and no LLM overkill . It was look at this today or painting …

Clearly you don’t understand the issue . You cannot get Alexa to do exactly what you want without jumping through hoops “ Alexa play a random album by Coldplay “ and it selects a random cold play from your squeeze box and streamers to a default streamer . Or “ Alex disable jamma cabinet “ - recognises my voice only and does that . You can frig some of these but it’s a pita also Amazon can cause issues . I can and will have dashboard when done that these things are selectable. Home assistant voice can do these things with some effort but as said it’s microphones are crap . “ ok nabu radio on “ ; asking it then to turn radio off it won’t be able to mask out the background radio !!! Once you have a stable reliable system there are many things that can be achieved - limitation is people’s imagination. Posting here will of course land on lots of “ why bother “ views . Take my home cinema setup . 1 button does about 6 things ( SWMBO friendly ) yet some of this hardware has no Bluetooth / zigbee / WiFi - so making dumb things work in the chain can be challenging. Some of you have no vision …. 😆

Easily ! Mac Time Machine - backups up automatically every day / week

Is it just aluminium? Sleek look with minimal sightlines. You’re looking something like Solarlux Cero, Cortizo, Q-Fort, Reynaers, Schuco etc. These can be a bit pricey.

For some reason I wasn't notified of these replies so only just coming back to this topic. Do you know of other manufacturers that will include a structural beam between the sliders and the glazed gable? We're looking for something like this (sent from the supplier) but ideally all supplied and installed by the same supplier rather than getting the structural beam specced and installed separately:

Used to swear by Balcotan but that's discontinued . The Soudal is as close I can get now Another option is Collano Semperoc which is recommended for marine use but its lighter in colour than most PUs and shows up more on furniture which is generally what I use these glues for

i used Soudal and can recommend. I also nicked from Egger from work and wasnt as impressed with that one.

I’ve got 2 3ph ASHPs. Cables not particularly chunky as they’re running at less than 20A as the power is split across the phases. That was my main driver to keep the loads spread on my connection and avoid a huge peak consumption on a single phase which would exceed my 60A fuses. Yes they’re big. They’re 15m away from the house behind an outbuilding so noise isn’t an issue. Pipe runs were annoying but are what they are. 300m2 and seem to run at about 5kW heat loss at 3degrees outside temp. House is a bit of a frankensteins monster of new bit, well insulated and old bit not so much.

Strongest would be good.

You guys have been helpful. It seems like the 10mm foam filled boards like marmox or delta board ARE sufficient for my bouncy timber floor ... Just as much as a cement board would be... And will provide some insulation. I also hear the benefit of foam filled for allowing flex of floor rather than cement board - so UFH or not , may still be. Abetter choice. The area of the floor being UF heated (living space) is much less creaky or bouncy than the kitchen part .. so I also overthought thinking I'd use cement board in one part and foam one in the other part . Lol. I'm going nuts

#victoriandad lol.

I think that may be a problem with the OS. Dedicated hardware does not need the same sort of heavy overhead systems to run. But yes, (expletive deleted)ing stupid idea.

The thing that gets me about spending countless hours configuring and setting up some custom home brew voice control system, is how do you easily back up all the configured software, so WHEN it goes wrong you can just re install it again in a flash and it will all just work again. It's bad enough with my Pi music box rebuilding that each time it crashes, and there is not much customisation of that.

Why not one HP and some supplementary resistance heating for the coldest times?

That would make the tiling job harder and worst still make it the next job in the queue....

Hi folks, There's one last bit of concrete floor to pour for my garage /outbuilding. 8 x 6m, 150mm thick C30 with A252 mesh. It is however bounded on 3 sides (the two 6m wides ends and one 8m long side) by existing concrete slabs. Should I put in foam expansion strips along these edges? Concrete shrinks when it sets doesn't it, so presumably gaps will open up anyway. So just fill them with suitable flexible sealant afterwards?

Seems you’re off the hook mate

WTF Just put a switch or dial on the wall FFS.