Largest diameter masonry drill.

[epsilonGreedy]

Would I be correct in thinking 15mm is the cross over point between drill bits and core drilling?

 

I ask because the largest masonry drill I can find at Screwfix is 14mm as part of a set from Makita and today's job is to thread some armoured swa cable through the footing blockwork of my garage for a temporary (6 month) supply. The 2.5 mm2 cable has a 14.5mm diameter according to the manufacturer.

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-sds-plus-shank-drill-bit-chisel-set-17-pcs/5145r#product_additional_details_container

 

The blocks are heavy concrete or alternatively there are lighter 300m wide trench blocks one course lower.

Edited May 21, 2019 by epsilonGreedy

[scottishjohn]

what type of shank are you looking for on this drill?
https://www.ukdrills.com/masonry/extreme-masonry-concrete-drill-bit

try here all types of drills 

Edited May 21, 2019 by scottishjohn

[daiking]

?

 

https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/drill-bits/cat12140001?drillbittype=masonry&productdiameter=25_mm#category=cat12140001&drillbittype=masonry&productdiameter=18_mm|20_mm|22_mm|25_mm

 

Even I have a few of these.

 

In my poor quality Titan SDS, the drill tip is like the Aussie Eurovision entry.

[epsilonGreedy]

16 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

what type of shank are you looking for on this drill?
https://www.ukdrills.com/masonry/extreme-masonry-concrete-drill-bit

try here all types of drills 

 

SDS. It is a new Bosch SDS Plus drill I have not got around to using yet.

[scottishjohn]

bottom line has always been 

and always will be  

cheap drills don,t last  

--but if you only using big sizes once --then cheap is maybe ok 

 you want drills to last --then slow down the speed

,lubricate the cut  if possible and don,t let them get hot,cos that will blunt them quicker than anything

"speeds and feeds" as my dad kept telling me 

he started work in  whitworths  in manchester ,then onto Gorton tank --they made steam locos  and when you are using a clamp on  hand powered drilling railway  chassis to fasten bits on --you don,t want to be blunting drills to often 

you soon learn all about drill sharpening ,seems to be a dying art now 

and then   machine tool company   in the 30,s -- 

 

[epsilonGreedy]

13 minutes ago, daiking said:

?

 

https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/drill-bits/cat12140001?drillbittype=masonry&productdiameter=25_mm#category=cat12140001&drillbittype=masonry&productdiameter=18_mm|20_mm|22_mm|25_mm

 

 

Ah ha, I had got lost in the drill-bit sets portion of the Screwfix catelogue, I gave up searching because I recalled seeing 20 something mm core drills. I bet that 25mm drill bit jobbie has some kick.

 

 

[epsilonGreedy]

9 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

 you want drills to last --then slow down the speed

,lubricate the cut  if possible and don,t let them get hot,cos that will blunt them quicker than anything

"speeds and feeds" as my dad kept telling me 

- 

 

Lubricate with the occasional squirt of water?

[Ferdinand]

I have up to about 25mm - maybe 26mm, and up to 1m long.

 

Usually come in cheap kits from Aldi etc once in a blue moon, and a typical use would be to thread pipes or cables through a thick wall or ceiling, also not needing to be very often.

 

I have one which is a long 16mm one which generates a small standing wave in the drill bit as it wobbles.

 

Ferdinand.

 

Edited May 21, 2019 by Ferdinand

[ToughButterCup]

1 hour ago, epsilonGreedy said:

[...]

I bet that 25mm drill bit jobbie has some kick.

 

Thats the point of the EPC setting on the SDS drill

(70% power and auto - stop , sometimes called an overload clutch)

[PeterW]

Makita do Nemesis bits that will also go through rebar and they’ve got sizes up to 32x450mm. 

 

I’ve got a 25mm x 300mm one and its a beast but goes through engineering bricks like butter. It was £30 from memory though ..!!

[joe90]

Beware of buying cheap bits, three sizes in a packet at shows, some are soft and the hammer action can rivet them over in the “chuck” (SDS socket) and can be impossible to get them back out. Ask me how I know ?

[epsilonGreedy]

5 hours ago, joe90 said:

Beware of buying cheap bits, three sizes in a packet at shows, some are soft and the hammer action can rivet them over in the “chuck” (SDS socket) and can be impossible to get them back out. Ask me how I know ?

