vk108

final floor plans again

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Hi,

 

Thank you build hub, for your inputs. I have made changes again based on inputs received...looks like these are the final plans. Please provide your valuable feedback

 

Things that might need help

 

1. Overheating due to near passive house

2. Planning to have MVHR unit in Utility,  is it a good location to have MVHR

3. Underfloor heating in Ground floor, Towel rails in first floor

4. We have Mains Gas, so not much interested in ASHP, GSHP, Solar PV(any ideas welcome)

5. We get good shading from tall trees across South boundary even during spring and autumn

6. We have 200 mm overhang, is it sufficient for summer shading

7. Currently looking into JHarris spreadsheet to calculate space heating and hot water heating

8. Posi joists 400mm, screwed and glued to reduce noise

9. like the look of house, so bit reluctant to reduce glazing as it affecting the aesthetics, any ideas welcome

10. Kids want big area for playing, so mostly lawn even though I like more planting, looking for more landscaping once moved in

11. Please let me know for any floor plan layout, plumbing and electric issues, so we can avoid

 

Apologies for asking lots of questions

 

 

 

 

Edited by vk108
spell mistake

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56 minutes ago, vk108 said:

1. Overheating due to near passive house

Yes the house will overheat

2. Planning to have MVHR unit in Utility,  is it a good location to have MVHR

The unit needs to go where it is easily accessible for changing filters and servicing. It also need to be near to a drain for condensate. It will make a bit of noise. There is lots of ducting running to and from, to every room in the house. It needs 2 external vents.

3. Underfloor heating in Ground floor, Towel rails in first floor

4. We have Mains Gas, so not much interested in ASHP, GSHP, Solar PV(any ideas welcome)

5. We get good shading from tall trees across South boundary even during spring and autumn

Looking at the site plan these will not shade the windows, just the garden.

6. We have 200 mm overhang, is it sufficient for summer shading

200mm will not work. 2000mm would be better. It is not just summer to consider, but year round.

 7. Currently looking into JHarris spreadsheet to calculate space heating and hot water heating

 8. Posi joists 400mm, screwed and glued to reduce noise

Also make sure the floor design allows a maximum deflection of the lesser of 8mm or span x0.002

 9. like the look of house, so bit reluctant to reduce glazing as it affecting the aesthetics, any ideas welcome

Me too. Brise soleil? External blinds?

 10. Kids want big area for playing, so mostly lawn even though I like more planting, looking for more landscaping once moved in

11. Please let me know for any floor plan layout, plumbing and electric issues, so we can avoid

 

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I think the family bathroom is too small.  I would enlarge it by incorporating all or part of the 2 cupboards off the landing.  I would be wanting a bath and a shower in there.

 

Kitchen may need a bit of a re think. Hob in the "pantry"?

 

Re things like the mvhr.  If you want to keep with flat roofs, I would raise the height of the garage a little and hang the mvhr unit from the ceiling of the garage close to the house wall where it will be easy to access for servicing and any noise is kept out of the house.

 

Likewise I would probably put the gas boiler in the garage.  Again easy access for servicing but keeps clutter and noise out of the house.

 

Furthering this theme, you will need a manifold for the under floor heating system downstairs.  No immediately obvious place to put it.  Under the stairs perhaps if that is going to be closed in as a cupboard but not if you want to keep that open.  In that case I would seriously consider taking all the UFH pipes through to the garage and have the UFH manifold in there as well.

 

Solar PV is only worthwhile if you can get it installed cheap enough now there is no more FIT.  It only becomes viable if you can self use most of what you generate.  Are you planning a combi boiler or a system boiler and a hot water tank?  If having a HW tank the best place for that would be one of the landing cupboards as that puts it pretty close to most points of use.

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Thanks @Mr Punter regards to "Also make sure the floor design allows a maximum deflection of the lesser of 8mm or span x0.002",  I cant understand this , is it something related to posi joists

2000mm overhang is too much ... I would be better of either Brise soleil or External blinds

 

Thanks @ProDaveYes hot water tank goes into landing cupboards as its central to most points.

Planning to install Gas boiler and MVHR in Utility room,  hopefully I can make utility as sound proof. I don't think I can install it in Garage as its not frost free.

 

 just thinking of radiators in ground floor and towel rails in first floor instead of UFH

 

Are these attached mvhr duct routes good enough, planning to use either semi rigid or steel via posi joists, please let me know if I missed anything

 

 

Edited by vk108

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Re mvhr routes.

 

Fresh air into rooms should be a lot further from the door into the room, to encourage air movement rather than leave stagnant air not going anywhere.

 

I would not put an air vent on the landing.

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Lovely looking house. Ours is about the same level of modernity but I really like the general aesthetic you've achieved outside.

 

On 25/03/2019 at 10:53, vk108 said:

6. We have 200 mm overhang, is it sufficient for summer shading

 

We have 400mm overhang on some south facing windows, and this is ideal. However, these windows are only about 500mm high (they're wide and not very tall - needed to be high up on the wall due to overlooking).

 

On 25/03/2019 at 10:53, vk108 said:

9. like the look of house, so bit reluctant to reduce glazing as it affecting the aesthetics, any ideas welcome

 

What about making some of the vertical cladding (or whatever it is) into a sliding brise soleil? You can lock them in the positions illustrated above during the cooler months, and then slide them into place during the day when you want to reduce solar gain. Not sure how complicated it would be, but it would give you the general aesthetic you're after most of the year while provide excellent solar gain control when needed.

