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Well spotted. Nowhere near enough fixings have been used. @dan_cup, one top an one bottom, repeated as much as you can afford.

The heart wants, what the heart wants.

You are like a wrinkly ninja............and we never know when you will next strike, silently, but always deadly.

Directly on to the Insulated Raft. At the time it was £75/m^2. If you follow the link to my post that -rick- posted, it's got the full info in there.

You should have lots of fixings. The whole floor load, where raised, is resting on the fixings.

On top of what? Can you recall the price level?

Option C - Previously the basin and bath went into a hopper where you can see the two temporary downpipes, these are currently just feeding into the old drain which is still there below the slab and working - ie., A & B join up underground anyway. Reading the regs again, it does say that boiler condensate should be downstream of a sink (basin?), so maybe it's best to use this and box it in after all? It would still be vented at the boiler end.

There is also 'stick' build.

I can recommend the poured resin option. I also considered all the alternative options. Mines a two colour resin, in the style of a polished concrete finish and most people that visit ask if it is a polished concrete, even though it wasn't the intention to be an exact copy. Lot's of colour options and the different lacquer coats allow for matt, sheen or gloss finishes. I've been pleasantly surprised at how durable it is. It still cleans up (mostly) like new after 9 years and ours has a hard life. They can be re-top coated as well should it ever start to show the wear and tear or you want a different colour/finish.

Porcelain tiles? I considered polished concrete but couldn’t stomach the cost for something I thought less durable.

There’s no room to jack them up, the bricks on the top side are in contact with the joist so I’d be jacking the wall up. Anyway fired some joists along side. Hopefully do the job

Has anyone got any updates in this area? I have run into this issue. We have a dormer in the loft space which is the master bedroom. There is a large opening window to the side which exits onto the flat garage roof albeit with a ladder. We are required to have a fire protected hallway as the property is three storey. The regs around fitting fire doors will clash with the air flow for the mvhr system and I'm not into that idea. Also we would like a large slider on the doorway into the main kitchen/diner/socialising room. I've read that we can go down the route of a performance based solution supported by a fire officers report. This would involve a misting system, wired smoke alarms, heat detector in kitchen and automatic shut off to the mvhr. This will get us away from fire doors but I'm open to simpler suggestions if anyone has anything. I do like the slide idea ; ) Cheers

Not so much if it’s solid masonry, but it’s defo not a good idea to have a (pumped) manifold on a bedroom wall. I always strategise where plant / etc is going to be located, but these pumped ones are defo not ‘completely silent’ and us humans tend to try our hardest to listen for something, hear it, and then tune into it to torment ourselves forever more. One clock in my living room met its maker due the the stupid-loud ticking and tocking. 🪦 🕰️ ☠️ 👍

Re overheating with your WBS. That is said a lot, and if heating a single room that is not huge that may well be so. But our house basically has 2 rooms either side of the entrance hall, each with double doors facing each other. So when lighting the stove all those doors are open so the stove can heat the whole house not just one room. Like that it will burn for a few hours nicely heating the whole house without any particular space being uncomfortable.

I was tempted by a pruning chainsaw at the local market. Incl 2 batteries £30. But my sensible self decided it would be poor, maybe dangerous.

Having extended a mortgage to buy some sensible capacity genuine Makita batteries I am way too nervous to risk a Fakita anything. Perhaps I need to screw my courage to the sticking place (with a genuine impact driver, no doubt]!

A thought, and maybe not a good one. My shower valves have 25mm compression joints. The thread on these is 1/2” BSP, so the same as a basin tap. Can I just remove the nut and olive and use a HEP2O tap connector straight on to these? Am I missing something obvious?

First time we lit ours, we melted. BUT, treat it low and slow, one log at a time, min air for a clear burn, let it burn almost completely repeat. 3 or 4 logs will heat whole house with ease, without melting you Go through doors not under wall - minimise risk. Ours is flowing through 7 loops, but heat pump has circulation down at 7L/min, can't hear a thing now and when flow is 3x that. No pump though and do you need one - no.

Wow it's looking really great, Susie and in by the end of the year, how exciting. Thanks for the update. Can you remind me on what heating etc you're planning on. Obviously underfloor heating and solar. What water heating? mvhr? Currently looking into this and can be confusing as people are naturally looking to sell rather than recommend. Any pointers would be gratefully received. Thanks

That's why 😅

Right, I've made it to the outside and need to figure out the arrangement here... Hopefully it's clear that the original / temporary stack is to be removed and the new stack is going over to the right. Option A - I personally prefer this because it gives me a sharp drop immediately after the WC outlet - similar to the way it was installed originally which has always worked very well. Its a bit lower, but still around 2.4m at the join to the new stack Option B - seems more conventional, about 200mm higher. Might end up having to use a strap boss for the 50mm pipe at the stack which I don't really like. What's the preferred way to do this, and whereabouts are inspection / access covers recommended? Pipework all to be boxed internally:

With experience now of the steading stove. Externally fed air makes for extremely efficient combustion with even a single log glowing brightly. The tiny amount of ash confirms the efficiency too. So it doesn't have to be a huge blaze with multiple logs as in old draughty burning boxes. Is it justifiable? The steading is rentable and gorgeous, so it's a big plus. Although it is highly insulated the heat isn't excessive and is controllable Plus it's a backup in case of power outage.

Is manifold noise likely to be noticeable through a block wall? (Thinking about my own locations now!)

My off peak times covers both circuits, so I run the washing machine during off peak hours as it is cheaper. When it is really cold, I run a fan heater in the morning to heat up rooms. But I am often up by 4AM. I have also put timers on my off peak circuits, this limits the time to the last 3 hours of the E7 window. This works fine for me as my storage heaters and DHW are charged closer to the times I need them. My life is easy as I live alone.

No probs. If you want you can add one of these in the cupboard to ensure you don’t use more timed peak rate than necessary (eg you won’t forget to turn it off). Link