Steel stud

[Pocster]

Ok , I’ve watched all the videos - seems easy but they usually show partitions .

I’m using a system that doesn’t fix to the wall so you have a top and bottom U track . You can slide the vertical steel stud in and screw the top and bottom . But you can only do that from one side ( other side is against the wall ) . Does this matter ? . Be happier a screw each side .

This doesn’t seem mentioned in any videos so i’m Guessing it’s not an issue ....

[Russell griffiths]

I believe @nod is the man to answer this. 

[nod]

3 hours ago, pocster said:

Ok , I’ve watched all the videos - seems easy but they usually show partitions .

I’m using a system that doesn’t fix to the wall so you have a top and bottom U track . You can slide the vertical steel stud in and screw the top and bottom . But you can only do that from one side ( other side is against the wall ) . Does this matter ? . Be happier a screw each side .

This doesn’t seem mentioned in any videos so i’m Guessing it’s not an issue ....

One side is fine 

we only fasten the end struts and the opens 

Use a 14 mil pan head 

Of you are against a solid wall 

50 mil studs You need to brace onto the solid every 600 horizontal 

800 cortical 

[Pocster]

23 minutes ago, nod said:

One side is fine 

we only fasten the end struts and the opens 

Use a 14 mil pan head 

Of you are against a solid wall 

50 mil studs You need to brace onto the solid every 600 horizontal 

800 cortical 

How do I fit to the wall a vertical every 600 ?

[nod]

You can make brackets out of track 

cut a piece of track 300 long 

measure the distance from the front of the vertical stud to The wall Then cut the track on either edge to the base of the track and bend the track in on itself Forming a righ angle You can either use a crimping tool or screw a couple of pan heads into the side to stop it opening out 

Make sure your stud is set at 400 or 600 

Then shot fire or screw it to the wall fitting snug against the flat side of the stud Then fix it to the stud with two pan heads Alway two fixings 

Worth purchasing a couple of Irwin welding clams (Small)

Clamp the bracket when fixing 

 

Doorway heads are made out of track also 

900 opening 

cut a length of track at 1500 Cut  through at either end at 300 

and instead of folding it in on itself 

Fold them both up at right angles and press them in the 900 door opening 

and simply slide the head up and down to the correct door he’d height 

Then a couple of pan heads in either side 

Great system once you get going 

 

I studs will stand independent No bracing neede

 

When you are boarding C studs Alway have the open edge facing away from the board your fixing 

Stop it twisting 

When you are boarding both sides of a wall start with a full board on one side The start with a 600 rip on the other side 

[Pocster]

10 hours ago, nod said:

You can make brackets out of track 

cut a piece of track 300 long 

measure the distance from the front of the vertical stud to The wall Then cut the track on either edge to the base of the track and bend the track in on itself Forming a righ angle You can either use a crimping tool or screw a couple of pan heads into the side to stop it opening out 

Make sure your stud is set at 400 or 600 

Then shot fire or screw it to the wall fitting snug against the flat side of the stud Then fix it to the stud with two pan heads Alway two fixings 

Worth purchasing a couple of Irwin welding clams (Small)

Clamp the bracket when fixing 

 

Doorway heads are made out of track also 

900 opening 

cut a length of track at 1500 Cut  through at either end at 300 

and instead of folding it in on itself 

Fold them both up at right angles and press them in the 900 door opening 

and simply slide the head up and down to the correct door he’d height 

Then a couple of pan heads in either side 

Great system once you get going 

 

I studs will stand independent No bracing neede

 

When you are boarding C studs Alway have the open edge facing away from the board your fixing 

Stop it twisting 

When you are boarding both sides of a wall start with a full board on one side The start with a 600 rip on the other side 

I’ll experiment with what you’ve suggest !

Got to run now ! Literally , Bristol 10k ?

[Mr Punter]

If this is for your basement and you have waterproof membrane you need to use 50mm I stud and it can be independent of the wall. If you wedge a bit of insulation behind them it stops any rattle.

[nod]

40 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

If this is for your basement and you have waterproof membrane you need to use 50mm I stud and it can be independent of the wall. If you wedge a bit of insulation behind them it stops any rattle.

