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@dpmiller Do you mean the one I labelled as "locking (?) Allen key slot" for the top one, that feature exists for top and bottom hinges but doesn't exist for middle hinge; this is one the main questions I have since I don't know if it's not there to signify that the middle hinge Allen key slot behind the cap is for adjusting something else or its just how the middle hinge was built or if something is lost or broken for the middle hinge (and if so if adjusting the middle hinge to even the load when I am adjusting the hinges to lift the French door would create more problems)

Less shadows the way it is now.

Or manage without any such faff and just have water travel down a pipe, on demand. No tenant is going to use a stopwatch to see when the shower gets hot…..

Yes, as our walls will be some 400mm thick we could support a double door withing the aperture and we considered the FD on the garage side and the passive door in the hall, but what a pain to use, exacerbated by the self close on the fire door. Integral garage a part of our brief. Drive in and enter the house out of the weather. So part of the design. But as it doesn't appear to be possible to make an operational garage airtight or thermally efficient it has to be outside the envelope. Building control also working against us. Nonsense requirement to have a 150mm step between garage and hall - no doubt mitigating risks that no-one has ever seen materialise. Working opposite to the requirement to have a level entry to the front door. By definition there must be a step or slope if the garage is 150mm lower so "level" is not a possible outcome. We're just trying to make sure we're able to manage life with mobility issues should that come to pass - but hopefully it wont!

yes but i was going to have it a closed system and fill from my source with inhibitor to look after the heat pump

I want to simplify the installation of the Radon membrane and if I can do the below, eg run the lower DPC under the inner leaf and across the cavity and then up the inner face of the outer leaf. If I can go with this approach, it completely negates me having to use pre formed door openings OR having to try and bodge it together. The only required detailing will be the 4 corners. The standard Visqueen detailing is shown below, but if you go with this approach, then you have to mess around at door openings. I just want to avoid as many taped joints as possible.

Just testing first LED strip - see photo. Just annoyed that the kitchen fitter cut the profile slot in the centre of the shelf depth without asking. Really wanted the strip not far from the front of the shelf so it actually illuminates what is on the shelf from the front. Is it remotely possible to rout a shelf panel from underneath while it is insitu ?

I would guess that if you want to rent the place out (even if only occasionally) you want to avoid anything complex like that. I suggested Shelly as they are cheap simple and can work standalone for simple things. But you could likely do enough with a traditional timer + pir.

You know you can buy a simple water pressure meter quite cheaply to measure your pressure at different points yourself, and flow rates can be measured by running into a bucket of known capacity (you can measure the bucket capacity with a measuring jug). If you want to get sophisticated with controls then smart home systems allow this - would you be connecting your shelly to a hub ? You may not want the extra complication though.

Bit more sophisticated than that. While this is for variable speed and multi cylinder ICE induction systems, the theory is the same. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/326440306_A_STUDY_ON_THE_DESIGNS_OF_THE_RESONATOR_FOR_REDUCING_RESONANCE_NOISE_OF_INTAKE_SYSTEM_IN_VEHICLE

We've recently had our EPC redone and 12.5kw of panels added a few points but surprised me how little it added. We've got a 4kw MCS system and 8.5kw self installed and the Assessor seemed to struggle with getting those entered into the system. He ended up putting the panels in by area as a percentage of roof area covered. I got the impression that assessor wasn't too familiar with anything non standard so maybe there are alternative ways that may get a better score??

You are SO right . Effectively on some things we’ve exceeded UE . But I cheated a bit . Mines a heightmap engine so I can’t do overhang / caves etc - fine for landscapes etc but not insides ( though I’m thinking about how you would do that with a ray marcher for a follow up project ) . But yes ! Everything UE does we attempt . Rain , snow , wind , lighting , explosions , lasers , ice , real big list . Put a video up on YouTube in the next few weeks . Expect Apple to offer me a billion dollars for it …. maybe …. or Mr.Beast ( I.e more money than sense ) . But I’ll take the cash from anyone ; not fussy !

