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kWh Thermal inertia is what you need to be looking at. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_inertia

I'm hoping to have our roof built next week, using 600mm centers and was looking at blown-in cellulose or mineral wool - but budget is getting tight! I was having a look on seconds & co and so this size of boards which in theory should just slot into place. Does anyone have experience with these pre-cut strips? (I'm looking at a saving of just under 2K)

Just about to start insulating a timber frame one storey rear extension. It'll get about 180mm PIR in walls and ceiling and 75mm in floor. So that's nice and warm. But, - the existing house - from the nineties has a cavity wall with 140mm AAC on the inside (meeting building regs back then - and kind of ok) but brick on the outside. The cavity is not insulated, and during the work on the extension work it was clear there's a strong breeze going through that cavity. So come winter I assume that will be as warm as a single skin brick wall 🥶 - and do anything it can to cool down the extension. Any ideas on how to insulate that outside - but now inside - brick wall - or how to close the cavity behind it to stop the breeze ? Thank you so much

>>> Asking for opinion will yield a possible or negative reaction depending on the experience of the person answering. If you want a thin screed vote with your feet and do it Yeah, appreciate that. I'm just trying to get my head around the building physics and its dynamic behaviour. I get your very good point about the heat flow direction based solely on the difference between floor and air temperature. And the 'heat flux' i.e. quantity of heat transfer should presumably be about the same as the 'thermal resistance' between the floor and air should be similar in both cases as the interface construction will be the same. That leaves the speed at which the heat pump can replenish the 'radiator' and whether the quantity of heat in the radiator will be drained fast or not and whether that is significant. Where is @SteamyTea when you need him? Maybe I should just say KwH or something to wake the genie up?

Maybe that's why I reacted so badly to this one. I remember getting stung inside my nostril a few years ago whilst cycling and it was a sore one but not that bad. I was thinking maybe this time was worse cos I was already awash with histamine from the barley stubble I'd been walking through all day (I'm not allergic to many things, but barley is one) and the numerous nettle stings I'd picked up at the fencelines. I probably couldn't have picked a worse day to wear shorts.

My father was severely allergic to wasp stings. I have never wanted to put it to the test as I have all sorts of allergies. Apparently some people react normally to the first sting, then can get sever reactions to subsequent ones.

They took 11 weeks to process mine, I received less than a third of what I had claimed. Called them and they were quoting internal processes to me that meant nothing. Told I will need to appeal. Even said the small local business that supplied and fitted my LVT flooring should have zero rated the bill. They said I should have explained it is a new build and the bill should be zero rated. I reminded them this small business has paid the VAT to them but they say I have to get in touch with the business and make them adjust their VAT. Also they have knocked back some windows/door/roofing and external paving (amongst other things). This is my second newbuild and it was easier and quicker before. Last time I had to send all receipts with their spreadsheet. This time, spreadsheet only, 6 weeks for them to then ask for approx 12 receipts and they have knocked back £10k of the £15k of VAT I expected back. Hopeless.

'In immersion mode' which it only sometimes switches to. So my reading is that the system works fine for a while then something happens and it stops working as normal and needs resetting and then it works again. @MorganP can hopefully confirm.

OP says "it doesn't heat the hot water either" so I assumed it's CH and DHW??

My reading of the OP is that the heating is still working (as a heat pump) but there are spurious activations of the immersion during which time the system doesn't heat up.

Can you alter the hot water schedule to come on during the day when you can watch what happens when it tries to heat the hot water? There Should be little need for space heating just now so I would focus on getting the hot water up and running. Do you know what the "stats" do as you shouldnt need them if running in auto adaptive mode. If you're really under pressure to get this sorted I would contact any local Heat Geek engineers and see if they have Ecodan experience and can help out.

Generally, manufactured goods are now of better quality and last a lot longer. So 'industry' can produce more with less. Vehicle manufacturing was at all time records untill 2016, don't think the decline has anything to do with 'net zero', energy prices or lack of investment. Trying to think what happened 10 years ago, seem to remember that we were going to become world leaders.

If the bco isn't asking perhaps letc it run. An example: in our case the fire service asked for a 10m3 water tank. But bco ignored that. So don't overthink. I agreed btw as, although there is no mains, an appliance could drive adjacent ( and we have 3m3 drinking water). I don't know if the bco gave it that much thought. But bco did ask about fire doors and alarms. Best ask them.

@Adele Tractor we had to get fire officer assessment but they refused to speak to us directly and would only deal with requests from a Building Control Officer / approved inspector. Quite frustrating but we got there in the end. We’re with private (Stroma). No personal experience of our local council BC - good luck.

I think that's missing the point. If all countries deindustrialise to decarbonise then there is no industry and that's not going to work. It's not that what we did was necessarily wrong for us (debatable point) it's that what we did is not a useful guide for a large part of the remaining emissions we need to get on top of. Edit: and even if you think we are a good guide overall, the way we chose to do things has proven very expensive. So from that POV other countries are a better guide even if your goal is to end up in the same sort of situation we are in now.

I should add that she was a lot more stoic about it than I would have been.

Summer holidays have just finished, should be easier getting hold of people now, until last week of October.

Yes I know it’s “ generic “ but it’s obvious ( too me ) that these things can and will be solved via llm / AI and within our lifetimes ( subject to how long either of us live of course ! )

So if DHW and it's only getting to 20 degs good chance it is a time related issue. Also check your diverter valve is moving from heating to hot water production. So dig out all the DHW settings

Cancer is a generic term, it is not one condition, why I always take those sort of stories with a pinch of salt. I will just stick to using it to write erotic stories about you.

Just imagine cancer cured ! (expletive deleted) me that’s a big one ! . Onward then to every other main disease etc then maybe dementia etc . That’s (expletive deleted)ing A star stuff

The overhang is there to protect the kitchen units from damage from spills and reduce the accumulation of food debris - breadcrumbs, flour and the like. However 5mm is scarcely going to make a difference - choose zero if you prefer aesthetics over practicality, or 20mm or more otherwise. Actually, perhaps the 5mm is to cover for any units / drawers being out of alignment.

Yes, DPCs should be laid on a mortar bed and, if the DPC has a BBA certificate, you'll find it mentioned there*. However brickies (and, it seems, BCOs) aren't always taught that, or just take the shortcut. It's always been done on sites I've run, but omitting isn't going to cause a problem most of the time. *If not, it may get a mention in the manufacturer's info. It provides a smooth surface that protects the DPC from any sharp brick edges or projections that could damage it.

Really makes zero difference, it's the floor surface temperature that's important. Surface temperature is defined by heat loss of the property and how many W/m2 it needs to generate. A well insulated house will have a floor temp only slightly above room temperature, so solar gain effectively switches off floor output as soon a room temp is equal to floor temperature. Once room temp is above floor temp floor will actively remove room heat. Some advantage and disadvantages of thick screeds Good Agonist to heating period, use floor as a buffer for cheap heat. Will retain and give back to the house over many hours. Very gentle heat, you don't notice the heating on or off. Use very low flow temp over many hours, great to reduce running costs. Bad Takes an age to heat up if you allow to cool too much. Different approach to heating than normal. Thin screed, is more like a low temperature radiator system. Still takes a while to heat house but not as long as thick screed. Cannot store heat for later release. Asking for opinion will yield a possible or negative reaction depending on the experience of the person answering. If you want a thin screed vote with your feet and do it

All depends on depth of water, I was near £5k all in.