 

 

 

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External window blinds are excellent at reducing solar gain, I regret not using them more but have them on all the east facing windows and veluxs on roof.

 

Without the FIT, Solar PV is very dependent on the cost of panels - MCS installation no longer being required. If you have a flat roof then you have the option of getting a good orientation to maximise generation. Generated electricity can be used to run services during the day (washing machine, dishwasher etc) and to top up your DHW via a diverter to immersions.

 

All you need to do to future proof yourself for this option is to run a decently rated cable from roof to your distribution board and you can take advantage of it when budget suits.

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just a quick one " do we need to design for Brise soleil or External blinds now. Or can we leave it till after completion.

 

yes, thinking of cable from roof to distribution board and so I can fit when budget permits

 

got some quotes from TF companies, they are bit shocking. They were suggesting me to reduce house size to fit with in their budget but I am definitely don't want to reduce size based on their wishes

 

Is there any way to build with in budget. currently thinking of ICF, timber frame or SIPS. I can do fair bit of work myself and being project manager

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7 minutes ago, vk108 said:

got some quotes from TF companies, they are bit shocking. They were suggesting me to reduce house size to fit with in their budget but I am definitely don't want to reduce size based on their wishes

 

Is there any way to build with in budget. currently thinking of ICF, timber frame or SIPS. I can do fair bit of work myself and being project manager

 

To be fair you are looking to build a big house, from looking at the plans that is a floor area of 280 m2, using the rule of thumb of £1,500 - £2,000 that is £420k - £560k, plus the cost of the double garage.

 

Not sure what the quotes are coming in at, but if they are in the half a mil range i wouldn't be surprised.

 

However its a great looking house and reminds me of one recently built of similar size near me, i don't know the full economics of it but if sold a few years ago for £700K, so i would have thought that the build costs would have been less than half a mil to get some profit after land cost

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We are doing ICF simply because our budget is so tight.  We are doing the actual build ourselves to cut labour costs but can live on site in our current house - it means that it doesn’t matter how long it takes us.  We will be talking to warranty companies and site insurance on Friday at the NEC to see how long that cover can go for when you know at the start, it will be a long build.

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1 hour ago, Sue B said:

We are doing ICF simply because our budget is so tight.

 

If you are willing to share your budget, people here will be able to better advise what is achievable and where savings might be made.

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We are still very early stages but we only have £1k PSM to spend - the house is 203 sq m

 

We are nearly retired and our problem is the lack of years left to pay a mortgage.  There is a possibility that we may not be able to actually build and will have to sell on with the plans in place but we are a long way from deciding that.

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20 minutes ago, Sue B said:

We are still very early stages but we only have £1k PSM to spend - the house is 203 sq m

 

Being completely honest, I think that's a worryingly optimistic budget for a house like this unless you're doing an awful lot of the work yourself.

 

A sharp, modern building like this needs very crisp detailing and finishing or it risks not looking right, imo. Even if you choose to sell - or at some point need to sell it - cheap finishes on a house like this will put a lot of people off.

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Gosh @Sue B that budget is a major challenge. Lots of work on the design side can really help keep costs down though. Try not to get wedded to a particular build system at this stage. As you know, the shape and form of the house can have a big impact on build costs.

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yes @Mr Punter, my build is simple shapes House is Square and garage is also Square. I know lots of glazing on ground floor east and south, I can reduce glazing some how. I don't think any further changes can significantly reduce timber frame costs down. there is economies of scale. I am planning to buy shell house with wind and water tight stage, remaining most of the stuff doing it by myself. what sort of price per Square Meter we can expect wind and water tight stages please, any rough idea. If I reduce house by 1 meter down, does it really affect timber frame costs, I really don't understand their logic

 

Yes it will cost £2000- £4000 only either I go down via contractor or Huf haus, but its definitely not my range

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4 hours ago, vk108 said:

just a quick one " do we need to design for Brise soleil or External blinds now. Or can we leave it till after completion.

 

 

Yes. It will almost certainly impact the design.

 

eg how will you support it.

 

"By drilling holes in my nice new house after the fact in places where I had not planned to do so" is the wrong answer :ph34r:.

Edited by Ferdinand
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2 hours ago, jack said:

Being completely honest, I think that's a worryingly optimistic budget for a house like this unless you're doing an awful lot of the work yourself.

 

 

It is indeed.  However, we are doing as much as we can ourselves (hence the ICF as we can do that ourselves) and we do have just over £50k stashed away as our contingency.  The £200k is our build money, all prof fees etc are not included in that.  Solar panels will be prepared (as in the roof will be ready to accept them with cabling in place) but we won’t we able to afford them.  Luckily, I don’t have expensive taste in kitchens or bathrooms - they are just rooms!

 

We have built before so understand how big our mountain is *falls over in a dead faint* 

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You can avoid expensive taste in bathrooms problems by buying well, most of the time.

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41 minutes ago, Ferdinand said:

You can avoid expensive taste in bathrooms problems by buying well, most of the time.

 

Though it remains to be seen whether I manage this with my own bathroom refurb, as it has to be stylish for what is a nice house.

 

F

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