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They are expensive, but you shouldn't need to pay anywhere neer 7k or 8k. Other threads have details of much more modeatly priced Moralt ones. Also, remember you don't need the ones marketed "passiv" as long as u-value is good, and it is airtight and FD30 rated. We paid £1685.00 a couple of years ago for full doorset. The "passiv" version was £2206.00 for minor improvement in u-value.

Yes they have 'feathering compound' which they used in a few places. I think the youngster laying mine should probably have used some feathering compound on the grinding marks but didn't. I didn't see the grinder/sander being used but the machine was substantial and with vacuum extraction; I get tired of all the bullshit, salesmanship and and attempts at asserting authority over customers because - 'I have measured floors for 25 years and I can tell you this one is excellent'. I still think someone should make something like a robot vacuum that could crawl around a floor measuring and marking contour lines.

Looks excellent. Did you put a spirit level across it checking it yourself ? How flat do you reckon it is ?

Let's come back to the subject in 2 or 3 years.

If you cannot afford to loose a bit of space inside the i would sort the exterior walls first and let it dry out on inside the permagaurd is breathable to a degree--how much I cannot quantify but the moisture can evaporate from the inside it would have originally been done with lathe and plaster --which does leave small gap between stone and plaster you may have seen older houses with wooden panelling "wainscotting" from floor up to about 3 ft --that was to stop the rising damp from wetting the plaster --you can buy them but easy to make with t+g floor boarding --and a handy shelf on the top old house with suspended floors did not need it as much if outside ground level was low enough outside

all skirtings were fitted after cement board and self leveling -but before LVT-- so the grinder did not damage the skirtings i ma guessing there is too much of a gap inthe poly/pipe boards and that why they are moving -- all guess work

if you can afford to use 100mm +on inside of each exterior wall then build a 4"stud system --leave all the old plaster etc where it is and have a 50mm gap from studs to walls just make sure you have ventilation from below floor into your roof space -- job done If not then you will need to make sure outside of walls are lower than floor lv house will have no DPC --so you will always have some rising damp from ground -- If you can dig down round the house and make a gravel channel ideally top to be 6" below floor level and about a foot deep fit a french drain in bottom under the gravel --that should stop any rising damp as well then do what you like with choice of insulation and new PB - this air gap will also give you space for rewiring and plumbing etc

I'd also be reluctant to do anything drastic and expensive, hopefully the whole floor will float but stay flat and you'll get used to the creaks. One possible explanation might be a lack of expansion gaps around the edges of the room, so if you do ever need to investigate further I'd start by taking all the skirting off before doing anything to the floor itself

treat exterior walls once old render is removed with permagaurdmicro shield ultra or other similar product as long as pointing is ok then it will definatly work and stop an ingress through the stone work check it out will seal up to 2mm gaps worked a treat on my old house -- do not even bother with thompsons or similar cheaper type products do it once and do it right goes on like wallpaper paste and gets sucked in and drys clear and does not change colour noticably of the stone in about 2-3 hours job done for next 20uyears +

That works, but save some money and just use Thermolites. They are in a nice dry area, so will.work well.

his problem is poor preparation nothing else it needs to be flat like a slate bed from a snooker table -absolutely dust free before you start laying -- then it easy any imperfections in floor slab will show through using a hand held 9£ grinder will never work --needs to be the unit that looks like the old school floor polisher with extraction --big and heavy

Hmm yes I think you are right, we were going to go for tiles but now my lovely partner has pointed out that vinyl will be easier to clean!

Or we could start building stone houses again but with modern cutting equipment when I looked at I found chineese company that would supply granite building blocks any size with a 1mm + or - tolerance if they can do it so can we and we plenty of granite and other stone in this country use thinset mortar and lay with a digger as i have in my many wall constructions - then just build a TF inside insulted how ever you like no external finishing and there for the next 300 years

AFAIK yes. If it's easy to try before you go down the pump route you could try that first. If you just want a PIR in the one room don't bother with a shelly, just use the PIR to switch the pump. If you want to feed from a PIR outside the bathroom (as an advanced notice with timing restrictions) then wire it to one of the Shelly's switch inputs. If you want to go wireless with the PIR wired to a transmitter and the shelly receiving it gets more complex and I would guess if you are doing pipe work it's not too much hassle to feed a cable along the route as well.

I wonder whether you can grind and then fill the grinding marks. Car body filler comes to mind, although it’s a long time since I used that

Thanks @Spinnyand @-rick- - I think I will put in the secondary loop in 15mm, and then I have options: use a pump (the Wilo SB 30 looks decent) or, if I find that setup problematic, then repurpose it as the actual feed to the shower. It would mean the hot being in 15mm and cold in 22mm, but presumably it would still work. Would you hardwire the PIR to the Shelly? I was imagining some kind of WiFi control but I'm new to home automation.

thats because the door and its frame it fits too are designed with lots of shapes in them to give rigidity and rubber seals --at least 2 sealing rings in effect not exactly burglar proof as you can usually flex the top half enough to get in how many house doors make secondary noise and vibration when you shut them -- cos they only held into the flexible wooden frame by about 6 fixings with packers the best metal door in a building you will see are the modern fire door assemblies --which are meant as much to stop break ins as anything else not pretty or cheap and none have any sort of insulation that would comply with any regs but once you get to van back doors which still are not as big as a house door they often deform in a very short time with use we all know it can be done --but costs will be the problem the ,modern door assembly has its faults but pretty good overall to me the way forward is wall sections made in factories on an assembly line any length you like--one storey high and holes cut in them for frames and all insulation already fitted--"sips" style certainly the house would go up in a day roof sections the same done right it would cut down on need for trusses -just add slates or tiles to taste maybe be channels in walls for services would be good ==but full finished --too inflexible

I could be wrong, but my understanding is that the marmox block simply needs to sit at the same level as the PIR insulation.

That is a clever option, but I would need to protect the membrane whilst the shell is built.

plastering robot --thats a joke no way it would work in real world

loosen and give them a twiddle you will see what they do

I think our low uplift for extensive PV may be down to the Assessor, but maybe a limitation of RDSAP not accepting the uncertified 8.5kw of self installed PV?? Another quirk was that the Assessor reckoned we may have scored slightly better with a modern gas boiler over the ASHP we have. His explanation for this was that as we are heating with radiators the system assumes a 55 degree flow temp which hits the HP efficiency. He reckoned there was no way to alter this to our actual flow temp of 30ish. I think the new HEM would likely give us a way better score than RDSAP but that will have to wait for another day

I think the choice will depend on the floor covering sounds like a good place for old fashioned viynl or armstrong type floor covering

what ever the casue and some more investigation since i posted tells me the cement board that are laid over the piping sheets --to act as heat sink should also be glued together with a special foaming type adhesive which allows for movement so the solution is not one i want to contemplate --ripping it all up and doing it the right way--i cannot see the builder doing it and cost to do would be very high new lvt -- new self levelling and cement boards etc - i think i will have to live with my ghosts

no thats all down to you i,m afraid maybe sander with good dust extractor and alot of PPE