All Activity

Do not confuse wood wool and wood fibre boards - they are very different materials.

It’s on the todo list. I’ll soon be whacking on the vertical battens. Horizontal soon after that. The cladding takes a remarkably large amount of time.

Yeah, reporting back, I can see just one 50mm offering: Savolit Plus - Wood Wool Boards https://bio-space.co.uk/products/savolit-plus @ProDave - internal it's 12mm ply / 50 mm service cavity / 12mm ply / 15mm plasterboard If we use flex, we'll have to batten everything. If we use 'wood wool board' we won't as it'll hold its thickness OK. This is my list for anyone going down the same path: We could use much cheaper XPS, but it's flammable as f..k. We may well do 60mm service cavity on the next barn to avoid this problem.

@G and J Nah, excavation to 3.5m - I think piles to support excavation are often 2x the excavation depth. >>> It’s only money I guess ... planners wouldn't let us have 2 storey.

Stapling the tape on may help straighten it up a bit. Get it clad ASAP.

We’re using very short studs on our build lol Our upstairs panels were delivered without breather membrane as the flanks had to be clad first in cement board. So when we put the membrane on I just marked enough to level from.

Looks fine. I would normally expect to see vertical stapled on tape to identify where the studs are.

Never too early to start making plans, they will take a few iterations to get what is correct for you - not the architect. We ended up changing the full build method from timber frame to ICF, so all the Warrant plans needed to be redone. Lots of details that maybe standard for the architect but end up being a thermal bridge or key details just missed altogether that have you scratching your head or the builder doing what he normally does and mess thing up for you.

Keep the higher bits as close to the surface as possible, especially of it is path only. 300mm min cover is fine and you could do less at a pinch. Use the mini shallow ICs at the sides and back and for corners where you will add a 45 either end. Avoid clashes with the surface water system. Make sure the foundation is low enough where the pipes cross at the front. This can just be short sections.

It may well be 12 months away. I've just had a 'subject to planning' offer accepted on the plot so very early stages. I get your point though - hence the question.

Unless that’s at least 12+ months or more, as usually I’m on these types of projects as early as the client will entertain. 11 months before concrete was poured on one of my current projects and still discovering opportunities / ‘tweaking’ on the fly! Keep asking lots of questions, and use this time well to design M&E / interior and fabric choices etc, as when the build kicks off you’ll have far less capacity / brain-space than you think you will, .

My magic trick I do at parties is similar. But rather that a hat and produce a rabbit or dove. I put my hand down my shorts and produce to hares.

Ummm, I haven’t taped all the other acreage of breather membrane. Bit late now as most of it is safely covered. It’s all carefully lapped as per, but not taped. Should I add it to the list of tumble dryer thoughts I enjoy at night?

How much does it cost to get a chainsaw blade resharpened? Use that as a benchmark.

Try something like this: https://soundstop.co.uk/products/soundproofing-underlay-solution If you're installing a floating wood floor are similar there are also sandwiched products you can get at 12mm thickness.

Has anyone used this stuff or considered it? It's natural fibre hemp insulation batts. https://www.indinature.co I'm at a very early stage in my project so it's far too early for this conversation really, but I saw this product and I liked the idea because the factory is about 2 miles from my plot plus it's not made from nasty chemicals. Just wondering....

A very good point. Many heads always better than one Minimum 250mm, MBC is 300mm, but their 140mm mineral wool + PIR IWI option is better on paper; (imho poorer overall in real life though, as it’s quite acoustically transparent).

If the fall works now, why does it need to be increased? 05 seems to be redundant. 02 requires turdal U turns so needs improvement. Rainwater can be simplified by combining the runs.

We have an electric pole on ours. The larger proportion of a tall tree. Anybody know if we should get anything? Thinking about it, the farmer probably accepted a lump sum.

Looks OK to me. I'd be inclined to staple the wrinkles back, then tape wherever it feels the right thing. If you can make any wrinkles lap downward then they won't hold any water. It will look much better and that is probably the only issue. I've found huge differences in the quality of aluminium tape. The cheap stuff is a pain to handle and is weak. For 50% more from a proper BM it is certainly worth it. The same applies to black tape: the official brands are very sticky but in a controllable way.

No wonder the farmer didn't want us going across his land.

I should add, that I think you tend to need a thicker wall section to make blown in cellulose work. Like Mineral Wool cellulose is not as insulating on paper as PIR. It tends to be used in higher performing homes anyway where the thicker walls allow serious insulation values and easy installation (also very very good sound insulation).

All designers should spend a day putting it into wall or roof framing. I wonder if the TF companies that fit it are simply much better at doing it, I'd think they could readily have found the method that we one-timers haven't. The reality is gaps and expanding foam, then shiny tape over the gaps, and it won't be questioned. Bottom line though is the theoretical insulating property and skinnying down of the studs.

@sansserif can simply ask them to remove it from their quote, if it is costed remotely and is cheaper elsewhere or better done by a trusted 3rd party; where the preference is to remove ambiguity over the quality / robustness of the work. Other examples are UFH, design and install / manifold / pressure test, groundworks for pipes / ducts etc, and so on; things that some folk prefer to focus on specifically / more intensively, and often that steps beyond the comfort zone of a turnkey contractor or supplier. This is one of my favourite things about MBC and Pro ICF, the ability for me to ‘stick my oar in’ and finesse things on the clients behalf way in advance of the construction phase.

Yikes! Last basement job I was supporting with the design etc needed 90 of them….. but thankfully not as deep as yours. I’d still have a basement and hope you’re undeterred! It’s only money