 

 

I went ahead and bought a 20mm masonry bit from Screwfix for £13.49, it is an Erbauer which is a brand I now have more respect for having used my Erbauer sliding mitre saw for a couple of months.

 

Anyhow back on subject, I loaded the new bit into the SDS Bosch chuck this evening which was my first encountered an SDS chuck. Am I correct in thinking an SDS chuck is not a finely engineered creation suitable for a NASA mission to repair a wonky satellite? There must be a few mm of wobble at the cutting end of the drill bit and the drill vibrates due to the bit wobble even with hammer mode switched off.

Edited May 21, 2019 by epsilonGreedy

[PeterW]

Did you pull the sleeve back before you locked the bit into the chuck ..?? 

 

SDS should move in and out but not wobble ...!

[Cpd]

I have a 55mm masonry bit and it’s 600mmm long !  One of my jackhammers has a drilling function..... it’s a beast and one of the more dangerous pieces of kit I own....... used it before I purchased a core drill for drilling holes in bedrock to secure metal fence posts. 

[joe90]

41 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Did you pull the sleeve back before you locked the bit into the chuck ..

 

With my de Walt sds drill you don’t pull the sleeve back (previous un named ones I did) you only have to pull the sleeve back to take it out.

[scottishjohn]

9 hours ago, epsilonGreedy said:

 

Lubricate with the occasional squirt of water?

you can use loads of water cos a little will make mud which could clog it 

 or just cut slower and keep pulling it out to clear the crap 

big drill s have a water feed 

and big drills on a lathe have a hole up the centre for cutting fluid  which takes away the swarf as well

[PeterW]

17 minutes ago, joe90 said:

 

With my de Walt sds drill you don’t pull the sleeve back (previous un named ones I did) you only have to pull the sleeve back to take it out.

 

I tend to release the sleeve slightly with both the Bosch and the Makita to make sure the bit is properly home. Quick check though is point it down and pull the trigger ... soon falls out, especially if you’re up a ladder ... ask me how I know ..!

[Alexphd1]

@Cpd 55mm on sds plus, or sds max (common size on max)?  Think our biggest is 28mm on plus then 48mm on max. 

John, I have never seen a wet rig set up for a sds hammer function but plenty on core drill although we only have a dry core set up but that is useless for aberdeen granite.

[Temp]

I think a 25mm bit should go through most building blocks without to much difficulty, nothing like as hard as poured concrete.

[scottishjohn]

1 hour ago, Alexphd1 said:

@Cpd 55mm on sds plus, or sds max (common size on max)?  Think our biggest is 28mm on plus then 48mm on max. 

John, I have never seen a wet rig set up for a sds hammer function but plenty on core drill although we only have a dry core set up but that is useless for aberdeen granite.

we have "creetown granite"  here --used to make london bridge ,liverpool docks and cobble stones --thats the same 

the stone masons can drill it ,but i doubt a hand held one will work very well .

they definitely use core drills for granite , i got a few of the cores they cut out of head stones where they put the flower pot.

bbut most of the headstones come ready cut from china now --much cheaper

you know the local company "galloway granite " quoted for the scottish parliament building ,as did one from aberdeen --but the order went to china !!! 

how could they do that for scotlands own parliament building !!!

 

they use a wire saw to slice it up  with a mixture of carborundum +water. its like a huge band saw

the wire saw has a main wire with  another one spiralled wrapped round it and the cutting paste sits in the gap and does most of the cutting  or should i say rubbing its way through 

which just proves the old saying 

"given long enough you can piss a hole in a stone"

 a bit like self build?

maybe something more modern  now --but thats what local granite works uses

a big block could take a day to cut one side

 still use the old split wedges to get large blocks out of quarry 

jack hammer a row of holes along all sides, then drive in a split hollow tubes --then hammer in taper pins and just keeping going round them evenly till it splits.

the art in it is knowing the sound when you hit them to keep it even so it splits where you want it too,so i,m told 

[Cpd]

Show and tell. 

10 hours ago, Alexphd1 said:

55mm on sds plus, or sds max (common size on max)?  Think our biggest is 28mm on plus then 48mm on max. 

John, I have never seen a wet rig set up for a sds hammer function but plenty on core drill although we only have a dry core set up but that is useless for aberdeen granite.

As mentioned this one goes into a jack hammer which has a drill function so NOT sds but large hex, not suitable for anything but drilling into bedrock or other solid stone and it’s a beast and would more than likely take down your wall before drilling a nice hole..... 

[Alexphd1]

That's a beast!