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Title problems can sometimes be fixed with negotiation? By all means get in touch with me, you can find me easily on the internet or DM me. But in the round my preference would be for you to share as much info on BH as you can, to benefit other members. I without doubt don't know everything! I enjoy learning from others on BH. Stick with BH for now.

Accepted

We don't enjoy doing this, trust me, but it's for your own good...... 😉😆

Soz about looking at floor and not the wall. I'll go back to the corner

Shut your face-ya. lol.

Ive been stood there like a naughty boy looking at the floor until the next post came up to gain my attention. Thanks Nick. My legs were starting to ache a bit.

Can you go and stand in the corner, face the wall, and we'll tell you when you can come and join the class again.

Looks like you've bought 'commercial' units. DALI stuff needs external control. https://www.nvcuk.com/technical-support/view/what-is-dali-8

Wiring diagram please!?

Roller twice with trade white, and get your ass to the pub

Not sure which room is which ( take sliding doors to indicate one most used rooms?), nor how old kids are, but how about wide tread, shallow steps down? Not necessarily cheap but would give view downs to grass and double up as extra seats? (Could be done more cheaply to start with, grass treads over sleepers or like with a view to a paved version in future)

Not the point I was making. Cables run in insulation overheat, so in the regs it states you should avoid this; if you cannot then you MUST upsize the cable (considerably) or downsize the circuit protective device accordingly. As a 16yr old apprentice for SWEB, we were asked to connect a 3kw 3bar electric fire up with 20m of 1.0mm twin & earth cable, and run a test on how hot it got. It actually coped OK sat on the concrete floor of the training centre. We were then told to roll out 20m of loft insulation, lay the cable on it, and then to fold it over the cable, and repeat the same test. Then followed molten PVC and a very short but loud bang as the cable went nuclear.

Like an utter moron, i forgot to make clear that the 2g solar glazed v 3g std glazed part of this question relates to the rooflight only. The slider and window are going to be 2g only. They have been leaning towards 2g opening Velux rooflight with solar glass, but i feel a standard triple glazed unit offers more for the same cost. If the room gets hot during summer, and to some extent due to solar gain, they can open the roof window to allow warmer air out. The benefit of 3g during winter is surely a real advantage, as it has better ability to trap any rising warm air generated by UFH within the room. To my thinking, 2g with solar control glass is moot if you can vent the bloody heat out.

Is it correct for the undercloaking board to be angled at the end to sit over the fascia? I've seen quite a few new-ish wet verges where the undercloaking seems to be done with something thinner and more flexible looking than cement board, what might that be? Looking at the main house (and every house on my street), they've used upside down roof tiles...

This wall and drop is where we are stuck. We want to level the lawn so it has only a gentle slope. But we also want to see the lower lawn section but can't have a 1m retaining wall without a fall protection wall at the top. We will either be ditching the wall and just have a bank, or maybe a hybrid 600mm drop and then banking down to a total 1m drop over a 3 metres. We want to try to level off the lawn section as much as possible for kids to play on. Here's a picture from the FF window. It was taken just after midday, with sun from South on right hand side. Its funny how, now the house is built, its obvious that the kitchen window should have been on the back wall facing the garden at the rear, where the plant room is. Plant room should have been at the side of the house where there is no view out. Oh well, too late now. Looking out into the garden was on darling wife's list of priorities but she hasn't noticed this planning blunder yet. I'll not mention it. 😬 Our sewer connection is at the far right corner so we will need to drop a pipe under the lawn, and, I guess, an IC at the patio for a vertical drop, if we have a retaining wall. We have a set aside some budget for landscaping to include a wall if required. What to do 🤔

Grinder (shank bit) or drill @Onoff ?

@JohnMo How far are your manifolds from the ASHP? Do the pipes from the ASHP run in the floor insulation or...?

When using these... https://rockbottomnorthampton.co.uk/products/draper-tungsten-carbide-grit-hole-saw-20mm-34866? I first smear a dab of copper or aluminium anti seize on the thread of the drill arbour. I constantly spray water on the drill. Periodically I hold the core drill with a bfo pair of moles or an adjustable spanner across the flats of the slots and reverse the drill to remove. Then knock the accumulated, compacted crud out with a bit of stud or rod. Go again, repeat.

Depends on the size of room one cable in the far side of open plan room is better in conduit for our build than making a service void in all of vaulted ceiling.

For the sake of completeness, I thought I'd list the 'issues' I came across while doing the drilling; Here's one - I used AI to see if I could find an answer to the problem ( remove the broken stone stub ) . The answers - tap, poke, fiddle didn't work. Since I don't have a pillar drill any more, this ( below ) is what I'm going to try next ( 48 holes yet to be drilled ) The aperture of this drill is a good bit bigger, and there's a slot for a screwdriver to wiggle broken bits of stone out of the core. The narrower one above has no slot. I'm thinking of using the type of core 'drill' that attaches to a grinder (threaded shank) rather than a drill chuck - because I will be able to exert more pressure. But I'll have less control perhaps (?) Anyone have any advice?

😱 As the cover is plaster of paris I assume it's mega thirsty when I paint it. Just go with the same process, mist coat then the Permawhite over the top?

Have 8 led strip lights I was going to use in workshop, upon opening to wire they are not strip lights as thought but lots of individual leds. The wiring is for 5 wires, presume 2 are control wires? I wired up the live n neutral and they do work at that but not very bright. Can they be brighter if control wires are used or are they just dull lights?

Here's that post I made reference to above

Doesn't really help you make a decision one way or another but I'm expecting to use a combination of chased runs and some battened areas. My thoughts: Chased runs should make the build quicker, and will reduce the materials/labour that would be needed if all walls were battened and then plaster boarded. Granted, some of that cost might still be needed for conduits as @Nickfromwales pointed out but overall there should still be a saving. I don't think the reduced insulation in areas where the chased cables are mounted will be sufficiently great as to impact the EPC/thermal value of the envelope. Not battening all walls religiously gives more space internally. 100mm/4" isn't much but it's a lot to some...😳 Having said that, I'm keeping my mind open to whether some areas might benefit from having battens behind the plaster board. For example if there are a lot of ethernet cables coming down a wall into a server/switch area; perhaps even where UFH pipes are emerging into a manifold. Remain flexible.