Sticking wood to concrete?

[Alexphd1]

Any recommendations for adhesive/expanding foam for sticking studwork starter rail to slab? I can't use nails for UFH pipes. 

[Mr Punter]

Gripfil but you will need to let it cure before you you put studs in.

[scottishjohn]

why not make stud wall on the floor to start with 

make it  short in height  - use top packers 

-then apply glue to bottom rail when you raise it up and fix top rail with spacers if needed to make it tight .

lot easier to make stud wall on its back on floor 

 

[Gone West]

I used Titebond Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. It's expensive but you don't have to worry about damp or cold.

[craig]

CT1

[Russell griffiths]

Grip fill the one in the green tube

apply to both surfaces and squidgy about as you put plate down to tear up any skin that has formed on it, as it skins over very fast

 

[mvincentd]

I used ct1

[Nickfromwales]

4 hours ago, PeterStarck said:

I used Titebond Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. It's expensive but you don't have to worry about damp or cold.

That's the winner folks.

PU expands and fills the voids, just be sure to have a wet rag to hand to wet the timber and the floor ( as its moisture cure ). Much better than gripfill as that doesn't 'squish' out at all. If you grip fill a timber down and whack it off the next day, you'll see the snake like trail where you applied it with very little area covered.

After bonding down and finishing the stud wall framework, get some 75mm Obo ( masonry ) nails and whack them through the 44mm timber until 20mm is left proud for additional mechanical fix ( if the wall is very long ).

[scottishjohn]

I would not be happy with no mechanical fixing at lower edge if this stud wall has a door  frame as part of it ,

just asking for long term problems .when people bang doors

 you should use a thermal gun and find out where the UFH p[ipes are ?  then fix lower rail  so you miss them .

[Nickfromwales]

9 hours ago, scottishjohn said:

I would not be happy with no mechanical fixing at lower edge if this stud wall has a door  frame as part of it ,

just asking for long term problems .when people bang doors

 you should use a thermal gun and find out where the UFH p[ipes are ?  then fix lower rail  so you miss them .

Disagree in part.

With the PU, applied religiously as I describe and as @PeterStarck has implemented, and then fortified with the measured 'knocking in' of the masonry fixings, there will be zero issue with doors / frames / movement. That's not speculation, that's from being in these TF houses in varying stages of completion, through to visiting occupiers 6-12 months after they have moved into completed builds. There will be more movement in the mid section of the timber stud wall than the junction between floor and sole plate, so panic yea not.