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That is a very well designed and executed car port which looks like it will stand the test of time, as well as the Scottish climate. Nice job.

Airflow is paramount. Convection should be fine; air can get in the bottom (under the plinths) and out the top, in equal quantities. The thin styrofoam / EPS wallpaper stuff is a very good addition to this, which I’ve used myself with surprisingly good results, as it stops the very cold wall from having such a temperature differential to the internal (room) temp and humidity. If moisture can’t cool down it can’t then condense.

One example. I wish I took more pics of more jobs but I was always flat out from one to the next Client here was an ‘under tall’ person, needed armbands to use the stupidly massive bath. Nice deep niche, and all of the wet areas got tanked to death. Hope this helps.

Can't happen. It's in a corner with an external wall one side and stud wall the other, where "everything" will be. But the door is hinged right next to controls so that should avoid the cold splash issue by opening the door wide to turn on the controls.

NONE are right. The controls do not want to be on the same wall as the shower head or else your arm gets showered with cold water as you reach in to turn it on. The controls should be on one side wall, far enough along the wall you can turn it on without getting wet, and only step in when the hot water has reached the outlet.

Interested in opinions and experience tis all!

You don't need any additional sensors, just run above dew point then zero issues. Dew point depends on house temperature. But generally you can run 14 to 16 degs without issue. You don't need a buffer let alone another one. Run it all single zone. Unless you have a real reason to run multiple zones. Two types of fan coils, one designed for below dew point and others that don't. The ones that don't are cheaper and you can run same temp as UFH flows so have a simple system. Just do direct heating, save money buying a heat pump cylinder and heat on ToU tariff. Then you can run heating and DHW in cheap periods.

Next question: I've got 3 x Velux windows to go in. The architect's drawing says "Passive ventilation around rooflights to be by Glidevale [or similar approved]. To be installed and spaced according to manufacturers instructions. Does that mean ventilating tiles, one above and one below each Velux? Is this a new thing as I've never seen a Velux window with this sort of ventilation. With my particular build up, with ply etc. is there any other way of doing it - ventilators in the ply below the tiles above and below the Velux, with the sarking over? Will it look a bit daft with the roof littered with ventilating tiles?

You can't choose so ask a bunch of strangers. 1st left is way better than the rest,but I would align everything to to mid line of the large square, so drop the left box to middle line of the larger one. Leave the bottom small box where it is.

Battery was MCS install, but PV wasn't, so I did the paid Octopus approved scheme for export. They weren't interested in the battery MCS, didn't tick any of the right boxes.

Me and SWMBO have had a few Proseccos and we're unable to agree on the best layout for our shower enclosure. See attached, really interested in opinions as we've never actually had a shower before unless in hotels... For reference, she's the shorter line on the left and I'm the longer line on the right. She needs to wash her hair, and shower and NOT wash her hair. I don't have that issue (bald). Entry is on the right, so controls on that side make sense to turn on without getting soaked in cold water. We need a niche of sorts as the enclosure is quite tight, 900x800 and we're hoping to not have a riser bar but if needs must. The smaller square up a height is a secondary location for the shower wand thing. We may have a young'un at some point also. At this stage, everything is still on the table as all I have so far is the ibox. Suggestions, design choices, opinions welcome 😁

Did you need to get your battery install certified or did you jusT plug it in?

I use Predbat so managed battery SoC and import via Cosy and export Agile. Little bit of faff setting up, once done seems to work well.

Ours is similar. Find in winter Cosy is generally cheaper, but I have a 13.5kWh battery to lean on. So generally paying currently 13p, was 10.6p last week per kWh. Yep, I just used immersion, leaves ASHP for heating when it suits. All the programming in home assistant is done via template sensors and a couple of automations. Have made another refinement to add more heat during the day and less at night. So 120% of 8h allocation in the day and only 90% to each night slot

I would come at this in a different way. First would be to have a look at the design drawings, to understand what AFD intended. Are there any nasty point loads lurking about for example. @lizzieuk1To do that I would need to see the superstructure drawings ect, to get a feel for the loads. You may have design calculations, I would want to see them. Then my approach may well be to say, @lizzieuk1, well it's a localised thing, you are just short of the mark in terms of materials, it's just few sheets if that of insulation. Can we get an equivalent insulation off the shelf from a local merchants at a standard price, cut and assemble the layers to be equivalent to AFD design.

