Anyone used online 3D printing services

[Temp]

My Anet A8 came with a hot bed and has ABS settings in the menu. I use the hotbed set to around 60C for PLA. Not sure what temperature ABS needs but it might take a long time for my hot bed to get up there. Mine runs on 12V and I think some people upgrade to a 24V system to improve the warm up time.  

 

My success rate with PLA is up to about 80-90%. eg most of the time I get usable prints but almost all have some minor defects. I'm certainly still ironing out the bugs. The two most annoying problems I have are:

 

Warping. This can cause two problems. 1) The edges of flat objects lift off the bed so the base of the object isn't flat. worse case the head hits the print and the whole print comes unstuck. This can usually be fixed by adding a brim or raft around the object  (Cura will do it automatically) so the lifting occurs away from the object. 2) Warping in mid air. Sometimes when printing something with an overhang the perimeter curls up. For example if printing a sphere after say 5-10 layers the unsupported edges curl up above the nozzle instead of staying flat. I need to do some more investigating to fix this. Could be I'm using too high a hot end temperature. Seems worse with PLA+ than PLA. The iron filled PLA was also a lot worse then the Bronze filled for some reason. I ended up wasting most of the iron sample trying to solve the problem.

 

Circles on the first layer not sticking. When drawing the first layer the outlines of holes and other curves tend to pull off the bed as if the filament is shrinking. Slowing the printer right down to a crawl helps but I think I also have an issue with retraction - the extruder retracts the filament when moving from one circle to the next. I noticed that the problem occurs most when starting the next circle. I think the filament might be retracting too far so that when starting the next circle it takes awhile to get the flow going again. Sometimes the miss printed filament gets in the way and I have to abort the print. Usually if it gets past the first layer the rest is OK.

 

Be prepared for long print times. Cura will estimate it for you but tends to under estimate print time by about 20%-30% If it says 2 hours I allow 3 hours including set up time or having to restart due to first layer issues. 

 

 

 

[Temp]

Sorry about the picture quality but my phone isn't great. Here is a photo of my A8 after the upgrade to a metal frame, together with some parts printed on it since upgrading. Everything in orange on the printer was printed on the stock printer before tearing it down to upgrade. Took a lot of print time! The impossible dovetail was printed on the stock printer with a 0.3mm clearance between the two parts. It slides apart a bit too easily so perhaps I could have allowed less, say 0.2mm? The large part in the middle took 3.5 hours to print at 0.3mm layer height. It's part of a spool holder I'm making.

 

 

Here is a gear and a part with a thread. The tooth pitch on the gear is only about 2mm. It mates nicely with it's partner but I've not tried running them together at speed or testing for wear. Would be OK for a hand cranked toy but I think it would needed to have a much coarser pitch to have any life in a motorised device. The threaded part has an M8 thread. Wasn't very clean when printed but I managed to screw an M8 metal nut onto it easily by hand. It will hold up for what I wanted it for but it's not going to be as strong as an injection moulded nylon bolt would be. It was printed with the part vertical so the threads are made of lots of incomplete circles that overhang and relies on layer adhesion for strength. Again larger thread diameters would probably work a lot better. Fusion 360 has tools that make gears and threads really simple.

 

[Temp]

Here is the rest of the spool holder mentioned. These two parts took about 30mins in total to draw up in total using Fusion 360. They are 100-120mm in diameter. The left hand one took 2 hours to print. The right hand will probably take about 2.5 hours. The axle will be some 8mm threaded rod and I plan on fitting an M8 Nut into the hexagonal recess on the right.

 

I'm finding fusion 360 and Cura incredible given both are free for home users. Fusion 360 has impressive tools that make some things really easy. I'm thinking of trying something complicated like a glider wing with elliptical dihedral, elliptical sweep and wash out (eg twist). The lofting tools should make it all reasonably straightforward. Others have used vase mode to 3D print similar small chuck gliders.

 

Edited May 6, 2019 by Temp

[Jeremy Harris]

Impressive looking quality, and I really like the idea of using the machine to make another version of itself, getting a bit close to a Von Neumann machine, perhaps!

 

I'm still undecided on the machine to buy, as soon as I think I've made up my mind I see another review that makes me think again.  Trying to sift through the mass of information available and decide on how reliable and trustworthy it may be is pretty tough.  It is even harder when it seems that a fair number of the YouTube videos out there may be really just product adverts, or a bit misleading because the knowledge and experience level of the people making them is very variable.

 

Isn't Fusion 360 solely cloud-based now?  I haven't looked at it closely, because I tend to keep all CAD-related stuff on a stand alone, non-internet connected machine, only because the machine I use for this is built using an industrial PC motherboard, that has things like legacy ports (serial, LPT, etc) but no Ethernet or WiFi.

[Onoff]

8 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

the idea of using the machine to make another version of itself

 

Slippery slope...Skynet etc

 

 

[Temp]

The default for fusion 360 is save to the cloud but it's only a few extra clicks to export to your hard drive as well and I do both. Most CAD programs have tools for collaborative projects and document management - which I don't need - but I can imagine they only work with the cloud.

