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Aco in the potential pond then. Most bco would want to see dpc 150mm higher than external ground id have thought

Whatever you or your fitter feel comfortable squeezing sealant into tbh. I managed just get to about 10, so that gave me a brown packer at either end of the tray, still caught the wall as I let the tray down onto adhesive. I had the tray sat on its long edge in the opening before adhesive. Tile adhesive went down, then let the tray down onto the adhesive, this allowed the tray to come away from the long edge wall a bit, then a bit of ebt along the wall and rocking the tray back and forth got the tray into final position. This was onto screed btw. I used the above approach as It was a heavy stone resin thing, which I didn’t fancy trying to handball into the room then onto the adhesive, would have killed my back!

Is it a truss or a rafter? Not to be pedantic but one is a lot easier repaired or replaced that the other. As it is probably be fine. How far from that horizontal ceiling to a purlin if that is a rafter?

Sounds fine some will do it tight the trays can accommodate the thickness of the tiles overhanging on them usually

Hi everyone The plasterboard is starting to go up and I have been thinking about the gap we need to leave to accommodate the shower tray. I am thinking that from plastered wall to plastered wall we need the width of the shower tray + 10mm at either end to allow for manoeuvring the tray into place. This gap will then be filled by the width of our tiles which will sit on the tray. Does this logic work or am I missing something? Thanks

In all honesty it looks like it has always been like it. I wouldnt be surprised if it happened when it was installed decades ago and they have just put lath and plaster over it and left it. The reason I say it is because the wood is absolutely solid, no insect damage, no softness nothing! Its in perfect condition.

No problem. I'll give you 50p but I must subtract the cost of the stamp from that.

Would have been a much worse score if that was open!? Plus the AB team look for 'major faux pas' before testing. An open chimney would have not passed grade, I am sure.

Lowest point gets a drian / gulley, and then ACO's drain down into those. Run the ACO's as far / long as you need to.

That's prob been there longer than I've been alive, and will likely outlive me. Take a measurement across the depth, and check in one years time.

I understand that for the garage and doors with level threshold, you install some sort of ACO, but what about the areas of the house which are not entrances, but you want at the same level? Could you for instance run some sort of ACO drainage around the whole house so that you have the exact same level? I am trying to avoid having a 150mm step down from level threshold areas. For example, I have a path that runs down the back of the house. It has steps one end, but at the other end is our patio. If I keep this section 150mm below dpc, I will then have a 150mm step up to the patio and will create a potential pond.

Go get 'em, tiger!!!!!!!

? You mean a tanking membrane? Why bother, and just buy liquid tanking kit(s) and keep brushing it on in opposite directions until you are happy. Bombproof, and the joints get done with the strips or a roll that come with the kits: LINK

Can I just have some money for the heck of it?

Where was their rationale for the 2x potable (white) vessels needing changing?? Bloody nonsense. At (only) 5 years old they should be fine! Unusual to see two on the hot water, but I always add extra volume on all of my installs, simply as a good measure; you can't have too much expansion afaic. Does the UVC ever heat off the immersion, routinely, as that can seriously over-exert the expansion vessel(s), off solar PV divert etc maybe? If off the ASHP only then these should be living a very easy life, and last e fecking long time. Defo kick these lot to the kerb, and get a new plumber who actually gives a shit.

You wouldn’t see them then though…… 👀

That’s what it looks like from the picture.

We have been doing some investigations internally following a small leak after storm Bram and to our shock found a truss has split at the bottom where it goes into the stone wall of our house. We will have to contact a structural surveyer but what are my options? Is this going to cost the earth. The rest of the truss which goes up into the loft is solid and in perfect condition. I am worried there maybe others like this now but this does look like its been like it for years.

HURRAY!!!!! Interesting, I would love to stick frame a house. Mainly because I just love hammering bits of timber together. There were large aspects of our masonry house I hated with the dust and the hardship that TF avoids. What other method would you like?! Good people are always worth paying. Bad people are worth paying to keep them away. Depends on how fast you are blockwork. One mason built out house with no labourer. Icf Always stuck me as the wrong way around.nsoft on the outside and hard on the inside. Like a Dime bar when what you really need is an Armadillo. TF or masonry I think are the best.

Chimney?

Heras fencing with a dense camo net over it?

I would say stick with experts here (me not being one of them). This is not rocket science and I reckon you can fix/fault find this yourself - with the help of the smart people on this forum - and then you can either cure your problem yourself, or tell a ‘professional’ exactly what the problem is and what you want fixing.

Sorry to be über boring, but how bad is the existing building?

Thanks Mike for a very helpful reply. Yes, this is part of an extensive refurb, including a roof upgrade later this year, and floor levelling and insulating currently underway. I am confident about the air tightness of the walls so currently not seeing a need to remove the plaster, but perhaps a condensation risk assessment may be a good idea, as Redbeard suggests. Breathable paint, no probs! Thanks again👍

Expansion vessels do lose pressure over time so it's likely it's been re-pressurised at some point, although probably not in this case. And yeah, nobody carries dry nitrogen, or specifies that in MIs for domestic heating systems.