Best using 50 I stud in front of a membrane 

It will stand independent and is more solid than timber that is twice as thick 

[Pocster]

Easier to buy some of these ?

 

https://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/gl2-gyplyner-metal-stud-fixing-bracket-75mm-leg-1-box-100-pieces?ps=Mjk4PTEwOTk=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8IXv1PaE4gIVrbvtCh1bmw0bEAQYASABEgL9KfD_BwE#298=1099

 

I can fix through my membrane- you have special plastic raw plugs with rubber caps to make a water proof hole . Any screw goes inside the plug .

[Big Neil]

are you guys talking about stuff like this??(link below)

 

It makes the process sound so simple....

 

 

[Pocster]

9 hours ago, Big Neil said:

are you guys talking about stuff like this??(link below)

 

It makes the process sound so simple....

 

 

Yep

But he’s doing a partition .

[Big Neil]

So is it supposed to be quicker than using wood? This guy says noggins aren't needed. I had never really considered steel before.

I assume it's more expensive?

[Jeremy Harris]

A friend used this when refurbishing his house in France, where it seems that pretty much all internal studwork is done in steel.  I was pretty impressed, as it's quick and very accurate.  The walls were also pretty soundproof compared to timber stud walls, something that surprised me, as I expected them to transmit more sound. 

 

One thing I did notice was that it seems to be the custom in France to run all electrical wiring in flexible conduit.  With the steel stud system this seemed to me to be a very good idea, as it kept the cables in place and also provided abrasion resistance where the cabling ran though sharp edged holes in the steel studs.

[Pocster]

2 hours ago, JSHarris said:

A friend used this when refurbishing his house in France, where it seems that pretty much all internal studwork is done in steel.  I was pretty impressed, as it's quick and very accurate.  The walls were also pretty soundproof compared to timber stud walls, something that surprised me, as I expected them to transmit more sound. 

 

One thing I did notice was that it seems to be the custom in France to run all electrical wiring in flexible conduit.  With the steel stud system this seemed to me to be a very good idea, as it kept the cables in place and also provided abrasion resistance where the cabling ran though sharp edged holes in the steel studs.

Yeah I was worried about cables ‘moving’ / wearing against the steel 

[Nick]

3 hours ago, JSHarris said:

A friend used this when refurbishing his house in France, where it seems that pretty much all internal studwork is done in steel.  I was pretty impressed, as it's quick and very accurate.  The walls were also pretty soundproof compared to timber stud walls, something that surprised me, as I expected them to transmit more sound. 

 

One thing I did notice was that it seems to be the custom in France to run all electrical wiring in flexible conduit.  With the steel stud system this seemed to me to be a very good idea, as it kept the cables in place and also provided abrasion resistance where the cabling ran though sharp edged holes in the steel studs.

 

15 minutes ago, pocster said:

Yeah I was worried about cables ‘moving’ / wearing against the steel 

 

These steel partitions are standard on every big new-build / development I've been to here in the UK (assume because they are faster to fit with less mess) and I've never seen flexible conduit once .

 

Some brands actually have pre-punched and chamfered holes for cables so it's not even common to see cable grommets. If you're drilling your own holes though, I'd definitely use cable grommets at a minimum. 18th Edition, plus your own peace-of-mind.

[Pocster]

7 minutes ago, Nick said:

 

 

These steel partitions are standard on every big new-build / development I've been to here in the UK (assume because they are faster to fit with less mess) and I've never seen flexible conduit once .

 

Some brands actually have pre-punched and chamfered holes for cables so it's not even common to see cable grommets. If you're drilling your own holes though, I'd definitely use cable grommets at a minimum. 18th Edition, plus your own peace-of-mind.

Yeah the steel I have does have pre cut holes presumably for cables . The edges do seem relatively sharp . Would prefer a rubber edge in there 

[Pocster]

Feel happier with these

 

https://www.readyfixuk.co.uk/products/cable-and-pipe-support-systems/cable-and-pipe-fixings/caddy-and-furze-fixings/general-caddy-and-furze-fixings/esg1-easy-snap-grommet-188470

[Jeremy Harris]

8 minutes ago, pocster said:

Feel happier with these

 

https://www.readyfixuk.co.uk/products/cable-and-pipe-support-systems/cable-and-pipe-fixings/caddy-and-furze-fixings/general-caddy-and-furze-fixings/esg1-easy-snap-grommet-188470

 

They look like a good solution.  The problem with using rubber grommets in something like this is that they will end up getting displaced as cables are pulled through them.  It doesn't take much to dislodge a rubber grommet, and they can be a PITA to get back into place when they come loose with a couple of cables threaded through.