[Temp]

Reasonable video here on different materials. PETG might be easier than ABS but I don't know much about it..

 

 

[Temp]

Last picture for the day.. Comparison of different filaments. Left to right..

 

Black PLA+ (As printed but I see it has some white fluff on it or something)

Bronze coloured PLA (no actual bronze in it. As printed)

Bronze filled PLA (80% real bronze, sanded and "polished")

Iron filled PLA (80% real iron, sanded and "polished")

 

Polished in quotes because it's not really hard enough to take polish. I tried T-Cut and Brasso.

 

All were printed with 0.3 layer height and are about 45mm across.

 

I'd like to try copper or brass filled PLA and may have found a source for cheap samples to play with.

 

[Jeremy Harris]

I've been trying to determine the mechanical properties of available printing filament plastics and found this video which seems to present some sound data from what looks to have been a reasonable robust experimental technique:

 

 

The carbon fibre filled PETG looks pretty impressive in terms of stiffness, plus it isn't that expensive, from a quick look at UK suppliers.  Being twice as stiff as ABS, plus being reasonably weather and UV resistant, makes the CF filled PETG look as if it may well be a good option.  From what I've read PETG is also easier to print than ABS.

[Ferdinand]

Not entirely sure that this is the right thread, however ... I need a custom part for my shower, and it strikes me as probably a 3D printable thing.

 

I have repurposed the former hinged bath shower screen as the end screen of my walk in shower, as it is under the stairs. A side benefit was to be that the narrow 450mm entrance gap would you be opened a little wider for horizontally more extensive people, or putting a shower seat inside more comfortably etc.

 

Due to a need to reposition the shower closer to the stairs, there is now such a minimal gap that I need to fix the screen in place, rather than let it move. So I need a part with a 42 degree upper surface and a slot to fit over the top of the 6mm hinged screen, which I can then glue or silicone in place.

 

Pics and a diagram are below. Any comments on the material needed, the design, or offers if anyone actually has a 3D printer would be most welcome. happy to either pay or donate to BH.

 

Cheers 

 

Ferdinand

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 2, 2019 by Ferdinand

[Temp]

I'm happy to have a go for a donation to BH.

 

Currently I've only got Orange and Black PLA but have an idea... Does it need to be 150mm long? If it could be say 100mm long I think I could make one from a 10m sample of white PETG which would be stronger and possibly longer life.

 

As drawn corners/edges would be quite sharp. I can easily add small bevel?

 

Likewise could add fixing hole if you wanted to screw it to the ceiling.

 

Just off to pick up my kids.

 

 

[Ferdinand]

27 minutes ago, Temp said:

I'm happy to have a go for a donation to BH.

 

Currently I've only got Orange and Black PLA but have an idea... Does it need to be 150mm long? If it could be say 100mm long I think I could make one from a 10m sample of white PETG which would be stronger and possibly longer life.

 

As drawn corners/edges would be quite sharp. I can easily add small bevel?

 

Likewise could add fixing hole if you wanted to screw it to the ceiling.

 

Just off to pick up my kids.

 

 

 

Thanks.

 

Let me think until tomorrow ... going straight into plasterboard on angled surface, so a screw hole or two may be a good idea.

 

Cheers

 

Ferdinand 

 

[Carrerahill]

2 hours ago, Ferdinand said:

Not entirely sure that this is the right thread, however ... I need a custom part for my shower, and it strikes me as probably a 3D printable thing.

 

I have repurposed the former hinged bath shower screen as the end screen of my walk in shower, as it is under the stairs. A side benefit was to be that the narrow 450mm entrance gap would you be opened a little wider for horizontally more extensive people, or putting a shower seat inside more comfortably etc.

 

Due to a need to reposition the shower closer to the stairs, there is now such a minimal gap that I need to fix the screen in place, rather than let it move. So I need a part with a 42 degree upper surface and a slot to fit over the top of the 6mm hinged screen, which I can then glue or silicone in place.

 

Pics and a diagram are below. Any comments on the material needed, the design, or offers if anyone actually has a 3D printer would be most welcome. happy to either pay or donate to BH.

 

Cheers 

 

Ferdinand

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'd mill that in aluminium. Not difficult, a small independent machine shop or a hobbiest with a mill would do that for a few beer tokens and the price of the ali. It would look good anodised but painted would work. 

[Temp]

Just had a quick 15min play around with Fusion 360 over a cup of tea. At 150mm long and 25% infill Cura says it needs about 12m of filament which isn't much but more than a 10m sample.  Holes might be better going up from underneath. Anyway have a think. I'm painting the church hall next door most of tomorrow. 

 

[dpmiller]

what about a couple of clamp-on hinges?

[Ferdinand]

Ok. Reflections.

 

@dpmiller - I quite like that idea, but I would like to glue as well as screw (it is into plasterboard). There might be issues screwing through both sides if a clamp hinge for the wall attachment?