Nothing yet. Over two months for me now as well. Going to call them tomorrow. According to Gemini: Yes, you can chase your progress by calling the dedicated HMRC DIY and House Building VAT Enquiries Team on 0300 322 7073.

You are not going to rest until you've reimplemented Unreal engine in your web browser are you

are the grub screws on the sides not for locking the pivot, which is eccentric and adjusts the clamping?

Thanks for that. BTW your install looks v neat.

Mike didn’t like his gun so now he’s upgraded to a plasma laser . Be kind . Don’t be like Mike and mow down the flora with your new found toy . In a world full of Mikes , don’t be a Mike .

oops. Manual. sorry to have wasted your time. I'm thinking one of these so fills buckets but not mouths

If I can't hear it above the breeze in the trees, or the birds singing, then that isn't sound let alone noise. Do we have any sketch or description? It's just a small box with air hoses in and out, and a cable, isn't it? So maybe just a lump of foam between it and an adjacent surface?

We used shortish rails (I can't remember the brand, Van Der something) that were screwed parallel to and on top of the ridges in the roof. This is to allow the landscape orientation of the panels. It did mean the placement of the clamps was varying from panel to panel but we managed to get them all (just) in the allocated clamping zones. The only issue (apart from the rail locations being fixed to ridge locations) was I had to be careful when placing the stitching screws that tie the ridge of one sheet to the next. If I had a choice I think I'd go for the type of short rail that spans between 2 ridges for a portrait orientation. Which would avoid that issue.

Is there any way, without violating the warrantee, to baffle the intake. Induction can be one of the noisiest parts of a pump.

I'm not sure I would bother if it's an issue. Just get the pump and the PIR but also add some kind of timer/automation (shelly can likely do it) to run the pump if some combination of the following happens*: 1. PIR in bathroom 2. PIR in bedroom (if ensuite - and on first trigger) 3. Certain times of day when showers are likely 4. Whenever the DHW water heating cycle is on 5. Whenever the pipe temp at the bathroom is lower than x (maybe 30-35C, ie, not full temp but high enough that when the bathroom PIR kicks on it doesn't take long to raise the temp) 6. Whatever else Basically, suck up that the energy efficiency will be a bit lower than you hoped and move on. Think now about what you would change later if the above doesn't work. Even simpler is a timer for when you are living in the property (you can plan your shower times) and just run the pump frequently when you have paying guests. * This is not a prescriptive list just ideas of ways to mitigate the situation. A shelly device (not connected to anything else) can do 1-3 with some planning 4-6 might require more.

😂It's not so much that I'm keen to have the faff, but that I've already put the 22mm copper in, so I feel a bit stuck. The thought of taking out the pipework after spending so much time (that I couldn't really afford) getting it through difficult gaps is heartbreaking. Such is the life of house renovation, I guess... I will follow your sound advice: I'll try squeezing a 15mm hep2o line through the tight wall cavities and test the flow, and I'll report back if that's okay. Thanks again.

St Awful! 🤣 That particularly situation is man made. I'm sure you know more about this than I but I had thought there were plenty of places globally with relatively elevated levels of radiation that show similar health profiles to low radiation places.

A google was not helpful in telling me what a mayal pump is. Do you mean fixed irrigation system (which is the type of use I would be thinking of). Maybe there was a difference given this sounds like a commercial property but water butts are allowed (with tap) so I expect whatever issue you ran into would be able to be dealt with. (With the idea to keep the water as clean as possible in the first place if I do get the chance to do this the water would almost certainly be much cleaner than that from a water butt). As someone who plans to do a lot of the installation work myself and who drinks a lot of water (and therefore uses the toilet a lot) the sums will indeed be very different. Still I doubt 10 year cost savings alone would be worth it. 10 year cost savings plus the ability to use the water to maintain a productive garden during a hosepipe ban may well be.