LINK

Brilliant. Now I can sleep tonight. Haha Thanks mate

Hi All. I'd really appreciate your thoughts on wardrobes and their apparent affinity to attract condensation. In my old house I've had a few stand-alone Ikea units against external walls (Mid 1970s cavity walls). Despite the house not having any damp problems to note, I was surprised to find patches of mould behind the wardrobes when removing them. Two corner units leaning against 2 external walls were the worst). In the new house (with damp issues that are yet to be fully diagnosed & resolved) I've got corner built-in wardrobes & I found thin ~2mm sheets of styrofoam glued to the inside of the external walls - potentially suggesting that previous occupants had condensation & mould issues there. Is there a "proper" way to put in a wardrobe against an external wall, either built-in or stand-alone Ikea-type unit? Leave a void and plug PC-style fans into the sides to ensure circulation sounds a bit extreme? 🤔 Thank you.

If the pumps not on then it’s only holding back gravity It’ll be fine. When the pumps running it’s not under huge pressure either. Issues are largely when these are sat with full mains pressure 24/7, and then fail quite quickly (flood o’clock). You should be good until then or longer.

Perfect, I’ll not get it done until Monday can’t get any fittings around here until then. Is it safe to leave the flexi as it is until then? Would you say it’s unlikely to burst. It’s actually less than a year old. thanks Nick your a godsend on here

Never used them before tbh, so may give them a whirl. Seems to make sense to upgrade if these are kosher.

There's a workaround for that (had a long conversation with an ASHP installer on the subject - additional buffer tank I think). It seems a waste not to use the heat pump we are getting anyway for active cooling, but if it costs more, we'll just get an air-to-air one in addition. I suppose that it would provide some redundancy if the A2W one stopped working.

And after another long break, it is finished. I had been too busy doing things and going places to order the roofing until now. I ended up ordering it from Steadmans, part of the SIG group. Their quote was £300 cheaper than Plantex with the bonus they did the facings in long lengths where Plantex only do them in 3 metre lengths which would have meant a join. The roof panels were delivered last Wednesday and today me and a joiner friend fitted them, which took us about 5 hours in total. To lift them up there, we wheeled the mobile scaffold in the pictures out onto the grass, on 2 scaffold boards so stop it sinking into the soft ground, and used that as a staging post, lift them onto that, then both up onto the scaffold for the second lift. It was actually easier than I expected it to be. Tip for anyone doing this sort of job. While the suppliers are happy to make the roofing sheets to any length you want, they only seem to supply them in "1 metre" width. Great I thought, my car port is exactly 6 metres wide, I need 6 sheets. Actually the sheets came 105cm wide. There is a 5cm overlap. So while it is true each sheet adds 1 metre to the width of the roof, with 6 sheets there are only 5 joints, so the finished width of 6 sheets of roofing is 605cm. That is 5cm wider than my car port frame. Quick thinking, by cutting a small piece off the top and bottom corner of the first sheet to clear round the garage roof tile overhang, that end of the roof ended up coming closer to the garage wall than originally planned, leaving the other end finishing mm perfect at the end of the framing. There was also a few sheets of "spare" roof sheets used as packing and protection. I am now scheming what I can use them for. Next phase will be fitting solar panels along the back of the car port.

Thank you! That's very reassuring. I think we'll put tiles over the UFH zone under the living areas in the extension and wood over the zone in the bedrooms located in the original building. Aircon to the bedrooms could top up the heating if it's ever necessary.

Treated floor area - 156m² (73 renovation + 83 extension) Masonry floors and walls. Cavity and under-screed insulation. Extension/renovated roof: 0.14; 0.15 W/m²k. Floors: 0.11; 0.28 W/m²k. Walls: 0.14; 0.3 W/m²k Planned airtightness - 1.6 m³/hr.m² Space heating demand - 49 kWh/(m².a) Heat load - 22 W/m² Heating requirement - 3.5 kW (+ domestic hot water) Thanks