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If you want a "ladder" so you can climb the roof, just slide every other tile up in a vertical row. Your tiles look exactly the same as ours and sliding them up and out of the way makes a great way to move around.

Your thread title is incorrect - renewables didn't meet all the World's new electricity demand in 2025. Renewables met demand growth (which is different) while fossil generation stalls, i.e doesn't grow. The grey section is still fossil fuel generation.

Rather throws a spanner in the works for the anti net zero argument, the ones that goes along the lines of 'why should we pay more when the rest of the world does nothing, and 'the UK emissions are so small they make no difference'.

Great to see some good news for a change.

Some good news for a change - it seems that the use of fossil fuels for electricity production may finally have plateaued (dropping by -0.2% last year). This from an analysis by Ember that included 2025 data from 91 countries representing 93% of global electricity demand. Other highlights: Renewables overtook coal generation for the first time in 100 years Renewables have overtaken coal in every region except Asia Fossil fuel electricity fell in both China and India for the first time this century Fossil fuel electricity generation is predicted to decline from the early 2030's More solar generation was added in 2025 than could have been generated by the LNG exported through the Strait of Hormuz Grid battery storage grew by 46% as its cost fell so much that it can now provide electricity cheaper than building a new gas power plant Electric vehicles displaced 1.8 million barrels of oil per day in 2025 (=13% of US oil production), saving more CO2 than emitted by all the UK's power generation China accounted for 1/3 of global electricity demand for the first time In Australia, grid battery storage set the electricity price during the evening peak (18:00-20:00) 36% of the time (instead of gas & hydro), cutting wholesale prices by 44%

You would need some more certainty before making a formal fuss. But if they have left out the dpm it is a very big deal in competence, and in remedial work. There should be a warranty document which will explain the protocol. At some stage it would involve an independent expert and some testing. Otoh if it was an old house with no dpm, you would paint the surface with a sealant. Bug don't do that... that is a long way down the line. Unless I've mussed it, you having said which part of the country. Just approximately.

He loves it more than you do lol

64 million dollar question, without further investigation, sorry! You'd need to lift a section of flooring and get your hooter on to the underlay to see what's creating the niff. If it is the underlay, then you'll need a membrane on the slab, then EPS underlay, then the floor back down.

Its certainly seems worse in the uk. But when building control have NO liability to the homeowner for what they sign off (council or private) one cant be surprised that some are willing to sign off anything. OK, post october 23, they do have some liabilities, but still not to the homeowner. I dont think it fixable. As you say, the experience has gone, and for most of the actors, no pride in the job.

If you are just doing UFH you should be able to eliminate everything except the 3 port valve to go between the hot water tank / heating (assume you are doing PDHW?) You should have a super efficient system just running the HP flow and return to the UFH (fully open). Obvs if you are paranoid about cookies add a heat diverter (urban plumber had a good vid showing esbe mixer and overheat detector in series) but I wouldn't bother. Only gotcha I can see is making sure you have enough water volume for defrost cycles and ensure you have an expansion tank. (I don't know the cooling set up requirements)

Say they fitted the DPM badly and now I’ve moisture rising through in certain parts of the slab. It being a new build home, what’s normally would be the course of action for this? Thanks lads

That is one hell of a sentence @John Carroll!

Yep the cylinder is already prepped ready with the 3 port valve. No worries on that! My main queries are what to do at the ufh as I need to finalise the pipe work at the manifold. My manifold and pump set was all supplied and purchased years ago, taking for granted that blending valves and pumps were required. But I’m sure I’ve read that these were not necessarily required as design and thinking has evolved. - then I started thinking that perhaps the fixed flow pump in the HP may be able to deal with the ufh, reducing complexity and pipe work faff.

Proper had a laugh at that - thank you

Why do it correctly, as Chofu intended

A bit of basic maths might help.... A 22mm PRV will give a flow of around 50LPM at a dP of 1.0bar, ie if the PRV set point pressure (static) is 3.0bar then the outlet pressure will fall to 2.0bar at 50LPM, a 28mm PRV will give a flow of about 100LPM at a dP of 1bar, at a flow of 50LPM the dP will be 1.0*(50/100)^2, 0.25bar, to give a outlet pressure of, 3.0-0.25, 2.75bar. Now going to your flowrate of hardly 25LPM at some outlets, your existing 22mm PRV will have a dP of 1*(25/50)^2, 0.25bar, outlet pressure 3.0-0.25, 2.75bar which means that this particular part of your system requires a dP of 2.75bar to give a flowrate of 25LPM yet the valve is only "opened" 25%, a 28mm PRV will only have a dP of 1*(25/100)^2, 0.0625bar, outlet pressure 3.0-0.065, 2.9375bar, now if you as suggested by your plumber install that 28mm PRV you might think that you will get a substantial increase in flow rate, afraid not, you require a dP of 2.75bar to give a flow of 25LPM but you now have 2.9375bar available to drive more water through the system, but the system pressure will rise with increased flow and the (28mm) PRV pressure will fall until a equilibrium is reached which I reckon is ~ at 2.933bar to give a flow of 25.82LPM, a increase of 0.82LPM, say 1.0LPM, not a lot?, assuming of course that the calcs are anyway correct.

I'd keep it trapped if on a foul system

Don't think I adjusted it or anything when it went it. It's just all"worked", forever.

Yeah it’s one of the R32 with fixed flow rates, picked up cheap a few years back. I think the Chofu manual shows the cooling control but tbh I’ve not looked deeply into it, when the place is habitable it may be a point for experimentation.

See photo. The drain pipe running to our kitchen island sink unit does not come vertically up from the floor. It runs at a jaunty angle both front/rear and side/side relative to the kitchen sink cupboard that will sit above it. So how is this best dealt with so that the waste pipe/traps etc inside the cupboard can be kept neat and vertical ? (PS Any photos showing how drains are normally brought up into a kitchen cupboard ?)

Do you think it’s absorbing moisture and then sweating on the underlay? Thanks

Not quite the end as Clive ( @Onoff )suggests. But nearly. We have 2. Care needed with the mechanism that actuates the flush. Its so super- adjustable that its easy to over - or under adjust it. Our Botticelli washer-upper broke (the solid-state circuitry failed) : Geberit came and fixed it, and tried to charge us. One tart email later, silence was the loud response.

So if it is emitting moisture. What’s the fix? Vapour barrier under laminate and forget about it? I’ll check drains again. I do know there’s a toilet pipe running under the slab on that area

Decided I definitely want to get a proper ladder between the panels and at each end. Meant extending the unistrut by 880 mm. Of course now the end overhang looks a bit silly so I'm debating adding another bracket at each end

Yes, cement board can go over it if you want to render 👍. Use a combination of tile adhesive (cementitious) and screw fixings to install both of these two layers.