 

[scottishjohn]

6 hours ago, JSHarris said:

A friend used this when refurbishing his house in France, where it seems that pretty much all internal studwork is done in steel.  I was pretty impressed, as it's quick and very accurate.  The walls were also pretty soundproof compared to timber stud walls, something that surprised me, as I expected them to transmit more sound. 

 

One thing I did notice was that it seems to be the custom in France to run all electrical wiring in flexible conduit.  With the steel stud system this seemed to me to be a very good idea, as it kept the cables in place and also provided abrasion resistance where the cabling ran though sharp edged holes in the steel studs.

used 6" gyproc jumbo studding when i split my building into bits.

as it was industrial i started on concrete floor with a  6x2 sole  plate and then screwed bottom run to it.

same at top slopping from 3m to 5 metres high !!--that is max approved height for jumbo  -fastened 6x2 to the purlings of the building -then attached top rail  to it 

dead easy-then to fit in the verticals .

as it was  afirewall it had to have 2 layers of 19mm  plank  gyproc on EACH side+ 1 layer of normal fireline with a fire curtain hanging in  middle  thats a lot of weight and long screws+ all overlapped  !!

 its very soundproof with all that plasterboard 

feels very flimsy till you screw some plasterboard to it 

i was worried the framing  would be too weak  cos when truck came with the pallet of 19mm planks its hiab could not lift it ,was loaded with a stacker truck 

had to manually lift half of it off,before hiab would lift it.

definitely not a one man job

I bought the fancy gypoc pliers which pierce , bend and lock  the  bits together .

 only downside was you do not have a very wide flange to fix in  to ,so spacing's of verticals  must be perfect  .

 but yes a good system and not as flimsy as it looks once erected and a layer of drywall on it

would i use it again --YES -even considering it for any internal walls in new house

you know it will all be straight --which if you buying CLS form local Bm  therer will be bits that are not either straight or are twisted.

I agree with  @JSHarriselectrics need to be in flex conduit -the edges will slice you very quickly if no gloves when erecting it or you will have a perfect wire stripper. 

 

Edited May 6, 2019 by scottishjohn

[scottishjohn]

the sinat system looks better than the gyproc i used ,wider flanges and easier to drill directly through ,could be the gyproc has changed over the years as well ? 

 also like the use of pan head screws to fix the bits together - the fancy pliers were expensive and not that easy to use with the BIG gyproc

was over 10years ago when i did mine.

wish i had a magnetic level then as well.LOL

would still be tempted to use a wooden sole plate  ,thats just me -like something to nail skirting too  as well .but probably most just stick the skirting's on now anyway

 

[PeterW]

59 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

would still be tempted to use a wooden sole plate  ,thats just me -like something to nail skirting too  as well

 

Pretty easy to drop timber into the U channel - tends to get done on uprights where doors go but not much else. 

[scottishjohn]

2 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

Pretty easy to drop timber into the U channel - tends to get done on uprights where doors go but not much else. 

under it allows continuous piece, also at door openings you can fix your door casings to it as well as dropping wood into verticals at door frame points to give more strength 

just my preference

[Pocster]

I’m doing 300 centres because i’m Scared ?

[Big Neil]

On 06/05/2019 at 15:14, JSHarris said:

The problem with using rubber grommets in something like this is that they will end up getting displaced as cables are pulled through them.  It doesn't take much to dislodge a rubber grommet

I wonder if there is maybe a rubberized plastic option which clips into place from either side of a hole??

 

@pocster. is there a particular Make you're looking at or a supplier you're using?

[Pocster]

2 hours ago, Big Neil said:

I wonder if there is maybe a rubberized plastic option which clips into place from either side of a hole??

 

@pocster. is there a particular Make you're looking at or a supplier you're using?

Not really . I ordered some of those plastic grommets - see how I get on with them