 

Are there any pros or cons when attaching solid material to the shower screen that might cause it to shatter - eg if the angle turns out to be 41.5 degrees not 42 degrees? I have allowed .5mm over the 6mm thckness of the glass to give a slight "movement buffer" which will be filled with clear silicone used to bed the screen on the slot. Plus the screws will not need to be that tight.

 

I imagine ally as a less forgiving material in this situation.

 

(And TBH, having a 3d printed item is more fun.)

 

@Temp

The screws need to be where you have put them, as it will need to be on the screen first, and screws below will be left going at 45 degrees into the plasterboard due to the screen itself.

 

To my eye the mechanical weak point is the close proximity of the slot for the screen to the screw hole, even though there is continuous material covering the gap for 90% or so of the length. If your judgement is that that will be strong enough, can we go with the design we have with the 150mm length reduced sufficiently to have it done with a single 10m pack.

 

Do I get to choose a colour? ? White or cream ideally. Or  "Jasmine" to match the grout ?.

 

Also - shoutout to @ElliotS for kindly making a similar offer.

 

Cheers

 

Ferdinand

Edited June 15, 2019 by Ferdinand

[SteamyTea]

On 05/05/2019 at 10:28, JSHarris said:

Be interesting to see how the printer copes with ABS

We used to put our sheets of plastic in a large, low temperature oven before vac forming.  This drove off any moisture and made the process easy.

The most sensitive plastic was polycarbonate, that took days in the oven.

I can't remember what ABS was like as we usually injection moulded that, but the pellets still got dried beforehand.

[Temp]

11 hours ago, Ferdinand said:

Do I get to choose a colour? ? White or cream ideally. Or  "Jasmine" to match the grout ?.

 

White PTEG would be my recommendation as pretty sure I can get a 10m sample easily. There are few other colours are available but most are vivid colours you wouldn't want in a bathroom like lime green, translucent blue or black.  Have a look on Amazon.

 

I can print PETG or PLA.

 

PLA is easiest to print and there are probably more colours but it's claimed to be biodegradable so not sure how long it lasts.

PETG is a bit more fussy about the printer settings but should be stronger than PLA. Some black I printed recently came out OK.

 

 

 

Edited June 15, 2019 by Temp

[Temp]

11 hours ago, Ferdinand said:

Are there any pros or cons when attaching solid material to the shower screen that might cause it to shatter - eg if the angle turns out to be 41.5 degrees not 42 degrees? I have allowed .5mm over the 6mm thckness of the glass to give a slight "movement buffer" which will be filled with clear silicone used to bed the screen on the slot. Plus the screws will not need to be that tight.

 

I imagine ally as a less forgiving material in this situation.

 

Both PLA and PETG are pretty rigid but I think 0.5mm should be plenty of wiggle room.

 

My shower has a chrome plated stay to the top of the glass. There is a allen key bolt that clamps the glass. Bolt has some sort of nylon pad on the end.

 

 

[Onoff]

@Temp, possibly commission for you. My lad's gaming headphones, need the two piece clamp that goes either side, note they're handed. so 4 pieces in all, whatever material is strongest. Think the info to print is here:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2974439

 

PM me with a price if you fancy giving it a go.

 

Cheers

[Temp]

57 minutes ago, Onoff said:

@Temp, possibly commission for you. My lad's gaming headphones, need the two piece clamp that goes either side, note they're handed. so 4 pieces in all, whatever material is strongest. Think the info to print is here:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2974439

 

PM me with a price if you fancy giving it a go.

 

Cheers

 

Will have a look and get back to you.

[Carrerahill]

On 14/06/2019 at 16:35, Temp said:

Just had a quick 15min play around with Fusion 360 over a cup of tea. At 150mm long and 25% infill Cura says it needs about 12m of filament which isn't much but more than a 10m sample.  Holes might be better going up from underneath. Anyway have a think. I'm painting the church hall next door most of tomorrow. 

 

I like it!

[Ferdinand]

These arrived this morning from @Temp.

 

 

The one one of the left has a couple of springs built in to help it grip on the shower screen. An extra 0.5mm seems about right to give a little play and space for glue in the slot.

 

The springs work really well to hold it whilst glue and screw happens. In the next pic the tape is to give the iPad an edge for focus.

 

 

But I think I am 2-3 mm out on the screen to slope dimension for the screen to be exactly right, so I will re-measure carefully before pushing the button on the stronger version made with the other filament. That points up the value of a prototype.

 

 

As it happens, my bathroom fitter brought his invoice 2 hours after the parcel arrived; he was impressed.

 

Ferdinand

 

Edited June 18, 2019 by Ferdinand

[Onoff]

Big thanks to @Temp. He's hopefully going to do my headphone repair bits.

[Onoff]

Big thanks to @Temp. 3D printed parts arrived today. Will post some pics when less knackered, (these 16 hour days kill me!)

 

Bit of an experiment material wise as in is PLA+ strong enough / will it take the original part screws without delaminating.

 

Thanks again.

 

  

Edited June 20, 2019 by Onoff