Doorway in solid wall to brick up

[Calvinmiddle]

I have to brick up the old back door of the house we live in now as the driveway to the new one runs right outside.

 

But house is 1930s solid walled effort, so wondering what brick I should use to brick up the doorway, asthetics aren't important as the house is rendered outside and we will be re-plastering the inside.  

 

Should we use concrete blocks on their side, or are aircrete blocks cheaper?

[Barney12]

I'm no expert but what we did when we blocked up an old door on the house we are now demolishing was simply remove the old door lining and fill with lightweights on their flats. That part of the house was solid wall so it seems to make sense and as the lintel was remaining in place there were no structural issues to worry about. 

 

The only other thing we did was lay a peice of DPC lapped up the sides on the bottom before the first course. But mainly as we had a roll laying arround

Edited August 26, 2016 by Barney12

[ProDave]

I did the same in our previous 1930's semi that was 9" solid brick walls with no cavity.

 

When I bricked up the doorway I used 3" blocks giving me a small cavity that I filled with insulation. It probably didn't meet with building regs but I thought it was better than a solid wall and nobody ever asked....
 

[Declan52]

Put expanding metal up the joints before you plaster it or it will crack or tooth a few blocks out but that's a bit harder on the elbows.

[Brickie]

If you use lightweights I'd go one step further than Declan suggested & Eml across the lot,to help prevent cracking in the render. Wall starters on both door reveals,too. 

[Oz07]

I wouldn't use lightweights if I were you. Use conc with a similar desinty to existing brickwork. Lightweight is asking for cracking

 

still take the above precautions also

[Onoff]

I blocked up a door in a 300mm ish thick,  solid brick wall using 9" blocks in the bathroom when I moved the doorway. One side I left slightly recessed and just stuck a piece of plasterboard in level with the walls either side. A much deeper recess in the bathroom but that'll all be hidden by the stud wall. It's also bang where the wall mount wc is going so the extra depth is good. I used these st/st wall starters:

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-wall-starter-kit-stainless-steel/56037?kpid=56037&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&gclid=CPj2-9iY4s4CFdS4GwodI9kP1A

[PeterW]

Wall starter seems a bit overkill for an infil - it doesn't have to take any movement from settling of foundations. 

 

These are usually pretty cheap and easy to fix too

 

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Staifix-Starter-Tie-135mm-Bag-10/p/252299

 

[tonyshouse]

Two courses of medium density blocks, then one course of bricks toothed in and repeat

 

foundations should be ok remove any wooden lintel at the top, wet plaster, 

[Onoff]

Tbh one doorway I unblocked, removing 9" blocks, just had cut nails banged in every coarse. 

[Brickie]

Depends how much value you put on your own time. To drill & fix wall starters or individual ties versus too thing out & packing mortar in-I know which I'd go for!

[tonyshouse]

+1